Sounds like the bike shop chose to fire the parts canon at your bike rather than ride it for a while and do a proper diagnosis. Derailleur hanger and making sure the shifter cable (and shifter) isn't binding would've been the first places to start. WD-40 isn't a lube, it's for displacing water. You need a foul weather lube for your derailleur's lubrication points, along with cleaning your chain properly and often in the winter. Just a few thoughts, though your result was helpful to know.
You are exactly right. Next winter I will remove derailleur every few weeks to clean with wd40, soap and water then lube pivot points with wet chain lube. Thanks for caring @YippeeSkippie426
Thanks for the 'share', and 10/10 for persistence! You've learned some important lessons, there. Most important being 'make sure the damn thing is clean'! Big likes from the UK!
I had a situation this week where i had either the low gears clicking or the high gears clicking depending on how i had it indexed. I had a new derailleur, cassette, chain and shifter. After much adjustments with no success i threw in the towel and went to bed. Well, it had me frustrated and i couldn't sleep so it occurred to me that i never checked the derailleur hanger. I got up and went and checked it and sure as hell it was slightly bent towards the spokes. After bending it back straight, it shifts as smooth as silk. Lesson learned. Check my hanger first. 😂
Nice work. I've used Boeshield T9 to lubricate derailleur pivot points. After a season of riding, especially winter riding I'll do a full bike teardown and deep clean. I had some minor issues with a front derailleur that I bought used and lubing the pivot points did the trick.
Sounds like your doing the right thing. Riding in winter demands more maintenance it seems. I changed my hub and now some weird metal on metal rubbing so I'll pop it back out and grease it up some more! Nothing better than riding a properly working bike with zero issues :)
Hey, I think your WD-40 trick worked on my Trek 950 today. I took up some steep hills and had no problems with 2,3 and 4 on the rear cassette. It had been driving me crazy after a new chain, crankset (2 of 3) and a new rear cassette.
I had the same problem. Skipping in 9th (my highest gear). Cleaning everything fixed it. There was a ton of grime on the derailleur pulleys and on the cassette.
Oh man I've had this similar iasue haunting one of my bikes for a long time now..only yhr low gears and put weight it slips through. The upper gears all all sem fine. I did once have a major incident where the rear deralieur got bent into the spokes after hitting a branch on the gravel path. Changed that out and things were ok for a while - i thought. But i can torally understand the approach of checking worn gears, chain , chainrings.. I cope it comes down to that vital fine tuning / cleaning and freeing up the whip effect as youve pointed out - Thanks for the video & describing the issues you had! I'm gona give this some more effort before I just sell the damn thing :)
@@Shiloh-Selah Totally agree! I've already learnt a whole lot more about derailleurs since commenting.. I've stripped and serviced my Shimano XT M 771 discovering the stopper/ spring tensioner on the B knuckle is trashed.. may be part of the issue I am experiencing but even if not the cause, I learnt a whole lot about how the damn thung works ;)
Well my chain is skipping when I put some more weight on pedal (But only if chain is on middle gear in front) and I didn't wash my bike since I got it even tho I bike through rain, mud, sand, puddles and snow
I thought his chain is not close enough to the cog. Then a little bit restricted movement from gunk, and that might have caused the jumping. I am grateful he put this up, I will now check and lube mine, too. I neglected it.
@@Shiloh-Selah Yup. i could tell you were out in the cold. Obviously, this person has no idea how it feels like to be out in the cold of the North. Thanks for sharing the tips
That housing cable looks pretty flukey mate. it should come out of the rear fork arm more or less straight for the first 1/2 inch and then there should be enough cable such that it bends up quite a bit in the large gear, and flattens out in the small gear (on the cassette). On the video, it looks like you don't have a cable ferrel to attach / slide over the cable itself before it enters the fork hole. i mention it not because it might have caused your shifting issue up and down the gear cluster, but that the friction at the point where the shifting cable goes into the cable housing looks like it would make thumb shifting quite hard. just take a look and see if you can straighten that cable out just a bit so that it looks like a smoother transition.
