Thank you for this tear down. It reveals how much more engineering and refinement has gone into the z10 than compared to the Kingsong or Gotway wheels. I was thinking about purchasing the MSX, but this tear down makes me reconsider. I have purchased many products from xiaomi already, and have always found them high in quality and reasonably priced.
Sure thing. Hopefully you've done your research, as there are few quirks to buying a Z10, as not all wheels are perfect. Also note, Ninebot have themselves have hinted at the development of a "Z10 Pro" FWIW.
Marty puts slime in his. I think I will consider that after riding it for several weeks or months, just to see how the tires hold up under Boston conditions. Also I do plan on coming to New York with my V5F to experience New York before riding the Z10 in New York. It just seems there are so many places to ride in New York, not that Boston is small (well it is small) but yeah, New York seems vast.
For tubeless, you need to put tire sealant like Stans regardless, to seal the bead to the rim. I think there's a Slime for tubeless too. Nice~ yes, NYC is very ideal for EUC, but I'd say the same for Boston too. As I went to school in Boston, me, +CitiWheel and another fellow rider friend did a weekend ride in Boston/Cambridge last year, and it was predictably great on EUC!
Hi Houseofjob. Thanks for a great video, I'm about to undertake the task of changing the control board of my Z10 and your video is my best shot at succeeding 🙏😮
Thank you for this video! Thanks to it I was able to dismantle the wheel after I hit the pothole and damaged the rim and tire. Now I will just need to play the video in reverse and put it back together. :)
*Clings to the screen*. I just want the z6, I don't care at all about the other z models. The second someone finally gets a z6, I'd LOVE to see a full review and long ride test.
FYI, per sources, the only difference between models is the battery densities (same number of cells) and the software restrictions that limit speed and power accordingly. The motor itself is the same across all models.
do i need to do the entire teardown of i need to change tires? also will just regular tires from a tire shop fit? or do i have to get a specific tire from ninebot?
You've been through hell unscrewing all of it and disconnecting cables. I hope the new versions of this could be less difficult most especially when your only goal is to change tire.
+snee There are simpler EUCs for tire changes, like InMotion or King Song, but yes, not as simple as eboards, or even ekick scooters. But the one caveat with the Z is that it's tubeless and should be more durable than a tubed tire. Even with the pain of tire/tube changes, the benefits in practicality over eboards is worth it IMHO (riding in the rain, not being limited by terrain, i.e. cobblestone, etc.)
stop-plugged is the work around... would like to see your bin set-up for organizing your screws upon disassembly. Its easy to put the wrong size of screw into a hole during reassembly and damage the hardware.
+James Thomas I see, good to know regarding stop-plugging! I didn't have anything intricate to keep the screws, just a generic plastic tray where I grouped like screws together.
@@houseofjob I want the monster but the mess of a build throws me off. However I heard Z10 has a 10% failure rate with the motherboards? My v10 feels safest but I want a seated monster v3 so bad, just seems built like a tornado so Im holding off -_-
@@AuRowe I believe it's pick your poison; EUC is still an early adopter sport, if you may. For me & the Monster, the troubles are worth it due to the quality of the ride, one you cannot find in any other EUC IMHO, albeit there is a bit of a learning curve, even coming from other wheels (arguably the most difficult wheel to master I think). Main issues with the Monster have always been the weak shell and warped shims over time. The recent v2 & v3 Monsters also seem to have changed parts origin, where the axle nut keeps loosening for myself & many local NYC riders, but I am experimenting with using Vibra-tite gel-based thread locker to hold the nut. For the Z, yes, the board does seem to have a minority of issues with the occasional sensor that burns out on the board (I never experienced with my former Z). Also, if you don't manage the battery charging right, you can experience voltage imbalance when braking hard and/or many times over a trip due to regen. But the quirks of the Z ride, and the build quality are top notch IMHO. In the end, I think you pick the wheel that has the issues you would be most comfortable mitigating the known issues with.
A whole new level of quality of EUCs. I hope they pursue and make faster wheels with better handling (not as wide tyres) as that would make me IMMEDIATELY buy a xiaomi wheel. Problem is they handle like crap and limits speed and why do low voltage when everyone else strives for 100V +. BUT BUILD .. SECOND TO NONE... None of current manufacturers, Gotway (garage build LOL), Kingsong, InMotion, Veteran even comes close
Haha, I'm with you, but give Ninebot Some credit, this wheel is like year+ old now, and they're squeezing remarkable performance relatively speaking out of much much lower Voltage than their competitors FWIW.
