Garden Room Workshop: Part 6. Insulation & Plywood floor
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2024
- Find the full series playlist here: bit.ly/2BiLSyC
Part 6 of a video series about how to self-build a timber-framed garden room office (aka tiny house)/wood workshop in the UK.
This video covers insulating the floor, vapour barrier and plywood covering.
The purpose of this video series is to provide all the information required for viewers to build their own garden room rather than just a montage of the building work. It took me months of research to learn everything in these videos so I hope to save people time and money.
The videos are a mix of theory and footage of the build including all the mistakes I made along the way. I am not a builder or tradesman, just a keen DIY-er with some basic tools. Everyone can do this!
In the longer term, I hope to turn this channel into a community for garden room self-builders and to eventually evolve into a woodworking projects channel - the real purpose of my garden room!
Insulation is a complicated topic so in this video I just give an overview to give you the necessary knowledge to get building. I didn't mention thermal bridging, which is cold moving through the floor joists which are not insulated. I'll discuss this further in a later video about the roof insulation.
Garden room ideas: workshop, office, games room, cinema room, art studio, music studio, yoga retreat, spare bedroom, annexe or run a home business such as yoga classes or hair salon.
🌍My website - www.alidymock.com
📸Instagram - / alidymock
💌 Email - hello@alidymock.com
Tools used:
Circular saw to cut the overlapping plywood.
Mitre saw
Impact driver: www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er...
Hammer
Tape measure: www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-ty...
Pencil
Clamps
Saw
Spirit level as a straight edge: www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fa...
Caulk gun
Safety: gloves, eye-wear, ear protection, dust mask
Materials used:
Red cedar battens (use treated timber battens instead)
Nails
Celotex PIR 100mm thick 4x8' sheets
Expanding foam: www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...
Aluminium foil tape: www.toolstation.com/shop/p531...
Screws (4 x 50mm)
Grab adhesive: www.screwfix.com/p/gripfill-g...
Plywood-external, WBP, 18mm thick, B/BB grade
Second-hand PIR (heard good things about these guys):
www.secondsandco.co.uk/
Kingspan U-value calculator:
www.uvalue-calculator.co.uk/c...
Rockwool U-value calculator:
www.rockwool.co.uk/technical-s...
Good websites to check prices for materials :
www.selcobw.com/
www.builderdepot.co.uk/
Music:
/ aka-dj-quads - Jak na to + styl
From a fellow over-enthusiastic DIYer, I can't praise this video series enough. Impressed by the amount of research you have done and the knowledge you've gained. Love the level of detail, the explanations, the commentary, how informative they are - love it all....except for the music of course! 🤣
Mate, this is the most comprehensive ‘how to’ I’ve seen on CZcams. Love that you cover the ‘why’ of the decisions you’ve made along with the other options available. Thank you
Cheers Andy, thanks for the feedback, glad you’re finding it useful.
Cheers Ali, really helpful for my flat roof bathroom. Looking forward to the next chapter.
Hi Ali, You are amongst a few amateur DIY builders who explain everything in its most practicable form. I've watched from part 1 to part 6, and i feel confident that with your advise and instructions i can follow what you have made. Thanks for making it easy for us all. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Tony, they were a bit sketchy editing wise at the beginning but glad the info has come through clear. This is a very doable project with a bit of thought and planning :)
What a fantastic tutorial, these videos have given me the confidence to have a go at a much smaller but similar project. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos to such a high standard.
This was just what I've been looking for. I'm about to pull up my floorboards, level everything, and then install the insulation and plywood as you did here, before replacing the hardwood on top. It seems that every video I've watched up until this point left out something! Thank you very much!
Follwing keenly. Can't wait to see what you clad it with.
Absolute legend the girlfriend and I wanted a extension on the house but found it will be cheaper to jst build a summer house down the bottom of the garden and your videos are exactly what I have been looking for can't wait to see it done. Keep up the good work buddy cheers.
Love it, cant wait to start my garden room in the summer
Loving these videos - about to start my own project similar to this.
I've just started looking at building something similar and have to say thus is the most comprehensive guide I've seen to date! You've already answered most of the questions I've had, thank you very much.Well done!
Great!
