I Cammed My FOXBODY & Fixed The Bucking, Surging & Stalling Drivability Issues With These Easy Steps
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- I installed the @Compcams1976 XE266HR camshaft in my 1992 Ford Fox Body Mustang 5.0 302 LX Notchback. It has also been dyno tuned by @tecmotiondyno "High lift" camshafts are notorious for producing little to no vacuum at low RPM which is where most cammed engines seem to have their drivability issues. My Foxbody suffers from sporadic low RPM drivability issues i.e. bucking, surging, & stalling. In this video I show you how to make some very simple check and changes to fix the drivability issues you may be experiencing with your cammed engine.
💥If you like this video, you might also enjoy some of my other Foxbody Mustang related Content:
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📽 FOXBODY Mustang 5.0 IDLE ISSUES: • FOXBODY Mustang 5.0 ID...
📽 Foxbody Burnouts & LOUD Exhaust: • Fox Body 5.0 Mustang E...
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📽 Top 10 Reasons to buy a Foxbody NOW!: • Top 10 Reasons to Buy ...
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*Please attempt any and all modifications and automotive endeavours discussed on this channel at your own risk* - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I solved the issue after doing a comp e cam + by going carburetor.
Love this this 5.0 content from a fellow Canuck. Really helpful video. I run an Anderson N-41 in my coupe with no issues. Lots of power. It isn't a super high lift cam. Before buying my cam, I used David Izard's formulas, and they pointed me to 110 lobe separation and durations very close to the N-41. Thats why I picked it. Most cams have 112 or higher.
N-41 Specs:
Duration at .050 - In:222 / Ex:230
Gross valve lift w/ 1.6 - In:.512 / Ex:.512
Lobe Separation 110
Thx buddy and thanks for sharing your experience for others to see 👊👊
@@KASLCustoms Thank you for this awesome channel.
Awe thank you my friend!
It always impresses me how clean all your cars are. Everything in its place
Haha thank you so much!
Great information as always brother!
Thanks so much buddy!
way to go Gary🦊 great feeling when things get resolved
Thx Sally! So true 👍
The sheer joy 👌🏼😁
Hahahaha cammed life
Great content! Love your fox!
Thanks bud!
That's awesome! Wow!
Thanks buddy!
Way to go Bud! Glad you’ve finally got your cam issues sorted! 🦊
Thanks so much buddy!
Such a nice car. And sounds awesome
Thx buddy!
Best foxbody channel on CZcams. A lot of great info you're very knowledgeable!! Make more 😎
Thanks buddy!!!
Another good thing to check on the tps when your setiting it at idle, is to manually open the throttle while watching the voltage on your meter. Open it slowly and quickly taking note of any inconsistenties in the smooth increase or decrease in voltage. Any jumps or "dead spots" could indicate a faulty tps. An oscilloscope would be the best tool for monitoring/testing it, but not many people have access to one. Another well thought out video bud.
Thank buddy! Always appreciate your input 👍
@@KASLCustoms no worries bud
another few item to check for "intermittent issues" is the "salt and pepper shakers" harness connections can get corroded, loose etc and the ECU capacitors, look them over for leaking or bulging capacitors, Glad your car is running well! she sounds good too!
Well said my friend! Thank you!!
Great info as always
Thx pal!
@KASL Customs my new issue is rpms hang if I rev the motor. It doesn't drop back down to an idle right away.
Interesting 🤔
I don't know about your car, but when mine's been running for a while , that's when it does the goofy stuff. I was always told that the Fords run so much better when they're cold than when they're nice and warm🤷
Interesting, mine isn’t temp dependent at all. It’s has/had a mind of its own 🤪
You are a natural in front of the camera, Gary! Great video as always bud. Only thing I'm curious aboot (Canadian accent) is why you didn't have to disconnect the battery? Process sounds like a base idle reset. Anyway, the only way to know For Sure if it's fixed is to pull into a Cars and Coffee haha!
Hahahaha thanks so much buddy! Yeah I know what you mean. Mathew never referred to his instructions as a “based idle reset,” nor did he mention anything aboot disconnecting the battery so I’m not sure 🤷♂️
I may have to do the tps trick too. My stock hatchback surges and idles like crap on every start. I have timed it and did full tune-ups. I hope this will help me get my car running like the glory days.
Keep me posted buddy!
I did the baseline idle reset. That works great.
Nice!
ive got a f cam and aluminum heads on mine and still daily it dont need too or want too but i like too lol theres always something with these cars that need reset or just adjusted from time to time keep rocking sir well see ya one of these days here in the lower 48
Hell yeah buddy 👊👊👊
New Sub.
