Tips For Setting Odd Shaped Stones In A Bezel
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
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In this video, Prof. John Ahr explains how to correctly set odd shaped cabochon stones in a bezel. Knowing the proper procedures for setting different shapes of cabochon stones will prevent unnecessary gaps in bezels.
The secret to success in most operations is in knowing how to initiate the setting process. Generally, pushing at the corners of a stone first will eliminate any possibility of developing puckers or gaps at the corners of the bezel. For stones without corners, begin pushing the bezel at the cardinal or compass points of the stone.
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So incredibly helpful! Thank you for making this video, you explain it so well and in a way that I can understand.
As always good and clear instructions! 😊 Thank you
These are great tips!
Thank you so much for this series!
I am a newbie to jewelry making, and am learning SO much from these!
Hi Joe, Glad that you're enjoying the videos. Be sure to check out the OJA's website at: www.onlinejewelryacademy.com There you'll find the complete video playlist organized by topic.
Thanks for your support! : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy
These videos have been so helpful! You rock & thank you! :)
+Katie Kempinski
Thank you for your kind words Katie. Glad you're enjoying our videos.
Thanks for watching! : )
Really great and valuable info! You were clear and concise with verbal instructions. 👍 It would be nice to see an actual example of setting an odd shaped stone or crystal such as quartz though but it's still good. Thanks so much for sharing! 🙂
tammygurl64 Glad you enjoyed the video. The OJA has a stone setting course on Udemy.com that includes a demonstration of how to set an odd shaped cabochon. You can finds links to discount codes in our video descriptions. 🙂
Thanks Prof. Ahr. :^)
+Rebecca Brooks My pleasure Rebecca. Thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for this video. I was a bit unsure how to proceed to bezel-set an irregular, raw stone. Nice tips, especially how to work with an irregular underside! A note on setting square stones.... I usually file a V shape with my triangle file in each corner, which eliminates wrinkled corners or gaps. I find it looks nicely finished, as long as all the Vs are exactly alike :) Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed the video Karen. You said it. The "Vs" need to be exactly the same.
Thanks for your support! : )
Excellent
+CARISSA GALGANO
Hi Carissa, I take it from your one word comment that this video answered the questions that you had about tricky bezel setting situations.
Thanks for watching! : )
This is so helpful, John; thank you!
I recently received a really lovely oval amethyst that showed up in just such a lozenge-like shape. I would really like to set it with an open back to allow the light through, but I don't know how I would go about securing it, especially since the edges are smooth and not clearly pronounced, and obviously putting something behind it they way you show here wouldn't work.
Any suggestions?
Or should I just bite the bullet and set it like you've shown here and save my open backs for other stones?
Hi Wendy, You could cut a window in the back of the setting to let the light shine through the stone. I suggest that you look for some visual inspiration on Pinterest before you sit down to design your pendant. You might get some ideas about how to modify the design to enhance your stone. If you have any further questions, you can write them in a message to me using the contact section of the OJA website. Good luck with your creative pursuits.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi, first thank you for your prior advice on using bailing wire. Worked perfectly. I have a tear drop stone that I am going to be setting. I had read some advice about filing the bezel down on the end before pushing the bezel. Now I am confused. On the point end do I just push the point only, not the sides immediately next to it? What about filing the point before pushing it and how would I do that? Thank you so much for your time.
Glad to hear that my advice worked for you. When you bezel set any stone that has a corner or a point, the first push against the bezel should be at the point that will come into contact with the corner/point. If you don't set that point first, you will ultimately end up with a gap at the corner/point. Carefully push TO the corner/point (not ONTO). You can begin to start to push on either side of the corner/point. Then push TO the stone at the base. Work in opposition around the stone pushing TO the stone. In the second round of setting you will repeat these steps but pushing ONTO the stone. Some setters might not agree with me. But, if you file the bezel at the tip you're just weakening it. There should be no excess if the height of the bezel was measured correctly. Some setters will saw through the point. But, setting with a split will either leave an open seam at the corner/point or result in an overlap. If you choose to try filing, use a barrette shaped needle file so that you don't scratch the surface below the bezel. Good luck.
