Easy DIY Solution to Treat Rising Damp in Walls
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Dryrod Damp Proofing Rods
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Roger uses one of his favourite products for treating rising damp internally in brick walls.
We show you how to treat damp walls in an old house internally with Dryrod from Safeguard Europe, their latest development in Rising Damp treatment. Dryrod provides a highly effective damp-proof course even in saturated internal walls. This results in salts in the wall being less mobile and therefore less able to migrate further into the plaster.
Further reading: www.dryrods.com
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#Damp #Dryrod #DIY
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I do it the right way 😁👍
Can I do this from the outside and save on the plastering from the inside. Thankyou
Can you please list all the items needed
How would I use this on a fibro wall. It's like gyprock
Brilliant! Just completed my first 10 rods. I'm a woman with zero experience. Kit comes with 50 rods, a cutter, a drill bit and Stormdry mortar in a tube. I'm proud of myself. 😊
More fool you, wait until you have to get it done properly..
Well done 👏 👏
Well-done you if you want job doing wright do it yourself.
what is the kit called ?
its ok ive seen
Yet another EXCELLENT video from Roger. Always an enjoyable informative experience. Keep up the great videos.
Rogers a top guy. Give great advice. He doesn't prattle on, gets straight to it.
Roger I love your videos. I am watching 24/7. I just bought my bungalow and it is in a real mess with damp. I'm getting old and a bit fragile, little money, but hey ho I am going to have a go at this a bit at a time. You have encouraged me greatly to do this job. Much gratitude for all your help and skills. Bless you.
Great video Roger. You make it possible for us novice DIY folk to get jobs done in the house without paying a fortune.
I had this done about 10 years ago in Australia. Then salt retardant went into the render. Never had a problem again. Love your work Rog!
Was the brick scalloping?
Agreed use the salt retardant after for the sand cement render base
,
Was it double brick wall?
Mate , where did you buy it from in aus ? I can't find it
Thank you Roger, I have a huge issue with rising damp and I have been quoted over 10K to probably do what you recommended, I will give it a go, Many thanks for all your great videos.
Great instructions 👍👍👍. This is something new that I've never seen. Thanks skill builders.
Great job Roger, your a life saver mate. Top guy 🇵🇰🇵🇰🇵🇰🇵🇰👌👌👌
Brilliant, thanks for making it so simple and clear.
That’s really good. I didn’t know this system existed. Thank you
Thank you so much looking forward to trying this for my garage
Nice to see the old Panasonic sds in action
Brilliantly explained and thank you for introducing me to the great product. I live in a very old house and the rising damp is only very slight in one corner of a room. I was going to get specialists in but not now. Many thanks Roger and please keep going with your great channel.
I've just bought some, now hope for the best. Thanks for sharing.
Did this to my house just over a year ago now. Has stopped our kitchen wall crumbling from the bottom up on the inside. I agree with comments that there is often a "root cause" to also deal with. But I didn't fancy tearing my driveway up so if this sorts it for at least a few years until I can then sounds good to me! (I have no reason to believe it won't last much longer). Cheap and easy to do.
Is the drive sending water towards the house?
@@michaelbalfour3170 it was yes. We redid the driveway 6 months ago and now have a suitable drain channel. But this fix did hold for the 3 or so years it was in place to be fair.
@@25johnlowehow is the wall holding up?
@@NYUTU-MG wall is all good but then we also saved up to redo our driveway and we lowered the ground level and put in proper drainage below the DPM level. Drive slopes towards the house so this was the main factor.
I'd definitely say these worked as a short to medium term cheap fix.
Roger is a big boss in the game love all the skill builder vids 👌🏽🔥🔥🔥
Nice one Roger you're life saver👍 God speed!..
Wow that was brilliant even I think I could do that! Came across your Channel by accident but I'm glad I did.
Most modern damp proofing chemicals work in theory and this is a very good demonstration of how some can be applied by any non qualified person to walls with no plaster finishes or floor and wall joint problems. I do feel that for balance Roger should clarify how he determined the wall was actually suffering only from rising damp as this is the main reason why so many applications and interventions go wrong because of misdiagnosis. I think Rogers assessment is probably right but he has years of experience. The take home is this: once you have accurately diagnosed rising damp it is relatively easy to resolve but the cost and assessment to know it can only be rising damp is a bigger issue. I agree that Dry zone is a great product in the right hands and is a good remedy if only rising damp on bare walls is confirmed by proper assessment.
