Thanks for clearing that up, Paul. I took your advice to begin with but thought the only best way was to parallel to the sub amp first and then to the speakers. I see how going to the speakers first would preserve the desired speaker wire connection from the receiver to the speakers. My curiosity at the moment revolves around what settings i should use in the sub woofer amp to balance the addition of the sub to the speakers, since they usually have different sensitivities.
I have a Kenwood KV-107R receiver, and have used a couple of methods to add a subwoofer to this amp. I originally had the receiver going to the sub with its built in cross over, then to the A channel speakers. I ended up frying the cross over because of the 4 ohm load of the speakers. I purchased a separate cross over, actually an automotive Cerwin Vega cross over at 110 Hz with separate sub and speaker outputs. That worked well for years. Now I run the amp through a powered sub with speaker level inputs and outputs and a adjustable cross over freq and volume control. Those old Kenwoods were a blast, one of the 1st to have surround sound.
Years ago l had an average med fi system and ran an RCA cable from "tape output" on the amp to another (vintage) amp input. And turned the treble right down and bass right up (and "loudness" on) on the second amp and connected it to 2x8" woofers in a boom box. The boom box was a cheapie but had fat rubber surrounds (lol) and sounded great as a "sub" and you could adjust volume and tone of the "sub". It was all just cheap (second hand) med fi but great for the cost. And a friend did the same and bought two cheap vintage (solid state) amps and two sets of (cheap second hand) speakers and his room was pumping. He was stoked.
I used to manage telephone-based customer service agents. We would sometimes get calls from people who were lonely and no real support. Some of the stories were heart wrenching. One of the things I tried to do was coach my agents to truly listen and develop empathy. The stories I could tell ...
Jup same here. Also with electronics/gear in general. Everytime something doesn't work or is broken, they want me to fix it. It's nice to help others out, but the total lack of motivation to fix it themselves is sometimes a real pain in the arse to me.
My wife, kids, neighbors, and co-workers could care less. I could talk and demo all day long, hook up, change out and rearrange all day, but no one around me would appreciate it. I know I'm not alone, just sucks not having another person here to geek out with lol
Another thing is that many better subs, both passive and active, have some sort of crossover to attenuate the bass going to the "main" speakers when using provided hi level input terminals. As at least one other person commented about some vintage receivers having a set of PRE OUT/MAIN IN jacks giving the user a great option to set up a nice Sub/Satellite system when using a powered sub woofer. A high pass filter can be used to roll off the bass going to the main speakers just above the crossover point set on the powered sub! I've done it, really helps with improving the quality of the sound.
I think anytime a sub is connected via speaker level inputs, the variable crossover adjustment on the back panel of the sub should make the speakers only receive whatever you set it at, right? For example, if the x-over knob is at 80hz, I would assume that the main speakers will only handle frequencies above 80 Hz, while the sub handles anything below that... (This is assuming that the sub is connected via high/speaker level terminals: from amp to sub, then to main speakers, and NOT via the line level inputs). IDK if the x-over adjustment works at all when connected via line level RCA jacks.
@@shrimpu Wow, from 3 years ago! I had to re-read what I said! OK, using the speaker level In/Out terminals on a powered sub, when available, may or may not have an internal X-over. A lot never did due to the added expense. I've opened up a lot of these plate sub amps and found nothing but jumpers from In and Out terminals. Now, as for using the subs crossover pot adjustment. I know of zero amps that will act as a X-over for the attached main speakers. The knob only sets the rolloff point of the subs amp.
Hello. I have technics sug50 amp. I want to run a subwoofer with it along with the 2 speakers. The Amp also consists of pre amp out terminals. What should I do?
I decided to connect my subs via high impedance terminals some time ago. What a difference. I was lucky to be able to do so. Unfortunately so many subs are now built without that option. Too bad. The difference is night and day on my system.
I have a 1995 Sony Stereo that only has left speaker output and right speaker output and have wanted to run a subwoofer from this amplifier for a while now. I read that realistically there are two ways 1.) From your source, e.g. network streamer, computer... put a 3.5mm splitter into the aux out, then run an RCA from the splitter to your subwoofer RCA in. Then run another cable from the splitter into your amplifier. Therefore you have added a subwoofer to your sound which is not limited to using your amplifier e.g. you can use any aux speakers with the sub. This is also a good method as a lot of subwoofers only have RCA in and out ports as well as LFE 2.) the other way I read was as you said in the video, running another set of speakers wires from the amplifier into the speaker level inputs on the subwoofer. A lot of people like doing this as you are getting the same sound from your amplifier to both your speakers as well as the subwoofer. I am personally not sure which route to take, as I like the connectivity options of the first choice but also feel like the 2nd choice is a lot simpler in terms of wires and adapters.
I own an Onkyo SKW-204 subwoofer and I love it. The Onkyo TX-8020 receiver, not so much. I previously owned a Sansui 5000x and the sound was amazing so I purchased another. Now the Onkyo subwoofer does not have speaker terminal connections, only one single RCA subwoofer input connection. So after scouring the web came across a Rolls SX95 and couldn't be happier with the purchase. It not only hooks between my receiver and EQ it gives me dual subwoofer outputs, seperate subwoofer volume and cutoff frequency controls, a 180 degree phase switch and a subwoofer mono/stereo switch to run one single or dual subwoofers. If anyone runs a subwoofer without speaker connections I highly recommend this product.
Do you know if a powered subwoofer that doesnt have written high input on it anywhere but instead has (L in White) and (R in RED) with conection holes , Has a phase knob with 0 to 180 degrees, then inbetween volume knob and the phase knob , has 50hz - 180hz with a little nut and thread sticking out. Will i blow up my reciver or will it just not work as a subwoofer , as im hoping to add bass to my reciver which only has two book shelf speakers to it.
would that connection be in parallell or serial? i have a 6 to 16 ohm rated onkyo amp, a pair of 8 ohm speakers, and two active subwoofers with around 45K ohm. would the best way be to parallel, therefore giving around 7,8 ohm load on amp?
The best way I found was getting a Sub-Woofer that has inputs and outputs on it. I connect my receiver to the sub and then to its input side, then from the output to the speakers, done. My Polk Audio PSW 202 has both ways to connect to it, direct line in for a sub woofer out and through the speaker connections.
I was just thinking about this for a Sony stereo receiver I'm considering. I was going to do the A & B thing though. I wonder what are the disadvantages compared to the method Paul mentioned. 🤔
I have wondered the same, I think it would work if your EQ has TWO "out" jacks. (my Parasound EQ does) BUT the sub volume won't be adjusted with the amp volume, I think. because the 2nd "out" from EQ will need its own level control.
Dug it would be efficient as effective to have a second amp to drive your sub.. or you can creat a high Frequency cut off DIY cause you won't want to much high signals heating or distorting your sub. What you think?