Liking what I been seeing Sir.
👊🏽
One thing (along with the IAC cleaning/TPS base voltage setting)
I had and i do know stock cammed cars do suffer this , my stocker speed density car that also was one did respond and they actually all do prefer a higher base idle and always set this wirh AC on l, also more fuel pressure even for stocker EEC5 system overall respond positively as well to the increase in FP /base idle (W/AC on specifically) beeeutiful car my friend. 👊🏽
Thanks so much buddy!
Pro-cess…definitely a Canuk aye?
Probably has some Al-loo-min-ee-um on that throttle body as well..lol
Know the feeling Oh too well! So frustrating! Just watching you drive, trying to recreate the stumble gave me anxiety.
My freshly rebuilt, with lump stick is crammed into my Monster Miata by Cardiac.
Just put it back on the road this past summer and I'm being haunted by a stumble that always comes at the worst possible time.
LOL the struggle is real my friend 😂
Nice work!! I still haven't solved mine on my 94, I just raised the idle just a tad bit and it stopped doing it, I'll try that out tho!! Thanks for the info Gary 🤙💯👍
Thx buddy! Hope this can help you too 👊
Sorry but the SN95 TPS can’t be adjusted. One of the few things that’s different from a fox body and SN95. I’m going thru the same issue right now on my 94 Cobra.
@@kingmathis803 oh ok thanks for letting me know!!
I have a custom cam and have been running with the IAC unplugged for months cause I am inconstant fear of looking like a tool idling at 2500rpm at a stop light… I should recheck it but the new iac didn’t help last time I checked. Sometimes it will seem fixed but after a few minutes of running on the highway, it comes back. Car feels like it had cruise control and just sits in the higher rpm’s when IAC is plugged back in.
hmmm thats odd...?
Damn good tip Brother! Excellent video on a simple solution!!💯👊🏾
Funny some people don’t think that TPS is relevant! But in reality it most certainly is relevant as you’ve proven! 💯
Thx so much pal!
Always remember: the heads are the limiting factor, not simply the cam. Without addressing the heads on a 5.0L, results from a cam will be very disappointing.
On an SEFI motor, the TB and MAF are also factors that will affect cam results.
What happens if I don’t know the cam or heads?
@@itsmetiqui1136 There are casting marks on the heads. Unfortunately, determining the cam is harder.
More importantly is that the wide open throttle TPS never go above 4.8v. 5+v drives an A9L/P nuts.
The Ford computer is self compensating for .6 to 1.1 v at idle.
Nice job bud, sometimes it's a small adjustment that makes the biggest difference.
Thanks sir! Yes, I 100% agree
4:32
Something I saw on Brew2L’s channel was to probe the green and black wires, and not ground to the engine or body. You will get a reading that’s quite a bit different if you do.
Of course I was skeptical.
But I tried it both ways, and sure enough, it was a good bit higher.
Also, if you set it at say .99, and it jumps over 5v at WOT, the computer defaults to decel timing. On his car, it was like 35°. It blew the head gasket with a quickness. I believe he said it was because his car is boosted, but not as much of an issue with naturally aspirated cars. That was my understanding anyway.
Just a little tip for anyone still fighting a surge.
Yep but the only time the tps will do that is if there's something wrong with the tps itself or if the throttle magically goes past it normal operating range lol
@@nunya2814
Not necessarily.
I’m pretty sure he has a good grasp on all that, and it happened to him.
It can happen.
And does happen.
This was just a heads up for folks.
@@dstdrummer these TPS are designed not to go above 5v, if they do, there is something wrong with it. You'll find if you re watch brew2ls vid, he even says there was a fault in it and replaced it. It's the way the system is designed and how the parts are engineered to work together. Most of the sensors in these eeciv systems are 5v reference or pull down circuits. Bad things happen when these systems aren't happy, why do you think so many fox owners have problems diagnosing their issues? Because most don't understand them to begin with.
Thanks for sharing bud!
This also worked on my sons 93 GT it was stalling/ bucking at low rpms and made you look foolish trying to rev it so it wouldn’t stall as you you drove slowly through parking lots. Then after adjusting that TPS i don’t recall it bucking or stalling anymore.
Right on!!!
Valuable video buddy,
Do you know the foxbody has sun visor 😂
Thx buddy! Lol yeah it’s true but I sit pretty high in the car so with the visor down it can be hard to see much of anything 😂
CANADIAN SUPERMAN APPROVES
👊👊👊
I can not say this enough. If you cam an AOD car, change out the oem torque converter for a higher stall. If you do not, you will have surging issues at idle. I didn't listen to this good advice and now I have to go back and change mine.