I agree again, i was amazed when it came out. My friend outrolled my tesla with this on paper less performamcy wheel, both in range and top speed (might have been the same, dont quite remember). Amd ot felt super stable, like a tank compared to the twitchy tesla. Still
Sorry, no, I never did one (the other Z10 disassembled battery video is a re-post). Maybe you can gather more information via the ecoDrift teardown page? ecodrift.ru/2018/08/10/ninebot-z6-razbiraem-izmeryaem-i-vzveshivaem/
Adter watching this teardown, i would think that they would of gave this a higher waterproof rating. It looks like all the components are seales pretty good.
I never go by the IP rating of the EUC manufacturers; many are incorrectly rated (over-rated). It's better to pay attention to where the board and batteries of the wheel are located and prevent water exposure to those areas as much as possible, also minimizing time spent riding in heavy rain. In the end, there is no such thing as a waterproof wheel, as the wheel design needs to factor for overheating. All current solutions are a combination of multiple shell barriers, sometimes with gasket-type sealing or similar, then heat shrink wrap and/or enclosure for the battery, and silicone sealant coating for the board & exposed wire connecting ends.
@@malvodasnipa Not sure, but one of our riders had quite a bit of rain gurgle out of his Z a few days back when it rained it here in NYC, and this was from normal riding, not aiming for pools of water.
Sorry, I've never had that problem with my first production-eWheels-bought Z10, but I know they posted something about it on the EUC forums, so I would search there. Also, if you can connect to it via bluetooth, there might be a way to 3rd party flash with the Ninetool, although that's a paid app (not 100% sure on this) forum.electricunicycle.org/forum/32-ninebot/
The pedal arms of the motor/tire assembly are fully engulfed by the shell in a complete donut circle, so you need to split the shell at the lower half. This is why I noted in the video that the top headlight/handle portion, you can kind of cheat entirely unscrewing all those elements up top, just unscrewing the main foundation screws on one side, so you have enough wiggle room to wedge the protruding pedal arms away from the case. A pain, I know... I made the vid!
Hi i just received a ninebot for chrismas from my girlfriend and im super sad.. Is not charging.. I open it to check if the cables was disconnected on the battery but they are connected and even the red light of the battery is flashing but is not working.. I cant turn on my ninebot z10.. Can you help me?
If you purchased from a questionable dealer/source (eBay/GearBest, etc.) you might be facing the same issue these guys are having regarding overly-discharged Z batteries: forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/12027-brand-new-z10-not-charging/ Definitely your first course of action should be to contact the dealer.
I can't say for sure, but if you can't undo the plastic cover for the wheel LED from the outside, I'd say yes, you have to probably split the case probably.
House-sama!! I crashed on my Z6, and the wheel's metallic rim is bent; scraping against the plastic when I trolley/ride. Is it possible to disassemble and send the wheel rim by itself to motorbike wheel refurbishers to straighten, or should I get a 16x?
Sorry, no, the rim of any EUC motor housing is all built-in together, so you can't just easily replace it unfortunately. This is why it's strongly recommended not to ride with the tire underinflated. As for a 16X, that's completely up to you. I can tell you that I wouldn't say the Z and 16X are similar feels though.
I am facing similar situation, though the rim is not as bent that it is touching the case. Aftet few attempts with good old hammer and hitting the rim througj the piece of wood the rim is coming back to its previus shape. I believe a goood craftman in a tire/wheel repair should repair it.
Master House!! My bent rim was fixed yesterday - for free - by a generous mechanic! .....aaand I already ordered a 16x last week during a shut-in phase of depression. ƪ(˘⌣˘)ʃ
@@jacektrybusz1841 The mechanic that hammered at mine had to heat up the dented area to a very high temperature, because it cracked a tiny bit the first time he heated it to the temperature usually adequate for car rims.
@@TheseusMinor Ah, that's good! Hopefully it's a sturdy as the original rim, welded perhaps (?) And yes, congrats on the 16X! Make sure to update to the latest firmware so you don't face all the power management issues riders are facing from not updating.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching! Yes, the offset design to distribute the weight evenly has to be most intriguing! I also am a fan of the non-solder motor wire connections, like how all high power machines (cars, etc) crimp, not solder, so no melting solder causing disconnects or shorts!