Great videos, I've nearly finished my (tiny) garden room but i WISH I'd seen these earlier....builders assume you just know all this stuff! very informative, thanks
Yeh they assume it's obvious stuff lol
I’m hooked watching these. Feeling very inspired to also build one of these perhaps on a slightly smaller scale. Thank you very much for all your clear and insightful videos. Much appreciated.
:) it's definitely a doable project.
Loving this series! Really appreciate the level of detail and editing behind every episode, thank you 👍
Glad you like them Fred!
Thank you Ali for these wonderful detailed videos of your garden room. Just about to start a very similar build and the information you have shown helps and supports my thinking brilliantly. Looking forward to the remaining videos. Regards
Ive never come across such a good helpful DIY video on the whole of CZcams. Thank you!
:)
Another very insightful and clear video
Addictive...once you watch the first one you simply need to watch the rest...great upload.
We were planning a garden office / shed area in a L-shaped formation and although we are complete novices we (well the other half) is very hands on when it comes to DIY. We watched 00s of online videos but nothing comes close to the comprehensiveness of these videos! So informative, well thought out, easy to follow and tbh, it has inspired me to get my hands dirty (will have to do the nails later!). Ali, thank you, subscribed and really looking forward to watching all the videos. Thank you again!!
That's fantastic Tahera. It's great fun, especially if you do it with your other half, and will save you a ton by doing it yourselves. Thanks for the comments too!
From start to finish I am glued to this channel. Brilliant again Ali, a big thumbs up from me. Regards Paul
Thanks Paul!
(In case it's of use to others who go down the rockwool insulation under the floor. I found a tarp worked well. You have to drape it over the joists though and support it underneath.
If I made my shed again I would use celotex type insulation but its was not so easily available 20 years ago.
I would like to say thanks to Ali, so informative. I'm going to build an extension soon. The way its been built so well on a very tight budget is just the impetus I need.
I've been a carpenter/joiner/cabinet maker for over twenty years and I have to say for a lay man you have good skills. I build a 500 sq ft workshop in much the same style as this.
Great videos and details. My own research has been cut in half. Thank you!
Your videos are fantastic. I've been watching videos on garden room building for a long time now as I want to build one also. Your videos are by far the best I have seen. My main concern was how to approach the foundations and floor structure. Your videos have helped allot with that. So Thankyou and please keep them coming. Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks dude. You're not alone, the foundations were hardest for me too, took me ages to decide.
Fantastic design!!! I love this for every one
The timing of finding this video is incredible for me. Thanks for creating this really useful video. Your build looks very similar to my plans.
Cool! Welcome to the channel Jamie!
Great video and I'm enjoying the series.
Really diligent. Everything done properly. Excellent series. Well done. Subscribed.
Best video hands down for this sort of work
This video is (the whole garden room/workshop videos) about 3 years old but still the most comprehensive video on CZcams. Going to start my project soon and i am a novice at this but your videos have truly inspired me to do it myself rather than getting someone in to coming in a doing it. My project will be smaller as i am looking at 4m x 3m but some great ideas between you and 'rag n bone brown'. thanks
Great stuff! Well done for giving it a go
Wish I'd found these sooner! Currently renovating an outbuilding and this is really helpful 😁
This was so helpful. I'm going to be constructing a shed for tropical fish and I want to insulate it as best I can.
Super useful series. Thanks a lot!
Nice work, bomb proof video!
Really like what you've [produced here with your step by step videos. Very professional and well researched. Thank You!
Thanks Jason!
Been looking through CZcams for some real guidance on building my cabin. Was looking for how to create the timber frame. Your videos and in depth explanations are excellent. Thanks.
Glad I could help!
Hi again Ali, another great vid. Love the channel and all the information within. Keep it up mate.
Thanks again Tom, will do!
Hi Ali Paul again very impressive workmanship and attention to detail again in this video plywood was for sure your best option for this as a finished floor as osb doesn't have as nice of a flat nice surface and plywood is a better overall finish i also like the way you done your jig for fitting your insulation also i would like to note you done a good job using the expanding foam a lot of tradesmen would not have went to the effort of doing that so well done there
really enjoying your progress and attention to detail brilliant.
Thanks Paul, glad you like the series :)
Another great one. Keep it up!
