I Ranked Every Climbing Chalk [Unsponsored Review]
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- čas přidán 11. 06. 2024
- We bought every climbing chalk known to climbers and ranked them all. Which climbing chalk has the best grip? Which climbing chalk is most affordable? Which climbing chalk smells the best? What is the best climbing chalk? All these questions will be answered.
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#climbing #bouldering #climbingstuff #chalk #tierlist #MagnusMitbo
Chalk List:
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Friction Labs (Gorilla Grip)
3:08 - Frank Endo
6:29 - Black Diamond (White Gold)
8:01 - Black Diamond (Black Gold)
9:42 - Black Diamond (Pure Gold)
12:41 - Rungne (Magdust)
16:30 - Crux Power
18:22 - Traction Chalk
21:14 - Mantel Chalk
22:11 - Anah Chalk
23:35 - Mammut Chalk
24:49 - Trango Gunpowder
25:40 - Primo Chalk
27:50 - Metolius Chalk
28:46 - Bison Chalk
30:55 - Magdust (Again)
31:22 - Best Overall Chalk
31:37 - Most Affordable Chalk - Sport
Rungne is Norway's biggest cartel. Good stuff coming from that place!
I'm just glad I was able to give Norway proper credit, you guys got cheated in Eurovision this year, should have been first place.
He called it rug knees
Magnus supporting the up and comers
@@ClimbingStuffI'm glad I'm not the only non-Norwegian who thinks this. Absolute travesty.
But how does Magnus feel about human trafficking?
We're stoked to see that you tried out our chalk in your video! We appreciate your honest feedback and understand that chalk preferences can vary among climbers. No hard feelings at all!
Just a quick note, the 100g bag you tried is actually meant to be a sample size, so slightly more expensive to cover the costs. Our main product is a giant 1lb bag priced at only $19.50, which works out to be a much more affordable $4.29/100g!
Thanks again for featuring our chalk in your video and considering our brand. We appreciate your support!
Awesome! Thanks for clarification, it’s great to see manufacturers interacting with users
Lol I thought you were manlet bouldering
@@imnotjoe 🤣
Did you test them on different days: otherwise the later ones are disadvantaged
@@craigbritton1089 they tested on the same day but alternated who was doing it
We appreciate you testing out our Primo Chalk and glad you enjoyed the smell! Our proprietary formula includes organic Eucalyptus, Cinnamon, Lemon, Clove, and Rosemary essential oils that provide natural antibacterial and skin benefits. 💯
Very epic.
tried to order from you guys and the first time I clicked on the link to your website it says I'm blocked :( apparently 'some action I performed' maybe it's blocked in certain countries?
Hey, Alex! We currently only ship in the United States, but are looking into international orders in 2024! @@alexwood3459
I couldn't visit your website though?
your website is blocked for some reason unfortunately and I dont see your chalk for sale on bergfreunde or any of the other big european climbing supply stores
I just watched a 30 minute tier list of chalk when I don’t even go climbing. That’s how entertaining this guy is, keep it up man!
Im watching it because i play disc golf and here in ohio the humidity is awful. Been thinking about trying chalk
What stops you from going climbing? You already know pretty much about chalk, already. :D
made my day xD
@@chrism4008 You should find a good liquid chalk for that. Same good grip, way less messy.
@@martinmartin6300 or just hangout at the local climbing gym and talk smack about what chalk people are using
I think a blind test would have been more accurate , cuz bias can play a big role . Regardless, great video !
Facts, mental strength plays a huge role in how much strength you can put out and sustain.
Yes, I was going to comment exactly the same thing. It's very similar to the placebo affect, which has been replicated many times.
Well he expected the gorilla grip to be by far the best and it wasn’t
This test could actually be considered more accurate since people buying the chalk will know what they're using. If people buy a chalk with good branding and reviews and are more confident in it, they may climb better just due to the mental strength and not just the chalk, which is good! So them recommending chalk based on some external bias can also be helpful.
Yeah its the placebo effect, its why crystal therapy works for people who believe in it. Also when people buy paracetamol thats more expensive, its not that the paracetamol makes it better than the plain looking cheapest paracetamol, its the fact that you believe its better that makes it better.
I exclusively use this chalk I found in a Taiwanese climbing store. Came out to about $1.66/100g, so as any reasonable person would do, I bought a lifetime supply.
name?
@@Kennybro449 Idk, can't read Chinese.
how many kg is that?
