This has to be the best, if not one of the best tutorial videos I have ever watched. Awesome job! You made something that sounds so difficult, look easy if you take your time. Thank you so much, you now gave me the confidence and motivation to tackle this job on my 1972 454. Thanks again!
Great instruction! I'm about to DIY rear main seal on a 1966 Chevy L6 with engine still installed and was having hard time getting the courage to tackle the job. My oil pan is 4 piece but you have covered all the bases and given me the confidence to tackle the job. Thank you, sir.
Hi Mike, being retired with time on my hands I decided to overhaul the brakes, suspension bushes, fit thermo fans, central locking and power windows on my `80 G10 Chevy van. While doing that I pulled the engine (350 auto). Primarily to clean , paint and generally replace any gaskets and seals needed. I owned and operated American Car Specialists in London Uk before coming to Aust.It`s been 30+ years since I did anything more than basic services on my American cars here in Oz, but thanks to your `memory boosting video` It`s coming back. The biggest problem is finding parts here at the right price. Cheers MIKE, i HAVE LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED.
Thank you very much for the comments and for taking the time to watch. I'm pleased you liked the video and wish you the best on your American muscle projects. Mike
Great walkthrough, i am about to replace the old felt rear seal on my 56' 265 and this is the best video i've found, not the exact same engine but the principal will be the same
great job and very thurough video. if i ran into you as my local mechanic man i'd feel i hit a goldmine in knowledge and integrity and experience giving you all this wisdom
Hi Mike You made it look so easy. I really enjoyed watching the video. Reminded me of the old days, some 30 years ago when I did my last in the car rear main seal replacement. I was on my back and the car was up on jack stands. The kit did not come with that helpful tool. In recent times, we put new seals in when we built our race engines, much easier when everything is apart. Your approach was very impressive. Thank you for sharing, Carl Bullock Newtown, PA
Thank you so much for this video. My 75 Corvette has a leaky rear main that I've been pretending I don't know about but after watching your comprehensive video I feel like I can probably tackle the job. Great video, very thorough and easy to follow. Thanks again!
Thank you very much.. I watched this video months ago to get a sense of how tough this could be. I am in the process of doing the RMS on my BBC 402 in my C20 and I fast forwarded to the step where you punch it through.. I went under the truck and with two taps, it came out. You rock.
Thanks Ive offset rear main seals like 10mm between cap and block, siliconed mating faces on seal ends and siliconed block/cap mating faces and never had a leak. Im trying out using a neo seal in a rope block as well
I cannot comment on the Fel-Pro 2912 as I have only used the blue 2900 2-piece rear main seal. I've read where the 2912 is supposedly less flexible so not sure that would work better or not. My thinking is the 2900 would seal better being more pliable but I have no experience with the 2912. Sorry I couldn't been off more assistance. Thank you for watching. Mike
What a great video. I'm not sure I want to do this lying on my back under my 79 Corvette, which will undoubtedly be more cramped for space, but who knows, I might.
I've done many of these with the car in Jack stand and lying on my back. Not ideal and a lift definitely makes it more pleasant but it's not impossible or all that bad. Thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike
Very very good job. A lot of these show and tells assume people know a lot about the topic already, you are able to teach with out getting too simplistic and taking forever. I like how you point out the somewhat "controversial" items, because a lot of folks do things different ways. Your video is really good, a guy can see most all of it. I really really like the first bit of what to look for PRIOR to starting the job. A lot of these leave that out. Overall, A+ and thank you. Great video. What i would like to see more of these types of videos is a) a list of tools required at the start (ie: wrenches, scrapers, torque wrenches, engine lift, etc and consumables like brake cleaner and gasket cement and others - both bare minimum and what is best) and write it on paper and show it long enough for a guy to take a screen shot and b) a list of spec, like torque specs written down so a guy can also take a screen shot. But still, a great video.
Thank you for your very flattering comments. The torques specs and general tools lists are great ideas. I appreciate you taking the time to watch. Mike
Mike the only problem is when you show what lip goes too the crank your holding the seal out of view of the camera! It be nice too see the end of the seal too make sure you have it right! I put mine in with the big side toward the crank and thin side too the transmission I hope that’s the correct way? Or I’m redoing it! I must of screwed up somewhere because after I installed it, it’s still leaking I followed everything you said cleaned everything, checked everything but I got oil on my bellhousing so I’ll be redoing this again but it shouldn’t take 6 hrs this time since the gasket is brand new and the pump is new
Great video, best I've seen! Made me subscribe. I'm about to do this job in a '71 Corvette - nice thing about doing this on a C3 Corvette, the engine sits behind the cradle, no need to jack up the engine : ) Thank you for sharing your expertise with all of us CZcams apprentices!
Excellent video all around, best walk-thru of doing a SBC rear main. Thanks for showing the felpro part#s and measuring for correct pan gasket as well.
Excellent job! I really like your attention to detail in regards to what to watch out for like the little nylon installation tool, unless there are directions in the gasket set addressing this I'd probably think was just piece of shad and discard it. I have a 427 4 bolt mains in my "69"Camaro and have been noticing a few drips as of late out of the scatter shield. Never have done this but always heard this could done. I would assume this would be the same for a BBC. Thanks for the effort in your videos, I know it take a passion and a lot of work to share your knowledge. Karl
Thank you very much. This video gave me info I needed to dare to change this myself. I apreciate you patience to make this video very detailed and easy to understand.
Sorry. It wasn’t anything special, just an 1/8” or so strip directly in the corner where the two surfaces meet. Then the gasket will spread it slightly when installed and torqued to spec. Thanks for watching. Mike
It was mentioned in several comments but I'll say it again. I never apply sealant to the end on the lip seal, just a little to the rear main cap. There is enough compression of the seal ends when the bearing cap is torqued in place that sealant is not needed in that location. Thanks for watching. Mike
Don't forget the zinc and phosphorus additive. I use Valvoline VR1 Racing oil it has zinc and phosphorus. Also do you not put a small dab of rtv where the two halves of the rear main seals meet? I'm doing this job on a G Body soon but I'm pulling the engine out because I don't have a lift and I'm a big boy I'm not going to be fighting throwing elbows at everything down there. While it's out it's getting a valve job, HV oil pump new Milodon 6 qt pan new rings and maybe bearings. Oh and new front transmission seal and a smaller stall. Going from 3500 to around a 3k stall. Great video and I like your shop it looks very clean.