Excellent series of videos.
Very helpful and appreciated. Thanks for video
This is so informative and very clearly explained. I also appreciate all the maths and wise words of precautions on various points. Looking forward to seeing more as this is pretty much the kind of thing I want to build too, although it will be on a slight slope.
Glad you like it Tim. Yep mine was on a slope too. Have a look for my first 'Extra' video on that and related topics.
Ali Dymock Thanks, will do.
Good work, glad I found this
This is such a great video, thanks so much for sharing, this has helped me in doing a summer house for a friend
Great videos. Just realised thats my local building merchants. They are good guys, love a shop where you can buy screws one at a time
Great set of videos, just embarking on a garden office build in light of the current Pandemic, not in the building trade myself, but these videos make it understandable - about to complete the floor and move on to Part 7 - Many, many thanks...
That's great to hear Ian! Defo watch all the way through the series before starting as everything in the build is interconnected and there are lessons later on which apply here.
@@AliDymock yeah have watched right through a number of times and make a work breakdown and checklist as I go through so as hopefully not to miss anything. BTW: Did you make a video that covered cladding the building. Thanks again...
Brilliant!
Great video mate 👍
Agree with all the comments here, really informative vids so thank you! - considering there are so many people doing something similar it’s surprising how little decent info there is out there. A lot of it seems to contradict each other, especially regarding breathable membranes for walls, so looking forward to seeing how you went about that?
It's a popular trend right now for sure! There is some wrong info out there but a lot of it is subjective and there's no right way, so it's best not to get hung up on it.
Other than the foundations I'm building mine properly, like they build a house in the US, with few shortcuts or cost savings but everyone has a different need so there's little wrong with doing things differently. No doubt as more people find this video there'll be people disagreeing with this or that.
As for the breathable membrane-see sneak peak in Part 3-you can see the Tyvek housewrap - proper stuff!
Hi Ali Top Videos which have helped me alot. Im currently at this stage at the moment.Celotex has just been delivered.Better crack on.Thanks again.
Enjoy! Don't forget the dust mark!
Super video 👍
Great video my friend
Never have I come across a diy vid with such attention to detail...... you narration is impeccable. Perhaps you could get a job at the BBC?
Heheh thanks Adrian. You know, I did always want to be the next Attenborough...🤓
@@AliDymock Or Charlie Dimmock LOL
Really informative Ali, and thanks for including the costing diagrams, there are so many different options here in the UK and trying to weigh up cost against suitability is sometimes tricky.
I am in the process of buying a new home, specifically chosen, as it excitingly, comes with a big double garage. Whoop! I really am excited as my current workshop is comparatively small.
My plan is to build within a freestanding workshop and I have been researching the most cost effective insulation types, so a big thanks again, your experience here is a great help.
I continue to be impressed by your workmanship, especially that snug fit cut, nice.
How’s the new job going? Be sure to let me know if it falls through, I am known to make a cracking cup of builder’s tea!
Btw, I do hope to see more from you here after the build is complete, your videos are interesting, fun and I am learning a lot. 👍🏼
Looking at my channel statistics, I think you're one of only a few women who have watched my videos! 😂
That sounds very feasible-by attaching timbers to the walls of the garage and then insulating in-between you'll be able to work in there all year round. Regarding workmanship- even if you pay an expensive builder firm, they won't take the care getting things like insulation nice and snug, so even though it was my first time doing it I know I get a better finish doing it myself.
Job is going very well-sorry! Though if you lived nearby, happy to trade ideas for tea!
Great narrative.
Thanks very much for the informative videos.
You have a new subcsriber!!
great series, I wish I had seen this a few years ago, I have a steel shed I need to insulate and thinking about the options on the concrete floor and whether I need the walls and roof to be cold , or fully insulated, and the moisture requirements .
really helpful
Just for future reference, OSB 3 is more weather resistant than ply, and if taped also acts as an air barrier. Although unless treated with an anti slip coating, it is lethal for flooring in wood workshops when sawdust is on it. :o
Very useful videos and explanations. Costs and timescales to do things would be helpful but understand that these are variables depending on project.
I wonder if you're THE Martin Freeman and are planning to build yourself a hobbit hole...
