In this update to my build project on Track of the Wolf's Bucks County flintlock rifle kit, we'll take a rough, sand cast trigger guard and get it cleaned up enough to inlet onto the rifle stock.
Thanks for letting me learn from you and avoid errors as I embark on making my own to Honor My 7 times Great Grandfather who took part in the Revolutionary war as a tribute to Him.
I am really enjoying these videos, thanks for sharing. I worked with copper and brass pipes, fitting them and cleaning them so I could solder them together. I found that sand cloth really was the best way to clean them, its rather rough somewhere between 60 and 80 grit, but it doesnt have a paper backing, its a mesh so the little copper and brass shavings could work free of the surface, a small piece of sand cloth lasted me a long time. just thought i would share. but you've done good work!
Very good tip on the fixture! I go in my shop once in a while and look at my TotW Brown Bess kit and wonder where to start, this will move me along. But Mike, you really need to get a stable bench! Mine is bolted to the wall using angle iron, it doesn't go anywhere.
The best tip is to be patient. Don't rush the work. Building a rifle is one big job made up of about 50 small jobs. I try to just concentrate on the small job at hand and work it until I'm 100% satisfied with it. Took me 50+ years to learn that...
While watching your most enjoyable videos I thought possibly for polishing the inside of the trigger guard and curves you could put the front and rear tangs of the trigger guard between two pieces of wood to enable you to work inside those areas. I don't know if the tangs would bend or not when polished but I think it would depend on how much pressure you apply. They are pretty short and thick so I would think you could certainly polish them without the tangs bending. I love firearms but have never done any of this as I just don't know the little tricks that you do such as building fixtures to hold the parts. But seeing you do this gives me thoughts of doing something similar sometime. Thanks for fine videos.
I like to tinker also and for the inside of your trigger guard get out the Dremel tool with a drum sander and grit of your choice and size,(diameter), of your choice and your off to the races.Thanks for the videos .One day, I will build a 1911!
If you're going to file a bevel on the front of the guard, you should probably follow suit and do it on the rear as well. The guard on my Lancaster build even has bevel flats on the bow over the trigger as well, though I don't necessarily think you'd have to do that. I do think it won't look right if you don't do the bevel on the rear tab too though.
well a flap wheel in a drill press is nice to work with, but a 1/4 inch piece of bar stock with a piece of rubber hose slid over it, then some double sided carpet tape then stick your sand paper to it, you can stick it then wrap the rest, tear off as neded, steel wool the same way
Thank you, I find your Videos extremely helpful. I'm doing some research and putting together an action plan. Before, I start my Muzzleloader project. This will be my first of many gun builds. I'm really fascinated history and guns. Do you have any recommendations for any additional resources that may be helpful?
Thanks for letting me learn from you and avoid errors as I embark on making my own to Honor My 7 times Great Grandfather who took part in the Revolutionary war as a tribute to Him.
that is a beutiful thing to do for his memorial
I am really enjoying these videos, thanks for sharing. I worked with copper and brass pipes, fitting them and cleaning them so I could solder them together. I found that sand cloth really was the best way to clean them, its rather rough somewhere between 60 and 80 grit, but it doesnt have a paper backing, its a mesh so the little copper and brass shavings could work free of the surface, a small piece of sand cloth lasted me a long time. just thought i would share. but you've done good work!
Yup. A little place called Etters, about half way between Harrisburg and York.
Very good tip on the fixture! I go in my shop once in a while and look at my TotW Brown Bess kit and wonder where to start, this will move me along. But Mike, you really need to get a stable bench! Mine is bolted to the wall using angle iron, it doesn't go anywhere.
Mine is also bolted to the wall...did it after this series was shot
Now I look forward to see the job done, test, and loads. Good job.
The best tip is to be patient. Don't rush the work. Building a rifle is one big job made up of about 50 small jobs. I try to just concentrate on the small job at hand and work it until I'm 100% satisfied with it.
Took me 50+ years to learn that...
That's great, advise!
Hey, I am new to the channel and I really like all the black powder videos. I wish I had the skill to tackle a job like this. Thanks for the channel!
I wish I had the skills too...but I tackle it anyway...LOL Welcome to the channel.
While watching your most enjoyable videos I thought possibly for polishing the inside of the trigger guard and curves you could put the front and rear tangs of the trigger guard between two pieces of wood to enable you to work inside those areas. I don't know if the tangs would bend or not when polished but I think it would depend on how much pressure you apply. They are pretty short and thick so I would think you could certainly polish them without the tangs bending. I love firearms but have never done any of this as I just don't know the little tricks that you do such as building fixtures to hold the parts. But seeing you do this gives me thoughts of doing something similar sometime. Thanks for fine videos.
Keep'um coming MB. Thank you
LOOK'N GOOD! LOTS OF WORK
looks pretty good to me Mike. keep it up!
will do
I like to tinker also and for the inside of your trigger guard get out the Dremel tool with a drum sander and grit of your choice and size,(diameter), of your choice and your off to the races.Thanks for the videos .One day, I will build a 1911!
I learned as an apprentice to polish at angles so that the next finer grit will make the previous grit scratch pattern disappear.
If you're going to file a bevel on the front of the guard, you should probably follow suit and do it on the rear as well. The guard on my Lancaster build even has bevel flats on the bow over the trigger as well, though I don't necessarily think you'd have to do that. I do think it won't look right if you don't do the bevel on the rear tab too though.
Before I file on brass trigger guards I aneale the brass . Providing it's copper / zinc alloy.
i was wondering the same thing, thanks for asking!
Beautiful work. I would love to tackle a project like this someday, but it looks pretty overwhelming.
well a flap wheel in a drill press is nice to work with, but a 1/4 inch piece of bar stock with a piece of rubber hose slid over it, then some double sided carpet tape then stick your sand paper to it, you can stick it then wrap the rest, tear off as neded, steel wool the same way
I know you don't like them but Dremel tools would work wonders on sanding hard to reach small areas like the trigger guard.
Dremel tool will make it much easier...
You could always put it into a brass tumbler for reloading.
Keep metal chips from clogging the teeth as quickly.
Thank you, I find your Videos extremely helpful. I'm doing some research and putting together an action plan. Before, I start my Muzzleloader project. This will be my first of many gun builds. I'm really fascinated history and guns. Do you have any recommendations for any additional resources that may be helpful?
Thomas Wrath xGet the book, Gunsmith of Grenville County
Hi Mike,
I'd just want to ask, why do you chalk the files?
You should invest in a steady worktable.
Why not use a dremel with a drum sander.
Why can't track of the Wolf just sell completed built guns? instead of selling expensive forged crude parts for the poor buyer to put together!
Track of the Wolf does sell completed guns, built by professionals and/or originals ...............................EXSPENSIVE!!!
yeah the cheepest non traditions rifle i saw was around 1400 dollars