michael lanphier That’s awesome news and thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment michael...Glad the video helped... Brake problems are definitely annoying and it’s always good to get the vehicle back on the road soon with good brakes and at an affordable price too haha! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again michael 😎👍
Hi, watched the video and read through some comments and see that you appreciate details when people ask a question - understandable! So here's the quick background... 2003 Chevy Tracker. Bought a year ago and a week later had a breakline blowout. Not wanting to take any chances, I had all lines and hoses replaced. A couple days ago, started the car, applied the brakes before shifting it into gear - pedal hard for maybe half a second, then gave, and acted normal. Drove and braked fine during a 10 mile trip home. The following morning, checked the fluid level and found it was just above the minimum line. Filled it to the maximum line. Brakes continued to act fine for the next couple days, then this morning did the same thing, though not quite as hard as the first time. Brake fluid level does not appear to have dropped at all. In both cases the brakes acted perfectly fine after the initial hardness. With the vehicle running (but naturally not in gear, lol!), I weighted the brake pedal all the way down and had a long hard look underneath... no sign of a leak, and no wet spots after moving the car. I did have a smoke test done a month or two before it happened the first time, and I know the smoke machine was hooked up to the vacuum brake booster hose during that. That's everything I can think of in terms of work done that could affect the brakes. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Ghost Thanks for checking out the video & sharing your experience Ghost! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎 It can be a few different things... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Hi Michael! Finally someone who speaks slowly and clearly. LOL My 99 4Runner has been having intermittent hard press, difficult to stop, stiff pedal braking, while other times it is fine. Do you think that would more than likely be the check valve or the booster? That booster is $300-$400! Yikes! Thanks for your very informative videos! Mike
Thanks for sharing this. I have exactly the same symptoms on my 2007 Jeep. I’m going to replace the entire booster and master cylinder plus flush the fluid. It’s got 207k miles so thinking it’s about time anyway. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks for watching & that’s a great idea. We appreciate you sharing this. Looking forward to hearing back from you as you work through your project. Let us know if you have any questions. 😎👍🔧🔩
I have a question. My brake pedal is very hard to push and one of the calipers won’t release the pressure on the pads. Any idea what might be the problem? It’s a bran new caliper and replaced it because it was doing the exact same thing
@@nathanvega6281 if you have a JK with antilock brakes that could be something to look for. ABS module can set pressure to a single wheel if the sensors direct it to. Check for ABS codes. Might learn something that way.
Hi thanks for the video it saved me lot of money after to presses on my brake pedal it went hard and I couldn't press it I looked at my brake fluid and it seemed a little high so I took some out and it worked I can now press my brake pedal with out it going hard thanks
Tracy Johnso Awesome Awesome & Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment Tracy! We are glad the video helped. Let us know if you have any additional questions along the way we are here to help! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome thanks again Tracy! 😎👍🔧🔩
randy scheurer Very cool & we are happy the video helped. Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together. You can put that money towards something else. 😎👍🔧🔩
I had just replaced the coil pack on our 2003 Ford Windstar and then the brakes got hard ? I had no idea what had happened. After some thinking, I went out and looked at the check valve. The hose had, unbeknownst to me, gotten pulled off. Oddly, the engine ran worse after replacing the coil pack ! Yup...you guessed it ! Hooking up the vacuum line, stopping that vacuum leak, cured the missing problem too. ;
Dennis Wright That's awesome Dennis! 😀. Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment and experience. Brake problems are definitely annoying as you know haha. Glad you're back on the road and doing good. It's incredible how many parts are required to work in tune together at the same time to make a vehicle drive safely and efficiently. Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your notifications that would be awesome thanks again Dennis 😎👍
Hi, Michael Borders. I have a 2000 Hyundai Elantra, no ABS. The brakes are locking up intermittently in stop and go traffic for the last few months. So, I removed the front tires. The brake pads were locked solid and the rotor wont rotate at all. Front-driver side brake and wheel was blistering hot, front-passenger side was less hot. Back brakes were not hot. When the wheel/brake lock up, the brake pedal is stuck at the up position. Pressing with a lot of force wont make the brake pedal go down. The car drags. 15 minutes after turning the engine off, the brake pedal would go down a little bit. After 30 minutes everything becomes normal, the brake pedal goes down and up normally, the car drives normally afterwards for the rest of the day. The car also runs louder than before. Rotating the steering wheel to the right diminishes the road noise partially. People gave me a big list of things that could be causing this. After this locking issue started happening, over the last few months I replaced the following parts: 1. New brake pads and shoes on all 4 with new hardware. 2. New rubber brake hoses in both front brakes. 3. New wheel cylinders in both back brakes. 4. New caliper with piston assembly in front driver side. Passenger side is fine. 5. New wheel bearing in front driver side (there was visible smoke from front driver wheel when it first happened). Other bearings should be fine because there is no play or movement. 6. New cheap Chinese tires on all 4. 7. Bled a large bottle of new brake fluid through the system. None of the above fixed the problem. Any ideas what may me be causing this intermittent brake locking issue?
kmihmisc gmail Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment & experience. The information that you provided is awesome for me to help pinpoint the problem. Let’s figure this out! With several new parts, we can alleviate several parts that it can be...after reading over your comment, it leaves us with a few options. 1. Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) As you know, the MBC controls the flow of the Brake Fluid to & from all parts connected to system. In the event that the MBC begins to work intermittently or fail all together, you will notice a major down grade in Brake System performance such as you have. Replacing your MBC may help solve your issue. Below is a link to a video that shows more about the MBC czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html 2. Your Brake Booster Your Brake Booster is an extremely important part of your Brake System as well. It controls the tension/resistance of your peddle as uses vacuum lines to properly manage the pressure. When your brake booster becomes faulty you will experience symptoms such as yours. I would check into any leaks in Vacuum lines as well as any “Hissing” sound. You will also want to check your Check Valve. Also, I have 1 important question...are you having to add brake fluid to your reservoir on a regular basis & at the same time, you haven’t seen any leaks or can figure out where the fluid is going...?? I ask because if the answer is yes...your fluid is leaking into the Brake Booster & that will definitely need to be replaced! Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
@DIYwithMichaelBorders ik this is an old video as I'm having g same issue as person you replied too on civic...changed and put over a grand into brand new brake components and new MBC...no leaks or lost of fluids yet if it hot outside or I go to far my brakes still want to get hot and lock till it rest and cool off could it be check valve
2010 Nissan Altima started to have a very sensitive brakes. Meaning if you drive slow approaching a stop light and apply a light pressure it will 95% of the time grab quickly. I always need to pay attention to how much I'm pressing so I won't hit my head on the steering wheel. lol! New pads and rotors, good amount of brake fluid, no visible oil leak in the line at the wheels. I didn't check the master cylinder and booster yet for leaks. Most forums who has the same sensitive brakes never report solutions, they keep saying pad, rotors or oil leak. Hope you encounter this similar problem. Thanks
pricelessclips Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎 It can be a few different things... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
SpicePistols Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment...So True...in my new videos, I definitely changed the volume on the intro. Sorry about that. Hope the video helped. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
Mine ranger when I press the brakes it's really loose and has little to no brakes I just replaced the lines and habe the booster out I just would like to find out why asap
jerry gades Thanks for checking out the video jerry! Besides the recent repairs, has there been any other repairs to the brake system in the last year? It’s possible that your Master Brake Cylinder “MBC” is beginning to fail. As you know, the MBC controls the proper flow & pressure of the brake fluid. Once the MCB begins to fail you will experience symptoms such as yours...loose and lazy pedal... It’s also possible that Booster is beginning to fail... by chance have you noticed your brake fluid level going down without experiencing or noticing any leaks underneath the vehicle? In the event that your brake fluid is mysteriously going down and disappearing and you can’t find any leaks...This could be an indication that your brake fluid has begun to leak into the poster which means your boosters family and you couldn’t experience symptoms such as yours. Keep me posted. Below is a link to a video that explains a little bit about MBC Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍 czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
Ok thanks my dad said he know how to check the master cylinder so I'll see if that's bad I just replaced the calipers and brake lines and then found out that it's still not working +1 sub
jerry gades Thanks for the update jerry! That’s cool. Let me know if you have any questions in the mean time. Thanks for subscribing! I just subscribed to you 😎👍
i have a 2002 s10 4.3 4x4 blew brake line replaced and bled now dont have power assits pedal hard before start truck start truck and pedal goes to floor no power from booster any ideas thank you
I bought a new brake booster and it came with a fake valve just something to connect the vacuum hose to I took it off and blew in it nothing happened I just went right through I put the old one back on and now it breaks like never before I bought the brake booster from O'Reilly
I got a 95' Nissan Pathfinder, my brake pedal stiffens more as my engine heats up, and relaxes as the engine cools. The pedal will get so stiff to the point where my car will ride on the brakes as I'm trying to drive, making my engine heat up quicker causing more pressure on the breaks. occasionally if the engine isn't too hot I can pull the pedal upwards with my foot to relieve the breaks just enough to get the car moving fast enough to cool the engine
JungleTrooper Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎 It can be a few different things... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Id like to add, the rare but as it just happened to me after changing all the caliper seals! Very possible chance of the booster solely failing and getting stuck in boost mode, which causes the brakes to gradually lock up 5-10 miles down the road once the pressure builds.1 Used booster and the same check valve, same master cyl, bled t brake lines and were of, no more lockup and Super responsive braking(then again I drove for a week with no booster an let me tell ya, Sorta kinda fun if it wasn't so dangerous and cumbersome haha)
Socknetea Thanks so much for sharing your info! That is definitely awesome & helpful info for all of us! We really appreciate you taking the time to reach out to us! We are happy to hear that you had a good time with your DIY project, we love that! Keep us posted with any questions you may have along the way, we are here to help! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
I got 1993 Chevy G30 Motorhome. Every time I press on the brake the engine shuts off. When engine off and pumping brake 5 times it gets harder and harder. Im assuming the hydrobrake booster is bad? Yes, I have a hydrobooster. Any info would really help. Trying to get it running for my dad before it gets towed. I appreciate it!
Thanks for watching Scott! This is definitely more common than most think! Lets figure this out! Open the Hood and do a thorough check of all your vacuum lines that go in and out of the booster as well as run along the firewall. You most likely have a leak somewhere in the lines which is allowing air to vacate the system and cause the lack of efficient operation of the Brake System..and is leading to your engine dying! After doing that...turn on the Air Condition. Let me know if the engine bogs down or stalls... In the event that you try these steps and find no leaks...the next item we will need to check is the Brake Booster as you mentioned. There is an internal Diaphragm inside Booster and once it begins to leak or ruptures all together...you will experience engine stalls when applying brakes! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again Scott! Talk to you Soon!
My brake pedal just started getting stiff and now when I’m on the highway my vehicle shakes like crazy. My brakes were just replace like 2000 miles ago.
Snowman3g Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎 It can be a few different things... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
winston ledford Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment Winston. Great info and very important! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
hello , i have a 1996 4 runner, 6-7 months ago i did have brake work done .. to date , i have a had brake , how can you know if it is the whole booster it self or just the check valve .. do you have a video to show how to replace the check valve
Hi vera, thanks for checking out the video. Absolutely. Lets figure this out! Below is a link to three videos that will help. Keep me posted. Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! :-) 1. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 2. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 3. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Hi, I have a 99 dodge ram 1500, am I'm having trouble with my brakes. My brake pedal sometimes tends to lock in place for a second or 2, when pushing it down and then release to come to a stop. Also when I push down on the brake pedal, the pedal sometimes starts clicking while it goes down to a stop. I tried looking into it, and I just ordered a new master cylinder to see if that was the problem. Please let me know if you now what the exact problem is. Thanks.
Whats up Christopher...A few things to look at first. First...has there been any work done to the brakes in the last year? Most of the time you run into clicking noises as well as inconsistent movement of the brake pedal...its due to improper installation of the actual brake pads...funny but true. In the event that you have recently had your pads replaced...Its possible that you will need to take them out and verify they are installed properly Second...if your Caliper / pads have any misc brake pad clips, they will need to be inspected to verify correct installation. Please keep me posted. Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again Christopher!
Jeffery Wilson Thanks for checking out the video & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎 It can be a few different things... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
i have an 02 envoy, just today i went to leave, but when i turned the key... nothing happened.. then mt key got locked in the ignitiin, my auto shifter locked and my break pedal wont budge!! what the heck?!?! my key is still stuck in the ignition! i can push the shifter release button but truck wont even start anyway... So any suggestions appreciated... or a starting point to begin trouble shooting?
Thanks for checking out the video Amanda, In some cases, shifting the wheel back and forth a little more aggressively can release it. Also, a simple tap from a pair of pliers or a gentle tap from a hammer can drop the pin inside the ignition...releasing the lock on the key. Once key is stuck, this can lead to all sorts of issues as you are experiencing. If key lock releases key after taping on it...you should be ok...however with the Envoy, there might be a small hole that you can access the key lock pin. I have heard of a few people in the past spraying WD40 in the hole however you want to be very careful you don't harm anything else in the process. Keep me posted...Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
I have a 83 Crown Victoria LTD...the brake pedal will go down but at a certain position it's harden and want go no more and the car takes longer to stop...it also sound like air in the brake pedal when I press it...what can I do to fix this?? Thanks!!!
Thanks for checking out the video. The sound of "air Hissing" in the brake pedal is almost always an indication of a Brake Booster beginning to fail. The Booster as you know helps manage the efficiency of the force/tension of the pedal...which in the end, makes it easier for you to push. Any leak in the seals/booster will interrupt the efficiency of the system. Keep me posted. Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
Alfredo Guzman Thanks for watching Alfredo, great question! Any signs or sounds of air leaking is almost always tied to two parts... 1. A leak in your Brake Booster. Your Brake Booster is a contributing part to your Vacuum System. If your Booster’s diaphragm’s are worn out, you may experience an air leak... & may hear the sound of leaking air when pressing the brake pedal. Below is a link to our video that shows step-by-step process on testing your Booster. czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 2. Leaking Vacuum Line. A leaking vacuum line will cause air to be released however it will make a “hissing sound”. We recommend starting your engine & doing a thorough inspection of all vacuum lines feeding out of Booster & try to see if you have a leak. If you find a leak, we recommend going to your local AutoZone & purchasing a new vacuum line. Let’s start there, keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
Have a 2005 Silverado, feels like back set of brakes release about 1 sec. late on a stop. have 4 new pads, hoses up front, new calipers , bleed lines , same trouble, off and on, mostly when brake the first few times ?? pleas help
Howard Hilscher Thanks for watching Howard & sharing your experience. We have seen this in the past. Let’s get this figured out! 😀 Since you have several new parts, & have properly bled the brake system...it’s very possible that your check valve that is along the brake lines that feed to your rear wheels is catching / sticking. We recommend re-bleeding your entire brake system. Although it can be annoying and a pain, this is what usually fixes the issue. That check valve regulates the flow of fluid & will definitely disrupt & degrade your brake system performance and reliability when it sticks. Let’s start there! Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome thanks again Howard! 😎👍🔧🔩
I got ? ,On 2008 pt crusier dose it have two line's, or just one, because it has a nipple on one, & there's a hose on another, some thing is missing on the other third pipe , I don't know if it has another nipple or hose? That's on the brake booster.
Mark Miguel Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your experience Mark! That’s a great question! There should be vacuum lines connected to all connection points! With the engine running, and slowly applying pressure to brake pedal...do you hear hissing sounds or whistling sounds? If so...then you will want to replace all vacuum lines with new lines! Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍🔧🔩
John Lee Thanks for checking out the video! This is definitely not uncommon! It can be a few different things....lets get this figured out together and get you bak on the road safely! My initial thought is your Calipers are beginning to stick. Below are several options it can be...Lets do This! 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
No. If ur pedal gets stiff, it doesn’t cause any brakes to compress at the wheels. You still should have perfect brakes. You just no longer have power on your brakes. Basically going back to old school cars. No power brakes
I changed my rear brake pads the other day (one of the pads on the drivers side was thin but the other 3 were OK). I noticed when I opened the drivers side caliper bleeder valve to push the piston back in, no brake fluid came out unlike when I did the other side but the piston did go back in easily. I took the car for a test drive and now I get a slight whooshing sound when I press the brake pedal (NOTE: its not a hissing sound). The brakes work fine and the pedal doesn’t feel spongy, its just that whooshing sound which it didn’t make before. I can hear it when Im sitting in the car but its louder coming from the engine compartment. I bled all the brakes, no air came out just solid fluid but the same thing still happens. Theres no leaks as the brake fluid is still at Max level and I dont see any evidence of leaking. . I did a couple of brake booster tests, turned the car on for a while then turned it off, pressed the brake pedal a few times then turned the car back on and the pedal sunk as per normal. Next I turned the car on and let it idle for a while then pressed the brake pedal and turned the car off, the pedal still stays down after about 30 seconds. Finally I turned the car on, then when turned off I pressed the brake pedal a few times, it did get a little firmer each time but you can still press the pedal down if you keep pumping the brake but the noise stops after the first two pumps.
My SUV is doing the same. However it's got 330k on it. Now for what my research has found. It could possibly be in the ABS system. That's what I'm thinking with mine. The Breaking is fine and firm, but when push softly to stop at low speeds. I hear it, but still breaks just fine. Maybe it's a check value in the ABS. I'm not changing it either.
Big Clout Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your experience. Brake problems are annoying for sure. Lets figure this out. As far as your brakes locking up...NO FUN...we’ve all been there. It can be a few different things.... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
David Thompson Thanks for watching & sharing your experience, what’s your update? Are you experiencing a hard brake pedal after a few minutes of driving? Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
The car is a 2015 Suzuki Vitara SZ5. I'm not sure if its available in the US. The only thing it has been back to the dealer for is a recall here in the UK for rear axle bolts. Apparently the original ones were marginally short so they replaced them with longer bolts. This issue is really frustrating me.
I have attached a few options that may cause this. Check out the vides and let me know if you have run into any of these issues. czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
My 2012 Altima locks up the front brakes, first the driver side starting smoking, then I stopped to let it cool, then started again to get it home. Right inside the garage with 2 feet of the car still outside I heard a thud on the passenger side and that side smoked. The car wouldn't move because the passenger side was completely locked. The abs light also turned on when the car was still moving. Do you think the check valve is the culprit or the brake hose on both sides are clogged? I did notice when replacing the driver side caliper that the fluid didn't drip much out of the hose. Haven't taken off the hose from the passenger side.
John Sturgess Thanks for watching & it’s more likely that your brake line is causing issues. We recommend replacing brake line. Next, properly refill brake reservoir with new fluid. Next, bleed brakes. Keep us posted! Let us know if you have any questions. Many more helpful videos to come! 😀 Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
I have a 1989 chevy c7000 I change the brake power booster and master cylinder now my brake pedal is hard when I push down it only goes down about 1 inch, any idea what the problem might be?
