Surviving a Level E Overhang on Schlossberg Via Ferrata: Real Safety Tips from an Average Climber
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- In this video, I tackle the notoriously difficult Schlossberg Via Ferrata, a Level E route with constant overhangs that push even experienced climbers to their limits. I start by addressing a critical danger on this route: the risk of falling on a vertical segment where you can end up below the anchor and safety steel cable. If that happens, the 2-meter deployment range of your Via Ferrata lanyard and shock absorber can make it nearly impossible to recover-and if you fall again while trying to climb back up, the consequences could be severe, from breaking your system to risking a deadly impact.
I then dive into a key technique: the forearm hook. By using vector forces, this move helps you stay steady and maintain a good resting position, even on intense overhangs.
I’m not a professional guide, an expert, or someone born in the mountains doing this daily. I’m an average person-a software engineer who used to work 14-hour days in Central London. Yet here I am, sharing real-world safety advice that anyone can apply. This makes me the perfect role model for everyday adventurers who want to take on challenges like this.
I also showcase the advantage of using Ferrata.Bloc for safety and stability. And finally, in a bit of sarcasm directed at influencers, I give you my 'best shot,' which is far from perfect-because this is real life, without filters, without deceiving the viewer.
#ViaFerrata #SchlossbergViaFerrata #ClimbingSafety #Adventure #JetSetYourself #RealClimbing #MountainClimbing #OutdoorAdventure #ClimbingTechniques
#jetsetyourself #viaferrata #klettersteig
Great video as well as all of your others! Very informative, thank you!
This is why via ferratas are awesome. The average person can get a taste of what used to be reserved for extreme mountaineers, alpinists and climbers.
But this is also why they are so dangerous. All of the sudden you have average people high up in the mountains on near vertical rocky faces. You have to be smart about it. I think resting system should officially be part of every via ferrata kit.
Problem is companies only rent out helmets, harness and via ferrata sets . If that is the case bring your own resting system. It is a game changer.
Thanks for pointing out the dangers of falling on a via ferrata. My suspicion would be that falling on a very steep section that is not completely vertical could be even more prone to injury. On the vertical you at least have a free fall away from the wall and if the shock absorber works properly something like a hard catch on a massive whipper. If you can get back up you might even walk away from that. If the wall is not completely vertical you'll get dragged along the wall until the shock absorber deploys.
You are spot on.
Thank you very much for a lot of information and tip about via ferrata. I've finished 5 routeK2-K4 via ferrata while I'm hiking along segment of via Alpina route in Switzerland.For me, It's amazing that I can climb via ferrata alone and do it by myself. You make me brave. Thank a lot. I plan to climb harder route next year. Because my country don't have via ferrata route, I will train by climbing in gym.
I somehow identify with you. The main reason I like Via Ferrata so much and spend so long on various routes where I keep returning is because I don't need a belayer but still feels like rock climbing (or at least I get to do some of the workout) plus I get to climb sides of the mountains that are just amazing. Then, when I cannot go on Via Ferrata or as you say, winter time, if I don't go to the swimming pool in London I go to climbing gyms with autobelays (crazy expensive unfortunately).
Let me know when you are ready for K5 and more and what Via Ferrata you aim climbing. Will be interesting to know and follow you.
I watch your videos a long time now and i realy like to watch them because they are entertaining and also educational...greetings from austria, vienna💪😎
Thanks for the videos, for years I was planning to climb via ferratas and finally this year I found the time to experience my first via ferrata with my 12 year old daughter. Before the trip your videos gave a good understanding about the challenges. Great stuff.
What a story. What empowerment to your daughter. A lesson to learn from. Amazing. I hope the adventure was as expected and more.
A brave man, punto!
Good tips! Keep it up!💪
Thank you 💪
Now I understand what in Via Ferrata is meant by overhang. In climbing you usually call a wall an overhang if the wall itself is steeper than 90°. But in Via Ferrata you call it overhang if your body is leaning back if your arm is fully extended and feet on the wall?
Your definition of a overhang it correct. In the video, without leveraging arms you cannot uphold yourself upright, because the incline of the wall is more than 90 (your fit are going under and the wall is pushing you out on your back). On that segment where I was recording if you want to stay parallel with the wall you cannot because feet are under the wall and the section with the safety steel cable keeps pushing your back out
Thanks, your videos are great for educational purpose! One question, do you have any suggestion of how to avoid the third karabiner dangling, assuming we attach a karabiner to the third, shorter arm typically available in via ferrata kits for resting. I know independent resting devices have some advantages, like not stressing the ferrata kit, but sometimes having the resting system connected to the dissipator might have some perks. I know you must not connect it directly to the harness, since it would bypass the dissipator in case of a fall. Do you have experience with some kind of weak connector that would break in case of a fall?
Don't worry about that carabiner. Will not bother you in any form or shape attached to the "third arm" of the Via Ferrata Set. I many times let the shorter arm of my Ypsilon resting system to dangle. It is short enough not to get in my way (most of the times).
If one were to fall and activate the via ferrata set what needs to be done with the set afterward , and are you able to reset it or does it need to be destroyed. ?
If you fall and the shock absorber gets deployed you through away the Via Ferrata Set after you cut the lanyard with scissors to make sure nobody will make the fatal mistake of recovering it. Probably you can salvage the carabiners.