How to apply Danish Oil to any wood!
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- čas přidán 1. 02. 2021
- How to apply Danish Oil to any wood!
In this video I show how to apply Danish Oil finish. We are finishing up my son's Bookcase and this is the method we decided on using for the finish. This is one of the easiest and durable finishes that you can apply. Enjoy!
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#Danish Oil #Finishing #Woodworking
Items in this video
Watco Danish Oil Wood Finish, Natural: amzn.to/3tsEXcu
Watco Danish Oil Wood Finish, Medium Walnut: amzn.to/3ctnhaB
Watco Danish Oil Wood Finish, Black Walnut: amzn.to/2MtLXVD
Watco Danish Oil Wood Finish, Pint, Cherry: amzn.to/3rd0OT5
S&F STEAD & FAST Painters Tack Cloth Woodworking, Tack Cloth for Sticky Tack Rags: amzn.to/2MnJJqM
Another great finish (there is a video on this one to)
Wipe-On Poly Finish Clear, pint, Satin: amzn.to/3mvPWxW
Bench Cookie Plus Work Grippers with Bench Cookie Risers: amzn.to/3vUd5xF
Rockler Bench Cookie Plus Work Gripper (Single): amzn.to/3jf6Pya
Bench Cookie Cones: amzn.to/3qv95mf
Some of my favorite tools I use all the time.
Ridgid R86044B 18-Volt Brushless Compact Router: amzn.to/2T7rw35
Rockler XL Router Table Box Joint Jig: amzn.to/36CHjue
1/2" Box Joint Cauls, 4-pack: amzn.to/2NxN3Nb
CMT 801.128.11B Dado Clean out Bit: amzn.to/2LV3LHt
Bessey LHS-10 10-Inch Wood Handscrew Clamp: amzn.to/2Oyp2ZG
Freud 9/16" Depth Slotting Cutter Set with 1/2" Shank (63-162): amzn.to/2XXSHvV
Incra LS25SYS 25" Range Positioner with Pro-II Joinery Fence System: amzn.to/3ckhrFA
Incra WONDERFENCE37 Wonder Fence Router Table Fence: amzn.to/2WGy1IX
Rockler XL Router Table Box Joint Jig: amzn.to/36CHjue
INCRA I-BOX Jig for Box Joints: amzn.to/36yrR2i
Rockler Router Table Box Joint Jig: amzn.to/3cbV1Fs
CMT Solid Carbide Downcut Spiral Bit, 1/2-Inch Diameter: amzn.to/3c60xJL
Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Double Flute Straight Bit with 1/2" Shank: amzn.to/37hWaL3
Titebond II Extend, Pint: amzn.to/3jVh9Ih
Titebond II Extend, Gallon: amzn.to/3k2lNnE
Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, 1 Gal: amzn.to/2JsJAR5
Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, 1 16 oz.: amzn.to/2GydXEO
PORTER-CABLE 892 2-1/4-Horsepower Router: amzn.to/2SjOtMV
Incra LS25SYS 25" Range Positioner with Pro-II Joinery Fence System: amzn.to/3ckhrFA
Incra WONDERFENCE37 Wonder Fence Router Table Fence: amzn.to/2WGy1IX
Stanley Tools 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure: amzn.to/2BFKjuL
Powermatic 54A Deluxe 6-Inch Jointer: amzn.to/2XrVDDD
RIDGID R4512 10 in. 13-Amp Cast IronTable Saw: amzn.to/2EGfrJf
GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock : amzn.to/2EpRpkC
Camera equipment used in this video
PANASONIC LUMIX GH5 4K Digital Camera: amzn.to/2SFKgTN
PANASONIC LUMIX G VARIO LENS, 14-140MM, F3.5-5.6 ASPH: amzn.to/2K1dFnC
Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH OIS Lens: amzn.to/2LEbZDw
SmallRig GH5/GH5S Cage for Panasonic Lumix Camera: amzn.to/2YeMwTl
RigLand DSLR Wooden Handle Grip (Right Side): amzn.to/2LEhrGx
NICEYRIG Rosette Wooden Handle Grip (Left Side): amzn.to/32Pvu1m
E-Image EG03A2 2 Stage Aluminum Tripod (Black): amzn.to/2Yff0w5
Canon EOS 7D Mark II Digital SLR Camera (Body Only): amzn.to/2LDo0td
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Standard Zoom Lens: amzn.to/2SBsReO
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, we will receive a small commission at no charge to you. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for your support! - Jak na to + styl
such a calm, well-spoken guy...
Thank You Jollysossy, and thanks for watching.
love the 30 year old coffee table man. looks brand new. shows the power of danish oil and good maintenance
Yes it does Camidivx and the maintenance is minimal. Thanks for watching. Actually the coffee table is now 47 years old ( I made it in shop class in High School).
@@MadNerdWorkshophow often should danish oil be reapplied?
Super helpful! HAPPY to know my simple project will look fine with just a single, liberally-applied application. Also that I can get away with flipping my work to get all sides done at once. I was dreading having to wait 72 hours between coats when all I need is to add a simple finish to some hidden surfaces. It’s awesome your bookshelf too will look great after your one-application method. Thanks for using a good microphone and speaking clearly. Very professionally done video, easy to follow.
Thank you very much Earth2wendy and Thanks for Watching.
great simple explanation, seemed so much harder before i watched this, thank you!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Very straight forward advice. Thank you.
Thank you for watching.
