Blown Up or NOT??? Infiniti EX35 3.5 Overheating!
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
- Did you miss Pt1? Click HERE! • Overheated after new R...
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As a old retired radiator shop owner we always used a pressure tester before and after repairs to make sure there were no leaks. We also used a vacuum filler for hard to fill systems saves a lot of time and time is money in auto repair. But anyone who has turned wrenches for a living knows anything can happen in this business. Thanks I watch the videos every day.
If the pressure checks out and no indication of air pockets or fan issues it's almost always the thermostat that's problematic. An old car I had did assert a behavior where it did go quite hot and then fall back later to a normal temp and it was the thermostat sticking. It's a cheap component and if it's hard to change I see it as a construction failure.
@@ehsnils ...isnt it normal practice to change out thermostat when you do the radiator ?
@@nickmalone3143 Why should you? It would depend on reason for changing the radiator.
I always pressure test after a cooling system repair.
I had already learned a great deal about cars in general from my late husband as previously commented in another video. When he began to lose dexterity in his hands I became his hands & he told me what to do so I learned even more literally hands on. Ray continues to teach me through his videos. He may not be a sexy ass black man but they have very similar personalities, lol.
As a detailer, I love it when people tell me that hosing off the engine is going to cause problems. The engine isn't made of sugar and isn't going to melt. The danger is in using a high pressure wand at a car wash on the engine. That can cause issues forcing water into places or literally cutting wires off harnesses. I've seen that happen before... Obviously you aren't trying to flood the engine with water and you should avoid soaking electrical system, but everything susceptible to water is sealed with rubber gaskets, so you are really fine to just hose it down. Just don't do it when it is hot and remember that it isn't on fire and there isn't a need to use 200 gallons of water to clean your engine. Let the degreaser do some of the work, hose it off, and then go in and do the actual cleaning with brushes and spray bottles. That's how you get a 200,000 mile engine to shine like a diamond in a goat's ass. ;) Anyway, this has been your detailing minute for the day. As you were. :)
Ok, I’m very old and come off a farm,
I used to diagnose head gaskets by putting it in gear with the brakes on and load it right up.
On the old V8's you remove the thermostat /housing, and water pump belt. Start the engine and watch the opening for bubbles. Bubbles would show up on the side that was leaking.
I think that spill free coolant funnel and your ratcheting brake caliper piston spreader are 2 of the coolest tools you've shown us.
Angry pliers too!
and now galiper piston are screwd back in no more compression to push them back in.
@@fyfo1432 only on the rears usually and normally not screwed in if the epb is disabled
Yep, took me 3 hours once to properly bleed a VQ35. And it kept overheating until the last hour of bleeding. Great engines but terrible to bleed and terrible to check oil on.
Man those heater hose connectors are super common for leaking on Infiniti’s! The plastic from factory brittles over time. Just replaced both hoses (firewall to connector and connector to the block) on my g37 and man it was a pain also ended up replacing the plastic connector with a brass fitting to prevent it from going bad again. Crazy luck that yours came out so easy! Mine broke off inside and was in pieces so I had to replace both hoses.
Florida law requires the customer to give the first shop one try at repairing the problem. If the customer fails to do so the first shop is not liable. Only fair thing to do.
Nice job!! I really like the way you always follow up on the diagnosis and double check everything when you're done!!
I’ve watched dozens of your videos and enjoyed each one. Never in my wildest dreams would I imagine myself watching someone troubleshoot and repair cars. Which i think speaks to your personality Ray. Another job done 👍🏼
Your videos are God sent. I've fixed certain issues on my vehicle just from watching your vids. Thank you for what you do. I'm actually going into auto mechanics in a few years after I'm done serving in the military
in cars and trucks like this, with no steam ports, its really important to vac the system down first, THEN draw coolant back into it. Air gets trapped in the head and back of the block.
You sir are great to watch , I'm not a motor head but I learn and love the fact that you look at all options other than the one that stands out and it's clear you enjoy your work and pride yourself on a good job done .
Pat yourself on the back.
Glad it worked out I figured you were going to to a combustion leak test next I was thinking it was going to start bubbling again after it got hot. Dood diag and repair Ray !
