I found damaged flat hollow core doors are discounted at Home Depot. Glue a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF or plywood to them. They make agreat assembly table or portable work surface. They get beat up just glue on a new piece. Almost as good as a torsion box.
I’ve been using a 3/4” sheet of melamine as the top layer of my assembly table. Wood glue won’t stick to it and it’s easy to scrape up once it’s dried.
@@GarageMuzik I don't know where you live (and it's been a couple years) but you couldn't get construction grade for $35 a sheet, and that's neither particularly flat or AT ALL smooth. I'd be happy to see furniture grade plywood that cheap though...
Top tip for franks top tip fir the plastic, fold one end back on itself, you can then pull the plastic back as you go rubbing down the laminate rather than lifting the laminate up works a treat and i learnt it from a bloke called Pete 👍
I use a long (50') extension cord, cleaned and placed on the top of the surface in a back and forth S pattern. I then start at on end and press the laminate down, roll it firmly, and then begin the pull the cord out, 1 S at a time.
Just a tip...use white Plam. Doubles as an "erase board" I have measurements and notes written all over my white assembly/out-feed table. Erases with DA or lacquer thinner
I used to work in a high volume laminate cabinet shop. The *very best* way to hold contact cemented pieces apart while positioning is a clean round extension cord. You lay it back and forth over the substrate maybe 6” apart…the set the laminate on top of the cord. When ready to join start pulling the cord out as you press down. Big sheets use 2 cords and work from the middle out. This works 10x better than sticks, or slip sheets, or anything else I have ever used. I told Izzy Swan about it yrs ago - he has a video showing it or at least used to.
I've been doing laminate for 40 yrs the best thing about using cords is you can do any shape or size. dowels or blinds work ok but sometimes they are a pain to use.
Just a foot note, when you are trimming the edge of the Formica, keep an eye on the bearing on the router bit. It tends to collect the contact adhesive and will keep it from spinning freely. Also use a good file to flush the edge after you run the router.
I used the plastic trick whenever I was bringing two sheets of laminate together on a single plane because it is much easier to align. The first time I did it I transitioned to just using that method for laminating. That is until I noticed I was getting bubbles more often as air was prone to getting trapped. Not a difficult fix but was annoying enough I switched back to using dowls for the majority of my lamination. I only use the plastic where alignment is a higher priority. Definitely a handy trick to have in my holster though.
I’ll take the plastic sheet and trial it myself. However the choice of top, “cheapest material” not so much, it’s warped. You can see it in the trimming procedure
Awesome technique. I did the same thing, and it came out amazing! Love the look of flat black formika set against the dense plywood. Added some dog holes and👌🏽
Because they're overkill. As the first guy to post a torsion box on YouTUbe I'm certainly guilty of encouraging people to build them. :) But over the years I've realized they're totally unnecessary. But if you have the time, budget, and desire, no one can fault you for wanting the flattest surface possible.
I found damaged flat hollow core doors are discounted at Home Depot. Glue a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF or plywood to them. They make agreat assembly table or portable work surface. They get beat up just glue on a new piece. Almost as good as a torsion box.
I've laid miles of laminate in my time. I pull a long extension cord through a rag and loop it in waves. Lay the laminate on top of the cord to get your alignment and start at one end pulling the cord out as you press it down. Guaranty bubble free. Use particle core not plywood as a substrate. Plywood is susceptible to delamination and will telegraph the grain. When using waterborne contact take your fingernail and scratch the surface (outside the area being glued) If it skins up like pealing a sunburn , it's not ready yet. Get down at eye level and look across each glued surface and look for any particles that may have been picked up. Nothing worse then getting a bubble from a tiny wood particle.
Seems more like a craft table a having all those screws in the top would be a problem in a wood shop again my opinion - also did the laminate show the screws below once it was drawn down to the table surface?