Really great video, I love the way you explain clearly and calmly.
Thank you kindly! And Thanks for watching.
The commentary you shared while oiling the wood was so informative. This video was great, thank you you for making this. I'm going to be oiling a set of bench tops I scorched and this is going to be useful. Thank you, you earned a subscriber!
Glad you enjoyed it! Welcome aboard.
Thank you for a great video, very well explained and presented, the go to video for applying Danish oil
Take care
Sam (N.Ireland)
Thank you very much, Sam. You have a great day!
Very informative. Thanks for this!
I’m not sure how I just now found your channel today but now I have a lot of catching up to do. Awesome stuff so far! Subscribed.
Welcome aboard! Thanks for watching.
Awesome video and thanks for sharing - very helpful!!
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching.
Great job explaining everything!
Thanks! Thanks for Watching.
You're the man! Thank you
Thank you! and thanks for watching.
Thanks a lot for your video. As it turns out I am crap at applying stain so I am thinking of oil. Your video was very helpful and covered all my questions. Thank you. Dave from Australia.
Oil is the way to go and it is a bit easier than water base stains. You still may want to check out Pre-stain wood conditioner, they help for porous woods.
Mahalo for your excellent observations and advice!
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Very informative. I've stripped all my solid oak cabinets and love the natural look. I've decided on this danish oil natural. Crossing my fingers for a beautiful outcome.
You will like the results, good luck.
Well done. Easy to understand and very professional.
Many thanks!
Thanks for the video
You bet, always like sharing.
Thank you for this🎉
Thanks for watching.
So, i have an exposed beam celing, but I needed greater R value up there to prevent snow melting that lead to ice damming issues. I had spray foam insulation applied and have pine boards to cover the insulation and beams, and I have been trying to decide what product to use on the pine boards to seal them.
This video has been super helpful!
At this point, i just need to trim to length, sand, and apply danish oil! Oh,all.most forgot, hang the boards!
That should end up looking quite nice Ron. Thanks for watching.
Thank you!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Thanks so much
Any time, and thanks for watching.
Lots of videos of people applying Danish Oil out there, and everyone does it a bit different, but for some reason yours stand out to me. Seems like you know what you're doing; I'll follow your instructions when I try out my Watco Danish Oil!
Thank you for that 26chairs. It was actually the way I learned to apply it when I was in shop class in high school. It has worked well for me all my life. Don't forget, if you have wood like oak, you will have to wipe it off every few hours for at least a day as it seeps back up. Enjoy.
@@MadNerdWorkshop I'm new to woofworking in general, and until I tried my Watco Danish Oil on some common boards a few weeks back, I wasn't aware of pine (and similar soft woods)'s reputation for blotching when stained. Well, that's exactly what happened. Do you know if using the kind of pre-stain you'd use before applying an oil stain might reduce blotchiness for Danish Oil?
@@Nebx1989 Yes pine will cause some issues with blotching when staining. You can use pre-stain wood conditioner that will help some with the blotching. Minwax conditioner is a good one to use. But don't wait for it to completely dry before applying Danish oil. You will have anywhere between 15-minutes and 2 hours before it dries out. Also, you may need more than one coat of Danish oil because the first coat may appear lighter than advertised.
No ..not “seems like”
he does ..know what he s doing.
Just the instruction I was seeking thanks.
@@MadNerdWorkshopI had to use conditioner for my pine bed and applied a walnut stain. Now it’s dry, should I re condition the wood and then apply danish oil or is it ok to do now after the stain?
thank you Sir for the great advice as I am about to restore a furniture item.
Excellent! Danish Oil is a great choice for restoring furniture. Make sure everything is stripped down to the bare wood before applying. Have fun with it.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks ,yep I stripped a nice old wooded bar stool bare and gave it 4 coats of Danish and it looks brilliant. cheers for your advice, I'm real happy. cheers NZ
Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
I'm using Danish Oil for the first time on a project and I love the way it looks on the test pieces that I've done so far. It is incredibly easy to work with. Some stains I feel like I have to hurry up and wipe it off before it gets darker than I want, but applying the Danish Oil is super easy and stress free. Relaxing, almost.
I'm using it on Poplar, by the way. It really makes the lighter brown tones pop. I does turn the greens a little darker but the smooth finish is remarkable (for me, anyway, being my first time using it).
I agree with you Awl, the application of Danish Oil is very stress free. Thanks for watching.
Just did my first coat and it is exactly what I thought. Very relaxing and stress free.
INCREDIBLY HELPFUL! THANK YOU!
Glad it helped and thanks for watching.
Perfectly timed comment regarding drip marks on the edge, as one creeps down the left camera facing edge!
Yea, what are you going to do. I see fine sandpaper in my future.
1:25 into the show you answered my question! Thank you Mr Reid!
Great and thanks for watching.
Great and thanks for watching
thanks
You're welcome, and thanks for watching.
Buy the clear and small quantity of dark and mix to the shade you want.
That would work.
Thank you! I kept layering the dish oil on my table and the machine is not even… So I appreciate your explanation. My question is… I’m using this on my dining room table, I will go back and sand before adding another layer, will danish oil create enough of a protective seal for a dining room table
This video’s great! Wonderful explanation! Do you think that a lower temperature would affect the way it soaks in, or would it just take longer? Thanks!!
I know a lower temperature would take longer to cure and I would think that would allow the oil to soak in more. But I am not really sure how much of a difference it would make. Too low of a temperature would mess up the finish entirely.