With the other shop paying for the repair that you done, it’s good advertisement for them. I’m having myself a great day this morning drinking coffee and watching your video. 👍👍👍👍to you
As always enjoyed the video. Also wanted to let you know my 3 year old great grandsons really likes to watch your videos with me. I appreciate you keeping the language PG. Have a great day yourself and God Bless.
Also, I doubt that fitting was leaking when the other shop installed the radiator. The degraded condition of that connector leads me to believe that it let loose suddenly and catastrophically. GM used various plastic coolant nipples over the years. I've seen countless blown apart like that. I would have marked this up to an unfortunate coincidence.
As a mechanic if you rebuild the brakes. and the muffler developes a leak, you obviously are responsible. LOL People are suspisious of mechanics for good reason, but they become unreasonable fast when the bill comes due.
GM using cheap plastic for almost everything that used to be metal, as most others. Their shouldn't have to be a plastic connector, just use a single molded hose and avoid a weak point that doesn't need to be there in the first place.
Not sure why manufacturers use so dang much plastic, I see shit like this and it sends my OCD into overdrive, I would have replaced that shit china plastic with a Brass nipple can never go wrong with a brass nipple, plus that shit will outlast the car and never blowout. :)
I suspect what happened was that the original radiator had a leak (the reason for it being replaced) and as such the cooling system was not able to reach its normal operating pressure. Once the radiator was replaced, along with a new radiator cap and hoses, the system pressurized and took-out the next weakest link in the system - the plastic connector. The connector was probably on the verge of failing and it just took a bit of pressure to finally cause it to split. Might have been wise for the last shop to manually pressurize the system after the radiator/cap/hoses were replaced to see if the system maintained pressure. It may have held or it may have caused the connector to fail. Just my 2-cents.
Yep, never get under a GM at operating temperature that has a minor coolant leak and start tugging on heater hoses trying to locate it....
Awesome customer service right there. Gained another loyal consumer.
Ray your attention to detail and superb skill makes it look like it’s easy. Kudos again for outstanding diagnosis and remedying the issue. Avid follower. Keep them coming man.
I use a funnel like yours. Keeping it near full eliminates needing to park on a hill or jacking up the front end {as per some service manuals on some cars} to get the air out. Also to curb mess, squeeze the top hose as you put the cork in the funnel, when the cork is in let go of the hose and remove the funnel.I run the car till hot, then leave the funnel in place till it cools down, level in funnel should drop down and air lock should be gone.
Love the ‘assault’ air gun;the optic on it looks cool! You make auto repair interesting to someone who has never been interested in your trade, thanks Ray!
Imagine the people that drive by and see Rat "assault" gunning a car...LOL
Is that a "ghost airgun"?
@@gaad7938 Highly doubt it has serial number!
But where did he get it from
@@spydernam He made it;the added parts make it just look like something it isn’t
I had one blow suddenly on my '09 Dodge Grand Caravan. Was on the highway, near an exit, in Nova Scotia Canada. What great people! Someone drove me into town. I picked up a piece of 1/2" copper pipe, 2 clamps, and 2 bottles of coolant. The same person drove me back to my van. I offered some money to cover their time. Wouldn't take it. Back on the road 2 hours later. People from Atlantic Canada are awesome!
The news is too busy covering only the bad people, there are far more good people out there than what we are led to believe!
Thank you. You're welcome. 💕
I, too, have been known to squeeze the lower hose. I just don't make a video of it and put it up on CZcams.
I enjoyed Both videos Ray gave them 👍👍. It was also so nice of you to take the extra step to blow out the leaves and rinse the engine off. I have had the Cooling system work before and would smell coolant burning off for over a week in my car. I wish there were mechanics where I live that had your work ethic.
I appreciate the RDS on your air blower. Makes sighting easier.
Love the red dot sight on the Assault Blow Gun!
Not to mention the gun stock and picatinny rail system.
Good thing is engine survived having temperature and no drink!
Have a blessed Easter!
Enjoyed
Ray, this is another one of the best videos you have ever done. Not only because it deals with Infiniti, which I have, but because it was clean and nice and very good style. Thank you!
I got the old 2006 G35 and every time I have to do a thermostat or a new radiator there was always issues getting the air out of the whole system bleeding it through the back by the firewall and adding coolant it was pretty difficult took about 35 minutes for me by at the end it was done 👍
Waiting for bubbles in the funnel reminds me of staring at a lava lamp.