DIY kits are so easy to use I live in a stone cottage going from room to room house drying out!!
How long have you waited until decorating?
Did you remove all the cement and use lime mortar?
Very clear, concise Video. Thanks for taking time to share. Put our minds at rest
Do a bit more research x
Great video thanks for sharing Roger, over and out!
I love how everyone in the comments loves Roger and are warning him.
my livingroom suffered from rising damp and i used these rods and it cured the problem they do work well
Thank Gareth..
I am sure there are others out there who have had first hand knowledge. The denial of rising damp is illogical. If people believe that then there is no reason to install a DPC
What are the rods called.
There are lots of factors that can make a wall damp if that’s a Concreet floor with a Dpm laped up a wall with out a dpc the damp will rise up through the wall (rising damp) if it’s a lime floor it wouldn’t it’s not as simple as saying rising damp exists or doesn’t
@@SkillBuilder ever seen a dpc in a church? You know, the big buildings still standing after 1000years.
Didn’t think so Einstein
ever seen a dpc in a church? You know, the big buildings still standing after 1000years.
Didn’t think so Einstein
I though this was a wind up. But I am happy to learn these rods have there place. Can see this being one .
Thanks Roger you have been a great help
Thanks Roger. I'm looking at a house that is constructed out of modern bricks, which are not completely solid (i.e have hollow cavities. I guess these bricks are cheaper to make, of course). Would you know if this technique would work well on walls contructed with these types of bricks as well as the traditional solid bricks we all know? Cheers.
I used a similar product on a house a few years ago and it worked a treat
It just moves the problem somewhere else
Have you actually used Dryrods yourself and been able to judge their effectiveness over time? I often ask critics of Dryrods this question but they never answer.@@gowdsake7103
Brilliant mate, exactly what I needed to know.
Another Amazing educational n helpful video to help us all Excellent job mate thanks
Love the stealth Panasonic sds 😁
Roger, thanks soooooo much for your awesome video! You rock!!!
I need this ASAP. I’m ordering Today.
Great tip Rodger 👍🏼
This is a fantastic product and love using it works great. Instructions were clear and helpful thanks guys.
Glad to help!
How does this work on cavity walls for inserting rods for spacing purposes. I don't suppose there is something simular like this that can fill up gabs in a brick wall that can be done from inside?
Thanks for that Roger,I agree with you on that.
We use to have so called sand bricks or blocks I think we called them ,along cavities every so often layed with sand.We could then get into cavity after removal and clean out most of the rubbish.
A Swedish engineer friend taught me many years ago - a house stays healthy itself and for people in it when one understands that the design of a building is a balance of heat retention (insulation) and airflow to remove moisture. I say that there's a third element - the wall/floor/ceiling material - as some retain damp, some buffer it and some 'breathe' - allowing it to flow out.
There's never been any damp in a house I have designed and built with that in mind, even with washing hanging, cooking going on etc, no active vents, not even in the bathroom. And no windows need to be open, summer or winter.
Sure, you're right, damp can be mitigated, but good designs make good homes.
Thanks for another v good video, helping improve housing stock and lifestyle alike.
thanks so much....i have rising damp and cant afford to pay the guys to fix it ....im going to try this...
you my friend are a blessing to mankind
It's been 2 years now, did the rods work and stop your damp problem?
would love to see a follow up on this . as a stonemason working with old buildings day in, day out , i highly suspect you've not cured this damp problem
There will be more on damp soon. This chemical is well proven to stop the passage of damp through the mortar course. In stone you have to find a mortar bed and because of the non uniform line it is a question of putting in a couple of lines.
This is just stupid, figure 99% of the comments are bought.
saved me a fortune Thanks!!
Tysm for uploading this.
Loved the video
All I need now is a house with raising damp😊😁
Buy mine
Brilliant thank you I am really interested in this because I have to do this in my house in Galway,thanks again
czcams.com/users/skillbuilderchannelvideos
Look up Peter ward about damp.
