Awesome tutorial! Regardless if the Y axis or X axis is generally forward in other programs etc. If you extrude/scale the cube on the Y axis then you press 1 for front view you will see the shorter end so you are correct about it being Y being in front.
Started to have a go at creating the model so I can learn the brick effect using you tile effect. Great tutorial thanks for sharing the techniques and great for helping beginners in blender.👍
@@ArtisansofVaul Yes I had watched that one previously and thought it best to start from the first few videos and follow along doing what you are doing. The results are looking good. I have used Blender for Figures manipulation and some other things, but wanted to get more experienced with it.
The staggered spacing between the tile rows is out by half of the gap between tiles. So the constant offset for X should be 5.25mm instead of 5.0mm. The spacing between the tiles on the Y axis is 0.25 instead of 0.5mm, as the constant offset "Y" is set to 0.5 instead of 1.0.
No it's the whole person it's just for a smaller scale game. But you could make the cylinder whatever size represents a model in the game you play, it's just an example.
OK. So is the answer... That the scale for the tiles was not "applied"? This is something I did not know how to do, and has annoyed me a few times so worth knowing 😀
On the topic of units, I have been having this problem with a model I am working on. I am modelling a real world vehicle with a length of 3.5m, and it is modelled at 1:1 scale in blender based off the blender measurements in meters. I would like to print at 1/48 scale which is a length of 72.9 mm. How would I scale my model in blender so it imports to the slicer at this length? Or would it just be better to scale in the slicer after the STL export? Do both methods achieve the same resolution at the scaled size?
So if you haven't changed anything in the Blender settings (you have just been going for it in meters as the standard setting) when you export this it will use the Blender units (in this instance you believe 1 unit = 1m) but it will treat it as 1 unit = 1mm. So at the moment you have modelled it at 3.5 units, which will mean its currently 3.5mm. So you can export it and then scale it up to your desired length (if you at its 72.9mm then something like 2083%). Alternatively you can scale it in Blender before you export by 20.83 times.
I should preface this with saying I'm a Geography teacher in "real life" so have clear biases. I found when I used it IPA still cleaned it better and the idea that the excess resin is going to get washed down a sink is rather concerning. Also I find that IPA will evaporate is a bonus. But then it is an extra cost to get the IPA. I trust the IPA resin more but I use it as standard...
@@ArtisansofVaul Makes sense, however I will state that even on the instructions it says to under no circumstances wash used resin water down the drain. I've been using it for a few months and I've just been putting it in a large open vat and having it sit in the sun for the water to evaporate and leftover resin to cure.
@@ArtisansofVaul As far as cleanup goes I need to make use of an old toothbrush to get all the resin off, setting it in the washer for a few minutes really doesn't get it all. I do use a super small amount of Mineral Spirits to get the detail areas also. However depending on how much printing you do you'll end up with a large amount of leftover resin water, hints the reason why I keep a large open container on hand and might get another. I mean ye it is cheaper overall than keeping a store of IPA, but it does take up space.
These tutorials are excellent, but there's no getting around the fact that Blender is quite painfully complicated, impossible even, without studying tutorials for every step and function. I think it was designed with experts and Linux users in mind. It's a shame there's not a simplified version; I gave Blender For Artists a try, but if anything is even more awkward because the text/buttons can only be slightly enlarged (it's very hard on the eyes for those of us with less than perfect eyesight). The Blender experience is definitely improved by having an extra-large screen. Maybe I'll come back to it later, but right now I am defeated by Blender.
That's a shame. It is undoubtedly complex but I think that stems from just how much you can do on the program so it requires that complexity. And it definitely does take time and practice but the muscle memory of what to click and the knowledge of what tools to use does develop over time.
Thanks for the link. Can't wait to follow along when I get home.
No problem. Hope it's helpful
Thanks for these videos.
Glad they are helpful. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment 😁👍🏻
Awesome tutorial! Regardless if the Y axis or X axis is generally forward in other programs etc. If you extrude/scale the cube on the Y axis then you press 1 for front view you will see the shorter end so you are correct about it being Y being in front.
Well that's good to know 😅 Thanks man
Started to have a go at creating the model so I can learn the brick effect using you tile effect. Great tutorial thanks for sharing the techniques and great for helping beginners in blender.👍
No problem and hope it goes well. Just so you know you can also "cheat" making bricks using this: czcams.com/video/SomEVY5qG0M/video.html
@@ArtisansofVaul Yes I had watched that one previously and thought it best to start from the first few videos and follow along doing what you are doing. The results are looking good. I have used Blender for Figures manipulation and some other things, but wanted to get more experienced with it.