Maggie Rodriguez Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment & experience Maggie! Let’s get this figured out! Did you properly Bleed your Master Brake Cylinder? Most people Bleed the Master Brake Cylinder prior to installing onto vehicle however it can be done with it already in vehicle... Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome thanks again Maggie 😎👍🔧🔩
Me I had problem on the engine RPM, it fluctuates whenever I push or release the brake, and it becoming worse, in addition, after stopping the vehicle for 7 hours, the brake becomes hard to push, when you want to start the engine by using start button , meaning the booster loose the vacuum after stopping the engine in about 8 hours, meaning I have small vacuum leak, but it affect the engine performance, specially when I push or release the brake, so I suspected the booster seals are going bad.
Thanks for watching, any recent repairs done to brake system or suspension? This will help us determine whether or not any recent repairs are tied to issues. Keep us posted. Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our newly launched DIY ecosystem. Toolboxtoken.com Reach out to us any time! 🧰
My pedal hardens up after 10 20 minutes only in the afternoon.... front brakes just lock up... did the pump your brake test and it relieve the tension and drove home no problem
Thanks for checking out the video...This is an annoying issue that thousands of us car owners run into at some point along the way. Have you had any brake repairs done in recent times? A few people I have talked to have had this happen due to recent brake repair.
I just bought it so no... I did notice a blue paint dot on the brake switch and on the booster. I'm thinking this guy tried to fix it at some point. I seen some guy adjust the position of the switch and it help him.
Ok interesting. The previous owner didn't provide any list of repairs he/she have completed while they owned it. Have you inspected your caliper slides to see if they are fluctuating properly?
Michael, we have a 2010 Acura TSX - when it's cold outside the brake pedal is hard and doesn't brake till the car warms up or we pump the brakes many times then it works perfectly fine... Ideas?? TIA
William Butts Thanks for watching & we hope you enjoyed the video. It can be a few different things however you may have a Booster in its early stages of failure. It’s also possible that your Master Brake Cylinder is beginning to fail. Many more helpful videos to come! 😀 Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
Just want to know i have a celica 2004 at the time i was driveing it it was hesitating kept turning off and a nasty pop sound happen and smoke was everywere then my pedel got hard Can someone explane what happen i would really appreciate it
Monokuma Despair Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your experience! Let’s get this figured out! A popping noise can be several things inside an engine however since your brake pedal got hard, we need to focus on your entire Brake System! Where exactly did the smoke generate? Was it down near front wheels? Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
I have a 98 Chevy Tahoe and I have a new booster on it and every time I crank my truck that check valve is seeping air lights and have my truck running idle missing light how can I fix that check valve to stop from leaking
what if i just replaced the vacuum booster? ( may have to replace the master cylinder as well) took it for a test drive. Brakes were soft for the first mile. all of a sudden became stiff and brakes began to lock up. had to limp it back home. thoughs?
DeoVindice After driving awhile, did you notice if either of the front brakes/tires were heating up far above normal...maybe making cracking noises? Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome thanks again 😀👍
Is there a part number for the brake booster check valve? Can’t find one at our local automotive box stores. The Dakota has ports for 2 vacuum hoses. Can only find check valve’s with one port for one vacuum hose.
Thanks for watching, what year is your Dakota? You can reference the part link below. amzn.to/3VbKiDE If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below, I earn from qualifying purchases. 😁👍🧰
Hi, I have a 10 month old car that all of a sudden the brake pedal goes hard after leaving vehicle for more than 3 hours or of course overnight. The booster is working as the pedal gets assist as soon as the engine starts up. As the vehicle is under warranty I returned to the dealer who tells me there is no problem with the car. Do you think there could be a problem with the check valve?
John Aspin Hi there John, thanks for checking out the video. This can be frustrating as you experience these issues and at the same time...Mechanics tell you everything is ok... Has there been any recent MX repairs completed to vehicle in last 24 months? What year/make/and model is the vehicle?
I have a 2000 Silverado and when I'm turning, like going through the McDonald's drive thru or even just parking. my brake pedal completely hardens up. there is no moving it, which in turn leaves me with no brakes....at all. eventually there is a loud clanking noise and I get it back. I was told from a few people that it was the brake booster, does this sound right?
Whats up Jason...brakes issues are definitely annoying... Thanks for checking out the video. This is definitely not uncommon! It can be a few different things.... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Thanks for watching & we appreciate you sharing this. Sounds like you have a part that’s in it’s early stages of failure... in other words... A part is working intermittently at the moment and will fail sooner or later. It can be a few different things. 1. Caliper slide needs lubricant czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html 2. Too much fluid in reservoir czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html 3. Caliper needs replacement czcams.com/video/HQqv0hWR8Ec/video.html 4. Failing brake line czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html Keep us posted. 😎👍🔧🔩
Hi , I have a 2015 chrysler town and country, maybe once or twice a day the brake pedal gets hard to push for about 3 seconds and back to normal. Did it today on a drive through line barely moving . Has about 78,xxx miles , I did notice some splits on some of the vacuum lines but they don't go through to cause a leak . Could it be the check valve or a valve on the vacuum line ? Brake booster seems to be working when tested pumping brakes til it gets hard , start the van an pedal goes down to normal range .
Oh forgot to add , one of the times at a light the brake pedal got hard ..coming to a light . When it stopped , holding the brake pedal down pressing on it . I heard a hissing sound like air coming out .
@@GeneralGP114 Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Let’s get this figured out. A few things can cause hard brake pedal. The most common cause is a worn out caliper that has its internal piston getting stuck periodically. This may not be your issue as you mentioned a hissing sound. First, we recommend starting engine & opening hood. Direct your attention to all lines feeding in-&-out of booster. If any hissing is heard, pinpoint the exact vacuum line hissing & have it replaced. Next, let’s look at the 2nd friendliest repair which is your check valve. If this doesn’t fix issue & you are 100% certain that your vacuum lines are not leaking, your booster may be in its early stages of failure. Let’s start there, keep us posted.
David Thanks for watching & we hope you enjoyed the video. Great question & anytime your engine is experiencing degraded performance, whether it is a lack of air intake, fuel burn, or worn out spark plugs & wires/coil pack...its always possible that your engine will stall at a lower idle. Many more helpful videos to come! 😀 Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
2004 trailblazer the pedal goes to the floor every single time and we hear bursts of air escaping every time so no pressure builds up and the calipers don't move.
Shadoe Knose Thanks for watching! You are experiencing 1 of 3 things! 1. It’s very possible that your Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) has failed. The MBC primarily controls the flow of brake fluid to & from all brakes. When failed, pedal no longer has fluid assistance from MBC...thus goes to floor. Below is a video shows more about MBC czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html 2. Brake Booster failure...Brake Booster assists brake pedal by lowering the amount of pressure required for pressing pedal...aka makes it easier to press... once failed, Brake Booster releases the air pressure thus pedal goes to floor... 3. Vacuum leak...check all vacuum lines coming out of Brake Booster under hood...while engine is running, listen for any hissing sounds. If you hear hissing, locate leak and replace line. Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍🔧🔩
Thanks we had already replaced the master cylinder and still nothing at the calipers, no movement. We can hear the loud hiss/air release normally not heard at the booster while pumping the pedal.
Shadoe Knose Thanks for the update! Have you inspected your vacuum lines to verify no leaks...that’s usually the most common cause of hissing sounds under hood. 😎👍🔧🔩
Shadoe Knose Awesome Awesome & Thanks for the update! We really appreciate you taking the time to share your update comment Shadoe Knose! Definitely keep us posted on if you run into future issues! We would enjoy helping! 😎👍🔧🔩
HELP!!!! 2002 dodge Dakota 4x4 push the pedal and it goes down slowly then suddenly lock the wheels ,totally and is getting worse.... I feel like I'm driving a coffin
Jacobo Lopez Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎 It can be a few different things... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
If you have a weak or lazy brake pedal & it does breath threw the Master Brake Cylinder would you hear that in your car as you start & stop your engine as a woosh or air vacuum type sound lasting about 1 second ? I hear this sound from somewhere near the dash & instrument panel . My brakes seem to perform with engine off as you say & pedal goes down as I turn engine on, though the brakes seem lazy when driving & many times I have to pump them while at a stop light .. If I could upload an audio file you can easily hear it..
JOHN W Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! A few things come to mind. If it’s a hissing sound, this is almost always a vacuum line leak. We recommend starting engine & allowing engine to warm up to normal operating temperatures. Next, complete a thorough inspection of all vacuum lines feeding out of your Brake Booster. If you find a leak, we recommend visiting your local AutoZone to purchase replacement vacuum line. If no leaks found, it’s very possible that your Brake Booster is in its early stages of failure. However before we go that route, let’s inspect the Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) With the engine running, have someone in the vehicle slowly & gently pressing the brake pedal. While the individual is pressing brake pedal, you will need to inspect entire MBC & all brake lines feeding in & out of part & determine if there are any leaks. Let’s start there, keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks for the reply, I waited this long so I could do all of the suggestions you mentioned.. First - it is not a Hissing sound.. More like a 1 second vacuum sound. Almost as if air was being released for a quick second., it is too bad I cant upload an audio file.. I cant find any leaks in either the Booster lines or master cylinder lines. I am wondering if its been there for months or longer & I just happened to notice it due to the weather being cooler down here & no need for AC to be running to cover the sound, There are times I just don't catch the sound, I have to be paying attention.. My mechanic thought booster or lines but all check good.. He is great, only charged me $20 to spend an hour checking.. said to keep an ear open & see what happens.. If it changes I will keep you posted.. Thanks
JOHN W Very cool & thanks for the update! Your reply is very informative & makes us think of something important. It’s very possible that your Brake Booster’s diaphragm is no longer providing its “Air Tight Seal”...leading to the sound you’re hearing. Also, when your Booster fails, it can actually get to a point where it’s allowing Brake Fluid into your Booster....which lowers your Brake Fluid inside your reservoir & system. This means that if you have inspected ALL brake lines & parts associated with brake system & you see absolutely NO Leaks....however at the same time, your Brake Fluid quantity continues to lower....”mysteriously disappearing”...that’s exactly where your Fluid is going....inside the Booster....which is obviously not good. 🤦♂️ Mention this to your mechanic & see if he or she has any thoughts on this. Keep us posted! 😎👍🔧🔩
Ty and Tonia Grady Thanks for checking out the video & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎 It can be a few different things... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Hello. I just replaced my own spark plugs on my 2005 dodge grand caravan. Started it up and now my breaks dont work.. I must have made a hose loose while doing the back spark plugs? My breaks are extremely tough now to push on pedal.. 😑
John W I have attached the reply from your other comment here. Hope this helps! It can be a few different things....thats if you are experiencing a HARD Brake Pedal... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome! 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 9. Master Brake Cylinder Failure: czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html Again let us know! We are here to help!
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I found the problem. Looks like while I changed the back 3 spark plugs, I unhooked the booster brake hose from a nozzle. I plugged that hose back into it. Brakes work again 😁 thanks for the quick reply!
John W Awesome Awesome & thanks for sharing your update John W. That’s great! We are happy to hear you’re back up & running! That’s a friendly DIY repair right there & didn’t cost you any money! 😀 Let us know if you have any additional questions, we are here to help! 😎👍🔧🔩
I have a toyota yaris and the brakes naturally feel like shit. I've replaced the MC a few times since I got the car and put the original back on since they all have the same feel. Recently, I've felt sometimes when I pressed the brake It doesnt engage like it should. Sometimes I have to press on it twice to feel it stop. There are no leaks, rubber hoses are good. Only thing is front brakes have some runout, brake fluid is new. Im stumped.
AwesomenessIskey Whats up Awesomenesslskey, thanks for checking out the video. Lets figure this out! Three things come to mind after reading your comment. 1. It’s possible that your Master Brake Cylinder wasn’t completely Bled properly...just like bleeding brakes after replacing Calipers...the Master Brake Cylinder must be bled!...this is usually done before installation into engine. 2. Your Brake Calipers are getting weak! After years of use, your Calipers begin to seize up on one side...this causes uneven braking & a little wobble feeling in the brake pedal when braking! New Calipers may help! 3. Brake Booster Failure...over time your brake booster weakens and no longer holds the pressure/tension that it once did in its early/new stages. Below are links to videos that will help. Keep me posted. Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! :-) 1. Caliper Replacement: czcams.com/video/i-f5mbDQmqo/video.html czcams.com/video/HQqv0hWR8Ec/video.html czcams.com/video/m1iVBJIqQfw/video.html 2. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 3. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
I checked the calipers and they are fine. I bled the brakes again with a neighbor about two weeks ago front then rear. Booster actually had fluid in it from before, but I cleaned it up really well. I thought the booster would make your pedal harder to push?
AwesomenessIskey Thanks for the update! Let’s look into the Booster! Over the past few months have you noticed the fluid level in your brake reservoir lowering and at the same time there are absolutely zero leaks in the entire brake system? This is important because in the event that you are losing brake fluid & there are absolutely zero leaks, there’s usually one place that the brake fluid goes...the Brake Booster! In the event that you are finding brake fluid inside the actual booster, unfortunately that booster will need to be replaced. This can be the reason for the poor brake performance. Keep us posted! 😎👍🔧🔩
Hi, I have got a Jag 2.7 Diesel 2005, as I noticed stopping is not precise and the pedal was bit stiff, I took it to the mechanic he changed the break pads and the vacuum pump but still same? what should I do?
Thanks for watching. Below is the reply for the question you asked on our other video. Hope this helps. 😎👍 Thanks for watching & the next parts to direct your attention to is your front calipers. It is extremely uncommon for both of your front calipers to fail at the same time.... and this will actually help you determine which caliper you need to replace. After driving vehicle, check which front tire is giving off more heat and crackling sounds. If the drivers side rim is normal temperature while the passenger side rim is very hot... you will need to replace the passenger side caliper. Hope this helps. Keep us updated. Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together. 😎👍🔧🔩
Ok having trouble with my 98 Chevy blazer 4x4 passenger side brake is sticking. I'm going to start from the beginning. last week on September 5th my brake booster was going out ( when I applied brake pedal half way it start to have a hissing sound ) so I had to replace the brake booster I drove with the old brake booster 15 to 20 mile from work to home. I bought a new one on the way home and replaced it. after I replaced it everything felt fine but now after I drive between 5 to 8 miles with minimum braking maybe 6 times total it gets hard and causes the passenger side to freeze. I had a warranty for the caliper so I replaced it thinking that was the problem . replacing it didn't help what so ever. I also replaced the brake hoses from line to caliper a month ago. Do you think I could I have bought a faulty brake booster. I forgot to mention that when it did it to me the other night I decide to do a little test. when I drove it and got it sticking I drove it back home and got it to where it would still stick while in drive and stay in one spot. I then pulled the vacuum hose from the brake booster and it released it. if I drive it with out the hose on it does fine other then the hard brake pedal feel. but it only sticks when the vacuum is connected and drive for little bit
98_Blazer_LT Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment and experience my friend. Brake problems are definitely annoying haha! Your explanation helps! After filling me in on all your recent repairs, it's very possible that your Brake Booster is Faulty! This is not common however not 100% unlikely. I spoke to a friend awhile back that experienced this exact situation. He returned his New Brake Booster for another one. Come to find out...they called him back a few days later to let him know the Brand New Booster he had purchased and then returned was ruptured internally. Again, very uncommon but definitely possible when these parts are manufactured! The problem was that since the Booster was internally damaged, the vacuum flow had begun to work in the opposite way it was designed to...which in return worked "Against" your foot pressure as opposed to "With" your foot pressure! This resulted in all the symptoms you are unfortunately experiencing. I recommend returning Booster for a new Booster! Explain to them what you are experiencing and get a second opinion. Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
DIY With Michael Borders thanks for getting back to me. I had 2 other people say that it need to be adjust so the said washers between the master cylinder and booster. So I tried it took it for a test drive ( knock on wood ) it helped. I didn't know I was supposed to grab my old push rod so my fault. First time ever dealing with a brake booster
98_Blazer_LT Thanks for the update! That's great news. That's definitely more convenient than the other options haha! Please keep me posted over the next few days/weeks of driving it. That would be awesome 😀
so far so good have not had a problem. Brake pedal did feel stiff once but not dragging or sticking. been driving now for 2 or 3 days now just waiting on rear rotors to com in so I can replace those. but all in all its good thank you for getting back to me
for anyone who knows just got my liberty on the road after 2 years sitting brake pedal was solid but no brakes . replaced booster , brakes are still solid but wont compress is the a problem with locked up calipers or am i missing something?
TheOldGunsmith58 Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎 It can be a few different things... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
have one other problem you may be able to help with . same 02 liberty passenger side wiring connector for downstream 4 wire o2 sensor (harness side ) missing sense replaced engine not finding wiring harness diagram for 02 that shows wiring from sensors into harness . 03 is not the same
TheOldGunsmith58 Thanks for the reply. We also took a look & you’re right, nor much on it. Here’s what we recommend. Visit your local dealership & head back to the parts department. Explain what you need & they have an awesome software that can pull up all systems diagrams for entire vehicle. You may find this is the best route and then you can either purchase part from them or you can purchase part online. Keep us posted!
Does anyone take care of the the underside of the hood any more. I try to keep mine cleaned by wiping it down. All that dirt, dust, and debris causes plastic, and rubber to deteriorate faster. Not to mention nasty looking.
Ted Thornton Thanks for watching & sharing your thoughts Ted. We are strong believers in the better care you take of your belongings, the longer they last. Let us know if you have any questions! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
When I push my brakes down it goes to the floor sometimes not all the times but make a vibrate humming sound. And is slow to stop at times. What do you suggest
Tyler Rogers What’s up Tyler, thanks for watching! You are experiencing 1 of 3 things! 1. It’s very possible that your Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) is beginning to fail. The MBC primarily controls the flow of brake fluid to & from all brakes. When failed, pedal no longer has fluid assistance from MBC...thus goes to floor. Below is a video shows more about MBC czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html 2. Brake Booster failure...Brake Booster assists brake pedal by lowering the amount of pressure required for pressing pedal...aka makes it easier to press... once failed, Brake Booster releases the air pressure thus pedal goes to floor... 3. Vacuum leak...check all vacuum lines coming out of Brake Booster under hood...while engine is running, listen for any hissing sounds. If you hear hissing, locate leak and replace line. Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders i did replace the check valve just because and it did change the idle dropping when hitting brakes just to eliminate that. Went to pull the abs speed sensor and it broke so have to replace that now..read that they get dirty and are over acting. So now i have to replace that and pull the other out and clean it. I will check the hose to the check valve just to make sure it's not leaky or cracked some where. Ill keep posted
Tyler Rogers Awesome Awesome & that’s a great update & we appreciate it Tyler. A new Sensor will be great & should help. Keep us posted, we are standing ready to help! 😎👍🔧🔩
Thanks for checking out the video. The bottom hose feeds to the manifold while the upper hose feed to the opposite side of engine and provides Atmospheric pressure for brake Booster. Subscribe to the channel if you're up to it. Thanks again!