@@laldan29 Are you joking
@@SkillBuilder no there's so many cases that prove this is a short term solution. Look at regs in holland where they build houses ontop of rivers and don't use damp proofing. Stick a couple air bricks in and its sorted
@@laldan29 it's the Netherlands. And this method is mostly used here! I must say, they use the old method quite often with the liquid version
Roger you the best !!!
I have been very concearned for years about the rising damp issues in my old brick house. I will try method. Thank you Roger!
John
Bethel, Missouri USA
A few years back I worked in a builders merchant. The number of 'builders' that came in and asked the lads behind the counter how to do things was amazing. The lads used to say ' no idea mate, you are the builder, I'll just sell you what you asked for' . Since then I do everything myself, even built my own extension. Just need and electrician and gas man. Gas man wired boiler live and electrician wired lights into immersion circuit. The vast majority of tradesmen in the UK are cowboys.
Make you right, I used certified Electrician and I knew more on testing as I am old deb and use to wire homes in good old days and get it certified by LEB, Now days the so call Engineyer would put his meter showing different colour lights which would tell what the fault was but would not know the workings of the wiring system but he would not know how to test with just a AVO meter as you need to know all types of Earthing points and resistance between earth and neutral and also test continuity test, I think this guy just buy their certificates.
I can see that. From my days working in car spares. Unbelievable really.
But...you close down colleges that taught practical skills...and replace them with "Arts-Based" "Social Media" "Digital Tech" "Computer sciences" etc etc
You cannot train people who have no natural skills, nor the required intelligence, (Not to be confused with common sense.) to be in these roles.
Why is it everyone thinks THEY deserve a job that does not involve:
1) Getting your hands dirty. 2) Some physical effort. ?
Sad, but true: we can't all be Brain Surgeons or Rocket Scientists.
Aim high by all means...but be realistic.
There will always be work for practical people.
Why?
Because computers & high tech cannot do the essential stuff that all humans need on a daily basis. Worldwide.
Re-open the practical colleges that taught trades to people with good common sense....and who want to do an honest day's work for a decent rate of pay.
I can imagine it looks great 😆.
You missed the part where the vast majority of diy’ers think they’re a builder
Hi. Thanks for the video.
A few questions. Does this work for brick wall only, i.e. can the same technique be applied to a breeze block or a cinder block? If yes, do you still need to drill at 120mm intervals - into the block itself and not the mortar joint as it may be?
Can you fit these from the outside of the house?
Also, if there's an old failing waterproofing membrane, should I drill above or below it?
Cheers.
I was just about to ask the same question re cinder block.
Watched many of your videos and thank you for all the advice provided.
Glad to help
Well done girl!!
When this popped up in my notifications, I had a number of thoughts
1. No Skill Builder noooooo
2. Peter Ward
3. Plastic paint
4. Ground levels
5. Condensation
Exactly, what is on the other side of that wall?
💯
Get the adze out and start hacking!!
Exactly my thoughts !
Peter Ward is exactly what sprung to my mind too! 🤣
In my experience, if you have damp on a wall, the problem is almost never 'rising damp'. It's much better to spend some time finding the real cause of the problem and solve that rather than being lazy and going straight to barrier treatments.
In the most cases it is a rising damp, which occurs by capillary action through bricks n mortar. Moreover isn't more economical n easier to stop it with this damp barrier method rather than finding the cause of the problem which likely will cost more to repair?
@@1ico007 No, it's always best to get to the cause of it and fix that
Dave is correct. Water is very heavy and will never go up. It's more likely rain or damp penetrating the walls from out side.
@@robertsanders4074 take concern about ground water level raising in rainy season. foundation material easily absorbs the water which raises through the bricks wall. we should arrest the dampens in the foundation level as mr dave what he said.
@@1ico007 you have zero practical experience…this is evident
Gonah try this thank you 👍
Excellent review 👏🏼 👌🏼 👍🏼
Wow lots of negative comments! In my opinion it does not look like it's going to take that long to try this method and if it works like it seems to have for many people wheres the harm ? If your still left with damp try something else
Firstly I would go around outside to see the possible reasons for the damp, & what could be done to alleviate the ingression, as I have done on a number of properties.
