Fixing a Bad Design with 3D Printing
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2022
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nice fix! especially the second revision.. One thing that really helped me grow was to consciously design in a way to avoid supports. It has two benefits, first, your prints are much nicer and second, you waste less plastic. Also, think about the orientation of your prints and how that translates to strength. The print is much stronger along horizontally, then vertically, so you still might run into layer separation issues, as the shaft exerts sideways force on the shaft holder. If you printed the holder upright, the part would be at least 2x stronger.
💯
Is there a way to bake your final product to avoid layer separation?
Great final design. Plastic and bolts combinations work well - they hold my Prusa together really well. I made the choice to go metric over imperial when I started 3D printing, and now I find it very easy to visualise design dimensions in printing, CNC and other home manufacturing.
Look how fast you are growing! Your videos keep old viewers and attract new ones too, you've gained 10 thousand subscribers in the last week! Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much, exciting times 😊❤️
Thing I like about your videos is that you actually show the entire end-to-end process, not just the final "good" version.
I think that CZcamsrs who do it the other way -- who only show the final build -- are discouraging people from trying. "Why can VideoPerson X do this in one try so easily? I'm a failure!"
...when realistically, they've done it like 20 times beforehand, failing at bits each time.
❤️❤️
I was already snickering a bit just before I saw the "Foreshadowing" pop up... I know how much pressure those lamps can apply at full horizontal extension and there just wasn't enough thickness for the job, torsional stresses can be such a pain! But you corrected the flaws pretty nicely in the second iteration! The real test will be how long it lasts under regular usage. You may still have to thicken the part a bit more or epoxy flat plates (maybe etched?) to the sides for additional rigidity. Also, as a US denizen and an engineer myself, I learned long ago how to swap between systems and am nearly as comfortable with metric as I am with SAE and getting better the more I 3D print...
Great channel, great content - thanks for creating. Only thing I would love to see is metric units - it's really great once you get used to it. Most products are designed in metric (even in the US) so there is a whole other understanding to small intentions the original designer had when also using metric to replicate parts.
This channel is criminally undersubbed
i just found your channel. i love how you show your entire modeling process and mistakes along with the final solution that solves the problem. i learned a lot and im looking forward to more of your videos.
Thank you!
Terrific video. I love whenever 3D printing solves a real world problem or makes a real world product better. Especially enjoy seeing your Fusion design work and problem solving iteration.
I'm watching all your videos, and I really like that you show the whole process from Fusion to the final print. well done :)
The tension I felt with all that foreshadowing was INTENSE 😂😂😂
I have a lamp with the same issue on my desk. I went with the simpler option of just drilling a hole in my desk for the lamp to sit in and then gluing several washers to the part that sticks out underneath the desk.
Hasn’t broken in 2 years of constant use! 🤞
Awesome! Yeah I had mine screwed into my desk for a while, but with all the filming that I do, I find myself wanting to movie it around pretty often (plus the drawer issue). Thanks for watching!
I like these kind of videos a lot. Its a f360 and design tutorial in one. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Watching you work with the 3D Printing software is crazy, you're amazing at what you do.
Thank you so much :)
Found you today and your channel is amazing!
Thank you so much!
Speaking of clamps. I don't know how many times I have tried to fix those stupid wire spring clamp lights with the loose reflectors. I end up drilling into a Pony Spring clamp and screwing down the original clamp to the better spring clamp. Over 40 years and the design has not changed. Ever. Now it is just made cheaper. I can hear the manufacturers saying 'Who cares if it doesn't work'
OMG! I had that same lamp and was plagued with the same problems. Thanks for the information, I’ll be fixing it soon.😸
I found this fascinating, but also way over my skillset. You're so clever.
Such an underrated channel, keep up the good work !
Great video and demonstration. Glad you showed the second version. Design is iterative. Mahalo for sharing! : )
For sure! Thanks for watching 😊
Maybe extend the tube of the lamp with a rod as long as the clamp and print a support bracket for the distal end of the bar - that should hold that parallel to the entire length of the clamp’s bar and stabilize it a lot. Also will reduce the twisting stress on the proximal bracket piece. Just a thought… great build and love the channel! With love and admiration all the way from South Africa from one maker to another 🇿🇦
Also - you are a gorgeous human - I always feel better about life when I’ve watched one of your videos - thank you for that and God bless!
