Your video is the only one that shows what’s inside both sides of the casing cog wise and balancer will be watching for my rebuild I got someone else to crack cases so was left with bits everywhere lol thank you for video
When i bought it... apparently the crank bearings was toast and little metal flakes find their way to piston and head.. So i commenced TOTAL rebuild.. I dident had to do all bearings and stuff.. but thats just me when i first begin! ;) ...Proper work! with 110% working performance parts.!
Yes it is completely normal to have some oil buildup at the bottom.. That is also why a 2 stroker smokes a lot at the begining when its fired up.. To give an explanation : When the engine has run everything is in the engine is covered with a very thin layer of oil. When it then stops and not runs.. slowly all the oil drips down to the bottom and make that buildup you refer to .. hope that helps..
@jandj112507 Hi. Yes I believe its the shiftdrum or a cog(s) that are worn in some way. Only way to check is to seperate the block im afraid. Is it all gears? Or some in particular? It could be locked up by a bended or twisted part in the shifting mechanism. Is the clucth fully working?
Hey bro like your channel its awsome... I just bought an Atv (Yamaha Blaster) and I am having some problems.... so when you in neutral it revs like a beauty but then you go into first the whole engines bogs down and doesn't have no power.. barely enough to pull me.. then when I am trying to go up hill it quiets it cant handle it but sometimes the engine gets its power and I am going mad fast....HOW DO I MAKE IT STAY LIKE THISS!!
a 3mm crank does not need machining the +4 does and you will not get full compression till the engine has been broke in properly cause the rings have not had time to seat in the fresh hone ??
do you have a complete vid i am rebuilding the entire engine and would like to watch it ive never done it before but i have the diagrams and shop manual first timer ever taking apart a trany tho :P its apart waiting for some circlips and the crank
hi, i have a 96 blaster and i got it rebuilt and while i was rideing the oil injectoer went out and it shut off but it still has good comp but it wont crank so whats wrong with it and also when i kick it even befor it broke it wont turn over and we have to push start it so can u help me understand whats wrong
@expressit101 hi sorry for late reply. Well normally I fill the oil into a mesurement cup first. I know that the Blaster takes exacty 0.65liter oil. Then i fill it into the engine. But always double check. If you need to fill occasinally maybe you got a leak?
Always fun building engines but for some advice you should never pound bearings in, never hit the cases you should heat the main bearing so it falls right in and you should always put seal grease in the inner lips of the seal. The rubber will win over the steel shafts and circlips should be facing up.
It is because I install a "stroker" crank.. it is +3mm longer.. and therefore the entire cylinderkit needs to be raised so the ports inside match the piston.. The come with the crank! .. Its supposed to be installed like that. I used a dremel and grinded some to make good clearance.. but in most cases you dont need machining..
@ryanutter35 my 03 blaster did same thing thought it was bottom end tore it down nothing, pulled the flywheel off one of the bolts on the stator plate came out and lodges in the flywheel maybe check that
FROM SANDEEP9201: Hey bro i opened up my top end to install a new piston and i just wanted to ask you if there should be oil in the crank case. what i meen by that is, should the crank be bathed in oil when you take off the top end? i just wanted to ask you because you look like a expert.thanx respond asap
Hi, i REALLY need some help! I'm installing a whole new clutch assembly, basket and everything.. I'm having trouble with the push rod tho.. when you put the push rod in ( the longer one) do you just put it in, THEN the ball bearings? or do you put the ball bearings in, THEN the pus rod? Because in this video it looked like you put the push rod in first, and the 2 ball bearing... i thought it was the push rod first, and then one ball bearing? can someone PLEASEEEEEEEEEEEEEE help me!
hey, riding my blaster, and died going up a small hill when i gave it more throttle. now my 88 blasters kick start wont go down at all. No knocking or anything and when i tore it apart, nothing stood out to me showing any problems or bad parts. you have any idea?