I don't recommend the plastic sheet method for laying laminate. Can it be done? Yes, but you have to be VERY careful. Plastic tends to pick up a static charge. This can make sawdust stick to it. The last thing you want is trash getting stuck under your laminate, causing lumps.
Hi Marc. Did the solid wooden edges come with the second sheet (you know, the flat and cheap one) or the formica? I like how you roll......the formica 😂😂😂 You're welcome.
There is a much easier way no plastic no sticks. Start on the shorter side n roll the sheet over ur head. Then slowly let it fall down. Done it a million times when i did cabinet work🤙
Not to nit pick, but I’d put the top sheet face down then glue then the bottom sheet then screw it. I’d let it fully dry then remove the screws, then I’d flip it over and laminate the top. If those screws aren’t perfectly level with the surface of the ply those voids will get smashed, also, if for some reason you cut through the top with a saw you don’t want your blade hitting a screw.
They make 5 gallon spray tanks for that contact cement. It speeds up the process quite a bit. I also recommend a “PlASTI-CUT” file. It has a cutting edge where you can do essentially do the same thing as the router only by hand and you can get in tight areas and square off corners where the router can’t reach. It has a side for removing material and a side for finishing. They also make a wax you can apply to the router bits that helps with the adhesive gumming up the bearings.
I’m not sure if it’s important but shouldn’t you screw down the table from the center out? That way you push any trapped air pockets out. In the video it looks as though one guy started on the edge while the other started in the middle. Again if you saw the stuff I’ve built you’d still be laughing.
I don’t man it looks ok my opinion doesn’t matter just one of a few things I don’t care for is the screws and the Formica not sure what’s going on there
It's not drooping at all. 10" of overhang on the long edge and 12" of overhang on the short edge is definitely not sketchy when you're talking about a layup of two sheets of plywood with hardwood edging.
I don't understand the point of several layers of, what seems like, expensive materials. Throw a second layer of mdf for a sacrificial surface. Whatever.
I'm having a super hard time understanding what's happening with the plastic. They pull it out too fast. Wouldn't one sheet of plastic get glue on it from both sides?
Black tops are sexy, but white ones can be drawn on. In my experience, white melamine serves its intended shop purpose far long enough to yield a significant cost benefit compared to application of horizontal grade laminate.
Yeah I don’t draw on my tables. I have rolls of paper if I need to make large drawings, which has the added benefit of being movable or permanent if I need the drawing for something in the future, like a template. And because I film, black works out a lot better for me.
Can you elaborate on the secret source for sheet goods that are “flat and cheap”?
I’m still searching for that as well. I’ll let you know if I find it!
At this point it might as well be like the old speakeasys were. Gotta know somebody and have the password.
Not in this part of the world (Portugal).LOL
I found damaged flat hollow core doors are discounted at Home Depot. Glue a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF or plywood to them. They make agreat assembly table or portable work surface. They get beat up just glue on a new piece. Almost as good as a torsion box.
@@AnthonyStabler great idea though I really want to build some cabinets and I don’t think that’s going to cut it. :)
I’ve been using a 3/4” sheet of melamine as the top layer of my assembly table. Wood glue won’t stick to it and it’s easy to scrape up once it’s dried.
I use an 1/8" or 3/16" tempered masonite thats screwed down. If you mess it up, just unscrew it and put down a new one.
To me, that's the best way.
Same. When it gets destroyed just replace it with a new $30 sheet of melamine. When I'm using the track saw I just drop 1" foam sheet on there
"must be flat and cheap" uses $1000 worth of plywood
@@GarageMuzik I don't know where you live (and it's been a couple years) but you couldn't get construction grade for $35 a sheet, and that's neither particularly flat or AT ALL smooth. I'd be happy to see furniture grade plywood that cheap though...
That plastic bit is genius. I'll def be adding that to my book of tricks.
