Thanks for sharing, I just make my own and it's working just fine. it was dificult to get aligned but finally the efforts pays off , now i'll have washer for the coming years Without expending hundred dollars. Saludos desde Mexico.
This video prompted me to try to repair my own. I went a little different route though. I turned the shaft down to 1.500" then made a spider from a 2" piece of 1.500x2.000 tubing. Then made up the arms from 3/4 inch black pipe, then made the pieces at the end from flat stock. Welded it in a jig to prevent warping, then pressed in the shaft, welded it in, painted it and it's up and running again. Thanks Ron!
Nice work, and the drum turns so true. Could you please comment or expand on your process to keep the spindle to spider arm 'True' this is your genius. Nice work. My Man, Very nice..
Thank you for showing us how you made your spider arm. I will find a fabricator and have one made. My machine is at least 20 yrs old , runs great and with the spider arm replacement hopefully it will run for 20 more. The washers with computer boards in them make me nervous. Could you list the size screws you used?
Thanks to all those that left comments. For those interested, the repair described in this video has been in place for 3 years now and the washing machine is still working great. There is nothing critical in making this type of spider except that you should strive to have accurate centering and height distance of the final shaft postion. If the arms are nearly identical, balance will not be a problem.
I know this is really old.... but after going through the process of replacing a spider arm recently, and thinking about why these may be made the way they are made (other than cost and weight), I concluded that they are intentionally made from aluminum because they act as sacrifical anodes and protect the steel shaft and bearing hub (molded into the plastic tub) from corrosion. With that in mind, a DIY steel spider arm could be improved by bolting lengths of bare aluminum to the arms. That would preserve the anodic protection. Although once those are corroded away the steel would start corroding. But at that point you know what youing on and can replace them.
Using aluminium is down to cost, some washing machines have stainless steel spiders, such as some of the high end and professional Miele models. I do believe the shaft is typically stainless steel, is on mine anyway and I would think the boss is too. The main cause of aluminium spider corrosion is crevice corrosion (aka oxygen concentration cell corrosion) due to bacteria and other gunge such as mould, fabric lint, grease, grime, detergent and conditioner residue forming a biofilm coating the spider, which depletes the surface oxygen to a varying degree across the surface, forming oxygen concentration cells with the points of lowest oxygen become the anodes where the corrosion occurs. My 15 year old washing machine still has its original aluminium spider, it was in excellent condition when I changed the bearings which had rusted because the rubber water seal on the shaft had worn out. The tub, spider etc, unsurprisingly were clean inside apart form a bit of limescale and limescale encrusted lint. I leave the door and draw open between washes, use powder rather than liquid, do occasional 60C+ washes to kill any bacteria and help clean the machine of detergent and fabric conditioner residue and use powder with oxygen bleach.
Fantastic job! That will Outlast any factory made spider arm. I just replaced one that was only 4 years old and completely disintegrated. The new one will probably only last 4 years to. Yours will probably last longer than the washing machine. Great job
I had the same issue on a Samsung front load machine. Was out of balance and I found that the spider arm was totally corroded. Luckily the part is available so I replaced it with a new one. Kinda wished I had coated it with something as I’m sure the new one will end up like the original in another 4 or 5 years!
@@martynh5410 that is a very short life for a spider. The low end I've seen is 7 years and the high mark is around 12 years. So how do you manage to kill yours in 4 to 5 years?
@@johndoe-vc1we Must be bad water perhaps! Or did Samsung use some cheap alloy for that part? We just sold the house complete with washer and dryer do I’m not too concerned about it now.
Nice job Ron....I let a new samsung out in a shed for a winter still in the packaging......I just know this is what the knocking is.....the dogs bark everytime I start the machine Hahahha....Well, till to fire up the welder. i know what tomorrows project is....I'll film it.
Thanks a lot for video. Sir.. When inserting the spider shaft after replacement, is it okay if i do not apply grease between the bearing and the shaft?
+Michael Shrader True. Just pissed that Sears won't sell the spider separately. They want $800 + for a drum and spider assembly. Cheaper places to buy online, of course, but you never know who the rip-off artists are. I finally created a fix using PC-7 and 1/4 x 6" 304 stainless rods. Drilled through the arm compartments and attached to the shaft. Not as nifty as the work shown in this vid, but effective.
Yep, still holding. PC7 in depressions to hold rods (1 in ea. arm). Drill out grooves, then 1 rod against center "rib" in each arm) from shaft to ends. More PC7 in depressions at all 3 bend points w/6 in. (I think) mending plates embedded in wet PC7 (let dry then drill out holes) and bolted thru other side. I only spin on Low now, but works just fine. Good luck. Over and out...