Keith that's great insight. the original reason to bring to the shop was the housing because I hadn't attempted that job before. Seeing your tips makes me want to try rehousing it for myself. Thanks!
hense the lemon idea because the question was at what point do I stop buying parts. Lesson learned keep the bike cleaned even if it means once a week degreaser and soap and water then re lube
Very little bike shop in Ireland small-town fixing bikes there closing down to much cost you have parts tool fixing your self no money during winter time
Mine did this. I took off the derailleur and bypassed it for diagnostics purposes. Tried peddling again and it actually skipped. Exactly as you say.. I haven't figured out a solution. But at least i seen it jump. Then i put the derailleur and regular chain back. Knowing thst wasnt the issue. I use the bafang kit. Mine didnt skip for a month. Now it does . But anyways. I pushed the front wheel onto a wall and pushed the peddle. i seen it skiping jumping
Wow. Like many comments below I’d first find a different bike shop - the mechanic was either not very competent or that is how they pad their profit. I believe many of us have had skipping chain problems and if a simple derailleur adjustment does not solve it, in my experience it’s usually a worn, fraying cable, sticky worn out cable housing or something as simple as the cable bolt is loose, allowing the cable to slip ever so slightly but enough to cause skipping.
Great points on the cables. That’s why I brought the bike in. Supposed to be one trip where they changed the cables but turned into multiple trips into the shop and hundreds of dollars with no resolve. I bought cables and housing to be prepared for next time it may happen but I will ALWAYS start with a good cleaning out of the derailleur. Thank you for your comments.
laughed so hard reading this @kenneth colbert hahaha thanks! this bike has never been taken advantage of so hard hahahahaha. I'll avoid em if I can now!! 😭
nice, and how much costs your negligence of chain maintenance? btw if you properly maintain chain it would lasts very long and if you replace it on time your cassette and ring gears would last 7-10 chains and then you should just to reshape teeth and game will start from beginning, so just chain replacement
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
Yep it's great for this stuff though. Just need to remember to follow up afterwards with an oil, you can get penetrating oil too if needed. However if it's not seized go straight for the oil and avoid the WD-40
@@Shiloh-Selahjust a tip from a bike mechanic never put wd40 on after lube also if a bike shop is doing that before a professional diagnosis don’t let them work on your bike
Are you sure you have no clutch? XT Deores all the models I've looked at do? Clutch doesn't spring it back, it more holds it in place after the shift, gets looser during the shift. However I don't have one, just my understanding I've gathered from research. Your smallest rings do look extremely worn to me but maybe that was a bad angle. However probably aren't helping the situation. Ghost shifting and chain slipping are 2 different problems, even though they seem the same. I'm guessing you've improved the situation, not solved it. Try measuring chain ring for wear and finding your derailleur model to confirm if it does indeed have a clutch, if it happens again. The bike isn't a lemon, it can be fixed, the shop you took it to and failed to fix it is the lemon however.
Further info after fixing my own chain slip. Turns out modern cassettes have slopes to help change gears quicker so less likely his issue is wear, neither was mine. I have an older Shimano derailleur and I found a manual online that told how to install and position and adjust. There's a lot to it. I went from slipping on only light pedaling in the highest gear to cranking down as hard as I could with brakes up hill with zero slip. B screw just needed to be backed out fully and mounting angle needed to be reset and tightened the mounting bolt. Went from worst bike I've had to best. Definitely try to find the manual if you can, you can learn a bunch :)
Wd40 will actually destroy a chain. It says it right on the can! The reason it stopped skipping is probably because the chain needs shortening and it's over lubricated and you washed off the excess oil with the Wd40.
I'll clarify that I sprayed WD 40 into the derraileur pivot point not the chain. thanks for that tho, cause I probably did get on the chain in the process LOL
for most of this video, it sure sounded like the H limiter screw and the fine tuning on the derailleur barrel adjuster. You're right about there could be another chain tensioner needed for a very big gear cluster, but that's not what you have. that new rear D should be all that you need for tensioning. czcams.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/video.html
i got an xcaliber 9, and my chain started skipping a week ago. Only when i push hard on the pedal, or put my weight while standing. and only on the small cog. Pretty annoying, especially when you're commuting, stop at a light and when you pedal to go when its green.... IT SKIP. KACLUNK ill check what youre pointing out, i cant afford to change a whole derailleur and cog system right now.
@papagodzilla5465 You described the situation exactly! I would change the parts from least expensive part to most expensive after taking things apart and ensuring they are all thoroughly degreased, and cleaned with soap and water to get the degreaser off changing the cassette and chain should fix it if your derailer hanger isn’t bent, but if all those checks don’t solve the problem, you may need a new rear derailer. In that case, I suggest a derailer that has a clutch so it can pull the chain tighter when it bounces around. The xcaliber must be a joke that trek
Mine just started doing the same. Strange because I didn't remove derailleur and chain is in one side and out as it connects to spokes. Not sure, may have to try out my warranty repair. I have till October.