Now for the base idle reset and TPS adjustment dance, as I like to describe it. It literally took me several weeks of tinkering to find my cars optimal setting. I got to where I would just keep the tools I needed for it in the car, and I got to where I was pretty quick at it. One piece of advice remember to flush the stored information out of the computer and make it relearn. It is best to disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes. Also, I have seen the optimal TPS voltage setting vary substantially from car to car. I have seen some cars run really well set over 1 volt. It just depends on your setup and how rich or lean your car likes to run.
Good info thanks for sharing 👍
@charles what torque converter is suggested, I have an AODE with an Ecam
@@dvinpeace This is one of those subjects where you can get way down in the weeds quickly when discussing it. The short answer is it depends on what your goals are and how you use your car, whether it is a daily driver, just a weekend cruiser, or you take it to the dragstrip. Also it depends on your setup, do you have a power adder like a blower or nitrous? So I am going to answer this question from my perspective of a mildly modified weekend cruiser, that occasionally sees some spirited driving but does not go to the drag strip. From my research you just need to bump the stall speed up by about 200-500 rpm over stock to alleviate the surging issue at idle. I am looking at the TCI Saturday Night Special Torque Converter. The reviews I have read seem to be very positive and it seems to be one of a very few torque converters I can find that bumps the stall speed up just a little bit vs bumping it by like almost 1000rpm. If you are just worried about drag racing your car you would want one with a lot higher stall speed, but that is not how I use my car. To be upfront, I have never used a TCI product before, so all I can go by at this point is just my research, so I am not making any promises on TCI products. They seem to have good reviews though.
@@cvjfine Thank you Yes! Yes my use is same as yours. Mainly weekends. Maybe drag strip once or twice a year just because... its has a full exhaust 333 stroker with an E cam and 373 gears I just added, which made a world of a difference... I'm looking at a local shop now for custom converter. Then ill compare prices and go from there...
I had a stock 89 2.3 ran super good, never had issues, till the belt busted. Mechanics said I need a new engine because no compression so they put a 7kmile engine from Jensen engines now it bucks and stalls at stop signs. Also barely pressing the gas makes it wonky. And take three key turns and pushing the pedal to start it on 3rd time. I hear a rattle when the engine is on and park is pushed more foward, sounds like hollow spinning or tapping. When going into reverse I also get idle super low or shut off.
What's up @KASLCustoms? Under your guidence I purcheased the Comp Cams XE 264HR fun stick for my 306 build, along with Pro Maxx 180cc heads, Keith Black pistons and an "OLD SCHOOL" tubular Lightning intake (I can't believe I found one!). My question is, I'm using an MSD Street Fire Distributor for the build and it comes with a steel gear. I've read where I should switch to a melonized gear for my new stick. Have you crossed this bridge on your LX? As always, love your content. Danny F rom Kentucky
Hey buddy! That sounds like an amazing parts list and will make one heck of a power plant. As for the dizzy gear, I have never researched this item and/or the pros/cons surrounding it. Truthfully, I don't even mess around with swapping out the hem dizzy either. Sorry about that, I wish I had more info for you. Thanks so much for all the kind words and support my friend!
Hi, good information. Thank you. Are you using SCT chip and mass airflow sensor? Or?
Thank you. I have a Pro M mass air and a quarter horse chip with a custom tune
Any update on this? I have a similar unpredictability issue and was wondering if you put some time on this “fix”/“adjustment” and if so with what results? Thanks!
So far everything has been great 👍
My Trickflow stage 2 does not like to be below 1700, no matter the speed. It bucks.
Could be a lean cruise condition
My 88 Notch is tuned with a Moates Quarter Horse and has the Summit E303 cam. The car bucks bad at low speeds. Do you think I could adjust the TPS with the engine tuned?
Yes you most definitely can. Mine has a 1/4 horse too
If you were going to stick with the stock air filtration system, what filter would you use ?
K&N 👍
I have an issue with my cammed 306… it will idle perfect from a cold start, and just sit and idle perfectly, but once it is driven around and warmed up… it wants to surge and die if you don’t keep your foot in it when coming to a stoplight or stop sign
Hmmmm, interesting. I know I’m staying the obvious but definitely seems to be heat related
Do the baseline idle reset.
