Making Festool Sys Ports.
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- čas přidán 14. 10. 2024
- I have received a lot of questions through messages and emails over the past few months about my sys ports. My collection of systainers has gone out of control and I needed to make a couple more of my Sys Ports and thought it would be a great chance to share the building process. I worked on the Sys Ports over the past couple weekends, getting a couple hours in every once in a while. This is how I went about making them. You're methods may vary as well as your needs. But I hope this helps someone out and I hope you enjoy the video. Thanks for watching! Take care, Eric
Best video on building drawer storage for Systainers and similar boxes. Finally, someone tells us dimensions and rationale behind the build. That is so helpful. Thank you so much!
I just got done making 3 of these Festool Sys Ports! They turned out awesome! I really appreciate you taking the time to do the video on making them. I used 3/4" Birch Plywood with Birch Edge Banding, 14" Pro100 Drawer Slides and the 6.3mm x 13mm Euro Screws. I also bought the LR32 System to drill the holes for the Pro 100 Slides. BAM!!! Absolutely beautiful cabinets! Thanks!
Eric Stong That's great man!!! Thanks for the feedback!
Great video man. Extremely informative and so helpful to see you use millimetres - love it. Keep up the great work. Tools are an investment. buy quality means you buy it once . I still have all my tools from my apprenticeship so that is 30 years and they are still going strong. The only things that have really changed over the years is the introduction of battery technology which was a game changer and made portable power tools a reality freeing you up from the extension lead.
Love this. I’m an early intermediate woodworker and this would be a great way to get Sys cabinets or ports drawers customized to my tiny basement shop and learn in the process (mostly from messing up), and without paying the absurd amount for the store bought Festool ones.
Excellent and well thought out system. Very good work
Amazing man - will definitely do this in my shop! Thanks for working in metric!!! :)
Nice work in a terrific shop.
Thanks a lot Eric for making so many great videos!
my wife likes your choice in music.
I made my zero clearance inserts for the Kapex because of you and they work great!
Sad to see that you don't have any new videos. But I love being able to go back and watch your channel. When I first watched your channel I was only dreaming of owning Festool. I know you have since had a falling out with Festool. But good or bad... you definitely helped fuel my fire to be a Festool Owner. I remember watching this and wondering... HOW COULD YOU HAVE THAT MANY SYSTAINERS???. LOL. A couple of years ago I got a Domino. FELL IN LOVE. Then I got the track saw. And then a sander. And another sander. LOL I have a systainer for my smaller sandpaper. And I recently got a Festool Cleaning set for my Dust Extractor. So... while still small, I'm starting to have quite the collection. WHen I looked up building a sys port and saw your channel pop up... I immediately remembered your build and I knew I wanted to make those. I can't wait to get started. I don't have the LR32. But I'm sure everything else I do pretty much the same. Thanks for sharing this. And I hope you are doing well. I also can't wait to go back and watch your cabinet build videos as I start to build a small kitchen for our home.
Mr Bigerrock strikes back!
Nice to see you again!
Your collection would deserve some recognition by Festool!
I guess half of the income of Festool USA comes from You!!!
Thank you for sharing again your skill with us and teach precious advices.
I was just looking for dimensioning my festool sysport. I am making it horizontal instead of vertical to use it as sysport dock&work station.
You helped me a lot.
Warmly from your italian fan
Christian
christian buzio Glad the video helped you out. A work station with systainer storage is a great idea! Have fun and good luck with the building process! Take care, Eric
Excellent video. Liked your workshop - very modern with your own individual touches.
Jeff Harmed Thank you !
I am so stoked to watch your videos ... I will be joining the festool family soon I hope !
Cool build really eric i love your shop your tools and the way you youse them
Rami Alahmar Thank you !
Thank you so much for all these efforts and your time, it is very inspiring man. I'm going to start mine and copy exactly what you've done.
Much appriciated buddy.
Great video as always! And glad to see new projects. I know around the holidays it will be tough to find time in the shop. Hope to see new videos soon! Happy holidays
Nathan Brothers You are correct, the holidays take up shop time. Plus, the weather can take away some time as well. Especially when I have to wait for the heater to warm up the shop. Thanks and Happy holidays to you. Take care, Eric
Thank you Eric! I did find on Amazon from company in Middlefield, Ohio. Ordered and received in two days, excellent quality and unbelievable price. Also discovered I had to order Euro screws for cabinet side and truss head for drawer side..details..details..thanks again! (I bookmarked the ebay seller for purchase of 22" slides for project 2)..
hope you have a beautyful thanksgiving holiday! warmly your italian fan
Chris
Hi!
Very nice work Eric. I must say, You and Laney Sh. have inspired me to begin woodworking.
I am an Norwegian carpenter on daytime but I like to begin woodworking as a hobby.
And this video inspired me to start making sys port cabinets to my systainers as my first project.
But with a different touch than you. I am using 22x65 mm boards and 3 mm. hard board plates. with Kreg pocket hole jig.
Started a few hours ago. But i`m not so fast as you I can tell.
Already waiting to see the result.
But thanks for good advice and ideas.....
Colbjørn M.Nilsen Nilsen SWEET! Have fun building the project! Being organized leads to being productive. Take care! Eric
Hey Eric, great approach...Did you use Blum Drawer sets? Norrie
Very impressive to say the least...and I can't believe how fast you are! Lol. Loved the video!