Anytime i suspect head gasket leaks...i pressurize the cooling system pull the coils and plugs, drop a 1080p borescope into the cylinders and look for coolant. Works every time!
I’m a shade tree mechanic for the last 35 years and I really enjoy your videos, very entertaining and informative. Thanks
Many of the VQ 3.5 L engines have an air release cap from the very area you repaired the hose connections. The V6's are very touchy when doing a coolant flush. Heater on high position during procedure and raise the front end into the air.
Yep. In addition it literally can take an hour to purge the air out running it with the heater on high.
This is certainly a tough case to lay any blame. As I've gotten older, I've mellowed out a bit and can see that not every bad thing that happens can be properly blamed on someone. I like your attitude on this at the end. No blame on the previous guy. But also saying that if you had done the work he did, you would have been somewhat embarrassed by this failure, and would have comp'd the repair just for the customer good will. Who knows how many times something similar may have happened in one of your repairs? Something failed just after you worked on the car - that may or may not have been related to the work you just did.
Very professional approach with well equipped tools
Great job Ray. I was initially fairly certain that it was a blown head gasket. Glad it all worked out.
It's been said already but a vacuum refiller tool is amazing in cooling repair situations. You can tell if a system has leaks pretty easily and quickly with it.
And also know that the bubbles in your fancy funnel later on aren't from air pockets!
I was forced to use a vacuum refiller due to altitude given a 205 degree thermostat and a 199 degree boiling point. I will never go back, especially for engines like the Pentastar 3.6 engines with the super low thermostat housings. They save time and answer questions like you mentioned.
I have used a vacuum refiller for years. Makes simple work of refilling coolant. I bought a two gallon fuel can and mix the coolant.
I use my vacuum refiller anytime I open the cooling system. No trapped air pockets. Best $200 investment.
Helps find those sneaky leaking hose barbs too
I think you're on to something there.
I’ve tried one and didn’t have any luck. Didn’t suck out anything. Could’ve been poor quality on the one I purchased but I doubt I’ll ever try again. A big waste of my time.
@@LeewardStudiosYou may have had a leak in the system or the seal on the radiator or tank was leaking. Never had an issue with mine besides 1 leaky system
They are decent. Following manufacture specs on cooling system fill is key though. Some are real easy to do, some require special tricks. My favorite is the Hemi's. Remove the steel bung in the water pump and fill them up.
Kudos to you Ray for not throwing the other shop under the bus. As technicians it is real easy to put blame on anther shop to make your shop or even yourself look better. That is how shops get bad names. Good on you Ray, I think you needed to hear this.
Radiator purge tip. Squeeze the radiator hose a little before putting in that plug and pulling the funnel off. It will create enough space to keep you from spilling coolant out of the neck.
some cooling systems do not like being run dry, they need refilled with the radiator elevated by jacking the front of the vehicle up as high as the jack will allow.
Sometimes things just aren't apparent. Those fittings do tend to break suddenly without warning, so in this case it was a Coinkadink. There was a Suburban that I worked on many moons ago, kept loosing coolant, could not figure out from where. We ran chemical tests, nothing, pressure tests actually held, no leaks anywhere. We were stumped. I finally convinced the owner to do exploratory surgery on the engine, take it down and inspect the block internally. Got the intake off and sure as shit, there was this tiny crack on the inside valley. When the engine got hot, it would leak coolant and evaporate before even getting near the oil. They got a new engine.
Have a friend who was stumped years back on a GM big block of some kind. Rebuilt but had oil pressure problems they couldn't figure out. Eventually they had the oil pan off it, but supplied oil to the pump somehow, and ran it (this may have been messy) and my friend (under there getting messy?) discovered a crack in the block accounting for the oil pressure loss.
Love the picatinny rail and red dot on the air gun for quick leaf acquisition.
