How To Lower a Lawn Tractor as Low as Possible Pt. 10
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
- Welcome to part 10 of slamming the Murray riding lawn mower! In this video, we finish welding up the body, grind and sand the welds, inspect the belts and pulleys after the previous test drives, and make a repair on the hood. This is all in preparation for body filler, primer, and paint!
Although I do not plan on racing this lawn mower, I would consider this to be influenced heavily by race mower builds that I have seen. I may not have known exactly how to lower a riding lawn mower when this started, but I'm starting to get it figured out... I think
Tools used in this video:
- various hand tools
- HF 4-1/2” angle grinder with grinding, sanding, and cut-off wheels
- Miller Millermatic 135 110v mig welder with .035” flux core wire
- DeWalt 20v cordless drill
If anybody asks, I do not recommend anyone, under any circumstances, or for any reason, to ever replicate, or attempt to replicate, the shenanigans portrayed in this video. This was a test conducted in accordance with the strict supervisory procedures and protocols put forth by me, to me and for me with regard to me own safety... Or something like that
🤞😎 - Jak na to + styl
Great build, I was completely glued to the videos. Learned so much ,,thankyou
Thank you very much!
awesome build. i once put a v-twin 18hp on a little 6hp riding mower and different pulleys, was the dumbest thing ever. it just shredded belts for breakfast but damn it was fun.
Thank you! The fun makes it all worth it 😂
I don't know how you got such high production quality!
Thank you very much! Idk either 😂
Try using the glue that you use ultra violet light to harden it. It is worth the money. The I would apply your flat metal and use pop rivets and washers.
You would probably really appreciate flap disks for your angle grinder after going at it with a grinding disk if you've never used one. Flap wheels are the best! They make flap disks that wrap around the edge too to get to those tight corners. That and if you had a dynafile/belt sander
I did use flap discs on the grinder, but I was needing something smaller that removes about the same amount of material. A small belt sander may be the best option for the tight 90° spots
Consider a pair of full length skid Bars. Driver Error. Save that Hood! 1/4" backer rod for welding gaps. Take welding Lessons!!! Great Unit.
Thank you!
Great to see you back continuing the series....looking forward to the paint process next time!
I thought your recording and editing was great. I like how you talk us through what's going to happen before starting the work. You seem to have planed each part in advance and took each session to completion. I also thought making it a 10-part series was good, though that could have been the natural recording of each work session. You have limited storage on your iPhone, so it works well this way. I'm subscribed to CZcamsrs who make 2 and 3 hour videos, but they are usually interviews, which I often have to watch in sessions/time blocks.
I'm looking forward to seeing this go kart's sanding, painting, the surprise (seat?) you mentioned to me, finished and another joy ride. And maybe a new Mikuni carb? I have to wonder if you'll be pulling a Tim Taylor of Tool Time by putting an engine in a shopping cart? 🤣 Or am I giving you crazy ideas? 😜
I watched your channel video where you talk about yourself and your recording equipment. Hello, Jake. My name is Craig. I didn't notice sound quality issues in this series, but the lapel mic will certainly be more consistent, eliminating distance and directional issues. To "Normalize" the sound, you can download and use the free audio editing program, Audacity. It can do everything the crazy expensive Adobe audio editing programs can, including ripping audio from videos. Not that you'd want that, but if you did, you could edit it and align the audio to the video again with free video editing programs like Shotcut. There are a few free Open Source, GNU License audio and video programs available. Actually, if you can think of a program type, it's available free in Open Source. I use Audacity and Shotcut, but there are other free Open Source, GNU License video editing programs that are more advanced than Shotcut if you need more tools. Just google a procedure and include the "how to" question with "in Shotcut" at the end and you'll find your answers from previous questions' answers. I think Audacity is the best for audio and you'll find answered questions the same way. Plus both have downloadable Manuals, Help, FAQs, etc.
Thank you very much! The engine in the shopping cart is an idea I’ve had, but I have a very special shopping cart that would stand out from every other shopping kart before 😏
Thank you for the tips on open source software, I’m definitely going to check that out
@@wybarprojects Good luck with the Open Source software. Many are clones of Adobe programs, and programs that Adobe bought. Audacity started out as Cool Edit Pro by Syntrillium (spelling?) and the program layout and menus are still the same today, with added features. Adobe acquired Cool Edit Pro and expanded on it. Open Office replaces M$ Word. The layout and features are more of a combination of several brands of word processors, so it includes things that are not in Word.
