This was a freakin great video. The spray foam stuff was very good but common knowledge -- That last segment at the end about wood / framing etc -- was excellent!!
I found that in Australia, foam insulation is almost un-insurable due to fire risk. Cool stores here have similar problems. Would pay to check before starting.
Hi, great video..is there any chance you could do a video on wiring a container after the closed cell insulation has been done..thanks and really great quality work btw 👍
Great Video good information! A good video you could do, it how you framed up the Container. You mentioned a few things at the end of this video that leaves me needing more info. You talked about the foam can bow the metal studs, I have a couple of 8' high ones and just about ready start the project
Not using as kiln. Also already have a old 40. I have walled off 12 feet and need to insulate it with insulation that can withstand 160 F. A wood furnace will be installed and operate to maintain over 130 -150 F. In the hot room will be half of a run around coil system . 24 x 48 multi pass coil with fan . Glycol loop to home with like coil and fan . We already own all materials. Going to see what kind of heat we can claim. The remaining 28 foot box will have cord wood.
I don't understand why the spray foam doesn't come flush to the steel frame face. It looks very thin and your math clearly indicates there is insulation value in every inch of foam. If the studs are 2.5 inches, there should be at most a 1/2 inch gap from the stud face to the face surface of spray foam if you're going for a 2" install of spray foam.
Ok this is great but what I don’t see addressed is when u bury a container, say a 20’ one, for a storm shelter, food cellar or wine cellar even. So, if u reinforce the interior like a rib cage to prevent cave in with 6x6x8 PT, 2’ on center, then you use spray foam in between the 6x6, then 1/2” plywood over walls, floor and ceiling, then we have reinforced walls and insulated vapor barrier and inverted container for more roof strength too...I know y’all don’t modify for burial but a lot of people are doing it...steel beam interior is 10 times the cost or more which is only reason interior is timber framed but I get it steel is preferred.
Burying a container isn't cheap but could be done. They tried on Mythbusters and failed. The weight of the backfill collapses the corrugations. I'm certain a strut-lined and 3lb closed cell spray foamed container would pass engineering. I wouldn't use pressure treated wood. Also, the wall and roof corrugations are only 1.6mm thick. I'm told (by our outsourced engineer) the negative ions in the earth will corrode the steel. The entire exterior would need to be continuously lined with an expensive rubberized coating. I've always thought a big concrete septic tank as an underground bunker would be a cheaper/easier option.
Hi Grant. To start, obviously make sure there are no flammable interior finishing materials around the stove as you normally would in a home. Ideally, you'll have a stove with fresh air intake. You'll want an insulated wall thimble through the wall. I'd like to design a corrugation-dependent frame (similar to a BigAir45 vent) that would accommodate the thimble and be insulated with rockwool. One could finish up to this frame and spray foam the rest of the container as normal. What size of chimney pipe are you using? 6"? 7"? On the outside of the container, I would run two vertical lengths of strut channel and use them to secure your adjustable wall support and wall bands. Make sure your chimney extends past the roof of the container. Email mods@thecontainerguy.ca if you have additional questions. I can also send you a conceptual design and maybe one day post a video on this. I'd like to install a wood boiler stove in a container with PEX lines in a concrete slab floor. The thermal mass of the concrete would act as a battery and provide heat when one is away or asleep and not tending the fire.
Very important question: since we're talking about steel, which deforms with temperature (expands, retracts) ... aren't you afraid that the foam will come off the wall, leaving an air gap for condensation? I'm from Europe - where (so I heard - not being a witness to it !!!) that it's more likely to happen - that the foam might come of. I spoke to 3 companies that do spray foam, but none of them would give me a guarantee on this. I was thinking about 5-6 inches of spray foam insulation, but now I'm not so sure ... can you advise please? What is your experience on this? Have you had a chance to check such foam walls after few years? Especially the wall facing the sun in summer and being exposed to cold temperatures in Canadian winters ?
If you're using 2lb closed cell installed by the pros, you're fine. You can have your contractor perform a pull (adhesion) test. We have one container that has been foamed since 2011 and it's perfect.
The spray foam adheres directly to the container wall so no "prep" is required other than making sure you mask off everything you do not want over-spray on and that your container is framed properly either with strut channel or steel studs. I will have many more videos on each of those topics in the future.