I've put the time of year in the videos so you can see how quickly I got things done but as you say, it will vary from person to person and different projects and building methods. As for costs, I'll do a budget video at the end and then update the descriptions in each to say how much it cost to get to each stage :)
+Ali Dymock unfortunately not the just one of many....but still considering a build.
Great thanks
Great video series Ali. Just one thing for people to be aware of and that is that you don't get the insulation benefit from the aluminium foil covering of Celotex unless you have an air gap between that reflective cover and the next material. So where you lay the plywood directly on top of the Celotex you aren't getting that benefit from the product but you are still achieving the "U" values you were after. The reflective benefit can come in cavity walls where there is still an air gap between the Celotex and the brickwork.
Thanks Neil. The main reason for taping the floor was a vapour barrier but had hoped it would reflect infrared radiant heat back towards the building too. Do you know why it need the air gap around it exactly?
Ali Dymock yes it is back to your GCSE Physics lessons on heat transfer. Essentially three types Conduction, convection and radiation. Conduction is the most efficient so when things are touching then this will be the primary form of heat transfer. With your celotex it is touching the reflective surface which is touching the ply which is touching the flooring so the heat will move backwards and forwards through the materials via conduction. For the reflective/radiant barrier to be efficient at all and not dominated by the convection then you need to break the conductive link. You do this with an air gap minimum an inch. This allows the reflective material to reflect the radiant heat back. You can test this with a frying pan on the stove. Obviously if you put your hand on it it will burn if you put your hand six inches away you will feel a strong heat but if you put a bit of tin foil in between you won’t feel the heat. Put the tin foil directly in the pan and it conducts the heat like the rest of the pan and your hand will feel hot again!
The celotex and tape does a good job as a vapour barrier though and the celotex as a pure non-conductive material does a good job too.
Brilliant. I love an analogy. Might have to use that one in the video after next. Thanks for taking the time
@@neiljpearce This is interesting and too late for my build as my floor has been constructed using Ali's videos as an instructional guide.
Neil Pearce - if I apply your method to my walls, won't I need some form of ability for air to actually get INTO the walls to circulate in the first place? I've not even bought any PIR for my walls yet as I'm waiting until I've routed my cabling for electrics, but I too have used 4x2 stud walling. The 4x2 actually measures a depth of around 95mm so was intending buying 90mm PIR, however, based on your info I would need to go a lot thinner than that to gain a sufficient 'gap' for air, and then I would need to look at how I get air into the walls to circulate like the roof.
I'm using your 'air gap' method for my 'cold roof' system (unlike Ali, I don't have the ability to build up to use a 'warm roof' option due to Permitted Developments), and will have vents at the front and back between my roof joists and the gap over my PIR for air to circulate.
He building will be excellent.
Hi Ali, I love this series of videos, you've inspired me to build a Log cabin at the end of the garden and I'll be using the same "Block and wooden frame base construction as you.
In this video you mention about not using Chipboard Flooring but, don't give a specific reason why? I was thinking of using Egger Protect Coated weather Resistant Chipboard flooring.
Yes I was thinking the same. I will be using a DPM over the top to keep it dry until I have my roof on. Egger protect is no longer available that’s y I’m using a different brand but keeping the DPM on it
Hello Ali, I’ve watched your vid numerous times and yep you’ve convinced me to give it a go myself.I’m going to be making the same size 30m2 so would you please be able to tell me what quantities of materials I need. Thanks
thanks for this All..I was beginning to loose hope of comprehending what I need to start my building
You can do it!
@@AliDymock What sort of concrete blocks have you got
Definitely protect the exposed cut edges of the flooring, on all edges! Especially as the external walls are going to sit on the flooring??
Also, no need to leave gaps on the flooring sheets. Plywood is STABLE and does not expand and contract - due to 90° thin layers and glue.
Brilliant series.
Just come across your series, and loving it. Going to binge the lot!😂😂
Selling my house to buy something run down to do up, and set up my own garage workshop like this.
Great series!
Would it be worth revisiting with new cost options?
One thing i didn't understand from early permitted developments - how can you have a 3m roof mono pitch, with a max 2.1 ceiling joist? 3m back wall to a 2.1m front wall, with sloping roof??
