Thanks for posting such a straightforward "how to." I watched you're video and changed my valve in less than 20 minutes, and I am slow at doing everything on cars. I bought my part from the local auto parts store for 10.99$.
I just bought the same PCV valve with the same part number, but when I took my jk to the mechanic he told me that the valve could be too small, and the part number should end with AB rather than AD. but hey, u got the same part and it fitted right in!! so thanx :D
Thanks for the great video! I spent over an hour trying to get the old PCV valve out. Had to use a hair dryer to soften the plastic on the valve cover and it came off. New one slid right in no problem. Hopefully the jeep won't burn so much oil.
Dude , thanks! was easy.Had a hard time getting the PCV valve off. Used pliers and when that didn't work, used a small flat head screw driver and inserted it in the hole of the PCV valve then boom! off it went ! awesome. also used your method of placing it back in with a socket..did make a popping sound! way cool. Thanks again- Jeep Smash
There is zero need to take the coil pack off. But since you have, you should have replaced the band style clamp with a worm style. This would allow you, in the future, to use a long screwdriver thus preventing the need to take the coil pack off. And no need to replace the PCV (not PVC) every year unless you're driving in the dustiest of conditions regularly on overlanding adventures.
The condensor will come on when you have your defrost on when it gets colder to control moisture inside the cab. Depending how old yours is, how much water or mud it's seen will depend on some of the noises it will make.
Funny your mechanic thought it might be too small... I always go to the dealer/parts desk and pick it up there, they do the search and it's always been the same... Not sure if it's different of model yrs... mine is a 2010 and I did have a 2007, not sure if it was different.
Now that I have changed my PCV valve, all my throttle problem went away. BUT, now there's a little "Grrrr" sound that comes off through the a/c (Even when it's off) Any idea what that is? The mechanic did apply some grease on the valve before installing it.. I'm thinking maybe that's why?
Just a word of caution, when I pried mine out, the black rubber/plastic part snapped in two leaving the lower portion wedged down in the valve cover. While trying to pry it out, the valve cover was so brittle that it snapped the entire edge off. Overheated, cheap plastic junk. Be very careful and maybe try to spin the valve before pulling up because the rubber on the valve could be very, very brittle and either fall or be left inside. Now I've gotta buy a fricken valve cover because I'm worried I'm gonna leak oil around the valve.
Very good information. Thank you. My son has this jeep now and we have not run into that issue yet but we will try your suggestion the next time we change it.
I went to another mechanic, told me the same thing. I insisted that's it's the right part, and it fitted just right. The old valve was hard to remove thou. (CZcams made me a better mechanic than those greedy idiots! xD)
hi thanks for the video. is the engine hot or cold? i am have a hard time getting the PVC valve out of my 2009 T&c 3.8 L . the location and part are very similar. not finding videos for the on the web. tried the zip tie trick and the tie kept breaking. did you have to use any lub to get the part back in?
Hi, The engine was cold. I did this early morning. Sometimes they are very hard to get out. You could use pliers like I did, you'll just have to replace it for sure. You should have to lube it to get it back in. If so, just use a little bit of motor oil.
Got the PCV valve out this afternoon. the engine was still a little hot after letting it cool for 30 minutes. used a piece of rope the type you get for free at home depot to tie stuff to the roof of your car. made a double loop around the valve nipple and used a pair of needle nose plyers to leverge off the engine block. the rope didn't break like the zip ties. cleared the code 0507 with the reader. drove it around for a bit still getting throttle flashing red light on the dash and check engine light code 0507. just tried pulling the fuses on the PCM. been reading that these comuperized throttles need to ajust to driving cycles. pulled the fuse in hopes of reseting the throttle to factory setting. in the last month i have replaced the EGR valve, battery, cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the PCV valve. if the idle won't stablize any sugestion on what might be causing the problem?
Actually I installed the EGR Value wrong. The gasket was blocking the intake tube. I couldn’t see it through the naked eye since it was back by the firewall. I had to reach my phone back there to take a picture. That must have been what was choking the engine and causing the lightening bolt/ code 0507. The gasket just slipped down and was blocking the flow for the EGR. I put the gasket were it should have been and that cleared the code. You might have some blockage in the EGR tube.
It basically vents the engine block from any blow by that leaks past the rings (there's always some no matter how new the engine because the gap in the rings leak a little compression past them) and keeps the compression from building up in the block and making gaskets leak. It allows the pressure inside the block itself to be recirculated back into the intake to be burnt up in the cylinders.
Thanks for posting such a straightforward "how to." I watched you're video and changed my valve in less than 20 minutes, and I am slow at doing everything on cars. I bought my part from the local auto parts store for 10.99$.
I just bought the same PCV valve with the same part number, but when I took my jk to the mechanic he told me that the valve could be too small, and the part number should end with AB rather than AD. but hey, u got the same part and it fitted right in!! so thanx :D
Thanks for the great video! I spent over an hour trying to get the old PCV valve out. Had to use a hair dryer to soften the plastic on the valve cover and it came off. New one slid right in no problem. Hopefully the jeep won't burn so much oil.
How did it work for you?