@@ghostbirdlary 100g = 0.1 kg
@@chroma_aus lol
Just watched your thorough chalk test - thanks for recognizing the hard work we put into Magdust. It's truly rewarding to see it appreciated. If you ever get around to testing climbing pants, our Harness pants are worth a try. Modestly speaking, they might just be among the best climbing pants on the market. Keep doing these great reviews!
Honestly it's hard to disagree with the harness pants. They are really good! Extremely comfy, durable, thin and stretchy. Everything you would want in a pair of climbing pants:)
If you are responding to this Rungne - I am 6’ 2” and 142 lbs… would you guys have any sizes for someone with body dimensions like that? I want a pair but am afraid they won’t fit
@@ruraldemocrat
Hey! Happy to help out. Our pants are kinda long, but they're slim around the waist. They sound like a match made in heaven for your build! I'd say go for a size M. They might be just a smidge (like 1-2 cm) too short if you're into that classy pants-folding-over-the-shoes look, but they'll be spot on if you don't mind the slightly shorter style. Now, if you go for L, you'll probably nail the length, but might have a little extra wiggle room (again, think 1-2 cm) around the waist. Don't worry, they won't be falling off or anything!
I'm leaning towards M for the win, especially when it comes to how they'll fit around the thighs.
Let me know if you need more info! Cheers!
send this man some free loot
@@meatcrayon5930 Loot train incoming! Thanks for the love and interest.
The secret to Magnus's chalk is that the process to make it consists of letting super glue harden into a brick ⬜️ and then 🔨 smashing it into powder form
Nah the secret is that each little bit of chalk is actually a tiny white suction cup that sticks on any surface
Had to buy six bags of that magdust although I miss the tube. No matter how much chalk or what it’s made of; if you’re not strong enough, pinches will kick anyone’s ass
As the producers of Magnus chalk, we can neither confirm nor deny the involvement of superglue bricks in our top-secret manufacturing process. That said, we do want to correct one small detail - we don't just "smash" those bricks. No, we enlist a group of highly-trained squirrels who methodically chip away at it with tiny chisels and hammers. It's a spectacle, really.
What you did not mention, is that we during his intense climbing sessions, have a dedicated team that follows him around, catching every particle that ever dared to leave his body. This dust, rich in dedication and grit, is mixed into our chalk blend. The ratio? A secret we'll carry to our graves!
@@rungneapparel7061You guy’s have good people working for you! Whoever is holding the reins to your CZcams account is quite hilarious 😂 I love it
@@rungneapparel7061hahaha like the Willy Wonka factory for chalk. 😂
Doing some research, Upsalite is a new material invented in 2013 that's a version of chalk (magnesium carbonate) that has a higher surface area and water absorption. So theoretically it should keep your hands dryer for a long time because of the higher absorption, but it might make the hold seem smoother.
I used to use Metolius chalk. Semi-recently, I decided to try the Rungne Magdust chalk. I didn't know what to expect, but HOLY HELL was I blown away. My grip was improved so much with the Magdust compared to what I was using before; I felt like I could just stick my hands to a flat wall and climb it. I'm glad I took the chance on it.
What this test doesn't really address is how well the chalk stays on your hand from grip to grip.
A chalk can be really good the first grip but then fall apart completely when you go for a second grip.
Plus the timed test is highly varied by how much grip strength you have left, so doing a bunch of tests in a row could unfairly punish the later contenders. They address this but it still could have affected results.
Good one man, awesome that Magnus' chalk lives up to the meatball himself.
Would love a liquid chalk video or even a comparing liquid chalk to regular chalk and see how they both do against each other. When I first started climbing I was using liquid chalk so I would be interested to see how they do.
I'd love to see you guys test again in reverse order to see how being fatigued or being warmed up impacts the results
I once did a research on the upsalite for chemistry, and its the same substance as normal chalk, but produced very differently so that it has more inside surface to capture the water. So the performance of all chalk depends of the 3D structure of the molecules form and not the formula or the different elements in the molecule
Thats explains why it was so shit in the test, it is just there to capture the water but the feeling is totally different to other chalk
@@user-lw4wq6ok6f Seems they miss a key testing point for chalk which is how well it helps on long routes, and how it works with sweaty hands.
Fascinating!! Thanks!