Thanks for the comments. Yes, I put a very small (emphasis on very small) amount of sealant at the butting ends of the year main seal. As for sealant, I'm a fan of the GM ES (Engine Sealant) and use it almost exclusively. As for stall, I would recommend even lower than 3k RPM of running either a TH350 or TH400 transmission. Depending on what final drive gears you're running at 3k RPM the torque converter may be slipping just running down the road at 3,000 RPM which is doing nothing but generating heat. If you'll be running something like a 700R4/4L60 with a lockup torque converter you might be able to get away with it but I would still recommend a lower stall for a street driven car. Mike
Thanks for the advice I appreciate it to the fullest. I'm running 373 gears with a 350 trans. I'm actually going to purchase a jegs brand stall, I've used them twice before with no issues. It's actually a 2800-3000 rpm stall. I do need some stall on the street because the camshaft that was put in is a solid lift and power band is 3k to 7k. It's what was in there when I bought the short block. It's been running 8 to 9 years with it as a recreational use car. Again great video it's perfect in every way.
I'm very grateful to see your video & tackle this by going through this at the moment on my 76 f250 highboy. luckily enough my truck is tall and the oil pan is easy to drop. thank you very much, Sir, for your dedication & demonstration, your time to explain this is clearly much appreciated with myself and many others! I'm officially subscribed to you... cheers.
I'm considering buying a Camaro of this exact model and year that the guy says has a rear main seal leak where it sat so long. If it's really possible to do this, I'll be watching this video on repeat for a while haha
Great Video; one of the best that I have seen. One thing that I didn't see you cover was the gasket removal under the timing chain and the rear pan seal. I am thinking that those should be removed as part of the process if the 1 piece Fel-Pro pan gasket is installed, if I missed it my apologies. Could someone confirm? Keep up the great work, I would love to see more Mid 60's through mid 70 GM how to's!.
Thank you for the comments. If/when I get more 60’s/70’s cars in my shop I’ll be sure to show them. Not as many these days after closing my speed shop down in 2017. As for the gasket, no need to remove timing cover as the 1-piece or 4-piece gaskets fit in the groove of the timing cover. Nothing from the oil pan gasket goes under the timing cover. Same with the rear main bearing cap but in order to replace the 2-piece rear main seal the rear bearing cap is removed. Mike
Great video. Thanks. Wondering if the main seal isn’t leaking, the valve covers aren’t leaking and the intake manifold isn’t leaking, what else can be leaking out the clutch cover?
If you are certain none of the aforementioned components are leaking, as well as certain the oil sending unit isn’t the leak source, it is possible one of the pipe plugs on the back of the blink us leaking. They’re subject to oil pressure and they plug oil passages. It’s not common but I have seen it. Also Najee certain it’s motor oil because it could potentially be a transmission input seal leaking. Thanks for watching.
Wow, that was a great video sir, learned a lot, needing to change the oil pan gasket in a 77 Camaro w engine in car.... thanks, I think I can do it now. 👍👍
Got er done...they had the "thin" gasket on pan, needed the "thick" one....all done, no leaks now, thanks so much for the video, everything went as described in your video, got it fixed, thanks so much for showing me how to do this with engine in car. Very helpful...👍👍
Glad the job went well and glad my video was able to help. Thank you for the comments. Now you can enjoy a leak free engine, at least until the next one pops up. 😜 Mike
I have owned a '78 base Camaro and now an '81 Z28. It seems to me the 2 piece rear main seal SBCs practically came from the factory with a leak or leaks.
Superb! I really enjoyed watching this video, thanks. It was very well done and I can also appreciate the attention to detail and had a chuckle at 32:05 when you aligned your hammers.
Thank you. I’m not gonna lie, I had to go and watch that @ 32:05 because I didn’t know what you were referring to. I don’t even remember doing that but I’ve been told by my son and others that I am always aligning and/or rearranging my tools. I’ve not noticed myself doing it so it must be like a nervous tick or something. I’ll have to pay closer attention and work in correcting that. Thank you for watching and especially for the comments. Mike
Nice presentation, I have a questions for you. When you have an older 60's 327 or 283 that does not have a tap in the front of the crank shaft and you need to press on a damper pully. If you use a block of wood and a hammer, does this make the rear main leak?
Personally I have not run across a crank that is not drilled and tapped at the snout. Also I am not personally a fan of striking a crankshaft for any reason so I am against the block of wood technique. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike
Great tutorial, thanks! I'm following your steps on my '80 Z28 but even after removing the motor mount bolts and jacking at the balancer, the engine does not want to lift on its own - the whole car wants to lift. Any suggestions? The motor mounts were recently replaced by the previous owner and do not seem to be seized, etc. Bolts are clean and came right out. (Using my daughter's account to comment, in case you're wondering haha)
With motor mount bolts removed the mount halves should separate. Try using a pry bar and attempt to separate the motor mounts as they could potentially be stuck together. One thought, check to determine there is not a chain or cable tying down the engine on the driver’s side. This is an old trick for drag racers to assist in transferring power. Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Thanks for the response! I just wasn't lifting high enough and the car was just lifting naturally with the reduced weight. Appreciate your comment though!
sir have you even seen a SBC harmonic balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..
Putting it in the freezer was not the cause. I have seen many harmonic balancers separate over the years just due to age/wear so you didn't expedite its demise. Thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike
Thanks. Great video. Having problems getting the main cap bolts out. 1/2 impact did not budge them. Seems like someone severely over torqued them. Any suggestions?
Sorry not sure what to suggest. I've never seen any so tight that I couldn't get them out. They should only be torqued to about 65-70 ft/lbs. Maybe try a long 1/2" ratchet and apply firm, steady pressure and see if they'll break loose. Mike
Great video and very informative. Best video out there on replacing a rear main seal. I have a ‘67 firebird 326. Is that a one piece or 2 piece rear main seal. New subscriber and a fan of your work on this topic.
Can't remember how long just to do the rear main. Maybe 3-4 hours. I had the car in my shop a could of nights for this project but I also had a couple other items to address for the owner. Thanks for taking the time too watch. Mike
so do you think that it is or is not a good idea to apply gasket sealant under the crank seal? or is it recommended by OE anywhere in workshop manuals?
I have not seen it recommended in any of the FSMs (Factory Service Manuals) so I personally do not recommend it. Although I have done a few where the previous person did apply sealant under the seal but I do not recommend it. My theory is that the seals are designed to have a certain "tension" or preload against the ceiling surface of the journal and if there is additional sealant under that seal it can increase the tension or preload more than was designed and therefore can wear the seal out at an accelerated rate. Again that is just my theory but I do not put sealants under the seal nor do I recommend it. Thank you for taking the time to watch. I hope the video was informative. Mike
I have a question. I just had my motor rebuilt on my 85 Camaro. But the rear main seal leaks already, after only 2 months. So now there is an argument of who put what in! The built shop says they did put in the seal but they say the mechanic put the motor back into the car. The mechanics say they won't touch it, as the motor rebuilders put in the main seal...how is that possible when the seal goes in as you put the motor in?? I mean, I don't get this! Thank you!