4:06 It would be nice to see someone rebuild the battery pack. That way a video would be out there if and when these things starts having battery failures in a few years or simply just start getting weak.
@@houseofjob Is the battery case pretty much just housing a shrink wrapped set of cells? Or is the plastic case (battery) molded to hold each of the battery cells? UPDATE I actually found a video of someone pulling the battery cover off. Its not in English. I'm not sure I would ever want to attempt tackling this.
@@Justin28082 Yes, I think I've found the video as well. PEVs must factor in constant shock, so none of the battery case designs directly contact the batteries, they are just an extra layer of protection. The batteries are always held together independently by shrink wrap and/or silicone, and with most of the official EUC manufacturer battery BMS's, the cells are spot welded to the BMS.
I believe: the buzzer is for warnings (overspeed, overcurrent, etc.), whereas the speaker is what your bluetooth device (typically phone) will connect to, to play music, GPS, etc.
Hi Chris ... my friend z10 Fell into a pool of water ... after that the gyro doesn’t work anymore .. do u have any idea which parts he should replace ? The mos or the main board ?
Wow, sorry to hear. That's a really tricky thing since any electronics submerged in water becomes an issue due to the short circuit factor. You could try to borrow someone else's Z to A-B swap parts and see what's still good, but it would really need a painstaking process to open both motor and battery to really ensure there is no water still in there that can short something or rust and create high resistance ultimately leading to burnout. I'm inclined to say, if you're not a technical guy, I would cut my losses, strip for parts or sell as water-logged wheel, sorry.
houseofjob fortunately we have several z10 around here... maybe we could do some swapping ... but that again ... do u have any idea which controls the self bAlancing? Tried searching the forum .. found no answer ... In case my friend decides to purchAse parts .. in your opinion which is a safer bet ? The main board or the mos board ?
@@futurespeed8694 I've seen plenty a waterlogged battery create fires via thermal runaway, so for me, that would be my biggest concern (not sure how well the battery is wrapped, but if this wheel was fully submerged, it's very likely water penetrated the battery cassette). Self balancing on an EUC depends on a whole chain of things. From inside the motor where the motor wires connect to the stator is one. Then the cables run out the axle to the lower board. Then the board can have shorting issues. Lastly, the battery not powering things properly can also result in lack of balancing. Without A-B-ing it with another Z, you're just flying blind, there is no way to know what's wrong.
Nice! If there was no 22" Monster series, I might be tempted by the SuperX. BTW, IMHO, even at 3" wide, the SuperX ride will be different from the Z, as I've owned and ridden the 2.75 wide (which stretches 3") Monster, and the Z required even more extreme hip movement, with even wider feet.
i think 3" is a good compromise between total hip and upper body movements and only using your feet and lower calf, its in a good medium. i tihkn if i can istall an extra 300wh in the msuper X then it will certainly be a little 19" mini monster! :D
Maybe for V2 they've upgraded it now, but pretty sure the v1 (no V2 at the time of this filming) I've had to fix multiple times for a friend was the old 21mm standard
Who knows! We all thought NB was dead back 3-4 years ago when they were recycling the 16" One IP into the 14" same spec series, then they dropped a surprise in this Z. I think EUC is last priority for the XiaoMi/Ninebot/Segway umbrella, so if they do drop a new wheel, it'll be awhile. And the new wheel I doubt will be high V, as they are stubborn with safety, as you can see by the Z10 being 14S, which is 1 cell down from their 15S 16" & 14" wheels.
@@houseofjob ah you mean they go lower voltage due to less risk for arcing? But aren't the cells themselves the biggest risk? I'm thinking fire du to overheat, overcharge and so on.
Maybe it's time to buy a z10 and do a 100V project :-) new motor, different control board i guess. But on the other hand i don't think batteries would fit if aiming for 2KWh 100V
@@bigbadboogie6842 There's an old school belief that running things at higher voltage is less safe than running at lower voltage (think that's why the older US electricity system is running 120V household vs overseas is 240V(?)) But yeah, what you allude to, that lower V means you need to run higher A, is very true, which is why NB made the whole damn underbelly of the Z10 innershell a gigantor heatsink, which is awesome IMHO because most manufacturers skimp monumentually IMHO in this cooling area, especially as the power keeps increasing for these EUCs. I guess the cells themselves are stressed more, but I think that's less trivial, as there are plenty in parallel.
