Black pipe will get surface rust on the outside, but it can be painted. I've had unpainted pipe on mine for over 40 years, and it's still solid. The concern is, and has always been, flaking off of the zinc from inside the pipe, causing problems later on in the gas valve(s). Drip legs *might* keep that from happening, but code or no code, it's wise to have that extra ounce of prevention. I would never used galvanized on LP gas.
Hey man thank you for the info. The little tricks like putting the valve inside is awesome. God bless you brother, your info may have saved me from a really bad day!
I install appliances in houses..old one dies, they get new, usually a new upgrade. Its a nightmare at times..my advise is set it up for anything...and be sure the floor print can handle it. Many of the new dual fuel ranges, especially with the two separate ovens are totally flush in the back. There may be a "pocket" for the range regulator back there...but the range till not go back to the wall as it will hit the standpipe/valve assy sticking up from the floor. AND with dual fuel ranges...you need a 220 range outlet...if that were flush on the wall you will have both the depth of the outlet plug the depth of the plug when you plug it in. This means that the range will not go all the way back and will be excessively proud of the counter tops n cabinets. I've worked with a contractor before and his solution was to install the hookups in the wall between the studs so everything can be flush as intended. There really needs to be some kind of insulation on the backside of it to help deal with heat loss as well as air infiltration if that is an exterior installation. I know this comment is prolly a bit beyond the scope of this video but these are considerations need to be taken into account as it will save an expensive as well as inconvenient rework...plumbing through sills is not fun but way worse than almost done and then...oops. range don't fit right.
You explain it very well and I work on propane vehicles a lot and generators It’s safer than gasoline and never gets old eather Just use proper pipe dope
Thanks for your comment but since my comment I've had a certified installer over who corrected the leaks as I have congestive heart failure since 2005 (from service in southeast Asia) and didn't get the connections tight enough! The owner of Morris Petroleum and helper worked on my gas line for nearly a hour and a half (never charged one penny even after I insisted he let me pay him; he is a great human being and was furious at the terrible job the first supposedly installer did or not do) and checked the new stove found the two front burners gas regulators was faulty one couldn't be lowered and the other was completely blocked!
A lot of states don't allow galvanized steel for L.p. or compression fittings. They'll work but it isn't to code in a lot states, and compression fittings can potentially be hazardous. The color of the regulators is dependent on the manufacturer so the red/green may not necessarily be the case. That tracer wire shouldn't be touching the p.e. because it can charge and literally melt right into it causing a fire. You should also have tape above your p.e. and wire.
I need to run a line from a new tank to the street for the tanker to fill. It will be above grade. What type of pipe? Special valves? What type of connection valve for the tanker? Thanks!!!
Low quality fittings means leaks. But compression type conical sealing thread forms have been used with great success. To me NPT is an inferior thread form overused in the USA. We use because it's universal and all you need is some pipe dope and a wrench. But if you think about it you never know what kind of engagement you get with tapered threads and it's easy to crack tapered threads via overtightening. Adding pipe dope and telfon tape doesn't help that, it hurts it. I'dl like to see a change to either BSP type Whitworth threads with a conical seat and an elastomeric seal or something like a JIC fitting. I'd also like to see a change from galvanized to a ductile steel with coating (avoid stainless as the threads will gall).
I need to run a line from the tank to the street for the tanker to fill. It will be above grade. What type of pipe? Special valves? What type of connection valve for the tanker? Thanks!!!
Are all 2nd stage regulator green? I had a good first stage regulator and just needed a 2nd stage, but the propane supply guy sold me a dual stage regulator and said that the green regulator was "low quality". Mmm
Question Sir. The line that goes from the first stage regulator to your yellow PE line, what are the specs? I just ran home flex PE and risers to my house and new tank, but can’t really find what type of hose to connect from the riser to the tank? If you have a link, that would be amazing! I get the feeling yellow csst won’t pass inspection lol. Thanks in advance.
@@cameron3401 so my local authority inspected everything and told me that per local Santa Rosa County FL code, there's nothing that says you can't use yellow csst. I haven't made the connection yet because I trying to fi osh off what I have in my leased tank. If you decide to go with csst, i would recommend covering it with a piece of flex conduit or flex pvc. Or you can pay $200 ish for a heavy duty 5ft connector.
I know it’s late, the yellow poly home flex line that goes underground is 1/2”. Since it’s running at around 10 psi (20 times the house pressure) it can handle the flow for an entire house no problem.