If the shop that did the engine install is not the same shop that did the engine rebuild then this is in fact two separate shops working on the same engine. The rear main would have been replaced during the engine rebuild not necessarily during the engine installation. So technically they would have been different mechanics at different phases of the engine rebuild process. One removing and installing the engine and one doing the actual engine rebuild. I hope that makes sense.
@zmotorsports yes, I needed to determine who put it in as that means they have yo fix the bad seal. They may have put in a seal that was too old. Anyway, I'm going to the rebuild shop to get it looked at. I just did not want to get a run around on the part being replaced on a brand new rebuild only 2 months old. So what ever it us I am not wanting to have to pay for the fix here.
Excellent Video Mike. I like your work and detail...... I am replacing Rear Mail Seal and Oil Pan Gasket on a 1970 350. Using Fel Pro gasket and seal. Do you recommend a small dab of sealer on cap and block mating surface? I noticed you did not apply sealer to that cap/block area. Also I can see some wear on crank from seal but I cannot feel anything with my finger nail. I bought both Fel Pro seals the replacement you used and the offset seal for wear. Thx for your work,
I don’t put sealant at the cap/block mating surfaces unless I detect an imperfection in the mating surfaces. Thank you for watching and for the kind words. I’m glad the video was helpful. Mike
I'm getting ready to do mine. I noticed you didn't put a touch of "Ultra Black" on the offset ends of the seal or the main cap. What's your experience in doing that or leaving it dry. Thanks in advance 😎
Personally, I don't use "Ultra Black", I use GM ES (Engine Sealant), but I did, and do, put a very small amount on the rear cap. The seal itself should compress together upon assembly and create a tight seal without sealant. The bearing cap is what I am more concerned with leaking and therefore put a very small bead on the mating surface and just offset the seal. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Absolutely...Good Stuff. I'm a 30 year ASE master myself and it's always good to get opinions. I've actually never had to do one of these two-piece jobs, so disturbing the main caps made me a little cautious lol
Not sure what you are referring to but there is no check valve. This is a manual transmission so the fluid level is checked via a plug on the side of the transmission that is removed to verify the fluid level.
Informative video! I have a rear main leak on my 86 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham with the original Olds 307. The original two piece 'rope' or 'wick' type seal was replaced 10 years ago due to a leak then, but unfortunately started leaking again after 1 year. Im by no means a mechanic, but do attempt to do as much of fixes my self if possible. I read on some forums that there are now replacement neoprene/rubber rear seals to replace original rope fitted seals. Im debating on attempting this myself. Have you had any experience with using rubber rear seals in place of original rope type setups?
If memory serves I bought those from Griot’s Garage. It’s been many years ago so I’m not sure if they still carry them. They are actual fender covers but very soft and don’t put fine scratches in the paint like some of the other commercially available vinyl fender covers can. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike
Thank you for the Video! Question 1. When/where/should I use Anerobic sealer on the rear main bearing cap- I did it once on a Jeep 4.0 before..seems like it would apply here? 2. When the oil is drained entirely do you need to prime the oil pump prior to starting or is that only for a fresh rebuild? Thanks!
Yes, the rear bearing cap would be an ideal place that you could use an anaerobic sealant IF there were suspicions of a sealant being needed, such as mars or scratches in the mating surfaces of the black and cap. If there were no defects I would not use any sealant. As for oil pump priming you shouldn’t need to reprime as the oil galleys and passages should still retain oil. I have not found the need to reprime after a repair such as this and have gotten nearly instantaneous oil pressure. Thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike
Couple things. I noticed you didn't use a thin layer of rtv on the journal cap. Also, does it matter if you don't torque the cap back to the same torque?
I can’t remember without going back and watching the video again, but I think I mentioned if the mating surfaces are good I don’t use anything on them but IF there is any sign of scoring or marring of the mating surfaces I will use a small amount of anaerobic sealant such as Loctite 518. I don’t like using RTV sealants on the cast mating surfaces as I prefer an anaerobic flange type sealant for those applications. As for torque, yes, torque back to factory spec’s. Thanks for watching. Mike
This video was a big help. I have a question though, where can I get that little white nylon tool that keeps the seal from getting cut? I purchased a Felpro kit but it did not include the tool.
@@zmotorsports62 THANKS again though. I am working on a 1955 Chevy Apache that has a 350 from a 1980 Corvette. Eventually I am going 6.0L LS Twin Turbo with a T56 but for right now, I an going through this 350 and freshing it up.
Thanks for your input. I replaced the 2 piece rear main and piece Oil pan gasket just as you prescribed in your video. Same gasket and seal. Took my time and very methodical process used a torque wrench on all bolts. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets using the same process. Car ran for about 30 - 45 minutes and I noticed 1 drop of oil on floor under the oil pan below the rear main. Looks dry all around back of pan/gasket area but the oil is coming down behind the dust cover for the bell housing. Any suggestions? Thx
@@zmotorsports62 Yes I cleaned everything very well. Staggered the 2 piece main seal 1/8 inch and applied a very thin amount of sealant on main cap/back of block surface.
Not sure what else to say at this point. When I have a difficult leak to locate I’ll use a die with UV light and that will usually help to locate the source of the leak. Mike
Hey Mike, First thank you for an great video. I have a 68 Camaro SS, with a mid 70;s 350 small block, I have a question, did you rotate the crank to No5 for clearance on the harmonic balancer, and did you have to disconnect the header flanges in order to lift the engine the 2-3 inches, Appreciate your comments, I'm on the fence, because I wont have a lift, so will be on my back. Thanks again Tom
Thanks for taking the time to watch Tom. Glad the video was helpful. I did not have to rotate the crank nor disconnect anything exhaust related on the is particular car. Mike
Yes, I placed my pole jack under the harmonic balancer to raise the front of the engine. Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and for the comments. Mike Mike
Hi from Kent, are all late 60's small blocks 327 350 have 2 piece rear main seals or are some 1 piece , looking to replace seal in Chevy 327 around 68 ?
GM didn't go to a 1-piece rear main seal until mid-80's (86 I believe), so anything prior to that will be a 2-piece rear main seal. Thank you for watching. Mike
I'm looking at changing out rear seal on a 57 Chevy it has a A-frame cross member that bolts in, it looks like it could be dropped down on one side so oil pan can be removed. Can U confirm that, motor with 4 speed and motor mounts on front and of the bell housing, looks like I would not need to jack up motor. Are you familiar with that set up, and am I seeing it right, any problems I will run in to? 57 has a stock motor and bell housing motor mount seat up, with up graded late 60's small block 4 speed Muncie set up.