Do you ever spray foam the floor, or what are your thoughts? I have always thought shipping containers would make a great remote backwoods cabin. Be open to ideas.
We spray foam the undersides all the time! The floors are so durable and beautiful in my opinion that it's a shame to cover them for a cabin or office setting. I go into more detail on it in this video here: czcams.com/video/MvhSG-9PB_g/video.html There's also a myth that rodents will eat and the foam if exposed. Don't worry about it. Fill er up.
Hi, I’ve been watching your channel a lot of important information but I’ve also came across other channels and one that stood out in particular was insulate based on your environment. So they’re claiming that you should not spray foam and certain environments that there’s different type of insulation you should use I was wondering if you have asegment on that
Correct me if I am not right. It seems the video is not a wood framing onto the shipping container.....but I trust then we still need a wood framing, right? Many thanks
I think hot/humid and extreme cold should have the same building envelope: Steel framing and spray foam. Condensation or humidity will rot/mold wood framing. The only difference would be an ERV (tropical) vs an HRV (arctic) for mechanical air exchange. Desert and Temperate climates may be similar building envelopes as well where people may get away with cheaping out a little bit. We are working on a spray foam less wall system that is hopefully safe for human occupancy 🤞 stay tuned.
main problem is: let "someone professional" do the job. hmhm find a professional in france.. there is none 😁 cool that you try to answere questions!!! 👏👏👏
Good news. We are working on a solution to ventilate, frame, and insulate a shipping container PROPERLY without using spray foam. I never thought I would ever say this but I think I've actually figured it out. I won't have concrete evidence for a few years after testing its performance in each season but I'll share my design early 2023! Stay tuned.
Didn't say everyone. 10% are good for temperate climates. Most would never pass National Building Code of Canada. I'm open to providing my honest opinion to any projects that you have in mind. Container homes are a thing and are here to stay regardless of anyone's opinion... let's build them right. Don't endorse unhealthy building envelopes.
Why can't you use foam panels that when installed between a wooden board and the shipping container wall thwt when tightened down it will compress to fill the gaps?
Thank you for the great insight! My question is geared towards maximizing internal space. My intent is to build a workshop, not live in a container. So, can we frame, insulate, and apply an exterior layer (e.g. siding, stucco)? What are your thoughts? Thanks again!
That would be the way to go. Strap it with purlins and girts. Make sure you have a sloped roof. Lock everything in with spray foam then finish the exterior to match your yard. You would likely best off to use a 3 piece knockdown steel door frame and traditional North American man door. Make sure your total wall thickness is at least 5" thick for these doors. Then, strut-line the interior in the outside corrugations so you have a fully modular shop and no interior width lost. Sounds like a cool project! Good luck and I'm here to help if you have any other questions.
@@TheContainerGuyTV thank you for the quick and thorough response! I'll have to google almost all of it 😂 - but I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction! If you've seen or done work like this before, please pass along the info or links. I'll begin my research now...thanks again and happy new year!
Send us an email to mods@thecontainerguy.ca. I'll think about this a bit further and see if I can get you rough design using readily available materials. www.planmycan.com is another great resource for your planning.
Should work if you cover every square inch of steel (can't leave the doors or underside exposed). Be careful with creating small air cavities. You'll want one common airspace between the foam and the container that's vented like an attic.
@@TheContainerGuyTV would you recommend still using closed cell spray foam on the interior aswell or it would not be necessary along as I complete what you suggested using the foam and stucco only? Or i can also spary foam the underside only and use the foam and stucco for the rest of the container?
@@primodinero3006 check out our videos with the Exterior Studding Brackets. If you frame the exterior, stuff mineral wool insulation in the cavity, then strap the studs with vapour permeable foam, you can stucco that. You can still spray foam the interior to achieve an approved vapour barrier if this needs to pass code but depending on the climate, it's likely not needed. The wall system will already have tons of R-value.
@@TheContainerGuyTV FYI I'm located in Toronto Canada....thank you for your feedback. Will send photos to your email for your reference. I've also been trying to get a quote for the container connection kit. They said they are working on it!
