Refinish a Chibson with a rattle can
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- In this episode I use Nitor laque to refinish my Goldtop Chibson. See links below.
Enjoy!
Supplier:
ravlundahantve...
Product:
nitorlack.com/
I use a 2000 grid sandpaper with water and soap. And Sonex rubbing and polishing.
I use 500 grit for my final sanding and use a tack cloth to remove any fine particles, I use a micro fibre cloth and naptha before the tack cloth and it looks particle free at that stage, you would be amazed how much the tack cloth picks up, without this those particles would be in the colour finish.
I never spray in the same area I have been sanding in, I use a camping toilet tent as a spray booth outside, I can hang the guitar in there, I also warm up the nitro in warm water before shaking and follow the instructions for distance when spraying, this is important as any larger particles of nitro will drop before landing on the body.
That´s really good pointers. Thanks for that! :)
Looks great! No need to sand between clear coats on nitro however. Nitrocelluslose layers melt together. Only sand if you have a blob or dust you need to get out. After that, 2 week cure minimum then sand and polish.
Great pointers, thanks man!
I think people underestimate how crucial it is to tape off a guitar and or car before you paint. Proper technique is the difference between a diy and professional paint job. Everything looks great except the binding could be improved. Overall its a good job I ran into the same issue on my first set of pinstripes. Keep it up
Your absolutely right! Doing a proper ground job is crucial for a good result. I messed up a bit, I know, but my focus was on the paint. 😊
@@TheworldofMattias you did a great job!
Thanks man!
I do rattle can finishes all the time. If done right, no one can tell the difference between mine and an suto show quality finish.
I had an old honda CM 200 that i fixed up, painted the tank and side covers in a dark cherry glitter, high closs finish.
Did all the ding repairs, primed it eith acid etch, then high build, sanded it all down to a 400 grit finish, then gave it a good base coat of black (engine color) then laid town some red Glitter from ACE haedware. I followed that with red anodizing wheel paint (duplicolor), 6 coats to get tge hue of the original reddish maroon honda metallic) after that, I topped it off with 20 coats of gloss clear wheel paint (Duplicolor) waited three weeks for it to cure and shrink properly, then sanded it smooth starting with 800 grit graduating through 100 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit, 2500 grit, and the final 3000 grit sponge block. Polished it off with polidhing compound, then scratch out, just to get the best gloss i could. The final touch was cleaning with wax remover, then adding a ceramic voating.
It looked like a million bucks fron a foot away, and you could recognize the 70s style glitter from half a mile away, I still have the bike 10 years later.
I have had several requsts to do other bikes, but i have had health issues, surgeries, and a pacemaker since then, and had to decline.
Wow, that´s great to hear! :) Hope you´re feeling better soon!
You can get the same quality paint in a rattle can, but it's kind of expensive. I think a gun is easier, but with multiple coats there's too much clean up for such a small area.
@@qua7771 actually, I have 2 HVLP guns, an HVLP rig, a compressor, and an air gun, and I work with both setups and rattle cans. As for the cost, reducer, acetone, and pretty much anything you use to clean your guns properly is expensive, but you just throw away the rattle can, and the rattle can does not have as much over spray, so I don't understand how you figure that the cleanup is more work, especially when dealing with small projects like guitars or motorcycle tanks and covers. The only part of the job that you could say would be more of a mess is the glitter paint, but I have done glitter with both a gun and rattle cans, and even then, the glitter is way worse from a spray gun, it goes everywhere. I did my glitter work in an unused room, on newspaper, and the mess only put a little glitter off the paper, and that swept up with a broom.
On the jobs I did, it was almost as expensive as the automotive finish products, but when you figure in the cost of cleaning the guns, it still came out to be a little less.
Would I paint a whole car with rattle cans, no, but smaller projects, absolutely unless I was doing it for a customer who specified other products.
@@douglaspage2398 I usually use nitro, and it takes a dozen coats at least. A different process than poly anyway. I used Prevel sprayers on a few.
If you ever do that again, fist spray 1 or 2 coats of sanding sealer (primer) then without sanding aply the pore filler (diluted in water for a milky consistency) after aplying it wait 10 minites and clean of the rest with a wet cloth. Then sand lightly and then you can spray the color and cleat coats.
Great advice, I’ll keep that in mind! 🤘🎸
hey bro great job. Generally grain filler is not applied to maple, since it's not as porous as mahogany and other "soft" woods like poplar or alder.
Yes, you are right! But I think my cap is mahogany, or something similar. Defenitley not maple, much to porous.
I'm buying Nitor Lack directly from nitorlack Spain
The most difficult thing of this process is waiting the varnish to dry 😊 especially if it's your #1 guitar.
Hälsningar från Slovenien 👍😊
Hah, I totally agree! :)
Gibson Les Pauls and even these copycat guitars have a mahogany body and neck with a carved maple top "cap". Be careful using a metal scraper with a straight edge and sharp corners on a top with round contours. The corners of the putty knife can dig into the wood and leave deep scratches in the wood. I would apply the filler with a plastic spatula.