@Akshay Mhatre Sure. Check ground drainage all round, are there areas with standing water? Any blocked drains or soakaways? Has the damp proof course been bridged i.e. cemented or built over? Then I would dig a French drain all round, as necessary, dig a trench at least 15" deep Fill the lower half with shingle, the upper layer with gravel. Also, with a large fence post borer, bore a deep hole & see if you find the water table (water level in the ground). I have successfully bored a 3' deep hole, filled it with a perforated 4" plastic pipe; water drains into that & can evaporate in summer. If the water table is too high, you may have to construct an underground drain from that to take the water away from the house. If you are on a flood plain, well, move or buy a boat!
@@theondebray great advice, you obviously understand how damp gets into brickwork. I put a french drain around a small stone cottage in wales and the damp went away. Peter Ward is the man to watch on CZcams.
Completely the correct advice.
just awesome short video for the DIY'er...what great time saving invention
Hi Roger, great video as usual from you. Fabulous looking Panasonic drill by the way. Any chance of a review on it? Thanks
Thumbs up for the Panasonic
Hi, this video is really helpful and I’m keen to try this method for stopping rising damp. Does it only work on lime mortar, or is it suitable for concrete mortar too? Thank you
Lizzy did you not go to the link at the top under show more? In under 30 secs i read your answer.
THANK U !
You amazing thank you.
Love the channel 👍.. forget the negative comments. Peter ward ,? Seriously? Watch his " confused carpenter" video, maybe the worse advice I've ever heard. People commenting are not builders, remodelers or restoration companies.... There is always an expensive proper way to fix situations. Roger always gives solid advice based on his dozens of years of hard work. Keep up the good work...
Thanks Joe.
What was bad about the advice in "confused carpenter"? He suggested filling the gaps with ocum or lime mortar.
I live in a ground floor flat. Can the Dryrod be inserted via the exterior wall, from the outside wall?
god damn life saver!!!!! you have no idea!! much love x
Just brilliant
Oh dear.... don’t let Peter ward see this....
lol that's what I thought
@@GavinLawrence747 ..me too, Peter Ward is the most knowledgeable guy on the net concerning 'rising damp'. Check out his videos on CZcams...fascinating.
@@doktoruzo Yes his website and youtube videos are fantastic and funny. "Mr Damp wally"
@@GavinLawrence747 . Yes, fully concur. I don't even have a problem with damp or am I involved in the building industry but I just happened to come across one of Peter's videos one day and was intrigued. I watched everyone of his videos in one big binge viewing...amazing. I do like Roger though. He gives good straight, honest advice. Can't really understand why he felt the need to get into this hokus pokus.
@@doktoruzo That's the same for me. What I took away from Pete's vids is that the building (esp olders buildings) must BREATHE!
Skill builder is usually spot on, not in this case but usually
Thanks
I have damp coming through the plasterboard from 2 old chimneys that wasn't blocked up properly, I wish I could diy it but the buyer for the house wants a certificate so I'm stuck with using a costly tradesmen...great video
But... number one priority MUST be to find the source of the damp and remove it. Below a certain moisture content there is no mould that can survive. The great majority of cases of decay and deterioration in old buildings are down to either neglect or bad alteration which has at some point facilitated water ingress. There is a massive industry around ‘rising damp’ and ‘wet rot’ but nothing works as well as identifying and removing the problem, reducing the moisture content and keeping it so. It’s as true for timber buildings as it is for brick built. Do check out literature by Brian Ridout or basically any CZcams video by Pete Ward.
Sorry, this is not an attack on you. I really like your videos, especially the ones with that little chippy in... 😀
Nigel
No problem at all and in the longer video we discuss all this and more. The fact is that this building has no damp proof course so that is an immediate and obvious reason for putting one in.
The other thing that people overlook is that decay is the natural and default status of anything and everything.
If you've not got a damp course, it will be the ground, that's the number one cause of damp bricks below 30cm.
Here is an interesting blog to balance out the argument.
Rising damp is a myth, some say. Not many really think so; that would be stupid, but those who believe this nonsense seem to have the ear of the press and the ear of RIBA and RICS too.