I cannot confirm on whether the cross member coming out can create enough space to remove the pan or not. The only experience I have with a shoebox was removing the original engine/transmission for a guy and installing a 502 big block w/ZF manual. Mike
Thanks for getting back , I'll work though it, that's what it looks like, like your detailed vedos. Already had M 21 out added new clutch.@@zmotorsports62
Is it ok to raise the engine and trans by lifting on harmonic balancer? Also guessing you also had to take the transmission crossmember bolts off too right?
Applying light pressure to the harmonic balancer is acceptable but keep an eye on movement. If the engine stops moving/raising, don’t keep applying more pressure. No need to do anything with the transmission mounting bolts as there is plenty of flex in the mount and it’s far enough rearward that the movement is minimal. Mike
When you have to loosen the other bolts to get the seal out how do you properly re tighten the bolts. Mine won't come out may need to loosen them up. Any info will help. Thanks for your time
Are you talking about loosening up more main caps to pull the crank down? If so, back them off slightly to allow enough clearance to remove the rear seal. Once the seal is replaced re-torque the main bearing as normal., starting in the middle and work outward (fore & aft). If memory serves on those 7/16” main cap fasteners they are 65-70 ft/lbs. but check your specific torque specs for your engine. Hope that helps. Mike
Can you install the upper and lower seal first on the engine, then install the main ? Or do you need to install the lower seal on the main before attaching it to the motor?
The lower seal needs to sit firmly in the groove in the rear main bearing cap then install the cap and seal into position on the block. Thanks for watching. Mike
Thanks for replying, I saw in the video thay you installed upper seal slightly off centered, how do I insert the lower seal while on the main in the offset position?
Just offset it to the opposite side as the upper seal but the same amount. I just offset them about 1/8"-3/16" is all, not too much but enough that the parting line of the main bearing cap and the seal are not in the same plane.
Nice video not a lot of extra BS and repeating everything you do a fine job . Seems like Camaros get tighter spaced and harder to work on with each new generation . I suppose the newest ones I dont know havent had the pleasure of working on one but they probably bolt the oil pan directly to the front suspension and the hood to the intake manifold . Radiator an fan are a one piece throw away unit the exhaust has a manifold built in for at least 75 sensors . The cats are locked in place with titanium locks and can only be opened by EPA .Oh and how many curse words does it take to get those headers on and off ? lol Nice car I had a few Camaros really liked all of them favorite was a 88 formula firebird same thing or the 79 z28 both fast and real sharp . thanks have a great day
I have a question. Where on the seal did you put the assembly lube? The outside so it slides around inside the block or does that side need to be dry???
I applied some Sil-Glide to the surface that meets the crankshaft to aid in assembly as well as to avoid a dry start on the seal. I keep the block to seal surface dry. Mike
Without a doubt, the best tutorial on this particular job that I could find. Excellent! Thank you.
Thank you. Glad you found it informative.
Mike
It would have been even better if he'd done it on my truck! 😆
This has to be the best, if not one of the best tutorial videos I have ever watched. Awesome job! You made something that sounds so difficult, look easy if you take your time. Thank you so much, you now gave me the confidence and motivation to tackle this job on my 1972 454. Thanks again!
Great instruction! I'm about to DIY rear main seal on a 1966 Chevy L6 with engine still installed and was having hard time getting the courage to tackle the job. My oil pan is 4 piece but you have covered all the bases and given me the confidence to tackle the job. Thank you, sir.
Thank you very much for taking the time to watch and to comment. I'm glad to hear the video was helpful.
Mike
Hi Mike, being retired with time on my hands I decided to overhaul the brakes, suspension bushes, fit thermo fans, central locking and power windows on my `80 G10 Chevy van. While doing that I pulled the engine (350 auto). Primarily to clean , paint and generally replace any gaskets and seals needed.
I owned and operated American Car Specialists in London Uk before coming to Aust.It`s been 30+ years since I did anything more than basic services on my American cars here in Oz, but thanks to your `memory boosting video` It`s coming back. The biggest problem is finding parts here at the right price. Cheers MIKE, i HAVE LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED.
Thank you very much for the comments and for taking the time to watch. I'm pleased you liked the video and wish you the best on your American muscle projects.
Mike
By far one of the best instructional video. Thank you for taking your time to share your knowledge and expertise.
Thank you for the comments and thank you for taking the time to watch. Happy to hear it was informative.
Mike
Great walkthrough, i am about to replace the old felt rear seal on my 56' 265 and this is the best video i've found, not the exact same engine but the principal will be the same
Thanks for the comments and thank for watching.
Mike
great job and very thurough video. if i ran into you as my local mechanic man i'd feel i hit a goldmine in knowledge and integrity and experience giving you all this wisdom
Thank you very much, I appreciate the kind words and thank you for watching.
Mike
Hi Mike
You made it look so easy. I really enjoyed watching the video. Reminded me of the old days, some 30 years ago when I did my last in the car rear main seal replacement. I was on my back and the car was up on jack stands. The kit did not come with that helpful tool. In recent times, we put new seals in when we built our race engines, much easier when everything is apart. Your approach was very impressive.
Thank you for sharing,
Carl Bullock
Newtown, PA
Thanks Carl. I appreciate you watching and especially for the comments.
Mike
Thank you so much for this video. My 75 Corvette has a leaky rear main that I've been pretending I don't know about but after watching your comprehensive video I feel like I can probably tackle the job. Great video, very thorough and easy to follow. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful and thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Excellent tutorial on how to replace a two piece SBC rear main seal...thank you for posting this.
Glad it was helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and for the comments.
Mike
The best teacher on the Chevy 350 planet
Thank you very much.. I watched this video months ago to get a sense of how tough this could be. I am in the process of doing the RMS on my BBC 402 in my C20 and I fast forwarded to the step where you punch it through.. I went under the truck and with two taps, it came out. You rock.
Glad the video was helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and for the kind words.
Mike
Thanks Ive offset rear main seals like 10mm between cap and block, siliconed mating faces on seal ends and siliconed block/cap mating faces and never had a leak. Im trying out using a neo seal in a rope block as well
Excellent. And what a clean shop. Am impressed with talking about how important clean mating surfaces are.
Thank you and thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Best tutorial on how to do it.
Thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and for commenting. Glad it was helpful.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 I installed the same seal on my l82 350 small block. Some say the felpro 2912 is better. mine is a high mileage. Thoughts?