Top tip for franks top tip fir the plastic, fold one end back on itself, you can then pull the plastic back as you go rubbing down the laminate rather than lifting the laminate up works a treat and i learnt it from a bloke called Pete 👍
I've been really looking at doing my own laminate for a decent sized bar. Never tried it but that tip sounds like a gamebreaker
I use a long (50') extension cord, cleaned and placed on the top of the surface in a back and forth S pattern. I then start at on end and press the laminate down, roll it firmly, and then begin the pull the cord out, 1 S at a time.
Just a tip...use white Plam. Doubles as an "erase board" I have measurements and notes written all over my white assembly/out-feed table. Erases with DA or lacquer thinner
Grab some "dry erase" markers. Rubs off easily with a finger. (not the most durable, so be careful to not inadvertently rub off something important)
Come on Marc, your killin me. I go to all the trouble of building’ your “torsion box” assembly table and now your shortcut in me.
What?
@@ThekiBoranway back Marc did a video on a proper torsion box assembly table top, very impressive and quite involved process.
I used to work in a high volume laminate cabinet shop. The *very best* way to hold contact cemented pieces apart while positioning is a clean round extension cord. You lay it back and forth over the substrate maybe 6” apart…the set the laminate on top of the cord. When ready to join start pulling the cord out as you press down. Big sheets use 2 cords and work from the middle out. This works 10x better than sticks, or slip sheets, or anything else I have ever used. I told Izzy Swan about it yrs ago - he has a video showing it or at least used to.
Too smart. Thanks for sharing that. Champion
I've been doing laminate for 40 yrs the best thing about using cords is you can do any shape or size. dowels or blinds work ok but sometimes they are a pain to use.
I need to water my shop and hope it grows a bit wider and longer. Short of that happening I'll probably make a slightly smaller table..
00
I had a ford ranger and despite all the leaks the bed topper had, never grew an inch. So disappointing
@@miles11we did you fertilize it? I mulched the bed of my f150..Took a few days to empty it out into the yard..
@@martinoamello3017 shit I didn't even think of that at the time, I'll give it a shot next time
👍 An excellent bigger table made. Thank you very much for sharing.
Just a foot note, when you are trimming the edge of the Formica, keep an eye on the bearing on the router bit. It tends to collect the contact adhesive and will keep it from spinning freely. Also use a good file to flush the edge after you run the router.
I trim it with file first then use router)
I have been doing laminate for YEARS - I've NEVER seen this technique before! BRILLIANT!
I advise filling the screw holes before laminating or over time you will see their presence on the surface if not straight away.
I used the plastic trick whenever I was bringing two sheets of laminate together on a single plane because it is much easier to align. The first time I did it I transitioned to just using that method for laminating. That is until I noticed I was getting bubbles more often as air was prone to getting trapped. Not a difficult fix but was annoying enough I switched back to using dowls for the majority of my lamination. I only use the plastic where alignment is a higher priority. Definitely a handy trick to have in my holster though.
That looks so good! The plastic trick seems like it worked like [chef's kiss]!
I’ll take the plastic sheet and trial it myself. However the choice of top, “cheapest material” not so much, it’s warped. You can see it in the trimming procedure
Beautiful work, very well played!
Just used Formica on my miter station and have an extra sheet for an assembly table. Excited to see the video
I’ll standby for the video. Although I’m still standing by for the dining table build you teased awhile ago. Haha. Looking forward to both Marc.
Awesome technique. I did the same thing, and it came out amazing! Love the look of flat black formika set against the dense plywood. Added some dog holes and👌🏽
Did that guy Frank had a bunny suit?
But, but… the torsion box top ??? 😂😂😂
Very fine work!
Why not go with torsion box? I'd like to know the pros and cons.
Because they're overkill. As the first guy to post a torsion box on YouTUbe I'm certainly guilty of encouraging people to build them. :) But over the years I've realized they're totally unnecessary. But if you have the time, budget, and desire, no one can fault you for wanting the flattest surface possible.
