Trying the "BEST" Brakes from AliExpress
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- čas přidán 25. 05. 2022
- First look at the juin tech F1 brakes from AliExpress, prices seem to change regularly, I payed a bit more from Amazon to get them quicker, but worth keep an eye on AliExpress for the best deals.
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Shout out to Luke at Trace Velo, who was on these some time ago.
Juin-Tech also makes the GT which are a 4 piston version of the F1. Got them for my gravel bike and they are really good. Granted, they are more expensive, but they still maintain the ease of cable actuated (I switch between flat bars and drop bars on my gravel rig, which would be a pain and a half with full hydraulics). I took them bikepacking on a fully loaded rig and had no issues stopping, even on steep descents.
Compare bettewen F1 and GT whice you think is better for stoping power? Coz i was plan for buy this brand but still looking for info about whice is more good, Luke trace velo say GT have 4 piston does is really more better compare 2? Does the oil inside must change it or must bleeding the bubble too? Thx
JuinTech F1 are fantastic! I had them on my gravel bike for over a year, not a single issue. Glad to see them in the mainstream.
Mate, there is another company called Onirii. I am running a Bikestore in Berlin, we already used and tested Onirii brakes, they have the same system as the Juin Tech ones. The brakes we tested were BR-02 and found out that with semi metallic brake pads the braking was significantly higher than with the sent Resin Pads. They performe well.
Furthermore they introduced a new one BR-05 which they claim to be even better.
I would be very interested to see the performance difference between your Juin Techs and the Onirii ones. Would be nice if you can test that and let me know!
Cheers, Chain Right
Кевин спасибо за информацию. Onirii brakes значительно дешевле Juin
name of the bikeshop? ;)
By any chance are you hiring?
I've been using the BR-05 for months now on my Canyon Ultimate along with the same groupset as Francis, and I can say that braking is really close to full hydraulic if set up correctly. The brake cable lines up better and straighter especially on the rear. Can lock up your wheels with just one finger. The only con is the paint job is ugly. Nevertheless, Highly recommended.
@@juanmiguelalejandrino Thank you for that Info
Hey there! well, compressionless housing make soooo much difference in modulation and braking power, I've put the dura ace 9000 cables with the join f1 and their very close to hydro brakes (I've only had an experience with tiara/105 hydros though)
I use the TRP hydraulic cable calliper on the rear of my bike packing bike. One tip install an inline cable barrel adjuster to increase the cable tension and improve the performance.
Will wait for your long-term review on these brakes. Thanks for this video.
you can also pair them with older high end cable groupset… I am keeping my 2009 Sram red going strong with these. I can lock both my gravel wheels out with these and modulation is pretty impressive, way better than a set of hydraulic brakes that need any level of bleeding and so far nit needed bleeding!
Brake tech & test Thursdays! Good to watch and honest review of both sets of lesser known manufacturers. Always better value options out there on the Internet......find the right one for you and your bike & you're onto a winner 👍🚵♀️
You should try the Hope RX4 brakes, a billet four pot caliper for road, be good to check out the premium end of aftermarket brakes to get a fuller picture.
Great content though as usual 👍
I have over two years and 9300 miles on my Yokozuna Ultimo brakes, and I think they're fantastic. They're the 4-piston model, but I think they're the same as one version of Juin Tech.
juintechs are good, yokozuna rebadges some of them. maybe you could do high end cable actuated vs high end hydraulic vs high end mech brakes
Used them for a couple of years on a drop bar 29er and had zero issues and always plenty of power. Have heard of some issues with the pistons returning slowly but never experienced it myself...
I have these ones on my roadbike. They were good out of the box with Jagwire compressionless housing, but power was fading in long passes descents. Now with Jagwire semi-metallic pads and Jagwire LR2 rotors, they are way better, more power and no fading.
Brake levers still feel harder than hydraulics, but power and modulation are almost the same!
Were*
Thank you, Francis. Not everyone has a bundle to spend for good performance.
Juin tech is actually based in taiwan, but they are popular on aliexpress
Will be interesting to hear how they go longer term, especially any issues on the rear with grit getting into the cable housing.
I'd love to see proper tests on a long alpine descend , after two month of regular usage. And then, move to compressionless cables.
