How to Adjust the Emergency Brake on a Nissan Xterra
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- čas přidán 2. 11. 2015
- This video demonstrates adjusting the emergency brake on the second generation Nissan Xterra. This vehicle is a 2005.
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**This video is being performed by an experienced individual. Any attempt to repair automotive parts or its systems carries risk of personal injury. Always follow safe practices when working on vehicles such as using safety glasses, jack stands, not wearing loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied by these videos. Use the information in this video at your own risk. If you don't think you can perform the job then do not attempt it.
#howto #diy #auto - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very good video....Great job. Just to let you know...the hole in front of the rotor....between two of the wheel stud holes is made to adjust the brakes shoes without having to remove the rotor. Just use a flat tip screwdriver...enter in the hole and pry between the tabs....its a bit tedious but great for that final adjustment....without having to remove the rotor constantly. Thank you for sharing :o)
davegoud, I have heard this option before. Now, shouldn’t the “e-brake” adjust automatically for wear? I was thinking that maybe he didn’t had to get in the back rotors at all... mine has the same problem. The e-brake does not stop the car as it should and I’m forced to rely on the “P” shift witch don’t trust.
davegoud
That’s something new..... thanks
Even though this is a 2 years thread
@@mariorodriguez653 my 1996 Nissan truck had auto-adjusting spreaders like you are describing. My 2011 Xterra does not. I don't know why Nissan did away with it.
I thought the same thing until I replaced my parking brake shoes last night. Turns out the caliper is positioned over top of the adjuster so there is no adjusting with a screw driver without removing the caliper. If you go to the hassle of removing a caliper you might as well pull the rotor off.
@@mariorodriguez653 No automatic adjustment on these Xterras. You must do this procedure.
Loved the use of dual cameras and the 16x speed-up. Well done.
Still very helpful after 5 years, thanks for the video! My comments: on my 2011 XTerra it was quite easy to adjust the rear brake shoes through the hole in the drum, there was no need at all to remove the calipers. So unless you really need/want to remove the rotor/drum to inspect the brake shoe lining, try adjusting through the hole in the drum supplied for this purpose. In the video he appears to back off only one click on the adjuster after the brakes began to drag but the manual calls for 5 or 6 clicks. I backed off 6 clicks and that seemed to work fine. Regarding the adjuster at the hand lever, the shop manual spec calls for 44.1 lb-f to move the hand brake lever 6-8 notches. If you hook a luggage scale onto the first finger notch at the end of the lever, that is only 10" from the axis of rotation so you need to multiply your reading by 1.2 to get the lb-f value, so look for a value of 52.9 lb on the scale. At this adjustment my parking brake would begin to drag at the first hand lever notch, so I backed off some from this spec. Mine are now adjusted to start to drag on the third notch which still provides plenty of brake to hold the car on a steep hill well before the end of lever travel.
It’s really great that guys like you take the time to make a video. Truly helps people!
It's my pleasure, thanks for watching. 👍🏻
Thanks. Great instructions. FYI - rear caliper bracket bolts 76 ft-lbs. Good to use torque specs when reassembling (I just do a search from my phone when in the shop). You might add a comment about when placing the rotor back on, ensure you line up the sight hole for the drum adjustor "star". I know you did not use it for the video but it makes future adjustments possible without removing the brake rotor.
thank you much. I have the exact same vehicle and will be taking care of this issue this weekend. Very good demonstration.
Thanks for making this video! I was up at 20 clicks, but I was able to get it down to 13 with just tightening the nut under the cup holders as far as it can go. I'll finish the job correctly next time I replace my brake pads.
Love your videos, it really helps with my 2006 xterra. Thank you for taking the time to film them
My pleasure! Just glad to help people! Thanks for watching.
We've had our 2007 XTerra now since 2008. Just like yours, it's starting to show some wear and I find myself doing more and more little projects to keep it in good shape. Thanks for the videos. Keep 'em coming, they're a great help.
+John Anderson Glad ya like!
Ryan you never cease to impress and amaze. Thanks for helping me keep my X on the road!
My pleasure, thanks so much for watching man!
Just finished the emergency brake adjustment in my Xterra and boy what a difference! I set it a bit on the tighter side (10 clicks) Also found out that axle seal needs replacing as well. Appreciate the video man thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!!
your vids rock man, thanks for the time to share the knowledge. Best vibes from mexico city
💪🏻🤘🏻
Thanks for this. Very helpful.
And great video and instruction, by the way. Time to replace my rear pads anyway.
Thank you excellent vidio on parking brake adjustment with clear images and good sound
Glad you liked it!
Legit video. Thanks
Thanks for the video! Gave me the confidence to do this myself :-)
Awesome!
