How To Static Time Motorcycle Ignition Points
Vložit
- čas přidán 3. 02. 2020
- Learning how to adjust or install ignition points on your motorcycle is vital knowledge to gain when owning an older bike. Static timing is the easiest sure fire way to know that your motorcycles ignition timing is where it needs to be to either get the bike running or diagnose an ignition system issue.
I hope this helps someone out there in the wide world of motorcycles! If it does, be sure to share it with a friend to help them along the way!
Be sure to sign up to the MotorcycleMD Mailing list to stay up to date on all Live Q&A's and to grab your copy of the infamous MotoMD Troubleshooting Cheatsheet that I put together for you to keep!
www.themotorcyclemd.com/
Need a tool or chemical? Not sure what to get? Check out the brand new MCMD TOOL BOX store front here:
www.amazon.com/shop/themotorc...
ALL MotorcycleMD SHIRTS ARE MARKED WAY DOWN!
Limited sizing and count.
Show your support and grab a shirt dirt cheap before they are gone!
motorcyclemd.com/shop/
P.S
Let me know when you are ready to really dive into fixing your motorcycle. The inner circle is ready to help! Find out more here:
www.themotorcyclemd.com/mcmd-... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Years ago, when I used to set the timing on my Commando, I placed an AM radio next to the engine and tuned it to a no channel (hiss), and would hear a 'crack' when it fired. Saves having to look at the light and the timing mark together.
Haha that is terrific!
@@TheMotorcycleMD Try it, no wires, no bulbs.
Nifty.
I rewired the whole bike and had the coils wired opposite and couldnt figure it out until your explanation of the spark plug grounding scenario. Thank you 72 cb350 that last ran 20 years ago is alive!
Static timing a Kettering ignition system always starts with ensuring the points are properly gapped. Only then do you start timing. Doing it backwards guarantees you additional work.
Helpful insight and very true!
great explanation, loved the excitement - "thats a quick explanation of how amazing your ignition system is!"
Great video! I had used the beeping function on a multimeter in order to hear that points open/closed spot. All the while I had an LED blinker sitting on the shelf next to me. I've been wanting to recheck timing on mt GT380 so I might just have to use the blinker method.
MAN SO AWESOME! I'm really glad you explained how the spark jumps the points and then has to find ground and goes to the spark plug. I've been looking for this type of information. Thank you so much!!
Best explanation I’ve found on you tube
Hi there Cody,thanks again friend for a great tutorial about static timing,thank you friend🙂🙂🙂
I'm going to be doing this tonight as I finish up the cb750 engine :)
FINISHING UP!! Whoa! Man I am behind on your content! You’re flying!
@@TheMotorcycleMD Doesn't feel like it. Owned the thing for almost a year now.
You need a battery tender so your battery is always maintained. I'm old school & always preferred points over electronic. Good video.
I called second.....Great video Cody. This might help me with the problem I'm having with my 750.
That would be awesome! 🤙🏻
Great to see you posting again Cody! Have you seen my latest acquisition? 1975 Honda CB550 that I traded an old rifle for that was worth about $350. This 550 is a blast! Keep on keeping on Brother! Cheers!! You're Indiana Bud. Zip~
Hey Zip! Thanks for dropping by! I need to check out your 550! Fun clean style bikes and man what a trade!
Hey my friend, can I ask you a motorcycle repair related question as I have a option on a motor with a clutch problem.
Working on an old triumph- filed and adjusted point gap and it is kicking back when trying to start it. How does adjusting the point gap affect timing?
Do you have a video of doing the timing on a Honda Shadow spirit vt1100 because I took off my cam and forgot to mark mine
Why is it that my led testlight burns with points open and closed? Hooked up same as you.
Fantastic easy to follow tutorial ... you should be a teacher budd ... Thanks heaps
well done
This was a great explanation, but I'm curious about what keeps the battery from shorting when the points are closed and the circuit is connected?
When the points are closed the battery is applying power to the primary side of the coil. It's not a short just like turning on a light isn't a short.
I only use AGM batteries in my bikes. No issues since switching. Before that on my Honda Shadow VT1100CF I had to get a new battery every year. Since that time, I've not had to buy one, and it's been about 4 years, and that includes NOT trickle charting the batter over the winter... The one I have cost about $110 (US), but now, 4 years later, that same battery is over $200. What!?!??
My question is this.... Rather than use a light to show the points opening, why not remove the spark plug, reconnect the lead and lay the plug on the motor; then you can see/hear the actual spark at the plug? Or, is there a significant delay between the points opening and the plug sparking???
Thats how I just timed my RD350
Would this work on a electronic ignition ?
I’ve never tried it, most factory electronic ignition are not adjustable. Aftermarket, yes. So even if you could? Why?
TheMotorcycleMD interested in seeing if the same principle would apply. Would be very useful when you have a fresh rebuilt engine and you need it to fire on the first few kicks. Be interesting as a follow up video.
Informative video , setting aside those maimed ears.
should've got more Likes!
The reason that setting the ignition SLIGHTLY retarded works better than setting it 'exactly' i.e. to the mark/by the book is down to the huge difference in modern fuel vs the fuel from the 70's and 80's.
I guess I’m first to comment
The NUMBER of windings. Not the amount. You have not explained that a collapsing primary field excites current in the secondary windings. And you could use your hands to show arrangement. I know what you’re talking about. But people who don’t, won’t.
this video just dragging on and on about irrelevant information.
just get straight to the points.
you have a lot of knowledge butplease get to thepoint and dont over explain things
It's not the "weight of the crank shaft" that's causing the markings to move. It's actually the magnets on rotor interacting with the windings in stator which results in rotor not wanting to stay where you place it. As soon as you stop holding it with the wrench the magnets force the rotor to turn to a point where the net magnetic force is zero. And you don't feel the stiffness turning rotor on some engines probably because the stator comes off with the cover in some cases so magnets in rotor don't feel an induced force from the removed stator 😁 I could be slightly wrong of course but that's my limited experience from working on one engine 😂
Wow, very informative, cool!