Grimm Day Thanks buddy ! FYI, Lowe's sells Valspar spray paint that is very close to the Festool green. It's called Tropical Follage #85082, it's a satin paint. OR you can take a systainer up to a Sherwin Williams store. I took a mini systainer to S.W and they matched the Festool grey for me pretty nicely.
Take care,
Eric
I'm not the least bit surprised you know this! lol thanks again…I'll have to write that down now.
Eric, Thanks for doing this. As always, I enjoyed it greatly. I always find something thought provoking in these.
-Charlie Mac
Another great video. Thanks for posting. Was there a reason to switch manufacturers of your drawer slides from TopSlides to the Pro100 Slide? Do you have a strong opinion regarding quality of others such as KV, Blum, Shop Fox, etc? Also, do you find it a significant advantage to pre-drilling the holes for the slides instead of simply screwing them in place? The only time I've pre-drilled holes is when I used adjustable shelves. Ironically, in all my casework projects with adjustable shelves, I placed the shelves where I initially thought they should be, and I don't recall ever subsequently adjusting the location of a single shelf.
***** For this project the only reason I switched to the Pro100 was because I had the Pro100 on order. I used the TopSlides as a reference for the hole locations for the Euro screws I used. But when I received the Pro100's, the rear hole location that accepts the Euro screw was different. Which is why I had two row of holes in the back. I explain the reason why I used the Pro100 at the 11 : 46 mark.
I have no strong opinion regarding the quality of slides offered by different manufactures. I found a 10 pack of 14" full extension slides on eBay. Bought them and was happy with the Pro100's. I've ordered different drawer slides from the eBay seller with no regrets.
For this project, drilling all the holes makes it easy to pre install the drawer slides before assembling the box. Using the LR32 system allows me to accurately local the slides before I assemble the boxes. By using the LR32 system and 5mm bit, I utilize the larger pre drilled hole in the slides for a Euro screw. So it takes the guess work out of locating the slides. If for some reason down the road I want to move some systainers around, I'll have the flexibility to do so. The different systainers are fixed heights. So I know how many systainers, no matter what size, will fit within a sys port. Since I used the LR32 system to drill out the holes, it doesn't take much time drilling all the holes within the side panels. I think it's worth the time just drilling them all out. If you plan the layout of your sys ports, you could just simply screw the slides into place and eliminate all the unused holes, if that's the look your after. I've drilled out MANY holes for adjustable shelving......and set the shelf in place and never moved it, just as you have. LOL ! But at lease I gave myself the adjustability incase I needed to move the shelf. To each his own, just like a lot of things. Take care ! Eric
Really like your videos. Thanks. Keep it up. Kudos on using millimetres!
+tompfarrell Awesome! Thanks for watching ! Take care, Eric
A very informative video, being from across the pond it was strange to see a video from the other side of the pond being in m.m.
I use both sets of measurements but not on the same project of course.
As a matter of interest, what do you put the value of ALL your Festool tools and accessories?
I guess you have a lot of $s worth.
Festool is so expensive over here in the U.K. that it would take me years to get the BASIC tools although I do have a good selection of DeWalt, tools.
I can imagine the difference of the two being like chalk and cheese when being used.
I look foreward to your reply.
I'm going steady in the shop now!! I put the videos in the shop on the back burner these last 12 months. Hopefully I'll finish my base cabinet for the shop this week, then it's off to my miter saw station. My shops changed a lot since my last video, once I finish my current project I'll do a shop tour update.
Looking forward to your shop update.
If it`s just as good result as your assembly table, then wow......
Good work man!
Great video! I'd like to see a shop tour update and all the tools you have, but I don't think there's enough time on the CZcamss to handle it!! hahaha I definitely enjoy all your videos! Thanks again
Alex Martinez Thanks! Shop tour video will happen when I get my new shop built. I have to wait until spring for the concrete to be poured. The weather has been a pain in the butt around here. But someday, I'll do a shop tour video......someday. Take care, Eric
Hey Eric , I enjoy watching your videos. I changed the the size up a bit to make the wholly rail fit tight on top and bottom(16 up and out ) I know that i should of been able to just reference off the top of each side piece but couldn't work it out. would love to see a video on setting up the LR32 on pieces that aren't division's of 32 mm
Robert Becker Hi Robert, when I'm using the LR32 with pieces that are not in increments of 32mm, I make sure I label the tops. With a piece of blue painters tape or a pencil mark. Then I make sure I always have the end stop reference off the tops. You just need to be mindful of how your setting everything up.
Now, just to confuse you a little bit. LOL ! You don't have to reference off the tops. If you want, you can always reference off the bottom of the pieces. The key off setting up the LR32 rail when not using a piece in 32mm increments is to pick one side, top or bottom and always, always, always use that edge to reference off of.
I did a series of videos on the LR32 system. Here is a link to a video I did explaining the end stops. If you jump to the 4 : 40 minute mark, I talk about the end stops with pieces not in 32mm increments. I'll admit, the video is a little boring. I just do a lot of talking/explaining. But I think it may help you a little.
czcams.com/video/fDze8obMlao/video.html
Hope this helps you buddy. Take care! Eric
Great video. I just started making Sys-ports similar to yours. I haven't glued up all of the shelves yet. I started doing the math and according to your dimensions, you are allowing 23mm of extra space for the slides that require 12.7mm on each side. It got late and I got nervous so I took a break for the night. I assume they still work. I do have a different brand, but I think most require 1/2" or 12.7mm gap on each side of drawer.