So instead of being drowned out by howls of derision from the those who really know about these things, they gain publicity and even a bit of notoriety too.
Yet every day - yes every day, rising damp causes damage to our housing stock. It causes salting of brickwork, wet rot in floor joists bearing into affected walls, perishing plaster surfaces and even increases heat loss at the base of walls.
Now then, you may disagree with me. Perhaps I’m just spouting an opinion too, like the ‘myth pushers’, but no, I state facts, facts proven time and again by me and importantly, by people who have really studied the phenomena scientifically.
The internet is full of papers which detail various trials and careful studies done, in an effort to quantify the nature of the problem and analyse the effectiveness of treatments. They are being ignored.
Who cares? Well we all should be worried, because when people read something in the papers they tend to believe it. If building preservation ‘experts’ generally agree on something and one or two of them suddenly start babbling an unsupported view, with no proper evidence, the papers like to publish it; conspiracy and corporate culpability sells so well.
Unfortunately the readers get the information in an unbalanced way. They then become prey for all sorts of crackpot ways of dealing with their ‘mythical’ rising damp problems.
As a result, I see people turning away from proven chemical damp-proof courses, just at the point when the technology of these systems has begun to deliver much better results. You see, chemical DPC’s have a bad press, because too many were installed improperly, by badly trained and sometimes quite iffy installers. Often no plastering was done, so the nitrate and chloride contaminated plaster just sat there; soaking up more humidity and the walls never dried out. Many DPC’s were installed for the wrong reasons; they can’t eliminate condensation or penetrating damp, or rising damp; if the cavity is blocked. This is not the fault of the material or proof that rising damp does not exist - it is the fault of the installer or the surveyor involved - or both.
Now that we have better training and the advent of DryZone DPC injection cream, standards and success rates are far higher. This is good - but because of the bad and completely unjustified attacks on the whole premise that damp rises - customers are being bamboozled into trying unproven, unreliable and generally more expensive ‘cures’.
So this is where the MMR scandal link is. The scandal was caused by poor and unproven opinion being disseminated as science fact. Before long, others jumped on the bandwagon and thousands of parents (many of the them middle class Sunday paper readers), decided that young Rupert and Felicity shouldn’t have the nasty jab. This directly caused the severe illness of many other children and eventually those who had promoted this were shown for what they were - the main doctor was struck off the medical register.
In my opinion RIBA and RICS members who seem to support this current ‘myth’ nonsense should have a read of some proper evidence. As professionals we have a responsibility to give good advice to clients; advice based on facts; advice based on knowledge.
Opinion is no substitute for fact; experience is no substitute for knowledge.
Dry Rot.
As most of west Lancs is either wet sand or clay I say rising damp is a thing.
Is this evidence? czcams.com/video/9E63vIgV9Oo/video.html
Nah , I’m calling bullshit .... the only people who can’t see it and won’t have it are companies who push rising damp “cures”
It’s a racket , the new thing is to remove plaster to masonry , line with a plastic membrane and plaster /dab over
Ffs it’s a joke
There has been numerous scientific tests to show that rising damp is impossible however, using a chemical in the brickwork will usually correct the damp issues. My house was built in 1833, it has no damp course and the building and basement is dry. It is the poor construction method that causes dampness.
I know nothing about building, but the argument that rising damp is a myth does seem to be supported by good solid evidence. It would be nice to see the debate resolved one way or the other.
Great video thx
A fantastic video! Many, many thanks!
Thank you too! I hope it helps
Would this system work on at the solid walls of a victorian house circa 1880? Thank you
czcams.com/video/Ui6IEhI86ew/video.html&ab_channel=PeterWard
I think Peter Ward's channel will get a bump in traffic over the next few days 🤣
That is for sure.
@@SkillBuilder what's your thoughts on peters advise?
@@MaintenanceENG No reply from @Skill Builder... Kind of says it all
@@gleff3345 One has to be right and one wrong!
Peter Ward is misguided.
Many thanks for the great tip! I have a solid stone wall into a hillside and the wall gets extremely wet when it's been raining so I shall certainly try the Dryrod.
