Don't you need to take off the radiator? I have a makita 1002z is smaller than makita 450, just need to remove the fan to access the screw with the impact wrench?
The radiator does not need to be removed on a 320d, only the fan unit and shroud, but on a 330d the radiator would have to be removed. On a 320d there is enough room to get a 3/4 airgun on the bottom pulley easily as there is lots of space between the pulley and the radiator. (I can climb into the gap and shut the bonnet) :) Hope that helps!
Although its worth pointing out my 450BTW did not have enough power to loosen the bolt, i had to use a CP 1/2 airgun on a large compressor running 10.5bar.
I didnt. If i were going to i would have removed the starter motor and used a large screwdriver on the starter ring gear to prevent the engine turning. Fortunately the 1/2 drive airgun undid the bolt, and the 3/4 impact made sure it was tight enough afterwards. I also marked the bolt to pulley as well so i could keep an eye on the bolt and make sure it wasnt coming loose as i was unable to correctly torque the pulley bolt. The specs i found were 100nm + 60* + 60* I estimate the torque of my bolt to be 100nm + 90* so im around 30* under recommended torque. No problems thus far, although i may try to tighten again in 100miles or so with the airgun again, just to see if i can tighten it more now its bedded in.
I don't think I managed the amount of was supposed to be tightened. So I just did it up to FT. And marked the bolt to the pulley so I could check in the future and see if it has moved. No movement so far. I think I managed between 90-180 degrees..
Underneath there's an access hole to flywheel big screwdriver in there with someone holding it.....1metre long 1/2 power bar on the nut cracked right off
There is but first you have to remove the front plastic cover followed by the alloy sump guard 8 bolts 16mm then 3 clips and your in the area a small chisel ground to fit in the flywheel teeth and it comes off easy with no drama without any gun just bar & 22mm socket Then torque to 300 ftlb with crank locked up or your just guessing Dude..do it right
You have to get a lot of room to do, I'll report on it, and it s going to be winning if I really, "the assistant help. Tienes que mejorar mucho tus grabaciones, informarte un poco, saldrás ganando si de verdad quieres ayudar. Aprobado justito.
How did it go using the gun did the balancer ever come loose
Don't you need to take off the radiator? I have a makita 1002z is smaller than makita 450, just need to remove the fan to access the screw with the impact wrench?
The radiator does not need to be removed on a 320d, only the fan unit and shroud, but on a 330d the radiator would have to be removed. On a 320d there is enough room to get a 3/4 airgun on the bottom pulley easily as there is lots of space between the pulley and the radiator. (I can climb into the gap and shut the bonnet) :) Hope that helps!
Although its worth pointing out my 450BTW did not have enough power to loosen the bolt, i had to use a CP 1/2 airgun on a large compressor running 10.5bar.
How did you lock the crankshaft?
I didnt. If i were going to i would have removed the starter motor and used a large screwdriver on the starter ring gear to prevent the engine turning. Fortunately the 1/2 drive airgun undid the bolt, and the 3/4 impact made sure it was tight enough afterwards. I also marked the bolt to pulley as well so i could keep an eye on the bolt and make sure it wasnt coming loose as i was unable to correctly torque the pulley bolt. The specs i found were 100nm + 60* + 60* I estimate the torque of my bolt to be 100nm + 90* so im around 30* under recommended torque. No problems thus far, although i may try to tighten again in 100miles or so with the airgun again, just to see if i can tighten it more now its bedded in.
So you tightend it to 100 nm and then tightened another 180 degrees afterwards? Just to make sure I get it right lol
I don't think I managed the amount of was supposed to be tightened. So I just did it up to FT. And marked the bolt to the pulley so I could check in the future and see if it has moved. No movement so far. I think I managed between 90-180 degrees..
Underneath there's an access hole to flywheel big screwdriver in there with someone holding it.....1metre long 1/2 power bar on the nut cracked right off
There is but first you have to remove the front plastic cover followed by the alloy sump guard 8 bolts 16mm then 3 clips and your in the area a small chisel ground to fit in the flywheel teeth and it comes off easy with no drama without any gun
just bar & 22mm socket
Then torque to 300 ftlb with crank locked up or your just guessing Dude..do it right
You have to get a lot of room to do, I'll report on it, and it s going to be winning if I really, "the assistant help. Tienes que mejorar mucho tus grabaciones, informarte un poco, saldrás ganando si de verdad quieres ayudar. Aprobado justito.