I cannot comment on the Fel-Pro 2912 as I have only used the blue 2900 2-piece rear main seal. I've read where the 2912 is supposedly less flexible so not sure that would work better or not. My thinking is the 2900 would seal better being more pliable but I have no experience with the 2912.
Sorry I couldn't been off more assistance.
Thank you for watching.
Mike
What a great video. I'm not sure I want to do this lying on my back under my 79 Corvette, which will undoubtedly be more cramped for space, but who knows, I might.
I've done many of these with the car in Jack stand and lying on my back. Not ideal and a lift definitely makes it more pleasant but it's not impossible or all that bad.
Thank you for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Changing out the seal on my 79 Camaro . Tips and attention to detail were awesome . Great Video !!!!!!!
Thanks for the comments and thank you for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Solid tutorial on real world example. Good stuff.
This is an outstanding video on this task. Thank you. I wish I had a mechanic of your skills near me.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and I appreciate the comments.
Mike
Great video Mike. If I kept watching all these awesome videos I might turn into a mechanic after all. Nice job.
Very very good job. A lot of these show and tells assume people know a lot about the topic already, you are able to teach with out getting too simplistic and taking forever. I like how you point out the somewhat "controversial" items, because a lot of folks do things different ways. Your video is really good, a guy can see most all of it. I really really like the first bit of what to look for PRIOR to starting the job. A lot of these leave that out. Overall, A+ and thank you. Great video. What i would like to see more of these types of videos is a) a list of tools required at the start (ie: wrenches, scrapers, torque wrenches, engine lift, etc and consumables like brake cleaner and gasket cement and others - both bare minimum and what is best) and write it on paper and show it long enough for a guy to take a screen shot and b) a list of spec, like torque specs written down so a guy can also take a screen shot. But still, a great video.
Thank you for your very flattering comments.
The torques specs and general tools lists are great ideas.
I appreciate you taking the time to watch.
Mike
Awesome video. This is by far the best and most informative how to I've seen.
Thank you. I appreciate the comments and thanks for watching.
Mike
Mike the only problem is when you show what lip goes too the crank your holding the seal out of view of the camera! It be nice too see the end of the seal too make sure you have it right! I put mine in with the big side toward the crank and thin side too the transmission I hope that’s the correct way? Or I’m redoing it! I must of screwed up somewhere because after I installed it, it’s still leaking I followed everything you said cleaned everything, checked everything but I got oil on my bellhousing so I’ll be redoing this again but it shouldn’t take 6 hrs this time since the gasket is brand new and the pump is new
Sorry, like I've mentioned I'm a mechanic and not a videographer. 🤣
The large lip of the seal should have the front of the engine.
Great video, best I've seen! Made me subscribe. I'm about to do this job in a '71 Corvette - nice thing about doing this on a C3 Corvette, the engine sits behind the cradle, no need to jack up the engine : ) Thank you for sharing your expertise with all of us CZcams apprentices!
Glad it is helpful.
Thanks for the comments and for subscribing.
Mike
Best tutorial I could find great job. Now I feel confident! Thanks
Glad to hear it was helpful. Thank you for watching and for the comments.
Mike
Subscibed
Excellent video all around, best walk-thru of doing a SBC rear main. Thanks for showing the felpro part#s and measuring for correct pan gasket as well.
Thanks you for the comments and for taking the time to watch. Glad it was helpful.
Mike
Excellent job! I really like your attention to detail in regards to what to watch out for like the little nylon installation tool, unless there are directions in the gasket set addressing this I'd probably think was just piece of shad and discard it. I have a 427 4 bolt mains in my "69"Camaro and have been noticing a few drips as of late out of the scatter shield. Never have done this but always heard this could done. I would assume this would be the same for a BBC.
Thanks for the effort in your videos, I know it take a passion and a lot of work to share your knowledge.
Karl
Thank you Karl, I appreciate the comments.
As for the process, yes, it is the same for a Big Block GM.
Mike
Thanks for showing step by step on this job. Really saved me on the install.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching and for the feedback.
Mike
I’m a new subscriber and I enjoy! How Precise and calibrated this man is! Very thorough! And clear! Please keep these vids coming god bless! 😊
Thank you,. I appreciate the feedback and thanks for subscribing.
Mike
Thank you very much. This video gave me info I needed to dare to change this myself. I apreciate you patience to make this video very detailed and easy to understand.
Thank you for watching. Hope you find it helpful.
Mike
Thank you, very informative. Only thing I'd like to have seen is where you put the sealer on the oil pan gasket at 4 corners.
Sorry. It wasn’t anything special, just an 1/8” or so strip directly in the corner where the two surfaces meet. Then the gasket will spread it slightly when installed and torqued to spec.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Good job but I’m surprised nobody mentioned that you forgot to apply oil resistant rtv on the ends of the rear main seal.
It was mentioned in several comments but I'll say it again. I never apply sealant to the end on the lip seal, just a little to the rear main cap. There is enough compression of the seal ends when the bearing cap is torqued in place that sealant is not needed in that location.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Really like the sound of that torque wrench. Gotta get me one!! ✌
Don't forget the zinc and phosphorus additive. I use Valvoline VR1 Racing oil it has zinc and phosphorus.
Also do you not put a small dab of rtv where the two halves of the rear main seals meet?
I'm doing this job on a G Body soon but I'm pulling the engine out because I don't have a lift and I'm a big boy I'm not going to be fighting throwing elbows at everything down there. While it's out it's getting a valve job, HV oil pump new Milodon 6 qt pan new rings and maybe bearings. Oh and new front transmission seal and a smaller stall. Going from 3500 to around a 3k stall. Great video and I like your shop it looks very clean.
Thanks for the comments.
Yes, I put a very small (emphasis on very small) amount of sealant at the butting ends of the year main seal. As for sealant, I'm a fan of the GM ES (Engine Sealant) and use it almost exclusively.
As for stall, I would recommend even lower than 3k RPM of running either a TH350 or TH400 transmission. Depending on what final drive gears you're running at 3k RPM the torque converter may be slipping just running down the road at 3,000 RPM which is doing nothing but generating heat. If you'll be running something like a 700R4/4L60 with a lockup torque converter you might be able to get away with it but I would still recommend a lower stall for a street driven car.
Mike
Thanks for the advice I appreciate it to the fullest. I'm running 373 gears with a 350 trans. I'm actually going to purchase a jegs brand stall, I've used them twice before with no issues. It's actually a 2800-3000 rpm stall. I do need some stall on the street because the camshaft that was put in is a solid lift and power band is 3k to 7k. It's what was in there when I bought the short block. It's been running 8 to 9 years with it as a recreational use car. Again great video it's perfect in every way.
