MOVEMENT LAB #1 | Worldcup Insight
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- čas přidán 3. 04. 2024
- We had the idea to set special boulders from the boulder worldcup circuit so that Alex and Chris can prepare for the upcoming season. For Alex, this year is all about securing a ticket for the Olympic Summer Games in Paris. In this series, we will try to set a unique move or boulder each time and share our thoughts with you. Please write your opinions on the boulders in the comments. Any criticism that is inappropriate will be ignored, as always. Thank you.
Edit: Chris Hanke - Sport
Personally, I think this is one of the most interesting video you guys have done. Finger strength and stretching are very good, but at the end of the day, modern climbing is about movement. I agree that the boulders should at least be safe, even if they don't feel like it. Those are not one in the same, which maybe doesn't get talked about very much. It's also interesting how body morphology and strengths play into how we move. I quite like the comparison format, as you can see how these differences lead to different outcomes. As a shorter climber, dynamic jumps always far, but when I watch bigger people do them, it doesn't look so hard. The paradox is that as a shorter climber, I often have to use a more dynamic, powerful style to reach holds that are static for taller climbers.
I don't agree
The movement word 🤮🤮🤮🤮
Chris ist wirklich ein selten schöner Schildkrötenman :-)
Das wird ihn freuen!
Fehlt noch die Sonnenbrille, die Hängematte und das Ero-Heftchen :)
oh ya and on the bicep, chris biceps look beefer, but alex has like a dual lump bicep. its like the bicep has its own bicep? training for lifeee
We both take that as a compliment 😂
I mostly agree with Chris here. While I do think this style of setting leads to good separation in competitions, the risk potential is sometimes just too high. I'm not saying that this isn't climbing anymore, because in my opinion, it is, and I quite enjoy it here and there tbh. I just hope that the setting will continue to include different styles and not just push the "jumpy" stuff into a more dangerous manner.
And also... great video! Felt like 5 minutes haha
Risk is a part of climbing but the athletes are the main asset of climbing competitions and it doesn't benefit anybody to hurt them or cause injuries.
It also doesn't make any sense to make climbers be not climbers. I get that this is still climbing up a wall, but as you stray further from the sport you're selecting more skills that are not relevant to climbing. As an exaggerated example, it wouldn't make sense if a climber had to do a do a backflip before every attempt, you would get a lot of sloppily executed backflips that aren't that impressive to watch and injuries. I'd rather watch gymnasts do backflips and climbers climb not vice versa.
I'm also not wholly against this style, but just building on your point a bit.
I think an underrated aspect of the "easier to select" argument is that these tricky, risky boulders are also easier to set.
It is hard to set power boulders that are not either or (either you can do it and flash or you can't), so if you get the level wrong either everybody does it or nobody does. Plus, it is just hard as a setter to be in the kind of shape the competitors are, there is just too much non-climbing labor involved in setting, so it requires careful extrapolation from setters.
In contrast, tricky stuff can be worked out over a few minutes. Plus, setters can actually do it, because having an hour to work the moves goes such a long way on tricky (but not necessarily super hard physically) boulders.
As the physical gap between competitors and setters widens, this might only get more pronounced.
Or, you know, we could just bring in Daniel Woods and have him set something static and heinous every now and then.
All very good and valid points. Setting a risky jump is easier to select people than setting a hard physical boulder where the level needs to be just right.
I hope in the future there will be not only setters to set but also paid testers who maybe don't want to compete 😅. That would be ideal. Then hard physical boulder would be an option again
@@alexandermegos8129What do you mean with “select people”?
@@chrillabbe to rate (select) them in a competition they must have different scores
I feel competition climbing has evolved into a very interesting sport. As a viewer I love watching Tomoa sending a crazy paddle dyno move or Mejdi floating up a dynamic style boulder. The comp style dynamic moves are fun to watch, and they look impressive even if you don't know anything about climbing.
But as a competitor I have felt that the focus on the dynamic moves is a bit too much. I have always enjoyed the variety that you get from climbing, there are lots of different styles and types of climbing. I would personally like to see more low percentage, delicate slab climbing or more 3D types of moves where you have to move around volumes. I would also love to see some more crack climbing introduced into the competition scene, as well as some good old school crimpy climbs.
Ultimately though I think the most important thing would be to find a good balance to showcase all the different types of climbing.
Agreed. It will always come down to working towards more diverse styles to make it interesting. Hopefully some of the old school styles will be reintroduced a little more again in the future
It's really nice to watch you guys fool around while coming up with serious training boulders. Your humor is amazing!