HELP .. I don't think that I can connect my Yamaha receiver to the sub-woofers I got hanging around here. Ive got an almost vintage ( from the 90's ) Yamaha AVC 30U and Polk Audio PWS10 sub. I want to hook those up to small near field desktop speakers with less than adequate bass. The receiver has limited power on the back speakers for the simulated surround, so, I think I can only use bare speaker wire from the front speaker output.. The Polk only has rca inputs and maybe two sets of bare wire outputs. Not sure that it has high level inputs. Doesn't say high level. I was thinking of trying to hook the front speakers to the RCA using adapters, then run the wires from the back of the Sub to the speakers... Help? Do I need a new amp?
please can you help me ? I have vintage marantz 2216 receiver with A and B outputs. My SUB has High level IN (L and R) .... but it doesnt have High level output. What exactly do i have to connect ? I am trying connecting AMP A speaker output (L + R) to High level IN (SUB) and again AMP A to my speakers... am i right ? When i shut down my AMP , i am listening a boomy sound from my SUB.... why ?
If it's one sub, the best place is often near one corner (traditionally right, as the lower orchestral instruments hang out over there) so you could run an extra set of lefts out that way from the amp, which might be neater, and take the sub right out from the back of the right speaker
I had the Sony amp and tuner in the video thumbnail. They date from circa 1972. I bought them at an Antiques Fair here in Lancaster, UK. All original caps, they worked perfectly and sounded great! Unfortunately, I no longer have them.
Not really, because what Paul described was really simple and basic! No diagram required! Unless you're particularly technically inept, or new to Hi-Fi?
I get It Paul. But the "better rationale" , for using the "B" set of speakers on a Vintage Integrated amp or receiver, is that It creates a Quick Method to "By - Pass" the Sub; if the Sub is hooked up to "B". As It will Only come on (With the Main Speakers) If Both "A & B" Speaker Sets are Switched-On. Regardless, in Every case possible (even In the "A & B" method of hooking up the Sub) ; utilizing "Speaker Level Inputs", is certainly Best. Again, the Only advantage to my Former Suggestion, Is that on the "A" Speaker Only setting, You get to BY PASS the Sub. Making It handier still, to get a Correct Balance / Integration of the Sub, into Overall System. Or perhaps, You just like the "Main Speakers', on alone for some Music.
Great stuff. I move one step forward on my activity.Perhaps someone can disavow me of my stupidity even further? I have a bluetooth amplifier 4-16𝛺, Single Channel? (only one L & R output) which drives two DML foam flat panel speakers fitted with 44mm 4𝛺/15W exciters, and I want to add a passive, DML flat panel, foam bass speaker fitted with a 50mm 4𝛺/20W exciter with a 5mH, low pass filter, to the amplifier. If I understand correctly, I should be able to connect the passive bass in parallel with the main speakers and it should work fine, right? Or should I connect it in series from pos L to neg R and visa versa?
I got a Cerwin-Vega Earthquake EL-36DP and it only has XLR imputs first off do you need to use the one or both xlr inputs to work and 2 I cannot get it to work on my old amp onkyo tx850 I got a high level to low level converter with a rca to xlr cable its not working some one help me on this please
Anybody know how to best connect the KEF KC62 subwoofer to the Primaluna Evo 400 preamp/power units? I’m new to this midway in life lol.. appreciate the expertise folks 🙏🏼
What did Paul just describe? I have no idea and would probably blow stuff up. Was he describing hooking a subwoofer to the back of my bookshelf speakers?
I have a rogue audio sphinx that only has an A channel and just bought a kef kc62. Was about to get a 10ft rca cable and go out of the variable output on the amp but running a wire from my ls 50 metas straight to the sub sounds a lot easier and cheaper
I use the high level inputs, then out to stereo speakers. Easy. At the same time, I use the low level input for inputting from my A/V system. I just don't use them both at the same time.
Hey Paul, can this method damage the high level input of the sub when I crank the volume to 80% or more? Because on a audio mixer if the source is too loud the input of the mixer maybe damage or the output of that channel will sound weak.
a passive subwoofer have a speaker level resistance, something like 8 ohm for example. that makes a serial or paralell connection much more different from a active subwoofer with around 45000 ohm. the passive subwoofer should be treated as a normal speaker when bridging.
I intended to use the subwoofer crossover for the sake of “removing” some bass-reflex from the main speakers (Floorstands), shifting the main speakers to deal only with the other frequencies not covered by the subwoofer but I am realizing now that although “High level In L/R” are common on subwoofers, the corresponding “high level out L/R” are not that common, REL, Magnat some examples… Isn’t this the main purpose of adding a subwoofer to a stereo system?? Will it have the same added value to the sound if the bass reflex problems from the main speakers are still present with the added subwoofer? Cheers
Don't use the high level output, ever. It's just a chunk of metal in the signal path to your speaker, and doesn't impart any high-pass to the mains either. It's simply a parallel connection, better made by running two sets of wires to your mains and sub separately.
I tried to follow your instruction Paul but I got confused when I saw the back of my powered sub. As instucted, I hooked up my left and right output on my amp to the left and right input on my speakers (meaning that each speaker received one left and right cable input). When I try to parallel those cables to the sub, I noticed that there are 2 set of high level input on each sub whilst I have only 1 left and right cable from each speaker. Which high level input on the sub should I chose (left or right or maybe both of them in parallel)? Thank you
They are probably in parallel so you can go from your amp to the sub and then on the second set of binding posts, go from them to your speakers. In the way you're doing it, just leave the extra set without anything connected.
@@Paulmcgowanpsaudio Thx heaps; I thought so. I have another amp which has 2 pairs spkr terminals/that’s the other way 2 do it but I’ll opt 4 parallel wiring per ur advice 4 the amp I have in mind. Rgds🤝
@@Paulmcgowanpsaudio I'm a newbie so excuse my ignorance. Is the method to just attach a duplicate set of wires leading from my two-channel amp, one set to the speaker (say left for example) and a duplicate set out to the subwoofer from the same left channel exiting the amp to the sub? Any help would be appreciated!
8 Ohms in parallell with 50 kOhms gives something like 7.998 Ohms. I've always used my REL Strata 5 through the high level input - it has a 3 lead dedicated cable running from both speaker terminals: "Red to the amplifier’s primary right speaker red terminal, yellow to the amplifier’s primary left speaker red terminal and black to one of amplifier’s primary speaker black terminals (not both)". (I just found out that this is NOT how you should connect it to a Class D amplifier - since their negative terminals most often are not connected to ground, but reference 10-15 V. For Class D, don't connect the black wire, just the two positive connections). The cable terminates in a Neutrik Speakon that clicks into place on the subwoofer. This ensures that the character of the bass from the main system is carried forward into the sub-bass. I have at times hooked a receiver to the sub as well, through the LFE input, but high level is a very good way to integrate the sub into any system. Just make sure that the sub "couples" with the room properly, to make the most of it. Placement in corners is recommended - and using two subwoofers is of course even better. I cross over to the sub way below 100 Hz, so it's not a problem using just one. Many subwoofers have two sets of regular speaker terminals for high level connection, in which case you just run two separate, regular speaker cables to it. The Strata 5 has 10 kOhms input impedance - gives 7.993 Ohms in parallell with 8 Ohms. To even get to 7 Ohms in parallell, the high level input would have to be just 56 Ohms.
Kevin Thomas You just put the speaker cable(left/right) into the high level input of the subwoofer, and then from the output from the subwoofer to your speakers. Many subwoofers both have low(LFE) and high level input.