Is the 'damp' coming up the wall or through it? Ie how high does the outside ground have contact with your wall? I wouldn't start drilling into stone if I was you.
Dig a trench about 15inches deep around the outside and put in a field drain, it will divert the water from the building.
Interesting. A terraced cottage I'm looking at is lower than next door so the only cure for damp on the party wall is tanking.. I think..
Thank you Soooo Much. There is no way I could afford to get my rising damp sorted by "professionals" I am certainly going to have a go at it myself. Your video is a dream..thank you.
Make sure rising damp is the problem. Send us pictures at www.skill-builder.uk/send
Roger, I’d be interested if you could do a video or podcast with your thoughts in relation to Peter Ward’s opinions. He’s not an idiot and to be honest I’d rather side with him than a damp proofing contractor, but I think we’d all like to hear your opinions in response as he makes a lot of good points.
Hi Luke
I actually made a programme for BBC Watchdog around 18 years ago all about the misdiagnosis of damp and the mis selling of remedial treatments. I concur with a lot of what is said about looking for other courses but there are cases where a remedial damp proof course is exactly what is required. This house with no dpc is a case in point. Where is has been extended it has a dampproof course and the walls are not damp.
I think that the problem we are looking at is really one of polarisation. People think that you have to side with one particular camp which is ridiculous. My view is a lot more balanced than that of Peter Ward or Geoff Howell. I understand the need to make controversial statements and to take a stance to get yourself recognised but the truth is often a lot more nuanced.
In my teens I worked for a master bricklayer who told me that the worst thing that ever happened to the building industry was cement and we used a lot of lime mortar in the restoration of London's historic buildings so I know the arguments.
I will tackle this subject in the very near future but, for now, I will say that the introduction of the damp proof course was a change for good and anyone who tries to suggest that it was a retrograde step and that a building without one is somehow better off is talking nonsense. Unfortunately there are many such people running around. You even get people who say "Look at Venice" they don't have damp proof courses. Anyone who has been to Venice and spent time looking at their buildings will see and smell damp. It is also no accident that some of the leading experts in remedial damp proofing are Dutch.
@@SkillBuilder most old building throughout the country are now suffering damp issues. Houses built in genuine lime mortar need to have a complete lime cycle. If they don't moisture builds up very rapidly. Buildings in Venice have been messed about with as much as ours. The skills your old teacher taught you are quickly vanishing. As is the understanding. I can assure you once you take away modern materials from a building the damp goes away. At a rate of an inch per month. I truly hope this practice stops very quickly and old buildings are returned to how they once were. Not for my bank ballance, but for home owners bank ballances.
@@stevenmurray6359 There is a degree of truth in what you say but make no mistake there was damp in old houses. Anyone who reads Pepy's and others of that era will know that houses were cold, damp, inhospitable places and the only respite to a lifetime of living in such conditions was strong drink , to which a great proportion of the population succumbed.
Yeah they didn't have glass in the windows and straw on the floor. Victorian houses had green shield wallpaper that was made arsenic we know all that. Draughty well maintained old houses last. We can now introduce draught through controllable electrical units. We can allow moisture control of building fabric through hot lime mixes and clay paint. We can control heat. We can lower external levels keep on top of maintenance the linseed oil paint is amazing. If you and others keep using cement and chemicals home owners will have to pay me lots of money to reverse it. You guys are excellent modern builders. I watch you and Rob all the time but unfortunately on this one you are very wrong. Not just you, there's that god awful man from core conservation going round selling all sorts of nonsense. Don't get the name that guy has.
@@SkillBuilder "The only respite was strong drink..." Perhaps you should do a video on that, Roger.
Hi Roger. Why did you start so high internally. Surely the 150mm dictates above external solid ground level not internal. If the external is the same this needs to be lowered to 150mm below internal and the dpc inserted just above internal solid floor level. This is also the case indicated on safeguards site. Also any bridging external render would need to be altered.
Matty
This is a wall we used as a demonstration and it was intended to show the rods and how they work. The ground on the other side was high and there is nothing we can do about it.
Every single wall needs to be assessed on its merits. In this case the access is from one side and it is solid so placing a rod so low would mean it was less than 150mm above ground level. If it had been a cavity wall I would have tried to drill from both sides at different levels.