Used epoxy to rejoin arms, and cured each upright in vice before reinforcing as described above. Did _not_ drill through tub. Rods extend only to _back side_ of spider arm ends (opposite bolt holes). Drilled combination of holes and grooves (grooves where nec. to make rod insertion possible over entire length) through perpendicular, short cross ribs _up against_ center rib. Choose either side - only used one rod per arm to minimize weight for sake of motor. Then drilled holes just large enough for rods through _center alloy hub_ up to shaft, inserted rods and secured them in appropriate depressions and center hub holes w/ PC7 (including small "cup"/depression at hub). I believe there's a PC7 for marine application, but I used regular. Allow to cure. Then set mending plates in PC7 at arm curves (across break points). Used the PC7 here only for eventual, even disrib. of pressure across plates on arms. Attached plates on _both sides_ . Allowed to cure for ~ 72 hrs., Drilled holes, bolted plates together and installed. I only use "Low" spin cycle (I'm more pragmatic than curious) Works like a champ so far - 6 mos.
Question I have is what size t-bar stock did you use (it looks like maybe 1 3/8 or 1 inch)? And where did you get the t-bar stock and round plate from?
I did look into using stainless steel, but it was decided that it would probably be overkill -- I don't need it to last 50 years. Well cleaned (acid washed) and a good quality commercial grade enamel will probably protect the metal for many years and if any rust does take place, it probably would also be many years before that would cause any problem. The idea is to make a reasonable (years of use) alternative to the original.
You did a excellent job there, my only suggestion instead of painting it yourself, powder coating would give it a better life and more protection... But excellent work..
how come the frigidaire gallery series 417 washer i bought new in 2002 has never had issues like these? shes 15 years old and i only put shocks on last month. is it like a car? if you have a good one, youll tell 2 people but if its a lemon , you tell 12
Ron, my spider rotted out completely this summer after about 8 years. I was appalled to look on the web and see that it happens in every case, because the washer manufacturers would rather save a few dollars and have their customers buy a new one after the warranty runs out. I thought about making my own spider, but I seemed to be able to guilt Frigidaire into selling me a new drum and spider, which I then sprayed with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Paint. If I had seen your video, I would probably have found someone to weld one for me. Beautiful job, and a sad commentary on American Capitalism. Now, I'm just going to hope that another part doesn't break anytime soon.
The spider is submerged in water during the wash , so the concern is rust and what it will do to clothes. The original spider is cast aluminum alloy, which corrodes but does not rust.
I suspect that the use of aluminum is intentional because it acts a sacrifical anode. The steel shafts and the bearing hub (molded into the tub) are nearly prinstine in ever case I've see. And they are plain steel, not stainless. Evidence of the spider acting as a sacrificial anode.
Richard Huerbsch you can get them on Amazon for under $100. Except some electrolux models because they only sell the basket and spider as one part. That gets pricey. Get a speed queen.
@@LemkeR of course the electrolux one is mine, I think its called Murphy's Law or just bad luck, I'm trying to figure out if there is a real difference in the 4 brands.
@@berniemac8413 I've been looking for a replacement all around but I can't find any. the only official solution for indesit XWA 61252 is a full drum replacement so I can't be shure that any of the available spiders will fit. That really piss me off!
That would be nice if he did but the OEM looks like it was some sort of magnesium melted in with whatever could be found left over on the floor! It’s cheesy and designed for planned obsolescence!
@@aarontyrrell2931 it's aluminium die-cast alloy 3. How long it lasts is up to the user. It's not mentioned anywhere in the video how long it lasted. From what I've seen the low point is 5-7 years to failure and the high is 12-14 years. If people are closer to the low point then they are doing something wrong.
So let me get this straight. After all of that teardown (I've done many), you didn't wash the inner basket or outer basket with degreaser?!???? I use lye (sodium hydroxide), Zep Industrial Purple degreaser, to wash all internal components. I mean, what's the since in putting it back together dirty? So you can rinse your clothes in that filth? Then what's the since of washing clothes? Tub clean cycles don't work. Front load machines are disgusting and poorly designed - about 1/3 of the machine never sees water and gets filthy from splash water. I increase the water level sensor slightly and this helps but to really clean the machine it must be disassembled. Secondly, why didn't you use stainless steel? Also, these arms are casted or stamped for a reason. A weld is going to eventually break. There is massive centrifugal forces and vibrations on these arms even upwards of 1000 pounds of force when there's a full wet loan spinning slightly unbalanced. You should have also used epoxy primer before painting. I would have used a poly paint or even epoxy paint.