This is what I love about using fusion and 3d printing. Work so hard on the first version and do everything we can to make it work, but then you can come back the next day redesign it and make a way better and efficient version.
When Microsoft promised the paperless office by introducing Word and printers in every office, the amount of paper wasted tripled or more. (we used to type then correct our errors with tippex, then it became neater and just as quick to print another corrected copy).. I wonder if this is happening with 3d printing, we need a draft plastic we can recycle then a good quality plastic for final revisions.
PETG is easily recyclable!
@@MorleyKert True and honestly one of the safest in term of TVOC and HCHO. I test print everything in PETG and final print with PA6-CF/GF
i never realized just how invaluable calipers can be until i came across you channel
Great idea. I might need two of those.
Nice thought with the shell around the clamp. 🙂I´ll use that the next time too.
Great project! One thing that i like to do for alignment is create a 1.75mm hole in both parts and use a small piece of filament as alignment pin. This way you automatically get a flat surface from the splitting and you make use of those small bits of filaments that are too small to print with!
That's an awesome tip! Thanks for watching :)
Great video. I could see the weakness in the first version but was curious to see if it would work. Revision was perfect. Love watching your thought process as you use fusion.
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback, as always :)
Great Clamp Challenge Morley, very inception using a clamp to replace a clamp and failing to clamp the clamp in the first clamp so adding more clamp to the clamp for a successful clamp.
Love the way you present your workflow in Fusion 360 :)
Thank you!
My favorite kind of video, hope you have many more things to fix!
Short feedback about the audio, maybe it's just me, but I think the background music was a bit loud when you were talking at the same time.
I just found your channel in the yt recommendations and really love your editing style and your projects too. Watched a lot of your old videos - very entertaining! Keep going
Though, I have a question about your desk setup: Your monitor stand look pretty unique - did you make it your self? And ( I'm a curious person): can you tell me your monitor model - looks pretty good for engineering tasks?
Cheers
Thank you! I made that monitor stand in this video: czcams.com/video/x62yqa2WP6M/video.html
The monitor is a Samsung C32R500FHN
At 6:55 you say that we cant use the shell command, But the shell command can have the direction set to outside to do what you wanted! also at 4:40 you sketch 2 circles when IMO 1 circle and an offset would be easier to sketch. I enjoy comparing my design process to yours and seeing what I would do differently and the same. Good video 👍
Ooohhhh TIL! I don’t love the shell command for this sort of thing because it projects all of the complexities of the inside shape to the outside, where a simple box is sufficient. Thanks for watching! 😊❤️
Great solution and video bud!
Thanks man!
I have the exact same lamp! This will be useful!
Subscribed cause you show us how to design it in fusion360 compared to the other youtuber that doesn't teach but only show. Thank you!
It’s funny since I start watching Morley’s video’s I sort of understand the Imperial system better 😅 Keep up the good work, awesome educational and entertaining content.
Thank you so much!
I have exact same lamp and the same problem, thanks for the idea!
💯
I need to learn this 3d printing thing now.
Yes!
That is exactly how my microphone stand was for my desk.
👍Version 2 looks good!
You can make the cylinder a single piece connected to one side of the shell. Then just use a back "cover" to screw/glue/zip tie the shell to the clamp. That way you have one continuous piece of plastic surrounding the pin and clamp.
Thank you! That's a great idea.
It is also possible to make design without glue or bolts. Just make clamp upper part to fit into 3d printed part and additionally fix it on table. Hole for lamp will be on a side in this case, but actually it doesn't matter.
This is what I love about 3D printing, you get to try things out quickly and solve design flaws :) I think I'd have used ASA for even more stability. It'll be interesting how it will hold up to years of twisting and turning abuse :)
i wish you posted this 3 months ago. this lamp drove me crazy. sat in storage and donated it, figuring id get something else for my work desk...lol either way another great video.