I think sometimes you have to accept that the situation is less than ideal and in this case drilling and filling two courses may be the best solution.
The guidelines from Safeguard cover a lot of variation. Back in the days of silicone fluid we used to drill and pump under pressure and a lot of the fluid finished up in the cavity. It was far less effective than these rods.
Ok buddy sorry. Didnt want someone just copying and not getting the outcome they wanted. Good content as usual mate.👍
Thanks Jimmy , u r great :)
Hey Roger. Great videos I watch every one you do. Do you have any suggestions or solutions for a concrete garage getting extremely damp. It is brand new, no external to internal leaks at all. All the mdf is going mouldy and tools sodding wet. It isn't insulated, has lots of ventilation and has anti condensation roof sheets on the inside. It doesn't drip down but just everything is soaking wet. Would sealing more and running a dehumidifier help? Thanks.
Looks like a ground floor room, probably the outdoor ground level too high. I dug out about old three patios and footpaths out from around my house and got rid of 'rising damp'.
He said it's a party wall so there's not going to be any other source of damp here I don't think
James yes, if the ground outside is higher than inside that’s the obvious thing to do. When you’ve got a party wall though, your hardly gonna dig up your neighbours lounge so an injection is a good solution if done correctly.
If its a party wall, something else is going on, not rising damp!
@@aflaz171 Like what? Other than rising damp I can't really see what else it could be. Not an external wall rules out pretty much everything else.
@@peepiepo I don't think he said that wall was a party wall, he just mentioned party walls in general.
But surely the brick below still remains damp? Damp rises to the course, and stops...where does the water go? Surely it will continue to linger in the lower bricks (which are the unsightly ones)?
I've wondered this for thirty years. Anyone know answer?
Water doesn't rise upwards through brick or stone. Rising damp is extremely rare. So rare, that nice is us are every likely to even witness it.
Stephen Boniface, former chairman of the construction arm of the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS ), has told the institute’s 40,000 members that ‘true rising damp’ is a myth and chemically injected damp-proof courses (DPC) are ‘a complete waste of money’
Cheers Roger
The floor under that lifted tile looks damp. Not sure you've fixed this to be honest. Did you explore the possible causes for the damp?
Yes we did a longer video on the subject. It has no DPC. It is a good place to start and it can do no harm.
Even after watching Peter Wards videos i had to use this stuff in my house because there is a water source that Thames water claim is a "water table" under my house that regularly fills my basement. And guess what, it's been tested as chlorinated water!!! .. Thames still deny a leak. In the meantime my 130 year old house is rotting away. No amount of ventilation or repairing mortar with lime mortar will ever stop the water ingress or the damage it's causing. So I called damp wally and he said 10k to do what I did myself, just as Roger shows in this video, at a cost of about £300 to cover the perimeter of the house and for the first time in 3 years I have dry walls!!! At least above the floor level...
P.s. apologies I used Dryzone (which is a name Roger let slip in this video) which is a liquid that is actually incredibly difficult to inject because of the very cheaply made cartridges which leak massively when used but the product does actually work!!!
asimo sss Yup, rising damp is a thing and right products do work,
Any updates on the rods?
thanks for this
Awesome Rog....
That looks so easy. Quick question, is this suitable for very old buildings (circa 1700) which are soft red brick with lime mortar and no damp proof course? I heard that Chemical DPC can cause damage to the brick and are not advisable. ????
No. Search CZcams for Peter Ward. Also look at English Heritage website.
I believe there is a book written by a bricklayer who debunked rising damp , he built a few walls in troughs of water and left them and kept checking measuring the moisture content ect - the damp didn’t rise , also why don’t we see other countries dealing with damp in this manner?
Jeff Howell
Jeff Howell is an interesting guy and I have known him for 25 years but he loves to be controversial and to sell books.
He puts a damp proof course in his brick walls when he builds them.
@@SkillBuilder Controversial or not, it's hard to argue with his piers in the cellar. There were others involved at the time as well (slaves, um, I mean students) to help build the piers for example and who presumably were also pressed into service to take the measurements and write up the results as a part of their studies. One would have to be peculiarly self-deluded to get away with claiming results contrary to the reality of what actually happened in the face of all of those extra pairs of eyeballs.
