OBS CHEVY WHEEL & TIRE FITMENT: what fits & what doesn't (& what you might have to do to fix it)
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- čas přidán 2. 02. 2024
- We're diving into a topic that I knew was important, but did not realize how important until I started building my own OBS Chevy Truck - 88-98 Scottsdale. While this truck is rough and a blank slate for me to learn even more on, I'm hopeful this video helps you understand what to do and what not to do when it comes to wheel & tire fitment and proper backspacing on your static-dropped OBS truck. Drop us a comment a let us know what you think!
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This whole truck is a learning process and I love it. We’re gonna learn all kinds of new tricks and tips with a build like this. Thanks Robbie
ABSOLUTELY!
Have you ever thought about swapping in the 90’s Impala SS rearend?
You get disc brakes also.
I think they are 3” narrower.
But you could run a 1” spacer on each side.
Would be a cool low buck swap for the OBS guys and it keeps the 5x5 pattern.
I haven’t, actually. I think I’ve about got it sorted here but that’s a great suggestion. Will look into it
Same thing happened to me Robbie and my 98 also w a 5/8 static drop. Not knowing what we didn't know about back spacing we relied on a well known mail order company who drills blanks purposely not to rub and he guaranteed us there would be no rub WRONG front and back both rubbed and ruined a few tires in a short. Needless to say we ended up doing a roll job to get them to work which ended up fine. I just had them powder coated bronze chrome and all new Michelins 👍 good to go, thanks for all you do in the industry for us garage people, dig your channel.
Thanks so much, Scott - These tactics may not be for everybody but I am happy to show my struggles in the hopes that it may help others.
Thank you for doing this video. For me, it has been a struggle finding info on wheel and tires fitment on the OBS trucks. I really enjoy your content.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Its awesome to have the information out there before you get too far into a project and realize you have to undo half of it. Before I did the 2/3 drop on my Dakota I must have done weeks of measuring, research etc. Came in knowing what wheels and what the maximum tire size I could via the forums too. The kits out there were a 2/4" drop with the rear hangers. But needed Pinion shims... It adds up quick both in parts cost and the amount of work needed. Knowing the added weight I have in the bed, Hard Tonneau, full size spare, some tools that 4" rear would be too much. Ive noticed more have said, 5/8 4/7 for the drops but are running on a 20"+ wheel. That in itself brings issues. I would have loved to drop mine on the Viper wheels but at $800+ each hell no, same bolt pattern, way different offset. It's a daily, not a show truck so I had to keep that in mind too.
For sure. This is a rough truck and one that I want to learn more about working my way through obstacles on. I'm having fun but it can frustrating at times.
Puddin always takes about how good those sweet patina wipes are and the amazing smell. And now you lol. Definitely gonna give these a try.
They’re insanely good
Good info! Truck is looking good sitting down a little more in the back.
It definitely is. The whole time I was cutting I was thinking, “oh, this is what Jesse meant about the inner bedside.” 😂
Appreciate you taking the time to put this information out there. Definitely helped me out
Glad to hear it!
Bro. That truck is sick. Something about that grandpa brown 2 tone laid out on those fat wheels just looks so right. 👌
Thanks!
Glad you made it through the process of making the tires not rub I think a lesser man would have given up and never finished and had a non driver sitting around thinking about what could have been!! Thanks for taking us along on this pain of a journey and showing it’s possible to get it done!!!!
For sure! Thanks for watching
Dude!!! Great video!!! 4/6 on my 94 chev!!! Running 15×8 4-1/2inch black American racing spokes 255/60 had to role the front!!! I need to switch to react spindles!!!✌️
Those React spindles do the trick!
Great how to! I bought my '89 RCSB already lowered, so I missed out on the trials & tribulations you've endured! Truck looks great!!!