@@bigbadboogie6842 Problem with the awesome tailored design, is that it's not very conducive to DIY cuz everything is packed so perfectly in it's space.
Glad you included SMB2 theme too. How would you compare the acceleration of the Z10 to the MSX? I'm pretty much sold on the Z10 even though it's 51V I agree with what you say. Just wondering though. In the vs NYC vid Tishawn said there's something stopping him from flooring it.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I wasn't able to try the Z10 side by side with the MSX, but from memory, I'd say both accelerations are similar (need more force than most are used to), but in different ways. The MSX is super stiff, even on soft mode, and can get a bit fatiguing on the feet, but once you apply some force to it, accelerates in a hurry. The Z10 is the same way, but not nearly as stiff (on hard mode), and can be tuned to be more soft & swingy ala the OG MSuperV3 series. But same deal, hard force, and accelerates in a hurry, but without the foot fatigue (obviously up to a lower max speed than the MSX). On the Tishawn ride, it was mainly that that was his first and only time riding the Z10, and he didn't want to break the unit or whatnot (same deal as the rest of us!). The Z10 had a small creak or sound to it that both him and I had experienced, but it happened only at speed and very infrequently. Towards the later part of the week riding the Z10, I never experienced it again.
With the OG NB pedals, I didn’t think the pedals were too low whatsoever, and if I’m remembering correctly, I measured the height at 5”, which is not the highest (6”: V10F, KS18L), but perfectly fine in today’s EUC market. Also, you won’t really even be able to make the same sharp turns on the Z that you can easily do on the typical 2.125” wide EUC tire, obviously.
@@malvodasnipa Relatively easy to tear it down using this helpful video to get to the wheel - as I had to last light after a bike shop owner mistakenly wrenched out the valve from the wheel while trying to pump up to the desired psi for my weight. Not all the wiring requires disconnection for getting to the motor - as I found out. Also helpful to have labelled trays for the screws as you dissemble it. Thanks houseofjob. Subscribed!
I’m not sure where you got the 80V idea from, but from the start at last year’s Ninebot Z unveiling in China, it was announced that the Z battery config would be 14S / 51.8V, similar voltage / configuration to every other wheel they’ve made so far (and also a source of confusion for many speculators who were saying the low voltage config of the Z leads to underpowering, which I can tell you from firsthand experience is simply not the case)
51V. In it's not serious .. I would buy now a wheel with only 84V no less ... the look and quality of course awesome this wheel but the batteries are not weak modern .. I do not recommend to buy
That's your judgement (I used to have the same opinion before getting a chance to review the Z), but I've ridden and owned plenty of 84V EUC's, and this has power that is competitive with those. Electrical engineer types will tell you that increasing EUC performance is not just simply increasing the voltage, it is more complicated than that. What is true is that increasing performance by increasing voltage IS EASIER and less costly for EUC companies with less R&D money than Ninebot/XiaoMi. But, with the Z, Ninebot has proven that you can keep the voltage low and invest more in handling hire currents to obtain relatively similar performance increases, ie. there are 2 ways to skin a cat here. Plus, with keeping voltages low, you run into less issues like the problems Gotway is having with their new 100V high voltage chargers not overheating to failure facebook.com/GranMathias/videos/2104370499636977/
you tell this information to the schoolboy that 60V will not be worse than 84V I had both of them ... first the battery capacity is very different and the starting currents too if my friend at 84 Vcan develop the speed and hold it for a long time even on almost sat down batteries when I'm half the speed I develop before the warning signal ... + 60V charge discharge they strongly digress memory .. buy only 84 V + and higher currents!
ummm... again, believe what you wanna believe. The Ninebot Z is phenomenal performance being 14S / 51V, a must-buy for me personally. I only believe what I actually experience for myself.
Sorry, I never got that far into the disassemble, couldn't tell you. But searching the EUC forums (forum.electricunicycle.org) or posting there would be a good start.
I did it today and all screws you have to remove are on the handle but there are two screws under the Side cover so I had to remove all three side covers on both sides. A lot of work and then just wiped the water of the button and power on/off worked again. The Button is not very waterproof.
