Star Power Vacuum Engine
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Small easy starting Vacuum or Flame Licker engine.
Since Banggood is no longer interested in selling engines, get your engines here.
* * * Using the following links will support my channel. * * *
Coupon Code 10% off for all engines: Ron'sStuff
ENJOMOR Large Stirling Engine Metal bit.ly/3MeQMxc
Sai Hu SH-02 Vacuum Engine bit.ly/3M6MMyC
Sai Hu V1-45 Vacuum Engine, Flame-Licker bit.ly/3O8OstW
Gatling 6 Cylinder Stirling Engine: bit.ly/41Yy3vU
Replacement Glass Cylinders & O-rings - repair of one cylinder Gatling Stirling bit.ly/3NkSP4N
M12 Mini Gasoline Engine Water-cooled bit.ly/3PQW42a
M12C Horizontal Water-cooled 2 Cylinder IC Engine bit.ly/3oFDQoF
M14 Double Piston Mini Engine bit.ly/3oTqJA5
M19 Vertical Hit & Miss Engine With Flying Ball Governor bit.ly/3vCZGx0
M90 Hit & Miss Gas Engine IC Engine bit.ly/3Sinhg7
M91 Vertical Hit & Miss Engine IC Engine bit.ly/3JkelTa
M94 Hit & Miss Engine - Simplified Governor bit.ly/3SoZrzf
M17 Hit & Miss - It has a governor bit.ly/3Urz0tz
M17B 4-Stroke - No Governor - Has Intake & Exhaust Pushrods bit.ly/3dzjnQb
More Gasoline Engine: bit.ly/3cRQVbG
More engines from enginediy: www.enginediy....
Spark Plug Mini Gasoline Engine bit.ly/3xExRVX
Neat little engine and it has a modern looking design. Good video!
This engine looks ans sounds good for this price. I've used your link to buy mine.
I think i'll try to add a home made water cooler to keep it running longer.
Thank you.
All videos you made are very helpful.That explain to us to understand how things work as well as how to operate them. Appreciate your work . Are you Mechanical engineer ?
Your kind comment is much appreciated!
I am a Mechanical Engineer. I lived and worked overseas for over 20 years in the Oil & Gas Service and Mining Industries. I have an Amateur Radio License and have built and flown radio controlled airplanes for over 40 years.
You should find many other videos of interest on my channel.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.
That is what keeps this channel running.
Ron
So, it would run longer if the cylinder had cooling fins, and it ran a fan to circulate cool air over it.
Correct. Cylinder cooling will extend the run time. The name of the game with these and the Stirling engines is maximum possible temperature differential. I have videos on two larger flame-licker or vacuum engines which run much longer... but eventually they will also get too hot.
@@RonaldWalters2010 Have you seen any that have the features I mentioned? Losing a little power to a fan seems trivial to it's benefits, and fins are very common on cylinders.
I have six videos on the Sai Hu V1-45 and the SH-02. The videos cover engine review, timing, preheating, dry lubrication, etc. The larger V1-45 has a small fan which is mostly for show and not very effective. Go to my channel pave and scroll down through the videos.
It would be interesting if you could determine the RPM’s with a strobe light.
Unfortunately, I do not have a suitable tachometer.
I have the same engine and can not get it to run at all, I have spent many hours working on the little engine with no luck
Sorry to hear that.
This is probably the easiest engine to run that I have had... right out of the box... untouched.
You did not mention where you got it. Was it new or purchased used?
If new... complain to whoever you purchased it from.
The timing may be off. The power stroke on these is reversed to an internal combustion engine. That means the valve closes when the piston is all the way (or nearly all the way) back. It is the vacuum above the piston (created by the hot gasses cooling off) which pulls against the top of the piston for the "power stroke" and then the valve opens during the last portion of the pistons upward travel when the somewhat cooled gasses are expelled. It is a 2-cycle (2-stroke) engine.
For this engine you should not use any oil (zero) on the piston. If you have used oil, then you need to take it apart and clean the piston and cylinder.
I recommend you do not use rubbing alcohol from the drug store as they very burn very dirty and that carbon can cause problems inside the cylinder and valve areas. Use denatured alcohol which burns perfectly clean (sold in the paint department or camping section of your shopping center, Lowe's or Home Depot).
I have 70 videos on various model engines and they are all grouped together in a playlist. I go over the timing for some of them... the V45 in particular... so that may be helpful.
Sai Hu V1-45 Vacuum Engine (review) czcams.com/video/CSWtCb8Uo0E/video.html
Sai Hu V1-45 Vacuum Engine - Better Timing & Improved Running czcams.com/video/Uq9Gl4GBN6U/video.html
The V1-45 I received was totally out of time. Everything was loose on it and at the time I had never run a vacuum engine before. Having to figure out the timing on my own was an exercise in thinking backwards to a "normal" internal combustion engine. And the V1-45 is a more complicated engine. :-)
Good Luck!