I'm pondering on a 1x road bike with sensa gravel shfters, juintech brakes, a 40 teeth oval, narrow-wide chainring in front and the rotor 11-39 12 speed cassette.
I've heard some are complaining about juintech's stock pads not being good. I never had problem with it tbh, just properly bed them and it will have the braking power you. I'm pretty much happy with my juintech.
I used the Juin's on my first gravel bike and they were amazing!
Thanks for efficiently cutting right to the meaty info: cost, install, performance without filler. I run these on my SS gravel and agree with your assessment. A couple of statements that you made are DEAD ON. The first is that once you get used to high end components, you turn into a snob. I nearly choked on my overpriced coffee on that one. Reality is a harsh mistress. Second, the statement that you'd race on these was the true thumbs up. That's a great litmus test for a reviewer regardless of whether the audience races. Yeah, this milled out crank or ultralight wheelset is good, but would you race on them? I wonder if Luke from Trace Velo or the guys from the Escape Collective would race on some of the stuff that they enthusiastically endorse. No shade to those gentlemen because they are awesome for our sport/lifestyle, but your video sparked that line of thought. Thanks again!
Looking forward to the video on the zraces!
Also - are you not using compressionless brake housings? The close up shot looks like wound ones.
Edit - you call it out at the end 😁
put a set of these on my cross bike 6 months ago . big improvement over the TRP spyres .
Great review!
same issue with the cable routing on a Felt road frame. Had to cut it short and bend it to make sure it wouldn't wear out paint on the frame. Brakes work well otherwise though!
Would you consider testing any high-end mechanical disc calipers, like the Paul "Klamper" (California, USA)? ...or the Growtac "Equal" (Tokyo, Japan)?
Your Foil is enjoying the variety, spice of life type stuff 😂
the cable routing I had the same issue with the ZRace. Wasn't able to get a nice cable angle.
I have a set of this and they are AMAZING (for cable actuated brakes) after replacing the stock pads with some discobrake pads.
I replaced a set of TRP spyres with this, and they are much much much better.
Stock pads are not so nice, with better pads it gets "closer" to hydraulics, never on same league, but much closer and more than enough braking.
Nice to see you also liked them !
hows the brake holding up? I read a lot of feedbacks that it breaks after x miles kinda disposable is it true?
@@scrumartist5630 so far so good.
But I still haven't gone through a set of pads. (Almost there now).
I also have the GT-F on another bike and the performance is real good. Hope they last.
@@PauloSerra that is good to hear, will definitely go that route once my mech brakes need replacing, but so far, a well bedded disk + replaced stock pads with shimano ones give me all the stopping power I need so far
Which disco pads are you using?
@@WordupG Copper-Free compound, I find they have great performance !
Shimano XTR / XT / SLX / LX - Copper-Free Compound OBE-DS04FG
Excellent video. I'm getting on my disc bike now, and thinking about the way forward. My question is just: Which mechanical disc brake would be similar to my current v brakes? Then, which system is superior to the best possible v brake? And, the last doubt, because never and never a mixed mechanical system will be superior to the hydraulic?
I ride these in blue on my gravel bike and can confirm that once bedded in they are even better. And compressionless housing made a difference too. I really like them!
Blue = better braking 👀
@@Cade_Media because _science_
The F1 are the old model, the new are the gt with four piston instead of two. Have them on my gravelbike and very satisfied with them.
likewise. with compressionless cables they feel great.
@@juanpecan7089 anyone tried long apline descent? do they fade?
I've always been a fan of cheap alternatives, solutions, diy, etc...
Because i'm not rich and i'm not sponsored, so i can't afford all that fancy 2000$ gear and 20000$ bike ;)
I can save up for a 1000$ bike over a few years but that's about it.
Nice vid! Keep it up!
HI there. Great video. In my case if I want to switch from rim brakes to a disc. I only need to buy these Juin-Tech 4piston (GT) and a disc brake specific road frame. Cuz everything else I have on the bike I'm using now will be swapped to the new frame.
FINALLY!!!
THANKS MAN!!