I love working with them compared to wood. There are different gauges of studs but even the thinnest ones are fine once foamed in place. I touch on them a bit more in this video when we stud the end walls: czcams.com/video/h2KhkNMoYLY/video.html
John, we are building brackets right now that are meant to hold the studs away from the wall to allow a continuous layer of foam around them. We have a steel stud bracket (SSB) meant to have the finished wall 2.5" away from the inside corrugations using 1 5/8" steel studs. We also have a wood stud bracket (WSB) meant to hold 2x4s 3.5" or 4" away from the inside corrugations. In your instance, the WSB using 2.5" steel studs would be a perfect solution and will assist you with the framing process. Email parts@thecontainerguy.ca if interested.
No we don't. We just came up with a Steel Stud Bracket (SSB) that mounts the top track to the 60mm tubing. It will work with 2.5" steel studs or what we have recently discovered works better, 1 5/8" steel studs held ~1" away from the wall. They'll be available on Amazon or containermodificationworld.com. I'll try to release a short video or post about it shortly. Stay tuned!
@@tamlornchase3073 if you email parts@thecontainerguy.ca, we might have enough prototypes in stock to fill a small order. Otherwise, likely a couple weeks.
Great info 👍... Would you recommend using 1” closed cell spray foam first to seal the container, then using 2.5” studs to frame walls (3 5/8” studs on ceiling), then insulate with fiberglass insulation in between studs? ... thanks in advance
I would not foam first then stud later. The framing locked into the foam adds a ton of rigidity to the container. You could pull the framing away from the wall 1" if you want but make sure it's locked in place with foam otherwise your interior wall panels will have too much movement. There are a lot of people that don't insulate at all and others that only use fibreglass so the flash and batt system you suggest would work great in my opinion (except in the Arctic). I would use Rockwool Safe N Sound instead of fibreglass. 10 years ago, we were told 1" of foam is all that is required for a vapour barrier and that was later upgraded to 2" (likely because of the variation in spray thickness) so in my opinion it'll work. We've insulated containers in the past with only 1" of foam and there have never been signs of condensation in the winter.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thanks for the info!… Was planning on using 2 1/2 inch steel studs for the walls and 3 5/8 inch steel studs to run the ceiling unless you recommend using “hat channel”… Did you secure the steel studs to the container wall before spray foam? Or let spray foam secure everything
@@JoshBarbe 2.5" studs on walls with top and bottom tracks, 3 5/8" (or even 5.5") in ceiling with no tracks on the ends, and spray foam locking everything in place is the way to go. You can tack your walls in place with scrap steel stud pieces to the top 60mm square tubing. Be careful with the back corner castings. You need to have your ceiling low enough (2" below the underside of the castings) to allow for a proper vapour barrier. Make sure you use stiffener bars.
I imagine pricing fluctuates by location. Feel free to reach out to Luis at Komfort Insulation for suggested pricing on different envelopes or a quote if you're in Saskatchewan.
1280 walled sf x 3 $ psf approx here anyway, $3840.00 but u have to do it or ur going to be miserable and moldy and condensation will rust out ur home like a billion termites eat wood
Hey Channing! Thanks so much for all the video's! What would be your advice if spray foaming is not an option for insulation? What would you say is second best?
@@TheContainerGuyTV I live in the Netherlands, so pretty moderate climate no extremes in heat or cold. Constraints mainly being budget, speed and flexibility. I have a one man woodworking business and i need to be out of my current shop in about two months. There's a chance I can put one or two 40' containers on the property to move my shop into. I don't know what layout will work yet, so I thought to do a simple (more traditional) insulation job, so in a couple of months when i know what s decent layout is, i can take some of it apart and start adding windows and doors and such.
So the cold roll is screwed to the face of the studs just to hold them in place until the spray job is done? Also, what kind of pain in the ass does this create for the electrician that has to follow the insulators? Also, have you ever just screwed hat channel to the tall side of the corrugations? I'm thinking about doing that, but I'd have to insulate the back of the hat channel before I screw it to the wall.
We played around with hat channel in the video below because we only had an inch of room for "framing". The roof corrugations wobbly even after lining it with plywood. If you are looking for a slender framing system, use 1 5/8" steel studs and pull them away from the corrugations 7/8". Then insulate with 2" closed cell spray foam. We have a Steel Stud Bracket bundle coming out shortly that will do all the thinking and guide people through the best framing method. czcams.com/video/b0_zBWi6a1M/video.html
@@TheContainerGuyTV I appreciate the response!! I've watched a couple more vids and you are a crafty dude. keep it up. I just subscribed and I plan to follow. I think it's pretty brilliant with your use of hat channel on the lid in the video you linked.