In terms of the competition climbing I'd personally enjoy fewer parcour style boulders. For sure, a dynamic jump with a sketchy landing is cool to see for the broad audience. But so would be some tricky moves that enforce 3D movements, feet fist etc. in my opinion.
A little swing and catch move should also be fine, as long as there's no risky landing on a tiny foothold involved, which if you miss it or hit it wrongly either shaves your shin or twists your ankle. 😅
9:18 i did not expect that, i guess it is a legal moove in a comp.
I clicked so fast I didn't even see the thumbnail
Ich brauch unbedingt viel mehr davon
obviously brauch ich viel mehr von dem biceps
Da kommt noch mehr 😉. Und wir curlen schon fleißig
@@alexandermegos8129 ich meinte für mich 😭
I would love to see more basic power boulders in world cup competitions and the upcoming olympics. It's not even that the new school comp style isn't fun but I feel the current trend is too focused on who's the best at co-ordination moves vs who can climb the hardest boulders.
23:55 "is this climbing anymore" - good question. probably asked a lot. not fun for the climber but good for red bull and other energy drink sponsors... all they care for is a sport that looks spectacular and is good for merchandising. I know it has benefits for the sport, too and I acknowledge that.
Great video thanks, I fully agree with Chris & Alex that current comp (WC level especially) setting is not finding the ‘best overall climber’ but more about showy parkour type movements (that depend a lot on luck when you only have 4 mins) and which can be dangerous.
PS: Alex rocks those Dad shorts
Dad shorts? 😂 I'm the trend setter! Who doesn't like flying fish on their shorts?
Wirklich ein tolles und informatives Video Alex. Danke! Gerne mehr davon!
23:07 “ALTAAAA” such satisfaction, love the feeling ✨
You guys are half gods!
I really like this series of videos. Also really appreciate it when you talk about fear as it’s something I personally also struggle a lot with in the comp style boulders.
About route setting in comp climbing, I have mixed feelings too. These kind of movements are nice to watch, but have very little to do with actual climbing. I think nowadays there is an abuse of non friction holds and I’m not sure that’s the safest nor the fairest to the climbers, as it puts a lot more value on your skin conditions and mental game than anything else.
Thanks for the video! More of this bitte!
Coolest gymowners ever doing their thing. Ich mag euer Kauderwelsch ;) 22:55 echt jetzt?! 23:25 Exactly my point. Too risky. Die Mischung macht's. Gutes Video 👍.
You guys are actual half-gods...chris maybe a little bit more then half
Sehe es ähnlich wie Alex. Ein Mix sollte für den Sport am besten sein. Man merkt schon alleine daran welches Bild bei Leuten im Kopf ensteht bei dem Begriff "Comp Style" bouldering. Ich denke aber auch, dass für die Entwicklung des Sports im allgemeinen dieser Parkourartige boulderstil wichtig ist , da es für die Zuschauer sehr Unterhaltsam ist. Allerdings sollten die Schrauber meiner Meinung nach in erster Linie die Sicherheit und den Spaß der Athleten im Blick haben, denn wenn die Athleten keinen Spaß an dem haben was sie tun, werden früher oder später alle darunter leiden.
Lieb die Energie die Ihr immer in den Videos mitbringt, mal wieder ein gelungenes Video! :)
You guys are semi gods to me
super video, really looking forward to this series! Keep up the great work!
14:35 "mir tun richtig die Zehen weh, man". 10 Sekunden später direkt wieder rein in die engen Sadomasolatschen 😅
Asooo, fürs Klettern und Bouldern braucht man eine masochistische Veranlagung... jetzt ergibt das auch alles Sinn
No pain no gain 😂
17:05 - "He can visualize movement very good".
Maybe it's because he sees better without safety glasses 🤔
Great video! Was going to say I'm not a fan of high risk setting then I remembered "there is no excuses, only weakness"
Wenn du eigentlich schon schlafen gehen willst, weil du Kopfschmerzen hast und dann lädt Aex ein Video mit Chris hoch....
😮
😢
😊
Besser als jede Schmerztablette😂
Ibu 1000 😂
If you have any bad comments don’t write them, we don’t want to read them…best ending ever
Us Germans, always so direct 😂
Love the video, I think there huge potential for the series !