Hey Rick,
For the drawer slides I leave 12mm on each side for them to work.
The tops and bottoms of the sys ports are 460mm
The plywood bottom of the drawers are 412mm wide.
The sides of the drawers are made of 12mm plywood.
So 460mm - 412mm = 48mm
48mm - 24mm ( 12mm plywood per side) = 24mm the space left for the drawer slides to work.
I think when you did your calculations maybe you forgot to account for the 12mm plywood sides on the drawers? Or maybe you were staying up past your bed time? LOL ! just messing with you man.
BUT if you're using a different brand or style of slide and the manufacture states a dimension for proper function for the slide, then obviously go off the manufactures recommendation.
Take care and good luck with the build man!
Eric
Mr. Bigerrock. I enjoy your creativity on your Sysports. I plan on making some myself. My questions to you are from whom did you purchase your Pro 100 14" full extension slides and did they come with the 5mm screws or did you use larger screrws. Again nice work
Doug Smith eBay Doug, I have no affiliation with this seller, but I've bought from them a number of times with fast shipping.
www.ebay.com/itm/261189468299?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&var=560189456444&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
No, they do not come with the 5mm screws, or any screw for mounting them to the cabinet.
If you google search 6.3X13mm Euro screws, you may find a store near you that stocks them. I have a local woodworking store near me that keeps them in stock.
Have fun with the building process buddy!!!
Eric
Hi Eric, one idea I think would be of additional benefit, make the sys ports the same height as your MFT table -900mm I think, that way you can use them for extra in-outfeed tables along side the MFT. Think I'm gonna do this following your video. Of course they may not fit some sustainers as well so that could be an issue. Awesome video, thanks for sharing Eric.
Acrobat
Damn is that every festool product available? Hard to imagine needing that many power tools
Eric, Excellent video and great details on the build. I have a question. Where did you start your 1st hole when drilling them? Did you start at the 1st or 2nd hole form the bottom?
***** Dan, 2nd hole from the bottom. Drilling the first hole gets covered up by the bottom piece if using 18mm (3/4") plywood.Take care,
Eric
Eric, I have watched several of your videos now and you do a great job, very informative for a newcomer to the Festool system. One thing I wondered about these was why pocket screws instead of dominos? Sorry if thats a stupid question!
George in the UK
George Scholey I used pocket screws so I don't have to use clamps and wait for the glue to dry. Pocket screws and glue provide a very strong joint. I did not feel the need to add dominos with the pockets screws. Just a personal preference. You could easily use dominos with glue and clamps. Or use the pocket screws with the domino tenon. I've used all the methods with great results. Take care!
Eric
Great videos Eric. Found your channel while looking up Festools. Thanks for sharing for the rest of us noobs :).
Great video. I have a stupid question......sorry. so when you drill your LR32 holes for the glides and you start from the bottom....how far up from the bottom do you start drilling? Is it automatically set up when you set up the LR32 drill guide rail? Thanks in advance
Cool vid once again!! Just curious though... I haven’t seen u use the festool conturo for edging.... considering your obvious tool preference... is there a reason??
Fantastic video, great to see you using mm as I have trouble trying to convert from one to the other. Nice workshop and good explanation of dimensions. What timber did you use for top and sides, in the background you old top and sides are grey, did you paint or is it a different material. Wish there were more people that did this stuff in the UK as it might bring down the cost of or tools a bit. all the best.
Robert Jones Hi Robert, thank you for the kind words.
The first set of sysports I painted grey. I tried to match the color of the Festool systainers. I built the old sysports the same as the one you see in the video. Except I got lazy and passed on painting them. LOL !
Take care!
Eric
Alright, I've watched every video you've made so far and I'm inspired! With an impending kitchen remodel looming, I'm seriously considering selling 4 of my 5 routers, my Unisaw, an extra thickness planer, and whatever else I can find to finance the start of a Festool shop. Unless you are subsidized, how did you manage to convince your wife to allow you to have such a nice collection for a hobbyist?
Rob D LOL! Easy, I get stuff done around the house. She wants something done.....I need a tool for that! LOL! And, a added bonus, both of us work and we have no kids to pay for.
You are officially my idol.
Rob D EASY GUY! LOL! I think you could aim a little higher for an idol! LOL !
Thanks for the content.. just curious if you have ever had issues with the plug it cord burning cord or tool out... guy at store seemed to think this happens regularly... seems unlikely
Awesome build!!
More Wood Thank you !
Thanks for sharing all these videos. I'm building mobile shop cabinets for my Festool which will double as outfeed tables for my table saw. I don't want flimsy drawers, especially with the larger sustainers, and wonder how well these work for you ... do the drawers sag or sway side to side much? I'd like something which feels sturdy, smooth operation, and perhaps soft close, suggestions?
Also, is there any particular reason why you use the back stretchers and then a thin back versus 18mm back? I'm going to make mobile cabinets in my shop which roll underneath a workbench top. The ones which store my systainers will be rolled out, put together back to back, and my MFT table will sit on top of them. They MFT table height will be just a bit less than my table saw, jointer, and planer so it can be used as an out feed table and will also serve as an assembly/glue up table. Do you think there's much difference between how much weight can be supported on top of the cabinets when using your method versus 18mm back which sits on top of the bottom and dados to the sides?