@@Shiloh-Selah found out my problem yesterday. that derailleur has a fragile part, its talon d'achille in some sort. Its the derailleur hanger, the small part that connects directly to the frame. if by accident you hit the derailleur while riding or falling down, this part can slightly bend upon shock. its very hard to see with only your eye, by with a proper tool its pretty clear. Good news, you can unbend it easily (but with caution), or even change it for a minor cost. (i think its around 30 canadian dollar) i honestly couldnt see the bend without the tool. Hope it can help someone.
@@Premaire hey check my previous reply, just in case you missed it. i had mine fixed and it was pretty hard to see without a specific maintenance tool. Maybe you got a similar problem and it can be fixed.
Thanks for sharing you just saved me $100 in replacement parts because I would've done all the costly repairs you did
Sounds like the bike shop chose to fire the parts canon at your bike rather than ride it for a while and do a proper diagnosis.
Derailleur hanger and making sure the shifter cable (and shifter) isn't binding would've been the first places to start.
WD-40 isn't a lube, it's for displacing water. You need a foul weather lube for your derailleur's lubrication points, along with cleaning your chain properly and often in the winter.
Just a few thoughts, though your result was helpful to know.
You are exactly right. Next winter I will remove derailleur every few weeks to clean with wd40, soap and water then lube pivot points with wet chain lube. Thanks for caring @YippeeSkippie426
You ride a bike in winter without proper mudgaurds? You must enjoy wearing wet clothes ! 😂
Thanks for the 'share', and 10/10 for persistence! You've learned some important lessons, there. Most important being 'make sure the damn thing is clean'! Big likes from the UK!
Thanks for the encouragement 😊
@@Shiloh-Selah S’no problem. Gotta keep those pedals turning!
I had a situation this week where i had either the low gears clicking or the high gears clicking depending on how i had it indexed. I had a new derailleur, cassette, chain and shifter. After much adjustments with no success i threw in the towel and went to bed. Well, it had me frustrated and i couldn't sleep so it occurred to me that i never checked the derailleur hanger. I got up and went and checked it and sure as hell it was slightly bent towards the spokes. After bending it back straight, it shifts as smooth as silk. Lesson learned. Check my hanger first. 😂
The DWD worked on my shifters that wasn't even clicking! Good job!
Make sure your derailleur hanger isn't bent and you didn't need a new front derailleur if your chain is skipping
Shop totally took advantage of him. Sold an entire drivetrain for a barrel adjustment
Nice work. I've used Boeshield T9 to lubricate derailleur pivot points. After a season of riding, especially winter riding I'll do a full bike teardown and deep clean. I had some minor issues with a front derailleur that I bought used and lubing the pivot points did the trick.
Sounds like your doing the right thing. Riding in winter demands more maintenance it seems. I changed my hub and now some weird metal on metal rubbing so I'll pop it back out and grease it up some more! Nothing better than riding a properly working bike with zero issues :)
bummer you spent all that dough, but at least you learned a lot. This will probably save you $$ in the long-run.
always check the tiny screw that holds the deraillieur hanger to the frame
Hey, I think your WD-40 trick worked on my Trek 950 today. I took up some steep hills and had no problems with 2,3 and 4 on the rear cassette. It had been driving me crazy after a new chain, crankset (2 of 3) and a new rear cassette.
Great news! Back to havin’ some fun!
I had the same problem. Skipping in 9th (my highest gear). Cleaning everything fixed it. There was a ton of grime on the derailleur pulleys and on the cassette.
My chain up and down problem was dry new chain but oil chain stop on spot jumping gear up down mostly no oil new chains
Oh man I've had this similar iasue haunting one of my bikes for a long time now..only yhr low gears and put weight it slips through. The upper gears all all sem fine. I did once have a major incident where the rear deralieur got bent into the spokes after hitting a branch on the gravel path. Changed that out and things were ok for a while - i thought. But i can torally understand the approach of checking worn gears, chain , chainrings.. I cope it comes down to that vital fine tuning / cleaning and freeing up the whip effect as youve pointed out - Thanks for the video & describing the issues you had!