The same way you do -38 to -48. Spray Foam. Could go up to 4" of foam. Containers get pretty narrow if you frame with anything larger than a 2x4. In 2x6 walls, a "flash and batt" system (2" of foam, 4" of batt) works well and is a less expensive option. Batt helps with sound so even 2" foam, 2" batt would be nice.
This was a freakin great video. The spray foam stuff was very good but common knowledge -- That last segment at the end about wood / framing etc -- was excellent!!
This video is GOLD
I found that in Australia, foam insulation is almost un-insurable due to fire risk. Cool stores here have similar problems. Would pay to check before starting.
Do you know by chance if they use 2lb closed cell foam? Or 1/2 lb open cell?
To the point truth, no bull.
Hi, great video..is there any chance you could do a video on wiring a container after the closed cell insulation has been done..thanks and really great quality work btw 👍
Great Video good information! A good video you could do, it how you framed up the Container. You mentioned a few things at the end of this video that leaves me needing more info. You talked about the foam can bow the metal studs, I have a couple of 8' high ones and just about ready start the project
Not using as kiln. Also already have a old 40. I have walled off 12 feet and need to insulate it with insulation that can withstand 160 F. A wood furnace will be installed and operate to maintain over 130 -150 F. In the hot room will be half of a run around coil system . 24 x 48 multi pass coil with fan . Glycol loop to home with like coil and fan . We already own all materials. Going to see what kind of heat we can claim. The remaining 28 foot box will have cord wood.
I don't understand why the spray foam doesn't come flush to the steel frame face. It looks very thin and your math clearly indicates there is insulation value in every inch of foam. If the studs are 2.5 inches, there should be at most a 1/2 inch gap from the stud face to the face surface of spray foam if you're going for a 2" install of spray foam.
Ok this is great but what I don’t see addressed is when u bury a container, say a 20’ one, for a storm shelter, food cellar or wine cellar even. So, if u reinforce the interior like a rib cage to prevent cave in with 6x6x8 PT, 2’ on center, then you use spray foam in between the 6x6, then 1/2” plywood over walls, floor and ceiling, then we have reinforced walls and insulated vapor barrier and inverted container for more roof strength too...I know y’all don’t modify for burial but a lot of people are doing it...steel beam interior is 10 times the cost or more which is only reason interior is timber framed but I get it steel is preferred.
Burying a container isn't cheap but could be done. They tried on Mythbusters and failed. The weight of the backfill collapses the corrugations. I'm certain a strut-lined and 3lb closed cell spray foamed container would pass engineering. I wouldn't use pressure treated wood. Also, the wall and roof corrugations are only 1.6mm thick. I'm told (by our outsourced engineer) the negative ions in the earth will corrode the steel. The entire exterior would need to be continuously lined with an expensive rubberized coating. I've always thought a big concrete septic tank as an underground bunker would be a cheaper/easier option.
Wood stove Installations tips needed plus materials needed
Hi Grant. To start, obviously make sure there are no flammable interior finishing materials around the stove as you normally would in a home. Ideally, you'll have a stove with fresh air intake. You'll want an insulated wall thimble through the wall. I'd like to design a corrugation-dependent frame (similar to a BigAir45 vent) that would accommodate the thimble and be insulated with rockwool. One could finish up to this frame and spray foam the rest of the container as normal. What size of chimney pipe are you using? 6"? 7"? On the outside of the container, I would run two vertical lengths of strut channel and use them to secure your adjustable wall support and wall bands. Make sure your chimney extends past the roof of the container. Email mods@thecontainerguy.ca if you have additional questions. I can also send you a conceptual design and maybe one day post a video on this. I'd like to install a wood boiler stove in a container with PEX lines in a concrete slab floor. The thermal mass of the concrete would act as a battery and provide heat when one is away or asleep and not tending the fire.
Very important question: since we're talking about steel, which deforms with temperature (expands, retracts) ... aren't you afraid that the foam will come off the wall, leaving an air gap for condensation? I'm from Europe - where (so I heard - not being a witness to it !!!) that it's more likely to happen - that the foam might come of. I spoke to 3 companies that do spray foam, but none of them would give me a guarantee on this.