Nice build. Glad to see you posting again. 57? I might have enough to build two of those cabinets. But, Christmas is just around the corner.
James Bushey December 1st is just around the corner! I have the new Vecturo on the way. Why wait till Christmas? LOL ! Build them and fill them. Take care, Eric
Nice. . and nice work shop you have..
+christoffer1973 Thanks Christoffer !
Great video and an absolutely fabulous workshop. Just out of interest how many Systainers do you own? I have 36 and it looks like you have double that...
+ishortland Um, not 100% on this, but I have around 60. March 1st will bring a couple more to my shop. VAC-SYS is being released and I'm a little pumped about that ! Take care, Eric
Thanks! Great video. I'm curious about the length of your sides. Why 1000mm and not 992mm(31x32mm)? Were you trying to match something else or is there a clearance reason not to make the sides a multiple of 32 and make the sides interchangeable? If I understood correctly, you said that the first hole was 48mm up from the bottom, so I'm assuming that you referenced the LR32 off the bottom and started drilling at the second hole with 16 up and out on the spacer, which would leave the extra 8mm at the top. If I did my math (and listening) right I got 1096mm for the total height of your sysport. Is that correct?
I never noticed before that standard caster mounting heights were in increments of 32mm. 2" caster-64mm mtg height, 3 inch caster-96mm mtg height and 4 inch caster-128mm mtg height.
+ERIBaseball Yes, you are correct. My total height is 1096mm. I was trying to match the height of the Festool Sysports. The true Festool Sysports with wheels are 400mm deep 500mm wide and 1100mm high. And expensive! LOL. Since I used 96mm (3") casters, it got me close enough for me to the height of the Festool version.
Yes I did reference the end stops off the bottom of the sides with 16 up and out. I always reference the end stops off the bottoms when my pieces are not increments of 32mm. And I usually always skip the first hole because it gets covered by the bottom of the cabinet, or in this case the bottom of the sysport. So no sense in drilling it out.
The center of the top hole is 56mm from the top edge. I did not drill all the holes up to the top knowing I would have at least a size 1 systainer on the top. With a sys1 in the top drawer location you'll have extra holes showing, but I had thought about adding a small pull out tray or drawer to the top for extra storage. I just never got around to play around with the idea just yet.
If you plan it out you can easily customize your desired height. I've seen pictures of guys who made them taller so they could store guide rails on the back or sides of their sysports.
I've seen pictures of guys who made them deeper so they could have two systainers on one drawer. You'd need longer drawer slides of coarse.
And I've seen pictures were guys have made their sysports a lot wider and added custom MFT tops to them.
So get creative and have fun with them buddy.
Take care,
Eric
Love the videos! Just a quick question about the slides. What is the thickness of them? I am just doing some measurement layout and need to know how bigger I would need to make the carcass compared to the drawers. I would like to add that I am now a member of the festool family, I have purchased the ts 55 with 26 vacuum as a package and also bought the Domino 500 with assortment systainer. I have a lot of cabinets to build and have never built any before. I don't have room in my basement shop I am setting up so I figured a track saw was the way to go. Sorry, I have another question about the LR 32 system. I can't afford to invest that much in the system from Festool, so I was wondering what would you recommend as an alternative to acheive the same results and be able to use slides and hinges etc.? Thanks again for making these videos and keep em coming!
Craig Wright Hey Craig. The drawer slides I used are 12.5mm thick,so I subtract 25mm from my inside dimension. As for a LR32 alternative....I've used the Rockler Pro Shelf Drilling Jig before the LR32 system. It's a good jig, but you don't get any front to back adjustment in the row of holes. They are centered at 37mm for the front and back row of holes, unless you use some kind of spacers. Some guys have used peg board for shop made jigs. So you might want to search CZcams for shelf pin jigs, see what that give you. Welcome to the Festool family buddy! Hope you enjoy the new tools! Take care, Eric
Well, I convinced the wife to let me get the LR32 system and the OF 1400 router....yay me!!!! So now I have to get the slides, what lenght do you use? I was thinking I need the 12"/30.5cm , 75lb. slides from Lee Valley. What do you think?
Craig Wright 12" slides won't work for you IF you want to open the systainer while it's in the drawer. You'll need 14" full extension drawer slides. The 14" will allow you to pull the drawer out and open the systainer lid 90* to access anything and everything in the systainer. Enjoy the new router and LR32, the OF1400 is a sweet router!
Eric, As always I enjoy your videos and techniques. I am going to make some of these Sys Ports to fit under my bench rather than a roll around. Can you share your source vendor for the Pro100 14" slides? I think these are ProMark brand, correct?
Joseph Aiello Ebay Joseph. I have no affiliation with this seller. I've bought from them a number of times with fast shipping and great communication.
www.ebay.com/itm/261189468299?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&var=560189456444&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Take care,
Eric
Hi Eric,
Just wondering what casters you use. Will H.F. casters work for these? Did you use any locking casters or just all swivel? I'm getting ready to purchase and thought I would check with you first as you have never steered me wrong. Thank you!
Jeff Waite Hey Jeff, actually I bought the 3" casters from Harbor Freight ( H.F). While editing the video I deleted some rambling about the casters, so that part was cut out. I've used locking casters on the first set of sys ports I built, but I never move them (they are the ones under my peg board). My floor is flat, so I decided not use use locking casters. Your needs may very.
Have fun shopping!