Fresh outta heart surgery, my go to videos! Ahhhhh, relaxing… click
Love the sight on the air gun
Given how much trouble Ray had purging the air, I think it's likely the other shop did not do so adequately. This could have caused the over heating and subsequent over pressure that broke the now brittle hose coupler.
its quite common for old plastic bits that are part of the cooling system to break if you fix someone else in the system, even if its far away from what you fixed.
just like these stupid kids thinking that putting a high pressure 'racing' radiator cap on their system is a great idea....until it isnt
@@PandaMan02: Radiators are usually replaced because they are leaking. If the radiator is leaking, the system will not develop the rated pressure. When the pressure returns to normal, the next weak link fails.
This happens a lot with the fleet trucks I maintain. So often in fact that my company tows back nissan frontiers 200+ miles for me to change $7 heater fittings. We blew 2 engines last year because nobody understands you need to fill them through the radiator first then the reservoir.
My thought as well . " Burping " a Radiator/Cooling system is IMPORTANT .
Not going to lie, I was hoping to see the chemical block test. I've already learned multiple new things from this channel that I have been able to put to use helping my customers.
Great Job, Ray. Love watching you work. Poetry in motion.
That was a lucky break for Mrs. Customer, I was dreading seeing the gas tester fluid turn from blue to yellow.
I would have gas tested it. That would have at least ruled that out.
She was lucky indeed
@@mph5896 Same here. It's the only way to know for sure.
Is that hose connected to a giant can of brake cleaner? 😅🤣😂
It's good to see that you follow through on this. That's what makes a good mechanic. It seems that you treat the customers cars like it was your own. One more thing.....I gotta' have one of those assult air rifles.
Great video Ray. Fiat 124 Spiders with the 2 liter engine were notoriously hard to bleed the cooling system on. The only sure fire way of doing it was to jack the nose of the car up high with the cap off and wait for the thermostat to open. Then about a gallon of coolant would disappear and you feverishly added some more in. That funnel is the bomb!
For those factory hose clamps I have had some luck with long nose locking vise grip pliers. Once locked you don't have to worry about squeezing the pliers to hold the clamp down and can concentrate more on not torqueing the pliers off of the clamp as you work the clamp down the hose. Nice video Ray and thanks.
Wow great tip thanks.
For proper engine cleaning you have to open the 710 cap before using water 🤔😎
Nice, was looking forward to the conclusion on this one.
You do what you do the way you do it because you are you. TOP MAN.
I had an 09 fx35 with the same motor and the cooling fan failed going down the hwy at 80mph (broken wire.) I changed the thermostat and diagnosed that there was a blocked radiator after the severe overheating event so that and all the hoses were changed. It ran great for FOUR DAYS before it started overheating again. Turns out, the head gasket was blown and they didn't know because they didn't do a SIMPLE chemical block test after replacing the radiator. They purged the air so it quit temporarily overheating and I immediately brought it for a trade in as I still owed 10k on the vehicle. No, I don't feel bad about shafting the dealership.
you know they just forwarded the shafting to the next owner right? i doubt they fixed it if nobody testing it noticed
@@knexmanmanmanman1781 while that was my original thought, the next owner will get the benefits of the lemon law coverage at the least. So the issue will be found, or the car scrapped, ultimately. Still sucks for the next guy, but at least he won't take a big loss on it.
@@GReaper Lemon laws vary from state to state. For example, there is no lemon law for used cars in Florida.
@@johnbize5736 There is no lemon law on used cars in Florida. The car already is in Florida. Are there states where lemon laws apply to used cars?
Radiators don't magically stuff up and failed fan doesn't matter while moving. The cooling system is sufficient with only one fan. You bought a defective engine or radiator had hairline crack. The leak can't be seen if you don't know how to look for it.
Did anyone ask why the rad was changed? Could it have been a mis-diagnosis? In other words it was losing coolant from the broken connector, but the other shop thought it was the radiator so changed the wrong part? I'm just putting this out there as a scenario, there is no way of knowing for sure.
Ray good job and I think Infinity should use a giggle pin thermostat as Jeeps use with a bleed port on the upper radiator hose, some of these engines just refuse to bleed the air out of the system for a few days. PS Eric O. over at SMA is using your Doodly doo sound now every time the phone ring, see it is catching, your a hit even with other CZcams mechanics, Eric O. at SMA and Ivan PHAD, CSW Giggity, even Ford Boss, you guys are the cream of the crop and the best of the best. Keep up the good work Brother.
Noticed you left the hood seal on the passenger side cowel loose/out of it's proper position on it's rail. Naughty boi !