Really cool! Im gonna use that on a reclaimed honey locust wood table. What are the little blue things you have your wood sitting on?
That will look really nice Bonnie. Those little blue things are Bench cookies from Rockler. They are a must have, at least for my shop. Thanks for watching.
Do you need to shake it before applying? I have some danish oil stain that separates so just the clear oil is on top. That’s what I want. I’m just worried that it won’t work properly If I don’t shake it.
you would need to shake it for it to work that way it should. If you want the clear oil, use natural Danish oil. As with all oil base products, you will get a slight warmer look when done.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks! I’ll put it on the list.
Excellent presentation on Danish oil! What sanding grits did you use before applying the Watco oil? Along the same line is there too fine a grit that inhibits the penetration of the oil? Thanks in advance.
I stop at 180 grit, I don't know if a finer grit would inhibit the penetration of the oil. In my early days, I did go down to 320-400 grit, but I find the finish looked exactly like the 180 grit. So I decided not to do the extra work.
I usually apply Danish oil with a cloth. The brands I've used have consisted of two parts tung oil and one part varnish. Fire risk is indeed a concern.
Applying it with a rag is a good method, and you get a nice thin coat. I agree with you on the fire risk, but you can just soak the rags in water or flatten them out to dry. Thanks for sharing Cathal.
Blue shop towels tend to leach the blue color with thinner based stuff for me
I would agree with that.
Great video! I just oiled our new oak worktop using the technique. Would you still think applying the oil only once will protect the worktop sufficiently?
it will for a while, but you will be using that quite a bit. You could easily add another coat.
Hey, thanks for the great video! I have a question can we mix oil wood stain with Danish oil for dark color or is it better just stain the wood & than use polyurethane over it? Thanks
Vic key, I have never tried mixing stain with Danish oil, but I would think that would work. Mix a small amount and try it on a scrap piece of wood. Danish oil does come in different colors so you can skip the staining step all together. Hopefully that helps, and thanks for watching.
We have wainscoting in a number of rooms in our home. 1x6 pine t&g. At the time(*25+ yrs ago), we stained with penofin, but no "sealer" of any kind. Now, in corners and a few other areas (one room is floor to ceiling in this wood application) there is a white moist, mildewey like substance that builds up on the interior. I can figure out how to remove that (and get the rooms dried out sufficiently) but do you think Danish oil would be a good method of sealing the wood panels after that? I do not want anything shinier than a satin finish. But I would also like to use something that provides some UV protection. All of the wood is pine, and over time it has darkened considerably. I would prefer that it not darken any more. Your recommendations are appreciation!
Ginger, Waco Danish Oil does provide a good amount of the protection from moisture protection, it does not have a high level of UV Protection. But there are other brands of Danish Oil that do provide a level of UV Protection and they will state that on the label. Even Natural Danish Oil will darken down the wood a little bit and give it a warmer color cast. I think it would be a good indoor finish for your room. But if you are really worried about the Moisture, Varnish would be a better choice. I hope that helps and have fun with the refinishing.
Great video! What is your recommendation for sanding prior to applying the finish? Specifically, what level of sandpaper grit do you sand to prior to the first application? 220 grit? 320 grit? My apologies if I missed that detail.
James, I will generally stop at 180 grit. But for harder woods, you can go down to 220 if you like. Thanks for watching.
@@MadNerdWorkshop good to know. I’ve used shellac, pure tung oil, GF Arm-r-Seal, Watco wipe on poly, etc, but never Danish oil. I’m looking for a quick and easy finish for a coat rack. Thanks for the response and for producing great content. Good stuff!
I loved your table! That's quite a piece for a high school woodwork classes.
Will damp-dusting after sanding raise the grain and spoil the finish?
if you already raised the grain with the water, then sand, you can absolutely damp-dust with water, just let completely dry. If you raise the grain again, then you did more than damp dust. After my finished sand, I only dry dust or lightly use a tack cloth to remove any dust. This is because, when you apply Danish oil, it soaks into the wood, but will still has a wet surface. So when you wipe it off, that generally takes any dust left on the wood off into the wiping rag.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks. The comment and video contained a lot of important points and tips I would have missed, never having used Danish oil before. I want to make a good job of my workstation. It's pine, and has sat unfinished for some years now, since it was put in, picking up all manner of stains.😐Want to sand all off and make it look the best it can. I cannot get over the high sheen finish of this oil, it looks like varnish!
@@jennytaylor3324 You're welcome Jenny. Have fun with it and you will like that finish.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you, I believe I will. Keep on keeping on with the tips and tricks.👍😎
Well done video. Question:finishing a hardwood plywood, is it necessary to apply first a wood grain filler?
You can or you can skip that part. Generally for me it depends on the wood. Oak plywood or other semi porous wood, I would use it. Maple or other tight grained wood I may not. Either way it doesn't hurt to use it on all wood, it just adds a step to the finish process. Hope that helps.
I have a bunch of incredibly old wood I got for free (probably as old as I am), so it is incredibly dry as well. I am using it to build raised garden beds for outdoors and was going to use tried and true danish oil and shellac for finish. Should I sand the wood pieces to apply the danish oil? or just 0000 steel wool is okay? that was all the instructions say. they are a bunch of 2x4 pieces. Thanks for the video.