Why didn't you mill a new basket and shaft assembly from a block of stainless steel? If you listened to this guy you'd soon realize that that's the only correct repair method. He has all the answers, just ask him. Just kidding, dude sounds like a know it all douche. Horses for courses, dickweed
Thanks for the comment, Robert. How can the work here be improved here IS of interest to others. Your point about degreasers is spot on, I've seen numerous videos where the tub isn't even cleaned after the spider is replaced.
Absolutely fantastic salvage effort! Right to repair at its best.. Well done Ron, Thank you
I'm going to use 2x4's. Don't worry, don't worry. They're treated.
Really impressive DIY work Ron!
Thanks for sharing, I just make my own and it's working just fine. it was dificult to get aligned but finally the efforts pays off , now i'll have washer for the coming years Without expending hundred dollars. Saludos desde Mexico.
This video prompted me to try to repair my own. I went a little different route though. I turned the shaft down to 1.500" then made a spider from a 2" piece of 1.500x2.000 tubing. Then made up the arms from 3/4 inch black pipe, then made the pieces at the end from flat stock. Welded it in a jig to prevent warping, then pressed in the shaft, welded it in, painted it and it's up and running again. Thanks Ron!
Excellent job.
Nice work, and the drum turns so true.
Could you please comment or expand on your process to keep the spindle to spider arm 'True' this is your genius. Nice work.
My Man, Very nice..
wow, thank for your video,it helps me.good work done
Ron you are probably getting sick of this but really nice job. Like everyone else I need a spider for my he3washer as well. Thanks for the great video
Thank you for showing us how you made your spider arm. I will find a fabricator and have one made. My machine is at least 20 yrs old , runs great and with the spider arm replacement hopefully it will run for 20 more. The washers with computer boards in them make me nervous. Could you list the size screws you used?
You're the man
Thanks to all those that left comments. For those interested, the repair described in this video has been in place for 3 years now and the washing machine is still working great. There is nothing critical in making this type of spider except that you should strive to have accurate centering and height distance of the final shaft postion. If the arms are nearly identical, balance will not be a problem.
Nice work!
In the process of making one for my samsung washer, glad that I'm not alone.
ShitSung
Did you make it
wow... great job
I know this is really old.... but after going through the process of replacing a spider arm recently, and thinking about why these may be made the way they are made (other than cost and weight), I concluded that they are intentionally made from aluminum because they act as sacrifical anodes and protect the steel shaft and bearing hub (molded into the plastic tub) from corrosion. With that in mind, a DIY steel spider arm could be improved by bolting lengths of bare aluminum to the arms. That would preserve the anodic protection. Although once those are corroded away the steel would start corroding. But at that point you know what youing on and can replace them.
Using aluminium is down to cost, some washing machines have stainless steel spiders, such as some of the high end and professional Miele models. I do believe the shaft is typically stainless steel, is on mine anyway and I would think the boss is too. The main cause of aluminium spider corrosion is crevice corrosion (aka oxygen concentration cell corrosion) due to bacteria and other gunge such as mould, fabric lint, grease, grime, detergent and conditioner residue forming a biofilm coating the spider, which depletes the surface oxygen to a varying degree across the surface, forming oxygen concentration cells with the points of lowest oxygen become the anodes where the corrosion occurs.
My 15 year old washing machine still has its original aluminium spider, it was in excellent condition when I changed the bearings which had rusted because the rubber water seal on the shaft had worn out. The tub, spider etc, unsurprisingly were clean inside apart form a bit of limescale and limescale encrusted lint. I leave the door and draw open between washes, use powder rather than liquid, do occasional 60C+ washes to kill any bacteria and help clean the machine of detergent and fabric conditioner residue and use powder with oxygen bleach.
@@mels8966 I have started leaving the door open on mine so that it dries. Fingers crossed it lasts.
Hey Ron! Very nice. any chance I could purchase one from you?
Thanks for sharing. I'm making one out of steel also for mine. Using pipe instead of t bar. How is yours holding up?
Fantastic job! That will Outlast any factory made spider arm. I just replaced one that was only 4 years old and completely disintegrated. The new one will probably only last 4 years to. Yours will probably last longer than the washing machine. Great job
I had the same issue on a Samsung front load machine. Was out of balance and I found that the spider arm was totally corroded. Luckily the part is available so I replaced it with a new one. Kinda wished I had coated it with something as I’m sure the new one will end up like the original in another 4 or 5 years!
@@martynh5410 just remove and coat it asap.
@@redblue17 It’s such a pain to get that spider out, I’m not going to do that!!