We do that so the case and bearing seats expand. And freeze the crank bearings so they shrink...Hence why it went into place by hand!!! If u dont do either of those you would need an arbor press. I need to stop giving info away for free :0
i have a honda 4trax and i got water in and locked up engine. I got water out and put in new oil how can i free it up do i need to take it apart or is it just fucked
he was referring to when you removed it form the oven. i am guessing you put it in the oven to expand the block so you could press the bearings in. am I right?
Be cheap? lol .. I dont wanna buy tools for many hundreds of dollars when i only need them once! .. beside i dont think you could call me cheap when i used several thousand of dollars on engine rebuild. Regardless of what you say my solution worked and will work for other as well. .. I had no draggin, LOADS of power and the engine still runs absolutly perfect!
Firstly i ported the cylinder myself.. I made the intake huge and cleaned the transfer ports so they are perfect.. I did a little on the exhaust but not much.. i prefer still to have some durability over MAX performance (if i made the exhaust huge) Then the machine shop bored it to 68mm and fresh hone of corse.. (they also did the head, milled it and made the chamber/dome bigger)
I have seen them, trust me! I do my research before i step out into a project.. :) Thats why i tripple checked that ALL i did in the video would work and not ruin any expensive parts.. You make it sound like i just hammer everything to pieces! LOL .. I used a frekin rubber hammer to put the 2 half cases together thats it! .. Engine runs phenomonal and are VERY strong..
I thought it would be hard, but just make sure you have removed everything that hold them together.. then gently use a rubber hammer and knock them apart.. I called a local Yamaha dealer before i started.. they dont even use case splitters they just knock them apart.
@swebot haha thanks but what i meant was with out splitting the case i realized i had to split the case now i am waiting for the parts i ordered from ebay
@MrPlayer696917 There are two ways to do it. On the cable on the handlebar. OR real hardware adjusting on the clutch itself. That will require drain of oil and removal of clutch cover. Then there are a rod with a bolt. You turn that either way to get the desired setting. There is a short guide in the Blaster service manuel (not the user manuel) If you dont have it I will be happy to provide it.
YES! :) Problem is here in Europe and especially Denmark there are basiclly no market whatsoever for quad and motocross. So much aftermarket stuff needs to be imported and the very few quads there are are expensive ! US is flooded with parts and quads, dirtbikes whatsoever.. I know you can get stuff and bikes very cheap! :) I also buy on ebay! ;-) ... Sounds like you got a good deal!
I like the vid, but there are a lot of things i would have done differend!! Especialli with 2stoke engines wich run high rpm's!! Take a little more care for the engine when assembling! Fitting the 2 engineparts with a hammer? u know everytime you hit that engine, your crankshaft gets a hard time? Next time better heat the bearings a little in warm 2stroke oil, and place them then on the crank, next heat the engine itself so the crank with the bearings will slide of easy! Placing the pistonpen on this way isn't also great, another hit on the crankbearing from the pistonrod, those small and simple mistakes can destroy an engine on high rpm's. Things i learned from making those mistakes wich cost money. Still keep up the work and goodluck! Like to see more!
@dylanyuotube How do you mean sideways? As far as I can tell the piston moves up and down in the engine! :) You mount it with a metal pin from the side.
All engine parts! .. You have to remember Denmark dosent have a market for this! .. I have to import everything and pay import tax and expensive shipping from the US.. plus ex. all the bearings i bought from a Yammie dealer here in Denmark. Thoose alone is over 450$ ! .. then u have crank, piston, all cylinder work at machine shop, tools, vf3 reed, big carb, exhaust kit etc etc .. all in all i definatly have spend at least 2000 dollars i am sure.
When i bought it... apparently the crank bearings was toast and little metal flakes find their way to piston and head.. So i commenced TOTAL rebuild.. I dident had to do all bearings and stuff.. but thats just me when i first begin! ;) ...Proper work! with 110% working performance parts.! q
if you want a quality engine assembly or modifications look up ken o'connor racing, he is in CT and he is the best of the best as far as blaster motors go. His prices are very reasonable too !
i think or it is : 0.035" no i dont know what the compression ratio is.. however i have a compression measurement i will use very soon. Engine has only run a few hours all together.