That all depends on whether or not you want a rustic look to the wood or a finish look. I would at least sand down to 150 before applying the danish oil (finish look). Then you can use the steel wool on the danish oil before applying the shellac. I am not really sure how waterproof that finish will be for a raised garden bed. I would consider using Thomson's water seal to help make that wood stand up to the outside weather, water and sun. I hope that helps. That should be a nice looking raised garden bed, I made mine out of those stacking stone.
Nice video, we have a 8 year old outdoor table think its ( Kwila (Merbau) timber). Its undercover away from the elements and sun. It looks nice and redish back has lost its nice gloss glow look. There are no dents scratches or stains on it. What would help, as in an Oil. Thanks
Thanks Tugboat, as for which oil will help protect it. Well you can use any of the oils (tung, Danish, Linseed) for that. If you want to keep the look and color of the wood, then Natural Danish oil would be the best. It will give it a little warmer color cast. I have never worked or actually seen Kwila timber. But if it is something like other exotic woods, then maybe a little sanding will bring back the original color then the oil will help to save that look. All though the sun will still drakes or bleach the wood (depending on how it reacts to it) over time. Good luck with that project, it should be nice when you are finished. Thanks for watching.
The Rustins brand Danish oil I have instructs to apply at least 3 coats, and suggests using a plastic scouring pad to apply the final coat. What do you make of this?
Hi Kitty, You can do that for the last coat. Be sure to use quality Scouring pad (brand and grit the manufacturer recommends). I believe the purpose for doing this is to make sure you have a good coat and penetration into the wood. if you have any area where the coat is thin, the scouring pad will work the fresh oil into the wood.
Do Denish oil gives enought protection like lacquer even its applied for several layeres...
thanks❣
Danish oil does not build up, so having a number of coats will not make that much difference. Not to mention the finish will not dry out very well. Although Danish oil is not the most durable finish (compared to Lacquer or Varnish) I do find it durable for any indoor furniture. The good thing is that is it very easy to refinish when it needs it. Lacquer and Varnish will require a good amount of work to refinish. I hope that answers your question and thanks for watching.
Great video! what if you use a paper towel to wipe off the excess oil? do you put it in water too so it doesn't combust?
You can do that, Water will always prevent it from combusting. You can also just flatten them out so they dry without being in a ball. Once dry, you should be ok.
Great on wooden arrows.....allegedly. 🤗🤗
That is good to know. I have never used them on arrow, but that would make sense. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the informative video. I have 2 questions as this is my 1st time refinishing anything or using Danish Oil. #1) My piece is a light oak. I bought Medium Walnut to deepen the colour of it to coordinate with an antique Spinning Wheel (I haven't restored that). As this is my 1st time doing this, will I struggle to get an even look & should have purchased the Natural Danish Oil instead? 2) Regarding the actual application you said to do it in sections but your example was a small board so you were able to do it all in 1 pass through plus is was flat. I've just sanded down an antique Oak Wool Weasel (it's for winding yarn). This piece has 4 legs, a base, a trunk then 6 arms that look like croquet mallets. How would you approach applying the Danish Oil to avoid it getting tacky? Thanks for any input you can provide & I'm so happy I found you tonight before I attempt to apply the Danish Oil. Your Son is lucky to have you as a his Dad to learn from your vast knowledge!
if you can apply the finish within 15 minutes and have time to go back over it again while it is still wet you should be good. Maybe try a spray bottle to apply it (I have never done this so experiment on a sample piece). If you can spray it all over and keep it wet for 10-15 minutes then wipe it off, you should be good. Any time you use a stain finish you run the risk of getting an uneven color. Natural will help but you will not get the dark color your looking for.
Great video. If you are applying several coats. Say for a desk space. Would you still leave at least 72hrs between each coat?
I generally apply a new coat the next day, however, I only put on two coats. But, if you have the time you can wait for the complete cure at 72 hours.
Hello! Thanks for the video. I just bought a vintage teak dining table from the 1970s and as I understand - it had a fresh coat of Danish Oil applied prior me buying it. It arrived beautiful.
But what I noticed only after one Christmas dinner - is that it now has scratches all over it! I was so careful with it, and it looks scratched and slightly dull in areas where I had, I guess - a warm, candle holder sitting for a few hours!
Is that normal?
Would you recommend me to apply something else on top of that surface, something that is more durable?
And what do you think about me buying Danish Oil and just applying it straight onto the surface as it is now, without sanding it down? Would I ruin my table?
Do I definitely have to sand it before applying another coat of Danish Oil?
Would this oil fill the scratches that have now appeared on the surface or do I need some other filler for that?
Thank you for taking your time reading this.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I have not had a warm candle holder sitting on my Danish Oil finished furniture, so I am not sure how that would affect it. But I would think it would do something to it. I would sand it down, at least until the scratches are out and then reapply a coat of Oil. But you could try just applying the Danish Oil (in a small area) and seeing if that covers the scratches. If not then you would be just refinishing it anyway. If you do apply a different finish, just make sure any oil is completely dry, just follow the label directions. Because I am not there to see the problem, please use your own judgement as how to go about repairing the surface. You could also try contacting the person or company you purchased it from and ask them what you can do.
Great video! I’m planning on using Danish Oil on really thin maple to act as a skin/ case for my iPad. Since Danish Oil is combustible, should I be concern with the heat from the iPad? Perhaps I can clear coat as well?
