THEY ARE ALL WRONG - The Truth on Cleaning ~ Rex Reviews
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 07. 2022
- Rex fully exposes dogmatic myopic internet paradigms in the Alfa-Deuce community.
Lubricants shown here:
Otis Technology ~ No discount code, available at most gun stores
Ballistol ~ No discount code, available at most gun stores
Vulture Liquid Freakiness Extreme Oil, No code, available at Vulture Equipment Works
Breakthrough Clean Technologies Military Grade Solvent and Battle Born HP Pro Lubricant and Protectant Liquid, No Code, available at MidwayUSA
Hoppe’s No. 9 ~ No discount code, available at most gun stores
Accuracy Oil, Carbon Destroyer, Copper/Lead Destroyer, Crystal Clear, Spartan Accuracy Grease STARTER KIT~ Use code “REX10” for 10% OFF, at modernspartansystems.com/rex10/
Outers Gun Oil ~ No discount code, available at most gun stores
Break-Free CLP (Bore Cleaning Solvent, Lubricant, Rust Preventative) ~ No discount code, available at most gun stores
High temperature axle grease ~ No discount code, available at most auto parts stores
WD40 ~ No discount code, available at most hardware stores - Zábava
Where to find: Accuracy Oil, Carbon Destroyer, Copper/Lead Destroyer, Crystal Clear, Spartan Accuracy Grease STARTER KIT~ Use code “REX10” for 10% OFF, are available at modernspartansystems.com/rex10/
Otis Technology, Ballistol, Vulture Liquid Freakiness Extreme Oil, Breakthrough Clean Technologies Military Grade Solvent and Battle Born HP Pro Lubricant and Protectant Liquid, No Code, available at MidwayUSA, Hoppe’s No. 9, Outers Gun Oil, Break-Free CLP (Bore Cleaning Solvent, Lubricant, Rust Preventative), High temperature axle grease, and WD40 are usually available at most sporting goods or hardware stores
I have a Ruger No1 international. It is my deer rifle. I use it for two weeks a year. It is the most accurate rifle I own. But because it is out in all kinds of weather for over 12 hours a day for those two weeks and left in my vehicle uncleaned at night to keep the scope cold. At the end of the season I clean it vigorously then oil it heavily. Because it will sit in the vault untouched for 49 weeks. When I get it out each year and zero it in. I immediately fire a round into the ground. Because that first clean bore shot WILL BE OFF BY THREE TO FOUR INCHES.
I then let the barrel go completely cold. Once cold I will fire three shots into a single hole not much lager than the caliber. I then let it cool and place it in a hard case. I soak the inside foam of the hardcase in silicone every year. This is done after the deer season. When I clean the rifle and put it back in the vault. I close the case and put it away. It has been this way for decades.
Now I have a question. When I bought the rifle I bought a box of ammo for it. That ammo is all I have ever used in it. Because it was so dead accurate.
What is your view of my thoughts that the first cartridge put through a quality barrel is the cartridge it will like.
I have several hunting rifles that this has played out with. I have considered twist rate and bullet weight as the only thing I try to match ahead of time.
I do two things:
1) I buy ammo in large quantity with the same lot number. When I purchase a rifle.
2) I shoot a minimum of 20 rounds of that lot number in the first range trip. I let the barrel get cold between rounds. But do NOT clean or swob between rounds.
I PERSONALLY BELIEVE THE AMMO TUNES THE RAW BARREL TO ITSELF.
HOW NUTS AM I?????
Was the boom a transformer blowing up ?
Sheep in yard, lol , I would rather have that than the feeder steer neighbor chained to tree in front yard. Always wondered how much mess that made, sheep or gozts make less mess 😉
Loved this video, thanks for further deprogramming us from myopic paradigms. Once, a well-known guntuber got me hooked on red lithium grease, which quickly gummed up things in a variety of systems in my -20F environment at the time: big learning lesson about CONTEXT. Thank you for this helpful video.