Thanks for your support! : )
Thank you again for your quick reply! So just to make sure I have this. Push the end of the point first up to the stone but not onto it. The push the side immediately next to the point up to but not on to the stone, then go to opposite side from point push again up to the stone , then to sides, east west. Second round, back to point push on to stone, followed by side immediately next to point then to opposites . Does that sound right? Fingers crossed, lol. The little engine that could " I think I can, I think I can" lol
OnlineJewelryAcademy again thanks worked perfectly!
I have really been enjoying your videos Online Jewelry Academy! Thank you for all of your knowledge John Ahr. I have watched a lot of what you offer here but still would love to know how to set a double faceted stone. Stones that are the exact same size - rounded and facete on each side. I assume I would just solder a bezel wire to size, solder on a bail and then push down both sides of the bezel to hold the stone but I wonder if this is how it's done normally. Do you have any videos or information on how to set these kinds of stones? Thank you!
Hi Margo, Thanks for the compliments. The OJA does not have any videos in it's playlist where I cover the type of stone setting that you mentioned. But, your description of how you might do it seems in the ballpark. You might consider using a step bezel wire. That way you would only have to push down on one side. You could also frame the stone with a wire and solder prongs that you could push over the stone. Good luck with your projects.
Thanks for your support! : )
Thank you so much for your suggestions. I've never heard of a step bezel wire! that's great!! :)
Hi again John! We had talked earlier about irregular cabochon bottoms. I'm working on a piece for someone who wants the stone's natural feature (a heart!) facing up, which means I've got to build up the base significantly on one side. What would you recommend? Is there some kind of epoxy that's sometimes used?
Hi Karen, Without the benefit of seeing the stone and your design I'm not too sure what to recommend. Your idea of building up the bottom of the stone with epoxy sounds like an approach that would work. You can use 5 minute epoxy from the hardware store. You can create a boundary for the epoxy with masking tape. Good luck! : )
Great videos, John. I've learned a lot from watching your videos.
I've thought about buying either gold leaf or gold foil and cutting section of the foil to set behind some very clear stones for added effect. Have you ever done this and if so, what do you think of the idea? I have some small, very clear sapphires I think k this would work great on. I know you did a video using reticulated silver to back a stone.
Hi Steven, The reticulated silver thing you mentioned is where I used transparent epoxy resin to cover a piece of reticulated silver. But, I could wrinkle up a piece of silver foil and achieve a similar effect by setting a transparent gemstone over it. If you think that your stones would look their best if you set them with some gold behind them, go for it. You can use either gold leaf or foil. Because the foil is a bit thicker, it might be a little easier to handle. Plus, you could Keum Boo the foil to the bottom of your bezel cup. Just be sure that you place the gold between the fold of a piece of tracing paper or parchment paper, use very sharp scissors, and only handle the gold with tweezers. Otherwise, you might end up with little wrinkled wads of gold. I hope that this helps you feel confident to attack your project.
Thanks for your support! : )
Resurrecting this topic: this was done commonly in the Georgian Era with colored foils to enhance the color of gemstones.
Gold or reddish foil behind a ruby, Silver-colored behind citrine, etc
One of the problems is if it tarnished (and because a lot of their foils did tarnish) the effect is destroyed and can make the stone look worse than it would have alone in a bezel :)
So make sure you're using something that will not tarnish :)
I have seen some jewelers who are pleased with using mylar foil. But we don't really know how that will hold up for more than 100 years, etc
As a point of interest, the interiors of silver bezel cups can tarnish over time too. So if you are using clear enough stones that would be a problem, maybe play around with rhodium plating the interior, or using a fine platinum foil that will not tarnish, if you're doing a really precious project you hope to last multiple generations
Thanks
Glad you found the information in the video helpful.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi! I see so many cornered cabochons set with the corner squeezed into a pinched look. It looks bad to me.... like it would collect moisture and dirt. I filed my first corner attempt down, and it looks good, but you say below that it makes it weak to do that. I don't like sawing into it, cuz, I feel like it could catch on clothes. And you say, if the bezel it the right height, it shouldn't look bad. I feel like I'd have to make the bezel too low. Are you saying you never do that? How about if it's a fabricated bezel? Would that be stronger, to allow filing dawn corners?? Thanks!!