Hi Kites, You don't have to worry about it being combustible, it is only combustable when it is drying. But with all that rubbing on the case, you will have to refinish it maybe once a year. If you use your iPad as much as I do. But refinishing is just a matter of a bit of light sanding and reapplying another coat. The nice thing, it will look as good as new. Thanks for watching.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks for the reply! Would u recommend a wood conditioner on the maple, and would a clear coat at the end work?
P.S. We are on the Oregon coast, so very humid here.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the informative video! You've empowered me to tackle some old window frames. When working with old wood, do you recommend any type of cleaning prior to applying the Danish Oil?
If they are painted I would use some paint remover and some good sanding. But keep in mind that the Danish Oil is not really good for wood that is exposed to the elements. It is not durable to that kind of exposure. Hope that helps.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Hello and thanks for responding to my question! The windows are in a 50 year old house. I'm thinking of using Danish Oil on the insides, not the exterior side. There isn't any paint on them. It looks like they've been stained, but if there was ever any type of sealer applied, it has worn off. So they're a dark color, but feel like bare wood. Does that make sense?
@@JoanOnTheNet That will be ok then. I would still give them a good sanding with 180-220 grit.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you so much!
Danish Oil seems ok for book shelves, but I don't think it's suitable for a high-traffic kitchen worktop. I followed the great advice here. Worked perfectly as described. It's been down for a week, nothing sticks to it, but I dragged a tray across it and it scratched. Anyone else had problems with Danish Oil on a kitchen surface?
Danish Oil on Kitchen worktops will require some maintenance because it is not the hardest finish out there. Fortunately it is an easy fix with a little sanding and oil.
No one said it was
Well, thanks, no one. @@Solid_Jackson
@@iandsmithyou silly billy, I know you’re lonely, but answering questions no one asked isn’t a good look
Your uploads actually have some value tho, so keep going down that route
natural brush vs nylon vs sponge???
ty useful today for my projects Kenn
I hope it helps. Thanks for watching.
Planning to use this same danish oil on an IKEA tabletop (GERTON) that is unfinished solid beech. Does it need to be sanded before applying the oil? If yes, what grit do you recommend?
The tabletop is quite large and about 70 lbs and I don’t think I’ll be able to flip it back and forth so easily. Do I have to oil the underside of the table as well? Will it affect the integrity of the tabletop if I only apply the oil to the top and sides? Thanks!
I believe those come already sanded, but you may want to touch it up with a light sanding with a little 320 or 400 grit. For me, I would apply the oil to both sides if you have easy access to it. But it should not hurt it just finishing one side of it. Thanks for watching.
I have a Butcher Block that I converted to three side tables for my living-room. Would danish oil cause them to come unglued?
My coffee table you see in my image for my channel is all glued up wood and has been finished with Danish Oil for over 45 years and no separation on that.
Thinking about using this on raw white pine tongue & groove. Do you know if the wood ages yellow or gray or does it stay natural looking?
I would think it would have a gold/yellow look to it. I have not tried it on raw white pine. Let me know how it comes out. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video and informative, didn't know you need to shake or wipe off. Would it be possible or dangerous to "stabilize" the wood in a vacuum chamber so it penetrates 100% on the first go? (New to wood stabilization)
I am not sure that Wood stabilization would work for this. When you stabilize would you reduce the atmosphere so that all the air is pulled out of the wood. Then when you re-introduce air into the chamber the vacuum caused in the wood pulls in the resin. The resin doesn’t need Air to Cure, that happens through heat. Oil needs air to cure, So I’m not sure if it could dry in the center of the wood. But I have never tried it, so I can’t be sure.
@@MadNerdWorkshop your right I agree, I'll just stick to applying it the way I have been, thanks
I tried following instructions of the back on a Danish Oil bottle I bought recently. Unfortunately, I didn't realise I was meant to wipe after about 30mins. I've got tacky areas and dry spots now. What's your advice on remedying this, and avoiding the sticky areas in the future?
Great video, and thanks!
Sorry to hear that Kenny. I would sand it down back to smooth. If it is warm out, I just let it sit a couple of minutes then wipe. This will prevent it from pooling up and forming those sticky area. Best advice is wipe after 5-8 minutes, before any pools start to dry. Or wipe it on very thin so no pools can form. Hope that helps.
Thanks, I was hoping to avoid sandng down, but looks like it's unavoidable. I appreciate the help.
Very helpful thank you 😊 although I realised after my application that I have a low sheen Danish oil. I’ll just go over top with wax ☺️
That should work, Thanks Jessica and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the informative video! I saw someone else have trouble using Danish oil on cedar, it turned out splotchy. Others recommended for cedar and softwoods a diluted Danish oil finish first (I guess mostly mineral spirits or thinner?). And then a coat of Danish oil. Have you experienced this splotchy look of Danish oil with cedar wood/ other soft woods?
Also I have a decently big room of cedar paneling that’s been up for years. I know you recommend sanding and all. But what would happen if I didn’t sand and used Danish oil on it? Appreciate your thoughts and knowledge!!
I always use natural Danish oil so there is no problem with it being splotchy. That happened most of the time when using Daish oil as a stain and thinning it out could help it with that. One of the reasons I recommend sanding is that danish oil works best by allowing it to penetrate the wood. Having a finish on it would not allow it to that. If you want to try it without sanding, apply a little in a spot that is not so noticeable, see how it looks. If you have any scratches in it or dirt, that danish oil will not be able to cover that up. Not Sure if any of that helps.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you so much for the reply and the tip to use Danish oil natural to avoid splotchy areas. That does help a lot.