@@dandiki connect your speakers to amp like normal. put speaker wires in the high level inputs on sub. connect the other end of the speaker wires from sub, to left and right speakers. done.
My A & B speakers sit right next to one another. If you like the way your system sounds buy another set of the same exact speakers and put them right next to the originals. Even with the same power divided up between them you will be shocked on how good it sounds.
Of course, if you have a subwoofer that isn't powered, you could buy a subwoofer amplifier (I use a Dayton sa230. It is reasonably priced and handles the low end crossover duties.)
if the sub doesn't have high level inputs and the amp doesn't have a pre out, could I get a high to low level converter or will these cheap converters degrade sound quality?
If your amp has a record out you can use this to have your sub connected (but you won't be able to control its volume through the amp; only from the sub's gain knob)
@@georgeboubous8318 yeah, but that's stupid. I don't have a sub yet but I think it's better to get one with high level in then. I probably go for a rel tzero
@Fat Rat I don't remember the time of turning the record over because I wasn't born at this time. But adjusting the sub to fit the output of the amp everytime I change volume is a bit annoying since I have to find the correct adjustment every single time.
You'll only require a line converter if the sub has no high-level input. There's nothing wrong or anti-audiophile about the high level input, it's just seems most folks do it wrong by using the high level output back to their main speakers instead of properly running two sets of wires. The high level out is just a simplistic method for lay consumers, but not audiophiles.
a subwoofer with a HI-level input such as a REL. I have two of them. Easy connection at the speaker terminals. Job done. Plenty of diagrams on the net, just search. Or leave a comment with an e-mail and I'll send you what I have with pleasure. XXXXX. Paul, can I send you what I have for your review??
But unfortunately this way your speakers still get the full range signal. It's best to cut the frequency of the speakers off just above their roll-off point. Like at around 60hz or so, then pass that to sub. You can do this with bass management, some subs have RCA inputs and outputs that will cut out 80hz or so, or subs with speaker wire in and out to the speakers.
@@brydon10 I was wondering about that can you run from preout through the sub and back to the power stage? with rca of course. So that the sub takes out those frequencies and leaves the rest
@@sebastianvanderwolf6500 Yep, that's pretty much exactly what it was designed to do. I encourage you to try running the speakers full range as well though. Usually it is easier to integrate the subwoofer that way. It seems most "audiophiles" do it this way.
Paul seems to be confused about A and B outs. On most receivers the A and B outs can play at the same time so one can be used to output the signal to the sub.
@@trog69 Seems you are confused because he said you don't need A + B outputs. You only need one to connect a sub via high level. But you CAN use the B output for the sub alone if you want to.
@@Oystein87 In that case the impedance of the powered SUB also has to be taken into account, right? So if the amp is only rated for 8 ohm with TWO pairs of speakers running, (A and B both on), and if the speakers are 6 ohm, and the sub is...IDK, 1 ohm, the total impedance drops to 5 ohm, right? But the amp is only rated for 8 ohm with TWO pairs of speakers.... what to do in that case?
@@shrimpu No, impedance on the sub does not matter since it has it's own amp... The extra speaker cables are only to send the signal to the sub amps high level inputs. The subwoofer itself (usually a 4ohm driver) is driven by the subs internal amp.. So the main amp should not experience any extra load because of that.. And no amp is really just "rated" for X amount of ohms... All normal amps handle 4ohms and up with no issues. The higher impedance the easier for the amp because higher ohms just gives lower power output. Problem starts when loads het down to 2ohms or lower.. Then some amps can get fried if they are driven too hard. Bonus fact: An amp messured to 100w @ 8ohms should be 200w @ 4ohms IF it is properly built with a big enough power supply. If the power supply is too small it will not double the power output at half the ohms as it should. Good amps are built to double the power. But sadly most amps output is messured at 6 or 8ohms @ 1kHz and 1 or 2 channels driven instead of 20-20.000Hz on all channels driven at various loads. So watts on amps are very often rated to be a much higher watt than it actually can deliver. I rather know how big the power supply is and if it is class A, AB or D etc and then I can just calculate what it actually truly can deliver. Class AB looses about 40-50% in heat so to give out 100w it MUST have about 200w power supply or even karger. I have had amps at proper rated 50w that litteraly beat the living shit of a fake messured 100w amp because the wannabe 100w amp did not physicly have a big enough power supply to deliver anything close to 100w continous output.
@@Oystein87 Thanks so much. Totally disregarded the internal amp of an ACTIVE sub. (This is why I shouldn't post after a night shift) So in my case I think I am safe either way: Kenwood KA 7100 rated 65 wpc @ 8 ohms (20 - 20k Hz both channels driven), "REAL" watts. Not sure if it actually doubles the WPC at 4 ohms, but it has a solid rep. Only thing I find annoying all the cable salad running from amp to sub and sub to amp.... but I don't think it will result in any audible reduction of actual SQ.
Unfortunately most older receivers only have a low level output for tape recording which like a pre out is fixed volume so you would go nuts constantly adjusting the sub amp volume.
I sympathise with that caller to Scott - the audiophile is a lonely hunter. I used to visit my local dealer back in the day on Saturdays - coffee, chats, demos. Sadly no longer around. Always wondered about connection a sub. Thanks Paul.
Seriously, what is he saying? I listened 5 times. Is he just coming out of the receiver > into the subwoofer speaker line inputs > then out of the subwoofer line outputs > to the front left & right Loudspeakers? Just a loop: out of receiver... into sub...out sub....to speakers? Is this right?
This article I found confirms: Method 4: Use speaker wires to connect the subwoofer to the receiver Again, there is no preamp output on your receiver; you may use your subwoofer like a speaker. Run speaker wires to join the subwoofer to the receiver. Connect it to the front right and left speaker terminals of the receiver. Then, connect those front left & right speakers to the speaker terminal of the subwoofer. Usually, the subwoofers available in the market come with the speaker-level facilities. Still, you should check before you purchase yours.
Why don't you teach with a diagram or with a receiver the theory is nice, but the graphics teach too .. and I was left without knowing how to connect my Bose acoustimass7 in my Kenwood cheers
Well you can use the A&B and come out jointly, I think he wants to turn the subwoofer on and off so use it AB, I think better is to connect the main speakers wires to the subwoofer just having the one speaker wires to the subwoofer and another set of wires to the speakers not sure it's good idea having two sets of Wires running in parallel a lot of interference could be happening impedance capacitance issues. Phone PS audio for your audio counselling lol
I run from amp to sub then to speakers as per manual, I do have the option of coax from preamp to sub and have tried but "seems" best sounding with first option, coax to sub maybe best for AV but sure others disagree of course and all good
I don’t think a 24 year old receiver qualify to be vintage. The Kenwood 105 VR was produced in 1998, its classic not vintage. Classic to start at 20 years an vintage to start at 40 years. Antiques start at 100 years, does anyone know an antique person?
Be careful using the "B" speaker outputs with a sub's high-level input -- some of those old amps and receivers establish a *series* connection when "A+B" is selected!