I found damaged flat hollow core doors are discounted at Home Depot. Glue a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF or plywood to them. They make agreat assembly table or portable work surface. They get beat up just glue on a new piece. Almost as good as a torsion box.
@The Wood Whisperer Thank you for the reply. I value your opinion. Torsion box really seems like too much trouble.
I've laid miles of laminate in my time. I pull a long extension cord through a rag and loop it in waves. Lay the laminate on top of the cord to get your alignment and start at one end pulling the cord out as you press it down. Guaranty bubble free. Use particle core not plywood as a substrate. Plywood is susceptible to delamination and will telegraph the grain. When using waterborne contact take your fingernail and scratch the surface (outside the area being glued) If it skins up like pealing a sunburn , it's not ready yet. Get down at eye level and look across each glued surface and look for any particles that may have been picked up. Nothing worse then getting a bubble from a tiny wood particle.
Nice job! Wish I had the room for one!
So if you use stainless screws are you superman???LOL
I need a nice big shop for an assembly table. 😂😂
That's nicer than many people's dining tables
I don’t find plywood very flat, after you laminate it you can see and feel waves in it…I’ve resorted to using 3/4 MDF as it’s perfectly flat
should you seal the bottom to prevent bowing from uneven exposure to humidity, or is there enough plywood so that you don't need to worry about that?
Seems more like a craft table a having all those screws in the top would be a problem in a wood shop again my opinion - also did the laminate show the screws below once it was drawn down to the table surface?
Frank AKA CarpenterOne3 is the man!
It's almost a shame to make any kind of mess on it. Beautiful
Nice!
The most important tool in any shop!
Great. Black here, too.
I didn't see the Embly part😂
Oh she’s a beaut Clark!!!
Tightbond 3 is is for exterior use. Why would you use it on a work bench?
Not nocking your methods but start with one corner, and align it. You don't need two people to laminate a 4x 8 or 4x10. Faster production.
I don't recommend the plastic sheet method for laying laminate. Can it be done? Yes, but you have to be VERY careful. Plastic tends to pick up a static charge. This can make sawdust stick to it. The last thing you want is trash getting stuck under your laminate, causing lumps.
I’ve never seen anyone use plastic. That was a pretty good trick.
Hi Marc. Did the solid wooden edges come with the second sheet (you know, the flat and cheap one) or the formica? I like how you roll......the formica 😂😂😂
You're welcome.
I used free mdf from the buttom of the good mdf pallet
What screws did you use?
There is a much easier way no plastic no sticks. Start on the shorter side n roll the sheet over ur head. Then slowly let it fall down. Done it a million times when i did cabinet work🤙
Not to nit pick, but I’d put the top sheet face down then glue then the bottom sheet then screw it. I’d let it fully dry then remove the screws, then I’d flip it over and laminate the top. If those screws aren’t perfectly level with the surface of the ply those voids will get smashed, also, if for some reason you cut through the top with a saw you don’t want your blade hitting a screw.
Plastic is the best way to laminate!
I used 2×6 from 1999 I had to belt sand them from the very dark color they were garage kept so the table turned out good
I've used sticks... plastic sheeting works, as long as it doesn't stick
They make 5 gallon spray tanks for that contact cement. It speeds up the process quite a bit. I also recommend a “PlASTI-CUT” file. It has a cutting edge where you can do essentially do the same thing as the router only by hand and you can get in tight areas and square off corners where the router can’t reach. It has a side for removing material and a side for finishing. They also make a wax you can apply to the router bits that helps with the adhesive gumming up the bearings.
Why would you not just buy a piece of melamine? It works great as cheap or cheaper and just put one piece.
Why TB 3 if fact we only use 1 unless it's for a laminate 😅
Instructions unclear! I ended up glueing my laminate to the plastic!
Good to hear that people aren’t gate keeping tricks of the trade 🔥
I have mine 5x10. Better for assembly big projects
She pulled out quick.