Looks like you printed the piece with "Wall priority: Outer before inner". Not sure what its called in prusa slicer.
But printing inner walls first on pieces with overhangs like this make a huge difference
those lamps are great, I have a whole bunch of these. none of them have the original clamp, all of them have a wooden holder screwed to the wall. far easier to use.
So you know the vesa mounts that have single vertical arms that allow you to attach the monitor on basically a pole. Well the arms that attach to that if you remove the vesa mount have a nice hole in them which is almost the perfect size for sliding in a. A mic arm, This lamp, a camera or webcam mount. So i basically widen the whole so the insertion is deeper then you drill a tiny hole near the bottom end for putting a clip through it. Now your mic or lamp is elevated above your monitor and gives you massive range of mobility.
just one word : bravo
Brilliant!
Thank you!
another inspiring video.. keep it up mate👍
a question, there is any chance that you can organise a f360 tutorial?
i mean look like you know it so well and you run it like a lamborghini.
i run it like an old school bus, just saying😂
I would love to see a fusion tutorial about using offset planes. I have a general idea how they work, but every video I see online kind of flies through their use
Construction planes in general are super useful! Maybe I'll make a video about that.
yes! watching him fly through the design process always has my jaw on the floor realizing im doing things way slower and more janky. very inspiring for me to learn new techniques
you could print a few of those mounts, or similar, but with bases and have those in spots you usually have the lamp
True!
Wow you should make your own video on how to use that software. You make it look easy
Was thinking you should try and put a piece of copper pipe to act as a bushing in the cylindrical piece and that will allow the print to clamp down tightly around it and won't risk the 3d print wearing out as well
for more part strenth, you could attempt to weld the pieces together with an old soldering iron
If you’re going to continue putting yourself in the bottom left-hand corner of fusion when you edit your video, then to fix the issue of you pointing the wrong way, just remind yourself to point to the window. Tell yourself the window is fusion 360 and then you’ll point to the right direction. Or you can put your clip to the right side of the screen when you edit and then you would be pointing the right direction
With regards to keeping track of the extrusion width. You should give the new (currently alpha) version of PrusaSlicer a try. It varies the amount extruded so you can get pretty much any layer height and any extrusion width by varying the amount extruded.
Try a CNC Metal Part for the same clamp design...from any machine shop...IT would be a GEM...!
This is another great example of a print where adding more perimeters would have likely given you better results than increasing the infill. Perimeters are printed as one continuous line, so they're much stronger than even 100% infill.
Love your vids Morley. Kinda looks like that connection to the clamp was supposed to be pinned based on the cut away on the shaft that gets inserted. Wonder why they didn't build that in lol.
CZcams algo ab to blow this video up! Got this on my front page posted one hour ago.
💯❤️
I have the same lamp with the same ugly clamp and I am thinking for a more robust sollution. But if you going to use this sort of carpenters clamp, better use some metal tube attached to the clamp. 3D printed parts of that kind has a tendency to break easily under leverige. Creality CR-10 Smart here.
honestly think you could have print the whole piece upside down. even without any supports..
it happened to me that i was using a lot of supports on things and turns out. my printer was extremely capable of doing even 85 degre horizontal printing with out trouble. obviously the bigger the gap the possibility of problems go up but. that piece. could have been done. just one piece. upside down. no need for epoxy, thats my opinion.
i love your channel. great work man
Nice job buddy
Could you make a series of videos where redesign cases of ugly electronic products. Sometimes I discover products functionally but have an unattractive design.
I have that same IKEA lamp on my work desk for years now and it never moved... for some reason however only the NA version has the switch on the top.. everywhere else it seems to be at the cord and you can't reach the switch because it is under the desk... I used to have a real TOLOMEO light, which this is kind of a copy of. The original is a bit better in every way- but it also costs 20x as much
i have this exact same lamp and i also have this problem, the lamp is ok but the fact that it can not go very low because of the springs pulling back really holds it off
You can use the shell command to the outside note by your the way
pro tip for remembering which side to point to when you're moving over to Fusion360: you're running it on Windows, point to your window!
Hahahaha that is fantastic!