@Sandeep9201 I dont know exactly the term in english .. But if I should directly translate it I would call it: Fluid gasket? Its a silicon´ish gasket sealant that can withstand heat.. You can buy it at any autostore. Just ask for a heatresisdent tube with gasket. :)
@monsterrmann2244 I know, this is the trick of editing! :) I had some issues along the way like a bolt snapped and I had to drill it out! (took hours) .. But the end result when editing the movies is quite funny to watch when the actualy work was a whole work day more or less! :) I havent been on the forum since I sold the Blaster.. I had to due to financial issues! :(
quiero reparar mi yamaha blaster pero de donde soy no hay nada de piezas para la blaster alguien me podría decir en donde conseguirlas necesito el pistón y los empaques soy de Cd mante tamaulipas por favor
@bombin1181 u most likely fouled out ur spark plug and the powerband isn't kicking in replace the plug and see if that's the problem before u start tearing down the engine
I know it sounds "tough" but i dont breakin very much..its high performance parts and in my oppinion I would believe they dont need that very much break in... what i did was use a normal 32:1 mix.. do not add more oil during breakin..then i let it idle for 10min... drove some with with a little gas .. some more 1/2 gas and only when fully warm I do some more throttle.. I must admit i couldnt help it when i first was on the blaster and drove..
Hey... First of all i used a rubber hammer! :) Second the bearings are made of incredible strong steel.. Remember what they need to withstand! .. SO I DONT think they would take damage of me hitting with a rubber hammer.. I agree that the proper tools is easier and better lookin.. but either way same results and durability.
@monsterrmann2244 I used OEM from a dealer.. The are of the brand : Koya .. Japanesee steel .. very high quality.. I used a seal kit from Vito´s Performance.. :)
@austinyoung300ex They were preoiled just a little to prevent corrosion! .. But there was no reason to soak them, because when everything was put together you put gearoil in it! ;-) So everything was of corse lubricated nicely
Yeah but here in Denmark I would properly have to spend something like 150-200$ for all the tools needed... So thats why i dident do it! .. The case splitter and bearing puller alone is over 100$ at least here in Denmark.
No there is no sparkplug.. and at the very last i put my finger in the sparkplug hole to see compression.. keep in mind that the head is milled and whatnot to make the most compression.
You don't need to trench the cases for a vitos 3mm stroker only the 4mm, all that unnecessary trenching will do is increase crankcase volume which will decrease your performance.
@rustyATV Yeah! Hahah.. you will notice baby food in the background lol! People think that was quite funny - and like bakeing a cake, I baked the block in the oven ! hehe...
@KHank1995 Ahh.. Thats one of the easy! :) You just "hammer" it out from the other side! its much much worse with the ones where you are unable to hit it from the backside. . They need to be pulled or cut out. (But remember!!! You can only hammer that bearing out from one of the sides..)
@MrMerrill22 I dont know!!! hahah! :) a LOT of research, guts and tools! lol! :) But the right manual, internet!, forums and research before you "jump out in it" :. But if you are carefull and throughly it is possible.. if you ever decide to do it, im here to help.
@Sandeep9201 If you dont have the right tools like a bearing installer and puller etc. like I dident and you dont wanna do oven freezer trick then I would NOT do it! :) the only bearing that would be possible without is crank bearings.. the are big and easy.. but the rest forget it... you could also install crank
Lol that's gonna blow up u put the circlips in facing to the side the momentum will push them right out you only ever put them in facing up or down because it will hold them in tighter
@ladolcettaboy12 Hi. As I remember it there are 2 pushrod. A short and a longer. The ball bearing is supposed to be in the middle..... First the rod then ball then rod. If you dont have 2 pushrods then write to me again and I can provide you with a complete engine assembly manual. Lasse
@monsterrmann2244 Im sorry to hear that! Why did u rebuilt again????? To be honest - I dont see my self again with a Blaster. Fun machine, but next time I want something roadlegal and preferbly 4 stroke. However converting to 4 stroke requires more cc .. My dream would be Raptor 700! :-p but here that costs what equals to 13500$ (new) And I REALLY dont wanna pay that kind of money for a f*c*k*i*n*g ATV! :) but at this current time, ill be paying my debts and suddenly I will make a comeback
pliers on the wristpin omg i can go all day about what was done wrong in this vid holy shit paper gaskets i need to stop atleast he owns a torque wrench ++++
Well that is actually already possible! :) Search for my other movie: Yamaha Blaster POWERMIX! .. There you can see it runing - that movie is made only some time after this build... But a little after is tear my blaster down again.. This time it is a complete body rebuild with powdercoat etc.. Stay tuned to see one of the most cool Blasters around when assembly is complete! :) thanks
You used wayyyy to much force while getting that wrist pin in at 5:38 . You pounded that sucker in wayyy to hard and you probably did damage to the crank.