I'm getting more annoyed, the more I read the comments. Everyone with older cars seem to be having symptoms of these components failing. I have a 2015 Cruze and I am having so much trouble with It, and today, after getring it back from the shop yesterday, I discover a hissing noise coming from behind the fire wall when I push in and when I release my brake pedal. They said they fixed a vacuum leak by changing a purge valve. And then I pick up my car and have this hissing noise that wasn't there until now, until after getting it back from them. Uggghhhh I may cry. Lol
Jamie Winters Jamie, thanks for watching! We definitely understand your annoyance! Especially since you just got it out of shop. The hissing sound is literally 100% due to a vacuum leak in any of the vacuum lines & part they replaced. Here’s what we recommend there are two options! 1. Since they charged you for fixing the vacuum leak...it’s time to call the shop & share with them the issue still persists. Although it is extremely annoying to have to take the car back to shop...at least they can replace all vacuum lines. 2. You can drive vehicle to your local AutoZone & share your experience with them. Request that a AutoZone specialist come outside to your car & listen to the hissing sound. The AutoZone specialist will be able to locate the leak & show you which vacuum line must be purchased and replaced. At that point, you can change the line yourself and save some 💰. Let’s start there! Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
I have 2008 Altima all wheels locked up after 5 minutes driving . Next day driver again for another 5 minutes.. all wheels are Rock hard oil going all wheels no leak . What do think is the problem.thanks
الحمدلله الذي خلصني Thanks for checking out the video. This is definitely an annoying issue to run into. We have attached a few options that may cause this. Let’s get this figured out! 😀 Check out the vides and let us know if these troubleshooting steps help. czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
john joseph Thanks for watching & we appreciate you reaching out to us. A few months prior, we changed pads & rotors. All went well. We really enjoy making these helpful videos for our fellow DIY’ers. 😀 Let us know if you have any questions. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
hello, I have a 1999 Honda accord ex and I'm having trouble finding the problem on my brakes system. my brake pedal tends to get hard out of nowhere and the car starts shaking bad when I barely press the brake pedal.
Hey there thanks for checking out the video. This is definitely an annoying issue that so many people run into. First question....has there been any recent work done to your brake system in the last year? From what you have mentioned you are experiencing, i am almost positive that its one of...(Or BOTH) of your brake calipers. When your brake calipers begin to fail or the caliper slides begin to dry up, your caliper begins to stick. This leads to the shaking and unbalanced feeling you are mentioning. Before you change the caliper...check to see if you caliper slides just need to be re-lubricated. Below is a video on how to check I have attached a few options that may cause this. Check out the vides and let me know if you have run into any of these issues. Please keep me posted. Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
Interesting! I'm rock'n a magnificent uber special limited edition 1999 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 v8. 3 times now I went out to start my beast, and I get a no start. Nothing, nada, zip, zero. No crank, nothing at all. Also, my break peddle is hard as a rock. I give it a few hours or even wait until the next day, and she fires right up. I was thinking maybe it had to do with my master cylinder gasket since it appears sucked in when I pop the cover, but thx to this awesome insightful video, I'm now thinking the power booster, or the power booster check valve. Since the power booster check valve is a check valve, would it be prudent to just disconnect it and try blowing through the opposite end to see if air can travel back through it? That would be way cheaper if it's just the check valve, but how would I go about testing the power booster? Thx for the vid! Thumbs up!
Thanks for watching Kirk & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. You are very welcome. We are looking forward to hearing back from you as you work through your project. Enjoy your upcoming weekend. 👍
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Check valve and hoses are good. When I pulled out the check valve, I heard a rush of air. I didn't get that rush of air the last time, so maybe it was just loose(somehow). So I let the Limited Edition 1999 Chevy Tahoe beast run for a bit, then turned off the engine. I pushed the brake pedal to the floor for 30 seconds, but felt no push back whatsoever. If the booster is good, shouldn't I feel a push back or is it and indicator that the booster is bad? On the master cylinder rests the reservoir and I've noticed that whenever I open the cap that the gasket is sucked in, and also the cap itself doesn't appear completely snug. Here is my question, if the cap on the master cylinder reservoir isn't 100% bulletproof sealed (even a smidget) would that account for the sucking in of the gasket and also having an effect on the booster not pushing my foot back up when, with the engine off I pushed down on the peddle for 30 seconds? Or was I supposed to conduct the holding down the break peddle for 30 seconds test with the engine on? Well I did both, and both times felt no push back from the peddle. I guess I'll start with replacing the reservoir just to make sure both the gasket and cap match. Afterall, who knows what repairs were made or how many owners there were. Fun 😁.
@@kirkhustle3718 Kirk, thanks for the update. Below is a link to our video showing us testing our Booster. You may find this helpful. czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html In regards to the seal on cap, it’s unlikely that it would cause the level of degraded performance that you’re experiencing... however we cannot rule it out. Do you have a spare cap lying around that just so happens to be the same size. Testing it with another cap that is the exact same size may help when determining the next step.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Alright alright alright, Booster check complete and..... It's good! Chippy cha cha radical! I do not have a spare cap lying about for the reservoir, it's one of those rectangular ones and even though all four points are capped, it looks a bit wonky on one side. I'm thinking that some air is getting in and that might have something to do with that rectangle rubber gasket type thing getting sucked in at a weird angle inside the reservoir when it should be completely flat. So it seems, it's either air is getting inside the reservoir, or this entire time the power booster check valve was just loose. Ha. Anyway it gets me outta the house so I can cruise to the store and replenish some strength. Wife wants another baby and she's ruthless.
@@kirkhustle3718 That’s awesome, not having to replace the booster will keep some money in your pocket!! Air getting into system is getting more & more likely as you run through the troubleshooting steps. Looking forward to hearing back from you. 😎👍
I have a 03 vw bug was teaching my gf how to drive stick and she stalled it 3 times on the 3rd tome my brake pedal got stiffed. I opened up the hood and saw the vaccumed hose popped off and was cracked since it was old. I replaced the hose and it idles and runs perfectly fine but the brake pedal is still stiff. Do I need a new brake booster or should I try bleeding the brake lines. the car was completely fine up into the point where my gf stalled
Thanks for the reply. This is definitely not uncommon! It can be a few different things.... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Anytime!. Keep me posted! Having brake problems can definitely be annoying. We have all been there...no fun. We are going to figure this out :-) I would start with the basic inspections and see if you just need to re-grease some parts.
Thanks for checking out the video qazzar87! This is definitely not uncommon! It can be a few different things....lets get this figured out together and get you bak on the road safely! My initial thought is that your Master Brake Cylinder is beginning to fail. This part regulates the proper flow of Brake Fluid to & from all brake calipers and once it begins to fail, you will experience symptoms such as you have...however it might be something else that we can check without spending cash yet. Here is a link that talks about Master Brake Cylinder...ALSO, below that link are several other options it can be...Lets do This! czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
DIY With Michael Borders thanks for infomation,very2 appreciate that.its also got leaking at rear master cylinder.for your infomation,i already drive with this condition around 3 month😂😂😂
Thanks for the update. That info definitely helps! Since you have located and verified that your Brake System has a leak...this will definitely cause your Brake Pedal to act the way it is. I strongly recommend that you keep a very close eye on your Brake Fluid level. In the event that it gets below the proper fill line..and continues to leak...Air can and will enter the lines and cause a huge annoying...not to mention dangerous situation. You Brakes will continue to get worse and worse until no brakes at all...No good! It a really good idea to get that leaking part fixed. Let me know what you end up doing...im definitely here if you have any questions along the way!
DIY With Michael Borders maybe i change kit inside master cylinder.in my country,its hard to find sparepart for my car.im use old car toyota cressida.normally what cause leak inside master cylinder?
Thanks for watching. A hissing sound is almost 100% of the time a leaking vacuum line. With engine running, carefully inspect vacuum lines feeding in & out of Booster & pinpoint the line that is hissing. You can purchase a new line at your local AutoZone. Keep us posted. 😎👍🔧🔩
Pancho El mion Thanks for watching & we hope the video helped. Are you experiencing Hard brake pedal? You mentioned your steering wheel. If your steering wheel is beginning to get stiff, you may need to add power steering fluid to your power steering reservoir. We really enjoy making these helpful videos for our fellow DIY’ers. Many more helpful videos to come! 😀 Keep us posted on your project & any questions you may have. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
Nive video . i got a question tho . i just did a break booster replacement and a year later the van comes back and the break pedal is rock solind , like it can stop the van but a little pressure is needed to do so . could that be the break booster itseld or something els
Hi there.. I upgraded my brake booster to a bigger one (7"), Post that the brakes were very effective, however after driving for a while, the brakes start to drag and the pedal becomes harder. I have to disconnect MC from booster to release the brakes .. and again it works for 100kms without issues and then same problem repeats.. what could be the reason for this?
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Are you still having issues? After installing new Booster, did you bleed brakes? The Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) may also need to be bled. There are several helpful videos on how to bleed MBC. Keep us posted.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Brakes and MC are bled, I removed MC out and started the engine, pushed brake 20-25 times, what I observed is that the push rod is not fully retracting sometimes and stays 2-3 mm pushed out..can lower pressure in vaccum pump cause this?.. if I manually push the pushrod using my finger, it retracts to its position
my break is pumping when applying brake on high speed around 50 to 60 KPH. but when moving slow, 40 kph below, no problems on brake. need help. what are the possible problems
Kev Kevz Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment and experience. Although it is extremely uncommon, you might have a warped rotor. If you can see through your wheel well to the rotor...check to see if any spots are different. If so replace. Again it's VERY unlikely...but possible. As you know, the brake system relies on its parts creating the correct and equalized friction. At any point this friction is interrupted, the symptoms you may see is chattering breaks at high-speed's as you mentioned and will go away and slower speeds. You might need to replace your calipers and pads. Overtime calipers begin to weaken and apply pressure to the brake pads unevenly...thus leading to the chattering. If this is your issue, you will notice that your brake pads will show signs of uneven wear...one may still have a lot of life on it while the other may be completely bare...not good. So with that said, lets try a few things before you actually replace the calipers. Attached are some videos that you can try such as lubricating the slides, lubricating the rails... 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html
I see... so, you mean I might have a bend disk or drum breaks is not perfectly in circle shape, so everytime i press the break, its pumping because of un even shape. I will check that. I will inform you. THANK you very much for that Idea.
I check all the brakes and it seems no dent at all. break pad still tick and can use more, no sounds while braking, I cleaned it all and it lessen the Pump and sometimes it doesn't pump.
Thanks for the update. Moving in the right direction. Have you have any work to the brake system in the last few years? Have you verified that you don't have any leaks in the brake lines underneath the vehicle? Double check the brake lines under the hood that feed out of your Master Cylinder... Its very possible that your Master Brake Cylinder has begun to fail. Its purpose is to manage the proper flow of the fluid within the system and send in through the lines to the brakes...once that begins to fail...you will begin experiencing the symptoms you are. Below is a video that shows a Master Brake Cylinder... czcams.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=F9s_1VZ2u5E
Briann Esparza Thanks for watching! At the last 10 seconds of the video, you will see square video pictures pop up. Those are the corresponding video links. We hope this helps! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
My brakes were working fine until my car sat for several months. Now the brakes are basically stuck at the floor and won't release. Could this be the check valve?
Dave Haertel Hey Dave, thanks for checking out the video! This is definitely not uncommon, let’s get this figured out! 😀 It can be a few different things.... My initial thought is your Calipers are beginning to stick. Below are several options it can be...Lets do This! 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome! 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Ok, so I check the brake check valve and it's operating fine, I changed clamps on the end of the hose from the carb, so there's good vacuum when I pull it out of the booster, so I'm pretty sure that's not the issue, all wheels spin freely when the car is up on blocks. Very maddening.
Cuttyz On The Beat Thanks for watching, we appreciate it. We hope the video helped. A hissing sound is almost 100% due to a leak in one of your vacuum hoses. We recommend starting engine and trying your best to pinpoint the exact hose causing the hissing sounds. Next, head to your local AutoZone and they will be able to sell you the exact replacement hose for your vehicle. Keep us posted. As we have shared with many others, we really enjoy making these helpful videos for our fellow DIY’ers. 😀 Many more helpful videos to come. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders well its not a hissing sound more of it just sounds like air is being pushed from where my brake pedal area by my feet when i press it
CROCKPOT Thanks for the update, we really appreciate it! We are happy to hear you’re back up & running! Hopefully you were able to fix it at minimal cost. Let us know if you have any questions, we are here to help! 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders some dummy who had the car before me didn't put a new 1 on and the old 1 was bridle and cracked man I had to remove the plastic part to the brake booster and replace that and the whole hose after that it start running again. No you do not have to bleed the brakes to do that. Lol I bought it from another person
CROCKPOT Thanks for the reply & update. It’s like you never truly know what a vehicle has been through with the previous owner. 😆 You always have that “curious wonder”...why are they selling this vehicle... 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders That is so true. This car cried HELP ME lol and I ended up purchasing it for $500 and the engine and transmission is really good just that the oil pan had gotten dinged up after that I went on and fixed it fully to help the car start working again. After hand it started doing better and fully workable again :). So now she trust me better than anyone else glad I bought her. The engine is super clean for a 1999 VW Jetta. Looks as like the previous owners never took good care of it. But now it's top-notch ready :) thanks for the info and help :).
I know mine is bad. I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu LS and its brake pedal goes from soft to hard. And when applying the brakes the idle goes berserk and the car either stalls or wants to stall .
DeadSpaceGrave Thanks for watching. That’s no fun. This is usually caused by a bad brake booster or an issue with your vacuum system. You can actually visit your local AutoZone and they will hook up a scanner to your vehicle for 100% free and read the engine error code that it is giving off. Your vehicle may be giving off an ABS code and they will be able to pinpoint what part needs to be replaced. Let us know if you have any questions. Please subscribe to the channel and Ring your CZcams Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
Hi michael I have an 87 jeep cherokee laredo 4x4 When i start the vehicle theres a whistle sound or more like high pressure air leak which quits when i push the brake pedal What would that be? Brake booster ? Which i cant seem to find on any autoparts in central washington state Thanks in advance I will be checking for vacume leaks this weekend Thanks again
Juan Rodriguez Thanks for watching & sharing your experience Jain. A hissing/whistling sound is a sign of a vacuum leak. Here’s what we recommend. Start your engine & open hood. Direct your attention to the vacuum lines feeding off your actual Brake Booster. Do your best to pinpoint the exact location of the leak along the vacuum lines. Once you locate the exact location of leak & which hose needs to be replaced, you can visit your local AutoZone to purchase a new part. You may find it most convenient to drive vehicle to AutoZone which will allow an AutoZone employee to match your vacuum line/hose for the exact replacement part. Keep us posted, we are always here to help! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
DIY With Michael Borders hi michael ive got the 4x4 working now Something was unplugged by the transfercase a vacuum line Ive now encounter another problem I started messing with vacuum lines that were unplugged and also noticed the air idle control valve was unplugged I connected two line together alomg with the air control valve while engine was off Started it and high revs to 3k rpm Unplugged everything to Leave it the way it was and not change still high revving Will clean throttle body with cleaner and that sensor Am i heading the right direction ?
Juan Rodriguez Thanks for the update Jain. Two things to focus on. 1. Your Idle Sensor. Below is a link to our step-by-step video that shows replacement of part. This controls & manages your engine RPM. czcams.com/video/6tKhTSWJCzA/video.html 2. Recent fuel additives Have you or anyone recently inserted any fuel stabilizer or fuel enhancement products into your fuel system? The fuel enhancing products can usually lead to unmanaged jumps in RPM if not managed correctly with the fuel to air ratio. Also, do you hear any hissing sounds when your engine is running? Focus on your vacuum lines... hissing sounds are a clear indication of a vacuum leak. Keep us posted! 😎👍🔧🔩
hi my name is Jason. I have a 2002 Lincoln lse. One day driving down the street instrument cluster pegged out then went back normal so kept driving home. Got home and went to turn car off and car would not cut off even with key out engine still running had to pull fuel pump fuse to get it off. Put the fuse back in and the car hasn't started since security light is flashing not allowing the car to start. Put it in the shop they said I had a bad instrument cluster. So I replace the instrument cluster and had a locksmith reprogram new keys and the new instrument cluster. The security light finally went off but car still won't start. PLEASE HELP I'm thinking it the computer
jason bland Thanks for checking out the video. Sorry to hear you're experiencing annoying car trouble. I have seen this in the past. It can be a few different things. As far as car not turning off 1. Possible computer fault/malfunction as you mentioned 2. Possible back feed from the alternator to the ignition switch that's causing a fault. 3. Possible fault with an aftermarket ignition switch/alarm system that has been added to car...wire not grounded correctly. As far as car not starting after replacing Instrument Cluster 1. Start by making sure you have a good battery...my friend experienced same symptoms and a new battery fixed it... 2. More commonly...Possible fault in anti-theft system...it must be reset. Most cars have anti theft installed...but if yours doesn't...then disregard. 3. Possible incorrect wiring...make sure all wires are installed properly. Please keep me posted... please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome thanks again 😀👍
Thanks for checking out the video. This is definitely an annoying issue to run into. I have attached a few options that may cause this. Check out the vides and let me know if you have run into any of these issues. czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
I have a white smoke coming out of exhaust pipe(only for about 10 minutes after startup). Could the break booster be the cause of it assuming vacuum in engine will be sucking in oil into the cylinder and burning it. If it can do I need to replace my break booster vacuum pump as well assuming this is the starting point of how the oil got inside the vacuum power booster in the first place assuming that the vacuum pump's one way valve has failed?