Right on! Thanks for watching
GMT400’s are my all time favorite body style that GM produced other than the square bodies. I miss my c1500 and my k1500. Had to scrap both of them(I live in the rust belt). I’ve been wanting to get another c1500 for a long time but now I want one even more so after watching the progress on this ‘88.
badass can’t wait to see the finished product 🤘🏼
Just ordered the TKO wipes and some tire black. Thanks for the code.
Of course!
The truck looks good 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Loooks good. Backspace is critical when you're going wide and the panhard rod is nice to have.
I remember doing 295/35 18s on the back of a 4th gen Camaro back in '96 the stock panhard bar would flex and cause scrubbing, eventually went aftermakret which helped greatly. I've done a few builds with the upper end of max width.
Yeah thankfully we can tweak a bit with the pan hard but it’s been centered already
Damn I wish this was out 2 years ago when I ordered my wheels ! But great content truly appreciate the obs content on here and level 7
Thanks for watching!
Been there played that. Wish I would of known could of told you. I use 4 inch grinder cut my lip out. Use a ft long 2x4 held to out side and use hammer to massage what's left flat.
All good man! Thanks for watching
I love learning this stuff!
Me too!
Excellent informative video and great info on the right tools to use to make the clean cuts.
I have to say I don’t believe I could cut a mint truck like you did this one but if I did this a valuable video to take in on what not to do and what to do especially with the experts advice that was added in. Thanks for sharing
I would’ve been way more thoughtful and careful with wheel choice if this was a mint truck. This is not, so I’m using it to learn on.
I need this in my life.
haha it's a basket case. Join the ride!
I 5,7 dropped a obs dually and had to roll front fender and take trim off..back cleared without any mods
So what's next? Do up have to do anymore mods to get more tire clearance?
I’m unsure, actually. Truck is still at alignment so I will sort out when I get it back. I’ll bring ya the action for sure.
Great info, going to save me a headache!
Real.
Try to keep it that way
No only do you need to make sure your bed is square, but also that your pan hard bar isn't pulling you diff to either side and is centered. Both mine are like your second cut, I haven't had to remove any of the inside lip that isn't stamped to the outer, so they are still joined slightly. I hope you get them to work, the wheels suit that body color, and it's only sheetmetal haha.
Panhard was centered when we did the suspension install. And yep, I’m sticking with them. I love the wheels
Good stuff!
Thanks for watching, Travis!
What size spacer did you use to for the fender roller?
Good video
I understand your struggle.
Personally, it might be advisable to go ahead and have the mount flange on the rear wheels milled down just a bit.
Good point. May still do that, but my main goal was getting the truck to alignment. Will continue to fine tune in the weeks to come.
@UNITEDBYTRUCKS by all means, alignment is, and would be the first priority, (for the sake of safety...and tire wear) just merely a suggestion to get the tire Clarence you are looking for.
Good content though.
@@operator5032 Thanks much!
Morning, Robbie!!!
🤙👍
OR put a block of wood along the lip of wheel well and a bottle jack against the wheel tub (sideways) and push out. It will roll the lip and push the bedside out enough to clear.. don’t be stupid about it and it’ll work.
Need this video for a bagged square body laying frame
I’ll have one for the 67-72 this year
Use a cutoff tool to cut the lip instead of dremel.
Good morning. Enjoy your videos and have a question for you though. Any idea what a 94 chevy stepside would be worth-running 305 with less then 80,000 original miles. Tranny works. edge of front fenders are rusting away. Cab corners need to be replaced -hood -box-tailgate are good and interior is mint. Upstate NY. winters can be rough at times. Just wondering if you could let me know. I know hard with out pictures but was wondering was all. Thank you for any help and or advice! Have a good day
Chrome stock rims 15” i believe
Flap disk on a grinder will clean up that lip SO quick...
That’s some nice fender roller in my day all I had to use was baseball bat to give the extra room for the tires to fit in the wheel well!!!
We actually tried the baseball bat trick first. It worked some for sure.
Great video👍 do those offsets work with the stepsides or are they completely different?
