ARC'TERYX How to build a V-Thread Anchor on an ice climb
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
- Arc'teryx athlete Roger Strong gives a great demo of how to build a V-Thread anchor, and demonstrates the surprising strength of this efficient rappel system.
Find out more about Roger Strong on his Arc'teryx page:
arcteryx.com/At...
Very good demo. About a week ago, we had to go down a short 45º ice slope in the Alps. In our path we noticed that someone did a V-thread in the ice - but we ignored it. Then a bit further down one of the team lost traction and almost took all of us down with him. In the end we had to use that same V-thread plus an ice screw to get the team secured. It would had been a good fall down the sloped ice (no danger of death). Lesson: Do not ignore the signals and always play safe.
if ice fractures horizontally then why are you not making your abalakovs holes vertically to each other?
that makes sense!
my guess is that puts tension strictly on the bridging piece of ice where as the horizontal gets a frictional force in the 90 degree bend coming out of the ice
maturtlelaza that makes sense but I saw in a video how Elizabeth Revol did it the v thread vertically
@@samk7717 I think a Vertical 'V' Thread is called an 'A' Thread
very useful video,checking how strong is the ice hole for me
@cbcbd Exactly, you are correct, static load means a load on the binner/slings. The load is much harder compared to a dinamic load in a fall.
I've always found that WI is *much* 'harder' and more textured so it's harder to quickly make a v-thread.
Alpine ice tends to be more aerated and softer so screws drive in more quickly. Admittedly, it takes more judgement.
@marchanselman I know what you are saying but what I think he is saying is that the system he is tied into is static - sling/biner - unlike loading it while tied into a climbing rope.
I think you are confusing the terms static and dynamic.
wow!
Im sure if he thought it was going to brake he would have left that test out . Its not the 1st time hes made V threads its safe to say .
fair enough
Inches please! 😂😂
250lbs falling 10" ft strait down lot more force then two weekend warriors tired from walking up hill 200 yards hill come .
That is an anchor rappel, not meant for lead fall. The average maximale load of a rappel is 700 pounds for an 180 pounds average person