@@josephtibbs If the amp/rcvr is not rated for low impedance speakers (like 4 ohm with A+B: this should be stated next to speaker connections on most amps), the total impedance with speakers and sub (A+B) can drop to a level that the amp cannot handle with 2 pairs (A+B at the same time (it will "think" the sub is a second set of speakers and most will only handle 8 ohm loads combined with A+B selected). So if the combined impedance from A speakers and B speakers (in this case B sub) drops below 8...say to 5 ohm the amp might have trouble putting out that much current.
@@shrimpu Thanks for the reply! In my case, I have a late 1970s Yamaha CR820, with Klipsch Hersey IV speakers on A and a modern Emotiva powered subwoofer on B. Similiar to what @backstab86 said above, my Yamaha says 4-16 ohms for A or B, or 8-16 ohms for A+B. Since my Kilpsch speakers are 8 ohm and the impedence of the sub is pretty high (from what I understand), I think the receiver should be OK powering both. What are your thoughts?
Paul, That story of your son sorta highlights the importance of this crazy nitch community. I can relate to exactly what he is saying with regards for folks around him not into listening to him talk about audio. I talk and try to spread the gospel but I'm not sure my listeners are really engaged with what I'm saying and just want me to stop talking.lol. when your talking and all your getting is head nodding, and short replys or passing out my headphone rig to show off and one person barely even puts it's on their head to give you a nice that sounds good reply. So I can see where that customer wanted to talk to your son. I have been guilty of taking up dealers (hardly any left) time talking audio just to talk about audio but respecting he has a job selling gear and doing home installs. Perhaps it's time to go to some hifi shows like rocky Mountain fest or others in the future to talk audio or come visit ps audio and talk shop with employees there😀 be dangerous living near ps audio as I would become such a frequent visitor they would just offer me a job application 😀
It’s not so ideal to have your side speakers produce or trying to produce the same sub bass as your subwoofer. It will waste a lot of power, make more distortion, limit how loud you can play and potentially cause some frequency response issues. Your side speakers should have a high-pass filter matching the low-pass filter characteristics of your subwoofer. That’s better done on a line level than on a power signal level also.
poserwannabe Yes, actually what’s the point of adding a subwoofer to make some clean sub bass and you have some small woofers in your side speakers creating a lot of distortion around 60Hz totally ruining the experience when you play loud?
Method 4: Use speaker wires to connect the subwoofer to the receiver Again, there is no preamp output on your receiver; you may use your subwoofer like a speaker. Run speaker wires to join the subwoofer to the receiver. Connect it to the front right and left speaker terminals of the receiver. Then, connect those front left & right speakers to the speaker terminal of the subwoofer. Usually, the subwoofers available in the market come with the speaker-level facilities. Still, you should check before you purchase yours.
Never use the high-level output on a powered sub except to daisy chain 2 or more identical subs together. High level outputs are just wired parallel to the input, meaning it's just a chunk of metal in the signal path to your speaker, and running 2 sets of wires removes that chunk of metal from the path.
I see no point in hooking a sub to a vintage 2 channel stereo in the first place. A vintage stereo receiver is capable of driving two pairs of speakers. Left and Right stereo audio driving your "A" pair of speakers. Left and Right stereo audio driving your "B" pair of speakers. You have four woofers supplying bass from the A and B speaker outputs, unless you're driving cheap full range speakers. Most people will be driving two pairs of 2-way speakers or 3-way speakers. Those four quality speakers will supply plenty of low frequency bass response. IMO adding a powered sub to a vintage 2 channel receiver is just over kill.
Because you're effectively bi-amping with the powered sub and reaping all the benefits. Yea, all personal preference. I think it's implied the guy's low freq needed improved.
If you were using good vintage speakers you would not need a subwoofer, home made speakers can be even better, good vintage and good homemade speakers can go down all the way that modern subwoofers can.
Thanks, Paul, you won't believe how difficult it has been to get someone to explain that in plain English.
How positive is this man that is INCREDIBLE. I just had tears in my eyes how POSITIVE THIS MAN IS. Its unbelievable. ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for clearing that up, Paul. I took your advice to begin with but thought the only best way was to parallel to the sub amp first and then to the speakers. I see how going to the speakers first would preserve the desired speaker wire connection from the receiver to the speakers. My curiosity at the moment revolves around what settings i should use in the sub woofer amp to balance the addition of the sub to the speakers, since they usually have different sensitivities.
This video came at just the right time for me as I'm joking a subwoofer to my gaming amp. Many thanks.
I have a Kenwood KV-107R receiver, and have used a couple of methods to add a subwoofer to this amp. I originally had the receiver going to the sub with its built in cross over, then to the A channel speakers. I ended up frying the cross over because of the 4 ohm load of the speakers. I purchased a separate cross over, actually an automotive Cerwin Vega cross over at 110 Hz with separate sub and speaker outputs. That worked well for years. Now I run the amp through a powered sub with speaker level inputs and outputs and a adjustable cross over freq and volume control. Those old Kenwoods were a blast, one of the 1st to have surround sound.
I don't know if you answered his question, but you told me everything I need. Thanks
Years ago l had an average med fi system and ran an RCA cable from "tape output" on the amp to another (vintage) amp input. And turned the treble right down and bass right up (and "loudness" on) on the second amp and connected it to 2x8" woofers in a boom box. The boom box was a cheapie but had fat rubber surrounds (lol) and sounded great as a "sub" and you could adjust volume and tone of the "sub". It was all just cheap (second hand) med fi but great for the cost. And a friend did the same and bought two cheap vintage (solid state) amps and two sets of (cheap second hand) speakers and his room was pumping. He was stoked.
I used to manage telephone-based customer service agents. We would sometimes get calls from people who were lonely and no real support. Some of the stories were heart wrenching. One of the things I tried to do was coach my agents to truly listen and develop empathy. The stories I could tell ...
Fat Rat Not a bad idea - it would be somewhat short, maybe a blog post?
Oh, man. I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to spend all day talking about hi-fi gear, but it feels like it, at home...
It's pretty much been the only thing keeping my mind occupied during the whole covid-19 thing - and now protests.
Jup same here. Also with electronics/gear in general.
Everytime something doesn't work or is broken, they want me to fix it.
It's nice to help others out, but the total lack of motivation to fix it themselves is sometimes a real pain in the arse to me.
My wife, kids, neighbors, and co-workers could care less. I could talk and demo all day long, hook up, change out and rearrange all day, but no one around me would appreciate it. I know I'm not alone, just sucks not having another person here to geek out with lol
@@AudioGearhead It's like the Twilight Zone. But at least there are methods of communicating with like-minded people, I guess.
Another thing is that many better subs, both passive and active, have some sort of crossover to attenuate the bass going to the "main" speakers when using provided hi level input terminals. As at least one other person commented about some vintage receivers having a set of PRE OUT/MAIN IN jacks giving the user a great option to set up a nice Sub/Satellite system when using a powered sub woofer. A high pass filter can be used to roll off the bass going to the main speakers just above the crossover point set on the powered sub! I've done it, really helps with improving the quality of the sound.
