Taurus 689VR Revolver (Part 3): Wet Sanding Existing Scratches Out.
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- This video shows how i wet sand this revolvers to remove significant scratches and achieve a bright clear finish. This revolver has a pretty deep gouge on the left side that I wasn't able to completely remove during this video shoot, but it was greatly improved. I may go back at some time with a more aggressive approach later.
Thank you for watching...
Mr. Big Swole 58, I continuously find myself going back to your videos at the start of every new revolver project. You have become our authority regarding restoring stainless revolvers and wood stocks. Because of your videos, I am able to pick up Smith And Wesson at great prices because of imperfect finishes due to scratching with the knowledge that I can restore them. Thank you for the time it took to inform us all of this process.
Thank you Sir, but no need to thank me. I'm glad you're doing that. I saved $1000's of dollars collecting mine that way. You will too.
Your how to Videos are the best I have seen hands down, Your efforts are greatly appreciated Sir. So many things I have been doing wrong
Thank you Sir.
I wet sand quite a bit in my job as a Luthier. A helpful hint is I use a white artist eraser to wrap my paper around. It gives the surface a uniform finish by supplying even pressure on the surfaces of the metal. You’re right when you say you are not really sanding, you’re really polishing. The paper should be soaked in the water overnight. Good presentation.
Thank you Sir, and thanks for that eraser tip. I usually soak my paper until it no longer floats. You can add a little alcohol to the water to reduce the time it takes the paper to fully saturate if you're needing to save some time. Just returning a tip.
I learned about wet sanding building and painting hot rods. A drop or two of Joy dish washing liquid in the pan of water kept the paper from loading up too.
@@wallyrossow3141 Man, thank you. I always appreciate any new info.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I have two older Ruger Mark ii’s that need some attention due to normal wear. Light scratches. I’m confident after watching your video that I can get them looking nearly new.
Thank you Sir. Good luck on your project. Remember to start with the least aggressive sandpaper as possible to achieve the scratch removal.
I watched Yankee Marshal's vid on polishing stainless steel firearms and he didn't bother sanding his revolver.
His technique may be easier but I like your technique a lot better. You make a great point about if you skip the sanding steps, you will just be polishing up your scratches! 🤣
I like the Yankee Marshall's polishing too. He's usually polishing a new or fairly new gun that's pretty much devoid of scratches anyway, so there's no need to sand those. I've never had to sand any of my new guns before polishing them either. I use this technique on used guns with obvious scratches and handling marks that I want to remove before polishing. Thank for the watching and the kind words.
I am a metal polishing maniac but I have never had the nerve to go at a revolver like this. Thank you for the series. I am motivated with my new knowledge.
Thank you Mr. Spath. As you can see, It''s not difficult or damaging to the gun at all. I made the video because I got so many questions about how I polish my SS guns. And I had some skeptics that questions my response. It's really easy, and more efficient in removing scratches and years of handling wear than just polishing alone.
@@mr2275cur My mod 60 was quite scratched up when I bought it. I followed your process and it is gorgeous now. It was a very enjoyable afternoons work. BTW-I have always used Flitz metal polish. It works well on metal and other materials like plastics. Thanks again!
@@robspath4203 That sounds great. Glad to hear it... Take care.
After watching your videos I took the plunge and gave wet sanding a try. I am very pleased with the results of my first attempt. Thank you for the great tutorial your video really helped.
Thank you and I'm glad to hear that.
Your the BEST, guns look fantastic 👍 Keep up the informative videos. One of the BEST gun channel’s on YT. Thanks for sharing. That’s what’s best about gun owners they don’t mind sharing there knowledge to others. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you Mr. Robbins. I'm far from the best, but I really like sharing and learning from others.
Starting a polishing project on my great grandfather's ruger security six. Had to take it from very bad bluing to a rough steel, now it's just time and effort till she's shiny.
Are you sanding a polishing a blued gun?
@@mr2275cur I'm restoring a terribly blued gun to stainless.
@@noblenumenorean5165 Well, Unless I'm missing a vital piece of information here, that's not possible. What make and model gun do you have? Blued guns a made of carbon steel; not stainless steel. You can remove the blue finish, and even polish the metal to a high luster. But you will need to re-blue, nickel plate or Cerakote it to sufficiently protect it from rusting. Otherwise, it will rust terribly.
@@mr2275cur My 77 security 6 is stainless, it had a very poor cold blue on it, im taking it to mirror.