The area with the cedar walls panels is pretty except some water marks which I want to clean and sand off. It’s a pretty big area of wall that I was looking to avoid sanding it all. It is bare wood also, so no previous coats. I was wondering if the areas I do sand would accept the Danish oil much differently than the areas I might not sand. I might have to experiment and test out some spots.
But I appreciate the tip on using only the natural Danish oil with soft woods. Or the other possible option of thinning down a color. Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated!
Hi!! need some advice - I'm working on building a walnut casket. Hoping to finish with danish oil or something similar, I detest working with poly - would I expect any difficulty with finishing on vertical surfaces or corners with danish or other oils? It's also a pretty large surface area - should I apply in sections?
Sorry for the delay mikrusty. because Danish oil penetrates into the wood you should have no difficulty with finishing on vertical surfaces and you will wipe it away before it dries so there should be no problem with it in the corners. Hope that helps.
I am putting Danish oil on plywood panels which a sculpture will be installed on. The panels will hang vertically to support wire sculpture. If I wanted to put a varnish over the oil to make the surface stronger or longer lasting, what would you recommend? Thank you for a great video
Any varnish will do, just let it dry for at least 72 hours before applying the Varnish. Good luck with the project.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you! It's great you are still responding to questions.
Thank you for the information just wanted to ask you I already put together a kitchen island I was going to use this product do you think that’s OK? Or should I use a different product? It’s going in the kitchen like I said I already put it together, so I’m gonna try to do this while it’s assembled
Danish oil will be ok for that. Danish Oil is not the most durable finish, but it is easy to redo at a later date. You can try it and if it wears too fast, you can refinish it with another coat of Danish Oil and add a couple coats of wipe on poly. Just let the Danish oil dry completely (about 72 hours or more).
@@MadNerdWorkshop thank you so much
I just did a countertop for my little camp (Red oak). Came out great. However, after about a week or so, I went back to the garage and it had a bunch of tiny "zits" that had squeezed up through the grain in places. I took some oil and 600 grit to it and it smoothed out nicely. Fast forward another week and a half, same thing. When I sanded, I spent a lot of hours looking for bleeding and nothing came up. How long should this usually keep happening? Today was a warm day and they popped up again.
unfortunately Mike, Red Oak is the worst for seeping. When I did my table it took about a week for all of it to clear up. I just wiped it down with a cloth until it stopped. But I like your idea with the oil and 600 grit. It will greatly slow down after a couple of day, then stop all together when the oil that penetrated the deepest starts to set up. Let me know when all of zits stop appearing.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks. I have an idea as to why it popped up the second time. I'd been working on the top and decided to give the bottom some oil too. It will never be seen but I figured it should have a coating on it. I'm thinking that swelled the wood more and is causing the zits. I did have it on the back of my tuck the other day, in the sun. When I went to move it back inside, it was very slightly tacky on top. As it is my first run with Danish oil, I think I could have let it sit longer between coats. 4-8 hr. is what I used, and it was low humidity and warm.
Just made corbels out of walnut and don’t want to use poly over the stain. Would danish oil be ok or should I use a wax for a little sheen and protection?
at this point I would use the wax for the sheen and the little protection it provides. You could use natural Danish Oil but it will change the color of the stain like Poly would.
After applying the Danish oil, can I apply an oil based polyurethane for more water protection for our computer desks in case we set drinks down etc. how long after applying the danish oil (a coat or two) should we wait? when its dry to the touch? or rub with a cloth? should i sand it a little with 320grit before applying first poly? great video.
Brett, for me I would wait at least 48 hour or more depending on how porous the wood is. Oil base polyurethane should be ok, I never has a problem with it. but please just to make sure ( there are many different brands out there) oil up a scrap piece of the same wood and apply that finish to that first. This is well worth the time to make sure all is compatible. I would give it a light sanding with 320 to 600 grit just to remove any micro dust. Then make sure it is cleaned off well, before applying the polyurethane. Keep in mind that applying polyurethane over Danish oil will make it much tougher to apply any recoat later in the future. I hope that helps, good luck.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks! For the finish after Danish Oil, I was actually going to use equal parts mineral spirits equal parts minwax oil based polyurethane satin finish and just wipe it on and do 4 or 5 coats, and do a light sanding of about 600 grit between coats of poly. This is all just in case I spill my coffee on the desk or water rings. Is it needed with the Danish oil or does it offer enough protection to combat water/coffee?
@@CommonSenseAdult Making a poly wipe-on will give it better protection and that will help with spills and coffee rings. The coffee table I did in high school (47 years ago - damm, I am old) has only had Danish Oil and I never had any problem with spill or water ring. I have reapplied the oil at least twice, maybe three time since then, but only to give it that like new look, not because of any damage from spills. I think the poly for a desk would be a good idea, because you will be using it more than my coffee table and it will have more accidental bumps and hits. Also the poly will give it a deeper and richer finish. If you every post a finish photo of it, let me know, I would like to see it. Thanks Brett and talk care.
Can I place books without the danger of contamination? Can I use mineral oil in the mix (in place of linseed oil)?
Molambo, I have books on this one, after about a week the oil is dry enough to let the books rest on them. Now if you finished it and the next day you packed it with books and left them there in the same spot for a year or two. Then you may have some problem with them sticking to the shelf. Now if you have some rare books, I would check on how to store them properly, because an oiled surface may not be the the best place to leave them if you are worried about contamination. I do not have that knowledge so I can't make any recommendations for that, sorry. I am not sure about mineral oil in place of linseed oil, never tried that. I hope that helps. Take care.