Thanks for checking out the video...Are you experiencing any brake problems such as caliper sticking, hard brake peddle, or leaks? The brake booster shouldn't have any relation to the white smoke. It is possible that your PCV valve is clogged and oil is getting past around valve and burring....creating white smoke?
just starting I don't lose much oil, it's still in the range and I don't have a whole lot of smoke yet. Eventually it'll be bad. time for rebuild or upgrade
I have a 2005 hyaundai sonata and yesterday my brakes locked up out of nowhere, I pulled vacuum line off and it released brake when I hooked back up car ran fine a few miles then locked up again if you have any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it, I replaced booster but still doing it
Jesse Brown Thanks for watching & it’s possible that your calipers need to be replaced. This is a very common symptom of a seized caliper. Keep us posted. 😎👍🔧🔩
Jesse Brown Thanks for the reply. In most cases, after the caliper begins to stick, the entire caliper & pads will heat up pretty fast. You can check each front wheel & see if you smell burning or feel uncommonly high heat from a few inches away. 😎👍🔧🔩
Absolutely a possibility. It can also be a faulty idle sensor. Below is a link to our video showing replacement of sensor. czcams.com/video/6tKhTSWJCzA/video.html 😎👍
Neo Thanks for watching & sharing your experience Neo. Have you performed any maintenance to your brake system in last 12 months. If yes, this will allow us to see if any recent repairs are tied to your brake symptoms. At slow speeds, is your brake pedal loose...? If brake pedal is not firm on tension when pressing, you may be low on fluid or have a leak somewhere. Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Let me clarify, if I brake for the first time then the brakes go well, but as soon as I take my foot off the pedal and then right after that brake again, the brakes no longer work as well so "pumping braking" is a disaster with a small amount of brake pressure, very dangerous! the brakes need a few seconds to recover .. so i must not use my brakes at all for a moment before the brakes work properly again
Neo Thanks for the reply. We recommend starting engine and going to the front of the car with the hood open and trying to listen for any hissing or whistling sounds. If you hear hissing or whistling sounds...you have a vacuum leak in one of your vacuum lines feeding off of your actual brake booster. Once you locate the possible hole, you’ll want to visit your local AutoZone and have your vacuum line matched and have it replaced. Let’s start there, keep us posted. The next troubleshooting options will be the master brake cylinder or the actual brake booster. 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Just bought a second hand vacuum pump. I checked all those things you mentioned and didn't find anything strange. And i know for sure the master cilinder booster is also fine becouse that can easely be tested, at cold start when the brake pedal is "hard" as soon i start the engine the brake pedal goes down so that means its not broken or failing (according to many proffesionals on forums) and also as I said before the first time braking is fine .. Its the braking again right thereafter giving issues. So I think the vacuum pump is failing and cant deliver enough vacuum for a second brake!. I'm installing it tomorrow and then let you know the result, Fingers crossed🤞
Thanks for the reply Neo, Let’s work through some troubleshooting items! 1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely. 2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth. 3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from the inside as opposed to the outside. This means the inner coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely. 4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements. We have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep us posted! Links to all of our helpful step-by-step videos explaining the above possible causes are below, definitely check those out! 😎👍🔧🔩 1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication: czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s 2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir: czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39 3. Failing Front Brake Lines: czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78 4. Brake Pads not shifting: czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s 5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers: czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83 6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing: czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 7. Failing Brake Booster: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html 8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve: czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ 9. Master Brake Cylinder info czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
Here's a question for you, if you're still answering- I drive a 1988 Dodge omni. Has about 110-115k. Car is old enough to not have ABS (don't know if that matters). Rotors in the front drums in the rear. Noticed my brakes felt weak and spongy. Thought maybe air got into the lines (after previously replacing pads and bleeding system) so I had the master cylinder replaced. Brakes stopped feeling squishy but still didn't feel like they were stopping correctly. Noticed my rotors were very worn to I just had them replaced (literally about two days ago). Brakes now feel more solid and also don't pulse anymore. But braking still feels inadequate. While doing city speeds (20-35) car feels like it's braking fine. But at 40+ I gotta really press on them sons o bitches to get the braking force to stop in time. Sometimes it feels normal others it's that press harder feeling. In your opinion do you think it's my booster or calipers?
Micro USB Thanks for watching & sharing your experience. Calipers almost always fail the opposite...meaning when they finally call it quits, they begin sticking & locking brakes. This leans us toward your Booster & check valve...or a vacuum leak. We recommend starting your engine and listening for any hissing sounds coming from any and all lines that feed to your booster. If you hear hissing, head to AutoZone where you can purchase a replacement line. If no hissing, it’s possible that you have a failed check valve that is connected to your vacuum line feeding off of your booster. Let’s start there. 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders So I haven't got to pick at the car yet. But I noticed today that there's and audible hissing from under my dash that seems to disappear when I press on the brake. Considering that hissing is often associated with a vaccum leak and the car is 30+ years old I feel it's safe to say it's something to do with the booster. Thoughts?
Micro USB Thanks for the update & that’s a great observation & you may need a new Booter. 30 year old booster gets 👍👍 from us. Hopefully your new booster will last just as long if not longer. 😎👍🔧🔩
02 nissan xterra. Yesterday brake pedal got hard and harder. Every time I pushed it, there's this noise of air escaping.. do I need to change the whole brake vacuum? Made it home driving under 15mph and by a miracle.
Thanks for watching & we appreciate you sharing your experience. A few things can cause this, Booster being one of them. Before anything, we recommend starting your engine and opening up your hood. Next, carefully listen to your engine near the booster. Try to pinpoint the hissing sound and where exactly it’s coming from. You may just have a hole in a vacuum line which can be replaced very easily and won’t cost much money. It may also be as simple as needing to lubricate your caliper slides. Below is a link that talks more about this. czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html Keep us posted on your project.
Thanks for watching, great question. The Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) is mounted to Brake Booster…which is the actual part directly related to vacuum system while engine is running. Your MBC is mounted to Booster so to answer your question, yes. It’s possible that the MBC is causing issues. Check out the link below as it may help. czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html 😎👍
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders thanks. I thought it might. I had a mechanic install just the booster because I was having an issue where the car would accelerate briefly while braking. It turns out the booster was the cause of this. But I still have sort of a choppy idle that feels as if the car is about to stall intermittently. Could the brake vacuum master cylinder be the culprit and could my new brake booster be damaged if there is still a vacuum leak in another section? Also would the check valve cause any issue with this? Or would a check valve issue be more obvious.
@@Dnasty1 Thanks for the reply, it’s possible that your Idle Position Sensor has malfunctioned. Below is a link to our video showing us replacing ours on our Dodge Dakota. czcams.com/video/6tKhTSWJCzA/video.html 😎👍
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I believe I changed that but I suspect braking system to be the culprit because when I step on the brakes I can see the rpm’s jump a little bit briefly at idle. Also the way that the idle is choppy has gotten slightly less worse now that the booster was changed. Was wondering if maybe there’s a leak somewhere else in the system. When the car shakes at idle the rpm needle also does not move it’s like a mini misfire
I have a 1996 Ram 1500 and I'm now noticing a loud sucking air sound when hitting the brakes I'm leaning towards the booster because the pedal goes low and lots of effort to stop.
Thanks for watching. This is a follow up on the question related to my other video. I think your on your way to having to replace that booster. The hissing sound is usually signs of leakage into booster. Double check that fluid in the reservoir to see if its lowering in quantity without any leaks. Keep me posted. Please Subscribe thanks!
DIY With Michael Borders will do going to get one in the morning. Was trying to avoid that as I'm piecing together a hydro boost setup but gotta get it.
Chris Atkinson Bummer....the poor truck is running you down the famous Rabbit race "🐰 🏁 "....no fun. Master cylinder is next. I just presented your and my conversation to a friend of mine. He and I talked more about the squishy aspect you're experiencing. As you know...the Master Cylinder is what regulates the fluid to and from all brake elements. The internal gaskets and wafer/bellows fail over time which will lead to the cylinder not holding the required pressure. The inner parts are no longer able to withstand the guidance of the pressure needed to move that fluid. He and I feel replacing the Master Cylinder should catch the 🐰. 😀👍
My brake pedal got hard. I watched some videos and replaced the pump. It was broken inside. But the new one made the car work fine again. But the same day on the way home my pedal got hard again. I checked the pump and no suction.im guessing its broken again but why?
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. It’s very possible that you have a caliper in its early stages of failure. After you notice the brake getting harder during driving, we recommend inspecting the front wheels to see which wheel is giving off an aggressive amount of heat. You’ll be able to feel the heat without touching it, we recommend not touching it as it will be very hot. The wheel thats really hot will be the wheel that needs the caliper to be replaced. Keep us posted, us DIYers need to stick together!!!
When i tool off the hose and put my finger over the opening i didnt feel any suction. Should i open up the front plate and check to see if the paddle didnt break? First
@@juliusgonwild2478 Thanks for the reply, while the engine is running, do you hear any hissing sounds coming from the lines that feed off your brake booster inside engine compartment? If so, pinpoint the line that is leaking and have that replaced. A leak in your vacuum system can cause these symptoms as well.
That would be foolish why not actually diagnose the problem and start with the simple obvious things, such as the valve that's a 5usd part and it might be the culprit (which often is especially with older vehicles) of your issue.
Hi mate enjoyed your video, i got problem for last 18 months if i push brake down slowly it will go to floor, but i push fast it good, i double push brake, i been to two brake shops and they just want to start changing parts starting at the master, which i didnt do. its 2008 holden commodore look the same as a G8 Pontiac, any help cheers Graham.
Thanks for checking out the video. Indeed that can be your seals as mentioned by EnergyInventor. This is definitely an annoying issue. Master cylinders range in prices and a new one is recommended rather than purchasing one from a junk yard! However a junk yard part doesn't need to be 100% ruled out! Thanks again for watching!
You do NOT want to run without the valve, It is a one-way valve that allows air to be sucked out of the booster, but does not allow air to enter it. This is a safety solution to ensure that if the engine is turned off, or if frequent stops or pedal presses are required, the brakes still operate. Its capacity ensures that you have enough boost for several brake applications. I would not mess around with it and spend the couple of bucks it actually cost.
Russell Touchstone Thanks for watching Russell! That’s a great question! As you know, the check valve regulates the amount of vacuum pressure to-&-from brake booster. In the event that the check valve fails, you will experience a higher chance of brakes locking up. What exactly are you experiencing with your brake system? Also has there been any recent maintenance done to the brake system in the last 12 months? This will help us try to pinpoint whether or not your brake issue has anything to do with Recent repairs. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again Russell! 😎👍🔧🔩
DIY With Michael Borders Thanks for the response. Yes there was maintenance done couple days ago. I put a new stoplight brake switch in. Turns out that was the problem. I just slapped it in and never adjusted it. There was play in the pedal so I didn't think anything of it. After driving it for about ten minutes the break fluid heats up and needs to expand pushing on the brake peddle. After adjusting my switch to give the pedal room to fully expand everything works great.
Russell Touchstone Awesome & Thanks for the update Russell. Glad to hear you have it fixed! Let us know if you have any additional questions along the way! We have had our number of brake repairs over the years! That’s what I get for driving old rusty vehicles haha! 😎👍
DIY With Michael Borders I have a 2001 Hyundai Sonata I replaced the brake calipers front pads and front brake hoses and after bleeding the brakes my pedal is is hard I still have power assist but they brakes keep on locking up and I don't know how to make them stop locking up
Dwayne Garrett Thanks for checking out the video. What happens to your brake pedal after starting engine? Is Pedal hard right from the get go or does it take a few pumps to harden...Also have you had any recent repairs to your brake system? Please Subscribe to the channel. Keep me posted 😎👍
So I have a problem I can not solve I have replaced master cylinder because of soft squishy breaks and bled the lines and even replaced the rear drum brakes wheel cylinder in both wheels But my new master cylinder is doing the exact same thing the old one was, it keeps blowing bubbles in the Reservoir on the brake master cylinder and I can't seem to figure out why it is doing that if you may know please get back to me thank you
Brenden Covington What’s up Brenden? Thanks for watching & sharing your experience. Let’s get this figured out together! The first thing that comes to mind is a possible leak with your Brake Booster. After replacing all your parts...& refilling brake reservoir with fluid, have you noticed the fluid decreasing over a few days or weeks? If so, it’s very possible that your Brake Booster has a tiny leak & is allowing brake fluid to enter the Booster...which causes small bubbling within the system! Let’s do a test on the Booster! Below is a link to a video that shows step-by-step process on testing your Booster! czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html Let’s start there! Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders well I did exactly what you did in the brake booster video and my brake booster did exactly what you're did so at this point I'm clueless what could be causing the bubbles
Brenden Covington Thanks for the update Brenden! The next step is your Master Brake Cylinder. ..(MBC) Your MBC has seals inside the housing & over time, these little seals can warp & no longer create the proper sealing requirements to work properly & efficiently. With that said, once a seal warps, it can lead to tiny air bubbles forming in your reservoir. We recommend contacting a few of your local repair shops & getting some quotes for a new MBC. Inform them that you are calling several shops to get the best & most affordable price...in hopes that they will acknowledge that & give you an awesome deal. However you can skip all this in the event that you feel comfortable replacing your MBC yourself. If you go this route, make sure that you properly bleed the MBC separately from the brake system... meaning bench bleeding with it not connecting to vehicle. Keep us posted! We are convinced that this may be your issue! 😎👍🔧🔩
Brenden Covington Also, we have attached a link to a video that shows and explains a little more about the Master Brake Cylinder...definitely check that out! czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders well I have already put a brand new master cylinder on the truck and it's still doing the same thing, blowing bubbles. I'm really lost at this point id say I'm clueless on what it would be..
Thank you for this video! My sc400 brakes went out last night on the highway, I'm glad it's not something expensive!
Hey there thanks for viewing. Did you fix the check valve and brakes worked like normal again?
OP, you are a new hero of mine! Just a few bucks for the Brake Booster Check Valve and 20-second install cured my issue. Thanks man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
michael lanphier That’s awesome news and thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment michael...Glad the video helped... Brake problems are definitely annoying and it’s always good to get the vehicle back on the road soon with good brakes and at an affordable price too haha! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again michael 😎👍
Same here! Diagnosed and fixed the problem in no time!
Hi, watched the video and read through some comments and see that you appreciate details when people ask a question - understandable! So here's the quick background... 2003 Chevy Tracker. Bought a year ago and a week later had a breakline blowout. Not wanting to take any chances, I had all lines and hoses replaced. A couple days ago, started the car, applied the brakes before shifting it into gear - pedal hard for maybe half a second, then gave, and acted normal. Drove and braked fine during a 10 mile trip home. The following morning, checked the fluid level and found it was just above the minimum line. Filled it to the maximum line. Brakes continued to act fine for the next couple days, then this morning did the same thing, though not quite as hard as the first time. Brake fluid level does not appear to have dropped at all. In both cases the brakes acted perfectly fine after the initial hardness. With the vehicle running (but naturally not in gear, lol!), I weighted the brake pedal all the way down and had a long hard look underneath... no sign of a leak, and no wet spots after moving the car. I did have a smoke test done a month or two before it happened the first time, and I know the smoke machine was hooked up to the vacuum brake booster hose during that. That's everything I can think of in terms of work done that could affect the brakes. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Ghost
Thanks for checking out the video & sharing your experience Ghost! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎
It can be a few different things...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Sounds like a booster or check valve issue.
Hi Michael! Finally someone who speaks slowly and clearly. LOL My 99 4Runner has been having intermittent hard press, difficult to stop, stiff pedal braking, while other times it is fine. Do you think that would more than likely be the check valve or the booster? That booster is $300-$400! Yikes! Thanks for your very informative videos! Mike
Great tip. Worked perfect on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Kirk Arnold
Great to hear & we appreciate you sharing. Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together.
😎👍🔧🔩
Thanks for sharing this. I have exactly the same symptoms on my 2007 Jeep. I’m going to replace the entire booster and master cylinder plus flush the fluid. It’s got 207k miles so thinking it’s about time anyway. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks for watching & that’s a great idea. We appreciate you sharing this. Looking forward to hearing back from you as you work through your project.
Let us know if you have any questions.
😎👍🔧🔩
I have a question.
My brake pedal is very hard to push and one of the calipers won’t release the pressure on the pads.
Any idea what might be the problem?
It’s a bran new caliper and replaced it because it was doing the exact same thing
@@nathanvega6281 if you have a JK with antilock brakes that could be something to look for. ABS module can set pressure to a single wheel if the sensors direct it to. Check for ABS codes. Might learn something that way.
Hi thanks for the video it saved me lot of money after to presses on my brake pedal it went hard and I couldn't press it I looked at my brake fluid and it seemed a little high so I took some out and it worked I can now press my brake pedal with out it going hard thanks
Tracy Johnso
Awesome Awesome & Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment Tracy! We are glad the video helped. Let us know if you have any additional questions along the way we are here to help! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome thanks again Tracy! 😎👍🔧🔩
man THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! you're the shit. you just kept me from replacing an abs sensor and booster
randy scheurer
Very cool & we are happy the video helped. Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together. You can put that money towards something else.
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders you nailed 👌 I'm saving for a down payment for a house, therefore every penny helps. Bless you 🙏
Jason Perez
Very cool & congrats on the new house when that time comes!
😎👍🔧🔩
I had just replaced the coil pack on our 2003 Ford Windstar and then the brakes got hard ? I had no idea what had happened. After some thinking, I went out and looked at the check valve. The hose had, unbeknownst to me, gotten pulled off. Oddly, the engine ran worse after replacing the coil pack ! Yup...you guessed it ! Hooking up the vacuum line, stopping that vacuum leak, cured the missing problem too. ;
Dennis Wright That's awesome Dennis! 😀. Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment and experience. Brake problems are definitely annoying as you know haha. Glad you're back on the road and doing good. It's incredible how many parts are required to work in tune together at the same time to make a vehicle drive safely and efficiently. Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your notifications that would be awesome thanks again Dennis 😎👍
Hi, Michael Borders. I have a 2000 Hyundai Elantra, no ABS. The brakes are locking up intermittently in stop and go traffic for the last few months. So, I removed the front tires. The brake pads were locked solid and the rotor wont rotate at all. Front-driver side brake and wheel was blistering hot, front-passenger side was less hot. Back brakes were not hot. When the wheel/brake lock up, the brake pedal is stuck at the up position. Pressing with a lot of force wont make the brake pedal go down. The car drags.
15 minutes after turning the engine off, the brake pedal would go down a little bit. After 30 minutes everything becomes normal, the brake pedal goes down and up normally, the car drives normally afterwards for the rest of the day.
The car also runs louder than before. Rotating the steering wheel to the right diminishes the road noise partially.
People gave me a big list of things that could be causing this. After this locking issue started happening, over the last few months I replaced the following parts:
1. New brake pads and shoes on all 4 with new hardware.
2. New rubber brake hoses in both front brakes.
3. New wheel cylinders in both back brakes.
4. New caliper with piston assembly in front driver side. Passenger side is fine.
5. New wheel bearing in front driver side (there was visible smoke from front driver wheel when it first happened). Other bearings should be fine because there is no play or movement.