@@stompinmcallister1312 A deceptacon hit one of my perimeter devices…
“Claymore goes off outside” Rex Chuckles…, 🤣
Rex I too have been exposed to some of the nastiest chemicals and solvents over the years. I too was diagnosed with cancer, mine coming in the form of ALL leukemia at age 39. Tough stuff man. It’s definitely changed the way I go about doing certain things.
Totally wiped me out uncle sam worked now probably will have to surrender cuz of disabilty can do.
My mom passed from Luekemia and I tell you, I feel bad for you, I lost my uncles to pancreatic cancer and my father to liver cancer, and my brother has a aggressive form or Sarcoma, he’s 49 and I am hoping he makes it to 50 or 51. It’s rough. And yes all Military personal.
When I moved to the coast, I did not realize how much salt was in the air. Learned the hard way. Gotta keep all your tools inside and not in garage. Oil regularly.
I live on the Fl coast, and have for the last 14 years.
Keep my firearms in my house, and no need for re-oiling to protect it from rust inside the home, unless you have a swamp cooler for your ac.
And the best thing for storage is grease, as it stays on the surfaces and doesn't run off and it takes a very long time to dry out.
Check out corrosionx clp, by far the best preservation product for those of us near the water.
Likewise. I found out the hard way that a well oiled revolver that's stored in an area without dessicant is pretty much certain to corrode as a result of condensation.
I just gave up and replaced blued with stainless.... What he says about condensation is true but goes in one ear and out the other for most guys who haven't been there.
Blued with melonite treatment is nice corrosion resistance.
"Do you season your boar?" usually with some salt and fresh ground pepper
Just don’t be a pig with the spices.
Usually before cooking
Season it with Dr pepper
Bet that tastes amazing!
@@slinkyrobb Dr. Pepper is delicious
I clean my guns whenever I'm bored... So quite often lol
I listen with headphones. I got up and looked outside when I heard the shot.
Ed’s red has never let me down and ALL my guns look beautiful and cycle 100% in the dead of winter in Michigan. And the most important thing they shoot very accurately
Things I would like to see:
Best cold weather lube.
Best hot weather lube.
Best copper solvent.
Best lead remover.
Best oil for long term storage.
10w30 for all lube. Eds red for cleaning. 1:3 kerosene, 1:3 ATF, 1:3 mineral spirits. I haven't bought solvent or lube in 15 years. of course, I'm of the opinion that companies are out to scalp people for solvent and oil. Not being dogmatic but this has worked for me in 105+ fahrenheit and -35 fahrenheit.
Because doing your own homework and experimentation is so 1970s, hey?
CLP is all around lovely, keeps it simple.
@@duxdawg
I've been reloading since the seventies. Good advice is always welcome.
3in1 Oil!!!❤
I’ve been using Lucas Red and Tacky mixed with 5w20 synthetic motor oil to reduce it’s viscosity on my guns for years and only use oil where I only want a thin film for protection.
This mix will stay on slide rails, bolts, and recoil springs where oil won’t. I live in the south where dust isn’t a problem but lint on my EDC is and this solution has worked for me.
I just use vegetable cooking oil . I put a drop in a bowl, tap the oil with a finger, and rub the part of the gun that needs lube. Easy. Simple. Cheap. Effective. Good residual. Thicker than most sprays. But I put a minimum sheen. Couldn't be easier.
Same thing, red and tacky blended with oil. Works fantastic.
60% heavy synthetic motor oil, 40% chainsaw bar oil is my normal mixture. I use 100% bar oil on my pistol rails.
My grandfather always told me that more guns are worn out from the cleaning rod than bullets, especially .22 rimfire…I grew up using Hoppes #9, 30W motor oil for lube (sparingly), today I use several G96 products and Bore Snakes when/if I need to clean my guns. They all seem GTG and I don’t overdo it.
Best comment I’ve seen so far , they don’t need cleaning as often as everyone thinks .
If you use the gun often and your very familiar with how it shoots things such as accuracy , failures to feed or eject are all indicators it’s time for a cleaning that’s the rule I use .
I overcleaned a 700 barrel and found out the hard way while taking a high angle, LR class out west...