@@OliverBatchelorI believe it’s an additive your supposed to add it to the other black diamond chalk mixes
Lmao, Magnus confirmed V4 climber with the antigravity chalk
upsilate is a magnisium carbonate made with really high surface area and pores so it absorbs water and oil really well. kinda sorta like orbeez is really porous SiO2 where SiO2 is also quartz
thats why its not meant to be used on its own. because it doesnt give grip, it absorbs moisture so the chalk can give you grip for longer
and the reason it was burning your nose is because it was sucking the moisture out of it.
so i dont think its fair to put it in F tier
Yeah, he should’ve realized when the package was so small that it was not meant to be used on its own. Also when he read “chalk ENHANCER”.
@@D4ng404 fr, "enhancer"
@@D4ng404 He did though. They acknowledged this during that section of the video.
They should've done a second test with the black gold with the additive. Or at least they should've removed it from the rankings since they invalidated the test by using it wrong
There are Japanese chalk brands you can buy to supplement the petzl chalk testing. Wise is Tomoa's brand for example.
Wise chalk is like putting your hand up a cloud's butt. In a good way.
@@BigShelley pahahaha
You should’ve set up an Amazon store link because after watching this video I went out and bought some of these. Gotta start thinking about making a little more coin for yourself. This channel is quickly becoming my favorite. You have good energy man and the way you present yourself comes across a little comedic and it’s hilarious.
Loved the video, only advice I’d give is to get a much larger sample size. Everyone has different skin and different chalks may react differently to individuals. Having a larger sample size would negate individual preferences and be more accurate. I’d say go to a climbing gym and maybe ask someone people if they want to partake in this kind experiment. And try to rush people through
I agree, also doing some blind testing so you don't know which chalk is being used until the exercise is completed will help eliminate any performance bias (eg. trying super hard with your favorite chalk).
You guys should do a video where you try to climb using different types of actual chalk . Like chalk for writing on black boards and chalk for the sidewalks.
Been using Primo chalk for a few years now. Absolutely goated. Smells great, perfect texture. They sell it in a 5 pound bucket for maximum value.
How does it taste?
Very sick video. The odds are insane too. I was just researching what chalk I should buy next.
I'd love to see a liquid chalk video!
*I just gather up all the chalk that everybody else thoughtfully leaves all over the gym pads.*
30:34 One thing though: there doesn't seem to be any control for right arm fatigue.
That's how magdust is made.... They just follow Magnus around and sweep it all up and bag it.
Great video! Thanks for testing out those brands, but with the blackdiamond pure gold chalk: it is supposed to be mixed with your normal chalk, because it absorbs 30% more sweat!
I havent laughed while watching a climbing video in a long time, thank you for that. Yall are great!
I typically don't like ranking videos but you did a good job making this one fun and interesting.
this was actually crazy helpful and as entertaining as usual. Awesome!
I'm pretty sure Pure Gold is intended to be mixed with other chalk.
yeah, do they even inform themselves? Like, they start inhaling it and coughing and just go ahead?
Mix it with mag dust to turn into Spiderman.
I do believe he mentions that
they literally said that at 11:25
yes, they say so multiple times in the video, were you not paying attention or are you just being wilfully ignorant?
The reason why the first few chalk brands you tested all seemed to be better than the last is probably just because your motor unit recruitment improves with each successive hang. Even if you used the same brand of chalk each time, you'd still expect performance to increase as your neuromuscular system warms up. A better comparison would be to do one test each day under the same conditions (e.g. hanging with no warmup or after fully warming up)
you wouldnt though because of fatigue
Fine keep your secrets than wizard.
Love your tier list videos
Wow, awesome video, super useful information. Thanks!
I have been grinding up sidewalk chalk, colorful and useful!
GOATed
I literally never use chalk but I'd watch the liquid chalk review as well. Fun video keep it up!
Now mix them all into one bag and see how it works!!
Nice review btw. Especially helpful as a new guy trying to see what to try out.
Just ordered magnus's chalk since I love the man anyway, lets hope its as good as you make it seem!
Im sorry... did i just see someone die??
Where
@@steffanlippiatt513 In the intro, someone falls off an outdoor climb onto zero padding. It did NOT look healthy.
@@plienair that person is definitely dead or at least some form of vegetable now, the slap and the way they land there's a big chance they're gone...
One thing about your test is that the holds start chalking up more the more you use them which might affect results
They brush it between takes
Powder chalk being banned from my bouldering gym I'm more than interested in a liquid chalk version of this tierlist. Thanks for the sciencing
The climbing gyms around here only allow balls and liquid chalk for rope climbing so yes, please make comparison video of those as well. Very nice video by the way :)
Man, this is pretty enlightening. I've never been a serious climber, but I took a few climbing classes as PE electives in college. So I'm a weird mix of beginner but not quite beginner. It never occurred to me to wonder what chalk I was using since the instructor had the chalk bags prepped and on the ground. I always just chalked up once per session and felt the chalk left on the walls were enough to carry me the rest of the way.