I'm very grateful to see your video & tackle this by going through this at the moment on my 76 f250 highboy. luckily enough my truck is tall and the oil pan is easy to drop. thank you very much, Sir, for your dedication & demonstration, your time to explain this is clearly much appreciated with myself and many others! I'm officially subscribed to you... cheers.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. Glad it was helpful.
Mike
Great Now I am ready to tackle my 1970 Chevy Truck Thank You
Awesome. Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Great explanations Mike. I'll take some of your tips when I do my Ford 351W that needs replacing. Thanks
I'm considering buying a Camaro of this exact model and year that the guy says has a rear main seal leak where it sat so long. If it's really possible to do this, I'll be watching this video on repeat for a while haha
Thank you friend, your a good teacher, good tricks of the trade. Keep the videos coming. Thanks again👍
Thank you. I appreciate the kind words and thanks for watching.
Mike
Great vid Mike. Very informative, had the info and level of detail I needed. Thanks!
Great Video; one of the best that I have seen. One thing that I didn't see you cover was the gasket removal under the timing chain and the rear pan seal. I am thinking that those should be removed as part of the process if the 1 piece Fel-Pro pan gasket is installed, if I missed it my apologies. Could someone confirm? Keep up the great work, I would love to see more Mid 60's through mid 70 GM how to's!.
Thank you for the comments. If/when I get more 60’s/70’s cars in my shop I’ll be sure to show them. Not as many these days after closing my speed shop down in 2017.
As for the gasket, no need to remove timing cover as the 1-piece or 4-piece gaskets fit in the groove of the timing cover. Nothing from the oil pan gasket goes under the timing cover. Same with the rear main bearing cap but in order to replace the 2-piece rear main seal the rear bearing cap is removed.
Mike
Thankyou for this video now I'm on the right track,
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Mike
Great video . Very organized and professional 👍
Thank you for the comments and thanks for watching.
Mike
Great video. Thanks. Wondering if the main seal isn’t leaking, the valve covers aren’t leaking and the intake manifold isn’t leaking, what else can be leaking out the clutch cover?
If you are certain none of the aforementioned components are leaking, as well as certain the oil sending unit isn’t the leak source, it is possible one of the pipe plugs on the back of the blink us leaking. They’re subject to oil pressure and they plug oil passages. It’s not common but I have seen it.
Also Najee certain it’s motor oil because it could potentially be a transmission input seal leaking.
Thanks for watching.
Wow, that was a great video sir, learned a lot, needing to change the oil pan gasket in a 77 Camaro w engine in car.... thanks, I think I can do it now. 👍👍
Thanks for taking the time to watch and I appreciate the comments.
Mike
Got er done...they had the "thin" gasket on pan, needed the "thick" one....all done, no leaks now, thanks so much for the video, everything went as described in your video, got it fixed, thanks so much for showing me how to do this with engine in car. Very helpful...👍👍
Glad the job went well and glad my video was able to help.
Thank you for the comments.
Now you can enjoy a leak free engine, at least until the next one pops up. 😜
Mike
I have owned a '78 base Camaro and now an '81 Z28. It seems to me the 2 piece rear main seal SBCs practically came from the factory with a leak or leaks.
Superb! I really enjoyed watching this video, thanks. It was very well done and I can also appreciate the attention to detail and had a chuckle at 32:05 when you aligned your hammers.
Thank you.
I’m not gonna lie, I had to go and watch that @ 32:05 because I didn’t know what you were referring to. I don’t even remember doing that but I’ve been told by my son and others that I am always aligning and/or rearranging my tools. I’ve not noticed myself doing it so it must be like a nervous tick or something.
I’ll have to pay closer attention and work in correcting that.
Thank you for watching and especially for the comments.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 hey man I thought it looked pretty professional 🤣 I’d consider it more of an ocd tendency
Thank you and thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Mike
Thanks for the videos. it was very helpful.
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment.
Mike
Nice presentation, I have a questions for you. When you have an older 60's 327 or 283 that does not have a tap in the front of the crank shaft and you need to press on a damper pully. If you use a block of wood and a hammer, does this make the rear main leak?
Personally I have not run across a crank that is not drilled and tapped at the snout. Also I am not personally a fan of striking a crankshaft for any reason so I am against the block of wood technique.
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Great tutorial, thanks! I'm following your steps on my '80 Z28 but even after removing the motor mount bolts and jacking at the balancer, the engine does not want to lift on its own - the whole car wants to lift. Any suggestions? The motor mounts were recently replaced by the previous owner and do not seem to be seized, etc. Bolts are clean and came right out. (Using my daughter's account to comment, in case you're wondering haha)
With motor mount bolts removed the mount halves should separate. Try using a pry bar and attempt to separate the motor mounts as they could potentially be stuck together.
One thought, check to determine there is not a chain or cable tying down the engine on the driver’s side. This is an old trick for drag racers to assist in transferring power.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Thanks for the response! I just wasn't lifting high enough and the car was just lifting naturally with the reduced weight. Appreciate your comment though!
sir have you even seen a SBC harmonic balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..
Putting it in the freezer was not the cause. I have seen many harmonic balancers separate over the years just due to age/wear so you didn't expedite its demise.
Thank you for taking the time to watch.
Mike
I loved that dental floss tip! Thanks!
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
Mike
Very helpful and informative. Thank You
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Mike
Very well done Mike . Keep up the great work .
Thank you.
Mike
Great tutorial. Nicely done.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Mike
Was that the dip stick moving around at the end lol! Holy shiznet!
How important are the torque specs for those bolts that go back in? I don’t have a tool like that need to know if I should
You should use a torque wrench to properly tighten the main bearing caps back in place as this is the foundation of the engine and rotating assembly.
thanks for your knowledge
You're welcome. I'm glad it was helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Thanks. Great video. Having problems getting the main cap bolts out. 1/2 impact did not budge them. Seems like someone severely over torqued them. Any suggestions?
Sorry not sure what to suggest. I've never seen any so tight that I couldn't get them out. They should only be torqued to about 65-70 ft/lbs.
Maybe try a long 1/2" ratchet and apply firm, steady pressure and see if they'll break loose.
Mike
Great video and very informative. Best video out there on replacing a rear main seal. I have a ‘67 firebird 326. Is that a one piece or 2 piece rear main seal. New subscriber and a fan of your work on this topic.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and for your comments.
The '67 should have a 2-piece rear main.
Mike
Thank you Mike for your speedy response. Your video gives me the confidence to tackle this project.
Great video. Got my 80z in need of this. 46 min Video but how long actual time?