It passed 👍 drip legs are installed before any appliances that are sensitive to debris including any flaking galvanizing. Cost more, that’s why most guys run black pipe outside. Rusts like crazy tho!
Speaking for code in Louisiana, galvanized pipe can not be used for new construction however galvanized is an approved material for remodel or repair of existing gas lines
The gas shut off for the clothes dryer appears to be a flare fitting. Not a compression fitting. Stainless Steel flex lines are flare ends. Galvanized pipe is not recommended by NFPA for gas lines due to the flaking of the coating inside the pipe. Poly pipe for high pressure line comes in 2 sizes . CTS and IPS. and depending on its rating, you can NOT feed 100rds and 100rds of feet to the house.
I've replaced first stage LP regulator after moving my tank 100 ft from home using 1/2 inch polyethylene gas line I didn't use a second stage regulator but my stove burners flame is very low! What could be the cause? I've had my gas supplier supposedly serviceman to inspect it but he only tighten a few joints he said had small leaks charged $174 for 40 minutes work and left when I checked later the flame level at stove was still to low! Remember this is the same stove that was used with one first stage regulator when tank was only 12ft from home using 5/8 copper tubing!!
So you are stating that you only had/have one first stage regulator (red in color) and no other regulator in line between tank and house? If that is the case than you are severely over pressuring the appliance regulator and it could be in lockup and only allowing partly pressure
@@aron6998Thanks for your reply but the problem was my inability to tighten the fitting enough (100% disable veteran with heart failure) and my supposedly leak tester wasn't working and one so called serviceman from a local gas company who showed up without his work truck or tools (borrowed mine including sealing tape and pipe dope) didn't fix problem charged $300 (the gas serviceman I was told to call returned and he and his helper fixed the problem in less than an hour and after finding out what the other serviceman did didn't charge me anything but I sent a check to their office) and I sent them (the serviceman that didn't fix the problem!$100 and an explanation (for such a low amount) hasn't received
@@wilub1 well I was more concerned that you stated that you didn’t use a secondary regulator and was using only a first stage regulator at the tank, leaks occur even with able bodied people so my main concern was the pressure being used because that can cause issues inside at the point of use….if you used an intergal twin staged regulator at the tank it would cause low pressure at the appliance with the distance and size poly being used, at 100 ft using 1/2” poly and using a twin stage regulator it can only support a maximum of 32,000 btus that’s at 60° and above ambient temperature and would fall dramatically at lower temperatures
@@aron6998 Thanks again it's people like yourself which make my sacrifices (as a veteran servicing in southeast Asia is what ruined my heart) worth it!
I'm no pro.. but galvanized pipe isn't for LP or NG.. should be black pipe.. also that outlet box is way to close to that valve.. just me .. it literally right at it
Gas valves for stoves are always right below the outlet for the stove. Very typical. Galvanized pipe meets code here in OR. This was all inspected and permitted.
I would like to point out the fact that some counties don’t have a certain feet away from the house you have to be, but it’s mainly set there for just in case if it ruptures and explodes, but I would like to point out the fact that if it ruptures and explodes, it’s going to wipe out a block area anywaythere is so much pressure in one of those and if the pressure relief valve fails and the tank explodes, there’s nothing gonna be left anyway
I quit watching at around Galvanized pipe. Everyone knows you need to use black pipe. Yes. There’s a few things with black pipe but those are cosmetic. Galvanized will fail way more often than black pipe. And how I found this video, looking for a different answer about house propane. Maybe it will be talked about in this clip but I couldn’t believe anything said since I can’t get past this
Galvanized pipe has changed. It’s does not flake off and cause issues like it used to. It is approved for gas lines. This was all permitted and inspected.
You're pretty knowledgeable with this stuff. Good vid.
Black pipe will get surface rust on the outside, but it can be painted. I've had unpainted pipe on mine for over 40 years, and it's still solid. The concern is, and has always been, flaking off of the zinc from inside the pipe, causing problems later on in the gas valve(s). Drip legs *might* keep that from happening, but code or no code, it's wise to have that extra ounce of prevention. I would never used galvanized on LP gas.
Those leaves on the ground are enchanting 😊❤️
Hey man thank you for the info. The little tricks like putting the valve inside is awesome. God bless you brother, your info may have saved me from a really bad day!
Was looking for tank to structure info and this was great. Thanks!