I shoot at least once a month with several guns and several hundred rounds. I don't clean any of it unless I'm taking it out of the rotation and putting it away for awhile. I'm in western WA state and yes, it rains a lot but inside the house is 40-55% humidity. I don't shoot in the rain getting my gun wet. None of my guns have any rust. Ultrasonic, Hoppe's, CLP, and synthetic engine oil.
Great comment ! Your Grandfather passed on to you very valuable information .
Rifle went from 3 moa back to .75 with a good cleaning. This was several hundred rounds of copper fouling later.
I always learn something from your videos, Rex, even when I go back and re-watch the old ones. Thank you.
Me too!
When Bill Wilson from Wilson Combat said , that chunks of junk fall off his 1911 before he gets around to cleaning his gun I felt better about my own cleaning regime 🤣🤣🤣
A 1911 can be cleaned in a mud puddle and it’s fine. Built that way. Unless you get up into the hand fit match grade the specs on 1911 are pretty easygoing.
I cut full synthetic mobile one motor oil with full synthetic mobile one grease untill its the consistency of molasses. It stays put in the heat, but doesnt impede function in the cold. Its my favorite on EDC guns especially, since after months of carry the gun will still be lubricated. Ive tried all sorts of other oils, and they all quickly pool to one side and evap off.
Same here. Got the recipe watching SOTAR videos. I run a patch of Rem oil down the barrel if I think it's going to sit for awhile and a dry patch before I use it.
I'm gonna try this. You ever use eds red homemade solvent? 1/3 kerosene, 1/3 ATF, 1/3 mineral spirits. It's great for carbon removal and doesn't touch copper.
@@Vecto_Vindictus I never used it but it sounds good. I know ATF is a high detergent and does soften carbon. I have a feeling Marvel Mystery Oil is close to the same thing.
@@Vecto_Vindictus I have not. But straight kerosene is what the big 4 motorcycle makers recomend as the cleaner for use on chain drives. So it makes sense it would work
I only clean my barrels if I see a drop off in accuracy, I only clean my actions if I start to have malfunctions, as a test I once ran an ar15 dry no lube, only shot steel case ammo and never had a malfunction in over 1000 rounds, I finally cleaned it just because it was so filthy. Lube is way over used and is simply something for dirt and carbon to stick to.
I have a hard time disagreeing with this. A drop or two on the bolt might help, but beyond that it's kinda pointless as most of it gets flung out or gummed up.
@@Vecto_Vindictus I'm not sure where this myth that your ar needs to be run dripping with oil came from? I have 4 in 3 different calibers, and I run them all with minimal lube and have no reliability issues. As far as barrel cleaning, your doing more damage to your barrel cleaning it constantly than firing bullets down it, a little copper fouling actually fills in the imperfections in the barrel and helps accuracy to a point, unless your groups open up, leave it alone.
The most worthwhile presentation on cleaning and lubrication chemicals I've ever seen. Thanks, Rex.
6:05.....I told you kids to stay out of Dad's Tannerite!!!
I am a retired chemical engineer that did research and production of lubricants for Shell and ARCO. The safest lubricants to be exposed to is baby oil and Vaseline. These are actually made out of crude oil. They are hydroprocessed at extreme conditions to remove 99.99% of the aromatics molecules. They are classified as food grade mineral oil. They are so inert they won't oxidize at typical environmental conditions.
These oils actually have very good shear resistance. The only problem with baby oil is the freeze point is 14° F. Mobil 1 also makes a very good gun oil because it's made of PAO and has a lower freeze point. A good thing about engine oils is they can contain ZDDP. These have extreme shear protection properties and reduce barrel wear. These have to be cleaned out after shooting the gun because they break down into free phosphorus and sulfur compounds that can cause corrosion if they get wet.
Aromatics are like benzene and are the carcinogenic component that is totally removed from these products.
All food oils have olefins and will cross link and eventually turn to resin sticky products. They can also be wet so they make very bad lubricants.
All I use is baby oil and Walmart brake cleaner on my guns. Never had any problem.
Thought I knew how to clean a rifle after several years in the US Army…
Later in life I damaged an 8 mm Yugo Mauser barrel firing corrosive ammo cleaning with what I had done previously.
