good question! even I can't find it, but there are many more videos about wheels - this is one of the more comprehensive ones - czcams.com/video/B4yj-dHch_4/video.html
This was great. I picked up this very model as a "cadaver", something I could practice on... it was running when I got it, so I figured it would be easy to tell if I screwed up or enhanced it. I did not pull apart the engine (this time, maybe next time), but I did check the gears, clean and re-lube them, cleaned wheels, etc. And I was looking for an EZ way to try LocoFi, and as you said this loco has engine isolated from power, so should be easy to give that technology a try (I am purely DC and no desire to go to DCC, cause something next gen is out there: Wifi, Bluetooth, battery, no rail power, etc). Which one will win, probably not until I'm way gone, but I have no need on my 4x8 to convert Dad's old DC stuff (especially steam loco's) to DCC.
Ellite194, I have tried this method on an exact locomotive and it works amazing as if it was new. However I can hear a certain gear not turning make a clicking sound. I might have to repair using your baking soda method. Either way this way is guaranteed to work.
also check to see if the gear next to the problem gear is turning like it should - often a bad gear wears down a tooth on the gear next to it. One of my other videos shows how to clad a gear with tin foil to fix the worn tooth problem.
the GP38-2 is one that I did do a longer video about restoring it to excellent performance, also somewhere I did a video about wiring a GP38-2 and a GP50 together and they working amazing - plus the 2 F units that were used for hydro-dipping
@@elite194 i added some weight to it for added traction.. The traction tires i like are made of clear silicone and have good grip to them. I just enjoy taking these low end model engines and beefing them up. I get crap from some of my model train friends because i run cheaper stuff, but i cannot justify or can afford to pay what they pay for stuff.
watch the video of the GP38-2 and GP50 wired together - that's enough to stop criticism, the sound and performance is super excellent and the locomotives are dirt cheap to get
funny thing, when i snap the 2 cases back together and secure them none of the gears turn no matter how hard I try. If I pry the 2 ppieces apart just a little they then spin freely till I snap the truck gear cover back on then they wont turn anymore.
Your series actually didn’t answer my only question, how do you fix the tiny copper wires that are coiled up in the core when they break off from the sides where they are welded...
if the core windings are cut, you have to replace the core - one of the things I plan to do soon is showing how to put a DVD motor in place of a totally burned up motor like you have
The red grease im using spreads with thin strands to those parts. I've started using marvel on those bearings, just a pinhead. The bearings are phosphor bronze and will work fine without lube, but I discovered later that marvel oil like you'd find in grampas's lawn shed is a nice touch.
Hey guys where is part 4? I'm fully invested in watching the painting of the wheels and the track test!
good question! even I can't find it, but there are many more videos about wheels - this is one of the more comprehensive ones - czcams.com/video/B4yj-dHch_4/video.html
This was great. I picked up this very model as a "cadaver", something I could practice on... it was running when I got it, so I figured it would be easy to tell if I screwed up or enhanced it. I did not pull apart the engine (this time, maybe next time), but I did check the gears, clean and re-lube them, cleaned wheels, etc. And I was looking for an EZ way to try LocoFi, and as you said this loco has engine isolated from power, so should be easy to give that technology a try (I am purely DC and no desire to go to DCC, cause something next gen is out there: Wifi, Bluetooth, battery, no rail power, etc). Which one will win, probably not until I'm way gone, but I have no need on my 4x8 to convert Dad's old DC stuff (especially steam loco's) to DCC.
the U36B is coming back pretty soon to get DCC - the pair look fantastic to this day
Ellite194, I have tried this method on an exact locomotive and it works amazing as if it was new. However I can hear a certain gear not turning make a clicking sound. I might have to repair using your baking soda method. Either way this way is guaranteed to work.
also check to see if the gear next to the problem gear is turning like it should - often a bad gear wears down a tooth on the gear next to it. One of my other videos shows how to clad a gear with tin foil to fix the worn tooth problem.
I literally am working on a UP Bachmann gp 38 2 with this motor.
the GP38-2 is one that I did do a longer video about restoring it to excellent performance, also somewhere I did a video about wiring a GP38-2 and a GP50 together and they working amazing - plus the 2 F units that were used for hydro-dipping
@@elite194 i added some weight to it for added traction.. The traction tires i like are made of clear silicone and have good grip to them. I just enjoy taking these low end model engines and beefing them up. I get crap from some of my model train friends because i run cheaper stuff, but i cannot justify or can afford to pay what they pay for stuff.
watch the video of the GP38-2 and GP50 wired together - that's enough to stop criticism, the sound and performance is super excellent and the locomotives are dirt cheap to get
funny thing, when i snap the 2 cases back together and secure them none of the gears turn no matter how hard I try. If I pry the 2 ppieces apart just a little they then spin freely till I snap the truck gear cover back on then they wont turn anymore.
the sideframes have a direction, the inside is meant to be oriented in only one way
Your series actually didn’t answer my only question, how do you fix the tiny copper wires that are coiled up in the core when they break off from the sides where they are welded...
if the core windings are cut, you have to replace the core - one of the things I plan to do soon is showing how to put a DVD motor in place of a totally burned up motor like you have
I noted that you did not lubricate the wheel axle bearings or the gear axle bearings. Is the motor housing made of a self-lubricating plastic?
The red grease im using spreads with thin strands to those parts. I've started using marvel on those bearings, just a pinhead. The bearings are phosphor bronze and will work fine without lube, but I discovered later that marvel oil like you'd find in grampas's lawn shed is a nice touch.
worst cob job I've ever seen. Did;nt even clean the armature, all thumbs.