I was thinking about 5-6 inches of spray foam insulation, but now I'm not so sure ... can you advise please? What is your experience on this? Have you had a chance to check such foam walls after few years? Especially the wall facing the sun in summer and being exposed to cold temperatures in Canadian winters ?
If you're using 2lb closed cell installed by the pros, you're fine. You can have your contractor perform a pull (adhesion) test. We have one container that has been foamed since 2011 and it's perfect.
Very informative. Do you have a prep work for spray foam video?
The spray foam adheres directly to the container wall so no "prep" is required other than making sure you mask off everything you do not want over-spray on and that your container is framed properly either with strut channel or steel studs. I will have many more videos on each of those topics in the future.
Do you ever spray foam the floor, or what are your thoughts? I have always thought shipping containers would make a great remote backwoods cabin. Be open to ideas.
We spray foam the undersides all the time! The floors are so durable and beautiful in my opinion that it's a shame to cover them for a cabin or office setting. I go into more detail on it in this video here: czcams.com/video/MvhSG-9PB_g/video.html
There's also a myth that rodents will eat and the foam if exposed. Don't worry about it. Fill er up.
@@TheContainerGuyTV thank you so much for that information and video link. Great detail in answering my questions!
Hi, I’ve been watching your channel a lot of important information but I’ve also came across other channels and one that stood out in particular was insulate based on your environment. So they’re claiming that you should not spray foam and certain environments that there’s different type of insulation you should use I was wondering if you have asegment on that
Correct me if I am not right. It seems the video is not a wood framing onto the shipping container.....but I trust then we still need a wood framing, right? Many thanks
What is the best insulation option for shipping container containers in hot/humid environments?
I think hot/humid and extreme cold should have the same building envelope: Steel framing and spray foam. Condensation or humidity will rot/mold wood framing. The only difference would be an ERV (tropical) vs an HRV (arctic) for mechanical air exchange.
Desert and Temperate climates may be similar building envelopes as well where people may get away with cheaping out a little bit. We are working on a spray foam less wall system that is hopefully safe for human occupancy 🤞 stay tuned.
How to fix the metal frame to the container? Do you glue? Or is it off the wall for spray foam to fall behind?
What about non-temperate zones?
main problem is: let "someone professional" do the job. hmhm find a professional in france.. there is none 😁 cool that you try to answere questions!!! 👏👏👏
Good news. We are working on a solution to ventilate, frame, and insulate a shipping container PROPERLY without using spray foam. I never thought I would ever say this but I think I've actually figured it out. I won't have concrete evidence for a few years after testing its performance in each season but I'll share my design early 2023! Stay tuned.
You will be okay, most of Europe is going green. Those wind turbines will keep everybody warm in winter. 😆
How did you anchor the steel studs..?
It wasn't necessary to say the other are garbage. Congratulations for the project.
Didn't say everyone. 10% are good for temperate climates. Most would never pass National Building Code of Canada. I'm open to providing my honest opinion to any projects that you have in mind. Container homes are a thing and are here to stay regardless of anyone's opinion... let's build them right. Don't endorse unhealthy building envelopes.
I realize you recommend spray foam with steel studs, but what do you think about Insofast container insulation?
Hello. Thanks for the tips. I'm considering doing a container gym. Can I leave the spray foam walls exposed and paint over the spray foam?
What is a good ballpark range for the cost of framing a 20’ container including the door. And do you have a list of materials for this job?
How do you insulate the floor for a home?
Why can't you use foam panels that when installed between a wooden board and the shipping container wall thwt when tightened down it will compress to fill the gaps?
would you suggest that electrical be added after walls are complete or should one run conduit and boxes in the wall before spray foam is added
Thank you for the great insight! My question is geared towards maximizing internal space. My intent is to build a workshop, not live in a container. So, can we frame, insulate, and apply an exterior layer (e.g. siding, stucco)? What are your thoughts? Thanks again!