Not until I joined a Black Powder rifle league did I truly learn how to protect a rifle from corrosive powder/ammo.
Well, corrosive ammo is kind of a special case...
For me. It's WD-40, 3-in-one Oil, Mineral Spirits, Motor Oil & High Temp Bearing Grease. I live on the coast. I own a lot of blades. I don't have rust on my weapons. I use Otis Lead Wipes after I shoot. That's what I do. Thanks for the share!!
I have learned so much from you Rex. Been a fan over 10 years! We appreciate you.
I would like to see more on the oil bath. A series on what stuff for what application would be nice too.
Yes please!
Enjoyed the video, thanks, Rex.
Enjoyed the older footage at the end also!
Awesome content as always
Rex hears a report and says. " it's ok" classic Rex man. Love it!!!!!!
Fantastic! There is actual hope that in future possible skirmishes it will not be like movies where 100 (+-) shots never hit the mark. You rock Rex! Blessings!
I agree I use lots of different lubes depending on weapon type and weather conditions. Dry graphite, gun oils, corrosive bore cleaner, hoppes 9, lubriplate, etc. Sometimes I mix dextron type 2 ATF and K1 because it is compatible with corrosive bore cleaner.
Motorkote is a great lube for semi autos
Lol, I jumped and looked around all the way over here when I heard that BOOM!
The only "Rex" on youtube I can stand to watch for more than 5 seconds and can listen to for hours, man I used to clean my stuff with your music on repeat in the background, I stopped using Hoppes/cleaning the copper out I just wasnt shooting enough that I felt it was necessary to clean the copper out. Just the smell of Hoppes #9 made me want to clean now I just use Safariland CLP and dont really clean that often
I've loved your show over the years from the very beginning with sniper 101. Thank you so much
As a cold weather hunter, g96 is my go to in the winter, rem oil in the summer. However, I’m not big on cleaning firearms if they don’t need to be cleaned. The biggest risk where I am is outside rust. Tent camping will destroy firearms in days if you are not vigilant. I try to go 2-3k rounds in my pistols alone just to see when the fail point is without cleaning. As a young boy I spent one night in a tent and my rifle was absolutely covered in rust by the time I woke up in the morning. Situation/conditions absolutely matter.
I’m an old guy, I will always go to default on weapons cleaning, every time I fire the weapon I clean it, that day. Always keep it clean lubracated and dry if possible. Clean it often, use grease in very hot environments, learned from Russian AK maitainence. Arctic oil for very cold environments. For stateside and regular CLP, use to use LSA.
Facts as always! Thanks for sharing!
I appreciate the content, keep up the good work.
Thanks Rex!
If this was said, I apologize for being redundant. This is only intended to be additive, not to take away from anything that was said.
The decision on which lubricant to use can also depend on the part of the firearm that is being lubricated. The product used to lubricate the rails of a pistol may be different than what's used to lubricate the internals.
Thank you Red, lots of good info. I learned a lot from you on cleaning from the Sniper 101 series years back. . I broke in a rifle per your instructions also. I like using Miltec with minimum grease where needed.
Good video, Rex! You nailed it, since there are so many variables as to how to or when to clean gun. It is impossible to have just one answer. Also, the toxic cleaning solvents and lubricants must be be used with lots of understanding and care. Must read instructions and SDS.
Balistol is a great "salad dressing" for firearm cleaning and lubing. Not the best or worst at anything, but safe and effective. Didn't see that 5 quart container of Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil on your shelf.
I like it but the smell is funky. Smells like stale licorice.
Made from canola oil right?
@@richb.4374 Yummy
Eirk cortina put it well. "I can get my rifle barrel the same cleanliness but can never get it the same dirtyness".
40 years of CLP and RBC (Hoppes) has worked well for me. Works well for the Army too. I've tried a lot of snake oil over the years, but I've always gone back to CLP. Just have to re-lube every six months or so, as it does evaporate.
I clean the chamber and moving parts with CLP every range trip, unless I'm planning another range trip within a month.