@@martynh5410 that is a very short life for a spider. The low end I've seen is 7 years and the high mark is around 12 years. So how do you manage to kill yours in 4 to 5 years?
@@johndoe-vc1we Must be bad water perhaps! Or did Samsung use some cheap alloy for that part? We just sold the house complete with washer and dryer do I’m not too concerned about it now.
Nice job Ron....I let a new samsung out in a shed for a winter still in the packaging......I just know this is what the knocking is.....the dogs bark everytime I start the machine Hahahha....Well, till to fire up the welder. i know what tomorrows project is....I'll film it.
Nice job...
Thanks a lot for video.
Sir.. When inserting the spider shaft after replacement, is it okay if i do not apply grease between the bearing and the shaft?
Amazing. Exactly wat i need for my ge. How can i center that exactly?
Beautiful. Makes me wish I'd learned to weld, especially if I knew I was going to get a pos Kenmore frontloading washer...
+Mutt1961 Most all front-load washers experience this same problem... it's not Kenmore specific.
+Michael Shrader True. Just pissed that Sears won't sell the spider separately. They want $800 + for a drum and spider assembly. Cheaper places to buy online, of course, but you never know who the rip-off artists are. I finally created a fix using PC-7 and 1/4 x 6" 304 stainless rods. Drilled through the arm compartments and attached to the shaft. Not as nifty as the work shown in this vid, but effective.
Yep, still holding. PC7 in depressions to hold rods (1 in ea. arm). Drill out grooves, then 1 rod against center "rib" in each arm) from shaft to ends. More PC7 in depressions at all 3 bend points w/6 in. (I think) mending plates embedded in wet PC7 (let dry then drill out holes) and bolted thru other side. I only spin on Low now, but works just fine. Good luck. Over and out...
Used epoxy to rejoin arms, and cured each upright in vice before reinforcing as described above. Did _not_ drill through tub. Rods extend only to _back side_ of spider arm ends (opposite bolt holes). Drilled combination of holes and grooves (grooves where nec. to make rod insertion possible over entire length) through perpendicular, short cross ribs _up against_ center rib. Choose either side - only used one rod per arm to minimize weight for sake of motor. Then drilled holes just large enough for rods through _center alloy hub_ up to shaft, inserted rods and secured them in appropriate depressions and center hub holes w/ PC7 (including small "cup"/depression at hub). I believe there's a PC7 for marine application, but I used regular. Allow to cure. Then set mending plates in PC7 at arm curves (across break points). Used the PC7 here only for eventual, even disrib. of pressure across plates on arms. Attached plates on _both sides_ . Allowed to cure for ~ 72 hrs., Drilled holes, bolted plates together and installed. I only use "Low" spin cycle (I'm more pragmatic than curious) Works like a champ so far - 6 mos.
This is, of course, the non-welder alternative. I'd obviously go with the vid solution above if I had the skills and tools. lol
Question I have is what size t-bar stock did you use (it looks like maybe 1 3/8 or 1 inch)? And where did you get the t-bar stock and round plate from?
Nice job Ron. Had any trouble aligning? My 8 year old miele that costed €1300,- has got the same problem. Going to make myself one.
Gr8 job...☺
That is fine work, but how did you check and straighten tit o get it to run true?
I did look into using stainless steel, but it was decided that it would probably be overkill -- I don't need it to last 50 years. Well cleaned (acid washed) and a good quality commercial grade enamel will probably protect the metal for many years and if any rust does take place, it probably would also be many years before that would cause any problem. The idea is to make a reasonable (years of use) alternative to the original.
Ron G Rules!!!
Very good 👍
How did you get the shaft out? it looks like the the spider just fell apart and it was easy.
Did you do anything for balancing after welding or it was ok
You did a excellent job there, my only suggestion instead of painting it yourself, powder coating would give it a better life and more protection... But excellent work..
how come the frigidaire gallery series 417 washer i bought new in 2002 has never had issues like these? shes 15 years old and i only put shocks on last month. is it like a car? if you have a good one, youll tell 2 people but if its a lemon , you tell 12
Ron, my spider rotted out completely this summer after about 8 years. I was appalled to look on the web and see that it happens in every case, because the washer manufacturers would rather save a few dollars and have their customers buy a new one after the warranty runs out. I thought about making my own spider, but I seemed to be able to guilt Frigidaire into selling me a new drum and spider, which I then sprayed with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Paint. If I had seen your video, I would probably have found someone to weld one for me. Beautiful job, and a sad commentary on American Capitalism. Now, I'm just going to hope that another part doesn't break anytime soon.
since the spider and drum are sold as one part number the whole thing is lifetime warranted
The spider is submerged in water during the wash , so the concern is rust and what it will do to clothes. The original spider is cast aluminum alloy, which corrodes but does not rust.