Your video is the only one that shows what’s inside both sides of the casing cog wise and balancer will be watching for my rebuild I got someone else to crack cases so was left with bits everywhere lol thank you for video
This video is AWSOME!
please explain how to fit the oil seal o
over the collar on the crank. your video excellent.
When i bought it... apparently the crank bearings was toast and little metal flakes find their way to piston and head.. So i commenced TOTAL rebuild.. I dident had to do all bearings and stuff.. but thats just me when i first begin! ;) ...Proper work! with 110% working performance parts.!
Yes it is completely normal to have some oil buildup at the bottom.. That is also why a 2 stroker smokes a lot at the begining when its fired up.. To give an explanation : When the engine has run everything is in the engine is covered with a very thin layer of oil. When it then stops and not runs.. slowly all the oil drips down to the bottom and make that buildup you refer to .. hope that helps..
@QuadSpot yes imeant oil box but we never mixed the gas and oil but like i said in the other message what would i have to do to fix it
@DA22VIS33SKI Could be jetting, or dirt in the carb. What carb u run ?
@jandj112507 Hi. Yes I believe its the shiftdrum or a cog(s) that are worn in some way. Only way to check is to seperate the block im afraid. Is it all gears? Or some in particular? It could be locked up by a bended or twisted part in the shifting mechanism. Is the clucth fully working?
@swebot do you happen to still have a copy of that engine assembly manual?
Hey bro like your channel its awsome... I just bought an Atv (Yamaha Blaster) and I am having some problems.... so when you in neutral it revs like a beauty but then you go into first the whole engines bogs down and doesn't have no power.. barely enough to pull me.. then when I am trying to go up hill it quiets it cant handle it but sometimes the engine gets its power and I am going mad fast....HOW DO I MAKE IT STAY LIKE THISS!!
that is an awesome vid..... wat makes 2strokes blow up????
a 3mm crank does not need machining the +4 does and you will not get full compression till the engine has been broke in properly cause the rings have not had time to seat in the fresh hone ??
do you have a complete vid i am rebuilding the entire engine and would like to watch it ive never done it before but i have the diagrams and shop manual first timer ever taking apart a trany tho :P its apart waiting for some circlips and the crank
hi, i have a 96 blaster and i got it rebuilt and while i was rideing the oil injectoer went out and it shut off but it still has good comp but it wont crank so whats wrong with it and also when i kick it even befor it broke it wont turn over and we have to push start it so can u help me understand whats wrong
i love it when a plan comes together lol
Why did you put 3 gaskets for the cylinder?? and what do you machine so the engine could accept a longer crank??
@expressit101 hi sorry for late reply. Well normally I fill the oil into a mesurement cup first. I know that the Blaster takes exacty 0.65liter oil. Then i fill it into the engine. But always double check. If you need to fill occasinally maybe you got a leak?
Always fun building engines but for some advice you should never pound bearings in, never hit the cases you should heat the main bearing so it falls right in and you should always put seal grease in the inner lips of the seal. The rubber will win over the steel shafts and circlips should be facing up.