Take care,
Eric
So many systainers!!!
Sorry. One more. Can you post video of Kreg 5 mount setup that you created? Thanks!!!
How did the Kreg Foreman work? I'm thinking about one, but wonder if I should save and get the new or go for the $700 original. Pocket holes are great!
Justin Adams The new Foreman works great. The dust collection on it is awesome. When I bought it, I started a conversation with a guy who owns the older $700 model and the new Foreman. He bought the new one because it's lighter and he can take it on job sites. He told me they are basically the same machine and both of them work great. I'm not sure about the $700 version, but the new model has quick bit changing and uses all 3 of the Kreg bits, the original, micro and HD bits. If you're a hobbyist, I'll bet that the new Foreman will meet your needs. If you're a pro, looking for a mobile jig, this would be nice. If you're a pro looking for something permanent in the shop and do a lot of pocket screws, then maybe the $700 model would be better. Only because the $700 has a metal handle, the new model has a heavy duty plastic handle. Hope that helps! Eric
Metric v Imperial? I use both! I'm mainly metric these days though. Much easier calculating divisions. Good to see you back! What's your opinion on the new Kreg machine? Worth the money?
Bernie Jones Is the new Kreg Foreman worth the money? Honestly, I have to say YES. I was able to buy it 10% off plus get the Micro and HD bits for free. I bought it from a local woodworking store that had a demo day with different vendors. And Kreg had a promo going for the demo day. What I like about it......dust collection is great. Saves time. Allows me to use the regular, micro and HD bits. Bit changing requires no tools. It's light weight, I had to move it around a few times, Setting up the depth of plunge/cut is easy.
What I don't like about it.....When you change the bit you have to change the collar that goes with the bit. To do this, you have to lift the top and use a allen key to loosen and tighten the set screw that holds the collar. When drilling, the piece of wood moves on you, just a little, nothing big. But when I first used it I wasn't ready for the movement. I've talked to someone who has the older version, that cost a lot more, and he told me that it was normal. But I still don't like it. It doesn't impact the hole location at all. Just something that I'm going to have to get used to.
I would recommend it to someone who does a lot of pocket holes. Hook it up to a shop vac and it's a great machine. I'm very happy with it, with zero buyers remorse.
I have plans to have the Foreman sitting between two MFT/3 tables for additional support of longer pieces.
Take care,
Eric
Hi Eric! Thanks once again for a great instructional video! I really appreciate all of the detail as I am new to this form of woodworking and really enjoy your videos! If there is a Festool "Hall of Fame", you should be inducted! Thanks again!
J Waite LOL ! Thanks man!
MrBigerock Just looking at the top of the sysports, would another rollout fit for a couple of mini systainers? I don't have any, so I don't know if they would fit or not. Just a thought. Thanks again for your great videos!!
J Waite I have several mini systainers and they don't fit well on the drawers. You'd have to add some blocking to prevent them from sliding around. I didn't get to involved with trying to make them fit, I just did a quick fit check when I looked into it. I didn't like anything I tried. Maybe I'll make a mini sys port for my mini systainers......LOL !
Hey Eric. What fitting did you use to connect your Festool hose to your Kreg Foreman? I would like to do the same thing. Thanks.
Eric, I know this is old... but did you ever post the dimensions anywhere?
Great project, thanks for sharing! This is on my list. one question - If I am starting out just building one or two cabinets and I know where I want my shelves, would you still recommend drilling a full column of shelf holes? Or just install glides where I need them? (So is there an advantage to having the full column of holes?) Thanks!
Dude, if you don't drill all the holes I'm gonna call the LR32 police on you. I will personally file a LR32 complaint against you and see that you get the maximum fine. LOL !If you know where you want the drawers then no need to drill all the holes. No written rules that you have to drill all the holes. Your style, your cabinets so make them look the way you'd like.
Take care,
Eric
Don't turn me in! :) One more question - when planning the drawers, how do you know what dimensions the drawers need to be vs the interior cabinet dimensions? Do the drawer glides give this direction? Like some sort of offset from the cabinet width? Thanks again!
+Patrick Cox Most of the drawer slides that I've used required 12.5mm per side for the slides to function properly.
So for example, inside cabinet dimension is 300mm. 300mm - 25mm = 275mm leftover for the drawer box. Hopefully the slides you buy come with directions to tell you that the exact dimension is for your slides to work. If not, all ya need to do is measure the thickness of the slide assembled together and go from there.
Hope that helps.
Eric
Well, I was able to find the Pro 100 Series drawer glides so I should be in good shape there. Sorry for another question - :) What gauge nail gun are you using on this project? And then is the purpose of the nails in the shell just to hold things together while you attach pocket screws? Thanks again!
Patrick, that's a 18 gauge brad nailer. Yes, the purpose is to use the brad nail to hold the piece in place while I drive home the screws. That eliminates the need for clamps. Even if the corners are not perfectly flush with each other, the brad nail is small enough you can still move the boards and make the corner flush. Since I knew the nail hole would be hidden on the sys ports I didn't care about the nail hole. If you want to, you can always fill the nail holes.
