What is Carbon Fiber Nylon Filament and Should You 3D Print It - Pt. 1
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- čas přidán 6. 10. 2020
- BUY HERE: visionminer.com/materials#nylon
Carbon Fiber Nylon aka CF Nylon. What is it? Think Zip-ties -- polyamide is almost everywhere you look. “Nylons” worn by women and bandits, velcro, zip-ties, ropes, nuts bolts & washers, circuit board hardware, and a ton of places you never knew it was. It’s been around for years!
Carbon-fiber Nylon in 3D printing uses the same, awesome material -- with chopped carbon fibers embedded throughout. This adds to the rigidity of the material - all the tiny carbon fibers create stiffness, and also make the part slightly lighter. It also increases dimensional accuracy -- because the fibers hold the polymer in place, less shifting and warping occurs at the edges and stress points. Regarding dimensional accuracy -- thanks to the fibers holding the polymer in place, less curling and warping occurs at the edges and stress points within the part. This also makes it much easier to print, especially if you don’t have a heated chamber. This also makes it much easier to print, especially if you don’t have a heated chamber. There are also continuous fiber-filled nylons with even more strength but these require special printers. Suited for structural parts, functional prototypes, and custom end-use production parts. Often we see continuous fiber from Markforged, or their Onyx material, which is a carbon-fiber nylon blend, just like ours -- except, we have data showing the 3DXTech brand is significantly stronger than the Markforged -- not only that but much cheaper -- the only difference is, you’ll have to print it yourself (and it will look just as good).
Most common printers can print it -- Prusa i3’s, higher-end Flashforges, Ultimakers, even Ender 3’s. You basically need a printer that will do 120 on the bed, and 260 on the nozzle. A heated chamber will help a LOT with bigger parts but isn’t required. Next -- it’s super Strong - some blends at 25% carbon fill are literally comparable to aluminum -- they’re calling it black aluminum. The addition of carbon fiber increases the modulus significantly - Blends from Markforged have strength to weight ratios higher than 6061-T6 aluminum, in some cases
And it’s about 24 times stronger and 27 times stiffer than ABS. CF Nylon also has a great matte-black finish, kind of looks metallic from the reflections of carbon, and really hides the layer lines -- meaning you can print faster, with bigger layers, and you will still have a really good-looking part. This means more production, more parts, in less time! Lastly, this stuff works great with no support material, using itself as the support, or using soluble supports like PVA, Aquasys 120, or other materials coming out on the market now.
Anyway, that’s why we love carbon-fiber nylon -- do you? Let us know in the comments what your favorite part about CFNylon is, or if you’ve got any questions!
At Vision Miner, we specialize in Functional 3D printing, especially high-performance plastics like PEEK, ULTEM, PPSU, PPS, CFPA, and more. If you're interested in using functional 3D printing and materials in your business, feel free to reach out, and we can help you make the right choice for your application.
Call 833-774-6863 or email contact@visionminer.com, and we're here to help!
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Few things you forgot to mention. CF PA ("Nylon" is a DuPont brand name), is manufactured using different types of polyamides and different percentages. Most CF PA is created using a high percentage of PA 12 which is lower melting temperature and easier to print. However it is also has considerably less strength, hence why your levers were easier to bend. The higher temperature CF PA is manufactured with PA6. PA 6 is much harder to print, requires higher temperatures at the nozzle, higher bed temperatures, and higher temperatures in the enclosed cabinets. But it is much stronger. There are other higher temperature CF PA products which contain percentages of Ultem, Peek and Pekk in order to increase strength and heat deflection. Yes the addition of composite to PA lowers its tendency to shrink, warp and peel off your print bed. Some filament manufactures, such as Proto Pasta, add drywall dust to their filament as a composite.
You must use a hardened nozzle while printing abrasive filaments, such as carbon fiber. Most of the temperature guidelines are based upon an Olsson ruby nozzle and not hardened steel. If you use a steel nozzle, I have found that you need to add 10-15 degrees higher at the nozzle. The reason is that the Olsson nozzle is made from brass or copper and conducts heat much better than the steel. You can print these filaments with many of the regular printers, but you will have less layer adhesion than you would with a printer that can print +300C. Adding a ruby nozzle to some of the regular printers will increase your chances of a complete melt and layer adhesion.