Never had this issue with petg on my ender 3, even with almost 90° overhangs
Awesome job! Sorry you will lose the host challenge because your clamp broke 🤣🤣
Haha we will see
What a good idea.
Oh shooot I didn’t even realize skillshare was the sponsor of this video when I talked about them in my last comment. You gotta tell them to bring back monthly memberships. Not everybody has money sitting around to pay for a year upfront but still want to learn things. They’re like the only company that forces yearly subscriptions without any option for any monthly plans. Any other place has some sort of monthly plan, even if it’s a little more in the long run. Idc if you offer me 50% off, I still don’t have 70 bucks floating around to throw at some subscription
Hm, i fixed this problem many years ago by drilling a 12mm hole in my desk and put the lamp in the hole.
I also made a Big version of this lamp as a wall mounted lamp for my sofa table that i can pull in and out above my table.
When i add Google Drive Link to my Lamp my post keeps on getting removed for some reason...
Great content as always! I have a lamp like this and suffered the same problem, must give it a try!
To all the commenters please report those pesky messages that appears asking to follow some sites. Spam is the last thing we want to see here, right?
What graphicd card is good enough for 3d modeling and sculpting models for 3d printing in 2022?
new subscriber .. glued
Thank you!
Literally the first ever person I've seen use "freedom units" instead of standard metric units. Very unusual, and slightly confusing (to me, but of course ymmv).
Hello, what settings do you have in your slicer?
Interesting content. Meta question: does music really increase engagement? I find it so strange hearing you explain a problem very well, with a snare drum going on in the background.
i have the EXACT SAME lamp but with a different, more bulky clamp so i dont have this issue lol
Will you share the STL ?
I have the same issue with my lamp. Do you have a downloadable file for this print?
Bad dragon design?
awwwe. not what I'm looking for.
But still stayed at watched.
Thanks for sticking around! 😊❤️
Mix the epoxy on a piece of masking tape on your desk using a toothpick. Very little to no waste. You can use two peas worth of epoxy that way. pocket83 was the first one to show that afaik
I do that sometimes but I find that it doesn’t reduce the amount of waste, the epoxy just ends up spreading out
@@MorleyKert well you can collect the epoxy with the stick/toothpick. Anyway, use the way which works best for you
Just found your channel, subscribed and enjoying the videos. However, the background music in this one is way too loud in my view (especially as I’m partially deaf and it obscures your voice)
Thanks for watching! Good to know, i will fix that in future videos 😊
I broke a very expensive monitor whith such a cheap lamp from ikea. Cheap is expensive. I have an awesome designer lamp now and it is worth it !
"Cheap is expensive"... so true!
@@MorleyKert there's nothing as expensive as a cheap, used, German car
Is this your clamp challenge entry :)
It is!!
@@MorleyKert I missed the deadline this time but will do the next one.
@@makerofthingsunique There's a clamp challenge?!
Pls try super (CA) glue
What if my face is a bad design can we fix that. Lol
😂
canada e seus parafusos esquisitos...
Nice fusion360 skills.
Rookie mistake on version 1.
I have the same clamp for my microphone and it’s really bad.
You should make a replacement!😊
@@MorleyKert right!!
or you could just weld piece of pipe to the clamp.
That would be awesome if I had a welder! One day :)
oh hi thinkpad!
I want to learn fusion 360 sooo bad. Every time I open it I’m immediately intimidated and learn nothing. It’s a hard program to learn from scratch and all the tutorials either jump in like you already know what all the tools are and where everything is or they teach you to make a specific item you don’t really need without actually teaching you anything about how the program works and again where everything is and what they do. I even looked into signing up for Skillshare to see if they had a decent course I could learn it with but now they make you pay for a full year upfront or you can’t use it so that’s out of the question
If I were you I would sell that set there are a lot of people with that set up.. I have it.. how much for a set including hardware?
now build a lamp
based on your modelling process you should use Rhinoceros instead of fusion...it's very forgiving
Measuring the diameter of the lamp's peg to determine the ideal sized hole for the new base you're designing - when the perfect sized hole to measure is already there in the old base. ;)
Here's a tip for when you need to 3D print a square cornered hole for a precision fit onto a piece that has sharp, square corners. Mouse bites. In the corners, model a semi-circular 'bite' at the corner so that as the printer nozzle makes the turn the squeezed out filament will flow out and fill that in, leaving a sharp inside corner instead of a rounded one. The principle is similar to the Bell Gothic font used to print phone books. All the sharp inside corners have little notches so that when the ink bleeds on the cheap paper it fills in the notches and makes sharp corners.