Dude , thanks! was easy.Had a hard time getting the PCV valve off. Used pliers and when that didn't work, used a small flat head screw driver and inserted it in the hole of the PCV valve then boom! off it went ! awesome. also used your method of placing it back in with a socket..did make a popping sound! way cool. Thanks again- Jeep Smash
No problem... glad you could use the video for help.
Jeep Rome Hi There, I've been trying to get this valve out for more than and hour, any tip?
Said Lopez If you are replacing it use a pair of pliers to take it out.
Jeep Rome s
There is zero need to take the coil pack off. But since you have, you should have replaced the band style clamp with a worm style. This would allow you, in the future, to use a long screwdriver thus preventing the need to take the coil pack off. And no need to replace the PCV (not PVC) every year unless you're driving in the dustiest of conditions regularly on overlanding adventures.
Thanks. Just what I wanted to see.
Karl Kastner Thanks for watching.
The condensor will come on when you have your defrost on when it gets colder to control moisture inside the cab. Depending how old yours is, how much water or mud it's seen will depend on some of the noises it will make.
Thank you very much. You have helped me greatly.
+John Zoidberg thanks for watching
Thanks for posting
Funny your mechanic thought it might be too small... I always go to the dealer/parts desk and pick it up there, they do the search and it's always been the same... Not sure if it's different of model yrs... mine is a 2010 and I did have a 2007, not sure if it was different.
The part number I have is a Canadian part... they may be the difference from AB to AD
Now that I have changed my PCV valve, all my throttle problem went away. BUT, now there's a little "Grrrr" sound that comes off through the a/c (Even when it's off) Any idea what that is? The mechanic did apply some grease on the valve before installing it.. I'm thinking maybe that's why?
the noise faded away gradually and stopped :s (really weird!!) but is a sound in the condenser a serious thing?
getting the old one out was way harder than it should have been
Yes sometimes they are. I had a friend change his, took him about a half hour.
mine just slid in I thought I didn't put it in far down enough
Is there supposed to be a plastic housing around the pcv value? Can't get the part out!
C RomDawg In the video I show the part to change. There isn't any cover on it. If your putting a new one in, just use a set of pliers to get it out.
Just a word of caution, when I pried mine out, the black rubber/plastic part snapped in two leaving the lower portion wedged down in the valve cover. While trying to pry it out, the valve cover was so brittle that it snapped the entire edge off. Overheated, cheap plastic junk. Be very careful and maybe try to spin the valve before pulling up because the rubber on the valve could be very, very brittle and either fall or be left inside. Now I've gotta buy a fricken valve cover because I'm worried I'm gonna leak oil around the valve.
Very good information. Thank you. My son has this jeep now and we have not run into that issue yet but we will try your suggestion the next time we change it.
I went to another mechanic, told me the same thing. I insisted that's it's the right part, and it fitted just right. The old valve was hard to remove thou. (CZcams made me a better mechanic than those greedy idiots! xD)
hi
thanks for the video. is the engine hot or cold? i am have a hard time getting the PVC valve out of my 2009 T&c 3.8 L . the location and part are very similar. not finding videos for the on the web. tried the zip tie trick and the tie kept breaking. did you have to use any lub to get the part back in?
Hi, The engine was cold. I did this early morning. Sometimes they are very hard to get out. You could use pliers like I did, you'll just have to replace it for sure. You should have to lube it to get it back in. If so, just use a little bit of motor oil.
Got the PCV valve out this afternoon. the engine was still a little hot after letting it cool for 30 minutes. used a piece of rope the type you get for free at home depot to tie stuff to the roof of your car. made a double loop around the valve nipple and used a pair of needle nose plyers to leverge off the engine block. the rope didn't break like the zip ties. cleared the code 0507 with the reader. drove it around for a bit still getting throttle flashing red light on the dash and check engine light code 0507. just tried pulling the fuses on the PCM. been reading that these comuperized throttles need to ajust to driving cycles. pulled the fuse in hopes of reseting the throttle to factory setting. in the last month i have replaced the EGR valve, battery, cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the PCV valve. if the idle won't stablize any sugestion on what might be causing the problem?
homeguy4 Hi there, I can get my PVC out, any tips?
@@edwardcrowley6272 I am having the same issue with lightning bolt light. Did you ever figure out the cause? Can't seem to find any answers online.
Actually I installed the EGR Value wrong. The gasket was blocking the intake tube. I couldn’t see it through the naked eye since it was back by the firewall. I had to reach my phone back there to take a picture. That must have been what was choking the engine and causing the lightening bolt/ code 0507. The gasket just slipped down and was blocking the flow for the EGR. I put the gasket were it should have been and that cleared the code. You might have some blockage in the EGR tube.
The grease on the valve shouldn't make the noise... it could be your condensor that's making the noise.
Google is your friend.
Any one can tell me What the porpuse of this part....
Thanks
duhaib almaimani i was using a lot of oil. Like two quarts a month. I changed the pcv and it def improved.
It basically vents the engine block from any blow by that leaks past the rings (there's always some no matter how new the engine because the gap in the rings leak a little compression past them) and keeps the compression from building up in the block and making gaskets leak. It allows the pressure inside the block itself to be recirculated back into the intake to be burnt up in the cylinders.
Emmm