Also, from memory where is datum taken from to measure heights?? My back garden slopes up from the house!🙄
THANKS
Great series of videos thanks! I am in the planning stages of a similar but smaller project. I need planning due to being in a national park, so hopefully no 2.5m height limit. What do you think of using a floating floor with the PIR on top of the subframe rather than between the joists to save the trouble of cutting it?
Great video series. I am using your videos and principles used to build a glamping pod. Can I ask why you say 'don't use chipboard' for the floor? Thanks in advance.
Thank you for your tutorial, I really like it! Do you have tutorial for roof insulation as well because I like your teaching method.
Yep, Parts 9/10!
@@AliDymock Awesome! Thank you so much!
@@CuocsongoanMach 😁
Very good again! When can we expect more ?
Thanks! I’m trying to keep to a bi-weekly schedule.
It’s the working out of how to present the information that takes the time...
Hi Ali,
Enjoying the videos. I am just going to construct a garden room. I am going to construct a floor like yours but concerned about rodents getting into the PIR from underneath.
I can see from the last pic of the vid, the build is wet from rain by the looks of it. Are the materials used in the vid generally OK to be outdoors and exposed to the elements for a short time? I'm considering my own build and curious about how long I have to put into it before erecting a roof to help keep the bulk of rain away
Hi Ali, first of all thanks, I found your videos to be a of great help and full of useful information I hadn't thought of, i'm now starting to build my own out building and I just have a question that's been bugging me and that is how do you stop mice from eating into you floor insulation, any ideas would be appreciated, cheers
Hey, it's. a really common question so I will do a video on it for you but options are: build a concrete block wall all around the perimeter, put mesh on the perimeter down to below ground level, put mesh under your floor joists, put OSB under your floor joists, put OSB rectangles on top of your battens :)
Just found this series, really helpful as it's almost exactly the same as what I'm currently building. One thing that's bothering me though is whether or not a ply floor will stand up to the rain while I'm building it? I think my ply is the same as yours, but I've already noticed a bit that seems to be de-laminating on the edge and it's been under a tarp since I got it a few weeks ago! I'm also concerned about standing the walls on the ply floor as that would make it impossible to replace in future. Any thoughts? Is it worth bringing it inside the walls perhaps (that would involve fitting a load of noggins for it to rest on)?
Hi, excellent video series, I was curious that the underside of your floor insulation was exposed are you not concerned about moisture or rodents getting into the PIR? Thanks
Cheers Richard.
Moisture: - nope, the space below allows air flow to remove moisture, just like in a house
Rodents: - again no, they don't really get into PIR and would struggle to climb up there. It's honestly no different to how a house's floor is made (just better insulated!)
Hey Ai! Great Video, can you provide a link to the source where you found out that insulation gives diminishing returns once you go past a certain thickness for PUR? Thanks!
There's quite a lot of articles and calculators that talk about/show it here's one (scroll down to the line graph): www.thegreenage.co.uk/what-is-the-recommended-thickness-of-loft-insulation/
Hi Ali - love your work here....we've just started our log cabin in the forest....quick question, floor insulation going in this week.... You mentioned that foil-backed PIR needs 'several centimetres space above it' to properly reflect the heat back up. I've battened out my joists to make the insulation flush...worth re-doing this? It'll make sealing each joist bay more difficult.. Thanks!
The foil won't have the reflective effect unless there's an air gap in front of it. Thanks for these videos.
You're spot on. I didn't know that at the time. It seems like 5cm of air space is needed for that reflective radiation effect 👍
This is excellent. Could I ask how you knew the ground under the blocks wouldn't sink under the weight? (what constitutes good ground for laying down the hardcore). We have quite clay like soil. Thanks for the tutorial, really clear
Blind hope mostly 😉 I just got down to ground that felt undisturbed and really firm. Clay has it's issues but it's not going to collapse under your blocks. Go deeper, pour concrete first if you are worried though
Hi. Thanks for a very informative video, I am planning an almost identical project and have undertaken similar investigation to yourself. I'm looking at using T&G OSB floor boards to provide better locking and squeak resistance, although I will be covering them with some for of laminate timber for a final finish - any thoughts as I notice you have gone for butt joint plywood? Looking forward to the next vid, keep up the great work!