@@noblenumenorean5165 Gotcha.!!!! 👍👍
Nice work great demo!!! I'm getting ready to restore the finish on my Springfield Armory longslide 1911 now I see exactly how to go forward, thanks!
Great. Let me know how it turns out.
I do the same process on my Smith&Wesson stainless revolvers. For a scratch as deep as the one you have. I’ll start with 420 grit. And work my why up to 2000 or even 2500. Then polish with mothers. I’ve even removed turn rings. Love your videos. Nice collection.
Yes Sir. I've done same starting with 500 grit on my 686-3, and went up to 3000 grit. I really didn't see the need to be that detailed on this gun for the video. i may go back and do it one day, but its not high on my priority list right now. But thanks for sharing that with me. I appreciate you...
I like the S&W finish better so I like to use 400 grit sand paper for major scratches and then finish off with a scotch bright pad and never dull. It gives the gun a nice uniform brushed stainless look instead of the polished look which takes a lot longer to do.
I have a SW with a scratch on that side too. I think it’s from the ejector Rod I got a good deal I Used a little bluing on a tooth pick a couple times then polished it up renaissance wax came out pretty good I know it’s there though.
Another good question Mr. Patrick. I only use 3M brand sandpaper. I've used some other German-made brand in 5000-7000 grit, but I try to stay away from Off-brand sandpaper. Sandpaper isn't so expensive that I'm willing to risk ruining an expensive gun to save a $1 or two on cheap sandpaper. 3M sandpaper is consistent and accurately made; and is flexible and durable for this type work. Please don't use the cheap paper from Harbor Freight.! You'll be sorry
Very educational. you make it look easy
Thank you kind Sir. Trust me, it is very easy.
I had some blemishes on a revolver I had. The gunsmith at LMT LGS told me to use flitz, 0000 steel wool and some fine grit sand paper. I thought he was crazy but I tried it anyway. Now I don’t think twice about working on imperfections on used guns.
There you go Big Country.! It's not difficult tp correct or improve these finishes ourselves, rather than paying a GS big bucks to do the same things. The correct materials is 90% of the process.
Really great video!
Thank you...
your love of revolvers is awesome! @@mr2275cur
Great video, I can’t do it myself because I hate the sound the sandpaper on metal, so I might just pay someone to do it.
LOL... Thank you.
Put headphone on and listen to music or watch a movie
@@PassportLife 🤣
No you are the true black gun Smith God damn I’m scared to do that one taken apart I haven’t got that good yet
Don't be scared Big Bruh. You are more than intelligent enough to do this; and anything else you put your mind to. Thanks for your support. I appreciate ya..!
What grit sandpaper did you start with? You keep changing saying 1000 then you say 1200 which one to start? Can you tell me the order from start to finish please thank you
Big Swoll58 thank you very much for taking the time to create this 4 part sanding/polishing series!
I've refinished a few wood stocks with hand rubbed Tru Oil (I love the stuff), but just today I acquired a stainless S&W 2206TGT that seemed to be used as a truck gun. Thing has scratches all over it! No deep gouges though like your Taurus.
My question: The 2206's have smooth, polished sides. But the top and bottom of the frame and barrel as well as completely around the grip (front and back straps) along with cut-outs on both sides of the barrel, have a flat or bead-blasted surface. How do you attack the scratches on those surfaces, or is it even possible?
Thank you sir!
First let me thank you for the kind words. Attacking the polished area scratches is easy as you stated. But anytime you try to address scratches on beaded or flat finishes, you're going to change that finished area. You will need to decide what type of finish you're looking to have before you start. You can sand them out (or reduce them) to you're satisfaction, and then polish the entire gun. Or opt to have it bead blasted back to the original finish. Those 2nd and 3rd Generation semi's have so much surface area. I polished my 4506 to only slightly above satin to reduce my concerns about future scratches, but still improve the finish. I'm very happy with how it looks.
@@mr2275cur Thank you!👍
@@Capt_Killingfield 👍🏿👍🏿
Definitely a fabulous channel for lovers of stainless pistols! Thank you! At about 13 minutes you mention that you don't use any wet sandpaper of any grit on the face of the cylinder, because of how critical it is to keep the cylinder gap as small as possible. Do you use Mother's polish for that? How do you clean up the burn rings on the chambers when you come back from the range?
Clean good with gun cleaner of choice first. Then Mother's Polish works great to remove the burn rings. Also Birchwood-Casey Lead Removal Cloth.
Can I do this to my smith and wesson 686 plus 4 inch? I accidentally scratched it next to the grips?
Sure you can. Just remember, you cannot just do a spot. You'll need to do the entire gun unless you restore the original finish to the scratched area..