I install appliances in houses..old one dies, they get new, usually a new upgrade. Its a nightmare at times..my advise is set it up for anything...and be sure the floor print can handle it. Many of the new dual fuel ranges, especially with the two separate ovens are totally flush in the back. There may be a "pocket" for the range regulator back there...but the range till not go back to the wall as it will hit the standpipe/valve assy sticking up from the floor. AND with dual fuel ranges...you need a 220 range outlet...if that were flush on the wall you will have both the depth of the outlet plug the depth of the plug when you plug it in. This means that the range will not go all the way back and will be excessively proud of the counter tops n cabinets. I've worked with a contractor before and his solution was to install the hookups in the wall between the studs so everything can be flush as intended. There really needs to be some kind of insulation on the backside of it to help deal with heat loss as well as air infiltration if that is an exterior installation. I know this comment is prolly a bit beyond the scope of this video but these are considerations need to be taken into account as it will save an expensive as well as inconvenient rework...plumbing through sills is not fun but way worse than almost done and then...oops. range don't fit right.
GREAT reasoning about WHY you turned the cutoffs as you did, so the code guys don't mind that?
You explain it very well and I work on propane vehicles a lot and generators
It’s safer than gasoline and never gets old eather
Just use proper pipe dope
great video!! thank you!
thanks man!
Thanks for your comment but since my comment I've had a certified installer over who corrected the leaks as I have congestive heart failure since 2005 (from service in southeast Asia) and didn't get the connections tight enough! The owner of Morris Petroleum and helper worked on my gas line for nearly a hour and a half (never charged one penny even after I insisted he let me pay him; he is a great human being and was furious at the terrible job the first supposedly installer did or not do) and checked the new stove found the two front burners gas regulators was faulty one couldn't be lowered and the other was completely blocked!
A lot of states don't allow galvanized steel for L.p. or compression fittings. They'll work but it isn't to code in a lot states, and compression fittings can potentially be hazardous. The color of the regulators is dependent on the manufacturer so the red/green may not necessarily be the case. That tracer wire shouldn't be touching the p.e. because it can charge and literally melt right into it causing a fire. You should also have tape above your p.e. and wire.
I need to run a line from a new tank to the street for the tanker to fill. It will be above grade. What type of pipe? Special valves? What type of connection valve for the tanker? Thanks!!!
Low quality fittings means leaks. But compression type conical sealing thread forms have been used with great success. To me NPT is an inferior thread form overused in the USA. We use because it's universal and all you need is some pipe dope and a wrench. But if you think about it you never know what kind of engagement you get with tapered threads and it's easy to crack tapered threads via overtightening. Adding pipe dope and telfon tape doesn't help that, it hurts it. I'dl like to see a change to either BSP type Whitworth threads with a conical seat and an elastomeric seal or something like a JIC fitting. I'd also like to see a change from galvanized to a ductile steel with coating (avoid stainless as the threads will gall).
Came here to say this too. Galvanized is not allowed in Canada either
I need to run a line from the tank to the street for the tanker to fill. It will be above grade. What type of pipe? Special valves? What type of connection valve for the tanker? Thanks!!!
Thanks
COOP
...
Are all 2nd stage regulator green? I had a good first stage regulator and just needed a 2nd stage, but the propane supply guy sold me a dual stage regulator and said that the green regulator was "low quality". Mmm
Question Sir. The line that goes from the first stage regulator to your yellow PE line, what are the specs? I just ran home flex PE and risers to my house and new tank, but can’t really find what type of hose to connect from the riser to the tank? If you have a link, that would be amazing! I get the feeling yellow csst won’t pass inspection lol. Thanks in advance.
Did you ever find an answer? I'm in the same boat
@@cameron3401 so my local authority inspected everything and told me that per local Santa Rosa County FL code, there's nothing that says you can't use yellow csst. I haven't made the connection yet because I trying to fi osh off what I have in my leased tank. If you decide to go with csst, i would recommend covering it with a piece of flex conduit or flex pvc. Or you can pay $200 ish for a heavy duty 5ft connector.
Yellow csst tubing cannot be used underground, per nfpa codes
@@freddierussell9500 the question is regarding above ground connection from tank to ground line. Nothing underground.
I know it’s late, the yellow poly home flex line that goes underground is 1/2”. Since it’s running at around 10 psi (20 times the house pressure) it can handle the flow for an entire house no problem.
Whoa! Dude, you're using the wrong pipe at the house. It's supposed to be black gas pipe. Can't believe this install passed inspection.