Bell Gothic was my inspiration when I needed to model and print an often broken plastic bracket that snapped onto a rectangular metal tab, and had a square hole into which another plastic piece, with sharp corners, fit. I couldn't expect people using the bracket to repair their equipment to use a knife or sandpaper on things, the bracket had to be able to snap into place and fit with zero wobble. Before noon I received the broken part and the parts that the bracket mounted onto and fit into the bracket. Before 5 PM I had the new bracket modeled, critical fit subsection test parts printed (perfect fit first try!) and a complete new bracket and everything else mailed before 5 PM the same day.
0.087 inches vs 2.2mm....... why are you more comfortable with inches when it's really inaccurate and confusing!?
It's all just numbers at the end of the day! I grew up using inches, and they're not any less accurate than metric when you're using thousandths of an inch. I'll probably switch to metric one of these days :)
I always use metric for 3d printing as it is "base 10" and easy to calculate. Additionally, everything 3d print related...nozzles, filament and such is metric. No reason to complicate things by using two disparate measurement systems!!! If I need an item that is F-I-S based (Feet-Inches-Sixteenths), I start with the overall F-I-S, convert to metric and tweak in metric. Much Easier and More Consistent!!!😁👍🏻
I'll be revoking your Canadian card until you switch to mm there bud. Please turn in your government supplied maple syrup stash. Sorry.
@@gwemlins Send me *ALL* of Morley's forfeited Maple Syrup Stash if you don't mind! THANKS! 😁👍🏻
@@MorleyKert The STL format only "understands" one unit, millimeters. CAD that does US units properly for STL output will convert to mm. For CAD and 3D modeling software that doesn't... use metric. I use an old software for 3D, Caligari trueSpace 6.6. Doesn't matter if I use millimeters, centimeters, or meters in the program, they're all put into the STL as 1 unit = 1mm. So if I'm designing something tiny I can model it in meters to make it big enough to see on screen without having to zoom way in. If I change the model and world units, it doesn't matter, the STL output is the same. A bit buggy implementation of a file format works to my advantage. :)
The first time I tried to use trueSpace for 3D printing I used US units, and discovered that trueSpace does NOT properly convert to millimeters from US in STL output.
So why trueSpace? I've used it since version 2.0 for Windows so I got to be quite familiar with it and it's made to do solid "water tight" modeling, which is what is needed for STL and 3D printing. Why version 6.6? Because I never liked the major changes Caligari made to version 7.
Before Microsoft abandoned their Terraserver project and competing with Google Earth, they bought Caligari and trueSpace then gave the software away as a free download. With a bit of a look around the web, the free downloads can still be found, with both 6.6 and 7.x combined or the standalone 7.x versions. There's still an active trueSpace use community and many of the formerly commercial tSx (trueSpace extension) plugins have been made available free. These versions of trueSpace include the Lightworks render engine, which at the time cost more as a plugin for Lightwave than the full retail cost of trueSpace. Bargain!
Microsoft expected users of their competitor to Google Earth to use free trueSpace to populate their system with 3D stuff, as their answer to Google expecting people to use Sketchup to populate Google Earth with 3D stuff.
If only the rights to trueSpace could be bought from Microsoft to make it an open source project. Fix the remaining issues, such as how many 3D file formats (including STL) import with the object scaled down so the largest overall dimension of X, Y, or Z axis is exactly 8 of the currently selected units, or how it can export both VRML 1.0 and 2.0 but cannot import VRML 2.0. The workaround is to always save in its native COB and SCN formats *and* whatever other format you're doing. Make any changes to the native files then re-export.