@@KASLCustoms I just replaced the temperature sensor… not sure if that was the problem yet, but I have never replaced it before, it’s the original one from 1990… had this same problem before the stock motor was replaced
Hi, exactly same situation here, I believe it has to do with a open loop / closed loop situation..meaning, car runs on a pre-set setting when cold, and doesn’t listen to the input from sensors..But, imagine there is a vacuum leak, (possibly) soon as car warms up, computer starts “listening”to sensor..so at that point, computer gets “confused” by the potential vacuum leak, since there’s a mismatch in fuel-mixure values. And computer over-compensates..leading to the up and down idle/swings
Well said bud
My 1991 Mustang GT has a misfire sometimes. Some days I can drive it and its perfect and the next day it will have a misfire under load. I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, distributer and cap, coil, and mass air flow sensor. What can I check next?
What heads/plugs are you running and what are they gapped at?
.99 volts I would say is too high, if you open the throttle and ease it off lightly the voltage may end up over 1 volt. Chris Richards of Pro-M EFI in his video, says the stock computer worked best when the TPS was set at .90v or less but no higher than .95v.
Interesting, thanks for sharing the info sir 👍
This topic is one of the most debated of all for Fox Body 😂 many people say it’s not a super critical setting and I’ve had some cars that weren’t BUT I had one that ran noticeably best at .89-.94
Lol yeah it’s one of those weird deals 🤷♂️
No worries brother. One more thing, is the Aeromotive stealth 340 fuel pump too much for my setup? I am gonna run Aeromotive fuel rails and 24lb injectors too. Love the shitbox fox project. Videos with you 2 guys are the tits.
Thx dude!!! No I don’t think so. Fuel pumps are one of those things where they only pump what they need. That said, make sure you run a larger power wire for that big pump. Look up Tecmotion on CZcams - he has a video on how to do this 👍
Hello. I really need some help. I did the procedure and my car stalls after unplug the IAC. So I turned the TB screw to the point where the car started and hold idle 700rpm. LMR has the step by step instruction for these on their website.
Now the car started OK after I unplugged the battery for 20min and plugged it back also the IAC, and it run different, different then ever (14years) before. I drove it and first it was bucking one time but then it drove OK. It had no idle issues anymore and it didn't stall. BUT! Next day I started the car when it was cold. And now it has idle issues when cold. I have to give some more throttle by pushing the pedal to get it to temperature an then it runs OK. But cold it's like it was before the IAC end Ecu idle relearn procedure like in this video. Also I noticed that the exhaust is damn hot. I think it's running lean. Very hot exhaust temperature. It melts the underbody protection till its smoking.
So what is now to do? Timing is at 14. TPS 0.96v
Compression is also OK.
I live in germany and the car run fuel which is 95 octane.
I thought I found the problem but unfortunately not. I am really going crazy. Car has a repaired A9L, 303 cams and GT40 heads. The complete exhaust is stock.
Need help! Nobody here can help and I try to solve the problem for over 10 years now. I won't give up the car.
Wow that’s odd. So did the car run better before the reset?
Hey buddy. I’m not sure why your reply isn’t showing up here but it did show up in my email. Have you had a chance to check for any potential codes in the car? I’m wondering if you may have a bad O2 sensor or maybe something going on with your IAC (idle air control) sensor. Before throwing more parts at the problem, I would check the car for codes. I have a video on it on my channel with a link to the code reader in the description (if you don’t have one). You also mention you have stock exhaust in the car. I would also possibly look at replacing/removing the cats if they are the original ones. I hope that helps. Keep me posted with your progress 👍
@@KASLCustoms Oh, interesting that my message is not shown here. I have still the original catalytic converters (the full exhaust is stock). But I wouldn't think there's is a problem with the converters because the problem turned now into cold condition and I think that I can't go on with 14/16 degree on timing. It has to much air to fuel ratio. So I try to get down with the timing. o2 sensors have been checked but I have some new (from Bosch) bought for the car.
Next time I try to unplug the IAC cold and see if the car start without pushing the pedal. The IAC is new, the EGR also. Checked some air mass meters because meanwhile I bought thousands of parts for the car to solve the issues with it. Water temp sensor and so on is new. I bought even a second foxbody (which isn't cammed) to get this one run.
I have somewhere the code reader but can't find it for now. I will buy another one. But years ago with the same problem (bucking/surging) I had only a bad TPS when it comes to the code reader. Replaced and I had no codes. Car still had bouncing idle after moving it when it get normal temperature. No vacuum leaks also.
Thank you very much for your time, helping me, I appreciate it very much. I don't know but maybe someone could via whatsapp, check this situation step by step with me together. I could post then videos and so on. I would like even to pay for it.
Man mine shuts off the moment my fans turn on
Killer
Thx bud!
So, that kinda looked like a base idle reset… you weren’t clear in the video if you did the computer relearn after unplugging the IAC and TPS adjustment. Seems like you just went straight to driving the car. Brew2l has some good videos on base idle resets.