Fan cooling is normally not used when printing PA. However, when printing small areas on a large part, intermediate spot cooling may keep the PA from becoming too hot and drooping. I use exterior fans and vaned concentrators for this.
Dehydration of PA is required. PA 12 is hygroscopic (tendency to absorb moisture from the air) and the usual listed time to dehydrate these filaments will apply. However PA 6 has twice the ability to absorb moisture and requires much longer to dehydrate. Metal aerated filaments spools, such as those sold by Vision Miner, are required. This is because the 80-90C heat to dehydrate PA 6 will melt plastic spools. I dehydrate at these temperatures for 48-72 hours depending on the type of PA and how it was stored in a particular climate.
Lastly, thank you for your video, I am an engineer and manufacture who specializes in plastics. I am also a customer of yours. I 3D print exclusively in polyamides, approximately 2-5Kg of PA6 a week. I manufacture 10,000 Kg of raw polyamides annually.
Hi, your comment is very interesting, thank you! I want to print CF nylon for RC car parts. I read that you recommend the filamatrix. I live in europe, do you recommend other brand ? I was thinking about PA12 mostly (easier to print). Thaak you for your answer.
The CF part compared to the HTNCF25 is actually PA6+CF. Excellent information in your comment, though! Dehydration is incredibly important, thus our drying kits: www.visionminer.com/drykit
Rock on! Epic information! By the way, we're happy to extend a discount on whatever you like, printing in bulk like that :) Just give us an email and we'll make it happen!
@@bricoletout I think that brand is less important than the actual technical specifications of the product. Depending on what you are making for your RC car parts, you may not require ultimate heat resistance or stiffness. You may not need Carbon Fiber at all and may be able to use GF or pure PA6. CarbonX™ PA12+CF is lower temperature and easy to print as an option.
@@VisionMiner Yes, I understand now that you were comparing: CarbonX™ PA6+CF (Gen3), CarbonX™ HTN+CF [High Temp Nylon]. The HTN is not just pure PA6, but has additional higher temperature resin added in order to increase the melting temperature, modulus and tensile strength. Both are great products that you sell from www.visionminer.com.
@@MichaelJHathaway Thank you for your answer. I really appreciate. As I was looking for a good nylon, I was thinking that CF may not be needed (I need flex a little). I'm printing nitro RC car part near the engine (who reach 100°C). You seems to know well nylon. Do you have a business/ email where I can discuss with you if needed (or even for business opportunities?) Thank you.
Loïc from France (loicdelaserre@gmail.com)
"I'm talking about the common material that can be used in more common printers (continues to list of printers costing thousands of dollars)
*Me*: Looks over at my Ender 3. "Ah yes, my professional workstation".
Slap a Mosquito hotend on there, along with an enclosure (cardboard boxes DO work...) and you've got quite a workhorse that can do a lot still :)
One of my printers is an Ender 3 (Ender 3 Evolution). I have modified it to use a Mosquito hotend and Duet 2 main board. It prints nylon all day. It prints with the same quality as my Pulse/Prusa printers. Another hotend option is to use the E3D copper heat block, 50w heater, Slice Engineering thermistor and heat sink of our choice. As long as you are using a Duet Mainboard, you can use just about any modification you can dream up.
I print Sainsmart eCF+PA on my Ender 3 Pro with a cheap and nasty clone MS all metal hot end... I love it, I'm making loads of functional parts for my car with it!
There's tons of mods for the Ender 3, some of them specifically aimed at running these kinds of materials, like all metal hot ends and full heated printer enclosures.
You should send a sample over to CNC Kitchen. He's always producing great videos about material properties. But quite frankly, I'm wondering if his DIY material test machine can handle that stuff 🤔
i wanna see him test Ultem and peek+CF more than this tbh :)
ultem is insane. the datasheets say ultem 1010 is 60%-40% more stronger than freaking pure PC?
cnc kitchen has tested cf nylon before. idk abt cf peek or cf ultem, but those seem to be around 20-40% stronger than cf nylon in pure tensile strength
I really like the direction your videos have evolved into. Very informative and professional.
Would love to see a heated chamber vs. no heated chamber comparison of the same printer & part in CF nylon.
250 nozzle 60 bed no fan works perfect on creality cr 6.
Thanks, that's all that matters.
glass bed no skirt/glue stick? I'll have to try some. (obviously no brass nozzle lol)
@@evlsc400 GLASS BED..STAEDTLER NORIS GLUE STICK..START PRINT AND FORGET IT.