I'm thinking that you might have a small blown gasket... took way too long to purge the system. I had a similar problem on my company car that I do my own maintenance on. Started as a leaking water pump, I thought I had the system purged, overheated, figured I had air trapped, purged the system on ramps for 30+ min, no more bubbles, ran great on short trips, but when I drove for 45+ min, it started overheating again. I'm not an actual mechanic, but do many of my own repairs, and I couldn't get my hands on a chem leak tester, but was able to rent a tool to pressurize the system and found coolant in one of my cylinders, and a small coolant leaking from the block.
Please follow up if the vehicle returns to your shop, but unfortunately, we may never know.... some people will just go to a 3rd shop or return to the first. Hopeful it was just trapped air and all is good.
Normally I agree with Ray but this time I would have done things slightly differently. 1st. After new fitting installed and coolant fill, pressure test cooling system with a manual pump to rad cap opening pressure. Then the more pumps to pressurize the system, the more air (and not coolant) is in the system - no matter where that air might be. When depressurizing after testing, most times the cooling system will "burp" releasing more air. May take a few times filling with more coolant and re-pressurizing but some cars a real pain to get the air out of the cooling system - my wife's 2008 RAV 4 V6 is a real pain even using a vacuum filling unit - takes 40 mins to get it where the pressure pump only takes about 12 - 15 pumps to get it up to rad cap pressure of 15psi - initially may take 40 - 50 pumps. 2nd. If in any doubt whether the car has a combustion chamber leak into the cooling system, the chemical analysis test can be used (Ray did mention this) checking the air being expelled from the rad cap spout. If that comes back negative then that normally rules out a head gasket or other combustion gas leak - internally anyway, but it is not 100% foolproof - have been caught out before with the most minor leak that presents itself over 200 - 300kms. I have watched many of Ray's videos involving cooling systems and he seems to not use the cooling system pressure tester very often. At home in my shed, I ALWAYS test each car, with the owner present, when I have done any work on the cooling system. That "tin plates my backside" and shows that at the time the vehicle leaves my place there were no leaks or bulging hoses. I appreciate that Ray does a visual check with each system intervention but I have regularly found a joint that leaks under pressure whereas it didn't with normal checks (without the pressure system test being performed). I wonder why Ray does it his way - I am sure he has good reasons. I would welcome a comment from Ray. Retired 70 yr old mechanic in Land Down Under.
I'm glad that the lady's car is ok great video Ray
Some of the Toyota 3.5L V6 engines are picky about purging too. I had a new radiator installed and about a week later, I noticed the coolant level in the overflow went to empty. I filled it back up and took it back to shop and asked them to purge it again. Second time around, so far so good.
Only way to fully bleed the coolant system on these vq engines is to lift the front end. Any air in the system will overheat the engine. These can be a pest to bleed.
this. vqs are one of the worst to bleed if you dont elevate the front end
Agreed, it also causes issues with the heating system if there is air in the heater core.
Some Hyundais are the same way. Have to lift the front end to bleed properly
This is one thing I do enjoy about my steep driveway. But Ray is in Florida, where elevation changes are not.
Just do this.... Put the heater on blast on the highest/warmest mode.... Nox the airbubbels straight out the system.
Could also be that there was nothing wrong with the radiator and the coolant had leaked out through the broken connector. They replaced the radiator because it was "obviously" leaking.
Cant the radiator if its not leaking from there.
The rad may have been leaking (the tanks on the things are the same material as that connector), and so legit needed to be replaced. That plastic piece could very well have been not even leaking if the rad/cap was letting the system not build pressure. Once those were replaced, the system built pressure for once in a long while, and the joint finally just spectacularly gave up the ghost on the drive home. So it could very well have been completely a unforeseeable issue from the outset.
@@GReaper that’s a good point. The radiator leaking prevented full system pressure and once repaired, the next weak point let go.
@@jeffh4505 it couldve been a small leak and didnt appear until the engine is warmed up under load
@@ryanravencaller sure. But really it's all speculation. There's several plausible possibilities.