Thanks for watching! Please subscribe.
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
Does it have enough power to run any kind of accessory?
No it does not. But it is a good running model engine.
Thanks for watching!
Hey can i use WD40 to lubricate piston ?
WD40 is a terrible lubricant, especially for this application. Some of these vacuum or flame-licker engines will recommend what type lubricant. You can try a light oil like 3In1 oil or Singer Sewing Machine oil... but only use one (1) drop. These get really hot inside and the oil will eventually burn up and that will require cleaning out the cylinder and the piston. I have a video on using dry lubricant "SH-02 Vacuum Engine - Dry Lubricants" which work well. I have several videos on these vacuum engines. They are all listed in one of my playlists.
@@RonaldWalters2010 thanks for help 🙂
@@RonaldWalters2010 and the tube that was included is for timing wheel axle
OK - I watched my video on this engine again.
The piston appears to be a carbon type material and no oil or dry lubricant should be necessary for the piston. So do not oil the piston in this engine (as stated in the video).
The section of small plastic tubing that was included - I think it was intended to go into the end of the fuel bottle but mine did not fit. I never used it.
If the engine uses the flame only half of the time, maybe you can run a 2 cylinder engine with only 1 flame.
The huffing and puffing of the flame needs to be above the base of the flame so the exhaust (the puffing part) does not blow out the fire.
I have seen multiple cylinder versions of these flame-lickers made including v-cylinder versions and each cylinder has had its own flame... mainly due to the offset of the cylinders caused by the crankshaft spacing.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
Where is the exhaust valve??? Hope you reply bro
At 2:15 the hole in the center of the head serves as the intake and exhaust. The sliding valve is explained. Hot gas is drawn into the cylinder… the valve closes… as the gas inside the cylinder cools, it creates a vacuum inside the engine which pulls on the top of the piston… then the valve opens and the now cooler gas it exhausted out the port and the process repeats. Watch the video again.
A better explanation of the cycle is in the video for the Sai Hu V1-45 engine. All of the Flame-Eater or Vacuum Engines work the same. Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe! Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 thanks bro...
I just got this engine, but I can't get it to run. It either blows out the flame, but even when it doesn't it does not start. Do you have any tips on what I could try?
Edit: I just tried a large flame source, but replacing the metal wick with a paper one. It wasn't able to blow out that flame, but it still didn't run. My guess is that it just isn't strong enough to move.
Assuming you watched my video before trying to run it and that it was not damaged in shipment.
These usually run right out of the box. The wick needs to be taller than you might think. It should extend up above the intake port in the head. If the wick is too low it tends to blow the fire out. Is the wick up above the intake port?
Hopefully you did not oil the cylinder or change any positions of the components. Did you oil the cylinder or change the position of anything?
The valve should completely cover the intake port when the connecting rod is all the way back (BDC or bottom dead center). This is shown and described in the video.
It should make a popping sound when you spin the flywheel (as it does in my video). Does it make a popping sound?
You should use denatured alcohol (not running alcohol) as it burns clean and will not form a bunch of carbon.
Try it again and let me know how you do.
Ron
One other thing, which should be obvious from the video... it only runs in one direction.
@@RonaldWalters2010 I've tried with the wick in many positions after watching your video, but the initial tests I did without doing any modifications. I did not change the position of any components and the intake port is covered as you said. It does to the same popping sound as well and I'm using cleanly burning alcohol. I did oil the parts you showed in the video, those joints. My model has one difference though, there is a screw with a spring right above the intake port, pushing against the flap, I've played with adjusting it so that the flap can move freely. I extended the wick a bit more this morning after reading your comments and I managed to get it to run for a second or two by itself. In regards to the running direction, I noticed that, the valve makes a pretty good seal if you try to run it in the other direction.
Thank you for your reply, it is really appreciated.
I am at a disadvantage here because I have not seen your version of the engine with the screw & spring against the sliding valve.
Is your engine on a wood base of a black metal base?
Try raising the flame a little higher. It can take a few seconds for the cylinder to warm up enough for the engine to run. Later when the cylinder gets too hot, the engine will stop and will need to cool down before running again.
The timing of the engine only allows the engine to run in one direction. If the timing was changed, then the engine would only run in the opposite direction. My engine ran with the flywheel turning counterclockwise (as viewed when facing the flywheel).
The flame needs to be pretty close to the intake port… and engine running speed (or not running at all) is quite sensitive to the flame position.
Send me a photo of your engine and one of the screw & spring you described.
ronsstuff2010yt@gmail.com
Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Will do, thank you very much
Do you own their HB34 Stirling engine?
I believe that is the 4-cylinder Stirling. That is a fairly expensive model. I do not have t hat one (yet).
Hey Ronald Walters how can I contanct you ? any mail or page please ?
Go to my channel page. Click on "About" and look for the email address (lower left hand corner).