Netflix actually just signed a contract with us. 3 seasons 12 episodes each. 😉👌🏼
love to see it
Such an interesting video! Can’t wait for the next one
This isn’t climbing, this is a comedy show!😂 Very funny guys!🍺
A comp climb must not test an athlete’s *reasonable* fear of getting injured. Period.
suns out guns out boysss! i feel comp climbing became like a high risk high reward at the expense of the climber. i mean dual tex cant be seen on the tv or to the layman viewer. So to get those nice moves out of climbers don't have to be done at the expense of a bleeding shin or broken toe. I guess route setters should look at this and get those money shot moves out without injuring the athletes. keep it guys!
ich finde die Idee super. Super starke Leute an indoor/comp bouldern bzw. sogar geziellt für weltcups üben zu sehen, gibts kaum. Ich als indoor kind find es sehr spannend. gern mehr davon :)
Die Videos von Toby Roberts sind auch sehr gut
@@begga9682 witzig, dass du das sagst. das letzte von seiner reise nach japan fand ich auch super spannend.
Very cool video. More of that please!❤
Both biceps are cool in their own way, I wouldn’t compare them❤
Regarding low % moves and comp setting: it would be really interesting if they start mixing styles within a boulder. Now it's like one is a slab another is a dyno and another is a power problem. But that just makes different people top different boulders. It would be interesting to see what happens when styles are combined and you have to switch mindset between moves.
I think it is a good idear to sometimes change the juggs to mix it up or put something on to jump around. I love the indight in to the prefesional climbing world.
You raise some really good points, but one thing I was asking myself was this: could this also be a generational thing? Not saying you’re old, but both of you guys grew up with a very different climbing style. What about the young guns? How do the Mejdis, Maxs and the Soratos feel about this? It would be really interesting to hear their opinions. (Awesome video guys really enjoyed watching this 🔥)
really enjoyed this video!
Que buen video, estaba muy entretenido y siempre me rio con las bromas que hacen, muy buenos boulders porcierto 🤙🤙🤙
I am just commenting to congratulate Chris on the sneaky engagement farming :D :D
great discussion!
As the creator of America’s first climbing wall for the general public! You guys are all over it!!!!
Alex, you are such a likeable character. (Edit: both of you) Keep it up! When is your next comp?
Chris is actually competing at the first lead world cup in China next week and I'll be competing at the Boulderbundesliga tomorrow 😂😅
3:28 is brilliant 🤣
eure Meinung über derzeitige comp styles ist sehr spannend zu hören!
einfach sympathisch =)
They've been setting some scary stuff in comps recently, pretty high up on the walls too usually. I mean climbing is an inherently dangerous sport but I fear for ankles
When people say "comp style" and they mean the dynamic jumpy scary stuff, i kinda disagree. I still usually see in comps one slab, one really powerful boulder, and yes also one dynamic one but IMO in comps its still a varied mix of styles. Maybe people notice the dynamic part more because they usually avoid those kind of climbs or dont like them?
Bin ich der Einzige, der sich bei „wie viele Schrauben sind da drin…“ und dem felgenden Dialog kaputt gelacht hat?
Immer genug Schrauben 😅
My view on setting style is that setters need to be very careful about what attributes in the athletes the boulders are testing. Just because "It does a good job of creating separation in the field" does not mean that it tests climbing ability or even that it's fun to watch. For example, I think setting pure flexibility boulders is completely boring. I recall two situations, one with Simon Lorenzi climbing and the other with a Japanese climber (sorry, forgot his name) climbing. These two athletes simply lacked the flexibility to necessary to achieve the move. Each case was a painful 4 minutes to watch as they made no progress and there did not seem to be any alternative beta. I found it especially boring because I am naturally flexible, and could easily imagine myself doing the move if I were just a little stronger. Simon and the Japanese fellow clearly had no chance, tho, due to limited flexibility, something that has a very large genetic component but does not correlate very strongly with climbing ability. I believe that setters need to avoid the temptation to select based on attributes that vary a lot between athletes (thus creating "separation") but that have little to do with general climbing ability.
boa hörma jung! ihr seid doch halbgötter eyyy
I would argue that competition sport is going in general in this direction. there are too many good athletes, most sports are growing and training techniques and nutrition is getting better and better. its a little bit like in the university (just way more extreme), one is studying hundreds of hours for a 15min test. tests/competitions have to develop somehow to grade fairly, otherwise those, who are best prepared for the test/competition will win and not those who are better over all.
Sleeping lion video still rules..:-)
Demigods, all of you :)
as a short person i will just say it's much easier for a short person to do a big move than for a tall person to get into a small box.
I know! I've been telling Chris all the time but he still complains 😂
Cool video, enjoyed it as much as I hated the sound... nah, I enjoyed it more, but hope you get the memo
outstanding video! would love to join in - even though I could probably hold none of these holds...