As a tech I would have advised the customer that I did not see any reason to blame the other shop and that there would have been no way they could have foreseen the second incident. I'm just not seeing any way that would have been the case. Good on you for not jumping to conclusions on the pesky air bleed moments. Lucky for me I had a four gas and could check for CO and know if it was combustion leaking into the cooling system or not. Not all shops have access to a three or four gas machine and in today's world they are really pretty much un needed but handy if you have an old one laying around sometimes.
Have yourself a GREAT DAY Ray love your content 😊
Probably something that happened after they left the shop. That plastic was brittle and could have just given way. If it was leaking, I am sure the tech would have noticed the coolant on the ground and investigated since he just refilled the system.
I suspect the plastic had already gone brittle and because they didn't purge the air out of the cooling system it overheated and that was the final straw.
Bunch of different possibilities. It does have a newish radiator cap on it. The old one may have not held a decent amount of pressure. Throw a new one on with the radiator job and its working properly again. Then the brittle plastic fitting lets go.
the hose was not leaking when it got to ray---it was completely broken into. can't imagine the shop missing the gush of coolant landing under the car...so I'm not thinking they should be blamed IMHO
Amazing you/she dodged the blown head gasket bullet on this one. Aluminum heads at freeway speeds--don't take a lot of hey there's no coolant in the engine! There's a old myth that if your engine is over heating drive it 10 mph to get home or the nearest Rainman repair shop, don't do it!!! Pull over shut the car off and call your handyman husband/dad or ?? You'll save your self about $1000+
Cannot go 10 mph with aluminum heads and block .... i used to drive with heater full blast to get home ...iron engine back then
Thanks for the update!
Absolutely love your vids. Look forward to them.
Sounds like this could be the reason of her being told she needed the new radiator.
great video Ray curious why throughout all of the videos I've watched, no customer has replaced failed hood lift supports
They never open their own hood, it doesn't effect them so they don't really care.
Why spend the money on something that doesn't really matter? As seen here, shops have the means to deal with it, so no biggie even then.
Buy the cheap china props .. how often do you open the hood
@@nickmalone3143 why waste the money? You're bound to see a length of 2x4 somewhere... that's free and will do the job just as well. Lol.
Very good video. It was both educational and entertaining. (as always) I loved the air gun. Would be cool if it would pulse and perhaps a laser pointer.
My old Jeep, 2004 was losing coolant from 4 years ago when I bought it and it turned out to be a bad radiator cap, whew relief:-)
The question that occurs to me is: if another shop did the work, and it failed on the way home, why did they involve a second shop to begin with?
In case the initial shop did something on purpose.
They probably wanted a second opinion….to make sure the first shop didn’t pull some shenanigans……just what @carnaxis said…
@Nathan Z Solomon Problems occur in every business. It's not the problem that upsets the customer, but how you fix the problem for them. If they missed/didn't check something and then covered the cost of their omission, I would still stay with them as a customer...every time!
Maybe the other shop was a ways away. Didn't want the long distance towing cost
@Nathan Z Solomon My boy it's not about "the shop" it's about WHO worked on your car
LOL! I have never seen an air gun with a picatinny rail and a red dot! 🤣Did you have to fill out a Form 4473 on that? 😁
I just hope it's not a "ghost" airgun or the AFT may be showing up.
LMAO. He actually did a video of him doing the mod.
I'm curious about what the MOA is or is it just spray and pray
If you drain the oil and coolant comes out of the oil pan before the comes out you will know it has a blown head gasket.
@@SpyderRTL2022 If you've got minute of deer it's all good!
Great Job
You Are The Man!
Making People
Lives Better.
Godspeed Brother
I know you did a good job. Other wise I won't be here as do a lot of us. Love your channel. It's not perfect but learned a lot.
I would have gone 50/50% on this repair with the place that did the radiator.
lol everyone wants to get rich off of someone else’s dime, there will be no sharing happening here
Would that be as if you were the owner / customer sharing the cost? If so kudos to you 👍.
Either way, Ray's shop is getting paid by the original shop.
@@unclegreybeard3969 Yes, as the owner of the car I would pay half of the cost.
Although the blown-gun is awesome, my OCD can’t cope with everything swirling around… I’d be using a vacuum… Have a nice day Ray!
I can't stand seeing leaves gather up all around the top area like that. That tells me the owner never looks at the motor or cares about it until something breaks.