6. New cheap Chinese tires on all 4.
7. Bled a large bottle of new brake fluid through the system.
None of the above fixed the problem. Any ideas what may me be causing this intermittent brake locking issue?
kmihmisc gmail Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment & experience. The information that you provided is awesome for me to help pinpoint the problem. Let’s figure this out!
With several new parts, we can alleviate several parts that it can be...after reading over your comment, it leaves us with a few options.
1. Master Brake Cylinder (MBC)
As you know, the MBC controls the flow of the Brake Fluid to & from all parts connected to system. In the event that the MBC begins to work intermittently or fail all together, you will notice a major down grade in Brake System performance such as you have. Replacing your MBC may help solve your issue. Below is a link to a video that shows more about the MBC
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
2. Your Brake Booster
Your Brake Booster is an extremely important part of your Brake System as well. It controls the tension/resistance of your peddle as uses vacuum lines to properly manage the pressure. When your brake booster becomes faulty you will experience symptoms such as yours. I would check into any leaks in Vacuum lines as well as any “Hissing” sound. You will also want to check your Check Valve.
Also, I have 1 important question...are you having to add brake fluid to your reservoir on a regular basis & at the same time, you haven’t seen any leaks or can figure out where the fluid is going...?? I ask because if the answer is yes...your fluid is leaking into the Brake Booster & that will definitely need to be replaced!
Keep us posted!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
@DIYwithMichaelBorders ik this is an old video as I'm having g same issue as person you replied too on civic...changed and put over a grand into brand new brake components and new MBC...no leaks or lost of fluids yet if it hot outside or I go to far my brakes still want to get hot and lock till it rest and cool off could it be check valve
2010 Nissan Altima started to have a very sensitive brakes. Meaning if you drive slow approaching a stop light and apply a light pressure it will 95% of the time grab quickly. I always need to pay attention to how much I'm pressing so I won't hit my head on the steering wheel. lol! New pads and rotors, good amount of brake fluid, no visible oil leak in the line at the wheels. I didn't check the master cylinder and booster yet for leaks. Most forums who has the same sensitive brakes never report solutions, they keep saying pad, rotors or oil leak. Hope you encounter this similar problem. Thanks
pricelessclips
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎
It can be a few different things...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks for the reply! I will start working on them and will report back. :)
pricelessclips
Very cool & we are standing ready to help with any questions you may have!
Keep us posted!
😎👍🔧🔩
Hey man. turn the volume down on your intro tune please. it's like 500 times louder than your video volume.
SpicePistols Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment...So True...in my new videos, I definitely changed the volume on the intro. Sorry about that. Hope the video helped. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
Mine ranger when I press the brakes it's really loose and has little to no brakes I just replaced the lines and habe the booster out I just would like to find out why asap
jerry gades Thanks for checking out the video jerry! Besides the recent repairs, has there been any other repairs to the brake system in the last year?
It’s possible that your Master Brake Cylinder “MBC” is beginning to fail. As you know, the MBC controls the proper flow & pressure of the brake fluid. Once the MCB begins to fail you will experience symptoms such as yours...loose and lazy pedal...
It’s also possible that Booster is beginning to fail... by chance have you noticed your brake fluid level going down without experiencing or noticing any leaks underneath the vehicle? In the event that your brake fluid is mysteriously going down and disappearing and you can’t find any leaks...This could be an indication that your brake fluid has begun to leak into the poster which means your boosters family and you couldn’t experience symptoms such as yours. Keep me posted.
Below is a link to a video that explains a little bit about MBC
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
Ok thanks my dad said he know how to check the master cylinder so I'll see if that's bad I just replaced the calipers and brake lines and then found out that it's still not working +1 sub
jerry gades Thanks for the update jerry! That’s cool. Let me know if you have any questions in the mean time. Thanks for subscribing! I just subscribed to you 😎👍
My 09 Honda Accord brake pedal feel really hard.i changed the brake booster but it's still hard.what should I do it won't move
i have a 2002 s10 4.3 4x4 blew brake line replaced and bled now dont have power assits pedal hard before start truck start truck and pedal goes to floor no power from booster any ideas thank you
Changed fluid and bled front and back Tuesday night and brakes are great now.... So keep that in mind
That's great. Thanks for the update. This will definitely help! 😀. I'm thrilled you're brakes are back on your good side.
I bought a new brake booster and it came with a fake valve just something to connect the vacuum hose to I took it off and blew in it nothing happened I just went right through I put the old one back on and now it breaks like never before I bought the brake booster from O'Reilly
I got a 95' Nissan Pathfinder, my brake pedal stiffens more as my engine heats up, and relaxes as the engine cools. The pedal will get so stiff to the point where my car will ride on the brakes as I'm trying to drive, making my engine heat up quicker causing more pressure on the breaks. occasionally if the engine isn't too hot I can pull the pedal upwards with my foot to relieve the breaks just enough to get the car moving fast enough to cool the engine
JungleTrooper
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎
It can be a few different things...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Id like to add, the rare but as it just happened to me after changing all the caliper seals! Very possible chance of the booster solely failing and getting stuck in boost mode, which causes the brakes to gradually lock up 5-10 miles down the road once the pressure builds.1 Used booster and the same check valve, same master cyl, bled t brake lines and were of, no more lockup and Super responsive braking(then again I drove for a week with no booster an let me tell ya, Sorta kinda fun if it wasn't so dangerous and cumbersome haha)
Socknetea
Thanks so much for sharing your info! That is definitely awesome & helpful info for all of us! We really appreciate you taking the time to reach out to us!
We are happy to hear that you had a good time with your DIY project, we love that!
Keep us posted with any questions you may have along the way, we are here to help!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
I got 1993 Chevy G30 Motorhome. Every time I press on the brake the engine shuts off. When engine off and pumping brake 5 times it gets harder and harder. Im assuming the hydrobrake booster is bad? Yes, I have a hydrobooster. Any info would really help. Trying to get it running for my dad before it gets towed. I appreciate it!
Thanks for watching Scott! This is definitely more common than most think! Lets figure this out!
Open the Hood and do a thorough check of all your vacuum lines that go in and out of the booster as well as run along the firewall. You most likely have a leak somewhere in the lines which is allowing air to vacate the system and cause the lack of efficient operation of the Brake System..and is leading to your engine dying!
After doing that...turn on the Air Condition. Let me know if the engine bogs down or stalls...
In the event that you try these steps and find no leaks...the next item we will need to check is the Brake Booster as you mentioned. There is an internal Diaphragm inside Booster and once it begins to leak or ruptures all together...you will experience engine stalls when applying brakes!
Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again Scott! Talk to you Soon!
My brake pedal just started getting stiff and now when I’m on the highway my vehicle shakes like crazy. My brakes were just replace like 2000 miles ago.
Snowman3g
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎
It can be a few different things...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
the vacumn booster well bust if you bleed brakes with motor off. while bleeding brakes dont push hard to fast
winston ledford Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment Winston. Great info and very important! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
This is the first hearing this,wonder why it's never mentioned even by professional.
Lol! It absolutely won't break if you bleed the brakes with the engine off. 1000s of vehicles over the last 20 years, not a single booster busted.
hello , i have a 1996 4 runner, 6-7 months ago i did have brake work done .. to date , i have a had brake , how can you know if it is the whole booster it self or just the check valve .. do you have a video to show how to replace the check valve
Hi vera, thanks for checking out the video. Absolutely. Lets figure this out! Below is a link to three videos that will help. Keep me posted. Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! :-)
1. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
2. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
3. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Thanks this just happened to my f-350 today
Richard Reagan
Hey Richard, thanks for watching. Hopefully you’re back up and running.
😎👍🔧🔩
Hi, I have a 99 dodge ram 1500, am I'm having trouble with my brakes. My brake pedal sometimes tends to lock in place for a second or 2, when pushing it down and then release to come to a stop. Also when I push down on the brake pedal, the pedal sometimes starts clicking while it goes down to a stop. I tried looking into it, and I just ordered a new master cylinder to see if that was the problem. Please let me know if you now what the exact problem is. Thanks.
Whats up Christopher...A few things to look at first.
First...has there been any work done to the brakes in the last year? Most of the time you run into clicking noises as well as inconsistent movement of the brake pedal...its due to improper installation of the actual brake pads...funny but true. In the event that you have recently had your pads replaced...Its possible that you will need to take them out and verify they are installed properly
Second...if your Caliper / pads have any misc brake pad clips, they will need to be inspected to verify correct installation. Please keep me posted. Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again Christopher!
What if your breaks are working fine then after a good distance drive it gets stiff barely wants to stop the vehicle then goes back to normal
Jeffery Wilson
Thanks for checking out the video & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎
It can be a few different things...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
i have an 02 envoy, just today i went to leave, but when i turned the key... nothing happened.. then mt key got locked in the ignitiin, my auto shifter locked and my break pedal wont budge!!
what the heck?!?!
my key is still stuck in the ignition! i can push the shifter release button but truck wont even start anyway...
So any suggestions appreciated... or a starting point to begin trouble shooting?
Thanks for checking out the video Amanda, In some cases, shifting the wheel back and forth a little more aggressively can release it. Also, a simple tap from a pair of pliers or a gentle tap from a hammer can drop the pin inside the ignition...releasing the lock on the key. Once key is stuck, this can lead to all sorts of issues as you are experiencing. If key lock releases key after taping on it...you should be ok...however with the Envoy, there might be a small hole that you can access the key lock pin. I have heard of a few people in the past spraying WD40 in the hole however you want to be very careful you don't harm anything else in the process.
Keep me posted...Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
I have a 83 Crown Victoria LTD...the brake pedal will go down but at a certain position it's harden and want go no more and the car takes longer to stop...it also sound like air in the brake pedal when I press it...what can I do to fix this?? Thanks!!!
Thanks for checking out the video. The sound of "air Hissing" in the brake pedal is almost always an indication of a Brake Booster beginning to fail. The Booster as you know helps manage the efficiency of the force/tension of the pedal...which in the end, makes it easier for you to push. Any leak in the seals/booster will interrupt the efficiency of the system. Keep me posted. Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
What about when you hear an air sound every time you let go of the brake pedal???
Alfredo Guzman
Thanks for watching Alfredo, great question! Any signs or sounds of air leaking is almost always tied to two parts...
1. A leak in your Brake Booster. Your Brake Booster is a contributing part to your Vacuum System. If your Booster’s diaphragm’s are worn out, you may experience an air leak... & may hear the sound of leaking air when pressing the brake pedal. Below is a link to our video that shows step-by-step process on testing your Booster.
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
2. Leaking Vacuum Line. A leaking vacuum line will cause air to be released however it will make a “hissing sound”. We recommend starting your engine & doing a thorough inspection of all vacuum lines feeding out of Booster & try to see if you have a leak. If you find a leak, we recommend going to your local AutoZone & purchasing a new vacuum line.
Let’s start there, keep us posted!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
Have a 2005 Silverado, feels like back set of brakes release about 1 sec. late on a stop. have 4 new pads, hoses up front, new calipers , bleed lines , same trouble, off and on, mostly when brake the first few times ?? pleas help
Howard Hilscher
Thanks for watching Howard & sharing your experience. We have seen this in the past. Let’s get this figured out! 😀
Since you have several new parts, & have properly bled the brake system...it’s very possible that your check valve that is along the brake lines that feed to your rear wheels is catching / sticking.
We recommend re-bleeding your entire brake system. Although it can be annoying and a pain, this is what usually fixes the issue.
That check valve regulates the flow of fluid & will definitely disrupt & degrade your brake system performance and reliability when it sticks.
Let’s start there! Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome thanks again Howard! 😎👍🔧🔩
I got ? ,On 2008 pt crusier dose it have two line's, or just one, because it has a nipple on one, & there's a hose on another, some thing is missing on the other third pipe , I don't know if it has another nipple or hose? That's on the brake booster.
Mark Miguel Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your experience Mark! That’s a great question! There should be vacuum lines connected to all connection points!
With the engine running, and slowly applying pressure to brake pedal...do you hear hissing sounds or whistling sounds? If so...then you will want to replace all vacuum lines with new lines! Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍🔧🔩
if the pedal as you drive becomes stiff to press does this cause yor breaks to be compressed in the front possible
John Lee
Thanks for checking out the video! This is definitely not uncommon!
It can be a few different things....lets get this figured out together and get you bak on the road safely! My initial thought is your Calipers are beginning to stick. Below are several options it can be...Lets do This!
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
No. If ur pedal gets stiff, it doesn’t cause any brakes to compress at the wheels. You still should have perfect brakes. You just no longer have power on your brakes.
Basically going back to old school cars. No power brakes
I changed my rear brake pads the other day (one of the pads on the drivers side was thin
but the other 3 were OK). I noticed when I opened the drivers side caliper bleeder valve to push the piston back in, no brake fluid came out unlike when I did the other side but the piston did go back in easily. I took the car for a test drive and now I get a slight whooshing sound when I press the brake pedal (NOTE: its not a hissing sound). The brakes work fine and the pedal doesn’t feel spongy, its just that whooshing sound which it didn’t make before. I can hear it when Im sitting in the car but its louder coming from the engine compartment. I bled all the brakes, no air came out just solid fluid but the same thing still happens. Theres no leaks as the brake fluid is still at Max level and I dont see any evidence of leaking.
.
I did a couple of brake booster tests, turned the car on for a while then turned it off, pressed the brake pedal a few times then turned the car back on and the pedal sunk as per normal. Next I turned the car on and let it idle for a while then pressed the brake pedal and turned the car off, the pedal still stays down after about 30 seconds. Finally I turned the car on, then when turned off I pressed the brake pedal a few times, it did get a little firmer each time but you can still press the pedal down if you keep pumping the brake but the noise stops after the first two pumps.
Hey there did you manage to get that fixed because my car started to do the same and i dont know whats going on Kind Regards
@@arnolombard6065 no but apparently that is ok as the brake still work.
My SUV is doing the same. However it's got 330k on it. Now for what my research has found. It could possibly be in the ABS system. That's what I'm thinking with mine. The Breaking is fine and firm, but when push softly to stop at low speeds. I hear it, but still breaks just fine. Maybe it's a check value in the ABS. I'm not changing it either.
@@andreroy8141 mines still all good. The noise isn't as loud as it was before so I'm not fussing about it now.
2001 Honda Civic just replaced the master cylinder and the caliper but as your driving down the road the brake pedal still gets hard again. Help ?
Big Clout
Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your experience. Brake problems are annoying for sure. Lets figure this out.
As far as your brakes locking up...NO FUN...we’ve all been there.
It can be a few different things....
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Please help when I cut the car on my brakes get pressure but when I cut he engine on the pressure goes completely away.
David Thompson
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience, what’s your update?
Are you experiencing a hard brake pedal after a few minutes of driving?
Keep us posted!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
The car is a 2015 Suzuki Vitara SZ5. I'm not sure if its available in the US. The only thing it has been back to the dealer for is a recall here in the UK for rear axle bolts. Apparently the original ones were marginally short so they replaced them with longer bolts. This issue is really frustrating me.
Definitely frustrating...Im going to provide a couple links that may lead to your issue. These are quick things you can do at home.
I have attached a few options that may cause this. Check out the vides and let me know if you have run into any of these issues.
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
Thanks for video. Walked out popped hood and found vacuum hose wasn’t connected
Sharla Duncan
Thanks for watching & we appreciate that. Hopefully you’re back up and running. Let us know if you have any questions.
😎👍🔧🔩
My 2012 Altima locks up the front brakes, first the driver side starting smoking, then I stopped to let it cool, then started again to get it home. Right inside the garage with 2 feet of the car still outside I heard a thud on the passenger side and that side smoked. The car wouldn't move because the passenger side was completely locked. The abs light also turned on when the car was still moving. Do you think the check valve is the culprit or the brake hose on both sides are clogged? I did notice when replacing the driver side caliper that the fluid didn't drip much out of the hose. Haven't taken off the hose from the passenger side.
John Sturgess
Thanks for watching & it’s more likely that your brake line is causing issues. We recommend replacing brake line. Next, properly refill brake reservoir with new fluid. Next, bleed brakes. Keep us posted!
Let us know if you have any questions. Many more helpful videos to come! 😀
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
I have a 1989 chevy c7000 I change the brake power booster and master cylinder now my brake pedal is hard when I push down it only goes down about 1 inch, any idea what the problem might be?
Maggie Rodriguez
Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment & experience Maggie! Let’s get this figured out!
Did you properly Bleed your Master Brake Cylinder? Most people Bleed the Master Brake Cylinder prior to installing onto vehicle however it can be done with it already in vehicle...
Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome thanks again Maggie 😎👍🔧🔩
you have to adjust the booster itself whenever it's replaced
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079QGXY55
Me I had problem on the engine RPM, it fluctuates whenever I push or release the brake, and it becoming worse, in addition, after stopping the vehicle for 7 hours, the brake becomes hard to push, when you want to start the engine by using start button , meaning the booster loose the vacuum after stopping the engine in about 8 hours, meaning I have small vacuum leak, but it affect the engine performance, specially when I push or release the brake, so I suspected the booster seals are going bad.
Thanks for watching, any recent repairs done to brake system or suspension? This will help us determine whether or not any recent repairs are tied to issues. Keep us posted.
Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our newly launched DIY ecosystem.
Toolboxtoken.com
Reach out to us any time! 🧰
My pedal hardens up after 10 20 minutes only in the afternoon.... front brakes just lock up... did the pump your brake test and it relieve the tension and drove home no problem
Thanks for checking out the video...This is an annoying issue that thousands of us car owners run into at some point along the way. Have you had any brake repairs done in recent times? A few people I have talked to have had this happen due to recent brake repair.
I just bought it so no... I did notice a blue paint dot on the brake switch and on the booster. I'm thinking this guy tried to fix it at some point. I seen some guy adjust the position of the switch and it help him.
Ok interesting. The previous owner didn't provide any list of repairs he/she have completed while they owned it. Have you inspected your caliper slides to see if they are fluctuating properly?
Michael, we have a 2010 Acura TSX - when it's cold outside the brake pedal is hard and doesn't brake till the car warms up or we pump the brakes many times then it works perfectly fine... Ideas?? TIA
William Butts
Thanks for watching & we hope you enjoyed the video. It can be a few different things however you may have a Booster in its early stages of failure.
It’s also possible that your Master Brake Cylinder is beginning to fail.
Many more helpful videos to come! 😀
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
Just want to know i have a celica 2004 at the time i was driveing it it was hesitating kept turning off and a nasty pop sound happen and smoke was everywere then my pedel got hard
Can someone explane what happen i would really appreciate it
Monokuma Despair
Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your experience! Let’s get this figured out!