I print with Markforged Onxy material at work, on their printer, and I have to admit that I love printing with that material at 100% infill. At 100% infill, it feels as dense as a block of solid wood. I've broken one too many metal tools and blades trying to clean supports off of printed models so if his claims are true about it being stronger than Onxy, that material must be a beast.
You have inspired me to dabble with with this material after I do some upgrades to my e3v2. I am still a freshy to 3d printing though
I have had great mechanical very miniscule scale parts done with Markforged Onyx Chopped CF.
we actually use it for our top plates on our 3D printed drones at 100% infill
my favorite for cf nylon. Priced far as well we have it in our shop 2
Thanks for the information. I was looking for the right material to make a large shell for my 2 peddler assist elecric moble house unit that I am building from the ground up. I found 2 seaters that were peddle assist that were electric but the the frame much too weak for what I'm trying to build. I'm not crazy about the outer shell being solid black in the summer heat but I'm sure I can creat an outer snap-on shell that will be interchangable with lighter colors and designs. Again thanks for taking the time to make this awesome and informative video Vision Miner.
Great idea! PCTG might be good too :)
Bought a Mega zero 2.0 with 2kg of CF nylon included. Hence my presence here XD Sticking around regardless.
Great content.
I’ve found that starting the bed at 90c initial and then bringing it down to 35c for the majority of the print keeps it from warping off the plate. Guess it depends on how much cf is in your nylon. Printed a little pla and then when straight to printing cf nylon, been going great once I figured out spray adhesive works really well in keeping the print on your bed. This is all at an ambient temperature of about 72degrees f
Pretty sweet. Cant wait to try it.
I was in skunk works on the carbon fiber building the b2 bomber and the machine laid a three inch wide x one sixteenth thick but had to be run through a autoclave for hours but was tough as steel
Thank you for the great information.
This is an interesting video about printing with nylon. I am currently designing some custom hardware (I initially printed it in PLA as a master model for Urethane Casting) but now, looking at this, I may end up printing the final parts in Nylon. But I am wondering if the process of post processing of PLA/ABS, also applies to CF Nylon? I have also read that it is very difficult to get Nylon to stick to itself.
So, what steps can I take to ensure I can do things like glue multiple parts together on a nylon part? The Nylon model will be a final part to be used. Great video btw.
I didn't know you could overdry nylon; really interesting
I'm a small business owner and I have a 3D printer that runs the this pretty well. My curiosity is what advantage would carbon fiber polycarbonate have over the nylon
Great video, learned a lot. Quick question, would this be good for printed parts that will be outside (Miami weather)? If not, which is a strong material that would and that is accessible to us mortals?
“It’s been around for yeeeears”
I want to print lattice boom sections and tower sections with a 3D printer and obviously carbon fibre would be a huge advantage to this as light weight extremely strong parts will be more desirable
Definitely check out the new HTN CF25! visionminer.com/products/htn-cf25
How heat resistant is it?
It is very expensive so I could only use it for the final iteration once my part prints well in say PLA or PETG
thank you that looks amazing. what 3d printer do you recomend?
I mean, it depends on the budget, but for $7500 you can't go wrong with the Funmat HT!
I printed multiple parts in matter hackers CF nylon on my mini prusa. It prints really well. 255/100 temps. I printed in an enclosure I built myself.
Heck yeah!
Does it stink?
@@rcplayday7937 No it doesn't stink. The enclosure contains most of the smell. But the smell isn't bad at all.
@@3d-obsession662 thanks, I just got a roll of easy nylon, I dont have an enclosure is it a must have?
@@rcplayday7937 You should definitely enclose it. My first enclosure was a cardboard box. I made a lack enclosure and I bought an enclosure from Wham Bam. The Wham Bam enclosure is damn good. It's not that expensive either.
thinking of aero parts for automotive applications or just for design. Wonder how well these would fare in UV throughout time without a clear coat. Thanks for the informative video
The CF is a natural UV absorber and will help aid in any degradation caused by UV attack. PA’s aren’t horrible on their own and the addition of CF will aid in this as well, so it's pretty good!
I've used eSun's CF Nylon with a hardened nozzle and it prints great and the texture looks great and the strength is also amazing. Why don't you send a sample of your filament to CNC Kitchen to let him test it and compare to other brands.