Thank you for these videos, they were a HUGE help!! Just effectively replaced my rear rotor, brake shoes, and rear brake pads. Just one problem, I adjusted the brake shoe adjuster to about what my old brake shoes were at but I'm experiencing a bit of sliding using the e-brake, nothing like the old brake shoes which stopped me right away. After playing with the e-brake a bit more it felt like my Xterra stopped faster with some noisy friction but less sliding, so I'm wondering if I just need to break the new parts in a little more before going back in and actually removing everything to readjust?
Great video. Done well
Will be doing this tomorrow. Nice video thank you
+Alex Guzman hope it goes well!
Thaks Man, this is exactly what I needed. I really appreciate it!
Glad it helped!
Doing this this afternoon! Thanks for the video!
You're welcome, hope it goes well!
Super great explanation.
+Dag Blix thanks!
Great Job. Thanks For The Info,
+J.R Rios Thanks! Hope it helped.
$140 was the quotes to do this. Thanks to you, it's not worth $140. Easy to do when I flip my brake pads.
Thanks man! 👍👍👍
ok thank you so much
The holes in the drums are so you can adjust the brakes without taking callipers and drum off. The only thing to remember which way to run the screws. As I can see on your video the passenger side the screw needs to be turned clockwise to spread the pads. On the driver side the screw needs to be turned counter-clockwise to spread the pads. I hope I saw that correct :)
+ahtoh1 Yea I tried that on one side before shooting the video and found the hole to be too small to be useful. Since it was so easy to take it on and off I just decided to do that.
@@Rythecarguy Then you have the added benefit of being able to clean out any crud and check the wear of the pad as well
Thanks
huge help!
gald you like it!
Also check for broken tabs on the calipers abutment clips
Used your video this weekend to replace my parking brake shoes. My emergency brake is MUCH better but it still won't hold on steep inclines. Are there any other adjustment points to get more pressure on the rotors?
great video.
Thank you! I'm glad you like it.
Quick question I have just changed everything pads, rotors, shoes, hardware. I now have a squeak I didn't have before I'm 95% sure its come from the shoes. I have watched your video done everything the same. Brakes work and feel great just a squeak when driving at low speeds after releasing the brake pedal. My parking brake feels fine. I've tried re adjusting the shoes probably 5 times now, and cannot seem to get rid of the squeak completely. Any ideas?? @ry the car guy
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank you!!
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
What is the purpose of having the entire rear end off the ground? So that the rear axle rotates, allowing you to properly adjust the parking brake? Since I am unable to do that, using a caliper (measuring tool) to measure the inside of the drum and comparing it to the outside of the pads should suffice?
Really though good vids
Thanks! 👍🏻
@2:34 "...put the car in reverse to keep it from moving forward..." If this isn't 4x4 with 4H or 4L engaged, that's not going to do you any good. I didn't see the 4H selector on your dashboard. What I do when I lift the ass is put it in 4L and Park which locks the front wheels AND I use chocks.
Yes, the majority of these trucks are 4x4 so I tend to make videos as if mine was too. Thanks.
Nice video. Thanks. Looks like the axle seal on the driver's side is leaking. That's a very common problem on these and is likely why there was so much gunk on that side.
Yea, I think so. But I really don't want to deal with that lol.
do u know if this is the same method for the pathfinder. Their almost identical ...
Put a solid block of wood between the jack pad and differential to help protect it from metal to metal damage.
2nd!
Eye spy 6spd manual goodness right there!
You know it!
Thank you for the information I saved 200 dollars by your video.And I am no mechanic.
Glad it helped!
Thank you man. I have the same problem. too loose..
Luckily it's a pretty simple fix 😃
There should be an adjustment nut under the handle. 10mm i believe.
Thanks for video and information, very good. My 2006 goes to 11 to 13 clicks with good resistance and I cannot move the car. Does that mean they are OK?
Yea you should be fine. You could just tighten the handle a bit if you didn't want to pull the lever as far.
Will this also work with a 2011
Be nice to see a video of this adjustment on a 2001 as there is over 6spots that have tobe adjusted to make it work
Oh dang, really?
Great video! Why is it necessary to loosen the nut inside the passenger cabin?
That nut determines where the handle is in relation to the brake shoes. So if you have to pull the handle back all the way and it barely engages the brake then you need to adjust it.
Good job on the video. I have a frontier and i suspect the procedure is exactly the same.
If it’s a similar year than yea for sure.
Ry the car guy I have a 2012 actually.
I noticed that on my frontier regardless of what side you’re working on, if you turn the star wheel towards the back of the truck you’re always making the emergency brake tighter to the rotor. Towards the front of the truck makes it more loose.
if you have a brake pedal instead? all you need is to
re-tight the nut above the brake pedal.
you will need a deep socket size 10. and turn it clockwise
Thanks Ry! I have a 2010 Xterra, would the hand brake adjustment be the same as 2005?