It passed 👍 drip legs are installed before any appliances that are sensitive to debris including any flaking galvanizing. Cost more, that’s why most guys run black pipe outside. Rusts like crazy tho!
says who?
@lukekaz9 yea there's nothing wrong with the pipe u got running to the house...like u said, it just rust...nothing saying it's against code at all
You can run galvanized in the IFGC.
Speaking for code in Louisiana, galvanized pipe can not be used for new construction however galvanized is an approved material for remodel or repair of existing gas lines
The gas shut off for the clothes dryer appears to be a flare fitting. Not a compression fitting. Stainless Steel flex lines are flare ends. Galvanized pipe is not recommended by NFPA for gas lines due to the flaking of the coating inside the pipe. Poly pipe for high pressure line comes in 2 sizes . CTS and IPS. and depending on its rating, you can NOT feed 100rds and 100rds of feet to the house.
Good video. Stuff you need to know without wasting my time with unnecessary dialogue.
I've replaced first stage LP regulator after moving my tank 100 ft from home using 1/2 inch polyethylene gas line I didn't use a second stage regulator but my stove burners flame is very low! What could be the cause? I've had my gas supplier supposedly serviceman to inspect it but he only tighten a few joints he said had small leaks charged $174 for 40 minutes work and left when I checked later the flame level at stove was still to low! Remember this is the same stove that was used with one first stage regulator when tank was only 12ft from home using 5/8 copper tubing!!
Is it the right jet for propane ??
So you are stating that you only had/have one first stage regulator (red in color) and no other regulator in line between tank and house? If that is the case than you are severely over pressuring the appliance regulator and it could be in lockup and only allowing partly pressure
@@aron6998Thanks for your reply but the problem was my inability to tighten the fitting enough (100% disable veteran with heart failure) and my supposedly leak tester wasn't working and one so called serviceman from a local gas company who showed up without his work truck or tools (borrowed mine including sealing tape and pipe dope) didn't fix problem charged $300 (the gas serviceman I was told to call returned and he and his helper fixed the problem in less than an hour and after finding out what the other serviceman did didn't charge me anything but I sent a check to their office) and I sent them (the serviceman that didn't fix the problem!$100 and an explanation (for such a low amount) hasn't received
@@wilub1 well I was more concerned that you stated that you didn’t use a secondary regulator and was using only a first stage regulator at the tank, leaks occur even with able bodied people so my main concern was the pressure being used because that can cause issues inside at the point of use….if you used an intergal twin staged regulator at the tank it would cause low pressure at the appliance with the distance and size poly being used, at 100 ft using 1/2” poly and using a twin stage regulator it can only support a maximum of 32,000 btus that’s at 60° and above ambient temperature and would fall dramatically at lower temperatures
@@aron6998 Thanks again it's people like yourself which make my sacrifices (as a veteran servicing in southeast Asia is what ruined my heart) worth it!
You are supposed to use "black Iron" pipe for gas lines. Looks like you are using galvanized, so maybe you will fail the inspection.
Badger?!
Where i live, i see a whole bunch of code violations right there!
I'm no pro.. but galvanized pipe isn't for LP or NG.. should be black pipe.. also that outlet box is way to close to that valve.. just me .. it literally right at it
Gas valves for stoves are always right below the outlet for the stove. Very typical. Galvanized pipe meets code here in OR. This was all inspected and permitted.
@@lukekaz9 ok
Says who?
@@dodgeramsport01 says me!
@@stoneyislandranch9783 R U a propane expert?
I would like to point out the fact that some counties don’t have a certain feet away from the house you have to be, but it’s mainly set there for just in case if it ruptures and explodes, but I would like to point out the fact that if it ruptures and explodes, it’s going to wipe out a block area anywaythere is so much pressure in one of those and if the pressure relief valve fails and the tank explodes, there’s nothing gonna be left anyway
I quit watching at around Galvanized pipe. Everyone knows you need to use black pipe. Yes. There’s a few things with black pipe but those are cosmetic. Galvanized will fail way more often than black pipe. And how I found this video, looking for a different answer about house propane. Maybe it will be talked about in this clip but I couldn’t believe anything said since I can’t get past this
Galvanized pipe has changed. It’s does not flake off and cause issues like it used to. It is approved for gas lines. This was all permitted and inspected.
4:49 your unscrewing the other end of your pipe!
Nope. The other end has nothing on it yet 👍
Is this a UG tank? It looks like AG tank. Why is it partially buried? Won't it corrod?