Hey Ray, here's a quick tip for using the funnel. Give the upper radiator hose a little squeeze as you put the plug in the funnel, that eliminates the small bit of spillage when you remove the funnel. 👍🏻
ok that was funny on my end was thinking is fan working and not 5 seconds later you are saying the fan is working. btw I enjoy all your videos
Not blown up it still runs it has a leaking head gasket. Why don’t you use head gasket tester with the dye that changes color with CO2 present.
Because he's incompetent? Lazy ? Or both
Hi Ray! as a young up and coming mechanic I have a genuine question for you.
how often do you get cases like this where it takes the cooling system almost 2 days to complete bleeding? also what was your thought process that stopped you from running the chemical block test sooner?
if I spent the latter part of a day trying to bleed the cooling system and I kept getting bubbles, I would have done the head gasket chemical test alot sooner.
I genuinely haven't seen a cooling system take this many tries or this long to completely bleed out.
please do educate me, I look upto you alot when it comes to diag and repair work. it's amazing and everything I thought a mechanic should be growing up.
i believe a chemical test on head gasket is a wise decision.
Probably just a slow day..
Probably, the end of the day so he left it until the next day instead of waiting for it to cool down. Once the system was full and had no air in the system, it maintained temperature so there was no reason for further testing.
It shouldn’t take two days, but this one was at the end of the day (I actually stayed late) But the system did like going through a cool down cycle, loads of air had escaped by morning
@@RainmanRaysRepairs that makes alot of sense to me now. Thanks! Much love from sri lanka
Hey ray if you squeeze the radiator hose before you plug the funnel you wont spill a si gle drop while removing it. Plus the coolant eont be right at the mouth of the radiator so when you put the cap it wont spill.👍👍 great videos, im a mechanic myself here in florida and enjoy watching someone else fixing and doing diags 😂🤣💪💪
We All Need a Good Mechanic like You or Scotty...
Ray , everyone knows that you can't hose down an engine like that . Those points inside the distributor cap could get wet .
Points ? Are you serious bro ? You still buy leaded gas ? Lol
@@chuckles3295 It was a joke . How many cars today run off a set of points inside a distributor cap ?
@@nickmalone3143 Come on people . It was a joke . That is why I said points . Points haven't been used since 1974 .
I have always wondered about where the idea that hosing the engine down while running is a "known" no-no. When driving in the rain the engine gets plenty of spray into the compartment, so what is the problem?. I can understand the older points engines but not the newer sealed systems.
Yes water gets in the engine bay but not as much as washing it down, it honestly comes down to if you want do it but keep in mind there's sensors and electrical components try to not get them super soaked lmao
The only real issue would be the exhaust manifold. Cast iron manifolds may crack if you dowse them at full operating temp.
I was told to never high pressure wash the engine bay due to the pressure pushing water into crevices and areas where it doesn't belong. It's why they put hoods on them. I never wash my engine anyway. Never made sense to me. It's like washing the treads of your tires. Why bother? I'll wipe off some oil or fluid overflow, but that's about it.
@@GReaper This happened to me many years ago, cracked the exhaust manifold. I wouldn't spray a hot engine.
@@GReaper yeah? What about all the connections in the harness.....
Excellent work 👍 enjoyed this video on my vacation.
A lot of shops will break things as they work on things in order to make you come back so they can sell you more repairs. Local car dealership did that to me. Put a block of wood under my pedal and then put the format back down and then tried to charge me to figure out why my car wouldn't accelerate after an oil change. Thank you Cadillac
Thats a new one i havent heard... ussually they just pull a fuse for sabatage
Dang it Ray, in the last video you had us watching you pour liquid, this video you have us watching bubbles appear. What's next, are you going to have us stare at the turn signals to watch for blinker fluid leaks?
Business must be slow
Hot DAMN, that funnel gizmo! Seriously digging on your tactical assault air blower with optics!
I never had a problem until I would have to get on the freeway. Hope that test drive included highway. I’m sure it did ray! 👍👍👍
Ray you didn't read my earlier comment... Squeeze the upper hose, insert funnel plug, remove funnel. No mess no fuss!
You always do your best, thank you!
Still the coolest air gun I've ever seen
Good over look for any possible problems.
A side note: On SMA this morning his phone rang and Mr. O says doodley doodley do. :)