Great work! Funny and also really interesting
Already bought and love the magdust, nice to also see others appreciate it
Thank you for making this!!!
This is sick! Thank you for the thorough testing
Did you do all the tests on the same day, in succession? Or did you do them with fresh muscles each time?
I'm thinking the later ones might benefit from muscle memory or get hurt from muscle fatigue throughout the day
What about us? Blitz chalk is half the price and just as good, and we donate 10% to charity!
Never did i think a video about chalk would have me so entertained, but i was laughing throughout
Great video; however, I feel like a blind test would improve the accuracy because you wouldn't have any bias or placebo.
Good job, I didn't imagine chalk would make a significant difference in such a simple test. There are other things like how long they stay in your hand between applications that would be interesting to see as well.
I have the Metolius currently. Magnus is out of stock, the primo is the easiest one to get right now after shipping costs.
You know, I really love Magnus as a person and his videos. It's comforting to know that he isn't just trying to use his CZcams reputation and climbing reputation to sell shit. I understand why he gives it to other people when they're climbing and seems so proud of it now.
I'm kinda confused how did you not take the most important factor of chalk in consideration. How much moisture it absorbs. In other words, how dry it can keep your hands and fingers. There's a significant difference between chalks in that factor which I personally find the most important factor of chalk.
Amazing Video, very informative, very helpful. Love all the content. Good job.
Just bought some magdust. This is very helpful for beginners who have never tried good chalk!
You forgot to test Australia's Can Climb chalk! Great video guys.
For the liquid chalk test definitely try out Can Climbs
If you ever do another one of these, would love to see Chalk Cartel ranked!
Nice review! Earned a like and a sub.
Nice video. Interesting results.
Personally I have almost the opposite experience with some of the chalk you tested here. Note that I have extremely sweaty skin.
Black diamond white gold and primo chalk doesn't work well on my hands and can turn into a paste very quickly. The black Diamond black gold is significantly better at staying on and absorbing sweat. Friction lab Gorilla is my favorite.
Black diamonds gold is, as you said, chalk enhancer. It is meant to be mixed in or to be used as a pre-coat.
I would love to see a video where you try non chalk replacements to see what really works best. I.E. sawdust, elmers glue, marinara, dirt, duct tape, grease, sidewalk chalk, wd-40, water, flour, cheese, etc.
So the pure gold had me super curious. It is meant as a mix with other loose chalk or as a first coat. Its almost strictly meant to absorb moisture, not for better grip/friction. This video was great for having a good base line of what to use and whats out there
Thank you for this list! One chalk that I see missing from this list is Evolv.
OMG! Your Magnus accent impersonation! I'm dying!
For my birthday present, we tried Primo Chalk inspired by your review. It did really dry up the hands, was exciting, and it smelled like eucalyptus, very pleasant. Until, it turns out I'm pretty sure I'm allergic to it. It felt like something was coating my throat and I couldn't breathe. Now every time I'm barely around it, I can feel my throat close up. After three of us tried it, we all agreed we preferred friction lab. The chalk was a bit too fine and too dry perhaps, opinion of three. Luckily, the other two were not quite allergic to it. I felt that I was indeed dying. So please proceed with caution. I think how dry and fine it was, made it easier to really get into the lungs too. Good luck.
I love bison chalk and swear by it and turned a lot of people on to it from my gym I think it probably depends on your skin type. As someone with really sweaty skin climbing in a humid Florida gym it’s great. In contrast primo chalk doesn’t work well for my skin but worked great for you so I’m sure there are personal differences
I’m sad you did not test the Petzl power crunch chalk. I only use the power crunch chalk from experience it is good.
Very interesting testing! I love that for once it was done by actual climbers filming themselves going at it.
My question: have you ever used liquid chalk with rosin added? If so, could such a solution help you achieve better results than the ones in this video?
(I know some of you are rosin haters because it can make holds slick and yaddi-yadda, but my use would not be climbing related.)
I always use ocun chalk. Also could you compare liquid chalk to regular chalk?