Bro I wish you was my neighbor!!
LOL...!!! We are! Let me know how I can help...
Nice work. I recently picked up a decent shape SW model 27-2 that gotten sprayed over with some sort of ugly grey paint or coating. After many hours of stripping and polishing. It is now in a clean shiny state. Debating if whether to blue it or leave it like that.
Congratulations on the 27-2, and cleaning it up. Sounds like you stripped the blue off with the paint. Re-bluing it will probably be your best bet for long term maintenance. Otherwise, you'll be battling rust and pitting. Let me know what you decide.
Thank you sir !
Have a stainless 5.5 Super Blackhawk that I've had that the previous owner lightly abused. Mechanically sound, but a lot of light scratches. Without disassembling completely, I use Forster polishing roll from Brownells. Kind of a scotchbrite material impregnated with silicon carbide powder. Leaves a rather nice finish and took most of the scratches out. Have used this stuff for years. Brownell's # 319000030- $10.99. Cut into strips or squares of any size. Lasts a good while. Wouldn't be without it.
I'd heard of it, but have never used it. Thanks for sharing your experience with it. I may just buy some and try it now.
Awsome ❤
Been looking for this video from you since I first saw your 686 collection!!! So glad I found it as I'm working up the nerve to go for it myself. Quick question though, the top strap is more of a bead blasted finish to prevent sun glare (which I would like to keep that way if possible), how do you address or avoid this area on yours? Thanks in advance for any suggestions
Good question. I will typically mask it off with painters tape, especially when polishing. This guns top strap was easy to avoid while wet sanding and polishing.
I wanna polish my barrel on my sig but the coating is nitron much harder how do I go about sanding it for polish
I've never done one myself, but there are many videos on the process. They demonstrate how to remove the Nitron coating without sanding by soaking the barrel (with the ends plugged) in distilled vinegar for 3-4 hours. Follow that up with washing / scrubbing it with low abrasive Scotch-brite and dish detergent. Rinse well, dry and polish with your favorite metal polish. Check them out to see if you'd like to try that method.
1. Thanks for the video it's great. 2. I am working on a stainless steel slide I sanded it before hand and it has a nice much improved shine however it doesn't have the mirror finish I want. What do you recommend that I do? Go back and wet sand and then polish some more? Thanks a lot appreciate you.
Thank you. A true "mirror" finish can only be achieved by professional machine polishing with professional grade polishing compounds. But you can achieve a really clear and bright finish using this technique. I have a couple of questions.
1. Was your sanding method wet or dry?
2. What grit papers did you use from start to finish?
Question as well my man , im trying to master this to get it to mirror polish reflective , i got it prertty reflective but it has small micro scratches i used up to 7k gritt , is that something polishing will take out or do i have to just go higher ?
I've not ever gone above 5000 grit on any of my hand polishing. My goals for my guns have been to get a really clear and bright finish; not a true mirror finish.. I think it would be very difficult to achieve a true mirror finish by hand-only polishing. You can try going higher, but I think you'll still find better but similar results. A true mirrored finish will almost certainly require some form of machine polishing.
I am getting ready to start sanding on a much abused S&W model 13-1, got my various grit sandpaper soaking. Do you sand S&W's with the grain of the metal or not? Also, how can I look at the side panels and tell which direction it goes, have not taken the panel off. Your instructional vids are fantastic, keep up the good work!
Thank you for the kind words Mr. Rochelle. There's not need to worry about directional sanding. You're going to removing most of the factory marks anyway. I will typically sand in the direction that is most comfortable and easiest for me. That's usually in the direction where I can make the longest strokes. Good luck with your project.
I have sanding marks on my side plate how do I remove Them? Stopped at 2500 grit.
How bad or visual are these marks? Most if not all should be gone at 2500 grit.
Hello sir. Would you recommend wet sanding a brand new 686 or just using Mother’s polish? If you think wet sanding would be appropriate, which grits would you recommend? By the way, your videos are outstanding!
First, thank you for the kind words. As far as my recommendations; It depends on what type of results you' want. You can achieve a bright polished finish without wet sanding a new 686. It will just take longer, and it may still have some faint grain swirls from factory finishing. Wet sanding with 2000 - 4000 grit will greatly reduce those if you desire a more mirror-like finish.
@@mr2275cur Thank you for the reply, sir. I think I’ll give the wet sanding a try. Take care and stay well.
@@MrMowork32 Will do. You too.