Doh, I just ordered a pair of the TRP hyd brakes as I had the mechanical ones and they weren't that bad but didn't know about the Juin ones. The Nutts must of made descending Stwlan Dam a bit sketchy.
Great Video!
I would love to see your review of some carbon wheels. Brands like elitewheels or ICAN for example. Cheers
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on how full mechanical disc brake calipers compare to hybrid ones. For example, mech disc calipers from one of the 3 mainstream groupset brands vs Ali express ones vs boutique ones like Paul klampers
Paul Klamper perform brilliantly but so does an Avid BB5, just better quality control as cable actuated brakes have a habit of the pads not sitting 100% straight unlike hydraulic
upgraded my cyclocross bike from TRP spyre to these juin brakes and i found a big difference . way more stopping power .
@@timbarlow5139 the Spyre were terrible brakes, the fact it use two spring on both side make it noticeably harder to pull than a single actuated brakes, it’s just more convenient to have both side actuates, that’s it.
I did'n have much luck with the ZRace calipers. Interesting to see if these are better. I found the Zrace ones ok on most rides. But on long decents in Italy they really let me down and became dangerous.
those brake is crazy good, i have been using them for 2 years
Have you considered a possible difference in actual cables? One might stretch more than the other giving you a less direct response in the break action. Just wondering...
Would like to see cheap cassette alternatives. I’ve got an SROAD cassette to try in place of an SRAM cassette. 250g lighter but same price. Need to see if shifting is compromised and what longevity is like…
Alexipress compressionless cableset?
The very best in my experience is the Yokozuna Reaction which is 100% compression-less unlike the kevlar stuff from Jagwire, I end up running Avid BB5 road and perform as good if not better than my sram and shimano hydraulic.
I wonder if there’s an alexipress version of that Yokozuna to match the Juintech?
Maybe a video of juintech and how much can you go to make it feel as good as proper hydraulic system? (Sintered pads, magura rotor, proper cableset etc.)
Trp Hyd brakes cook on long alpine decents where you are slowing down more than just braking. I think the problem is the reservoir holds the heat too much. Normal mech are not affected as much
Very hard to imagine bicycle brake (fluid?) cooking with all exposed brake parts, unlike in e.g. cars where the reservoir is in engine bay. I believe the reservoir is in the handles, wouldn’t you burn your hands if it was about reservoir (oil boils at over 200C), even water would be 100C. What are they using as a brake fluid?
Edit: watched the video and learned the reservoir is in the caliber, my bad, but it’s still hard to believe the oil with >260C boiling point would cook (unless it’s not oil)
@@siffoine I think it could be the case of being closed small space with only small amount of fluid in the system, since reservoir and everything is in the brake caliper itself and brakes can get very hot if you do realllllllly long descents. 5ml of oil gets hot faster and easier than 500ml, to exaggerate the point.
@@makkomise mineral oil’s boiling point is above ignition temperature of paper (and well above boiling point of water). One would immediately burn themselves touching the caliber. I doubt that is the case, no matter how small amount of liquid.. but I could imagine a situation where the fluid was not actually oil, but e.g. mostly water which boils at low temperatures at altitude. That would not be unimaginable, water tends to find its way everywhere unintentionally and even intentionally if it helps to cut costs. That or it’s just brake fade, which has other causes than “cooking”.
@@siffoine I know from experience that you will burn yourself to disc caliber after descent if you go touching that :D How hot they can actually get, that i don't know but i'd imagine there's some experiments on that. Of course, water seeping everywhere wouldn't be very surprising either.
What frame is that I like that colour .....keep up the good work awesome video mate
Maybe can try mating those 4 piston hydraulic calipers to your hyrdaulic system? There's the Meroca MT420 which are cheap! And ZTTO has one too.
5:37 you may be better with Aligator/Nokon cabling.. These are modular outers so are far better suited to tight radiuses. But yes, you are correct, pish poor cable routing by a big bike brand.
Can you elaborate some more how these compare to high end dura-ace or sram hydro calipers?
Is the level pull harder on these? You said you can lock them out as well, so it seems like the top end braking power is comparable.