What's the pink coloured material that you saw the plywood on in the beginning of the video ? Thanks for a nivelreumaan video. Ilkka Rasanen
The pink material is 2" foam insulation board. In the states you can buy it at Lowe's, Home Depot or other home improvement stores. Take care, Eric
Excellent work. Just a question. Would it have been more beneficial (durability wise) to have the side (vertical pieces) rest on top of the bottom board? The pockets holes would have been drilled on the side boards facing down to the bottom. Just wondering if it would increase durability since the weight is transferred to the top of the bottom board as opposed to being transferred to the horizontal pocket screws in your current set-up. Just an amateur observation and curious about your opinion.
+MrBigerock
A bit of a strange question maybe.. But what would you estimate the weight of the finished SysPort to be? Asking since I wonder if the are suitable as a way of organizing the tools/worklflow in a customers home. Meaning being portable. I think it could be possible to take of some ply too, in a "Ron Paulk" sort of way, to keep the weight down.
+Andreas Grøstad I'm not sure how much one weighs loaded. I've never tried to weigh one. It would depend on how many drawers you have and what tools are in the drawers. I guess you could empty the sysport, take it into the customers house, then load the drawers with your systainers. But that's time consuming. I don't think one man would have an easy time lifting a fully loaded sysport up a few stairs into a house.
Just an idea for you. If you need to move a lot of systainers into a customers house. Maybe try to mount a custom sysport onto a 2 wheel dolly. That way you'll have a handle and two big wheels to move the stack of systainers up and down steps a lot easier. Festool makes the SYS-ROLL. It's $175. Acts like a 2 wheel dolly. Part number 498 660.
I'm not a contractor, but I wouldn't want to move the loaded sysports up and down steps too many times. Not sure how long they would hold up to the wear and tear.
But don't let me discourage you. If you have and idea for something that may make your job easier, then the only way to find out if it will work for you is to make one and test it out. You'll never know unless you try.
All the best.
Eric
Hi Eric,
Can you share plans, cut sheet and material list? Great video.
Sorry. I don't have plans or a cut sheet. I don't use sketch up or any software for my projects, so I can't share a file. I'm old school. I grab paper and pencil and draw out my projects. Chicken scratch some numbers and figure my measurements. For quick shop build like my sys ports, all I did was write down the dimension I wanted them to be, did a little math and wrote down some dimensions for the pieces and just started cutting. I recorded this video over 2 years ago, I've thrown away any measurements I had for my sys ports. Sorry.
Hi, You use pockets screws alot for cabinet assembly. Does the domino, glue and clamping not do the trick?
Thanks
David Coefield The pocket screws for me act as clamps. If I was to use only dominos and glue I would need to use clamps and wait for the glue to dry. Sometimes pocket screws work, sometimes dominos work. Sometimes they work together. It's up to the guy and the way he wants to tackle the project. I like pocket screws. Especially now that I have the Kreg Foreman. It makes for a very quick strong joint. The Domino does add strength to the joint. But, in my opinion, it's not always needed. To each his own. We have may ways to cut and join wood. Use a method that works for you buddy! That's what I do. Take care ! Eric
Welcome back!!! Love it!
Lance's Woodshop & Adventures DUDE ! Thanks. What have YOU been up to? Stop flying that drone around and get to building something. Spying on your neighbors hot 19 year old daughter can get you into trouble buddy! LOL
Hope all is well with you Lance. Take care buddy. Eric
Finally another video! Lol! Great job Eric, as always! With all the pocket holes you do I'm surprised it took this long for u to get the kreg foreman! U get that at woodcraft on sale? Also u got a new drill! 40% off recon sale?
Jeremiah Schwenger Thanks buddy ! No, I bought the Kreg Foreman at Cleveland Tool & Cutter during a demo day they had. I did break down and pick up a Ti15 set during the last recon sale, at 40% off. It was just to good to pass up. And I'm glad I did. It's a nice impact driver. As for the Kreg Foreman, it's a sweeeeeeet machine ! Take care ! Eric
MrBigerock I must of missed you at the open house. I stopped up there Friday after work. I just picked up some Peruvian Walnut this past Tuesday. There wood is not cheap but it is straight and flat!
Patrick Melchior Yeah, we missed each other by a day. I was there Saturday morning. It was tuff only walking out with just the Kreg Foreman. HAHAHA ! I've never bought lumber from them. But they do have some nice lumber there.
Those are some nice looking systainer ports! I was thinking of making some a little shorter so they would fit under an MFT. What kind of screws are you using to attach the slides to the side of the cabinets?
Mike
Michael Chrest The screws are 6.3mm X 13mm Euro screws. Designed to be used with 5mm holes.
MrBigerock Thanks! I ordered the slides on ebay. I think the same seller has those screws.
MrBigerock Thanks for the info. will check it out. Looking forward this spring to see your new shop
Do you have plan for this Systainer build?
AWESOME SHOP MAN!!! im very Jealous....KEEP THE VIDEO'S COMING
I dont get systainers unless you are a jobbing tradesman going from site to site - otherwise its just another barrier between me and getting the tool I want ASAP. Open trays are better most times.
dust
great video Eric. I have been thinking on going metric ......
Patrick Melchior Do it Patrick. Build a simple box or something small using only millimeters. That's how I got started, small boxes/projects to get used to measuring and to get a feel of what 100mm looks like, just as an example. It didn't take me long to pick it up. Take care, Eric
You have clearly won the lottery. A working guy could never in a lifetime buy the tools I can see in this video.
***** Clearly won the lottery? HAHAHA.....nope. I'm a working man, I log in about 90 hours every two weeks.
My secret.....and this is between you and me.......I have no kids and a wife that works as well. Between the two of us working, and no kids to pay for, well, it frees up a lot of money.