A popping noise can be several things inside an engine however since your brake pedal got hard, we need to focus on your entire Brake System!
Where exactly did the smoke generate? Was it down near front wheels?
Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
I have a 98 Chevy Tahoe and I have a new booster on it and every time I crank my truck that check valve is seeping air lights and have my truck running idle missing light how can I fix that check valve to stop from leaking
Thanks for watching & what’s your update? Is the check valve new? Keep us posted.
what if i just replaced the vacuum booster? ( may have to replace the master cylinder as well) took it for a test drive. Brakes were soft for the first mile. all of a sudden became stiff and brakes began to lock up. had to limp it back home. thoughs?
DeoVindice After driving awhile, did you notice if either of the front brakes/tires were heating up far above normal...maybe making cracking noises? Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome thanks again 😀👍
Same issue. The front brakes are heating up more than normal
Is there a part number for the brake booster check valve? Can’t find one at our local automotive box stores. The Dakota has ports for 2 vacuum hoses. Can only find check valve’s with one port for one vacuum hose.
Thanks for watching, what year is your Dakota? You can reference the part link below.
amzn.to/3VbKiDE
If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below, I earn from qualifying purchases.
😁👍🧰
2003, thanks 4 the link.
@@jeffnwv3976
We are happy to help.
Hi, I have a 10 month old car that all of a sudden the brake pedal goes hard after leaving vehicle for more than 3 hours or of course overnight. The booster is working as the pedal gets assist as soon as the engine starts up. As the vehicle is under warranty I returned to the dealer who tells me there is no problem with the car. Do you think there could be a problem with the check valve?
John Aspin Hi there John, thanks for checking out the video. This can be frustrating as you experience these issues and at the same time...Mechanics tell you everything is ok...
Has there been any recent MX repairs completed to vehicle in last 24 months? What year/make/and model is the vehicle?
I have a 2000 Silverado and when I'm turning, like going through the McDonald's drive thru or even just parking. my brake pedal completely hardens up. there is no moving it, which in turn leaves me with no brakes....at all. eventually there is a loud clanking noise and I get it back. I was told from a few people that it was the brake booster, does this sound right?
Whats up Jason...brakes issues are definitely annoying...
Thanks for checking out the video. This is definitely not uncommon!
It can be a few different things....
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Hey did u ever find out what ut was
it happens when im parking my car on a spot, my brake suddenly become hard and stiff but goes back to normal in an instant? please help.
Thanks for watching & we appreciate you sharing this. Sounds like you have a part that’s in it’s early stages of failure... in other words... A part is working intermittently at the moment and will fail sooner or later.
It can be a few different things.
1. Caliper slide needs lubricant
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
2. Too much fluid in reservoir
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html
3. Caliper needs replacement
czcams.com/video/HQqv0hWR8Ec/video.html
4. Failing brake line
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html
Keep us posted. 😎👍🔧🔩
Hi , I have a 2015 chrysler town and country, maybe once or twice a day the brake pedal gets hard to push for about 3 seconds and back to normal. Did it today on a drive through line barely moving . Has about 78,xxx miles , I did notice some splits on some of the vacuum lines but they don't go through to cause a leak . Could it be the check valve or a valve on the vacuum line ? Brake booster seems to be working when tested pumping brakes til it gets hard , start the van an pedal goes down to normal range .
Oh forgot to add , one of the times at a light the brake pedal got hard ..coming to a light . When it stopped , holding the brake pedal down pressing on it . I heard a hissing sound like air coming out .
@@GeneralGP114
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Let’s get this figured out.
A few things can cause hard brake pedal. The most common cause is a worn out caliper that has its internal piston getting stuck periodically. This may not be your issue as you mentioned a hissing sound.
First, we recommend starting engine & opening hood. Direct your attention to all lines feeding in-&-out of booster. If any hissing is heard, pinpoint the exact vacuum line hissing & have it replaced.
Next, let’s look at the 2nd friendliest repair which is your check valve. If this doesn’t fix issue & you are 100% certain that your vacuum lines are not leaking, your booster may be in its early stages of failure.
Let’s start there, keep us posted.
Is it possible that the car Can turn off at a lower revolution?
David
Thanks for watching & we hope you enjoyed the video. Great question & anytime your engine is experiencing degraded performance, whether it is a lack of air intake, fuel burn, or worn out spark plugs & wires/coil pack...its always possible that your engine will stall at a lower idle.
Many more helpful videos to come! 😀
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
2004 trailblazer the pedal goes to the floor every single time and we hear bursts of air escaping every time so no pressure builds up and the calipers don't move.
Shadoe Knose Thanks for watching! You are experiencing 1 of 3 things!
1. It’s very possible that your Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) has failed. The MBC primarily controls the flow of brake fluid to & from all brakes. When failed, pedal no longer has fluid assistance from MBC...thus goes to floor. Below is a video shows more about MBC
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
2. Brake Booster failure...Brake Booster assists brake pedal by lowering the amount of pressure required for pressing pedal...aka makes it easier to press... once failed, Brake Booster releases the air pressure thus pedal goes to floor...
3. Vacuum leak...check all vacuum lines coming out of Brake Booster under hood...while engine is running, listen for any hissing sounds. If you hear hissing, locate leak and replace line.
Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍🔧🔩
Thanks we had already replaced the master cylinder and still nothing at the calipers, no movement. We can hear the loud hiss/air release normally not heard at the booster while pumping the pedal.
Shadoe Knose Thanks for the update! Have you inspected your vacuum lines to verify no leaks...that’s usually the most common cause of hissing sounds under hood. 😎👍🔧🔩
DIY With Michael Borders well we did the bench bleed and it works fine now,so yes it was the Master cylinder not having been bench bled
Shadoe Knose Awesome Awesome & Thanks for the update! We really appreciate you taking the time to share your update comment Shadoe Knose! Definitely keep us posted on if you run into future issues! We would enjoy helping! 😎👍🔧🔩
HELP!!!! 2002 dodge Dakota 4x4 push the pedal and it goes down slowly then suddenly lock the wheels ,totally and is getting worse.... I feel like I'm driving a coffin
Jacobo Lopez
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎
It can be a few different things...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
If you have a weak or lazy brake pedal & it does breath threw the Master Brake Cylinder would you hear that in your car as you start & stop your engine as a woosh or air vacuum type sound lasting about 1 second ? I hear this sound from somewhere near the dash & instrument panel . My brakes seem to perform with engine off as you say & pedal goes down as I turn engine on, though the brakes seem lazy when driving & many times I have to pump them while at a stop light .. If I could upload an audio file you can easily hear it..
JOHN W
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! A few things come to mind.
If it’s a hissing sound, this is almost always a vacuum line leak. We recommend starting engine & allowing engine to warm up to normal operating temperatures.
Next, complete a thorough inspection of all vacuum lines feeding out of your Brake Booster. If you find a leak, we recommend visiting your local AutoZone to purchase replacement vacuum line.
If no leaks found, it’s very possible that your Brake Booster is in its early stages of failure. However before we go that route, let’s inspect the Master Brake Cylinder (MBC)
With the engine running, have someone in the vehicle slowly & gently pressing the brake pedal. While the individual is pressing brake pedal, you will need to inspect entire MBC & all brake lines feeding in & out of part & determine if there are any leaks.
Let’s start there, keep us posted!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks for the reply, I waited this long so I could do all of the suggestions you mentioned.. First - it is not a Hissing sound.. More like a 1 second vacuum sound. Almost as if air was being released for a quick second., it is too bad I cant upload an audio file..
I cant find any leaks in either the Booster lines or master cylinder lines.
I am wondering if its been there for months or longer & I just happened to notice it due to the weather being cooler down here & no need for AC to be running to cover the sound, There are times I just don't catch the sound, I have to be paying attention.. My mechanic thought booster or lines but all check good.. He is great, only charged me $20 to spend an hour checking.. said to keep an ear open & see what happens.. If it changes I will keep you posted..
Thanks
JOHN W
Very cool & thanks for the update! Your reply is very informative & makes us think of something important.
It’s very possible that your Brake Booster’s diaphragm is no longer providing its “Air Tight Seal”...leading to the sound you’re hearing.
Also, when your Booster fails, it can actually get to a point where it’s allowing Brake Fluid into your Booster....which lowers your Brake Fluid inside your reservoir & system.
This means that if you have inspected ALL brake lines & parts associated with brake system & you see absolutely NO Leaks....however at the same time, your Brake Fluid quantity continues to lower....”mysteriously disappearing”...that’s exactly where your Fluid is going....inside the Booster....which is obviously not good. 🤦♂️
Mention this to your mechanic & see if he or she has any thoughts on this.
Keep us posted!
😎👍🔧🔩
What are the chances of one of those falling apart? Like splitting open along the seam? Or did my mechanic just try to murder me?
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Anything is possible...🤔
Have a VW Passot brakes locked up as driving down highway could this be because of the check valve
Ty and Tonia Grady
Thanks for checking out the video & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎
It can be a few different things...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
Hello. I just replaced my own spark plugs on my 2005 dodge grand caravan. Started it up and now my breaks dont work.. I must have made a hose loose while doing the back spark plugs? My breaks are extremely tough now to push on pedal.. 😑
John W
I have attached the reply from your other comment here. Hope this helps!
It can be a few different things....thats if you are experiencing a HARD Brake Pedal...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome!
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
9. Master Brake Cylinder Failure:
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
Again let us know! We are here to help!
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I found the problem. Looks like while I changed the back 3 spark plugs, I unhooked the booster brake hose from a nozzle. I plugged that hose back into it. Brakes work again 😁 thanks for the quick reply!
John W
Awesome Awesome & thanks for sharing your update John W. That’s great!
We are happy to hear you’re back up & running! That’s a friendly DIY repair right there & didn’t cost you any money! 😀
Let us know if you have any additional questions, we are here to help!
😎👍🔧🔩
I have a toyota yaris and the brakes naturally feel like shit. I've replaced the MC a few times since I got the car and put the original back on since they all have the same feel. Recently, I've felt sometimes when I pressed the brake It doesnt engage like it should. Sometimes I have to press on it twice to feel it stop. There are no leaks, rubber hoses are good. Only thing is front brakes have some runout, brake fluid is new. Im stumped.
AwesomenessIskey Whats up Awesomenesslskey, thanks for checking out the video. Lets figure this out! Three things come to mind after reading your comment.
1. It’s possible that your Master Brake Cylinder wasn’t completely Bled properly...just like bleeding brakes after replacing Calipers...the Master Brake Cylinder must be bled!...this is usually done before installation into engine.
2. Your Brake Calipers are getting weak! After years of use, your Calipers begin to seize up on one side...this causes uneven braking & a little wobble feeling in the brake pedal when braking! New Calipers may help!
3. Brake Booster Failure...over time your brake booster weakens and no longer holds the pressure/tension that it once did in its early/new stages.
Below are links to videos that will help. Keep me posted. Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome! :-)
1. Caliper Replacement:
czcams.com/video/i-f5mbDQmqo/video.html
czcams.com/video/HQqv0hWR8Ec/video.html
czcams.com/video/m1iVBJIqQfw/video.html
2. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
3. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
I checked the calipers and they are fine. I bled the brakes again with a neighbor about two weeks ago front then rear. Booster actually had fluid in it from before, but I cleaned it up really well. I thought the booster would make your pedal harder to push?
AwesomenessIskey
Thanks for the update! Let’s look into the Booster!
Over the past few months have you noticed the fluid level in your brake reservoir lowering and at the same time there are absolutely zero leaks in the entire brake system? This is important because in the event that you are losing brake fluid & there are absolutely zero leaks, there’s usually one place that the brake fluid goes...the Brake Booster!
In the event that you are finding brake fluid inside the actual booster, unfortunately that booster will need to be replaced. This can be the reason for the poor brake performance.
Keep us posted! 😎👍🔧🔩
Hi, I have got a Jag 2.7 Diesel 2005, as I noticed stopping is not precise and the pedal was bit stiff, I took it to the mechanic he changed the break pads and the vacuum pump but still same? what should I do?
Thanks for watching. Below is the reply for the question you asked on our other video. Hope this helps. 😎👍
Thanks for watching & the next parts to direct your attention to is your front calipers. It is extremely uncommon for both of your front calipers to fail at the same time.... and this will actually help you determine which caliper you need to replace.
After driving vehicle, check which front tire is giving off more heat and crackling sounds. If the drivers side rim is normal temperature while the passenger side rim is very hot... you will need to replace the passenger side caliper.
Hope this helps. Keep us updated. Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together.
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thank you very much for your advice, will do the test and see.
@@saazmath
😎👍🔧🔩
Ok having trouble with my 98 Chevy blazer 4x4 passenger side brake is sticking. I'm going to start from the beginning. last week on September 5th my brake booster was going out ( when I applied brake pedal half way it start to have a hissing sound ) so I had to replace the brake booster I drove with the old brake booster 15 to 20 mile from work to home. I bought a new one on the way home and replaced it. after I replaced it everything felt fine but now after I drive between 5 to 8 miles with minimum braking maybe 6 times total it gets hard and causes the passenger side to freeze. I had a warranty for the caliper so I replaced it thinking that was the problem . replacing it didn't help what so ever. I also replaced the brake hoses from line to caliper a month ago. Do you think I could I have bought a faulty brake booster. I forgot to mention that when it did it to me the other night I decide to do a little test. when I drove it and got it sticking I drove it back home and got it to where it would still stick while in drive and stay in one spot. I then pulled the vacuum hose from the brake booster and it released it. if I drive it with out the hose on it does fine other then the hard brake pedal feel. but it only sticks when the vacuum is connected and drive for little bit
98_Blazer_LT Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment and experience my friend. Brake problems are definitely annoying haha! Your explanation helps! After filling me in on all your recent repairs, it's very possible that your Brake Booster is Faulty! This is not common however not 100% unlikely. I spoke to a friend awhile back that experienced this exact situation. He returned his New Brake Booster for another one. Come to find out...they called him back a few days later to let him know the Brand New Booster he had purchased and then returned was ruptured internally.
Again, very uncommon but definitely possible when these parts are manufactured!
The problem was that since the Booster was internally damaged, the vacuum flow had begun to work in the opposite way it was designed to...which in return worked "Against" your foot pressure as opposed to "With" your foot pressure! This resulted in all the symptoms you are unfortunately experiencing. I recommend returning Booster for a new Booster! Explain to them what you are experiencing and get a second opinion. Keep me posted!
Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍
DIY With Michael Borders thanks for getting back to me. I had 2 other people say that it need to be adjust so the said washers between the master cylinder and booster. So I tried it took it for a test drive ( knock on wood ) it helped. I didn't know I was supposed to grab my old push rod so my fault. First time ever dealing with a brake booster
98_Blazer_LT Thanks for the update! That's great news. That's definitely more convenient than the other options haha! Please keep me posted over the next few days/weeks of driving it. That would be awesome 😀
so far so good have not had a problem. Brake pedal did feel stiff once but not dragging or sticking. been driving now for 2 or 3 days now just waiting on rear rotors to com in so I can replace those. but all in all its good thank you for getting back to me
98_Blazer_LT Hot Diggity Dog that's great news and thanks for the update my friend! Glad to hear! These Dakotas are pretty cool trucks 😎👍
Great videos ! 👍
ScrewsNutsAndBolts
Thanks for watching & we appreciate that. Let us know if you have any questions.
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Will do, thanks !
ScrewsNutsAndBolts
😎👍🔧🔩
for anyone who knows just got my liberty on the road after 2 years sitting brake pedal was solid but no brakes . replaced booster , brakes are still solid but wont compress is the a problem with locked up calipers or am i missing something?
TheOldGunsmith58
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience! This is definitely not uncommon! Let’s get this figured out together! 😎
It can be a few different things...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to deteriorate and fall apart, leading to clogging portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Keep us posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
have one other problem you may be able to help with . same 02 liberty passenger side wiring connector for downstream 4 wire o2 sensor (harness side ) missing sense replaced engine not finding wiring harness diagram for 02 that shows wiring from sensors into harness . 03 is not the same
TheOldGunsmith58
Thanks for the reply. We also took a look & you’re right, nor much on it. Here’s what we recommend.
Visit your local dealership & head back to the parts department. Explain what you need & they have an awesome software that can pull up all systems diagrams for entire vehicle.
You may find this is the best route and then you can either purchase part from them or you can purchase part online.
Keep us posted!
Does anyone take care of the the underside of the hood any more. I try to keep mine cleaned by wiping it down. All that dirt, dust, and debris causes plastic, and rubber to deteriorate faster. Not to mention nasty looking.
Ted Thornton
Thanks for watching & sharing your thoughts Ted. We are strong believers in the better care you take of your belongings, the longer they last.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
When I push my brakes down it goes to the floor sometimes not all the times but make a vibrate humming sound. And is slow to stop at times. What do you suggest
Tyler Rogers
What’s up Tyler, thanks for watching! You are experiencing 1 of 3 things!
1. It’s very possible that your Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) is beginning to fail. The MBC primarily controls the flow of brake fluid to & from all brakes. When failed, pedal no longer has fluid assistance from MBC...thus goes to floor. Below is a video shows more about MBC
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
2. Brake Booster failure...Brake Booster assists brake pedal by lowering the amount of pressure required for pressing pedal...aka makes it easier to press... once failed, Brake Booster releases the air pressure thus pedal goes to floor...
3. Vacuum leak...check all vacuum lines coming out of Brake Booster under hood...while engine is running, listen for any hissing sounds. If you hear hissing, locate leak and replace line.
Keep us posted! Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders i did replace the check valve just because and it did change the idle dropping when hitting brakes just to eliminate that. Went to pull the abs speed sensor and it broke so have to replace that now..read that they get dirty and are over acting. So now i have to replace that and pull the other out and clean it. I will check the hose to the check valve just to make sure it's not leaky or cracked some where. Ill keep posted
Tyler Rogers
Awesome Awesome & that’s a great update & we appreciate it Tyler. A new Sensor will be great & should help.
Keep us posted, we are standing ready to help!
😎👍🔧🔩
hi. where does this upper vacuum tube go?
Thanks for checking out the video. The bottom hose feeds to the manifold while the upper hose feed to the opposite side of engine and provides Atmospheric pressure for brake Booster. Subscribe to the channel if you're up to it. Thanks again!
Thank you for Help me out
I'm getting more annoyed, the more I read the comments. Everyone with older cars seem to be having symptoms of these components failing. I have a 2015 Cruze and I am having so much trouble with It, and today, after getring it back from the shop yesterday, I discover a hissing noise coming from behind the fire wall when I push in and when I release my brake pedal. They said they fixed a vacuum leak by changing a purge valve. And then I pick up my car and have this hissing noise that wasn't there until now, until after getting it back from them. Uggghhhh I may cry. Lol
Jamie Winters
Jamie, thanks for watching! We definitely understand your annoyance! Especially since you just got it out of shop.