That would be the way to go. Strap it with purlins and girts. Make sure you have a sloped roof. Lock everything in with spray foam then finish the exterior to match your yard. You would likely best off to use a 3 piece knockdown steel door frame and traditional North American man door. Make sure your total wall thickness is at least 5" thick for these doors. Then, strut-line the interior in the outside corrugations so you have a fully modular shop and no interior width lost. Sounds like a cool project! Good luck and I'm here to help if you have any other questions.
@@TheContainerGuyTV thank you for the quick and thorough response! I'll have to google almost all of it 😂 - but I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction! If you've seen or done work like this before, please pass along the info or links. I'll begin my research now...thanks again and happy new year!
Send us an email to mods@thecontainerguy.ca. I'll think about this a bit further and see if I can get you rough design using readily available materials. www.planmycan.com is another great resource for your planning.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I need a phone number
Can using stucco to cover the outside of the container prevent thermal bridging? 3" foam and then stucco applied to the exterior.
Should work if you cover every square inch of steel (can't leave the doors or underside exposed). Be careful with creating small air cavities. You'll want one common airspace between the foam and the container that's vented like an attic.
@@TheContainerGuyTV would you recommend still using closed cell spray foam on the interior aswell or it would not be necessary along as I complete what you suggested using the foam and stucco only? Or i can also spary foam the underside only and use the foam and stucco for the rest of the container?
@@primodinero3006 check out our videos with the Exterior Studding Brackets. If you frame the exterior, stuff mineral wool insulation in the cavity, then strap the studs with vapour permeable foam, you can stucco that. You can still spray foam the interior to achieve an approved vapour barrier if this needs to pass code but depending on the climate, it's likely not needed. The wall system will already have tons of R-value.
@@TheContainerGuyTV FYI I'm located in Toronto Canada....thank you for your feedback. Will send photos to your email for your reference.
I've also been trying to get a quote for the container connection kit. They said they are working on it!
Very awesome. Never knew the benifit of steelstud. Aren't they flimsy? Probably harder to work with them than wood?
I love working with them compared to wood. There are different gauges of studs but even the thinnest ones are fine once foamed in place. I touch on them a bit more in this video when we stud the end walls: czcams.com/video/h2KhkNMoYLY/video.html
Do you work in the Philippines or do I need to learn by watching the vids?
Hi. Are the studs held of the container wall? I’m converting a one trip into a reefer for may business.
I’m planning on 4” of closed cell. Thanks
John, we are building brackets right now that are meant to hold the studs away from the wall to allow a continuous layer of foam around them. We have a steel stud bracket (SSB) meant to have the finished wall 2.5" away from the inside corrugations using 1 5/8" steel studs. We also have a wood stud bracket (WSB) meant to hold 2x4s 3.5" or 4" away from the inside corrugations. In your instance, the WSB using 2.5" steel studs would be a perfect solution and will assist you with the framing process. Email parts@thecontainerguy.ca if interested.
Looks nice how do you attach the steal studs to the container?
guess by welding
There’s a video of how they screw them in.
Do you place any kind of tape between the container and the stud tracks on the ceiling?
No we don't. We just came up with a Steel Stud Bracket (SSB) that mounts the top track to the 60mm tubing. It will work with 2.5" steel studs or what we have recently discovered works better, 1 5/8" steel studs held ~1" away from the wall. They'll be available on Amazon or containermodificationworld.com. I'll try to release a short video or post about it shortly. Stay tuned!
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thank you for the reply. That sounds great, do you have an estimated time when those SSB will be available? Cheers
@@tamlornchase3073 if you email parts@thecontainerguy.ca, we might have enough prototypes in stock to fill a small order. Otherwise, likely a couple weeks.
Great info 👍... Would you recommend using 1” closed cell spray foam first to seal the container, then using 2.5” studs to frame walls (3 5/8” studs on ceiling), then insulate with fiberglass insulation in between studs? ... thanks in advance
I would not foam first then stud later. The framing locked into the foam adds a ton of rigidity to the container. You could pull the framing away from the wall 1" if you want but make sure it's locked in place with foam otherwise your interior wall panels will have too much movement. There are a lot of people that don't insulate at all and others that only use fibreglass so the flash and batt system you suggest would work great in my opinion (except in the Arctic). I would use Rockwool Safe N Sound instead of fibreglass. 10 years ago, we were told 1" of foam is all that is required for a vapour barrier and that was later upgraded to 2" (likely because of the variation in spray thickness) so in my opinion it'll work. We've insulated containers in the past with only 1" of foam and there have never been signs of condensation in the winter.