Thank you! Do you know if this oil is suitable for wood that will later be in contact with food?
I don't know for sure Joe. I would not use it for a bowl or cutting board that will have raw food on it.
Thanks for the video. If I want a second coat like you mentioned. How long do I let it dry before sanding with the 600 wet/dry?
When I sand, I would give it a day. Just to make sure any small pools will not clog the sandpaper.
I used some light walnut Danish oil on pine and it can out quite blotchy, especially on any cross or end grain. Any recommendations? Perhaps a pre stain conditioner or some kind of pore sealer?
On pine, I would use a pre stain conditioner, that will help seal the pores and let the stain soak in at the same rate.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks for your reply. I tried what you suggested and then kept the finish wet for 3o minutes to give it lots of time to soak in. Wiped it down and wow!!
What a mess!
Want to by a can of light walnut Danish oil?? Ill let you have it cheap!
I am pretty sure this can of stuff just does not like me.
@@Myfiddles same here. We used the dark walnut on butcher block countertop. Started with wood conditioner. Then the Watco Danish oil. Followed directions to a T. It is very blotchy and has a very orange cast. Not happy with it at all! So much work & so disappointed! After the Holidays we will try to change it in some way. Did you change/redo yours?
@@kimberlyshada9716 I sanded back to the bare wood and used this instead "SamaN Interior One Step Wood Seal, Stain and Varnish " Awesome product. Threw the Danish oil in the garbage where it belongs.
@@Myfiddles Thank you for your reply. I'm guessing that is what we will do too.
Hello John, about a year ago I applied Watco Danish oil on a new beech office desk (sanding followed by 4 coats). I am starting to see minor change of colour where I put my arms everyday. Can I spot re-apply the product or do I need to reapply a full coat... also do I need to re-sand? Big thanks in advance.
I would just sand that area and a little beyond, try applying it and see how it blends. Oils will generally blend well, with the old coat and this could save you time and effort. But, if it doesn't then do a full re-sand and just reply on the top. The sides should match up well without having to redo them too. The nice thing is that it will not take much sanding (as compared to other finishes) before you can apply the new finish. Good luck with it and let me know how it came out. Thanks for watching.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks! I will try this
I noticed that you finished both sides using the bench cookie cones to keep the bottom elevated while you were actively keeping the shelf wet with the finish. How long do you have to keep the shelf off another surface once you are done wiping it dry?
I will let them sit overnight and them stand them on their end for at lest 3 days. That way they are fully cured before placing anything on top of them.
It says right on the can, ready for use in 8-10 hours
I use danish oil all the time and really like it. I will rub it in with my hands on smaller pieces. If you were going to top coat with poly, how long do you have to wait?
Can says 72 hours...but I usually go 7 days
Agree with Matthew, generally 72 hours, but that will depend on the weather and humidity. It is always safe to wait a week to prevent any area that may not have dried yet. Thanks for watching.
I agree with you Matthew, I will always wait a week.
If you use danish oil on a wall shelf, is there any risk that some of the oil will seep into the drywall and leave an oily mark on the wall?
Que, if you let it dry for about a week you should be ok. I not had any problems with it seeping into painted drywall.
Thanks for the video! After you put water on the rags with danish oil (when project is complete), what do you do with the rags then? Are they fine to throw in the trash after they have water on them? Thanks!!
The idea is to soak them in water so they can't combust. The oil is still in the rag. I spread them out on my concert driveway so they are flat, making sure there is nothing near them. After they are dry I collect them in a metal container until I have enough of them to take them to the hazard waste center for disposal. I can't say what your regulation is for trash pick up, so you would have to check with them to make sure it is ok to throw out. But if you let them dry completely they will not combust, that only is possible during the drying process. I how that answers your question.
@@MadNerdWorkshop very helpful! Thanks so much for the reply and clarification
@@michaeladebolt3116 you're welcome
Because Danish oil soaks into the wood, does that mean that no color can be added after the first application of Danish oil? Would you say that if you were going to stain the wood that it needs to be done before the application of Danish oil? If I mix a stain in with the Danish oil would that work? And would subsequent applications of the stain/oil mix darken or color the wood more each time?
It would be best to stain before applying the Danish oil. I have never tried to mixing the stain and Danish oil, so I can't answer that. But you could try that out on a scrap piece of wood and see how it works. Also, Danish oil does have different colors (Stains) that you can buy for an all in one application. I hope that helps Bill, let me know how it all works out.
Thanks for your well made video.
I'm looking for advice on the best product for a kitchen worktop.
I've bought a Rustin's product which is water based and tried that on one separate section. It's ok but it shows brush marks slightly.
I've researched Osmo and I'm considering using that on another separate section.
I've listened to other videos and they indicate that due to the wear and tear that as kitchen worktop receives due to chemical cleaning for anti bacterial purposes; and the worktop bring frequently wet around the tap area (it's a Belfast sink) that the Danish oils do not stand up.
I'm doing this job tomorrow so if there's any way that you can reply soon it'd be greatly appreciated.
Best
Sam
You are correct Samuel, Danish oil would not be the best choice for that. With the constance water exposure to the Danish oil finish and the cleaning chemicals, it would not be able to stand up to that. Epoxy counter tops seems to be a good alternative, most of the time they have color in them, but I would think you could just use clear. I have worked with epoxy before, but not for a counter top, so I am afraid I can't provide any help on that.
to confirm, do you continue to lightly apply it over a 15 minute span?