Hey Huskyfluffy, If you remove material from the corner of any bezel you weaken the structure slightly. And, in my opinion, it looks bad. That's why I recommend pushing the bezel material to the corners first when you set a stone with angled corners. You can always seek the advice of a seasoned stone setter in your community. Good luck!
Thanks for your support! : )
Professor John! How would I set a heart-shaped stone?
Honestly, I've never set a heart shaped cabochon stone in a bezel setting. But, if I were to try to do it, I would probably start by pushing the metal toward the tip of the heart first. Then, I'd push between the humps of the heart. After that I'd probably go evenly around the entire perimeter of the shape. Let me know how it turns out.
Thanks for your support! : )
Just curious - Does anyone recognize the make / brand of flex shaft hanger in the video...(??). Thanks! -
I bought that hanger about 25 years ago. I'm not really sure where I bought it. But, you should be able to find something similar if you shop online.
Thanks for your support! : )
Dr.Ahr instead of adjusting a bezel with a file wouldn't it be better to dry fit the stone and remove it and turn the bezel upside down on a flat surface with fine grit sand paper and sand it to the right height ? That way your bezel remains true and square with no chance of damage to the stone or collapsing the bezel if the file was to "catch" on the bezel.
Hi Ricky, I'm not a doctor. I'm just a professor. : )
I'm sure that it would be possible to perform the sanding operation that you described. But, if you use a fine cut file you shouldn't have any problem adjusting the height of the bezel. You can also mark the bezel to guide you in your filing/sanding. Good luck with your projects.
Thanks for your support! : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy Pardon me for the mistake professor and thank you for your response.
Good information. I disagree with the use of loose objects underneath a stone. It adds false weight that isn't precious metal and also it allows the stone to move slightly which over time loosens the stone. Anything inside the cup should be of the same metal and soldered to provide a permanent bearing surface that won't loosen with time.
Hi Hijynx, You make a good point about the plastic object under the stone adding "false weight" to the item. But, the plastic will pack down like sand or decay over time like sawdust. Hence, if the bezel is pushed down sufficiently around the stone, there won't be any movement of the stone.
Thanks for your support! : )
Nice video but where are the odd shaped stones?
This short video was posted to answer viewers questions regarding what to do about stones with corners when bezel setting. It was not intended to showcase any actual stones. Sorry if the title was misleading. : )
This was very helpful thanks. What I'd love to know is how is this type of stone?: etsy.me/28LNxuz (especially the 4th photo) It almost looks like a larger bezel cup was used and then the stone was dropped in with heat applied to the bottom and sides. Not sure how you wouldn't wreck the stone though.
Notice that you cannot see behind the stones in any of the photos. That's because the seller doesn't want you to see that the stones are glued onto the rings. The appearance of what looks like a bezel on the stones was created through electro-forming or plating. The stones were painted with a conductive paint and given a thick plating. I hope this answers your questions.
Thanks for your support! : )
Thank you for answering my question. Okay this makes sense. Saw another jewellery with this done in copper and just researched electroform copper to see how it was done. So I'm guessing anytime I see this cool wrinkled look around stones it's done with either the gold or copper option. Is there a way to work with rough stones like this and use a bezel cup of some sort. Or is the best solution doing something like wire wrapping?
less talking more demo,
I hear you Sara. By the way, the OJA is going to release a basic stone setting course on udemy.com in the near future. There will be plenty of demonstration (and talking) in the course.
Thanks for your support! : )