I'm gona give this some more effort before I just sell the damn thing :)
Don't give up. You're doing the right thing by trying your options. You shouldn't have to part ways with it. Good luck
@@Shiloh-Selah Totally agree! I've already learnt a whole lot more about derailleurs since commenting.. I've stripped and serviced my Shimano XT M 771 discovering the stopper/ spring tensioner on the B knuckle is trashed.. may be part of the issue I am experiencing but even if not the cause, I learnt a whole lot about how the damn thung works ;)
needed that. thanks
Thanks I have a similar problem I think it’s the free hub slipping though
Well my chain is skipping when I put some more weight on pedal (But only if chain is on middle gear in front) and I didn't wash my bike since I got it even tho I bike through rain, mud, sand, puddles and snow
That last screw he mentioned controls chain wrap, a critical factor here. He needs a lot of wrap for that tiny high gear cog.
I thought his chain is not close enough to the cog. Then a little bit restricted movement from gunk, and that might have caused the jumping. I am grateful he put this up, I will now check and lube mine, too. I neglected it.
Take a breath bud Jesus!
haha ya sorry, think it was the cold, pushing the pedals hard to test it and maybe combined with a runny nose. Hope I saved somebody some trouble
@@Shiloh-Selah Yup. i could tell you were out in the cold. Obviously, this person has no idea how it feels like to be out in the cold of the North. Thanks for sharing the tips
You've obviously never been out biking in the cold, huh?
So spray it with WD40. Got it!
That housing cable looks pretty flukey mate. it should come out of the rear fork arm more or less straight for the first 1/2 inch and then there should be enough cable such that it bends up quite a bit in the large gear, and flattens out in the small gear (on the cassette).
On the video, it looks like you don't have a cable ferrel to attach / slide over the cable itself before it enters the fork hole.
i mention it not because it might have caused your shifting issue up and down the gear cluster, but that the friction at the point where the shifting cable goes into the cable housing looks like it would make thumb shifting quite hard. just take a look and see if you can straighten that cable out just a bit so that it looks like a smoother transition.
Keith that's great insight. the original reason to bring to the shop was the housing because I hadn't attempted that job before. Seeing your tips makes me want to try rehousing it for myself. Thanks!
Does it really count as a fix if you just replaced everything? I mean in that sense I 'fixed' my crappy VW Jetta. I sold it and bought a Honda.
hense the lemon idea because the question was at what point do I stop buying parts. Lesson learned keep the bike cleaned even if it means once a week degreaser and soap and water then re lube
Very little bike shop in Ireland small-town fixing bikes there closing down to much cost you have parts tool fixing your self no money during winter time
I have this problem. Thought i have the wrong chain. The chain would climb up the teeth and fall back. Ill lubricate it n see. Thanks!!
Check to make sure your gears are indexed properly as well. czcams.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/video.html
Mine did this. I took off the derailleur and bypassed it for diagnostics purposes. Tried peddling again and it actually skipped. Exactly as you say.. I haven't figured out a solution. But at least i seen it jump. Then i put the derailleur and regular chain back. Knowing thst wasnt the issue. I use the bafang kit. Mine didnt skip for a month. Now it does . But anyways. I pushed the front wheel onto a wall and pushed the peddle. i seen it skiping jumping
Wow. Like many comments below I’d first find a different bike shop - the mechanic was either not very competent or that is how they pad their profit. I believe many of us have had skipping chain problems and if a simple derailleur adjustment does not solve it, in my experience it’s usually a worn, fraying cable, sticky worn out cable housing or something as simple as the cable bolt is loose, allowing the cable to slip ever so slightly but enough to cause skipping.
Great points on the cables. That’s why I brought the bike in. Supposed to be one trip where they changed the cables but turned into multiple trips into the shop and hundreds of dollars with no resolve. I bought cables and housing to be prepared for next time it may happen but I will ALWAYS start with a good cleaning out of the derailleur. Thank you for your comments.
Wow the bike shop saw you coming lol.
laughed so hard reading this @kenneth colbert hahaha thanks! this bike has never been taken advantage of so hard hahahahaha. I'll avoid em if I can now!! 😭
nice, and how much costs your negligence of chain maintenance?
btw if you properly maintain chain it would lasts very long and if you replace it on time your cassette and ring gears would last 7-10 chains and then you should just to reshape teeth and game will start from beginning, so just chain replacement
Ya wish they made the chains a bit stronger for us hard winter riders but where's the profit there!
So you fixed your chain falling with upgrading components, gotcha.
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
Yep it's great for this stuff though. Just need to remember to follow up afterwards with an oil, you can get penetrating oil too if needed.
However if it's not seized go straight for the oil and avoid the WD-40
WD40 is almost all light ends, after a couple of hours it's all evaporated.
Right so you narrowed it down to 4000 possible errors. Cool.