@swebot o ok thats cool so is this the motor thats in your riding vids cause it doesnt look like the same motor
quick question how can i get out the bearing that you are installing at 0:48 i just cant seem to remove it?? thanks
It is because I install a "stroker" crank.. it is +3mm longer.. and therefore the entire cylinderkit needs to be raised so the ports inside match the piston.. The come with the crank! .. Its supposed to be installed like that. I used a dremel and grinded some to make good clearance.. but in most cases you dont need machining..
hello how do you adjust your clutch
@ryanutter35 my 03 blaster did same thing thought it was bottom end tore it down nothing, pulled the flywheel off one of the bolts on the stator plate came out and lodges in the flywheel maybe check that
FROM SANDEEP9201: Hey bro i opened up my top end to install a new piston and i just wanted to ask you if there should be oil in the crank case. what i meen by that is, should the crank be bathed in oil when you take off the top end? i just wanted to ask you because you look like a expert.thanx respond asap
Hi, i REALLY need some help!
I'm installing a whole new clutch assembly, basket and everything..
I'm having trouble with the push rod tho..
when you put the push rod in ( the longer one) do you just put it in, THEN the ball bearings? or do you put the ball bearings in, THEN the pus rod?
Because in this video it looked like you put the push rod in first, and the 2 ball bearing... i thought it was the push rod first, and then one ball bearing?
can someone PLEASEEEEEEEEEEEEEE help me!
hey, riding my blaster, and died going up a small hill when i gave it more throttle. now my 88 blasters kick start wont go down at all. No knocking or anything and when i tore it apart, nothing stood out to me showing any problems or bad parts. you have any idea?
@araceliamor10 Cook the gearbox? What do you mean ? There was nothing wrong with it ?
We do that so the case and bearing seats expand. And freeze the crank bearings so they shrink...Hence why it went into place by hand!!! If u dont do either of those you would need an arbor press. I need to stop giving info away for free :0
i have a honda 4trax and i got water in and locked up engine. I got water out and put in new oil how can i free it up do i need to take it apart or is it just fucked
I NEED HELP!!!! My 05' Blaster will bog down when ever i put it into first or second gear. It starts up fine. Do you know what is wrong.
he was referring to when you removed it form the oven. i am guessing you put it in the oven to expand the block so you could press the bearings in. am I right?
Did it start after All that work ?
@atanner1025 I am VERY happy to hear that! THAT makes it all worth producing it! :)
Be cheap? lol .. I dont wanna buy tools for many hundreds of dollars when i only need them once! .. beside i dont think you could call me cheap when i used several thousand of dollars on engine rebuild. Regardless of what you say my solution worked and will work for other as well. .. I had no draggin, LOADS of power and the engine still runs absolutly perfect!
Bos anu maganda ilagy sa makina ng l2 pra lumakas
Firstly i ported the cylinder myself.. I made the intake huge and cleaned the transfer ports so they are perfect.. I did a little on the exhaust but not much.. i prefer still to have some durability over MAX performance (if i made the exhaust huge) Then the machine shop bored it to 68mm and fresh hone of corse.. (they also did the head, milled it and made the chamber/dome bigger)
Thanks! :)
I have seen them, trust me! I do my research before i step out into a project.. :)
Thats why i tripple checked that ALL i did in the video would work and not ruin any expensive parts.. You make it sound like i just hammer everything to pieces! LOL .. I used a frekin rubber hammer to put the 2 half cases together thats it! .. Engine runs phenomonal and are VERY strong..
I thought it would be hard, but just make sure you have removed everything that hold them together.. then gently use a rubber hammer and knock them apart.. I called a local Yamaha dealer before i started.. they dont even use case splitters they just knock them apart.
@swebot haha thanks but what i meant was with out splitting the case i realized i had to split the case now i am waiting for the parts i ordered from ebay
@MrPlayer696917 There are two ways to do it. On the cable on the handlebar. OR real hardware adjusting on the clutch itself. That will require drain of oil and removal of clutch cover. Then there are a rod with a bolt. You turn that either way to get the desired setting. There is a short guide in the Blaster service manuel (not the user manuel) If you dont have it I will be happy to provide it.
interesting to watch
YES! :) Problem is here in Europe and especially Denmark there are basiclly no market whatsoever for quad and motocross. So much aftermarket stuff needs to be imported and the very few quads there are are expensive ! US is flooded with parts and quads, dirtbikes whatsoever.. I know you can get stuff and bikes very cheap! :) I also buy on ebay! ;-) ... Sounds like you got a good deal!