I like clp but it stinks my wife gives me a hard time every time I use it because it stinks Sometime I just use synthetic motor oil it works just fine
Speaking of CLP I had a adjustable wrench a little crescent wrench a 6-in rusted shut would not move nothing 3 days in a row I soaked it on my bench with a spray can of CLP the third day when I came home from work I turned the screw to adjust it it was free it loosened up and was working so I soaked it again and then cleaned it up a couple of days later cop works it will get to the bottom of whatever's in your way
@@amadoleon8981 man I use automotive oil all the time it's got detergent in it he works in all temperature extremes for the most part it's available everywhere one quart will last you your lifetime they don't underestimate engine oil in a smudge of wheel bearing Grease for your bolt carrier group to slide back and forth on in your rifle
After using something like Iosso bore paste or JB Bore, I will remove it with CLP or a very heavyweight oil. You want something that's a detergent and a penetrant to clean that remnant gunk up. In my opinion nothing works as well. I take my bore back to bare stainless every 100-200 rounds, because I shoot a lot in competition & for consistency I keep the bore clean.
Grew up with black powder, was shocked with how infrequent modern propellants require cleanup.
My experience also. However, I clean after every shoot. Just not every 4 shots like I did with my Hawken.
I grew up in Georgia - now live in Colorado 30 years - wildly different clean/lube schedules
Same story
There were guns well before all the fancy cleaning tools and engineered sprays. My pops (rip) just used “solvent” and oil. He would say you can pull your dipstick and drop in some earl of crankcase if that’s what you have on hand.
Thank you Sir !, that really needed to be said. 🇺🇸
Nailed it dude. There is no end all be all for anything. Good presentation as to , what are you using the weapon for & where are you.? hot humid, cold as hell & dry. Desert, rainforest. Brilliant my man.
This is why I love Rex. Call it like you see it. Experience in the end shines thru the bullshit. I've spent alot of time behind a long gun. When I found his Sniper 101 series... I knew Rex was one of the few people on the interwebs that actually knew what he was talking about. Keep up the great work!
i agree
Well after my litle ramble as im watching more of the video you hit the nail on the head! experimentation is king! Now luckily for me i came after my grandfather and uncles ,and know what they used while hunting here in N.J. So i had a leg up although i have tried many different things. Now i have quite a few toys and batteries so i do keep a pad of paper in my safe that i keep notes on for cleanings. I have a few older guns that i dont always shoot but they get cleaned a minimum of twice per year even if im not shooting it. Its worked well enough but always up for new info and experience's from others! Never too old to learn brother! Yet another great video! ;>)
As a marine mechanic ( boats) , two different metals, and salt water makes a battery, softer metal erodes quickly
I was a mechanic on the Oshkosh R11 in the Air Force, spent 4 years smelling of JP8. Have had a few lumps and scares, I get what you are saying on the chemical hygiene.
For the beginners great video, I will tell them have them look up your older videos sniper 101 part 42 and 44.thanks
Balistoll and LPS 1 or 2 have been my go to for my environment.
Understood about chemicals and cancer. I'm a C survivor twice for many years. Wear rubber glovers where common sense to do so. Love your videos sir.
Thanks Rex. Your words count.
Context, context, context,. Thank you, keep them coming..
I use what I have learned works for me throughout the years of hunting and target shooting. Sometimes I might feel like experimenting with something new. Like you said......It all depends!!
I found that an ultrasonic sink like the $200 ish price level has really made my cleaning of cans slides and BGG's much easier. for my main lube collection I'm quite happy with the SLP 2000 line not toxic and simple plus they make real small containers and even wipes that fit in most grips and can be cut into a patch for an quick field clean. I'm in north Central idaho so 100 f to -30 f
Been to more armorer certifications than I can remember and all Ill say is you are correct. Keep it clean, dry, serviceable. As far as products, if it's made for firearms, use it. Just what you said, what works for you and where you operate. Always learning when I talk to people from other places and experience. Have bore snake, will travel.
Lol. You gotta show off your swimming pool holster setup some time. Too funny. Have a great day. Love your vids.
Only five minutes in so far and I'm digging!