I think anytime a sub is connected via speaker level inputs, the variable crossover adjustment on the back panel of the sub should make the speakers only receive whatever you set it at, right? For example, if the x-over knob is at 80hz, I would assume that the main speakers will only handle frequencies above 80 Hz, while the sub handles anything below that... (This is assuming that the sub is connected via high/speaker level terminals: from amp to sub, then to main speakers, and NOT via the line level inputs). IDK if the x-over adjustment works at all when connected via line level RCA jacks.
@@shrimpu Wow, from 3 years ago! I had to re-read what I said! OK, using the speaker level In/Out terminals on a powered sub, when available, may or may not have an internal X-over. A lot never did due to the added expense. I've opened up a lot of these plate sub amps and found nothing but jumpers from In and Out terminals. Now, as for using the subs crossover pot adjustment. I know of zero amps that will act as a X-over for the attached main speakers. The knob only sets the rolloff point of the subs amp.
Hello. I have technics sug50 amp. I want to run a subwoofer with it along with the 2 speakers. The Amp also consists of pre amp out terminals. What should I do?
I decided to connect my subs via high impedance terminals some time ago. What a difference. I was lucky to be able to do so. Unfortunately so many subs are now built without that option. Too bad. The difference is night and day on my system.
I have a 1995 Sony Stereo that only has left speaker output and right speaker output and have wanted to run a subwoofer from this amplifier for a while now. I read that realistically there are two ways
1.) From your source, e.g. network streamer, computer... put a 3.5mm splitter into the aux out, then run an RCA from the splitter to your subwoofer RCA in. Then run another cable from the splitter into your amplifier. Therefore you have added a subwoofer to your sound which is not limited to using your amplifier e.g. you can use any aux speakers with the sub. This is also a good method as a lot of subwoofers only have RCA in and out ports as well as LFE
2.) the other way I read was as you said in the video, running another set of speakers wires from the amplifier into the speaker level inputs on the subwoofer. A lot of people like doing this as you are getting the same sound from your amplifier to both your speakers as well as the subwoofer.
I am personally not sure which route to take, as I like the connectivity options of the first choice but also feel like the 2nd choice is a lot simpler in terms of wires and adapters.
I own an Onkyo SKW-204 subwoofer and I love it. The Onkyo TX-8020 receiver, not so much. I previously owned a Sansui 5000x and the sound was amazing so I purchased another. Now the Onkyo subwoofer does not have speaker terminal connections, only one single RCA subwoofer input connection. So after scouring the web came across a Rolls SX95 and couldn't be happier with the purchase. It not only hooks between my receiver and EQ it gives me dual subwoofer outputs, seperate subwoofer volume and cutoff frequency controls, a 180 degree phase switch and a subwoofer mono/stereo switch to run one single or dual subwoofers. If anyone runs a subwoofer without speaker connections I highly recommend this product.
Do you know if a powered subwoofer that doesnt have written high input on it anywhere but instead has (L in White) and (R in RED) with conection holes , Has a phase knob with 0 to 180 degrees, then inbetween volume knob and the phase knob , has 50hz - 180hz with a little nut and thread sticking out.
Will i blow up my reciver or will it just not work as a subwoofer , as im hoping to add bass to my reciver which only has two book shelf speakers to it.
Most powered subs don't have high-pass crossovers. I added a set to mine. Works a treat.
would that connection be in parallell or serial?
i have a 6 to 16 ohm rated onkyo amp, a pair of 8 ohm speakers, and two active subwoofers with around 45K ohm.
would the best way be to parallel, therefore giving around 7,8 ohm load on amp?
You should explain all this in a drawing in a blank paper 📝
Most Excellent!! Thank You. I love vintage gear.
You have good vibes and I appreciate your cool atitude
The best way I found was getting a Sub-Woofer that has inputs and outputs on it. I connect my receiver to the sub and then to its input side, then from the output to the speakers, done. My Polk Audio PSW 202 has both ways to connect to it, direct line in for a sub woofer out and through the speaker connections.
You're an awesome guy Paul. :-)
I was just thinking about this for a Sony stereo receiver I'm considering. I was going to do the A & B thing though. I wonder what are the disadvantages compared to the method Paul mentioned. 🤔
Also can I attach two amp with one graphic equalizer? So that I can use my one amp for sub and the other for speakers.
I have wondered the same, I think it would work if your EQ has TWO "out" jacks. (my Parasound EQ does) BUT the sub volume won't be adjusted with the amp volume, I think. because the 2nd "out" from EQ will need its own level control.
Dug it would be efficient as effective to have a second amp to drive your sub.. or you can creat a high Frequency cut off DIY cause you won't want to much high signals heating or distorting your sub. What you think?
HELP
.. I don't think that I can connect my Yamaha receiver to the sub-woofers I got hanging around here. Ive got an almost vintage ( from the 90's ) Yamaha AVC 30U and Polk Audio PWS10 sub. I want to hook those up to small near field desktop speakers with less than adequate bass.
The receiver has limited power on the back speakers for the simulated surround, so, I think I can only use bare speaker wire from the front speaker output.. The Polk only has rca inputs and maybe two sets of bare wire outputs. Not sure that it has high level inputs. Doesn't say high level.
I was thinking of trying to hook the front speakers to the RCA using adapters, then run the wires from the back of the Sub to the speakers...
Help?
Do I need a new amp?
what if no speaker level input on amp? brand new sub doesn't have it, unfortunately
Thanks Paul, I was wondering how I could do this. Now I know.
please can you help me ?
I have vintage marantz 2216 receiver with A and B outputs.
My SUB has High level IN (L and R) .... but it doesnt have High level output.
What exactly do i have to connect ?
I am trying connecting AMP A speaker output (L + R) to High level IN (SUB) and again AMP A to my speakers... am i right ?
When i shut down my AMP , i am listening a boomy sound from my SUB.... why ?
If it's one sub, the best place is often near one corner (traditionally right, as the lower orchestral instruments hang out over there) so you could run an extra set of lefts out that way from the amp, which might be neater, and take the sub right out from the back of the right speaker
Great info Paul
I had the Sony amp and tuner in the video thumbnail. They date from circa 1972. I bought them at an Antiques Fair here in Lancaster, UK. All original caps, they worked perfectly and sounded great! Unfortunately, I no longer have them.
A little diagram would really help.
Not really, because what Paul described was really simple and basic! No diagram required! Unless you're particularly technically inept, or new to Hi-Fi?
@@marcse7en I'm trying to hook up 2 powered subs to a amp that has only 1 sub out.
@@RickMahoney2013 I use a Y adapter.
@@mikecampbell5856 for 2 subs ? one wire to each sub.
@@RickMahoney2013 If your receiver has an RCA output it requires an RCA type splitter and you can run an RCA cable to each sub.
I recognise that tuner and amplifier. I owned that cute little SONY ST-70 Tuner - my first ever hi-fi tuner.!
4:56 That got me right in the feels. As the kids would say.
I think he was talking about active sub. How to do it on a passive subwoofer?