I'm not just trying to be awkward. It annoys the hell out of me that, despite many dozens of hours of study and personal (bad) experience at the hands of the so called "damp wallies" I am still very much struggling to decode just who is telling the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth in the whole dampness thing.
Nice one Roger .
Cheers Roger 👍
Hi Roger I love your channel but this advice isn’t correct. Green algae stains are not from rising damp, and what happens to the wall below the damp proof course.... it will stay wet! So what is the point putting in a dpc? A more suitable solution would be to remove the modern paint to allow evaporation so the wall gets to dry down. All damp diagnosis and repairs should follow BRE DIGEST 245, and BS 6576 2005.... and this doesn’t.
Ross Charters your argument is a contradiction. You say the green algae is not from rising damp, but you also tell him to remove the paint to allow evaporation so the wall drys down. You’ve been watching to many Peter Ward video’s....
Slashley gibbins yes because the wall is wet/green above his head..... not rising damp, but penetrating damp.
Slashley gibbins n
Black mould on walls-condensation
Green and black mould-penetrating damp,leaks
White salts on wall- new materials drying out process
Tide mark only 3ft high, some efflorescence visible-rising damp.
Key tip, black mould and rising damp NEVER together
Legally speaking you do need approval from your neighbour before drilling into a party wall as the wall is owned by both parties. There have been a few cases of legal disputes where one side has drilled, it has forced damp up the wall of the neighbouring property and they have ended up with a big problem. It is very important to understand the legal situation before drilling into a party wall. you can see the potential for porblems when the wall is being drilled a long way but not the whole way, there will still be a section not treated. Then what if neighbour does same, you end up with dozens of holes in the brickwork! It is obviously better to get it treated from both sides on a party wall.
I am sure that two neighbours with rising damp in a party wall will both want a solution. I love the idea of forcing damp up the wall by treating half of it. I wonder what the 'rising damp is a myth brigade' have to say about that.
Such a load of bollocks. 2 separate walls between neighbours so no permission needed if your living next door to Karen and Kevin. It would be decent and explain to the neighbour whats for happening next door.
@@SkillBuilder and if your magi-cream tampons worked then water getting in at the top of the wall will show higher than it did before because you’ve convinced yourself you created a dpc. As if…😴
@@luckyman8319 no, you do need permission. It’s called a party wall agreement. It’s a legal document that you (your surveyor) are required to serve acknowledging that you accept full responsibility for any damages caused to their property by any work carried out and that you will pay for any remedial work. The party wall is inspected by a surveyor before and after work has commenced and signs it off.
really its looks too easy to be true, but i'll give it a try and observe it after application...thanks amazing!
Love your show, your very thorough, I was a trowel, not anymore, my body's knackered, thanks for all your tips, happy xmas
Thank you Courtney, have a good break.
@@SkillBuilder oh one more thing, I think you would a good detective, or forensic scientist if that's what there called, anyway keep up the good work man.
Absolutely love this channel and Roger, but personally I wouldn't be using these types of products to deal with damp.
Do we know what the cause of the damp exactly is in this case?
The damp is there because there is no damp course. In period houses with solid floor, evaporation relied on airflow. This wall looks painted but maybe limewash (which is ok). The paint will aid the rising of damp. Modern living tends to facilitate damp as people want to keep vents shut to keep the warm in. There’s two ways to prevent this damp: 1. Rip up the concrete floor about 2 feet below ground level on the inside and outside, install a wooden floor in its place with lots of ventilation underfloor to outside; this will allow the rising damp in the wall to evaporate before it gets to inside floor level or 2. Install a injection damp course like roger is doing here. So 10-15 grand or a 500 quid injection course..
@@gdfggggg Have you been to this site personally?
McCready 747 No, but worked on and seen so many houses with damp issues I’ve lost count.
@@gdfggggg Peter ward would like a word with you
@BinarySecond fine, let's do it.
Edit: and I’ve commented on loads of his videos but he never replies. Guess he thinks I’m a damp wally? Or is it because I’ve picked plenty of holes in his arguments?