If you're used to MS (or maybe Apple) programs, Open Source programs do some things in different ways. For instance, instead of "Save" when you're done, in Audacity and Shotcut, you Export the file with an option to keep changes to the original (which I don't do), but online tutorials and help files will teach you all of that. Audacity (and other Open Source audio editors) let you save the editing files separately so you can open the whole editing session and pick up from where left off, and you can then undo changes with the Undo system, just like when you started the editing session. That's why I don't keep changes to the original file.
This can be very handy. You lose the undo info in MS programs when you close the program. Other Open Source programs may have this feature, too, but I know Audacity has it.
I use the Hobart aerosol to prevent spatter. It's easy to use, and even works as a fire extinguisher.
Nice! I’ll give it a shot
awsome series man! Mower looks sick.
Thank you!! The details take the longest, but I’m pretty happy with how it’s going
This is an awesome build!! I’m hoping to do something similar with an old Ford mower that was given to me. I’m getting ideas and inspiration from you!! Thank you!!
Awesome! Thank you very much!!
What a great build and great production on the video. Really awesome, thanks for the entertainment.
Thank you very much!!
Hey bud I think your doing a hell of a job. I like the whole idea of what you're doing so keep up the good work my friend I'm looking forward to your next video.
Thank you very much!
That's one slick ride. I think I would have went with a brake pedal but with that said you did a awesome job. I have a pile of riding mowers and now I'm inspired to build my own.....
Thank you! I would prefer a brake pedal, it would just take some extra engineering
The anti spatter spray works pretty good, doesn’t prevent spatter but it makes easy clean up
Thank you! I’ll give it a shot
Second that advice, I’ve used it before and it definitely helps
In this case anti spatter spray is a bad idea. Because it's silicone it is a headache when you go to paint it and have to deal with fish eyes.
You can reduce the spatter with a silicone spray lube, that's what some of the purpose branded anti spatter sprays are. You don't want to use that on something you plan on painting.
Good job like it a lot need Good painting job keep it up A+
Thank you! I’m still working on the next video, but I got the body work finished and now I just need to do body filler and primer
Cool build! I just watched the whole series over the past couple of days. If you haven’t already painted it, you might consider putting another pair of hinges at the bend on the battery box lid. Same functionality but seems like it would be a lot easier to work with if the lid opened up all the way. And, you wouldn’t need a creeper to connect the battery 😆 and you could rivet some nylon strap like a cheap ratchet strap over the folds in the lid to cover up the joints. Keep up the great work!
Great tips, thank you very much!
I spent all day watching this series...other than filling the extra holes in the fenders, I would recommend adding some caster to the front beam... It will make the steering far less twitchy... also bronze bushings for the front knuckles... cheap, and removes a lot of the slop that the plastic ones give you. Google ATLTF for a forum on Lawn tractor mods... most of them do Mud mowers, but some are speed demons...
Great tips, thank you!!
Just a thought about the shifter/brake levers. If you could put a 90 into them, it should move the shifter out of your calf.
Pneumatic grinder with stick on 60 grit is what I use at my job for splatter on flat surfaces. It's high speed and flexible so you don't score the sheet metal. Also a high speed die grinder with those small flap drums works much better. For the welds, I use a heavy wire wheel or cup on my electric grinder (just make sure your sharp edges only contact the right side of the wheel, or hold on tight lol). Also, a pneumatic 1/2" belt grinder with the right belt will get everything the rest won't. I work in a fab shop and started out in paint prep, where I had to clean up all the welding mess. Don't overlook a 4" cold chisel for the job either. Usually don't even need a hammer for the bulk of the splatter. Very cool build!
Thank you very much! That’s a bunch of great information
When you weld, why not use a sacrificial "shield" just off the weld area, to catch most of the splatter? A Dremel-tool and some small grinding-wheels and grinding-stones could appease your OCD in tight spaces. Might even be able to just throw them into a high-speed drill.
Can't wait to see it filled and painted. But I wish you put the beveled edges for the seat area, before that part. You really look like you can use the leg-room, against those sharp edges.
For the shifter and brake handles and bars you could do a right angle to the outside on each one where they exit the body then just come up from there, that would put them outside your legs.
Cheap non stick pam cooking spray works well for keeping welding splatter from sticking.
Pam is an interesting thought. 🤔 it’s so cheap I’m going to have to try it
Check your owners manual for your welder, you might have your ground wrong. I have a Lincoln 185, I set it up neg ground, then read the manual. It called for pos ground for Flux core. I was blown away by the difference in weld splatter, almost zero with the correct settings. Cool build, got me eyeballing an old Murry I got kicking around.
Thank you! I’ll check out the manual
love the project! but what about the rear fenders? should have cut out the original openings and filled them in JMHO.