New to the OBSs.
Thanks...
What size tires are on the rims ?
If one size it tighter than the other, you use the pan hard bar to center the axle...
Yes, use the pan hard bar to center but that’s not really my issue here
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS yeah, I realized that you said the bed alignment was the real issue.
I would have took a flap disk and shaved it down that's what I did on my
C10 worked great
You would have saved yourself a lot of headache by going with stretched tires. 275/35/20 on a 20x10 inch wheel would have been perfect. I run 275/35 on x10.5 wheels and it sit's perfect. Also rolling and pulling the fenders would have helped
Great info, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I feel like stonefab arms and SloshTubz would fix all this on the front
The front is all good with a little rolling. I don’t want a narrowed track width up front for the intended purposes of the truck.
Definitely would've had the inner hubs milled if there's enough material. That would've pulled those wheels in a good 1/2" and allow you to keep your fender lip spot welds intact.
You're gonna need Mike to patch that driver's side cut up. You definitely don't want that open like that.
I’ll address the inner bed side. And I don’t want to move the wheels if I don’t have to. I like where it sits in the wheel well. I wish that lip weren’t there at all. lol still plenty of strength there and after talking to a bunch of OBS guys, this is what they do. I’ll handle the potential to rust portion up in there
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS
Agreed, those fender lips are nuthin' but trouble! 😆
I used to be all about getting that tuck as tight as possible. But the older I get and the more high-quality builds I see, I can now appreciate a full finger's worth of clearance while keeping 60% or more of the factory fender lip intact.
I'm not worried about strength of the bedside, just concerned about that big, open cavity for lots of stuff to get in and rust. But if a can or two of undercoating will seal it up, then yer good to go. 👍
@@SaneCayne yeah, I agree. This is a truck I’m learning/trying some things myself. and definitely appreciate the guidance on the rust issue. It could be a real one for sure.
👊
I would have knock down wheel back pad first
What front/ rear brake setup on the black truck ?
That truck has a 16” Little Shop MFG kit all the way around
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS thanks bro!
👍🏻
Ya like your new tool!!???
What is the name and brand of the wheels you have on?
Rushforth night train
I have a 99 OBS Dually that I'm planning to run on bags.
Is there a "calculator" of some sort that I can use? I want it as low as possible without doing a body drop.
I don't think so, but a dually definitely changes things. Josh from Yeah Buddy Garage may be helpful and definitely Travis at AZ Pro Performance
A square body axle would solve the problem.
Id weld those lips up so you dont have rust issues in the future
I’m going to coat it but yes, good call
275 60 15s on square body rally wheels always win in the wheel department
Before you butcher the the body… buy the right spec wheels. 🙄
Haven you seen this truck? This thing is lucky it’s in my possession and not rotting away in the field I got it from. I’m after a “look” and a tight fit is required which means a little massaging and effort is required. Also to be this low, even the “right spec” wheels would be a super tight fit. Thanks for jumping in and statng what you think is the obvious.
Rolling the quarters or Frame mods are not what I’m talking about. When you chop the quarter lips off the inner tubs and the skins aren’t spot welded anymore… that’s what I call butchering.
Yes I’ve done my fair share of these trucks, cars for fitment.
Just saying it’s easier to order new wheels …. And probably fit a 305 since you did coilovers
Those wheels are too sunken in..I have a 93 c1500 and I did 18x10 rocket racing wheels squared. Perfect fitment. 295/35/18 tires squared.
Cool story🙄 we’re so glad you’re enjoying your wheel choice on your truck
I was looking at those rocket racing attacks, I've seen 18x11 on the rear of an obs and 18x12 with fender flares, but I think you could get a 12 under the rear with some rolling/cutting
@@jordanbest3926 some one is lol
@@BRMN8R I have 18x10 in the back but with 5 in of BS. I’d probably go 11 in the back if i could do it again. I have flares on mine