You are correct sir! However, I managed to get away with it. But plastic would be better! 🤘😊
@@TheworldofMattias The end result was great and that's what counts.
Gibsons standards may have fijian mahogany now if it's not african. But the chibsons with luck maybe okoume. Normaly meranti and palaquium. For african mahogany you would need to pay extra. And the quality it's not the best, very few will even know that okoume is not african mahogany. (Because it comes from africa too). 15 years ago they did had african mahogany and sapele but only on small custom runs. Why do I know this? Cos I email every Chinese diy kit manufactor and chibson seller. Even IYV from vietnam.
Personally myself I would have used an old credit card to the remove the filler
That’s a really good idea!
Good job! However, I would have closed the holes of the bridge bushings and then drilled and inserted the pins for the bridge, once painted it would have looked truly relic, I think they look better, but this is my humble opinion.
I thought about that and maybe I do it on another guitar. I agree, it looks better!
I thought the grain filler would be for the mahogany not the cap.😮
The cap is mahogany. 🤘
Great job, the guitar looks fantastic. I Can’t wait to see the finish cracks appearing ☘️
Thanks! Yup, its gonna be a long two weeks 😂🎸
Great idea! cool video
Thanks man! 🤘🎸
Impressive result, nice!
Thanks man!
Great video.
Now I see what you've been up to this past week.
Yes, these videos takes a long time to make. The unboxing vids are easier and only takes one day 😂🙏
It looks very nice! You may have inspired me to do the same to my chibson goldtop, the Chiba goldtop isn’t close to the Gibson color…..
Go for it, it’s great fun! Good luck! 🤘🎸
Excellent video!
Thanks man! 🙏🎸
Great work Mattias! Gold paint is a tuff paint to work with the color gold and the color penny i struggle with the most painting lol" Awesome video! i cant wait to see you do the relic on her after it cures
Thanks Elvis! 🤘🎸
Great job, that color looks great
Thanks man!
Thanks for tip on Picky Parts!
No probs! I was glad to find them and they seems like really great people. I will use them for my next project as well, my telecaster is getting new paint :)
i hope you try the cracking finish!
Don´t worry, I will! :)
Oi, I have a problem with my Chibson SG, I don't know if you have it as well but, the G and B strings are catastrophically unstable, even with the real Grovers that I put on it, a light bend can drop the strings a half step or an entire note, maybe is the nut, maybe is the neck angle, I don't know.
Hmm, that sounds strange. I know that the nut can be a problem when it comes to intonation, but not if the string goes out of tune. The neck should effect all of the strings. I don´t know man. Start with changing out one thing at the time. I would start with the nut. Good luck!
Use a mechanical pencil to mark in the string slots of the nut. If that doesn't help, you'll need to file the nut slots. Sounds like the strings aren't able to slide back through the slots after your bends. Also, did you change the strings? Could be crappy strings
I'm not a big fan of fake relicing. I really like the Finish you have their it looks Factory new. That's how I like my guitars. But my choice is not for everybody
I’ve tried to relic it but not with any great result. I think my clear coat is to thin. Looks like it’s gonna stay new looking! 😊 I like it as well, I will relic another guitar instead. You try and fail and learn! 🎸🤘
@@TheworldofMattias
That's what I do too with all my projects. Most are successful but I've had some failures. But even the successful ones I've learned something from everyone
@@2bikemikesguitartopics145 And that’s the fun of it! 😊
One heck of a good job, enjoy.
Thanks man!
Next you should tackle those mother of toilet seat inlays lol
Try some genuine cellulose nitrate, manufactured by Mazzucchelli in the original Italian factory that supplied Gibson in the late 50's.
That sounds hard and expensive… 😅
Great job!!
Thanks man! 🤘
Dude you put a very nice finish on there!!!wow I wouldn't relic it,but I know you have a other gold top already
Thanks! Yeah, it turned out great. But I really want to test out the cracking thing so I will do it. If it doesn´t work I have enough paint to start over :)
@@TheworldofMattias hey,I wonder if yours will fade and get the greenish tint like all the ones from the 50s?I think they had copper in the paint back then or something.either way that paint job was amazing
The paint I used is called aged Goldtop so I think it should be the right color from the get go. The sell a color called goldtop, wich is the modern color. With that said, it is nitro paint so I guess I’ll age
@@TheworldofMattias it's definitely the right tone of gold for sure
Looking good!
Thanks man! 🤘🎸
Hope you're feeling better!
Good job! I just finished watching.,very clean and nice,
I would enjoy it for awhile before tossing it in the icebox, not sure about that and how it would affect the neck? It’s pretty nice as it is.
Thanks man! Yeah, I thought of leaving it as it is but I want to follow through on my project. 🙏🤘
Good job !
Thanks man!
Soap and water? Freezer?
Yes and yes 😊
Nice one! I received mine this week, I also uploaded a video
Thanks! You did? Can you please send a link?
@@TheworldofMattias Sure! czcams.com/video/29ENRTLsFfQ/video.html
That’s great! I don’t know spanish but the guitar looks really good! A little bit like my next Chibby. Keep on rocking! 🤘🎸
Mycket Bra
Tack herr Silver!