I'm amazed by the filament properties and I think I'll try on my cr 6 (automotive parts) . Just have a quick concern about the particles volatility during the extrusion as carbon fibers have a diameter of 5-10 μm.
first time I've seen it. Newbie to printing
I've been using a MarkForged Pro with ONYX material to print several workpiece fixtures and prototypes. The printer has the option of embedding continuous fiberglass, but that's not an option I use as often. The parts come out fairly clean with minimal layer lines. I can't tweak any of the settings on the Markforged printer though, so I would worry about trying another brand of similar filament. The printer doesn't have a heated chamber or bed, but I haven't had any warping issues on lower-profile parts.
I use a Markforged 2 at work. It can imbed CF into the part but I don't usually need it. When I do need the extra strength though it is great! The parts become very stiff flat & strong. They advertise it to be as strong as AL but from my experience, I don't I don't think so but still very good. I like the machine & rerely have an issue with it.
Onyx is nice, but like you said, you're super limited on an expensive machine. We get incredible results with the multiple blends of CF we carry -- CFPA6, CFPA12, and CFPPA (CFHTN) --- all of which are stronger and more rigid than Onyx alone, and actually more rigid than the fiberglass embedded parts -- we know this, as we duplicated their samples and tested :) However, when it comes to super crazy parts, the embedded CF still does shine.
awesome video
Great 👍 video. Is CF PA good for print in place bearing? Or is Delrin a better choice? If neither than what would you suggest?
Delrin is so hard to print, we don't recommend it to anyone.... CFPA is abrasive, but HTN is probably your best bet -- self-lubricating nylon, super strong, and designed as a drop in replacement for delrin :) check out visionminer.com/materials to check it out!
Hello, here's a message from the future, haha. I've just acquired a Bambulab X1C with the goal of printing in nylon-CF based on what you've mentioned, but I really have no idea what I can print.
I want to make speakers out for this stuff possibly , its a thinker
Thanks for great and very promising content! Could you please provide a link to a 25% carbon fill blend so I get it correct?
Here you go! visionminer.com/products/htn-cf25
Can you try the salt remelt process on it, and see how this influences it's mechanical properties?
Investment casting works better than salt -- but anything brought up to melting temps and then cooled will have an effect, although interlayer adhesion on these parts are already very good :) Possibly in a future video!
Looks great but can Epoxy bond well onto CF nylon?. Unfortunately I expect not. I've made 140. Meters of 100% CF square tubing (the old fashioned way - manually off a mandrel) and now about to tackle making the connectors. I love the idea of 3D printing them to insert into the ends of the tubes to make box configurations but they need to be bondable with epoxy. Also only 25% CF is not really that desirable - i really need 50% plus, is that possible?
great stuff I use it all the time but we tried one of our drone frames out of it it's not very impact resistant like regular nylon 910
Interesting, I’m waiting on both of these filaments, 3DXtech CF nylon and Taulman 910 to see how they both perform (using Prusa MK3S)
How do you find ease of printing with the 910 vs CF Nylon?
Definitely more brittle with the CF, while much more rigid!
I feel like that would be due more to its rigidity compared to 910. Generally softer stuff is more impact resistant.
I noticed after it time the parts get super flexible as it's absorbed moisture. Still really strong but not as rigid.
Assuming that could be countered with more infill. I'd be interested to know what infil your brake lever has.
These ones were actually printed solid, all outlines, which is why it's so impressive :)
yes it prints great, and minimal warping with low heat bed. but is it really advisable? with the fumes to print it open?
No fumes are ever advisable in a poorly ventilated area.... but what else can you do without fume extraction? Do the best you can :)
Can't wait to try out that HTN CF25 and HTN-Z
Wait.. are you guys talking about Essentium or MarkForged?
Or new 3DXTECH HTN+CF?
I just got 3DXTECH, but it doesn't say what's the percentage of CF?
@@Sleepery22 I am talking about the Essentium products. But I do use 3DXTECH materials and it always works flawlessly.
HTNCF25 is essentium, CFHTN is 3DXTech (it's amazing, by the way..... I have been printing it all week and I can't stop!)
Percentage is usually 10-13% in filament -- with Essentium, they used a coaxial-extruder method, so it actually has a sheath of nylon around the outside, while the inside is packed with the 25% carbon. That stuff is nearly as rigid as aluminum!
@@VisionMiner the HTN-CF25 is my next purchase. Right now im burning through a 2.5 kg spool of the HTN-Z for some hazardous area splash guards and so far all the tests look promising.
