A Successful Recovery? - Building the Raptor Prototype
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2018
- Well, we'll have to wait and see whether this new poly sulfide sealant does the trick for keeping the windows sealed while still allowing them to expand and contract with temperature changes. It's the stuff that many other people use for the same job so here's hoping. Meanwhile Jeff and Devin have the second wing spar lay up underway and Britt stopped by to weld up the door braces that I created last week.
Drilling plastic so you don't crack it (and sheet metal so the drill bit doesn't screw through hole before it makes a round cut):
I have been an aircraft mechanic for 30 years , it still gives me the heeby geebys drilling perspex.
Perhaps on the production aircraft the windows can be placed on the inside of the airframe, where cabin pressurization will help seal them and eliminate the need to drill holes in the windows. A carbon fiber frame can be placed around the inside to clean up the appearance.
Perhaps this has been asked already, but have you considered going with a waterless coolant for the engine? To prevent corrosion over time, being that most planes sit for long periods. Although at only 6 gal of diesel an hour, this plane may be the exception to that rule..
Can't wait to see it fly. I am a little worried about the weight of the plane. Two steps forward, one step back. A prototype is a learning process, hang in there
Hi Peter. Nice update as always. You can buy a non motorized hand drill that I think would've helped with the plexi.
Peter thank you for video blogging this build. I have just recently found your project and spent the last month watching each one, starting with the first one. Once I got all caught up I couldn't wait to sign-up. Glad I beat your cutoff.
Good ol' Kiwi ingenuity!
Yes finishing acrylic by hand is the only way. I've worked with it almost all of my working life so have learned a few tricks. Machining the chamfer is far too risky and will almost always leave a small nick or burr not to mention vastly increasing the possibility of cracking the material. Use a small manually operated hand-drill to save your hands. Treat acrylic (perspex) the same way you would steel (a very fragile steel) - slow revolution speed and feed coupled with a flow of cooling lubricant liquid is the ideal way. You can also use compressed airflow to cool the bit and just a spot of lubricant liquid.
CZcams actually allowing a 511 Tactical ad?
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