Hy
This is a common basic fix.
You only needed to buy the cogs you need
they are like £1.20p each
So did you fire that bike shop for selling you all that s***
Wd-40 is not a lubricant. It's a water displacement fluid, hence wd. There are much better lubricants out there.
true true. I used it to clean then a bit of chain lube after rinsing. Hope nobody takes this as a tutorial
But it also penetrates really well thats why it may have helped here is it cut into small places and cleaned it out
Great tips man, just a heads up, WD40 is just a water displacer, not a lubricant... I got the ones with PTFE and silicone too, they're awesome.
True true. After I clean with the wd40 better lube too! Thanks!
@@Shiloh-Selahjust a tip from a bike mechanic never put wd40 on after lube also if a bike shop is doing that before a professional diagnosis don’t let them work on your bike
Are you sure you have no clutch? XT Deores all the models I've looked at do?
Clutch doesn't spring it back, it more holds it in place after the shift, gets looser during the shift. However I don't have one, just my understanding I've gathered from research.
Your smallest rings do look extremely worn to me but maybe that was a bad angle. However probably aren't helping the situation.
Ghost shifting and chain slipping are 2 different problems, even though they seem the same.
I'm guessing you've improved the situation, not solved it.
Try measuring chain ring for wear and finding your derailleur model to confirm if it does indeed have a clutch, if it happens again.
The bike isn't a lemon, it can be fixed, the shop you took it to and failed to fix it is the lemon however.
Further info after fixing my own chain slip. Turns out modern cassettes have slopes to help change gears quicker so less likely his issue is wear, neither was mine.
I have an older Shimano derailleur and I found a manual online that told how to install and position and adjust. There's a lot to it.
I went from slipping on only light pedaling in the highest gear to cranking down as hard as I could with brakes up hill with zero slip. B screw just needed to be backed out fully and mounting angle needed to be reset and tightened the mounting bolt.
Went from worst bike I've had to best.
Definitely try to find the manual if you can, you can learn a bunch :)
Wd40 will actually destroy a chain. It says it right on the can!
The reason it stopped skipping is probably because the chain needs shortening and it's over lubricated and you washed off the excess oil with the Wd40.
I'll clarify that I sprayed WD 40 into the derraileur pivot point not the chain. thanks for that tho, cause I probably did get on the chain in the process LOL
Bike shop service is so overrated...
Absolutely true, they get paid enough to do their job with a smile on their face
for most of this video, it sure sounded like the H limiter screw and the fine tuning on the derailleur barrel adjuster.
You're right about there could be another chain tensioner needed for a very big gear cluster, but that's not what you have. that new rear D should be all that you need for tensioning.
czcams.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/video.html
i got an xcaliber 9, and my chain started skipping a week ago. Only when i push hard on the pedal, or put my weight while standing. and only on the small cog.
Pretty annoying, especially when you're commuting, stop at a light and when you pedal to go when its green.... IT SKIP. KACLUNK
ill check what youre pointing out, i cant afford to change a whole derailleur and cog system right now.
@papagodzilla5465 You described the situation exactly! I would change the parts from least expensive part to most expensive after taking things apart and ensuring they are all thoroughly degreased, and cleaned with soap and water to get the degreaser off changing the cassette and chain should fix it if your derailer hanger isn’t bent, but if all those checks don’t solve the problem, you may need a new rear derailer. In that case, I suggest a derailer that has a clutch so it can pull the chain tighter when it bounces around. The xcaliber must be a joke that trek
Mine just started doing the same. Strange because I didn't remove derailleur and chain is in one side and out as it connects to spokes. Not sure, may have to try out my warranty repair. I have till October.
@@Shiloh-Selah found out my problem yesterday. that derailleur has a fragile part, its talon d'achille in some sort. Its the derailleur hanger, the small part that connects directly to the frame. if by accident you hit the derailleur while riding or falling down, this part can slightly bend upon shock. its very hard to see with only your eye, by with a proper tool its pretty clear.
Good news, you can unbend it easily (but with caution), or even change it for a minor cost. (i think its around 30 canadian dollar) i honestly couldnt see the bend without the tool.
Hope it can help someone.
@@Premaire hey check my previous reply, just in case you missed it. i had mine fixed and it was pretty hard to see without a specific maintenance tool. Maybe you got a similar problem and it can be fixed.
hope you covered the disc up good.
Funny you say so cause my new problem is mineral oil spraying from disc brake piston directly onto the discs!!!