The hissing sound is literally 100% due to a vacuum leak in any of the vacuum lines & part they replaced.
Here’s what we recommend there are two options!
1. Since they charged you for fixing the vacuum leak...it’s time to call the shop & share with them the issue still persists. Although it is extremely annoying to have to take the car back to shop...at least they can replace all vacuum lines.
2. You can drive vehicle to your local AutoZone & share your experience with them. Request that a AutoZone specialist come outside to your car & listen to the hissing sound.
The AutoZone specialist will be able to locate the leak & show you which vacuum line must be purchased and replaced. At that point, you can change the line yourself and save some 💰.
Let’s start there! Keep us posted!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
I have 2008 Altima all wheels locked up after 5 minutes driving . Next day driver again for another 5 minutes.. all wheels are Rock hard oil going all wheels no leak . What do think is the problem.thanks
الحمدلله الذي خلصني
Thanks for checking out the video. This is definitely an annoying issue to run into. We have attached a few options that may cause this. Let’s get this figured out! 😀
Check out the vides and let us know if these troubleshooting steps help.
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
have any parts of the brake system been worked on before this started ?
john joseph
Thanks for watching & we appreciate you reaching out to us. A few months prior, we changed pads & rotors. All went well.
We really enjoy making these helpful videos for our fellow DIY’ers. 😀
Let us know if you have any questions. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
hello, I have a 1999 Honda accord ex and I'm having trouble finding the problem on my brakes system. my brake pedal tends to get hard out of nowhere and the car starts shaking bad when I barely press the brake pedal.
also when I come to a complete stop my car slowly move like if I was hold the brakes and pressing the accelerator.
Hey there thanks for checking out the video. This is definitely an annoying issue that so many people run into. First question....has there been any recent work done to your brake system in the last year? From what you have mentioned you are experiencing, i am almost positive that its one of...(Or BOTH) of your brake calipers. When your brake calipers begin to fail or the caliper slides begin to dry up, your caliper begins to stick. This leads to the shaking and unbalanced feeling you are mentioning. Before you change the caliper...check to see if you caliper slides just need to be re-lubricated. Below is a video on how to check
I have attached a few options that may cause this. Check out the vides and let me know if you have run into any of these issues. Please keep me posted. Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
Interesting! I'm rock'n a magnificent uber special limited edition 1999 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 v8. 3 times now I went out to start my beast, and I get a no start. Nothing, nada, zip, zero. No crank, nothing at all. Also, my break peddle is hard as a rock. I give it a few hours or even wait until the next day, and she fires right up. I was thinking maybe it had to do with my master cylinder gasket since it appears sucked in when I pop the cover, but thx to this awesome insightful video, I'm now thinking the power booster, or the power booster check valve. Since the power booster check valve is a check valve, would it be prudent to just disconnect it and try blowing through the opposite end to see if air can travel back through it? That would be way cheaper if it's just the check valve, but how would I go about testing the power booster? Thx for the vid! Thumbs up!
Thanks for watching Kirk & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. You are very welcome.
We are looking forward to hearing back from you as you work through your project.
Enjoy your upcoming weekend. 👍
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Check valve and hoses are good. When I pulled out the check valve, I heard a rush of air. I didn't get that rush of air the last time, so maybe it was just loose(somehow). So I let the Limited Edition 1999 Chevy Tahoe beast run for a bit, then turned off the engine. I pushed the brake pedal to the floor for 30 seconds, but felt no push back whatsoever. If the booster is good, shouldn't I feel a push back or is it and indicator that the booster is bad? On the master cylinder rests the reservoir and I've noticed that whenever I open the cap that the gasket is sucked in, and also the cap itself doesn't appear completely snug. Here is my question, if the cap on the master cylinder reservoir isn't 100% bulletproof sealed (even a smidget) would that account for the sucking in of the gasket and also having an effect on the booster not pushing my foot back up when, with the engine off I pushed down on the peddle for 30 seconds? Or was I supposed to conduct the holding down the break peddle for 30 seconds test with the engine on? Well I did both, and both times felt no push back from the peddle. I guess I'll start with replacing the reservoir just to make sure both the gasket and cap match. Afterall, who knows what repairs were made or how many owners there were. Fun 😁.
@@kirkhustle3718
Kirk, thanks for the update. Below is a link to our video showing us testing our Booster. You may find this helpful.
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
In regards to the seal on cap, it’s unlikely that it would cause the level of degraded performance that you’re experiencing... however we cannot rule it out.
Do you have a spare cap lying around that just so happens to be the same size. Testing it with another cap that is the exact same size may help when determining the next step.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Alright alright alright, Booster check complete and..... It's good! Chippy cha cha radical! I do not have a spare cap lying about for the reservoir, it's one of those rectangular ones and even though all four points are capped, it looks a bit wonky on one side. I'm thinking that some air is getting in and that might have something to do with that rectangle rubber gasket type thing getting sucked in at a weird angle inside the reservoir when it should be completely flat. So it seems, it's either air is getting inside the reservoir, or this entire time the power booster check valve was just loose. Ha. Anyway it gets me outta the house so I can cruise to the store and replenish some strength. Wife wants another baby and she's ruthless.
@@kirkhustle3718
That’s awesome, not having to replace the booster will keep some money in your pocket!!
Air getting into system is getting more & more likely as you run through the troubleshooting steps.
Looking forward to hearing back from you.
😎👍
I have a 03 vw bug was teaching my gf how to drive stick and she stalled it 3 times on the 3rd tome my brake pedal got stiffed. I opened up the hood and saw the vaccumed hose popped off and was cracked since it was old. I replaced the hose and it idles and runs perfectly fine but the brake pedal is still stiff. Do I need a new brake booster or should I try bleeding the brake lines. the car was completely fine up into the point where my gf stalled
Jordan WIlson Thanks for checking out the video. Have you completed any maintenance to your brake system in the last few years?
replaced the pads about a year or so ago? other then that nothing
Thanks for the reply. This is definitely not uncommon!
It can be a few different things....
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
awesome thanks for the help
Anytime!. Keep me posted! Having brake problems can definitely be annoying. We have all been there...no fun. We are going to figure this out :-)
I would start with the basic inspections and see if you just need to re-grease some parts.
i got hard brake promblem.the pedal is hard to push,but if i push it down slowly it working..help?
Thanks for checking out the video qazzar87! This is definitely not uncommon!
It can be a few different things....lets get this figured out together and get you bak on the road safely! My initial thought is that your Master Brake Cylinder is beginning to fail. This part regulates the proper flow of Brake Fluid to & from all brake calipers and once it begins to fail, you will experience symptoms such as you have...however it might be something else that we can check without spending cash yet. Here is a link that talks about Master Brake Cylinder...ALSO, below that link are several other options it can be...Lets do This!
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
DIY With Michael Borders thanks for infomation,very2 appreciate that.its also got leaking at rear master cylinder.for your infomation,i already drive with this condition around 3 month😂😂😂
Thanks for the update. That info definitely helps! Since you have located and verified that your Brake System has a leak...this will definitely cause your Brake Pedal to act the way it is. I strongly recommend that you keep a very close eye on your Brake Fluid level. In the event that it gets below the proper fill line..and continues to leak...Air can and will enter the lines and cause a huge annoying...not to mention dangerous situation. You Brakes will continue to get worse and worse until no brakes at all...No good! It a really good idea to get that leaking part fixed. Let me know what you end up doing...im definitely here if you have any questions along the way!
DIY With Michael Borders maybe i change kit inside master cylinder.in my country,its hard to find sparepart for my car.im use old car toyota cressida.normally what cause leak inside master cylinder?
qazzar87 The inner parts of the Master Brake Cylinder that regulate the flow & pressure begin to fail over time and cause problems. 😎👍
My break peddle is making a hissing noise can it be the break booster
Thanks for watching. A hissing sound is almost 100% of the time a leaking vacuum line. With engine running, carefully inspect vacuum lines feeding in & out of Booster & pinpoint the line that is hissing.
You can purchase a new line at your local AutoZone. Keep us posted.
😎👍🔧🔩
Why is the brake pedal it gets to hard along with the and steering wheel? Tx
Pancho El mion
Thanks for watching & we hope the video helped. Are you experiencing Hard brake pedal? You mentioned your steering wheel. If your steering wheel is beginning to get stiff, you may need to add power steering fluid to your power steering reservoir.
We really enjoy making these helpful videos for our fellow DIY’ers. Many more helpful videos to come! 😀
Keep us posted on your project & any questions you may have. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
Nive video . i got a question tho . i just did a break booster replacement and a year later the van comes back and the break pedal is rock solind , like it can stop the van but a little pressure is needed to do so . could that be the break booster itseld or something els
Hi there.. I upgraded my brake booster to a bigger one (7"), Post that the brakes were very effective, however after driving for a while, the brakes start to drag and the pedal becomes harder. I have to disconnect MC from booster to release the brakes .. and again it works for 100kms without issues and then same problem repeats.. what could be the reason for this?
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Are you still having issues? After installing new Booster, did you bleed brakes? The Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) may also need to be bled. There are several helpful videos on how to bleed MBC. Keep us posted.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders
Brakes and MC are bled, I removed MC out and started the engine, pushed brake 20-25 times, what I observed is that the push rod is not fully retracting sometimes and stays 2-3 mm pushed out..can lower pressure in vaccum pump cause this?.. if I manually push the pushrod using my finger, it retracts to its position
@@ChethanSG06
Thanks for the update. Do you see or hear any signs of vacuum system leaking...hissing lines when engine is running...?
I was driving my 1980 camaro, and the brakes were getting harder to depress. And then the brakes started to drag. Hoping this is my problem. Thanks
Was this your problem?
I’m experiencing something similar
my break is pumping when applying brake on high speed around 50 to 60 KPH. but when moving slow, 40 kph below, no problems on brake. need help. what are the possible problems
Kev Kevz Thanks for checking out the video and sharing your comment and experience. Although it is extremely uncommon, you might have a warped rotor. If you can see through your wheel well to the rotor...check to see if any spots are different. If so replace. Again it's VERY unlikely...but possible.
As you know, the brake system relies on its parts creating the correct and equalized friction. At any point this friction is interrupted, the symptoms you may see is chattering breaks at high-speed's as you mentioned and will go away and slower speeds.
You might need to replace your calipers and pads. Overtime calipers begin to weaken and apply pressure to the brake pads unevenly...thus leading to the chattering. If this is your issue, you will notice that your brake pads will show signs of uneven wear...one may still have a lot of life on it while the other may be completely bare...not good.
So with that said, lets try a few things before you actually replace the calipers. Attached are some videos that you can try such as lubricating the slides, lubricating the rails...
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inter coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome!
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html
I see... so, you mean I might have a bend disk or drum breaks is not perfectly in circle shape, so everytime i press the break, its pumping because of un even shape. I will check that. I will inform you. THANK you very much for that Idea.
Kev Kevz It's possible but very unlikely. It's free to check 😀
I check all the brakes and it seems no dent at all. break pad still tick and can use more, no sounds while braking, I cleaned it all and it lessen the Pump and sometimes it doesn't pump.
Thanks for the update. Moving in the right direction. Have you have any work to the brake system in the last few years?
Have you verified that you don't have any leaks in the brake lines underneath the vehicle? Double check the brake lines under the hood that feed out of your Master Cylinder...
Its very possible that your Master Brake Cylinder has begun to fail. Its purpose is to manage the proper flow of the fluid within the system and send in through the lines to the brakes...once that begins to fail...you will begin experiencing the symptoms you are. Below is a video that shows a Master Brake Cylinder...
czcams.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=F9s_1VZ2u5E
there are no links!!
Briann Esparza
Thanks for watching! At the last 10 seconds of the video, you will see square video pictures pop up. Those are the corresponding video links. We hope this helps!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
My brakes were working fine until my car sat for several months. Now the brakes are basically stuck at the floor and won't release. Could this be the check valve?
Dave Haertel
Hey Dave, thanks for checking out the video! This is definitely not uncommon, let’s get this figured out! 😀
It can be a few different things....
My initial thought is your Calipers are beginning to stick. Below are several options it can be...Lets do This!
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from inside rather that outside. This means the inner coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
I have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep me posted! Please Subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome!
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Ok, so I check the brake check valve and it's operating fine, I changed clamps on the end of the hose from the carb, so there's good vacuum when I pull it out of the booster, so I'm pretty sure that's not the issue, all wheels spin freely when the car is up on blocks. Very maddening.
Dave Haertel
Thanks for the update Dave. Have you had time to run through our troubleshooting videos in our last posted reply?
Keep us posted. 😎👍🔧🔩
Dave Haertel
It’s very possible you have a blockage in your front rubber hoses connected to the Caliper.
So when i press my break its not hard its soft but it has a hissing sound when i press them and doesn't stop as good it takes alot longer any advice?
Cuttyz On The Beat
Thanks for watching, we appreciate it. We hope the video helped. A hissing sound is almost 100% due to a leak in one of your vacuum hoses.
We recommend starting engine and trying your best to pinpoint the exact hose causing the hissing sounds. Next, head to your local AutoZone and they will be able to sell you the exact replacement hose for your vehicle. Keep us posted.
As we have shared with many others, we really enjoy making these helpful videos for our fellow DIY’ers. 😀
Many more helpful videos to come. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders well its not a hissing sound more of it just sounds like air is being pushed from where my brake pedal area by my feet when i press it
Cuttyz On The Beat
Thanks for the reply. It’s also possible that you have a small leak in your Booster. This can lead to your symptoms.
😎👍🔧🔩
Found out my issue and it was simple. I had no brake booster hose at all.
CROCKPOT
Thanks for the update, we really appreciate it! We are happy to hear you’re back up & running! Hopefully you were able to fix it at minimal cost.
Let us know if you have any questions, we are here to help! 😎👍🔧🔩
CROCKPOT
I’m curious how the hose disappeared? 😲😆
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders some dummy who had the car before me didn't put a new 1 on and the old 1 was bridle and cracked man I had to remove the plastic part to the brake booster and replace that and the whole hose after that it start running again. No you do not have to bleed the brakes to do that. Lol I bought it from another person
CROCKPOT
Thanks for the reply & update. It’s like you never truly know what a vehicle has been through with the previous owner. 😆
You always have that “curious wonder”...why are they selling this vehicle...
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders That is so true. This car cried HELP ME lol and I ended up purchasing it for $500 and the engine and transmission is really good just that the oil pan had gotten dinged up after that I went on and fixed it fully to help the car start working again. After hand it started doing better and fully workable again :). So now she trust me better than anyone else glad I bought her. The engine is super clean for a 1999 VW Jetta. Looks as like the previous owners never took good care of it. But now it's top-notch ready :) thanks for the info and help :).
I know mine is bad. I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu LS and its brake pedal goes from soft to hard. And when applying the brakes the idle goes berserk and the car either stalls or wants to stall .
DeadSpaceGrave
Thanks for watching. That’s no fun. This is usually caused by a bad brake booster or an issue with your vacuum system. You can actually visit your local AutoZone and they will hook up a scanner to your vehicle for 100% free and read the engine error code that it is giving off. Your vehicle may be giving off an ABS code and they will be able to pinpoint what part needs to be replaced.
Let us know if you have any questions. Please subscribe to the channel and Ring your CZcams Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I had it replaced already and it drives with no problems now
DeadSpaceGrave
Awesome Awesome & thanks for sharing.
😎👍🔧🔩
Hi michael
I have an 87 jeep cherokee laredo 4x4
When i start the vehicle theres a whistle sound or more like high pressure air leak which quits when i push the brake pedal
What would that be? Brake booster ? Which i cant seem to find on any autoparts in central washington state
Thanks in advance
I will be checking for vacume leaks this weekend
Thanks again
Juan Rodriguez
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience Jain. A hissing/whistling sound is a sign of a vacuum leak. Here’s what we recommend.
Start your engine & open hood. Direct your attention to the vacuum lines feeding off your actual Brake Booster.
Do your best to pinpoint the exact location of the leak along the vacuum lines. Once you locate the exact location of leak & which hose needs to be replaced, you can visit your local AutoZone to purchase a new part.
You may find it most convenient to drive vehicle to AutoZone which will allow an AutoZone employee to match your vacuum line/hose for the exact replacement part.
Keep us posted, we are always here to help!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
DIY With Michael Borders thank you so much i will be working on that tonight
You are awsome thanks and i will update you on it
Juan Rodriguez
Very cool & thanks for the reply. Definitely keep us posted! We are standing ready to help!
😎👍🔧🔩
DIY With Michael Borders hi michael ive got the 4x4 working now
Something was unplugged by the transfercase a vacuum line
Ive now encounter another problem
I started messing with vacuum lines that were unplugged and also noticed the air idle control valve was unplugged
I connected two line together alomg with the air control valve while engine was off
Started it and high revs to 3k rpm
Unplugged everything to
Leave it the way it was and not change still high revving
Will clean throttle body with cleaner and that sensor
Am i heading the right direction ?
Juan Rodriguez
Thanks for the update Jain. Two things to focus on.
1. Your Idle Sensor.
Below is a link to our step-by-step video that shows replacement of part. This controls & manages your engine RPM.
czcams.com/video/6tKhTSWJCzA/video.html
2. Recent fuel additives
Have you or anyone recently inserted any fuel stabilizer or fuel enhancement products into your fuel system? The fuel enhancing products can usually lead to unmanaged jumps in RPM if not managed correctly with the fuel to air ratio.
Also, do you hear any hissing sounds when your engine is running? Focus on your vacuum lines... hissing sounds are a clear indication of a vacuum leak.
Keep us posted!
😎👍🔧🔩
hi my name is Jason. I have a 2002 Lincoln lse. One day driving down the street instrument cluster pegged out then went back normal so kept driving home. Got home and went to turn car off and car would not cut off even with key out engine still running had to pull fuel pump fuse to get it off. Put the fuse back in and the car hasn't started since security light is flashing not allowing the car to start. Put it in the shop they said I had a bad instrument cluster. So I replace the instrument cluster and had a locksmith reprogram new keys and the new instrument cluster. The security light finally went off but car still won't start. PLEASE HELP I'm thinking it the computer
jason bland Thanks for checking out the video. Sorry to hear you're experiencing annoying car trouble. I have seen this in the past. It can be a few different things.