I like the vid, but there are a lot of things i would have done differend!!
Especialli with 2stoke engines wich run high rpm's!!
Take a little more care for the engine when assembling!
Fitting the 2 engineparts with a hammer? u know everytime you hit that engine, your crankshaft gets a hard time?
Next time better heat the bearings a little in warm 2stroke oil, and place them then on the crank, next heat the engine itself so the crank with the bearings will slide of easy!
Placing the pistonpen on this way isn't also great, another hit on the crankbearing from the pistonrod, those small and simple mistakes can destroy an engine on high rpm's.
Things i learned from making those mistakes wich cost money.
Still keep up the work and goodluck! Like to see more!
@dylanyuotube How do you mean sideways? As far as I can tell the piston moves up and down in the engine! :) You mount it with a metal pin from the side.
fed video.. godt arbejde :)
All engine parts! .. You have to remember Denmark dosent have a market for this! .. I have to import everything and pay import tax and expensive shipping from the US.. plus ex. all the bearings i bought from a Yammie dealer here in Denmark. Thoose alone is over 450$ ! .. then u have crank, piston, all cylinder work at machine shop, tools, vf3 reed, big carb, exhaust kit etc etc .. all in all i definatly have spend at least 2000 dollars i am sure.
one Quick ?. why did u cook the gear box
i think you mean the crankcase and im guessing cuz it made it easyer to install the bearrings
Where can i check it?
Check out my blaster rebuild vid, its very detailed
Need to no why my clutch isn't working can anyone help plz
everyone has a different way to do it and in the end nobody has 100% proof that their way is better. ushally it all works 👍
When i bought it... apparently the crank bearings was toast and little metal flakes find their way to piston and head.. So i commenced TOTAL rebuild.. I dident had to do all bearings and stuff.. but thats just me when i first begin! ;) ...Proper work! with 110% working performance parts.! q
I have watched them .. great movies.. but I still like my own style! ;)
if you want a quality engine assembly or modifications look up ken o'connor racing, he is in CT and he is the best of the best as far as blaster motors go. His prices are very reasonable too !
thx u so much
i think or it is : 0.035" no i dont know what the compression ratio is.. however i have a compression measurement i will use very soon. Engine has only run a few hours all together.
@Sandeep9201 I dont know exactly the term in english .. But if I should directly translate it I would call it: Fluid gasket? Its a silicon´ish gasket sealant that can withstand heat.. You can buy it at any autostore. Just ask for a heatresisdent tube with gasket. :)
@monsterrmann2244 I know, this is the trick of editing! :) I had some issues along the way like a bolt snapped and I had to drill it out! (took hours) .. But the end result when editing the movies is quite funny to watch when the actualy work was a whole work day more or less! :) I havent been on the forum since I sold the Blaster.. I had to due to financial issues! :(
5:50 only put circlip gaps up or down, never on the side
@austinyoung300ex it is the very same engine.. It did recieve minor updates later.. bigger carb etc.
quiero reparar mi yamaha blaster pero de donde soy no hay nada de piezas para la blaster alguien me podría decir en donde conseguirlas necesito el pistón y los empaques soy de Cd mante tamaulipas por favor
@bombin1181 u most likely fouled out ur spark plug and the powerband isn't kicking in replace the plug and see if that's the problem before u start tearing down the engine
why is there a spacer
I know it sounds "tough" but i dont breakin very much..its high performance parts and in my oppinion I would believe they dont need that very much break in... what i did was use a normal 32:1 mix.. do not add more oil during breakin..then i let it idle for 10min... drove some with with a little gas .. some more 1/2 gas and only when fully warm I do some more throttle.. I must admit i couldnt help it when i first was on the blaster and drove..
Hey... First of all i used a rubber hammer! :) Second the bearings are made of incredible strong steel.. Remember what they need to withstand! .. SO I DONT think they would take damage of me hitting with a rubber hammer.. I agree that the proper tools is easier and better lookin.. but either way same results and durability.