I keep the area wet for the entire time and that will require lightly applying the oil over the 10-15 minutes. Hope that helps explains.
I found out danish oil natural type got many model number.. what is the different between them? Like 242219, 65751 etc..
Hi Valent, I do not know about the different numbers. That may be the part numbers for the different stain colors for the danish oil, but I have never noticed them before.
Can danish oil be applied in low temperatures such as 30 degrees fahrenheit? if applied indoors, will the smell be overpowering or dangerous?
I have never applied it at such low temperature, but I would think it would affect it ability to dry and cure. For me the smell is overpowering and I alway apply it in a well ventilated area, generally with the garage door opened.
QUESTION. after a few coats of Danish oil then will Tonge oil give me a gloss shin ?
I am not sure on that one. Wipe on poly will.
Watco fooled me making it seem like this was stain and a poly protective coat as well...now I have to buy some sort pf sealant as well. Im sort of mad about it. It was expensive and I could have just bought ANT stain and it would look the exact same as if I used so called "danish oil". Im mad I have to buy something else on top of buying this
I do have a coffee table that I made 48 years ago and I have recoated twice in that time but it still holds up well. It is not as durable as poly, but it will hold up to light use such as setting things on it. I would not expect it to hold up as well for like a dinning table that you use every day.
I love American accents!
Thanks and thanks for watching.
Can I use mineral spirits to lighten the shade of a color?
I am not sure on that. Thin a small amount and try it on a test piece of wood.
Can I put a coat or two of Howard's beeswax over this for added protection and look, or is that overkill? I'm new to woodworking but have found woodworking to be the most relaxing things I can do. But I'm having trouble with finishes. Getting that perfect finish for myself. I like that natural look but just a bit darker. Not much but just a touch darker and more of that warm, buttery finish I've seen on some of the pieces my grandfather used to make. He passed when I was young or I'd have asked him.
I am not sure TheReal Propst, but you can try it in a small part and see how it looks. I generally stop with just the Danish Oil.
Can you build a top coat with it if you want to?
No, Danish oil does not build up to form a top coat.
I just finished a cherry top for a large computer desk. Would the danish oil be a good finish for the cherry top? Thanks
It would be a good finish, but it may not be the best choice. First it will no make the surface smooth for your desk if you plan on doing any writing on it. In addition, it is not the most durable finish for desktops. The nice thing about it is that it is easy to refinish if it starts to wear and you can apply another type of finish over it if needed. Not sure if that helps you.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks! I would like to use the danish oil and then coat with the least glossy finish possible maybe a satin poly was my thoughts. I color grade video footage and do not want a super reflective top. Any thoughts?
@@jonathanhall5670 I think that would work just fine and using a satin poly is a good decision. I use DaVionci Resolve for all my videos :)
@@MadNerdWorkshop o your wise my friend!! I run a production company and do all my work in Resolve. It’s the best editor by far!!
Where can I buy those standoffs the peace of wood is playing on?
Rockler sell them, Bench cookies with paint cap on them.
I’ve got some minwax black walnut stain I just applied to my bedroom door , I also have some danish oil , can I apply danish oil on my door over the stain???? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me since I don’t want to use a polyurethane clear coat
You can apply it if the stain did not seal the wood. But most of the time you should use the danish oil with stain already in it. Danish oil needs to penetrate into the wood to provide the finish. I would recommend trying a scrap piece of wood with the Minwax stain applied and them put on some Danish oil and see how that looks.
Can i use oil finish on a piece that has veneer on it? Could the oil affect the glue underneath the veneer so that the veneer would come off?
That would depend on the veneer, Plywood is a veneer wood and there is no problem with Danish oil. I did a jewelry box 40 years ago, it has a inlay veneer top. So far no problem.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Okay. Thank you
Can you spray Polyutherene 24 hours after applying the danish oil?
The can of Danish Oil states to wait 72 hours and I always wait at least that amount of time. You want to make sure the oil is dry before sealing it up with Poly. Hope that helps.
Do you need wood conditioner for softwood like pine?
yes you could use it. I would absolutely use it for any of the Danish Oil that have stains in them.
Thank you 👌
My table has some big chalky looking spots. Any deas what went wrong?
It would be a couple of things, something in the wood, oil or wax on the wood. Even old Danish Oil or too low temperature. I have never experienced it so I really can't say. But I am sure Watco has a help line or help on line and should be able to help you with that. Sorry I can't be more help. But thank you for watching.
Before applying the danish oil, do you want to wipe the wood down with mineral spirits or alcohol? I tried this on pine, one side having been whipped down w/alcohol before hand and the other side just wiping off any saw dust and the side that I wiped down w/alcohol before hand appeared to absorb the oil more uniformly. Is this just my mind playing tricks on me or should this make much of a difference?
That would make sense to me Drew. Using mineral spirits or alcohol will raise the grain, that could let in more of the oil, allowing it to sink deeper into the wood. Also, it will most likely remove more of the saw dust, which could block some of the wood fibers stopping the oil from soaking in. If it seem better to you, then keep doing it. The main thing is to have a finish you like and are happy with. Thanks for sharing.
How does hard rock maple take this process?
I work with hard maple and it does well with it.
How do you get the smell out of the treated wood?
The Danish Oil will dissipate within a month.