Can u give link where to buy the sandpaper
You can buy it pretty much and hardware or auto parts store up to 3000 grit. I use 3M brand. I recommend NOT using cheaper papers like the Harbor Freight or Norther Tools brands because of there inconsistence grits and hard backings. Grits higher than 3000 can be found using on-line searches.
Hey, looking for advice. I’ve been doing this on my 1911. So I’ve used 1000, 1500, 2000 grit. I’ve managed to get it shining. Problem is it keeps leaving behind a bunch of micro scratches in whatever direction I go in. Can’t get that smooth finish. I’ve even gone down to 400-600 grit and back up to 2000 multiple times. No luck.
I see this question was previously answered. I’ve used the 3m. Thought I kept everything pretty wet.
Try going up to 3000 grit, or even 4000 grit. You may always have some "micro" grain finishes marks at certain angles in bright light.. This will yield you a very clear, smooth and reflective finish, but not a true "mirror" finish.
Is that water or oil on the sand paper?.
The blueing on my taurus g2c has faded and is getting rusty from carrying daily. I want to sand and polish the slide but is it necessary to take off the sights and etc.?
No, it's not necessary. But that part of the slide won't be polished if you don't. However, don't do anything until you verify what the slide is made of before you sand or polish it. If it is rusting, it is probably not Stainless Steel. I'm not very familiar with the G2c, but I believe the blacked or blued slides are steel or a steel alloy. If they are, sanding off the finish will only lead to increased rusting. You may need to send it back to Taurus for recoating or have it CeraKote'd.
Hello Big Swoll. I finally wet sanded and polished my 686-6 Smith and Wesson following your methods and it came out super shiny and beautiful! I only went up to 2500 grit. I was wondering if I keep going up to like say 5000 grit will the gun shine even more?
Yes, mush more. Its not so much more shine, but the finish will get clearer and more reflective. It'll be noticeably more reflective.
@@mr2275cur Hey Big Swoll. Oh ok I see. So how far should I go in grit? 6000? What do you recommend?
@@valentingomez2193 That's strictly up to you. But, you're not going to see that much difference in results between grits as the paper become finer; especially by doing this by hand. The results from 3000 - 5000 grit will be more pronounced than the results you'll see from 5000 - 7000 grit. At some point you're just simply not going to get the gun finish clearer or more reflective by hand. You'll see what I mean.
@@mr2275cur oh I see. I will go up to 5000 for sure and I'm sure after polishing once again I will be set. I see people polishing with drills and machines. Does using drills and stuff like make it shinier? Drills with the cloth wheel attached to them I mean.
@@valentingomez2193 It d doesn't necessarily make them shinier. It just takes the manual labor out of the polishing. Thus you can polish faster and longer without getting tired.
Can i get a matte stainless to a mirror finish with this method? Or by hand no rotary tools
Absolutely. You'll need to wet sand up to 7000 - 10,000 grit prior to final polishing. Tight crevices will be the challenge.
@@mr2275cur gotta learn how to break down my fire arm then dont lose the pieces
@@AllSoWavyReese LOL...! I know what you mean. I bought a magnetic tray to put parts in during disassembly to keep them from "getting lost". Use zip-lock bags for storage until ready to reassemble.
@@mr2275cur fasure imma do that
@@AllSoWavyReese Good luck. It'll turn out great. Just trust the process.
I realize this is an older video but wouldn’t 200 grit then 500,1000,1500 take out the big gouge????
I did a Taurus PT845 semiautomatic slide that was a satin finish slide and I started with 200 grit and worked great with less effort…..
Yes it would. On this gun I decided not to start that aggressively because it wasn't that important to me to get that one scratch completely out. And it would have made a more obvious depression in the large flat area where it is located. It's a lot more inconspicuous now since its a lot more polished that it was.
Have you used any rotary tools of so what kind?
No Sir. I do all of my work by hand.
@@mr2275cur how do you get in hard to reach places ? Crevasses
@@angelovega5199 Good question. Very painstakingly. I'll often use wooden or plastic dowels and paddles, Q-Tips, etc. What ever works best at the time. I just stay away from Dremels and things because you can actually do more damage than good if you're not extremely careful.
@@mr2275cur thank you just subbed
@@angelovega5199 Thank you Mr. Vega.
Hello big swoll, my 629 no dash has a few scratches on the Barrel when i hold it on the right angle. I dont feel the scratches when i go over them. It should be no Problem to get them out? Want to to this on my revolver that it looks great again. Greetings from austria
I hear you man. I only recommend wet sanding if necessary to remove scratches and grain marks. But if you decide to wet sand, use the least aggressive as possible sand paper to remove the scratches before polishing. Good luck.