I still wonder WHY it's flexible in the spool while it hardens after being heated.
Any material science expert here willing to explain about the composition structure before and after it's being heated?
Anyone?
I'm always on the look out for different materials to try for printing RC airplanes. How well would this filament work with thinwall (single wall) RC airplane prints?
I was thinking the same
Yeah i will build a bike with CF.. thank you
Would love to have a comparison between filament product to it's natural? Counterpart in strength.
Ie ABS = wood. CFPEEK = aluminium(billet, forged, 6061t6?)
You could do your ABC ranking with it.
I like it --- might take some time but we'll see what we can come up with!
@Clint Savage that is extremely optimistic comparing ABS to wood and CFPEEK to aluminum. In reality, ABS has lower tensile strength and young's modulus than even PLA, nevermind wood. No plastic printed on a FDM printer reaches young's modulus of even stronger softwood species, and being even in the same ballpark as aluminum is science fiction until you start using 3d printers capable of laying down continuous fibers, which will cost you an order of magnitude more than a regular FDM printer.
Any recommendations for the z distance for supports when printing in CF Nylon?
Generally a single layer, or 0.1-0.2mm -- 0.1mm can be harder to remove, but has better surfaces than 0.2mm.
thank you :)
How does 3DXTech's FibreX GF PA (Glass Filled) compare to their with CF PA6, and have you used their PC+CF filament? Interested in a strength comparison.
GFPA is a bit weaker than CFPA6, but doesn't conduct electricity, thus an advantage.... apparently it doesn't wear the nozzles as fast, either! Their CFPC is excellent as well, we've got some videos coming...
HEY PLEASE DO A MARKFORGE VS VISION MINER VIDEO MOSTLY ON PRICE TO PERFORMANCE RATIO
Hey
Have you testes Htn FROm essentium without The CF? Is a heated chamber a must?
Should be doing this soon, and pretty much yes -- Nylon loves to warp, so on larger parts, a heated chamber makes all the difference.
Are there any hazards with the handling of the parts or filament, i.e. carbon fiber filaments sticking into the skin or getting airborne and breathing it in?
generally no, as they're embedded in the polymer. Is it the best material for a handgrip? Maybe not, but just like injection molded plastics, with a smooth/polish, it's generally not an issue.
Will this work in the k1 max? Cause that’s the next printer I was thinking of getting
how is this printer for making a large volume of a very simple print such as a 1 inch cylinder plug ? I had someone on facebook make a sample using an Ender 3 and the plug came out great. I need a printer that will be capable of 750-1000 plugs of this size per month for a supply agreement. would there be a lot of maintenance for this volume of 1000 units of this size /month ??
I need to print a custom eBike battery case for my newest build but, I have to find a decent 3d printer and soft to design it!.........any suggestions! Loved this video!👊🏾😡
Many of our filaments are great for electronics enclosures, for sure! Check out the site :) www.visionminer.com/printers
fusion 360 for design is great. cheap, fairly intuitive design, and great support
So you said CF nylon takes on moisture, does it still take on moisture after its printed?
Tldr: keep parts dry after print? I have printed a fair bit of nylon cf15 blend (basf paht cf15) , and to my horror it gets super soft after sitting in a cold moist basement for a week or so. Super stiff when it comes out of printer, so must be absorbing water post print and the nylon seems to become ductile, comparable to lead in response to forces. Anyone else noticed this? There's a recent article on fdm cf nylon which seems to confirm dramatic mechanical property effects of moisture post print, but it's pay to read beyond abstract.
Thin walls? So, yes, nylon will absorb moisture after printing and become more ductile --- however, the moisture DURING printing is a different effect -- the bubbles and steam produced during each extrusion line creates gaps and holes, which have a more dramatic effect on mechanical properties, as opposed to after the printing occurs.
I've never heard of it before, BUT, will DEFINITELY be looking into it!!!!
This stuff is INSANE: visionminer.com/products/htn-cf25
@@VisionMiner THANKS!!!! Im checking it out now!!!!
How does it stand up to repeated abrasive/friction/Is it hard to sand down?
Is there a particular brand anyone reccomends? We currently have Protopasta. Very informative video, keep up the great work.