Awesome video man
TREMENDOUS VIDEO. THANKS VERY MUCH !!!!!
Well, I can tell you as a former soldier, the weapon remains with you everywhere you go in the field. You snuggle that mistress tightly. I find what works best and share that with folks. I have seen a Bartlein barrel react differently than a Benchmark, and a Benchmark differently than a McGowan in terms of cleaning methods & cleaning liquids. I've even had two Bartleins react differently to the same cleaning solutions. F-Class\Benchrest bolt guns with no coatings like DLC or Cerakote, will be different in terms of lubrication requirements than a PRS or hunting rifle.
I use Hoppes #9 for smokeless bores, champers, revolvers, pistols and thorough deep cleaning.
Green mild mineral spirits for soaking parts, and Lukas break parts cleaner.
Black powder is handled with Ballistol/warm water solution.
All lubrication is mainly Weapon Shield.
Ezoxx is used for long term lubrication.
Weapon Shield Grease when needed.
I sometimes just use Hoppes 9 for cleaning and mineral oil.
6:00 something got into Rex's tripwire lol. Also watch project farms video on gun lube. I'd say 90% of gun oils and lubes are bs too. I'm glad you hit on the safety aspect too. I gave zero fs when I was a young man about chemicals. Being older now it is important to me. I want to stick around for the family a little while longer lol.
I knew someone would bring up project farms video. I have been using Clenzoil ever since I watched his video.
@@alvaroeloredo I always gota consult the project farm before I buy stuff lol.
Sure sure.. good to know the mechanics and variables.
Louisiana high humidity, I keep my rifle in a lined case and normally use hops, that doesn't mean that is what's best for my situation, but the case protects against moisture and some ammo you have to clean the bore after use because of acid in the powder. It's a milspec rifle and I check it before using and I don't even know if I am doing the right thing but have been lucky with it.
Been using Froglube in my ARs for a few years now. It works so well I dont even think about it.
Very informative thanks alot!
Thank you for telling these others
When I hunted foxes professionally, I use a Tiukka .17, but the wind and mist and light rain intereferred too much. So, I changed to a Anschutz .22 hornet and this worked for me. Accurate, deadly up to 200 yeards, NP. I used 40 gr Sierra soft point bullets, my own loads. But, I found one hole entry and no exit, which was great, my skins got most money. There was a problem, because of the soft bullet I had to clean the barrel after 20 bullets, no mater the climate, weather, or temperature. I used Sweets 7.62 cleaner, stunk, but i used it outside.
At 73, i guess i survived over 50 years of re-loading!
My favorite cleaning supplies ever go to sentury solutions. Smooth Kote, BP-2000, Hi-Slip, and Tuff Cloth are by far the best lubricant and maintenance products on earth. It’s a pain in the ass to get the barrel conditioned with smooth kote but once it’s on there you don’t have to worry for many rounds. It doesn’t pick up dust at all, repels even salt water, it’s just amazing. Now when it comes to solvents and such I’ve always just used hoppes, shooters choice copper solvent, alcohol, and a shit ton of brushes.
Dude, when I was a kid, I used to eat dirt paddies, and when I was in Vietnam, I was exposed to Agent Orange, and all the other infectious that were in country. I'm still pretty healthy. Your advise on the geographic use of products and "stuff" is right on the money. Everyone needs to self evaluate their own location and adjust accordingly. You ROCK for the people out there.
Mission dictates the gear. For most applications, the simple proven stuff works best. Testing and evaluation of your equipment in your context will ensure you understand how it performs pros/cons.
Thanks Rex. 🙏
Agreed,muzzle loaders are a pain in the ass.i was told by guys who have used them for years every 5 rounds a good cleaning is best especially the breach area.your opinion?
I have a .22 that has never been cleaned. It’s been zero-ed a few times, that’s about it.
I inherited a Mossberg 151m (a) semi auto .22lr that my great grandfather bought brand new. He shot it, my grandpa grew up shooting it, as did my dad, and then me. It had thousands on thousands of rounds through it and was NEVER cleaned. Grandpa just dripped in more oil when it quit working properly. Well a few years back it quit working all together. Id pull the bolt back and let go, and it would very very slowly creep forward, it was rather humorous. You wouldnt believe how much junk I got out of that little rifle when I did clean it.