@@mr2275cur thank you. Iam looking for 1500, 2000 and 3000 sandpaper and after this i polish it with mothers mag. Hope that my 629 looking like New after this. Greetings from austria
@@coregonusfishing It'll look better than new, if you like shiny reflective revolvers. Just remember to use light pressure when sanding and keep you paper wet. it'll turnout beautiful.
Great video series! Question: Can you use oil in place of water? Thank you Big Swoll58!
Yes. I prefer water because it's cheaper, and oil doesn't prevent sandpaper loading as well as water does; and its a lot messier when doing an entire gun. I've used oil for spot polishing and finish restoration. But try oil and see which one you prefer.
@@mr2275cur thank you! I have a spot with just a few scratches on the sideplate of my Smith and Wesson model 66 no dash the rest of the gun is perfect. So I think I'll take your advice and just spot polish it with the 1000 grit and oil and move up in grit number as it progresses or as needed. Great video series!
@@heavydutyreviews1303 Thank you. Pay close attention to S&W finishing lines. They used a multi-direction technique to get their satin look. Take it slow.
Hey Big Swoll58 sorry for the multiple questions but will water get into the internal workings of the firearm if you use 1500 and then 2000 grit with water. Will the water have any kind of detrimental effect on the stainless revolver?
Thank you so much!
@@heavydutyreviews1303 Great questions. The answer to both is YES and NO. Its always a chance that water will get inside the mechanics of the gun during wet sanding. And if it does, it may cause some issues if not removed. Not all stainless guns have all stainless steel parts, so water removal will be paramount to prevent internal rusting. Just remove the side plate and blow it out with compressed air. Then apply a generous amount of lubricating oil to displace any suspected moisture, and blot up the excess with cleaning cloths and q-tips. That should take care of it. WD-40 is a great water displacer, but it's not a lubricant. Use a good lubricant afterwards if you use WD-40 for water displacement.
Very educational! I did my first attempt and ended up with noticeable surfaces scratches. Could you guide me into maybe why? Started with the 1200, 1000, 1500 and with 2000. Thank you!
Yes, help me out. Did you have more scratches when you finished than you had before you started? Did you use wet or dry sanding?
More than when I started and wet sanding.
@@franciscosalazar2247 That's hard to believe. I've never had happen to me. Are you using 3M Dry/Wet sandpaper or equivalent paper; or a cheaper brand.? Some cheaper sandpapers grit classifications are not uniform and will NOT yield desired results. Make sure your paper is thoroughly wetted before you start; and kept wet during the entire sanding process. Frequent wetting is paramount for good results. If you don't keep the paper wet and flushed, it will redeposit scratches on you gun.
I purchased Craftman brand at Lowe’s and 1200 from harbor freight. I attempted it agin today and same thing. Not the results I was looking for. Might just send it off to the pros.
@@franciscosalazar2247 That's an option. But I didn't want to state names, but PLEASE don't use that cheap hard paper from Harbor Freight. 3M, 3M, 3M. None of my guns have have sanding scratches in them.
I love the video. In fact you already know that I'm a sub and like a lot all your videos. But in this one I must say this " waste of time in a garbage Taurus"! I can explain, I love revolvers in fact my EDC for about 25years is a S&W revolver, but Taurus to me never again!!! I spend my hard money in 2 Taurus, both of them I have to sell and lost a lot of money they where pure garbage and the client support is worst I ever seen!!!
Well, I've owned 5 Taurus handguns in my life and have not experienced any major problems with either of them. Taurus handguns are very good ENTRY LEVEL handguns that should not be compared to S&W's, Colts or Rugers. They're less expensive for good reasons; they're lesser quality guns. As for this one, I just bought it to replace my first handgun that I previously sold. I bought it for a low price, and used it to demonstrate my polishing technique. It's a good plinking gun.
Machine marks are the worst. 😊
Yeah, they are hard to totally eliminate too.
I enjoy it,thanks if it wasn't for you I wouldn't have the nerve. God bless
You too Sir...@@georgekasza7295
Lol stay away from the sears.... oh ,ok never mind
I see you got lazy and left the rear sights on 😂
I didn't get lazy. I just don't currently have a punch small enough to remove the sight pin. But thanks for your keen observation...
Lazy ? His pistols are beautiful !
What grit sandpaper did you start with? You keep changing saying 1000 then you say 1200 which one to start? Can you tell me the order from start to finish please thank you