Hi Mark, that's cool- it's very rewarding!
hmmm- one reason I didn't use T&G is because it's harder to find but I'm sure it helps make the spacing easier. That said I don't think it provides any other benefit, especially as you'll be covering it.
Two things I'd say: 1. make sure you're happy with your foundations and insulation below as T&G is hard to pull up as it all locks together. 2. don't screw into the last joist before you've got your next sheet in as this may mess up the T&G and make the next sheet harder to slot in.
There's definitely no one way of building so go with what you think is best for you- in this case it probably won't make a great deal of difference in the long run.👍
Hi, Ik love you video's! one question: would the floating floor give enough sound isolation to use the room as a studio? Would it be possible to fill the gap between the ground and the insulation with sand so the sound cannot travel underneat the floor?
Hmmm, I wouldn't advise that as the timber needs to breathe. For sound insulation you can use an underlay beneath the flooring to help. Another option is to lay strips of rubber (bit of your rubber roof if you like) over the joists and glue them to the joists and ply!
Hi. Thanks for these videos. Great source of information. I have a couple of questions if I may. On the video of the span stats, you said about when choosing the depth of your timber, this would effect the thickness of your flooring on top. I don't think you mentioned it again. ? I was hoping to go with the first one on the chart for the floor. 38mm by 97mm at 600mm centres which means I have to set my blocks at no more than 1.3m apart. I'm fine with that as blocks are virtually free lol. Will I be OK with 18mm thick osb or ply on top?
I was thinking of rubber strips on the joists to help sound proof and also get to the magic 100mm for my PIR insulation.
Also, can the walls be erected straight onto the frame and not the osb ? If why not.
Many thanks and thanks for your time...
these are brilliant. I'm planning on "attempting" to build something similar this summer. how often and how much time did you work on yours?
Good question! I was wondering when someone would ask me that. Quite a lot of time is the answer and there's still a way to go with electrics and plumbing etc. However, I've been working out everything as I go along which shouldn't be the case for you with these videos!
I reckon that 3 months working some evenings and weekends is doable to get a reasonably water-tight structure but I'd try to get the foundations done in April/May so you have those 3 months for the floor, walls and roof.
Superb videos. Just getting ready to start mine. Quick question regarding the flooring. If I was to use the OSB that I have to keep dry, is there a reason why I can't build the structure to a weather proof finish and then install the floor rather than installing the floor with the building erected on top as you have here?
no reason other than it's nice to have a flat floor in order to build the walls before raising them.
Brilliant video Ali, i am starting to build a garden room next week and this has been very helpful, thank you. Roughly how long did it take you from frame assembly through to finished subfloor? I am hoping for about 4/5 days work (mostly on my own) but i have a terrible track record of underestimating how long things actually take haha!
Everyone underestimates time, effort and cost of construction so you're not alone. This whole project, I didn't really know what I was doing, everything was new to me and there weren't great videos about to show how it's done so it took me a long time. I think the floor was around a week but I reckon now I could do it in a couple of days if I really went at it. The hammering in of the square twist nails is rather time consuming though.
Hi Ali,
Can you provide details on what my base should consist of, from the ground up, what holds the base insulated panels in position?
Is there anything to protect it from the elements at ground level?
Hi Kevin, are you going for a similar timber floor to mine? If so you can probably copy most of what I do in Parts 4, 5 and 6. If under PD 2.5m then you'll want your piers closer to the ground than mine appear. I'll tackle the issue of the insulation being bare underneath in an upcoming video.
Fair play
Evening mate about to do my flooring did u cover the ply with tarp to stop rain getting on it until u completed the build and got it water tight
I tried to as much as possible. Hard to do with the walls up though!
Hi Ali. My garcden studio is progressing quite nicely, largely thanks to your videos. Quick question-in hindsight- I did as you did-sat my PIR insulation on small battens at the bottom of my floor joists and noggins. I too have a Damp proof sheet on ground. Is it ok not to sit PIR on 9mm OSB or anything, so the PIR isnt so exposed to the ground etc?
I am going to bring this up in a future video but mine has been absolutely fine. I don't think OSB or ply underneath is necessary.