Have F1 from amazon, paired with my Force Etap group... force hydro group was impossible to find
Not on the Scott as it is disc brake... But would love to know more about the G4 EE brakes like on your friend's bike. Thank u.
lightweight Aliexpress carbon works bottle cages... do they last and do they hold a bottle well enough? Worth a test right?
wonder how much difference you would have seen if you had swapped the pads on the nutt calipers to say noah and theo ceramic ones.
Sensah SRX 1x groupset would be interesting. It may be worthy of fitting it to my winter bike..
i have it on my gravel bike, its pretty good so far
I have one on my gravel and its pretty good, just waiting for them to implement it with clutch and its an end game for me.
Juintech F1 are great!
Good video. Ali express power meter? Safer than Ali brakes I'd like to think!
I just expect cable actuated and cable/hydraulic integrated disc brakes to keep improving. There's plenty of opportunity for innovative small brands in this space. If I were doing a build today or in the future, I would definitely go down this product path. I do hear over and over again that compression-less housing is a must have for cabled disc brakes of any flavor, but don't have any direct experience. Yet.
I have some compressionless housing here. I'm putting off testing it on this bike though as the internal routing is such a massive job...
@@Cade_Media I can imagine. The thought of the internal routing on my older road bike makes me cringe, so off the LBS for that job. The all rounder bike is externally routed - a solid reason for the selection of that model - happy days! Of course I'm not racing and speed is not that much of a factor any longer. 😉 #aerogains #pffffffffft
Tektro is a good brake system. Hydro and cable.
What about all those interchangeable parts like seat post and stems. Maybe they even have power meters
They are very good. Much easier to maintain for the typical experienced cyclist/self-trained home mech.
if youre running a hydraulic brake do you need to change the shifter to a rim brake shifter in order to use this brake?
Juin Tech or TRP HY/RD cable actuated hydro brakes are really good - not quite as good as
full hydro - but way way way better than mechanical disc brakes. I used TRP for a long time before going full hydro >___>
Your comment at 1:02 feels like a personal attack tho - lol
I'd be interested to see how they compare with your experience of using conventional dual pivot brakes. I could imagine someone with a mechanical groupset who might want to upgrade the brakes might be interested.
Significantly stronger than pure mechanical calipers I've tried in the past - but yet to take them on any long descents so can't comment on heat build up.
I suppose a lot of it will depend on where you live/plan to ride too
Had these sold them on. Not much better than the cheaper zoom brand. If you want a better alternative use the TRP hyrd up front and the spyre or Shimano mechanical up the bank. Use the compressionless housing too
Can we look at more frames or carbon wheels off AliExpress? Im a poor college student trying to build a budget/intro race bike
I have a Rim Brake TCR sl and switched the fork to a disc TCR fork and used this Juin tech brake. Best of both worlds! P.S The best part about the F1 brakes is how easy they are to bleed and service, and how cheap the replacement pads are.
have you done long descent? do they fade?
@@expectedlobster Just did Col de La Madone yesterday, it was great! I weigh 82kg and had no issue stopping.
mate its all about the Juin Tech GTs they are really good.
‘Better than rim brakes’ how dare you! Haha!
Were you using compression less housing? Ah now I see. The trp spyre suck without this housing.
As something to test, how about the Sensah SRX gravel specific groupo...
I found that they very much may need to be bled. Maybe I just got a bad pair, but I had to bleed them immediately after installing because the pistons wouldn't fully recess. They were much, much better after bleeding and they stopped rubbing completely. I bought two pairs and only one had this issue.
My experience with the performance of these brakes is that they work amazingly well on my gf's bike that doesn't have full internal routing and doesn't have a super tight bend at the caliper end. On my bike (with full internal routing and the weird bend at the end) the performance just wasn't there.
I'll definitely use them again some day, just not on a frame with full internal routing.
I bought a pair of these brakes and have this issue, The Rear brake seems to be fine, But the front one needs a bleed, do you remember by any chance what was the color of the oíl inside them? (I know its mineral oíl, But some people say they have Green oíl, And I have the regular red shimano oíl at home, so i would have to make a full bleed to get rid of the stock one and dont mix them)
@@MrBubba3494 oh man that bike is long gone and I’m not 100% sure what it was. I think it was the green stuff? I think I used green Finish Line oil. Either way, you should be able to mix mineral oils without issue. They’re basically the same.