What if your sub doesn’t have speaker ins and outs? Only a/v cable input
I get It Paul. But the "better rationale" , for using the "B" set of speakers on a Vintage Integrated amp or receiver, is that It creates a Quick Method to "By - Pass" the Sub; if the Sub is hooked up to "B". As It will Only come on (With the Main Speakers) If Both "A & B" Speaker Sets are Switched-On. Regardless, in Every case possible (even In the "A & B" method of hooking up the Sub) ; utilizing "Speaker Level Inputs", is certainly Best. Again, the Only advantage to my Former Suggestion, Is that on the "A" Speaker Only setting, You get to BY PASS the Sub. Making It handier still, to get a Correct Balance / Integration of the Sub, into Overall System. Or perhaps, You just like the "Main Speakers', on alone for some Music.
Great stuff. I move one step forward on my activity.Perhaps someone can disavow me of my stupidity even further? I have a bluetooth amplifier 4-16𝛺, Single Channel? (only one L & R output) which drives two DML foam flat panel speakers fitted with 44mm 4𝛺/15W exciters, and I want to add a passive, DML flat panel, foam bass speaker fitted with a 50mm 4𝛺/20W exciter with a 5mH, low pass filter, to the amplifier. If I understand correctly, I should be able to connect the passive bass in parallel with the main speakers and it should work fine, right? Or should I connect it in series from pos L to neg R and visa versa?
Paul, great video - one question - do i need a crossover to select the correct fequency for the sub (i.e. 80hz)?
What's the amp and tuner displayed just before this video, Paul?
Mid seventies Sony
Sony TA-70 Amp & ST-70 Tuner, perhaps?
I got a Cerwin-Vega Earthquake EL-36DP and it only has XLR imputs first off do you need to use the one or both xlr inputs to work and 2 I cannot get it to work on my old amp onkyo tx850 I got a high level to low level converter with a rca to xlr cable its not working some one help me on this please
if its not possible i need to return it i might of messed up big time buying this. thanks
Anybody know how to best connect the KEF KC62 subwoofer to the Primaluna Evo 400 preamp/power units? I’m new to this midway in life lol.. appreciate the expertise folks 🙏🏼
What did Paul just describe? I have no idea and would probably blow stuff up. Was he describing hooking a subwoofer to the back of my bookshelf speakers?
Yes, you can run wires from one or both of your bookshelf speakers to the high level input on your sub
I have a rogue audio sphinx that only has an A channel and just bought a kef kc62. Was about to get a 10ft rca cable and go out of the variable output on the amp but running a wire from my ls 50 metas straight to the sub sounds a lot easier and cheaper
Great upload, great channel. I've watched a few now. +1 sub.
I use the high level inputs, then out to stereo speakers. Easy. At the same time, I use the low level input for inputting from my A/V system. I just don't use them both at the same time.
Hey Paul, can this method damage the high level input of the sub when I crank the volume to 80% or more? Because on a audio mixer if the source is too loud the input of the mixer maybe damage or the output of that channel will sound weak.
Don't do it the sub Will die
Hi Paul I had the Sony amplifier shown in the thump nail back in the seventies.
Would that be an Active or Passive Subwoofer, Paul? Or does it not make a difference?
a passive subwoofer have a speaker level resistance, something like 8 ohm for example. that makes a serial or paralell connection much more different from a active subwoofer with around 45000 ohm.
the passive subwoofer should be treated as a normal speaker when bridging.
I intended to use the subwoofer crossover for the sake of “removing” some bass-reflex from the main speakers (Floorstands), shifting the main speakers to deal only with the other frequencies not covered by the subwoofer but I am realizing now that although “High level In L/R” are common on subwoofers, the corresponding “high level out L/R” are not that common, REL, Magnat some examples… Isn’t this the main purpose of adding a subwoofer to a stereo system?? Will it have the same added value to the sound if the bass reflex problems from the main speakers are still present with the added subwoofer? Cheers
Don't use the high level output, ever. It's just a chunk of metal in the signal path to your speaker, and doesn't impart any high-pass to the mains either. It's simply a parallel connection, better made by running two sets of wires to your mains and sub separately.
@@xxxYYZxxx Thx
Groovy your like the Fred Rogers of audio advice 🤖
That Sony in the thumbnail is so nice.
Read my comment! I had one! 👍
I was wondering what that was. Beautiful.
The Sony ST-70 Tuner and TA-70 Amplifier - really cute. I owned that tuner
Speaking of parallel connecting speakers, I run two pair of Large Advent speakers off a 2 watt SET tube amp. Works just fine.
I tried to follow your instruction Paul but I got confused when I saw the back of my powered sub.
As instucted, I hooked up my left and right output on my amp to the left and right input on my speakers (meaning that each speaker received one left and right cable input). When I try to parallel those cables to the sub, I noticed that there are 2 set of high level input on each sub whilst I have only 1 left and right cable from each speaker.
Which high level input on the sub should I chose (left or right or maybe both of them in parallel)? Thank you
They are probably in parallel so you can go from your amp to the sub and then on the second set of binding posts, go from them to your speakers. In the way you're doing it, just leave the extra set without anything connected.
How can i connect old Pioneer receiver to LG amplifier
What … jumper from one of ur main spkrs to the sub or from the amp?
Run two wires in parallel, both from the amp. One to the sub, one to the speaker.
@@Paulmcgowanpsaudio Thx heaps; I thought so. I have another amp which has 2 pairs spkr terminals/that’s the other way 2 do it but I’ll opt 4 parallel wiring per ur advice 4 the amp I have in mind. Rgds🤝
@@Paulmcgowanpsaudio I'm a newbie so excuse my ignorance. Is the method to just attach a duplicate set of wires leading from my two-channel amp, one set to the speaker (say left for example) and a duplicate set out to the subwoofer from the same left channel exiting the amp to the sub? Any help would be appreciated!
@@davids4795 Yes, you have it right. As long as your subwoofer has a set of high level inputs (many do not) then you're all good.
@@Paulmcgowanpsaudio Thanks very much. I will do that, Run a duplicate set of wires out to the subwoofer from the left and right channel of my amp.
8 Ohms in parallell with 50 kOhms gives something like 7.998 Ohms. I've always used my REL Strata 5 through the high level input - it has a 3 lead dedicated cable running from both speaker terminals: "Red to the amplifier’s primary right speaker red terminal, yellow to the amplifier’s primary left speaker red terminal and black to one of amplifier’s primary speaker black terminals (not both)". (I just found out that this is NOT how you should connect it to a Class D amplifier - since their negative terminals most often are not connected to ground, but reference 10-15 V. For Class D, don't connect the black wire, just the two positive connections). The cable terminates in a Neutrik Speakon that clicks into place on the subwoofer. This ensures that the character of the bass from the main system is carried forward into the sub-bass. I have at times hooked a receiver to the sub as well, through the LFE input, but high level is a very good way to integrate the sub into any system. Just make sure that the sub "couples" with the room properly, to make the most of it. Placement in corners is recommended - and using two subwoofers is of course even better. I cross over to the sub way below 100 Hz, so it's not a problem using just one. Many subwoofers have two sets of regular speaker terminals for high level connection, in which case you just run two separate, regular speaker cables to it. The Strata 5 has 10 kOhms input impedance - gives 7.993 Ohms in parallell with 8 Ohms. To even get to 7 Ohms in parallell, the high level input would have to be just 56 Ohms.