Can't remember how long just to do the rear main. Maybe 3-4 hours. I had the car in my shop a could of nights for this project but I also had a couple other items to address for the owner.
Thanks for taking the time too watch.
Mike
Thank you. Great video
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Awesome tutorial. Thank you!
so do you think that it is or is not a good idea to apply gasket sealant under the crank seal? or is it recommended by OE anywhere in workshop manuals?
I have not seen it recommended in any of the FSMs (Factory Service Manuals) so I personally do not recommend it. Although I have done a few where the previous person did apply sealant under the seal but I do not recommend it. My theory is that the seals are designed to have a certain "tension" or preload against the ceiling surface of the journal and if there is additional sealant under that seal it can increase the tension or preload more than was designed and therefore can wear the seal out at an accelerated rate. Again that is just my theory but I do not put sealants under the seal nor do I recommend it.
Thank you for taking the time to watch. I hope the video was informative.
Mike
excellent tutorial - thanks for sharing
Nice video. Thanks for the info.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Mike
I have a question. I just had my motor rebuilt on my 85 Camaro. But the rear main seal leaks already, after only 2 months. So now there is an argument of who put what in! The built shop says they did put in the seal but they say the mechanic put the motor back into the car. The mechanics say they won't touch it, as the motor rebuilders put in the main seal...how is that possible when the seal goes in as you put the motor in?? I mean, I don't get this! Thank you!
If the shop that did the engine install is not the same shop that did the engine rebuild then this is in fact two separate shops working on the same engine.
The rear main would have been replaced during the engine rebuild not necessarily during the engine installation. So technically they would have been different mechanics at different phases of the engine rebuild process. One removing and installing the engine and one doing the actual engine rebuild. I hope that makes sense.
@zmotorsports yes, I needed to determine who put it in as that means they have yo fix the bad seal. They may have put in a seal that was too old. Anyway, I'm going to the rebuild shop to get it looked at. I just did not want to get a run around on the part being replaced on a brand new rebuild only 2 months old. So what ever it us I am not wanting to have to pay for the fix here.
I completely understand.
Thanks for taking the time to watch how I perform the task in my shop.
Mike.
Excellent Video Mike. I like your work and detail...... I am replacing Rear Mail Seal and Oil Pan Gasket on a 1970 350. Using Fel Pro gasket and seal. Do you recommend a small dab of sealer on cap and block mating surface? I noticed you did not apply sealer to that cap/block area. Also I can see some wear on crank from seal but I cannot feel anything with my finger nail. I bought both Fel Pro seals the replacement you used and the offset seal for wear. Thx for your work,
I don’t put sealant at the cap/block mating surfaces unless I detect an imperfection in the mating surfaces.
Thank you for watching and for the kind words. I’m glad the video was helpful.
Mike
I'm getting ready to do mine. I noticed you didn't put a touch of "Ultra Black" on the offset ends of the seal or the main cap. What's your experience in doing that or leaving it dry. Thanks in advance 😎
Personally, I don't use "Ultra Black", I use GM ES (Engine Sealant), but I did, and do, put a very small amount on the rear cap. The seal itself should compress together upon assembly and create a tight seal without sealant. The bearing cap is what I am more concerned with leaking and therefore put a very small bead on the mating surface and just offset the seal.
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Absolutely...Good Stuff. I'm a 30 year ASE master myself and it's always good to get opinions. I've actually never had to do one of these two-piece jobs, so disturbing the main caps made me a little cautious lol
Yeah, not a big deal to pull main caps if done properly but I get your reservations about it.
Excellent, Couldn't of ask for better
Thank you. I appreciate that.
Mike
Is that a transmission fluid check valve behind the bell house?
Not sure what you are referring to but there is no check valve. This is a manual transmission so the fluid level is checked via a plug on the side of the transmission that is removed to verify the fluid level.
Informative video! I have a rear main leak on my 86 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham with the original Olds 307. The original two piece 'rope' or 'wick' type seal was replaced 10 years ago due to a leak then, but unfortunately started leaking again after 1 year. Im by no means a mechanic, but do attempt to do as much of fixes my self if possible. I read on some forums that there are now replacement neoprene/rubber rear seals to replace original rope fitted seals. Im debating on attempting this myself. Have you had any experience with using rubber rear seals in place of original rope type setups?
Great video….need to do this exact job on my 70’ Nova. Where can I find those big shop towels you are using as fender protectors??
If memory serves I bought those from Griot’s Garage. It’s been many years ago so I’m not sure if they still carry them. They are actual fender covers but very soft and don’t put fine scratches in the paint like some of the other commercially available vinyl fender covers can.
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Great video! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment.
Mike
Like the dental floss trick!!! Will definitely be using that.
Glad you found that helpful. Thanks for watching.
Mike
Really liked the video
Thank you and thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Thank you for the Video! Question 1. When/where/should I use Anerobic sealer on the rear main bearing cap- I did it once on a Jeep 4.0 before..seems like it would apply here? 2. When the oil is drained entirely do you need to prime the oil pump prior to starting or is that only for a fresh rebuild? Thanks!
Yes, the rear bearing cap would be an ideal place that you could use an anaerobic sealant IF there were suspicions of a sealant being needed, such as mars or scratches in the mating surfaces of the black and cap. If there were no defects I would not use any sealant.
As for oil pump priming you shouldn’t need to reprime as the oil galleys and passages should still retain oil. I have not found the need to reprime after a repair such as this and have gotten nearly instantaneous oil pressure.
Thank you for taking the time to watch.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Thanks for the quick answer- makes sense!
Great video, thanks
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment
Mike
Couple things. I noticed you didn't use a thin layer of rtv on the journal cap. Also, does it matter if you don't torque the cap back to the same torque?
I can’t remember without going back and watching the video again, but I think I mentioned if the mating surfaces are good I don’t use anything on them but IF there is any sign of scoring or marring of the mating surfaces I will use a small amount of anaerobic sealant such as Loctite 518. I don’t like using RTV sealants on the cast mating surfaces as I prefer an anaerobic flange type sealant for those applications.
As for torque, yes, torque back to factory spec’s.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Thanks for getting back Mike! I'm about to do this job myself
Excellent job!! Thanks
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Mike
Excellent video
This video was a big help. I have a question though, where can I get that little white nylon tool that keeps the seal from getting cut?
I purchased a Felpro kit but it did not include the tool.
Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching.
Sorry I can’t help with the plastic installation tool as mine have always come with the seal.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 THANKS again though. I am working on a 1955 Chevy Apache that has a 350 from a 1980 Corvette. Eventually I am going 6.0L LS Twin Turbo with a T56 but for right now, I an going through this 350 and freshing it up.