Yep!! 👍🏻 you're welcome!
Just wondering. I don't know much about this sort of stuff and want to try this job. So my question: if you snugged the nut in the center console, under the cup holder, to tighten the parking brake, would this be sufficient to improve the performance of the parking brake? Or you still have to go to the rear wheel and do the adjustment there?
You have to adjust the drum brakes. The nut under the cup holders will not adjust the pads.
is this for The Nissan frontier 2012
Do you need to replace your e brake shoes and hardware any time you replace the rear rotors and pads?
ehhhhh, I mean you probably should do it all in one shot, but you dont have to if they shoes are in great shape and everything is working fine.
I have pedal emergencia brake... it's some work???
Nissan actually had a screw on lever (kinda like a screw jack) configuration to depress the rear piston on the 240sx. Why couldn't have done it here? Other cars I've owned had automatic adjustment methods. One of the best SUV's has the worst parking brake configuration.
+MavHunter20XX Agreed. Its a little old school
Hey! I’m having difficulty making changes to my car. Is there anyway we can exchange emails to get your full support ? Thanks
Y'all see that big hole in the drum? That is access for adjusting the parking break without removing the rotor.
Did you leave the ebrake on when adjusting the brake with the mechanism?
No sir. Leave it off.
There should be a hole in the rotor where the wheel mates to it. There you can make the adjustment to the park brake shoes without taking off the rotor. That would also save you on taking off the caliper too. (@ 7:30 look at the extra hole on the rotor. ) You can see an example here czcams.com/video/e44Q9xMo3z0/video.htmlsi=XcJzOSUgfVawoShp&t=56
U need to cycle the handbrake operation for best fit adjustment
hi i did the same thing as you did but after the TPMS light for the tire pressure came on .Is that normal?And how do i make it go away? ty.
+Dominique Sleczka did you turn the truck on while the tire was off? It might have searched for the TPMS sensor and not found it
I recommend that you check your (1) tire pressure; (2) un-plug the battery; (3) reconnect the battery and (4) go drive for like five miles.
Where do I find that nut for a Nissan frontier 03 truck
Not sure on the first gen's. Sorry
Wow what a job, a royal pain in da a..
It's to Toooo bad 😉
why did you need to remove the calipers? rotors have that extra hole so you can just adjust the ebrake.
see below
And grind off the wear lip on the inner edge of the drum
I've been trying to adjust mine, but the nut on the cable won't move. It spins freely in place, but it doesn't advance up or down, so I can't get it off of the bolt, let alone loosen it. I've tried applying pressure from below and heating the nut, but no joy. Any thoughts on how I could remove it?
See if you can pick up some of the slack in the handle as opposed to at the caliper?
@@Rythecarguy It was the nut at the handle that wouldn't move, so there was no way to adjust the slack at that end. I ended up just cutting it off
my emergency brake is soft it goes to 16 clips and if i leave it in like 12 vehicle will roll so i have to pull 4 more clips to make vehicle not to move.but sometimes i think the car is going to roll and i put on number 1gear i have a manual 05 xterra also. shut i just tie the screw under the cup holders or that shut not fix the problem? what do you recommended me to do thanks. the vehicle has 150xxx miles i don't think the emergency pads been ever adjustment before.
You need to adjust the actual brake shoes on the rear brakes. If the pads are very low you should replace those too.
There's a hole in the disk/rotor to do the adjustment without removing the disk/rotor...
Correct.
I did all the steps for a 05 and the handle was so loose like a hooker I was not able to adjust it from the 10 mm screw handle it that turn but does nothing??
Then get new pads and adjust in the rear, then adjust the handle.
Isn't that what the hole on the rotor is for?
So you don't have to remove them?
Yep. I just hate sticking a tool through there
The “ASS END” ? Lol
Never heard of the ass end of something? Must be a midwesterner thing.
Shouldn't you thinking of changing the pads?
+Oscar Barrera separate video.
+Ry the car guy awesome just subscribed
Ha, ha. Saw "79K" on your rear diff in JUNK-YARD YELLOW! Classic Xterra/Pathfinder/Frontier fail! Where do you plan on getting your THIRD rear-end? That is if your radiator has not destroyed your tansmission yet.
Well, I didn’t replace that rear end and I have a manual transmission. So no tranny cooler = no radiator leak problems. So I guess to answer your question I would get a rear end from the same place the last owner presumably did (a junkyard) more than a half decade ago.
I sense a little butt hurt!? SMOD is easily handled and well known how to prevent it. Fact is these are tough little trucks and compared to any domestic offering an outstanding value.
Didn't help at all...
Please stop over-using the word 'actual/actually'.
Actually I’m going to continue doing that.
Alright, fella. If that's what makes you happy...
is this for The Nissan frontier 2012
is this for The Nissan frontier 2012
+humberto gaburel it should be the same.