@@modelrailwaytheeasyway9743 Oh cool, that's a great idea as knowing how to do it yourself is important as it gives you much more control 👍🏻
Thx again :P
No worries 👍 😁
The staggered spacing between the tile rows is out by half of the gap between tiles. So the constant offset for X should be 5.25mm instead of 5.0mm. The spacing between the tiles on the Y axis is 0.25 instead of 0.5mm, as the constant offset "Y" is set to 0.5 instead of 1.0.
Dead on. Unfortunately Chris got in there first but good detail on the issue.
@@ArtisansofVaul All good, waiting on part 2 so I can finish the bases :)
hi, i don't get your cylinder as the size of a person.
is it the size of a head?
No it's the whole person it's just for a smaller scale game. But you could make the cylinder whatever size represents a model in the game you play, it's just an example.
OK. So is the answer...
That the scale for the tiles was not "applied"? This is something I did not know how to do, and has annoyed me a few times so worth knowing 😀
Great job! I wasn't expecting anyone to get it so quickly. If you drop me a message on CG Trader or on Instagram I can get your voucher to you.
@@ArtisansofVaul dropped you a message on Instagram
no idea why, but when doing my constant offset 0.5 is a huge gap. unsure what i did wrong here - dont worry forgot to apply scale lol.
Legend. Well done on solving that! 👌👍🏻
Your off set bricks are not centered to the previous row. You didn't account for the gap between the bricks
Pretty good spot. I hadnt considered that and it's a fair point. Probably not the hugest issue at the scale but it is a fair point for sure
On the topic of units, I have been having this problem with a model I am working on. I am modelling a real world vehicle with a length of 3.5m, and it is modelled at 1:1 scale in blender based off the blender measurements in meters. I would like to print at 1/48 scale which is a length of 72.9 mm. How would I scale my model in blender so it imports to the slicer at this length? Or would it just be better to scale in the slicer after the STL export? Do both methods achieve the same resolution at the scaled size?
So if you haven't changed anything in the Blender settings (you have just been going for it in meters as the standard setting) when you export this it will use the Blender units (in this instance you believe 1 unit = 1m) but it will treat it as 1 unit = 1mm. So at the moment you have modelled it at 3.5 units, which will mean its currently 3.5mm. So you can export it and then scale it up to your desired length (if you at its 72.9mm then something like 2083%). Alternatively you can scale it in Blender before you export by 20.83 times.
@@ArtisansofVaul Thank you! That was just what I needed. Your channel has been extremely helpful!
@@TAG-31 No problem. Let me know how it turns out!
What is your experience with water washable resin, if youve had an any with it?
I should preface this with saying I'm a Geography teacher in "real life" so have clear biases. I found when I used it IPA still cleaned it better and the idea that the excess resin is going to get washed down a sink is rather concerning. Also I find that IPA will evaporate is a bonus. But then it is an extra cost to get the IPA. I trust the IPA resin more but I use it as standard...
@@ArtisansofVaul Makes sense, however I will state that even on the instructions it says to under no circumstances wash used resin water down the drain. I've been using it for a few months and I've just been putting it in a large open vat and having it sit in the sun for the water to evaporate and leftover resin to cure.
@@yourfriendlyneighborhoodla2091 That's great to hear that people are being responsible with it. So how are you finding it?
@@ArtisansofVaul As far as cleanup goes I need to make use of an old toothbrush to get all the resin off, setting it in the washer for a few minutes really doesn't get it all. I do use a super small amount of Mineral Spirits to get the detail areas also.
However depending on how much printing you do you'll end up with a large amount of leftover resin water, hints the reason why I keep a large open container on hand and might get another. I mean ye it is cheaper overall than keeping a store of IPA, but it does take up space.
These tutorials are excellent, but there's no getting around the fact that Blender is quite painfully complicated, impossible even, without studying tutorials for every step and function. I think it was designed with experts and Linux users in mind.
It's a shame there's not a simplified version; I gave Blender For Artists a try, but if anything is even more awkward because the text/buttons can only be slightly enlarged (it's very hard on the eyes for those of us with less than perfect eyesight). The Blender experience is definitely improved by having an extra-large screen.
Maybe I'll come back to it later, but right now I am defeated by Blender.
That's a shame. It is undoubtedly complex but I think that stems from just how much you can do on the program so it requires that complexity. And it definitely does take time and practice but the muscle memory of what to click and the knowledge of what tools to use does develop over time.