If I was to hit the lottery then I would have the Festool CMS router table, which in my opinion is crap. And I wouldn't bother building my own sys ports, I would just buy the over priced Festool version. LOL!
Take care,
Eric
MrBigerock
I find your videos hard to watch, not because you did anything wrong but because I cant stare at those tools and how easy everything comes together...I don't have your luck/skills/tools....but I'm working on it.
+MrBigerock Definitely living life of a DINK (Dual Income No Kids). Amazing how broke all my friends with kids are, and they all work far more than I do. My friend just paid for braces for his eldest while I bought a DF500, CT36, RO 150 and a TS55. I'll take Festool over braces any day. ;-)
So - Now understand - At one point in my life, I to was a "DINK" [Dual Income No Kids] lol
when you layout for your holes for your sysports for the pro series slides you set your parallel stops at 37mm for the fronts correct? The backs are set at what mm? Thanks Doug.
+Doug Smith Hi Doug, For the Pro series slides I referenced the edge stops off the front of the sysport for the front and back holes. Yes, the front row of holes center is 37mm off the front. But for the back row of holes, the scale on the black plastic part of the edge stops ran off the scale on the rod. Hope that makes sense. So I can't provide a scale number for you. Sorry man. It's easy to center the LR32 guide plate. Not sure if you familiar how to do it, so I'll share my method with you.
For the Pro series slides I made a mark 262mm off the front edge of the sysport, at both the top and bottom of the piece. This mark represents the center of the 5mm hole. The center of the back hole should be 224mm from the center of the front hole. The front row center is 37mm off the front edge. 224mm is your True32 number, but please double check your slides. The center of the front euro screw location on the slide to the center of the back euro screw location should be a True32 number, meaning it's divisible by 32. With the guide plate centered on the router, and the 5mm bit in, slide the setup over until the center of the 5mm bit is centered with the mark you made at 262mm. You'll have to plunge the router down and line up the brad point of the 5mm bit with your pencil mark. Do this on the top and bottom of the piece. Set the edge stops. And you should be good to go.
I hope this helps and makes some sense to you buddy. Sorry I can't just throw you a number for the edge stops.
If you need more info, shoot me a message.
Take care,
Eric
+Doug Smith Thanks for all your help. It make sense now. Keep bringing on the videos of allyour new projects there great.
Festool in Germany says thank you 👌👍
Ah I love watching the master at work. It's like watching a heart surgeon do a quadruple bypass whilst doing a a triple front role with a half pike of a 10m diving board. Great work Eric. One question. Why did you drill that line of holes inside the boxes? Did I miss something? Cheers.
David Handley LOL ! Thanks David. Did you miss something? I would say so.....the last couple minutes of the video. hahaha!
Triple front role off a 10m diving board? I'm more like a cannon ball guy ! The bigger the splash, the better. LOL. Thanks for watching buddy ! Take care, Eric
Do you happen to have plans of the dimensions you used for this build? i am wanting to build something like this but don't really want to figure out all the dimensions.
+Rigby Woodsman Warning: All measurements for this project are in Millimeters.
I posted this video on the FOG (Festoolownersgroup.com) A member had written down the measurements and shared them on the FOG thread.
Here is link to that thread.....
festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/video-making-sys-ports/msg355074/#msg355074
Here you go buddy !
Measurements as stated by Eric in the video from the 7:37 mark:
Side piece: 18mm plywood - 400mm (d) x 1000mm (h) with edgebanding on front and top
Tops and bottoms: 18mm plywood - 460mm (w) x 400mm (d) with edgebanding on front
Backstretchers: 18mm plywood - 82mm (h) x 460mm (w)
Backpiece: 5mm plywood 500mm (w) x 1003mm (h), which allows for 1mm edgebanding
Drawer pieces:
Side to Side (inclusive of edgebanding) = 412mm
Front to Back (inclusive of edgebanding on front) = 332mm
Sides: 12mm ply
Front: solid poplar 437mm (w) x 40mm (h)
Base: 18mm plywood
Stop Block: 40mm in from rear
Drawer Glides: 14 inch full extension
Rigby Woodsman if you need plans for this you shouldn't even own tools like this
This will be my first project with the LR 32 system. I got my 14" full extension slides and while measuring for the holes my slides measure 35mm to the first euro screw hole. Question is do I drill the front row of holes 35mm back from the front or 37mm like the rest of the 32mm system?
J Womack Yes, you're front row of holes should be 37mm from the front edge. The holes on the slides are 35mm from the front to give you a 2mm recess, which is the norm with most slides that I have used.
The 37mm center from the front edge is a standard for all European hardware. If you notice with the Festool LR32 system, the edge stops are stored in the systainer set at 37mm, that way you don't forget. LOL!
Good luck with the build !
Eric
MrBigerock Great video man! I'm about to start building mine this weekend and have one more question about the hole placement for the drawer slides. How far from the bottom edge do you drill the holes for the first drawer slide? This will be my first project with the LR 32 so that might be a dumb question. Thanks!
George Werner Hey George, the center of the first hole from the bottom edge is 48mm. With a 18mm bottom it will place the center of the first hole at 30mm. Which makes the bottom of the first drawer slide around 7mm off the bottom. Allowing for enough clearance for the drawer to slide without anything in the way. And to stay clear of any bolts you might use for attaching the casters.