We have excellent results with (and also sell) the 3DXTech brand -- we carry the HTN+CF (PPA) and regular PA6+CF, great stuff! Mention youtube and we'll hook you up :)
@@VisionMiner will do! Appreciate the reply. Thanks a bunch. If you ship to Canada I will most definitely try some . We're in the testing filament stage for all of our printers 😂😎
I'm kain of late ' but the acetone supports ...where i can find info about this topics ?
What will be a good material for a welding hood? Parts get hot for seeing the Arc for so long and the welding hood gets alot of abuse like heat hits metal corners. Falls put of the working table ect. Let me know what yall think. Thanks
CF-ULTEM is our go-to for welding fixtures :)
has anyone printed with this stuff? i would love to see your results!!!
A couple of questions then: 1) WHat would be a good 3d printer to printer using Carbon Fiber Nylon, a 3d printer that costs, say, under $750 US? 2) I am in northern Canada. I have a small farm. I'd love to be able to printer strong parts that are normally made of metal, but instead made of carbon fiber. I don't need parts for machinery, but rather certain kinds of brackets that I mount on t-posts. The brackets I'd print are used to screw 2x4 boards to. 3) How will this carbon fiber material perform in extreme temperatures such as -40 F in winter and direct sunlight (UV radiation) all summer long? Will it dry and crack soon, or only after 10 years or so or almost never? 4) Is 3d printing of carbon fiber very expensive after you have the printer? In other words, is the carbon fiber filament very expensive to buy? Please do advise!
Not much out there to recommend for that price, but anything can run it with upgrades -- really, though, you want something with a HEATED chamber. Stay tuned and we'll have some really cool options of new printers coming very soon :)
That's a pretty big statement printing brake levers
do you have to keep the printed part dry due to the hydroscopic nature, or is that only before you print the part? Thanks in advance for any answers!
Only before you print -- when it melts, you don't want the moisture expanding into steam bubbles, but once it's printed, it becomes more ductile
A young Jerry Seinfeld trying to sell me CF Nylon filament. Okay...
lol i thought the same exact thing
and what is the deal with airline filament?
@@knifeyonline LOL Merry Christmas!
Airline Filament?
Rob gets that all the time, lol!! He is, in fact, originally from Seattle, so it almost makes sense... 😂😋
What size nozzle do you recommend for this material? Would a .3 or .35 clog too easily?
0.4mm or larger is best --- it's not that you CANT use it in a 0.2mm nozzle, it's just that it will suffer from clogs more often. We've never had a problem with 0.4mm though :)
Is there a big difference in stiffness immediately after printing and after acclimatisation in a humid environment, or even immersed in water?
Absolutely -- super dry parts are more stiff, but when it's re-absorbed it's natural moisture content, it's got more ductility and impact resistance.
What is the temperature resistance of carbon - nylon product?
talking about physic and chemical properties, What's better between the carbon fiber nylon and a carbon fiber net covered Pla piece?
If it's covered in carbon fiber, then you'll have to determine that based on the RESIN used for the carbon fiber -- the carbon will be relatively inert to everything, but then you're adding the resin to the outside, and there are many kinds of resin :)
@@VisionMiner thanks
Hi. Are sell any hardware for the AON printer?
How do parts made with this material compare to an actual aluminum part strength wise?
Thanks
Aluminum wins, but the new HTNCF25 gets very close on overall strength: visionminer.com/products/htn-cf25
Could you make a video about you Carbon fiber polycarbonate and CF PC+ABS ?
We don't usually use those materials much, but we'll see what we can do!
@@VisionMiner I would be interested as well.
What are the UV and weather resistance properties?
Nylon 12 has better outdoor performance for UV (video coming in January), but Nylon6 still does pretty well. It will break down over the years and become more brittle, but will still last quite awhile.
Do we have 3d printed carbon fiber nylon bicycles around?
Seeing the new Atlas 46 speed square and pencil holder lead me to this video. The question I have is this, are there better alternatives to a design like theirs, or is this material the best for the roll? Complete noob to 3D printing and the materials they use.
Could you be more specific to which design you're referring to?
@@VisionMiner Yes, of course. Atlas 46 is a company that makes things to hold your tools, like quality tool belts, and they are now marketing a small pencil/speed square holder. They say it's made out of carbon fiber reinforced 3D printed material. I was just curious about their choice of print material. I can only assume they know what they're doing but I also assume you would know more about 3D printing than a canvas focused tool belt company.
Would this be good for rc parts. A arms bumpers and so on?