@@milanfpv5099 Wow, yeah, maybe you should be trying to replace that power button then, electronics don't work the same in my experience once they've been exposed to water.
@@milanfpv5099 That won't happen, as there are safeties against that going above a certain speed threshold for all EUC (don't remember what exact speed, but it's something like 5-10kph)
Not an expert here. Blowing up the pics, they are demarcated (if I'm reading correctly): 15810, 6KOBT VC, CHN 752 ( i.imgur.com/BxvaH28.jpg ) Maybe you can tell me?
I think we need esaj to answer this, or someone more knowledgeable than me. But from what I can glean, it should be TO-263, which is basically the surface mounted version of TO-220...
Agreed! (and yes, saw your EUC post). I pulled a similar 15810 saying TO-220, but I get the feeling there are different varieties. Really wish I paid more attention when I was doing the teardown *smh
You have to take all that apart just to change the tire??? They should have made to the wheel/motor a cartridge....just unbolt and slip out.... Why the wheel/motor so heavy??? 13 kg 52% of total...
The indented design of the shell fitting into the motor/wheel assembly to offset the battery weight balance I believe doesn't allow any slipping out at all, unfortunately. Regarding the weight, I'm not sure why it's so heavy, but the general vibe of the internal components is a very well thought through, elegant, and dare I say over-engineered design, which is a departure from the wheel designs of EUC companies with lesser money, so I'm not that mad at the weight, as I'll be riding it more than lifting it!
houseofjob I would be lifting regularly, on to bus, and up/down a flight of stairs daily... Ok, what is the dimensions from rim to outter wheel diameter? Is it shallow or a 'normal' tire distance?
The tire sidewall is on the shallower side, but I don't have the demo Z any more on me and am awaiting eWheels.com pre-order fulfillment. FWIW, the inflated wheel I measured to be a true 18" diameter.
Thank you for this tear down. It reveals how much more engineering and refinement has gone into the z10 than compared to the Kingsong or Gotway wheels. I was thinking about purchasing the MSX, but this tear down makes me reconsider. I have purchased many products from xiaomi already, and have always found them high in quality and reasonably priced.
Sure thing.
Hopefully you've done your research, as there are few quirks to buying a Z10, as not all wheels are perfect.
Also note, Ninebot have themselves have hinted at the development of a "Z10 Pro" FWIW.
What xiaomi website to buy?
@@renzbriones8653 it' not really a XiaoMi proper categorized product, it's under Ninebot-Segway. Try AliExpress and searching for Ninebot Z10
@@houseofjob thank you.
@@houseofjob I went to aliexpress but there many seller. Which one you could recommend trusty.
OMG, I hope I never have to tear it down out of necessity. OH GOSH MAN. But it's nice to see it's well put together. Great vid.
Thanks!
Here's to hoping this thing never, ever gets flats! (at least when I get mine)
Marty puts slime in his. I think I will consider that after riding it for several weeks or months, just to see how the tires hold up under Boston conditions. Also I do plan on coming to New York with my V5F to experience New York before riding the Z10 in New York. It just seems there are so many places to ride in New York, not that Boston is small (well it is small) but yeah, New York seems vast.
For tubeless, you need to put tire sealant like Stans regardless, to seal the bead to the rim. I think there's a Slime for tubeless too.
Nice~ yes, NYC is very ideal for EUC, but I'd say the same for Boston too. As I went to school in Boston, me, +CitiWheel and another fellow rider friend did a weekend ride in Boston/Cambridge last year, and it was predictably great on EUC!
Hi Houseofjob.
Thanks for a great video, I'm about to undertake the task of changing the control board of my Z10 and your video is my best shot at succeeding 🙏😮
Good luck! It's gonna be a long day/night, I'd recommend periodic bathroom/snack breaks! 😄
Thank you for this video! Thanks to it I was able to dismantle the wheel after I hit the pothole and damaged the rim and tire. Now I will just need to play the video in reverse and put it back together. :)
Sure thing, that's what I made it for! Hope you get that Z back fixed up and running soon!
I hit a curb pretty hard and I damaged the rim, and now the motor makes a constant popping noise after about 10 minutes of riding, did yours do that?
Also, did you replace the whole motor and tire assembly?
*Clings to the screen*. I just want the z6, I don't care at all about the other z models. The second someone finally gets a z6, I'd LOVE to see a full review and long ride test.