Watched out of curiosity (Friction Labs fan now questioning everything) subbed for the sarcasm 🤣👌
Great video! I just think that not cleaning holds after each use could cause some disruptions in the review. Especially for the first chalks where the hold could have some dust on it. Other than that I had much fun!
Funny and informative great video
Thanks for this!! I needed this! I feel like I have some really bad chalk. Friction labs feels like flour. Gonna pick up one of your top three choices next
Just ordered the 3 pack of Rugne Magdust because of this video! Thanks again y’all.
Try MONKEYHANDS
how do you like it?@@jneumonik
Its the best chalk I've used so far, I was using the frictionlabs gorilla grip chunky most recently and was dry firing like crazy on my mini moonboard. I don't dry fire as much with the rugne. Keep in mind I climb on my mini moonboard in my garage here in hawaii and conditions are bad (humid and hot). The rugne is a huge difference for me.@@TheYanniD
Thanks, good to know. Im using some local cheap chalk. Dont think its that great. I ordered some magdust aswell. Thanks a lot :)
I had just got magdust in the mail and can’t wait to test it out tomorrow 😄
How is it?
I ordered a bag but damn, shipping to the US is half the price of the chalk. I’d have to order 8 bags to get shipping reduced enough to make it worth it but then I spent $120 on chalk…but at least all that went to chalk and not half to shipping.
As a non-climber I was skeptical that chalk had made an appreciable difference. Thanks for proving me wrong.
awesome vid!
Would love to see the liquid chalk one! :)
"I don't know anyone who's heard of trango gunpowder" aww I like it. Lol
I've used it as well as unicorn dust and some other random chalk for about a year each, and it's been my favorite of the 3.
You should try the So iLL Tokyo Powder, they have two scented option and and 2 non scented one, and the most premium chalk I've had the chance to use !
Tokyo Powder smells so damn delicious
Honestly never want to use another brand of chalk again after trying Tokyo Powder
If you‘re doing liquid chalk try Kapitän-Ohlsens FIN extra dry lavender liquid chalk. It‘s super sticky(and smells nice)😊
we use magnesium chloride at my work making veterinarian pharmaceuticals and it also burns your hands when it mixes with water(or sweat on your hands/in your gloves) and it’s truly a startling sensation at first
Love this I have been using some random stuff for 6 months now
Upgraded to Gekco chalk after I ran out of my previous stuff, shame it wasn’t reviewed but it feels so so soft to touch. Like I can’t even feel it when it’s in my chalk bag, my fingers just glide through it. Works well, would recommend!
omg that whip in the intro, is that guy even ok?
Do liquid chalk next! Loved this video :-)
Man, the genius of including a pinch workout in the Mitbo chalk.
0:24 damn dude, those 2 falls. BRUTAL. and the one was on belay but STILL got smashed.
idk if someone said that, black diamond pure gold is really an additive to make ANY chalk better, so it's not a chalk by itself, it helps with soaking more liquid or smthn like that
Great test! Would like to ser petzl, ocun hot and cold and moon dust in the next test!
What a golden video! 😂
What separates friction labs for me from everything else is that i don’t sweat it off instantly unlike most other chalks.
I was just thinking that, perhaps, the black diamond pure gold was meant to be mixed with other chalk. Or it might explodes.
Pure Gold is an additive-free chalk that will enhance your grip. Mix it with loose chalk to customize your blend or used as a pre-coat to optimize your grip.
My guess would be that chalk enhancer is used to enhance chalk.
I wonder if there's a balance between chalk stickyness and how badly it tears up your hands. I have a bottle of black diamond liquid chalk, that holds me on the wall like super glue, but I rip my calluses off on every session, even with good skin care. Black Diamond white gold and friction labs super chunky don't seem to do that to me.
I would like to see a test of other stuff, for example, rubber gloves, gardening gloves, boxing gloves. You get the idea. Or other substances found around the house or workshop.
I was honestly expecting the magdust to suck but I’m surprised and impressed
Another factor worth testing is longevity. Meaning how well does the chalk stay on your hans throuout a route.
I was sitting here wondering why Flashed chalk wasn't on the list, which led me to realize its a local company that makes it, hence its popularity in Alberta Canada, but nowhere else (Friction Labs is a bit better, but Flashed is about 1/2 the price)
heyy love your vids, but you should definitely put the amazon links to these chalk, put ur affiliated link, and gain some extra money as well!!
been watching your vids since 2K subs keep up the work
this guy is like the idubbz of climbing, that is a good thing 🙏
We would love to be in the next Tier list :)