I have tried juin tech m1's and the much cheaper knockoff's and there is big difference. Juin tech makes an excellent product.
Would you recommend the spongey nutts?
What is best, the Juin rotors or the Stam avid from apex group?
Hi Francis. Any suggestions for a good performing rim brake ? Trying to make an old road bike frame into a go anywhere gravel bike using regular shifter/brake levers.
I've upgraded a few old frames and the basic Tektro 359 / 369 (depending on drop you need) are pretty good, better than the Nutt cable operated 2 piston discs anyway.
I think you should compare against TRP HY/RD
I had a set of these. They were good until one calliper completely lost power .. anyone have any servicing instructions?
Have you got the Zrace calipers yet?
try
br05 from oniril , also from china.
many says it is very close to 7020 brake
Maybe test a couple mtb aliexpress products? (forks, rear shocks, etc.)
I have a set of xteck cable hydros. Red hb-100
How are the Juin tech F1 brakes doing after 9 months of use? Cheers
Would you have mechanical disc over rim brakes, taking everything into account like weight, wet weather, carbon rims etc
Really good question. Before experiencing these hybrid style systems (hydraulic reservoir in the caliper) then I would have said rim.
But now these make it a much harder choice.
I am considering an OG-Evkin handlebar and stem. They appear to be a legit company but I cannot find any in depth reviews of the company or their products.
Those NUTT brakes look a bit like the TRP Sphyre but are they comparable? And by that I mean do both the pistons move?
I can't say whether NUTT are comparable in performance to Spyre, but yes, both pistons move.
I've fitted these to a few customers bikes with mechanical disc brake, they're the best of a bad bunch. Low compression housing and changing the pad compound makes a difference definitely good economical upgrade .
hi can still use 140mm rotor for this caliper
Can you try Team pro Shifters with Ltwoo RD?
I would be interested in how big a difference compression-less cable housings make.
Lots of difference to the feel. Compressionless housing feels much more positive, especially for bikes with full length cable housing. That feeling of the rear brake being significantly more squishy feeling is gone. However, routing can be problematic on internally routed frames with tight bends as the housing is so stiff compared to standard brake housing.
I need a opinion about juin tech brand for my road bike, which is have better stopping power compare F1 and GT? Coz i was plan for change my brake kit into this brand, thx guys
Bro you should try the growtac equal, full mechanical calipers
Second this, Growtac Equal been getting pretty good reviews so far and would love to see how it performs with the kind of riding you’re doing. Although it’s pricing is on par to a Paul Klampers
@@Kelvin_c nah klampers are $245 per caliper whereas equals are $350 paired.
carbon fiber fork long term review would be nice to watch
I get what you mean , from rim brake to hydraulic it was much better braking and i get used to it. Then i bought used road bike with mechanical disc brake and after 1st ride i was very worried about my safety .
Most mechanical disc is junk, I've tried lots of them and they just don't compare to hydraulic. I find my dura ace old rim brakes brake far better than non hydraulic disc. The cables stretch rendering the cable calipers be not delivering enough leverage. Cable disc requires the cable and housing to be at peak tension.
@@glennoc8585 agreed , my 105 rim brake better than mechanical disc brake
but cable stretch is an issue of any cable operated system though,and that includes rim brakes
Are you comparing 4pot hydraulics with 2pot.
Try some pedals - I've had good experience with MZYRH brand
why no the juin tech gt4s?
Great overview, but aren't Juin Tech made in Taiwan not China? Everything I've read says Taiwan as place of manufacture.
Hey man- Could you try out the Magene crank power meter?
I've got the Magene don't waste your money. The batteries don't hold charge for long which is a pita.
Veddy good veddy cheep
im 6'3". what size frame do i need?
I am running these since a couple years. I strongly advise using other discs and pads, and using compressionless housing, which will require jagwire POP ferrules to reduce diameter going into the callipers. Compressionless works better, stock discs somehow underperform, stock pads won’t last long anyway. I suggest running semi metallic too. The one bothering thing with these brakes is that they don’t have a full pads thickness worth of travel so you will throw away pads that still have half their life left in…