I suspect that the use of aluminum is intentional because it acts a sacrifical anode. The steel shafts and the bearing hub (molded into the tub) are nearly prinstine in ever case I've see. And they are plain steel, not stainless. Evidence of the spider acting as a sacrificial anode.
best! correct and better design than all washer mfg!
Good repair however would like to have seen it running.
So if i send you the shaft are you making these for people yet?
How do you remove the shaft from the spider?
how did u get the shaft straight and how far is the shaft up off the tub
About this much.
Can I make a hydro extractor using this method?
I really like the video esp the cat at the wnd 😾😾
you need to make these and sell them I would buy one...mine just blew
Nice job stainless would have been nice you may get a lot of rusting on drum
What do you use to paint it
Ron G..
How much would you charge a person to make a new spider if old shaft assy was shipped to you?..
Richard Huerbsch you can get them on Amazon for under $100. Except some electrolux models because they only sell the basket and spider as one part. That gets pricey. Get a speed queen.
@@LemkeR of course the electrolux one is mine, I think its called Murphy's Law or just bad luck, I'm trying to figure out if there is a real difference in the 4 brands.
Hi lg washing machine spider got cracked will u repair and give and how much it will cost
Washer's Tank Balance ok ?
Hi how did you get your shaft out my shaft is putting up a fight from hell
Spider!! Really!!
Nice idea! How did you remove the shaft from the spider assembly?
Did you find a proper way?
Did you find a proper way?
No I didn’t. I said screw it and bought a new one off Amazon. Was like $90.
@@berniemac8413 I've been looking for a replacement all around but I can't find any. the only official solution for indesit XWA 61252 is a full drum replacement so I can't be shure that any of the available spiders will fit. That really piss me off!
wish i could have it as mine samsung spider flange broke and ends ceased badly on drum ,
How do I order one?
could I do this project using a soldering iron to make the spider?
Maybe brazing yes, but solder? No, maybe silver solder. *high temp solder, but then you are in the brazing world..
The type of man the world is afraid of…
HIS CAT
Why don't you make spider's and sale it i need a spider for GE Frontloader and here is the part number WH45X10079
What about rust in your washing?!
Ok I had to watch the whole video 😅
That will last a lot lot longer than oem
He didn't mention what metal was used to make it ? Why won't it also be subject to corrosion like the previous one?
That would be nice if he did but the OEM looks like it was some sort of magnesium melted in with whatever could be found left over on the floor! It’s cheesy and designed for planned obsolescence!
@@aarontyrrell2931 it's aluminium die-cast alloy 3. How long it lasts is up to the user. It's not mentioned anywhere in the video how long it lasted. From what I've seen the low point is 5-7 years to failure and the high is 12-14 years. If people are closer to the low point then they are doing something wrong.
Can you make me one!? i can only find the drum and spider sold together.. I just want the darn spider!
creat in brass coz this will get rust
why didn´t you used inox? like this is going to rust anyway, pitty for the jobb!
Swiss-Wash
Sp
So let me get this straight. After all of that teardown (I've done many), you didn't wash the inner basket or outer basket with degreaser?!???? I use lye (sodium hydroxide), Zep Industrial Purple degreaser, to wash all internal components. I mean, what's the since in putting it back together dirty? So you can rinse your clothes in that filth? Then what's the since of washing clothes? Tub clean cycles don't work. Front load machines are disgusting and poorly designed - about 1/3 of the machine never sees water and gets filthy from splash water. I increase the water level sensor slightly and this helps but to really clean the machine it must be disassembled.
Secondly, why didn't you use stainless steel? Also, these arms are casted or stamped for a reason. A weld is going to eventually break. There is massive centrifugal forces and vibrations on these arms even upwards of 1000 pounds of force when there's a full wet loan spinning slightly unbalanced.
You should have also used epoxy primer before painting. I would have used a poly paint or even epoxy paint.
Give Ron a break!!!..."I woulda"....."You shoulda"...…"You coulda"..... No one really cares....WTF???
Why didn't you mill a new basket and shaft assembly from a block of stainless steel? If you listened to this guy you'd soon realize that that's the only correct repair method. He has all the answers, just ask him. Just kidding, dude sounds like a know it all douche. Horses for courses, dickweed
Thanks for the comment, Robert. How can the work here be improved here IS of interest to others. Your point about degreasers is spot on, I've seen numerous videos where the tub isn't even cleaned after the spider is replaced.