That's a Vintage Low-End Bummer !!!
Forgive me but I need to actually see it. Your explanation went right over my head.
Kevin Thomas You just put the speaker cable(left/right) into the high level input of the subwoofer, and then from the output from the subwoofer to your speakers. Many subwoofers both have low(LFE) and high level input.
I didnt understand it too!
@@dandiki connect your speakers to amp like normal. put speaker wires in the high level inputs on sub. connect the other end of the speaker wires from sub, to left and right speakers. done.
@@cougias pardon my ignorance but then we have 4 cables from the subwoofer to the speakers. Right?
@@gonzaljevic 4 from subwoofer, 2 to each main speaker yes
Easy 😀Always done it that way.
My A & B speakers sit right next to one another. If you like the way your system sounds buy another set of the same exact speakers and put them right next to the originals. Even with the same power divided up between them you will be shocked on how good it sounds.
Una imagen vale mas que mil palabras!!!!
Of course, if you have a subwoofer that isn't powered, you could buy a subwoofer amplifier (I use a Dayton sa230. It is reasonably priced and handles the low end crossover duties.)
if the sub doesn't have high level inputs and the amp doesn't have a pre out, could I get a high to low level converter or will these cheap converters degrade sound quality?
If your amp has a record out you can use this to have your sub connected (but you won't be able to control its volume through the amp; only from the sub's gain knob)
@@georgeboubous8318 yeah, but that's stupid. I don't have a sub yet but I think it's better to get one with high level in then. I probably go for a rel tzero
@Fat Rat I don't remember the time of turning the record over because I wasn't born at this time.
But adjusting the sub to fit the output of the amp everytime I change volume is a bit annoying since I have to find the correct adjustment every single time.
@Fat Rat it's just stupid to do that procedure, it's like having to adjust the left and right channel seperatly. Nobody would want to do that
@Fat Rat why would anyone want things to be inconvenient? The inconvenience is not adding anything special to my listening experience
Always knew the input was high impedance but never thought to hook it up parallel! Duh! Thanks
so i dont need line converter?
You'll only require a line converter if the sub has no high-level input. There's nothing wrong or anti-audiophile about the high level input, it's just seems most folks do it wrong by using the high level output back to their main speakers instead of properly running two sets of wires. The high level out is just a simplistic method for lay consumers, but not audiophiles.
thank you i got it now 👍
a subwoofer with a HI-level input such as a REL. I have two of them. Easy connection at the speaker terminals. Job done. Plenty of diagrams on the net, just search. Or leave a comment with an e-mail and I'll send you what I have with pleasure. XXXXX. Paul, can I send you what I have for your review??
But unfortunately this way your speakers still get the full range signal. It's best to cut the frequency of the speakers off just above their roll-off point. Like at around 60hz or so, then pass that to sub. You can do this with bass management, some subs have RCA inputs and outputs that will cut out 80hz or so, or subs with speaker wire in and out to the speakers.
@@brydon10 I was wondering about that can you run from preout through the sub and back to the power stage? with rca of course. So that the sub takes out those frequencies and leaves the rest
@@sebastianvanderwolf6500 Yep, that's pretty much exactly what it was designed to do. I encourage you to try running the speakers full range as well though. Usually it is easier to integrate the subwoofer that way. It seems most "audiophiles" do it this way.
@@brydon10👍 thank you for the advice
I thought I ran my main speakers on A and subs on B.
Paul seems to be confused about A and B outs. On most receivers the A and B outs can play at the same time so one can be used to output the signal to the sub.
@@trog69 Seems you are confused because he said you don't need A + B outputs. You only need one to connect a sub via high level. But you CAN use the B output for the sub alone if you want to.
@@Oystein87 In that case the impedance of the powered SUB also has to be taken into account, right? So if the amp is only rated for 8 ohm with TWO pairs of speakers running, (A and B both on), and if the speakers are 6 ohm, and the sub is...IDK, 1 ohm, the total impedance drops to 5 ohm, right? But the amp is only rated for 8 ohm with TWO pairs of speakers.... what to do in that case?
@@shrimpu No, impedance on the sub does not matter since it has it's own amp... The extra speaker cables are only to send the signal to the sub amps high level inputs.
The subwoofer itself (usually a 4ohm driver) is driven by the subs internal amp.. So the main amp should not experience any extra load because of that..
And no amp is really just "rated" for X amount of ohms...
All normal amps handle 4ohms and up with no issues.
The higher impedance the easier for the amp because higher ohms just gives lower power output.
Problem starts when loads het down to 2ohms or lower.. Then some amps can get fried if they are driven too hard.
Bonus fact: An amp messured to 100w @ 8ohms should be 200w @ 4ohms IF it is properly built with a big enough power supply. If the power supply is too small it will not double the power output at half the ohms as it should. Good amps are built to double the power. But sadly most amps output is messured at 6 or 8ohms @ 1kHz and 1 or 2 channels driven instead of 20-20.000Hz on all channels driven at various loads. So watts on amps are very often rated to be a much higher watt than it actually can deliver. I rather know how big the power supply is and if it is class A, AB or D etc and then I can just calculate what it actually truly can deliver. Class AB looses about 40-50% in heat so to give out 100w it MUST have about 200w power supply or even karger.
I have had amps at proper rated 50w that litteraly beat the living shit of a fake messured 100w amp because the wannabe 100w amp did not physicly have a big enough power supply to deliver anything close to 100w continous output.
@@Oystein87 Thanks so much. Totally disregarded the internal amp of an ACTIVE sub. (This is why I shouldn't post after a night shift)
So in my case I think I am safe either way: Kenwood KA 7100 rated 65 wpc @ 8 ohms (20 - 20k Hz both channels driven), "REAL" watts. Not sure if it actually doubles the WPC at 4 ohms, but it has a solid rep.
Only thing I find annoying all the cable salad running from amp to sub and sub to amp.... but I don't think it will result in any audible reduction of actual SQ.
The subwoofer is kenwood kfc w3010 that I have for my car.
Paul it's pronounced "Iss-a-kwah" thanks from Seattle.
as I understood the question was about passive sub
3:06
Don't you mean to say "run a jumper FROM the speaker level OUTPUTS of the subwoofer" ???
Well, maybe. Some subwoofers have crossovers and speaker level outputs so would connect from the sub.
Paul was not talking about this type of sub.
😅 good video but no diagram or tutorial so I'm still wondering how to do it😢
The best way is with a Y-splitter on the low level outs.
Unfortunately most older receivers only have a low level output for tape recording which like a pre out is fixed volume so you would go nuts constantly adjusting the sub amp volume.
yeah if its a audio signal with rca. if its surround sound you wont get more audio from it , since the LFE doesent carry any audio
2:54 don't just tell, show us.
agree.
Why no demonstration, blue print Please
I sympathise with that caller to Scott - the audiophile is a lonely hunter. I used to visit my local dealer back in the day on Saturdays - coffee, chats, demos. Sadly no longer around. Always wondered about connection a sub. Thanks Paul.