Absolutely! We've printed FPV drone parts, too, definitely a great material for that.
Use application Exterior Car custom parts(wide body est..) PA12CF15 good enogh? or would you save up a bit and get less than 15%cf?
Honestly ABS may be a better go-to material for body panels, but CF Nylon PA6 Gen3 would be my first choice :)
everyone mentions having an enclosure will help but nobody says at what temp to set the enclosure at? Anyone know of a recommended Temp Range?
How resistant is it to UV light? Can it be set outside in broad sunlight and not degrade over time?
It's better than regular nylon (think zip ties) --- mainly due to the fact that the carbon fiber is an excellent absorber of UV, thus protecting the Nylon itself.
Those parts look amazing. Im famaliar with 3 axis stuff and flatbed printing but have yet to see a 3d printer in action. What is an entry level machine that can print this material?
ender 3
upgraded extruder/hardened nozzle/firmware upgrade to print higher than the stock 260 max temp
@@aforceinministry6677 I have this exact same setup and after trying dozens of configurations I still can’t get large prints to have good layer adhesion. It’s so easy to break and you can peel it. Any ideas?
I've found that parts go floppy after you flex them a few times. Is this normal? Perhaps the fibres lose their bond to the matrix? Before flexing, they feel about the same stiffness as PLA. I printed exact same control rod in different materials to compare them.
PS. using e-Sun CF-nylon (not their new CF-HTnylon which I can't find for sale yet.
They more than likely use milled carbon, but I'm not sure. That's definitely a cheaper brand, likely not engineering grade. However, when you bend things and they lose rigidity... yeah, this is normal, with most materials. You're actually messing with the structure on it. some materials, like Polypropylene, can be flexed over and over without losing shape, but nylon is not one of those materials and will take memory of where you flex it.
@@VisionMinerI mean the same part (square rod in my example) in PLA, if bent the same amount, would just spring back a million times without losing integrity at all. I realise it's hard to compare properly as I'm just bending them in my hands...but the characteristics felt weird from what I coudld feel. I'm keen to keep experimenting and learn more.
What is the best filament for a great surface finish? Something like a 63 surface finish you would get when machining a part?
Generally to achieve that smooth of a finish, you'll need to post-process the parts in some way, unless you print at a super-low layer height -- vapor smoothing, or coating in epoxy-like substances generally works :)
@@VisionMiner Thank you for the information. Could you recommend a 12" X 12" or larger 3D printer with a heated chamber that wouldn't bust the bank? Thank you for your time. Donald
What would be the downside of the bed having only 110*C? Thanks :)
I am looking to build a vehicle??? What do I need to get started?
Can it be drilled ? ...and make a clean hole ?
Can I print CF Nylon with a max bed temp of 100C and nano polymer?
Yep! :)
"It looks cool" truly the only reason to buy anything
Functionality definitely plays a part :) But definitely needs to look cool! :D
You mentioned that it can be printed with soluble supports like PVA or using nylon CF itself. I was under the impression that it only adhered to itself is this not true? Ive had plenty trouble using soluble supports with it so gave up and stuck with the nylonCF but it is super hard to remove most of the time. If anyone has advice on settings or materials please let me know.
What printer and slicer are you using?
Tyler Wright Raise3D pro 2 plus with ideamaker
Not sure who told you that, but it's definitely inaccurate. Our favorite soluble for CF Nylon is Aquasys 120, and Aquatek also works great!
They call me the “Bandit”. Lol
I use CarbonX PLA+CF for drone parts. It looks and prints good but its cracking with a little bend. What other filament would be better for drone parts? PC, PP, Nylon? Will it make any difference if I change the filament type or plastic is just not so good for drone parts?
Well, that's pretty much PLA for you.... we have lots of people using Nylon and CF Nylon for drone parts, working great! We also had a custom drone builder making drones for special sensors and whatnot out in Texas, and the heat would eventually break down the CF Nylon, so he switched to CF-ULTEM and CFPEEK to make the parts, and they were fantastic!
@@VisionMiner I should try nylon first to see if its okay for me. Thanks for reply. Great channel by the way. Good luck.
Yeah I know, this may seem like a stupid question. Would we be able to make a bullet proof shirt and pants out of this, or more like armour? Just wondering how strong this stuff really is. Would it be good to make something like a car stand to lift cars or very heavy objects? Thinking of making a workshop portable table, and wondering what parts I can make for this for to hold up a few hundred pounds/KG.