Thank you!
I was on the fence about deleting the old shifter slots but after making this video I was convinced to do just that! It’ll be in the next video before i do body filler.
did you put the same size tires/wheels on the front as what is on the back?
I’m sure I’m not the first but if you want to give that 4 wheeler a run do a pulley swap
I’ve done a swap on the rear and I do plan on doing the front in the future!
You need skid plate you might not know it but they can be pretty useful
Also new headlights
Great
Have you thought about filling in the old shifter slots on the fenders . Think it would look better. Also on the hood maybe angle iron or flat strap from headlights to steering console under the hood . Just found your channel today ,and subscribe. Cramdin all 10 episodes. The build looks great . And looking forward to more from your channel.
Awesome, thank you!!
I will be patching the old slots on the fenders, I was on the fence about it when I made this video
Thought the same thing on filling. Maybe use the louvers from the box
fill the old shifter /deck engagement holes in the fenders... it will go a long way toward stopping some of the flex on the outside of the fenders
I’ve been going back and forth on that and I think you just helped me get off the fence
I wonder what would happen if they swapped the motor pulley and a subtropical clutch And a sprocket with a chain that a way you can adjust the gearing and weld the axles together but what there is more 😮you can remove the governor🤔 I mean
Great looking build, got a question...what size are your back wheels and tires? They seem alot wider than the ones on my Murry
I’ll have to check tomorrow and get back to you.
It is a Widebody, so that may be why
The rear tires are 18x9.50-8
Ahh ok thanks...mine are 20 x 8 x 8
Stupid question probably, but you wouldn't happen to still have the templates/measurements for the body mods? I just absolutely love the way it looks!
Unfortunately I threw the cardboard away, but I can take some measurements and give you an idea
@WyBar Projects if your willing to do that, I'd greatly appreciate it!
Litterly just watched all the vids back to Sept on this build. I've had Husqvarna18.5 just sitting in shed with bad deck and decided to do slammed build so thanks for the great vids. Question,what size wheel and tire is on the front left bc it's what I'm looking for and looks bigger then the right side?
Thank you!!
I’ll have to check and see tomorrow. I know I had mismatched tire sizes in the earlier videos and I ended up getting the same diameter on there but I think they may be different widths
@@wybarprojects awesome I'd appreciate it.
@@ib12killu94 I currently have 16x6.50-8 on the front and in the beginning one of them was a 15x6.00-6
@@wybarprojects thanks 3, I was actually looking to get 16x6.6-8 but now stuck between those or a 4.8-8 that's 16 in diameter but skinny for more of a rat rod look.
@@ib12killu94 I’ve been on the lookout for a cheap set of wheel barrow tires for the same reason 😂
I got a Murray I’m working on rn I’m pretty much doing the exact same thing but a lil different
Nice! I’d love to see more of these out there
It’ll be a while before it’s done because I’m just working out of my yard and don’t have much tools but once it’s finished I’ll pin some pictures to the comments…. If I can actually do that.
@@bradrobinson9389 if you can’t attach them in comments, you can send them to me on ig or email them to wybarprojects@gmail.com
I’d love to see updates!
How many cc machines do you use?
My bad if you didn’t already weld the exes together it’s a one wheel peel😅
I’ve thought about welding the axle, but that’s a big pill to swallow for me because there’s no going back lol. And I don’t really need any more traction right now, it’s not even close to spinning a tire 😂
Hey I got a question why did you have to extend the tie rods because on my Murray the way im looking at it I shouldn’t have to
The bracket I made for the front axle makes the axle sit about 1.5-2” farther forward than it originally did
Alright because what I did was weld everything directly to the fame making it all one solid piece.thanks. Also I’m working on doing a compact clutch setup so I won’t have to cut a center channel on the body of the mower to keep more of the original look.
@@bradrobinson9389 nice!
What belt size did you end up using
I ended up staying with the 88”
@@wybarprojects ok thank you
What see video of it
Love it bro! Please for the love of all that is Holy, don’t put all this work into this cool piece and not remove and fill in the old shifter slots on each side of the fenders…..
Thank you!!! Lmao 😂 they’ve been filled! I’m almost done with the latest video
It’s me again the Murray project will no longer be continuing as I have totaled the mower just now
Noooooooooo!!
I’m glad your okay enough to come back here though 😂
In all seriousness, I hope you’re alright
Don’t worry I got another Murray yesterday 😁it’ll be a mud mower for now till I rebuild the front end on the old one and put it on the new one
@@bradrobinson9389 ayyyyy the show goes on!