Thanks for your input. I replaced the 2 piece rear main and piece Oil pan gasket just as you prescribed in your video. Same gasket and seal. Took my time and very methodical process used a torque wrench on all bolts. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets using the same process. Car ran for about 30 - 45 minutes and I noticed 1 drop of oil on floor under the oil pan below the rear main. Looks dry all around back of pan/gasket area but the oil is coming down behind the dust cover for the bell housing. Any suggestions? Thx
Could be some residual unless you thoroughly cleaned the lower bell housing area.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Yes I cleaned everything very well. Staggered the 2 piece main seal 1/8 inch and applied a very thin amount of sealant on main cap/back of block surface.
Not sure what else to say at this point.
When I have a difficult leak to locate I’ll use a die with UV light and that will usually help to locate the source of the leak.
Mike
Hi other than taking the motor mount bolts did you have to take off the bolt that holds the transmission on the crossmember?
No, I did not remove the transmission support bolt. Just the motor mount bolts.
@@zmotorsports62
Sounds good thank you.
What a great video for the job at hand, what brand of light is that? I could have really used one today.
Thank you.
The light is from Snap-on.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Hey Mike, First thank you for an great video. I have a 68 Camaro SS, with a mid 70;s 350 small block, I have a question, did you rotate the crank to No5 for clearance on the harmonic balancer, and did you have to disconnect the header flanges in order to lift the engine the 2-3 inches, Appreciate your comments, I'm on the fence, because I wont have a lift, so will be on my back. Thanks again Tom
Thanks for taking the time to watch Tom. Glad the video was helpful.
I did not have to rotate the crank nor disconnect anything exhaust related on the is particular car.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Thank you Mike!
Thanks for this, i need to reseal my pan. What did you jack up on, the harmonic balancer?
Yes, I placed my pole jack under the harmonic balancer to raise the front of the engine.
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and for the comments.
Mike
Mike
Excellent vid ty
Where ru located i have a rear seal that needs replaced? Im in okc
Thank you, I'm in Utah. I appreciate you taking the time to watch.
Mike
Wish I had his skill set for my 79 Camaro.
Thank you. I hope this video was informative. Thanks for watching.
Mike
Hi from Kent, are all late 60's small blocks 327 350 have 2 piece rear main seals or are some 1 piece , looking to replace seal in Chevy 327 around 68 ?
GM didn't go to a 1-piece rear main seal until mid-80's (86 I believe), so anything prior to that will be a 2-piece rear main seal.
Thank you for watching.
Mike
I'm looking at changing out rear seal on a 57 Chevy it has a A-frame cross member that bolts in, it looks like it could be dropped down on one side so oil pan can be removed. Can U confirm that, motor with 4 speed and motor mounts on front and of the bell housing, looks like I would not need to jack up motor. Are you familiar with that set up, and am I seeing it right, any problems I will run in to? 57 has a stock motor and bell housing motor mount seat up, with up graded late 60's small block 4 speed Muncie set up.
I cannot confirm on whether the cross member coming out can create enough space to remove the pan or not. The only experience I have with a shoebox was removing the original engine/transmission for a guy and installing a 502 big block w/ZF manual.
Mike
Thanks for getting back , I'll work though it, that's what it looks like, like your detailed vedos. Already had M 21 out added new clutch.@@zmotorsports62
Is it ok to raise the engine and trans by lifting on harmonic balancer? Also guessing you also had to take the transmission crossmember bolts off too right?
Applying light pressure to the harmonic balancer is acceptable but keep an eye on movement. If the engine stops moving/raising, don’t keep applying more pressure.
No need to do anything with the transmission mounting bolts as there is plenty of flex in the mount and it’s far enough rearward that the movement is minimal.
Mike
When you have to loosen the other bolts to get the seal out how do you properly re tighten the bolts. Mine won't come out may need to loosen them up. Any info will help. Thanks for your time
Are you talking about loosening up more main caps to pull the crank down? If so, back them off slightly to allow enough clearance to remove the rear seal. Once the seal is replaced re-torque the main bearing as normal., starting in the middle and work outward (fore & aft).
If memory serves on those 7/16” main cap fasteners they are 65-70 ft/lbs. but check your specific torque specs for your engine.
Hope that helps.
Mike
So I will be ok to re torque without any loctite?
Yes, you will be fine. I don’t recommend loctite on main bearings anyways.
Great video, thanks for your help!
You’re welcome.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Can you install the upper and lower seal first on the engine, then install the main ? Or do you need to install the lower seal on the main before attaching it to the motor?
The lower seal needs to sit firmly in the groove in the rear main bearing cap then install the cap and seal into position on the block.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Thanks for replying, I saw in the video thay you installed upper seal slightly off centered, how do I insert the lower seal while on the main in the offset position?
Just offset it to the opposite side as the upper seal but the same amount. I just offset them about 1/8"-3/16" is all, not too much but enough that the parting line of the main bearing cap and the seal are not in the same plane.
Does the offset of the seal have to super precise?
No. Just offset it by 1/8"-1/4" is ample. The main thing is that the parting line of the bearing cap and the seal won't align.
@@zmotorsports62 thank you.
Would this video apply to the 1977 Pontiac 350 5.7?
It should be similar.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
How do I tell if I have a 1 piece or 2 piece? It's a 1986 Chevrolet k10 I'm assuming it's a 305 passenger side dip stick
1986 & up are 1 piece.
Nice video not a lot of extra BS and repeating everything you do a fine job . Seems like Camaros get tighter spaced and harder to work on with each new generation . I suppose the newest ones I dont know havent had the pleasure of working on one but they probably bolt the oil pan directly to the front suspension and the hood to the intake manifold . Radiator an fan are a one piece throw away unit the exhaust has a manifold built in for at least 75 sensors . The cats are locked in place with titanium locks and can only be opened by EPA .Oh and how many curse words does it take to get those headers on and off ? lol Nice car I had a few Camaros really liked all of them favorite was a 88 formula firebird same thing or the 79 z28 both fast and real sharp . thanks have a great day
Thank you for watching. Glad you enjoyed it.
Mike
I have a question. Where on the seal did you put the assembly lube? The outside so it slides around inside the block or does that side need to be dry???
I applied some Sil-Glide to the surface that meets the crankshaft to aid in assembly as well as to avoid a dry start on the seal. I keep the block to seal surface dry.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 thank you. I've never heard of Sil- glide is there any other lube I could use?
You can use any kind of lube. I purchase Sil-Glide from my local NAPA. I use it mainly on O-rings and hydraulic cylinder packings.
Mike