No screws, only glue and clamps and weight and then dog hole the crap out of it.
Wow, wouldn't it be great to have space for such a thing! Does any home/garage weekend warrior woodworker have space for such a thing? Free to dream!
I was looking at this style "lab" table for a work surface.... Much too expensive. This will help greatly, thanks!
Use tempered masonite and screw it down. Makes for a great disposable work surface and can be easily replaced.
Nice Work, Mark.
Throw a Stabila level passed the edges and check all around for gaps. Screws tension tend to pull plywood out of square. Hope its dead flat.
if you are going to use two sheets, why not just make a torsion box?
“Flat AND cheap “ sheet-goods do not exist 😂 I only know of “flat and expensive” or “wavy as the friggin Ocean and cheap”
How will you add work holding devices to that flat surface now?
I won't. That's not it's purpose.
@@woodwhisperer Would you show or tell us about how you plan to use it, please?
Put the glue on the substrate last. It dries faster.
Vacuum pressing?
Then you don't need the screws.
Who doesn’t know about the plastic film trick? It’s everywhere…. Screen protectors, car wraps, tinted windows, I could go on
Did anyone else read that as "Big Ass Assembly Table"?
I’m not sure if it’s important but shouldn’t you screw down the table from the center out? That way you push any trapped air pockets out. In the video it looks as though one guy started on the edge while the other started in the middle.
Again if you saw the stuff I’ve built you’d still be laughing.
No dog holes or t track functionality?
Pretty darn slick!
Are you going to drill it for bench dogs also?
Nope.
Why use laminate on a work table? Bare wood can be resanded periodically to take of scratches and stains
I don’t man it looks ok my opinion doesn’t matter just one of a few things I don’t care for is the screws and the Formica not sure what’s going on there
That unsupported overhang looks sketchy, like it's already drooping, but that could be the camera lens. Still, seems like too much.
It's not drooping at all. 10" of overhang on the long edge and 12" of overhang on the short edge is definitely not sketchy when you're talking about a layup of two sheets of plywood with hardwood edging.
Flat and Cheap? Available right next door to the Golden Unicorn store.
Where you get the laminate?
I use newspaper instead of plastic
Love that plastic sheet idea.
Starting to think about a BAT myself, so I'm looking forward to this video.
People talking shit about the gun being pump, but he's doing more work with it than most Americans do with their semi autos.
Just leave it with a plywood top.
I don't understand the point of several layers of, what seems like, expensive materials. Throw a second layer of mdf for a sacrificial surface. Whatever.
That is the most elaborate and tedious work bench build I've ever seen.
Forget d plastic, free hand d laminate
Why not just use a sheet of melamine and a sheet of ply so you don’t have to glue twice
Great job I want to build one
Nice table but can you replace the top when it becomes damaged or worn?
Yup!
How do you maintain flatness with a wood product over such a large span?
3/4” plywood is $100/4x8 sheet in Ontario Canada 😢
By assembly do you mean ping pong?
Looks AWESOME! How did you level the first sheet?
I laid it down on a flat base.
@@woodwhisperer nice! I've seen people using lasers and parallel bar methods, must be so much easier to already have a flat reference pane around.
Love it!!!
Please define "cheap"? The definition seems to have changed since 2020.
That plastic trick is pretty awesome
I'm having a super hard time understanding what's happening with the plastic. They pull it out too fast. Wouldn't one sheet of plastic get glue on it from both sides?
Where video?
Black tops are sexy, but white ones can be drawn on. In my experience, white melamine serves its intended shop purpose far long enough to yield a significant cost benefit compared to application of horizontal grade laminate.
Yeah I don’t draw on my tables. I have rolls of paper if I need to make large drawings, which has the added benefit of being movable or permanent if I need the drawing for something in the future, like a template. And because I film, black works out a lot better for me.
Wouldn't that chamfer make it easier for the top layer to peel up at the edge?