I went to bore snakes and gunzilla years ago. when i was shooting highpower in the last century i liked hoppes benchrest for bore cleaning. used a bore guide and still ruined the crown on a douglas air gauge barrel.
Wipe off the black stuff (brake clean, WD-40), Snake that puppy, and a little synthetic motor oil here and there.
I'll never be a good enough long ranger to worry about cleaning perfection.
Thanks man you are appreciated
Almost turned into one of Nukes ghost video
Def wanna see more, Rex.. particularly, if it deviates from your 101 series (I’ve watched that series many times)
I clean when I need more or less with the Paul Harrell method. Probably shot over a hundred thousand rounds over the last decade. As long as it operates and seems to stay accurate I'm not too worried about it.
There's a lot of trendy bullshit.
I like soap, water, oil, copper solvents... Whatever I need for the particular application.
I need my rifle to shoot the same way every time, and not jam.
I will say though, I do order a bottle of the amsoil oil when I order for my truck lol. It seems to perform very well in the cold ass northern Midwest plains at midnight in winter. Shooting under the moon sub 40 out to a half mile is an amazing experience
I would love to see Rex and Paul make a video together
Glock in a swimming pool😂! I thought it was just me. Stuff always goes down when you are least prepared! Great vid!
Lol at the imagery of y'all!
Thank you 😊
Love Ballistol in nearly every situation, but it super shines in black power applications as well on all my shotguns and handguns.
If I'm in a tent in Alaska I can promise you at least one weapon is going to be in there LOL
I like it. I've seen guys say their AR is good for 5k rounds without cleaning. Mine is only good for about 1,200 rounds. That's when it starts having minor issues. Around 2k is where it really hangs up. Who's wrong? Doesn't matter, and probably neither of us. I know my gun, and that's what matters.
Know your kit, and know yourself. Apply that knowledge for your best results. Constantly improve. Great video.
I heard a metallurgical engineer say it drives him nuts when people talk about "Metal Pores" because metal doesn't have pores. It has peaks and valleys, but the there's a grain structure, but no pores.
Thanks Rex. Less than a penny and more than a dollar. Much appreciated 👍
The only cleaning i ever do to a gun is a pull through bore brush after use and once in a while a wipe down of moving parts and a bit of graphite.
Unless it gets wet I really don't clean mine excessively.
I rarely clean the barrels and never clean the trigger systems. Oil is a dirt magnet
I just use Hoppes gun oil. What we've used for 70 years, cheap, and readily available around me at big box stores, lgs's, wherever....
Rex with a Glock swimming in the ocean, making a commotion because he's so awesome! Thanks for your "What works for you." video.
I'd love it if you did a video going more in depth on the oil baths you were talking about.
Dude you are the coolest! I wanna learn the art of long range ballistics someday!!!
Ballistol, corrosive x, and Lucas gun grease. That's what I use 🤷🏼♂️ everything else sucks
What I've always been told, with many years of experience, if it slides, grease it, if it rotates oil it.
Hunt in northern WI we keep ‘em on the porch.
Where abouts in northern Wisconsin? I’m in Rusk County.
Being in Texas I really like a thin grease for most all my guns. But that's because my temperature around me is (60-105°F) throughout the year. 5-40w motor oil does well in cold climates and doesn't dry out as much as "gun oils" I've tried. It just checks out all the boxes for a great general purpose CLP. Lubricity, cold/hot weather, rust prevention, etc. Believe it or not NEW motor oil isn't toxic either, that's new of course used motor oil has all sorts of heavy metals suspended in it.
Great advice, appreciated a lot.
But I just can't get my head around living in a place where you need to have a firearm on you when you go swimming.
M16A2 was new when I went through BRM I couldn't miss with that rig! Loved it! Talk to the new guys coming out and say that and they look at me almost feeling sorry for me! Haha but I loved that rifle!
I do like Shooter's Lube. The solvent kicks ass! The lubricant penatrates and lubricates very well