@@TheContainerGuyTV thanks for the help and quick reply! 👍
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thanks for the info!… Was planning on using 2 1/2 inch steel studs for the walls and 3 5/8 inch steel studs to run the ceiling unless you recommend using “hat channel”… Did you secure the steel studs to the container wall before spray foam? Or let spray foam secure everything
@@JoshBarbe 2.5" studs on walls with top and bottom tracks, 3 5/8" (or even 5.5") in ceiling with no tracks on the ends, and spray foam locking everything in place is the way to go. You can tack your walls in place with scrap steel stud pieces to the top 60mm square tubing. Be careful with the back corner castings. You need to have your ceiling low enough (2" below the underside of the castings) to allow for a proper vapour barrier. Make sure you use stiffener bars.
@@TheContainerGuyTV great thanks!
Can you have big windows using steel studs frame?
How much does it cost to insulate a 40ft high cube container?
I imagine pricing fluctuates by location. Feel free to reach out to Luis at Komfort Insulation for suggested pricing on different envelopes or a quote if you're in Saskatchewan.
1280 walled sf x 3 $ psf approx here anyway, $3840.00 but u have to do it or ur going to be miserable and moldy and condensation will rust out ur home like a billion termites eat wood
Hey Channing!
Thanks so much for all the video's! What would be your advice if spray foaming is not an option for insulation? What would you say is second best?
What climate? What's the constraint? Budget or remote location?
@@TheContainerGuyTV I live in the Netherlands, so pretty moderate climate no extremes in heat or cold.
Constraints mainly being budget, speed and flexibility.
I have a one man woodworking business and i need to be out of my current shop in about two months. There's a chance I can put one or two 40' containers on the property to move my shop into.
I don't know what layout will work yet, so I thought to do a simple (more traditional) insulation job, so in a couple of months when i know what s decent layout is, i can take some of it apart and start adding windows and doors and such.
Wouldn’t it be easier to get a reefer that is preinsulated?
how would this insulation work in the hot climate of the Philippines?
So the cold roll is screwed to the face of the studs just to hold them in place until the spray job is done? Also, what kind of pain in the ass does this create for the electrician that has to follow the insulators? Also, have you ever just screwed hat channel to the tall side of the corrugations? I'm thinking about doing that, but I'd have to insulate the back of the hat channel before I screw it to the wall.
We played around with hat channel in the video below because we only had an inch of room for "framing". The roof corrugations wobbly even after lining it with plywood. If you are looking for a slender framing system, use 1 5/8" steel studs and pull them away from the corrugations 7/8". Then insulate with 2" closed cell spray foam. We have a Steel Stud Bracket bundle coming out shortly that will do all the thinking and guide people through the best framing method. czcams.com/video/b0_zBWi6a1M/video.html
@@TheContainerGuyTV I appreciate the response!! I've watched a couple more vids and you are a crafty dude. keep it up. I just subscribed and I plan to follow. I think it's pretty brilliant with your use of hat channel on the lid in the video you linked.
Would I be able to maintain 150 F with a average wood stove after that insulation ? Cold climate day 10 F 20 ft container ?
If you're trying to kiln-dry firewood using a container, consider an ex-reefer unit. They have full stainless steel interiors and great insulation.
Can you use PVC pipes to frame out walls/floors ceilings??
I'd like to think I could do anything but I don't see the purpose in framing with pipe
How to insulate an container home from 38-48 degree Celsius temperature?
The same way you do -38 to -48. Spray Foam. Could go up to 4" of foam. Containers get pretty narrow if you frame with anything larger than a 2x4. In 2x6 walls, a "flash and batt" system (2" of foam, 4" of batt) works well and is a less expensive option. Batt helps with sound so even 2" foam, 2" batt would be nice.
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Over time can the spray foam loosen fall and collect at the bottom of the container wall? I was warned against it for that reason.
Is that open or closed cell?
Before considering this type of home, check out this comprehensive report: czcams.com/video/i7yEDz6bCfU/video.html
The fact that you put actual container channels and called them garbage , thats rude .
Im unsubbing this is disrespectfull af
I don't understand the foam guy's English. Jesus... terrible
Turn on closed captioning