Good luck with the build. Have fun!!!!
Take care,
Eric
MrBigerock Thanks man! Found your series on the LR 32 last night and learned a lot. Awesome work!
Hi Im thinking of making a storage such as yours. What are the spacings of the holes running up the side, to except the different size sustainer's? thanks craig
Craig Helliwell Craig the center of the holes are 37mm in from the front edge and they run up the cabinet centered every 32mm apart. The back row of holes centers are 294mm off the front edge.
Take care,
Eric
Cheers mate. craig
Nice work and entertaining video. Just how many Systainers do you have???
Steve Lyde Thanks Steve. I'm trying to come out of my shell and be a little more entertaining. I'm the type of guy that likes to joke around A LOT! I edit so many goofy things that I do in the shop while working on projects. So maybe I can be a little bit more goofy with some videos in the future.
I have 57 systainers. With a couple more coming in the beginning of December. Take care. Eric
damn! what an awesome setup you have. you must've spent a fortune on Festool gear
Between Festool and Woodpecker tools that workshop is probably worth more more than my first house! Super jealous! Nicely done!
Useful. Thanks.
Do you plans for this build?
What is hole spacing on side of box? 32mm? Thanks.
David Schurger Yes David, the holes are 32mm apart. I used the Festool LR32 system to drill the holes.
As an American, I have to say I prefer working in metric. Just buy a metric tape measure and convert. It is so much easier and more accurate. Using feeler gauges is also much easier in metric vs thousands of an inch.
dpeagles It is funny, the whole metric vs. imperial debate. I wanted to learn it, so I just bought a metric tape, and said screw it, I'm going to build my next project using only millimeters. And since then (around 2010-ish) I have been measuring everything with that metric tape. To each his own I guess. I'm also amused by the messages I receive from guys telling me I'm dumb for using millimeters and they can't watch my videos because the metric system mean nothing to America and that If I wanted more CZcams subscribers I should start using a imperial tape measure. I responded to that guy wanting to know how I was "dumb" for learning something that was new to me. And I told him that I'm not making money with my videos, so I'm not worried about how many subscribers I receive. The kicker from exchanging a couple messages with this guy, was the whole time I thought that he was at lease in his mid to late 20's, and after finding out he's in his late 50's, I just ended my last response with him with the old saying
" You can't teach an old dog new tricks" I'm guessing he didn't like that much. LOL Sorry for the rant, your comment just brought back that memory. Take care! Eric
I don't understand the mentality. Half of 1200 mm is 600. Half of 13 and 15/16ths is??????
The ole feeler gauges converted me. 6mm is smaller than 7mm. Versus 6 1/1000 or 6/100s. Makes your head spin.
Great Video! - Greetings from Austria!
Nice! well done.
+Craig Parker Thanks dude !
off course you are festool customer of the year, 10 years in a row.
Do you prefer pocket holes over Domino Joiner.
toolman 1This is going to be a generic answer, sorry about that but........ For some projects I prefer pocket holes over the domino. For some projects I prefer just a domino tenon. And for some projects I'll use both. It boils down to what you want to use and what you feel comfortable with. Both methods produce a strong stable joint. Each one has it's place for me. I like having the ability to choose between the two methods.
Take care, Eric
Good build video and damn you have a lot of green. I wish you'd narrate during the build process instead of the music though. The music gets a bit annoying.
SO you like my sexy voice ? LOL ! Thanks for watching man !
I should have watched ALL the video before posting!!! LOL ;-)
I had a look through comments to see if anyone asked about a possible cutting list 😀
Where can I buy 12 mm plywood???
Where did you get your Festool mat from?
+Geoff Kinlen I bought it from Tool-home.com a long time ago. I'm not sure if he has any left in stock. The part number is
M0040.
You may also try festoolproducts.com or bobmarinosbesttools.com
I've order from all 3 Festool dealers and received fast shipping and excellent service.
Take care,
Eric
Btw...I do plan on making one of my own in the future and I actually got permission to paint it Festool Green from my wife after a bit of bickering!
Grimm Day TIME OUT ! You had to get permission to paint it Festool Green? And it's for YOUR shop? LOL
Just busting your chops man!
Eric
She just really doesn't think that Festool green isn't right for any interior! I'm doing it anyway! lol
14 inch drawer glides? What's that in millimeters?
Bob Levittan: google it. Find anything online
G'day Eric, what is the attachment you're using to pivot the track from horizontal to vertical (czcams.com/video/ijrgA5M2Xls/video.html)? Is it a Festool product?
Cheers.
TheOneWhoMightBe Yes, that is the Festool MFT/3 Multifunction table. The MFT/3 comes is available in different sizes. The MFT/3 in my video is part number 495 315. Take care, Eric
MrBigerock Thanks. Something else to add to the wish list. :)
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Scott Barney talks about sanders. Festool.
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@1:47
what is that pink foam material ?
+Hai Phan (haiphan02) It's 2" rigid foam insulation from Home Depot, or Lowe's, either place carries it. Here is a link to the Home Depot. Not sure where you live, so I hope this helps you out. Take care, Eric
www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-250-2-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-R-10-Scored-Squared-Edge-Insulation-Sheathing-52DD/202085962
I like metric but way only millimetres and not centimetres?
No KA65?
Merci !!!!!
Did mommy and daddy buy you those tools to live your dream?
i think a name change to Mr festool is in order