@monsterrmann2244 I used OEM from a dealer.. The are of the brand : Koya .. Japanesee steel .. very high quality.. I used a seal kit from Vito´s Performance.. :)
@araceliamor10 he heats some parts and feezes other parts to make them fit together. look at fx 0:30
@austinyoung300ex They were preoiled just a little to prevent corrosion! .. But there was no reason to soak them, because when everything was put together you put gearoil in it! ;-) So everything was of corse lubricated nicely
How close to a DTR125 engine that really is? Looks so identical from inside and out :D
Quick and dirty way to rebuild any 2 stroke (thumbs up), not a big fan of the hammer or clear silicone though.
Yeah but here in Denmark I would properly have to spend something like 150-200$ for all the tools needed... So thats why i dident do it! .. The case splitter and bearing puller alone is over 100$ at least here in Denmark.
@swebot what I ment was FLUENT gasket.
No there is no sparkplug.. and at the very last i put my finger in the sparkplug hole to see compression.. keep in mind that the head is milled and whatnot to make the most compression.
You don't need to trench the cases for a vitos 3mm stroker only the 4mm, all that unnecessary trenching will do is increase crankcase volume which will decrease your performance.
@hantef tak! :)
@rustyATV Yeah! Hahah.. you will notice baby food in the background lol! People think that was quite funny - and like bakeing a cake, I baked the block in the oven ! hehe...
@KHank1995 Ahh.. Thats one of the easy! :) You just "hammer" it out from the other side! its much much worse with the ones where you are unable to hit it from the backside. . They need to be pulled or cut out.
(But remember!!! You can only hammer that bearing out from one of the sides..)
He is referring to 0:44
Not to mention the circlip installation
why U dont use jet balancing.. Engine no balane.
@99yamahablaster
Thats very sad what happend?
@MrMerrill22 I dont know!!! hahah! :) a LOT of research, guts and tools! lol! :)
But the right manual, internet!, forums and research before you "jump out in it" :.
But if you are carefull and throughly it is possible.. if you ever decide to do it, im here to help.
@Ki11aBudd ?? I have? or you have?
i wish u could rebuild my the engine in my yamaha blaster =(
@Sandeep9201 If you dont have the right tools like a bearing installer and puller etc. like I dident and you dont wanna do oven freezer trick then I would NOT do it! :)
the only bearing that would be possible without is crank bearings.. the are big and easy.. but the rest forget it... you could also install crank
Lol that's gonna blow up u put the circlips in facing to the side the momentum will push them right out you only ever put them in facing up or down because it will hold them in tighter
@ladolcettaboy12 Hi. As I remember it there are 2 pushrod. A short and a longer. The ball bearing is supposed to be in the middle..... First the rod then ball then rod. If you dont have 2 pushrods then write to me again and I can provide you with a complete engine assembly manual.
Lasse
@monsterrmann2244 Im sorry to hear that! Why did u rebuilt again????? To be honest - I dont see my self again with a Blaster. Fun machine, but next time I want something roadlegal and preferbly 4 stroke. However converting to 4 stroke requires more cc .. My dream would be Raptor 700! :-p but here that costs what equals to 13500$ (new) And I REALLY dont wanna pay that kind of money for a f*c*k*i*n*g ATV! :) but at this current time, ill be paying my debts and suddenly I will make a comeback
pliers on the wristpin omg i can go all day about what was done wrong in this vid
holy shit paper gaskets
i need to stop
atleast he owns a torque wrench ++++
Pour diesel down the cylinder and let sit a few days.. should break free
@jakehoffsher
lol can i send u my 98 blaster motor but im from the us
never ever ever pound a bearing in, ever !
Well that is actually already possible! :)
Search for my other movie: Yamaha Blaster POWERMIX! .. There you can see it runing - that movie is made only some time after this build... But a little after is tear my blaster down again.. This time it is a complete body rebuild with powdercoat etc.. Stay tuned to see one of the most cool Blasters around when assembly is complete! :) thanks
You used wayyyy to much force while getting that wrist pin in at 5:38 . You pounded that sucker in wayyy to hard and you probably did damage to the crank.
next time lube up all the gear inside before you clost it up.
please keep the video slower ta see it clearly
r u german or something