Seriously, what is he saying? I listened 5 times. Is he just coming out of the receiver > into the subwoofer speaker line inputs > then out of the subwoofer line outputs > to the front left & right Loudspeakers? Just a loop: out of receiver... into sub...out sub....to speakers? Is this right?
This article I found confirms: Method 4: Use speaker wires to connect the subwoofer to the receiver
Again, there is no preamp output on your receiver; you may use your subwoofer like a speaker. Run speaker wires to join the subwoofer to the receiver. Connect it to the front right and left speaker terminals of the receiver. Then, connect those front left & right speakers to the speaker terminal of the subwoofer. Usually, the subwoofers available in the market come with the speaker-level facilities. Still, you should check before you purchase yours.
Why don't you teach with a diagram or with a receiver
the theory is nice, but the graphics teach too ..
and I was left without knowing how to connect my Bose acoustimass7 in my Kenwood
cheers
i thought you can use push and pull crossover. like the one on bose acoustimas 5
this video would be 10x more helpful if he actually did it instead of standing around talking about it...
I agree this helps me nowhere
This reinforces information I got from a SkyLab video. Use your brain & surf around, don't complain.
Great video but yeah I learned better when I see things also but it's great that he did the video.
The detail I'm missing is whether the questioner actually has an *active* subwoofer...
I'm more of a visual learner.
if he have around 45kOhm, then its an active subwoofer.. passive subwoofers have 2, 4, 8 or 16 (or whatever ohm)
God bless you Paul
Well you can use the A&B and come out jointly, I think he wants to turn the subwoofer on and off so use it AB,
I think better is to connect the main speakers wires to the subwoofer just having the one speaker wires to the subwoofer and another set of wires to the speakers not sure it's good idea having two sets of Wires running in parallel a lot of interference could be happening impedance capacitance issues.
Phone PS audio for your audio counselling lol
I run from amp to sub then to speakers as per manual, I do have the option of coax from preamp to sub and have tried but "seems" best sounding with first option, coax to sub maybe best for AV but sure others disagree of course and all good
I don’t think a 24 year old receiver qualify to be vintage. The Kenwood 105 VR was produced in 1998, its classic not vintage. Classic to start at 20 years an vintage to start at 40 years. Antiques start at 100 years, does anyone know an antique person?
Be careful using the "B" speaker outputs with a sub's high-level input -- some of those old amps and receivers establish a *series* connection when "A+B" is selected!
Most
if they go in series/parallell , they often write "A or B 4 ohm to 8 ohm, A+B 8 to 16 ohm" or similar values.
What’s the downside of the series connection that an old receiver might establish when using both A and B at the same time?
@@josephtibbs If the amp/rcvr is not rated for low impedance speakers (like 4 ohm with A+B: this should be stated next to speaker connections on most amps), the total impedance with speakers and sub (A+B) can drop to a level that the amp cannot handle with 2 pairs (A+B at the same time (it will "think" the sub is a second set of speakers and most will only handle 8 ohm loads combined with A+B selected). So if the combined impedance from A speakers and B speakers (in this case B sub) drops below 8...say to 5 ohm the amp might have trouble putting out that much current.
@@shrimpu Thanks for the reply! In my case, I have a late 1970s Yamaha CR820, with Klipsch Hersey IV speakers on A and a modern Emotiva powered subwoofer on B. Similiar to what @backstab86 said above, my Yamaha says 4-16 ohms for A or B, or 8-16 ohms for A+B. Since my Kilpsch speakers are 8 ohm and the impedence of the sub is pretty high (from what I understand), I think the receiver should be OK powering both. What are your thoughts?
Paul,
That story of your son sorta highlights the importance of this crazy nitch community. I can relate to exactly what he is saying with regards for folks around him not into listening to him talk about audio. I talk and try to spread the gospel but I'm not sure my listeners are really engaged with what I'm saying and just want me to stop talking.lol. when your talking and all your getting is head nodding, and short replys or passing out my headphone rig to show off and one person barely even puts it's on their head to give you a nice that sounds good reply. So I can see where that customer wanted to talk to your son. I have been guilty of taking up dealers (hardly any left) time talking audio just to talk about audio but respecting he has a job selling gear and doing home installs. Perhaps it's time to go to some hifi shows like rocky Mountain fest or others in the future to talk audio or come visit ps audio and talk shop with employees there😀 be dangerous living near ps audio as I would become such a frequent visitor they would just offer me a job application 😀
tony cudnt agree more with your comment
this guy is something... take folks on a wild goose chase bla bla bla ,never answer the question asked
jeez...
Facke reyali
It’s not so ideal to have your side speakers produce or trying to produce the same sub bass as your subwoofer. It will waste a lot of power, make more distortion, limit how loud you can play and potentially cause some frequency response issues. Your side speakers should have a high-pass filter matching the low-pass filter characteristics of your subwoofer. That’s better done on a line level than on a power signal level also.
exactly, and it amazes me he never mentioned that issue ???
poserwannabe Yes, actually what’s the point of adding a subwoofer to make some clean sub bass and you have some small woofers in your side speakers creating a lot of distortion around 60Hz totally ruining the experience when you play loud?
The hard part is integrating a sub seamlessly with your speakers.
Method 4: Use speaker wires to connect the subwoofer to the receiver
Again, there is no preamp output on your receiver; you may use your subwoofer like a speaker. Run speaker wires to join the subwoofer to the receiver. Connect it to the front right and left speaker terminals of the receiver. Then, connect those front left & right speakers to the speaker terminal of the subwoofer. Usually, the subwoofers available in the market come with the speaker-level facilities. Still, you should check before you purchase yours.
Never use the high-level output on a powered sub except to daisy chain 2 or more identical subs together. High level outputs are just wired parallel to the input, meaning it's just a chunk of metal in the signal path to your speaker, and running 2 sets of wires removes that chunk of metal from the path.
Forget subwoofers and get on with your life of good music.
well i for one can't have "life of good music" without MULTIPLE high powered subs........pfffft
@@poserwanabe Two words for you. gorilla/guerilla music lol Have a nice UFO day.
@@victorbaker4585 🤣😆😂
I see no point in hooking a sub to a vintage 2 channel stereo in the first place. A vintage stereo receiver is capable of driving two pairs of speakers. Left and Right stereo audio driving your "A" pair of speakers. Left and Right stereo audio driving your "B" pair of speakers. You have four woofers supplying bass from the A and B speaker outputs, unless you're driving cheap full range speakers. Most people will be driving two pairs of 2-way speakers or 3-way speakers. Those four quality speakers will supply plenty of low frequency bass response. IMO adding a powered sub to a vintage 2 channel receiver is just over kill.
Because you're effectively bi-amping with the powered sub and reaping all the benefits. Yea, all personal preference. I think it's implied the guy's low freq needed improved.
It will only work if the subwoofer has a built in amplifier. A passive subwoofer will not work
please don't read the mail, so boring. You are definitely an American.
If you were using good vintage speakers you would not need a subwoofer, home made speakers can be even better, good vintage and good homemade speakers can go down all the way that modern subwoofers can.
Sure, if they're enormous.
What crap did I just waste my time. !
Without a diagram (which you NEVER do for some bizarre reason) it's impossible to understand what you are suggesting.