@@AliDymock thanks Ali
Hi Ali, one question. How do you protect underneath the floor section? I.e. If I was to look up from underneath, would I see bear joists and PIR or did you protect it?
Hi, did you consider SIPs in your build? I've been reading about them and they look like the future!
Yeh I looked at them and have seen them be used in Scotland a lot, well worth considering but I went for traditional framing for more control and flexibility. Wouldn't rule them out for the next build though!
Great videos really useful. Starting a similar build but one question - what quantities of the materials did you order? I.e. timbers. Thanks
Gosh I can't remember exactly. I plan to go through everything in a future video. You can probably pause the vids and work out exactly how many timbers I used etc but your best bet is to create a sketch of what you want to build and figure it all out from there :)
Hi Ali, we are building ours and have sized it to be 3 full board sheets - would you still stagger the boards or just lay them fully down. Seems odd to cut one just to offlay? cheers
I was wondering about the protection from underneath the floor where the insulation is exposed. How protected is the floor from underneath due to weather rain etc?
It's on concrete piers anyway so for the bit of moisture that will get underneath, the PIR insulation is waterproof anyway and the gap under the building allows for air to circulate and dry any out.
Ali, loving these videos, can't wait to see how it ends up. I'm building a very similar structure at the moment. I wondered about the vapour barrier in the floor. You went for Celotex and then sealed that with the foil tape which would have give you a vapour barrier. I can't afford Celotex for my room so I've gone for some really thick polystyrene instead.. (something better than nothing etc). Would you add a layer of plastic over the top to create a vapour barrier? I can't find many sources of info on this
It is ridiculously expensive at the moment! Yeh definitely better than nothing. I would use one as if nothing else it will stop draughts coming in and general air leaks which cost a lot on the heating bills. You'll see in the next vid (part 10) how I use this on the roof: www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Green-Polythene-Vapour-Barrier---2-5-x-20m/p/153230.
Of course, all the screws pierce it as they do for foil tape but overall it's worth doing I'd say.
Yeah it's crazy money. I'm going to opt for rockwool in the walls and only use celotex or similar in the roof. I'm hoping it will be enough. Thanks for the advice on the vapour barrier. Floor goes down next weekend. I can't wait to start work on the carpentry after what feels like weeks of digging and demolishing!
I think that sounds sensible. It'll be fine! I know the feeling Paddy, couldn't wait to be finished with demo/digging/blocks! But don't worry, you'll soon feel the same about the floor 😆
I've learnt so much form your excellent vids - many thanks. I am going for a concrete base for several reasons but that leaves me with a few questions. Do I need to fit a Damp Proof Membrane between the concrete and the PIR? Given I intend to use 50mm PIR (if thats enough) with taped joints do I need to include a Vapour Barrier above the PIR. I see you used 18mm external grade ply but given I am using a concrete base could I go thinner on the Ply (ie 12mm)? I assume I just use grab adhesive to secure ply?
Hi Mike, I'm a bit lost as to why you need ply for a concrete base? Perhaps watch my 'Thermal Mass' video which looks at concrete bases.
@@AliDymock Hi Ali, Sorry I wasn't clear. Your video on "Insulating a concrete slab" described 3 main options. One of these comprised hardcore/sand/DPM/Concrete/PIR/Vapour Barrier/Chipboard with the walls sitting directly on the concrete slab. My questions related to this design ie if I tape the joints of the PIR sheets do I still need to add a VB above the PIR? Although I am following your suggestion and using 50mm PIR on top of the concrete, do I need to used 18mm ply above the PIR (as per your design based on a Joist supported floor) or will 12mm ply be OK for a design based on concrete slab? Do the walls sit directly on the concrete slab as per your drawings or should a Damp Proof strip be laid in between concrete face and Botton edge of floor?
Hi Ali, I am doing a proect and was wondering, if there will be a vermin issue if the insulation (celotex) is open to elements when sitting inside the timber frame.
Hello would you recommend I construct the walls as you have done or use SIPS panels?
I think both are great options. In brief timber-frame advantages: stronger, more bespoke. SIPS: faster, no insulation to cut, no or less thermal bridging. Personally I feel timber is overall better but I may be bias because I like timber but I think SIPS have their place too.