As far as car not turning off
1. Possible computer fault/malfunction as you mentioned
2. Possible back feed from the alternator to the ignition switch that's causing a fault.
3. Possible fault with an aftermarket ignition switch/alarm system that has been added to car...wire not grounded correctly.
As far as car not starting after replacing Instrument Cluster
1. Start by making sure you have a good battery...my friend experienced same symptoms and a new battery fixed it...
2. More commonly...Possible fault in anti-theft system...it must be reset. Most cars have anti theft installed...but if yours doesn't...then disregard.
3. Possible incorrect wiring...make sure all wires are installed properly.
Please keep me posted... please Subscribe to the channel that would be awesome thanks again 😀👍
brake pedal good with eng off crank eng.while holding pedal it goes to floor
Thanks for checking out the video. This is definitely an annoying issue to run into. I have attached a few options that may cause this. Check out the vides and let me know if you have run into any of these issues.
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
I have a white smoke coming out of exhaust pipe(only for about 10 minutes after startup). Could the break booster be the cause of it assuming vacuum in engine will be sucking in oil into the cylinder and burning it. If it can do I need to replace my break booster vacuum pump as well assuming this is the starting point of how the oil got inside the vacuum power booster in the first place assuming that the vacuum pump's one way valve has failed?
Thanks for checking out the video...Are you experiencing any brake problems such as caliper sticking, hard brake peddle, or leaks? The brake booster shouldn't have any relation to the white smoke. It is possible that your PCV valve is clogged and oil is getting past around valve and burring....creating white smoke?
Keep me posted...Subscribe to the channel if you're up to it thanks again!
Bad news!! My Turbo is slowly going down. Took it to my mechanic the other day and he told me Turbo is leaking oil when it's not warmed up.
buzzikea No fun....how bad is the leak?
just starting I don't lose much oil, it's still in the range and I don't have a whole lot of smoke yet. Eventually it'll be bad. time for rebuild or upgrade
I have a 2005 hyaundai sonata and yesterday my brakes locked up out of nowhere, I pulled vacuum line off and it released brake when I hooked back up car ran fine a few miles then locked up again if you have any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it, I replaced booster but still doing it
Jesse Brown
Thanks for watching & it’s possible that your calipers need to be replaced. This is a very common symptom of a seized caliper. Keep us posted.
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders how would I pinpoint which one seems like there all locked up untill I pull thet hose? Great videos subscribed
Jesse Brown
Thanks for the reply. In most cases, after the caliper begins to stick, the entire caliper & pads will heat up pretty fast. You can check each front wheel & see if you smell burning or feel uncommonly high heat from a few inches away.
😎👍🔧🔩
Can a bad check valve cause a vacuum leak my rpm goes high and my brake pedal is hard to smash
Absolutely a possibility. It can also be a faulty idle sensor. Below is a link to our video showing replacement of sensor.
czcams.com/video/6tKhTSWJCzA/video.html
😎👍
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I already changed my idle sensor and put on a new check valve so for it’s good I’ll no more later lol
@@SlitheryEnd03
Very cool, thanks for the info.
I have a weird problem sins months, my brakes are the worst at low speed, at high speeds they are fine?
what could this be?
Neo
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience Neo. Have you performed any maintenance to your brake system in last 12 months. If yes, this will allow us to see if any recent repairs are tied to your brake symptoms.
At slow speeds, is your brake pedal loose...? If brake pedal is not firm on tension when pressing, you may be low on fluid or have a leak somewhere.
Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Let me clarify, if I brake for the first time then the brakes go well, but as soon as I take my foot off the pedal and then right after that brake again, the brakes no longer work as well
so "pumping braking" is a disaster with a small amount of brake pressure, very dangerous! the brakes need a few seconds to recover .. so i must not use my brakes at all for a moment before the brakes work properly again
Neo
Thanks for the reply. We recommend starting engine and going to the front of the car with the hood open and trying to listen for any hissing or whistling sounds. If you hear hissing or whistling sounds...you have a vacuum leak in one of your vacuum lines feeding off of your actual brake booster.
Once you locate the possible hole, you’ll want to visit your local AutoZone and have your vacuum line matched and have it replaced.
Let’s start there, keep us posted. The next troubleshooting options will be the master brake cylinder or the actual brake booster.
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Just bought a second hand vacuum pump. I checked all those things you mentioned and didn't find anything strange. And i know for sure the master cilinder booster is also fine becouse that can easely be tested, at cold start when the brake pedal is "hard" as soon i start the engine the brake pedal goes down so that means its not broken or failing (according to many proffesionals on forums) and also as I said before the first time braking is fine .. Its the braking again right thereafter giving issues. So I think the vacuum pump is failing and cant deliver enough vacuum for a second brake!. I'm installing it tomorrow and then let you know the result, Fingers crossed🤞
Thanks for the reply Neo, Let’s work through some troubleshooting items!
1. Its possible that your caliper is beginning to stick...maybe caliper slides have lost the lubrication required to shift back and forward freely.
2. It can be possible that your Caliper piston has lost its lubrication which will also interfere with the efficient shift back for forth.
3. The front rubber brake lines that connect to your caliper fail from the inside as opposed to the outside. This means the inner coating begins to break away and clog portions of the brake system...hence not allowing fluid to flow back and forth freely.
4. Your brake pads have little prongs/teeth on them. You will notice by their location...the pads slide on a steel brace. This may need to be lubricated to bring the shift back to efficient requirements.
We have attached a few videos. Lets start with the easy items and then work our way up! Lets figure this out together! Keep us posted!
Links to all of our helpful step-by-step videos explaining the above possible causes are below, definitely check those out! 😎👍🔧🔩
1. Caliper Slides Lost Lubrication:
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html&t=15s
2. Too much Fluid in Reservoir:
czcams.com/video/X-AJ5tD6zoA/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=39
3. Failing Front Brake Lines:
czcams.com/video/3FTEgbLYAdI/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=78
4. Brake Pads not shifting:
czcams.com/video/3Pq15BWM_qY/video.html&t=103s
5. Replacing Front Brake Calipers:
czcams.com/video/8HoaL4QM5-k/video.html&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ&index=83
6. How to check if Brake Booster is Failing:
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html&index=66&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
7. Failing Brake Booster:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html
8. Symptoms of a Failing Brake Booster Check Valve:
czcams.com/video/j9s7yccswPQ/video.html&index=68&list=PLjCXOz8TSkZnavDiGDyHdPKe2dV2RzEMZ
9. Master Brake Cylinder info
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
Here's a question for you, if you're still answering-
I drive a 1988 Dodge omni. Has about 110-115k. Car is old enough to not have ABS (don't know if that matters). Rotors in the front drums in the rear.
Noticed my brakes felt weak and spongy. Thought maybe air got into the lines (after previously replacing pads and bleeding system) so I had the master cylinder replaced. Brakes stopped feeling squishy but still didn't feel like they were stopping correctly. Noticed my rotors were very worn to I just had them replaced (literally about two days ago). Brakes now feel more solid and also don't pulse anymore. But braking still feels inadequate.
While doing city speeds (20-35) car feels like it's braking fine. But at 40+ I gotta really press on them sons o bitches to get the braking force to stop in time. Sometimes it feels normal others it's that press harder feeling.
In your opinion do you think it's my booster or calipers?
Micro USB
Thanks for watching & sharing your experience. Calipers almost always fail the opposite...meaning when they finally call it quits, they begin sticking & locking brakes.
This leans us toward your Booster & check valve...or a vacuum leak. We recommend starting your engine and listening for any hissing sounds coming from any and all lines that feed to your booster.
If you hear hissing, head to AutoZone where you can purchase a replacement line. If no hissing, it’s possible that you have a failed check valve that is connected to your vacuum line feeding off of your booster. Let’s start there.
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks for the info. I'll check it out on my day off tomorrow and update you with my findings.
Micro USB
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@@DIYwithMichaelBorders So I haven't got to pick at the car yet. But I noticed today that there's and audible hissing from under my dash that seems to disappear when I press on the brake. Considering that hissing is often associated with a vaccum leak and the car is 30+ years old I feel it's safe to say it's something to do with the booster.
Thoughts?
Micro USB
Thanks for the update & that’s a great observation & you may need a new Booter. 30 year old booster gets 👍👍 from us. Hopefully your new booster will last just as long if not longer.
😎👍🔧🔩
02 nissan xterra. Yesterday brake pedal got hard and harder. Every time I pushed it, there's this noise of air escaping.. do I need to change the whole brake vacuum? Made it home driving under 15mph and by a miracle.
Thanks for watching & we appreciate you sharing your experience. A few things can cause this, Booster being one of them.
Before anything, we recommend starting your engine and opening up your hood. Next, carefully listen to your engine near the booster. Try to pinpoint the hissing sound and where exactly it’s coming from.
You may just have a hole in a vacuum line which can be replaced very easily and won’t cost much money.
It may also be as simple as needing to lubricate your caliper slides. Below is a link that talks more about this.
czcams.com/video/-DZ68tKuCQc/video.html
Keep us posted on your project.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I replaced the brake booster. Now ABS light is on and the pedal is very soft.
@@santoroyerdeantorcha
Thanks for the update, have you re-bled brake system?
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I tried. But just the front. I must do the rear?
@@santoroyerdeantorcha
You may want to do all 4.
If I have a vacuum related braking system would the master cylinder have anything to do with it?
Thanks for watching, great question. The Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) is mounted to Brake Booster…which is the actual part directly related to vacuum system while engine is running.
Your MBC is mounted to Booster so to answer your question, yes. It’s possible that the MBC is causing issues. Check out the link below as it may help.
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
😎👍
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders thanks. I thought it might. I had a mechanic install just the booster because I was having an issue where the car would accelerate briefly while braking. It turns out the booster was the cause of this. But I still have sort of a choppy idle that feels as if the car is about to stall intermittently. Could the brake vacuum master cylinder be the culprit and could my new brake booster be damaged if there is still a vacuum leak in another section? Also would the check valve cause any issue with this? Or would a check valve issue be more obvious.
@@Dnasty1
Thanks for the reply, it’s possible that your Idle Position Sensor has malfunctioned.
Below is a link to our video showing us replacing ours on our Dodge Dakota.
czcams.com/video/6tKhTSWJCzA/video.html
😎👍
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I believe I changed that but I suspect braking system to be the culprit because when I step on the brakes I can see the rpm’s jump a little bit briefly at idle. Also the way that the idle is choppy has gotten slightly less worse now that the booster was changed. Was wondering if maybe there’s a leak somewhere else in the system. When the car shakes at idle the rpm needle also does not move it’s like a mini misfire
@@Dnasty1
Awesome, we can’t rule out spark plugs and wires. Replacing those will go a long way as well. Please keep us posted on your progress.
I have a 1996 Ram 1500 and I'm now noticing a loud sucking air sound when hitting the brakes I'm leaning towards the booster because the pedal goes low and lots of effort to stop.
Thanks for watching. This is a follow up on the question related to my other video. I think your on your way to having to replace that booster. The hissing sound is usually signs of leakage into booster. Double check that fluid in the reservoir to see if its lowering in quantity without any leaks. Keep me posted. Please Subscribe thanks!
DIY With Michael Borders will do going to get one in the morning. Was trying to avoid that as I'm piecing together a hydro boost setup but gotta get it.
Very cool. Keep me posted!
Replaced the booster today and no change whatsoever. Any suggestions I'm curious if the master cylinder is bad or not still no physical leaks.
Chris Atkinson Bummer....the poor truck is running you down the famous Rabbit race "🐰 🏁 "....no fun. Master cylinder is next. I just presented your and my conversation to a friend of mine. He and I talked more about the squishy aspect you're experiencing. As you know...the Master Cylinder is what regulates the fluid to and from all brake elements. The internal gaskets and wafer/bellows fail over time which will lead to the cylinder not holding the required pressure. The inner parts are no longer able to withstand the guidance of the pressure needed to move that fluid. He and I feel replacing the Master Cylinder should catch the 🐰. 😀👍
My brake pedal got hard. I watched some videos and replaced the pump. It was broken inside. But the new one made the car work fine again. But the same day on the way home my pedal got hard again. I checked the pump and no suction.im guessing its broken again but why?
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. It’s very possible that you have a caliper in its early stages of failure.
After you notice the brake getting harder during driving, we recommend inspecting the front wheels to see which wheel is giving off an aggressive amount of heat.
You’ll be able to feel the heat without touching it, we recommend not touching it as it will be very hot.
The wheel thats really hot will be the wheel that needs the caliper to be replaced.
Keep us posted, us DIYers need to stick together!!!
So a bad caliper can cause my pump to fail twice?
@@juliusgonwild2478
Thanks for the reply. A bad caliper can lead to a pump looking like it has failed when in reality, the pump is still good.
😁👍
When i tool off the hose and put my finger over the opening i didnt feel any suction. Should i open up the front plate and check to see if the paddle didnt break? First
@@juliusgonwild2478
Thanks for the reply, while the engine is running, do you hear any hissing sounds coming from the lines that feed off your brake booster inside engine compartment?
If so, pinpoint the line that is leaking and have that replaced. A leak in your vacuum system can cause these symptoms as well.
ehhh they started to drag a little bit today.... Guess I'm gonna replace the master probably
Bummer...thanks for the update...let me know if that resolves the issue 😀👍
That would be foolish why not actually diagnose the problem and start with the simple obvious things, such as the valve that's a 5usd part and it might be the culprit (which often is especially with older vehicles) of your issue.
Hi mate enjoyed your video, i got problem for last 18 months if i push brake down slowly it will go to floor, but i push fast it good, i double push brake, i been to two brake shops and they just want to start changing parts starting at the master, which i didnt do. its 2008 holden commodore look the same as a G8 Pontiac, any help cheers Graham.
thx mate
Thanks for checking out the video. Indeed that can be your seals as mentioned by EnergyInventor. This is definitely an annoying issue. Master cylinders range in prices and a new one is recommended rather than purchasing one from a junk yard! However a junk yard part doesn't need to be 100% ruled out! Thanks again for watching!
Thanks for the info and help! :-)
thx everyone
what would happen if I go buy a longer vacuum hose and not use the check valve? early I attached both hose without valve and brakes unlocked
You would basically disarm that Safety valve feature.
I think I got water in the fluid
Ok...any idea how that happened? Water will definitely disrupt the inner workings of the system.
The engine was pressure washed by the guy who sold it to me... So I'm taking a stab at it...
You do NOT want to run without the valve, It is a one-way valve that allows air to be sucked out of the booster,
but does not allow air to enter it. This is a safety solution to ensure that if the engine is turned off, or if frequent stops or pedal presses are required, the brakes still operate. Its capacity ensures that you
have enough boost for several brake applications.
I would not mess around with it and spend the couple of bucks it actually cost.
could a bad valve cause brakes to freeze up?
Russell Touchstone Thanks for watching Russell! That’s a great question! As you know, the check valve regulates the amount of vacuum pressure to-&-from brake booster. In the event that the check valve fails, you will experience a higher chance of brakes locking up.
What exactly are you experiencing with your brake system? Also has there been any recent maintenance done to the brake system in the last 12 months? This will help us try to pinpoint whether or not your brake issue has anything to do with Recent repairs.
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notifications that would be awesome thanks again Russell! 😎👍🔧🔩
DIY With Michael Borders Thanks for the response. Yes there was maintenance done couple days ago. I put a new stoplight brake switch in. Turns out that was the problem. I just slapped it in and never adjusted it. There was play in the pedal so I didn't think anything of it. After driving it for about ten minutes the break fluid heats up and needs to expand pushing on the brake peddle. After adjusting my switch to give the pedal room to fully expand everything works great.
Russell Touchstone Awesome & Thanks for the update Russell. Glad to hear you have it fixed! Let us know if you have any additional questions along the way! We have had our number of brake repairs over the years! That’s what I get for driving old rusty vehicles haha! 😎👍
DIY With Michael Borders I have a 2001 Hyundai Sonata I replaced the brake calipers front pads and front brake hoses and after bleeding the brakes my pedal is is hard I still have power assist but they brakes keep on locking up and I don't know how to make them stop locking up
How can you determine if it is only the check valve and not the booster? The symptoms sound the same.
Dwayne Garrett Thanks for checking out the video. What happens to your brake pedal after starting engine? Is Pedal hard right from the get go or does it take a few pumps to harden...Also have you had any recent repairs to your brake system? Please Subscribe to the channel. Keep me posted 😎👍
It was the booster. I had it repaired today.
Dwayne Garrett Hot diggity dog ....how much did it cost?
340
Thanks for the update!
So I have a problem I can not solve
I have replaced master cylinder because of soft squishy breaks and bled the lines and even replaced the rear drum brakes wheel cylinder in both wheels
But my new master cylinder is doing the exact same thing the old one was, it keeps blowing bubbles in the Reservoir on the brake master cylinder and I can't seem to figure out why it is doing that if you may know please get back to me thank you
Brenden Covington
What’s up Brenden? Thanks for watching & sharing your experience. Let’s get this figured out together!
The first thing that comes to mind is a possible leak with your Brake Booster.
After replacing all your parts...& refilling brake reservoir with fluid, have you noticed the fluid decreasing over a few days or weeks? If so, it’s very possible that your Brake Booster has a tiny leak & is allowing brake fluid to enter the Booster...which causes small bubbling within the system!
Let’s do a test on the Booster! Below is a link to a video that shows step-by-step process on testing your Booster!
czcams.com/video/VK4lowH7kQE/video.html
Let’s start there! Keep us posted!
Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your CZcams notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders well I did exactly what you did in the brake booster video and my brake booster did exactly what you're did so at this point I'm clueless what could be causing the bubbles
Brenden Covington
Thanks for the update Brenden! The next step is your Master Brake Cylinder. ..(MBC)
Your MBC has seals inside the housing & over time, these little seals can warp & no longer create the proper sealing requirements to work properly & efficiently.
With that said, once a seal warps, it can lead to tiny air bubbles forming in your reservoir.
We recommend contacting a few of your local repair shops & getting some quotes for a new MBC.
Inform them that you are calling several shops to get the best & most affordable price...in hopes that they will acknowledge that & give you an awesome deal.
However you can skip all this in the event that you feel comfortable replacing your MBC yourself. If you go this route, make sure that you properly bleed the MBC separately from the brake system... meaning bench bleeding with it not connecting to vehicle.
Keep us posted! We are convinced that this may be your issue!
😎👍🔧🔩
Brenden Covington
Also, we have attached a link to a video that shows and explains a little more about the Master Brake Cylinder...definitely check that out!
czcams.com/video/F9s_1VZ2u5E/video.html
😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders well I have already put a brand new master cylinder on the truck and it's still doing the same thing, blowing bubbles.
I'm really lost at this point id say I'm clueless on what it would be..