9:16 lmfao, I’m dying here
It's like how I feel climbing any v0 slab in joshua tree
Free solo 8c .. insist on safety glasses with a screw haha
hangboard power endurance video !!
Nice ilmango intro theme
Alex, when is your Altitude course going to be released? Hope Magnus hasn't made you sign NDAs.
Was für Halbgötter ich hab im dem video nur Götter gesehen… ;)
another great day
I agree that comp climbs are leaning too much to the jumpy/coordingation and low percentage stuff. It would be nice to see a better balance of climbing styles.
I personally don't like dual text holds/climbs where it's purely on the slick side that's used. I'm not climbing super polished slippery rock like that outdoors and Just not something I want to do indoors. I can't really feel like i'm getting a move down with that. For balancing moves give me a good slab with just small feet or something. I just don't feel like i enjoy spending the time on dual text or maybe I just haven't had an interesting problem set using it.
I have no idea, but Isnt there a problem with people being too strong on old school stuff?
I mean, you would also have to set ridiculously low percentage boulders in the classical style as well? Or am i totally wrong?
That might have used to be like that but nowadays there are actually huge differences in physical strength between world cup athletes because you don't actually need to be physically super strong anymore to do well at the comps.
What are the shoes Alex is wearing pls?
Its much harder to select with power because modern top level boulderers are all so insanely strong.
Ich will zwei Profikletterern wirklich nicht sagen wie sie ihr Ding tun sollen, aber da Schwingen schon länger im Parkour daheim ist, mach ichs mal trotzdem. Bei dem Lache ist es idr. sehr hilfreich auszuschultern d.h. einen arm länger an den Griffen lassen und nach hinten werfen. Das führt einerseits dazu, dass man noch weiter kommt und vor allem kann man dadurch leichter wieder in eime vertikale Körperpositiom rotieren.
Das mag für Parkour sicher zutreffen, allerdings gibt es hier ein bisschen mehr zu beachten. Richtig ist, je größer der Radius um so mehr Schwung kann ich generieren. Allerdings kommen hier zwei Faktoren hinzu: Die Wand im Rücken, die Beschaffenheit der zwei Griffe. Einmal kann ich nicht den maximal möglichen Schwung generieren, da ich einfach aus den Griffen herausrutschen würde, bzw. am langen Arm nicht mehr haltbar wären und wenn, so schwer zu halten, dass ich mehr mit Bremsen beschäftigt wäre, als sinnvoll Schwung zu generieren. Die Schwierigkeit bei solchen Bouldern besteht nicht darin, den Schwung an sich einzuleiten, sondern genau zu dosieren. D.h. die Richtung muss stimmen, weil eine minimale Abweichung schon scheitern bedeutet. Die Geschwindigkeit ist entscheidend und die Flugkurve. Je nachdem ob der Zieltritt glatt, abschüssig, positiv und andere Neigungseigenschaften hat muss die zusätzlich zur Richtung, die Geschwindigkeit und die Flugkurve stimmen. Deshalb leicht gebeugter Arm ;)
misters red, yellow, blue
Landing the dual tex upside foot first try was ridiculous
11:25 ohhh der arme Hold :(
In which Halle is this?
In THE Halle 😉
I wants some who loves climbing as much as a do who will let me dyno into there lap like Alex does
Super fun video 😊 I agree with much of what Chris said, but at the same time I feel like it is fun to push the sport in different and new ways. Unfortunately that comes at the cost of horrifying and uncomfortable moves for the climbers.
How do you guys feel about cracks being set in the world cup?
"legs" ;)
Bicep chiken
At this point, a scatter could become a comp climber
what´s a scatter?
Chris and Megos are using different feet. Chris the R and megos the L. Weird that they didnt realize that fact. I am always scared of these moves with respect to the risk for achilles rupture.
Chris almost broke his left toe in the beginning, so 🤣😏
first
I thought this was a climbing channel. Climbing content when?
You blind
how do i get pecs like you
Injure your finger and bench 5 times a week for 2 months. 😅 (also I'm genetically gifted 😂)
I like dynos - both watching and doing them
Ju ar haafgods
getting pinned by Alex Megos would make my day 😁
Should try setting training boulders similar to:
13:27 on pistol squat on left leg
26:21 on paddle dynos
from czcams.com/video/tGFxiVsGF9c/video.html
Enjoy!
Yup, Toby had great session in Japan. Alex and Chris should definitely watch it and even consider going to B-Pump Ogikubo.
Alex, good luck with getting the ticket the Olympics!
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