Just curious what the capabilities are.
Capabilities will always depend on geometry, and then the question is, "is this the right material?". Sure, it could be bullet proof, but to what degree and at what thickness? Butter is bulletproof when you make it 2ft thick (they did it on demolition ranch). Is nylon with carbon fiber strands going to be bulletproof at 1cm thick? Highly doubtful, hahaha. Car stands, yes, you could probably make some, but at that weight, it wouldn't be more economical than using steel. Now, in many settings, it's a great replacement for aluminum -- especially things like brackets, molds, workholding, jigs, fixtures, etc. Keep the brain going, there are a ton of things that can be done... :)
@@VisionMiner Thank you so much for that. That helps a lot and does give me ideas.
What if you dunked it into the resin used in conventional carbon fibre? Perhaps with lots of tiny holes built in in the printing process?
Depending on the resin properties, it would definitely be cool! Might lose some dimensional accuracy (depending how thick the coating is) --- but we've actually printed specifically with holes throughout the entire part (lower extrusion width/etc) so you could fully impregnate it with resin and have a pretty gnarly part...
@@VisionMiner that sounds really cool. Might be good for small motorcycle and mountainbike parts. Winglets, crash protectors.
Anyone used this for cosplay helmets? Mandalorian? I know it’s expensive, but I spent 4 days printing my helmet and I’m about to spend another many days sanding and painting and it’s already got a crack. I haven’t dropped it or banged it into anything. Just a crack along one layer near the visor. I want something stronger for the helmet. Thoughts?
PCTG all day long -- BETTER z-axis adhesion than XY (it's isotropic -- super strong) and it prints as easily as PLA! visionminer.com/materials#pctg -- we have it in clear and black, it can be sanded, painted, and.... yeah, that's definitely #1!
Can CF nylon can be used at parameters with bed temp 60 Deg., Extruder temp 200 Deg...???
Depending on the blend, you need at least 250c on the nozzle, and 90+ on the bed helps a lot!
I bought a Creality CR 10 three years ago and removed the cooling fan so I could print Nylon - X from Matter hackers. I only print engine parts on account of the cost of machining. My only concern is the price of Nylon - X, and is there any other alternative like; If I buy in bulk? I like the 20% nylon you were talking about and would like to get some for a collective pitch rotor design I'm working on. And do you know of any alternative to Iron PLA, like is there any Iron nylon blend that I can use for 3D Printing electric motor stater core's? I need some kind of Iron impregnated filament that can operate at a higher heat rang then Iron PLA, they call it; Proto - Pasts, it's made by; PROTOPLANT. The 3D printed electric motors stater cores are printed out of Iron PLA to help with electrical conductivity because of it's faro magnetic propertys, it's just that PLA can't take the heat under load, and these are brushless motors, so; they need to be able to run for long periods of time. So; do you know of any high temp Iron composite other then "proto - pasta PLA?
Try Filamatrix. Its a little less money, much better product.
@@MichaelJHathaway OK, but; how does it stack up to: Matter Hackers Pro Series Nylon carbon composite at $224.00 for 2.2kg, and Filamatrix price for Nylon Kevlar is $237.00 for 2.2kg, So; are you saying; Filamatrix is a stronger product for the money? If so; maybe I aughta get some?
The HTN CF25 would work fantastic -- we have it on the store now: visionminer.com/products/htn-cf25
A tad more expensive, but insanely capable. HTN CF from 3DXTech might be enough as well, it resists temps up to 195c!
i have a flash forge inventor 1 3d printer, i would like to know if your filament will work on it?
I think this will, but you'll want to upgrade to an all-metal hotend :)
@@VisionMiner ok thanks
What was the stuff called that was the bike brake handles? The 25% blend and do u sell it?
HTNCF25, we finally have it in stock! visionminer.com/products/htn-cf25
@@VisionMiner Thank you and I can't wait to try this out.
For this video, are you talking about CF-PA6 or PA12?
CFPA6 -- we finally have several blends available now, and videos all coming soon --
CFPA6
CFPA12
CFHTN
HTNCF25
GFPA6
It's getting crazy with the nylons up in here....
@@VisionMiner can we have some data sheet on those filaments. I’m also curious if we will be able to print CF-PA12 on Ender, PA12 don’t suck moisture as much as PA6, but seem harder to print.