FYI, per sources, the only difference between models is the battery densities (same number of cells) and the software restrictions that limit speed and power accordingly. The motor itself is the same across all models.
i might be on the z6 hypetrain too to save$, doubt ill ever be comfy going over 20mph
do i need to do the entire teardown of i need to change tires? also will just regular tires from a tire shop fit? or do i have to get a specific tire from ninebot?
Thanks!!! This video helps me to remove the battery in order to transport by air. BTW, the battery weights 11.6-11.8 lbs, not 11.4 lbs.
Glad this helped! .... and .2 lbs error can be different machine to machine, so.... meh.
Finally, I get my z10 in Auckland (NZ) now. Transported separately from China, wheel by air checked bag and battery pack by post. Hahahahahaha
Nice!
Intense. Glad you sped it up
Ha!, thanks!
Yeah, nobody needs to see all the unscrewing in real-time LOL
Good luck changing the inner tubes on this one... nice video!
Thanks!
But also, therein lies the beauty! It's tubeless!
You've been through hell unscrewing all of it and disconnecting cables. I hope the new versions of this could be less difficult most especially when your only goal is to change tire.
LOL, yes, I agree.
Hopefully, the tubeless tire can easily be stop-plugged, like it seems you can do for bicycle/car tubeless tires.
+snee There are simpler EUCs for tire changes, like InMotion or King Song, but yes, not as simple as eboards, or even ekick scooters.
But the one caveat with the Z is that it's tubeless and should be more durable than a tubed tire.
Even with the pain of tire/tube changes, the benefits in practicality over eboards is worth it IMHO (riding in the rain, not being limited by terrain, i.e. cobblestone, etc.)
stop-plugged is the work around... would like to see your bin set-up for organizing your screws upon disassembly. Its easy to put the wrong size of screw into a hole during reassembly and damage the hardware.
+James Thomas I see, good to know regarding stop-plugging! I didn't have anything intricate to keep the screws, just a generic plastic tray where I grouped like screws together.
Built Quality = A+ , Gotway Monster 100v = C-
LOL
That's why I preemptively sold my 84V Monster, waiting for a complete redesign top of 2019 *fingers crossed*
@@houseofjob I want the monster but the mess of a build throws me off. However I heard Z10 has a 10% failure rate with the motherboards? My v10 feels safest but I want a seated monster v3 so bad, just seems built like a tornado so Im holding off -_-
@@AuRowe I believe it's pick your poison; EUC is still an early adopter sport, if you may.
For me & the Monster, the troubles are worth it due to the quality of the ride, one you cannot find in any other EUC IMHO, albeit there is a bit of a learning curve, even coming from other wheels (arguably the most difficult wheel to master I think). Main issues with the Monster have always been the weak shell and warped shims over time. The recent v2 & v3 Monsters also seem to have changed parts origin, where the axle nut keeps loosening for myself & many local NYC riders, but I am experimenting with using Vibra-tite gel-based thread locker to hold the nut.
For the Z, yes, the board does seem to have a minority of issues with the occasional sensor that burns out on the board (I never experienced with my former Z). Also, if you don't manage the battery charging right, you can experience voltage imbalance when braking hard and/or many times over a trip due to regen. But the quirks of the Z ride, and the build quality are top notch IMHO.
In the end, I think you pick the wheel that has the issues you would be most comfortable mitigating the known issues with.
Oh shit I had no idea you tore it all the way down, nice dude.
LOL, thanks!
Well, I didn’t get down to a full split of the shell, or dive into the tire LEDs, so 85-90% all the way teardown haha
A whole new level of quality of EUCs. I hope they pursue and make faster wheels with better handling (not as wide tyres) as that would make me IMMEDIATELY buy a xiaomi wheel. Problem is they handle like crap and limits speed and why do low voltage when everyone else strives for 100V +.
BUT BUILD .. SECOND TO NONE... None of current manufacturers, Gotway (garage build LOL), Kingsong, InMotion, Veteran even comes close
Haha, I'm with you, but give Ninebot Some credit, this wheel is like year+ old now, and they're squeezing remarkable performance relatively speaking out of much much lower Voltage than their competitors FWIW.
I agree again, i was amazed when it came out. My friend outrolled my tesla with this on paper less performamcy wheel, both in range and top speed (might have been the same, dont quite remember). Amd ot felt super stable, like a tank compared to the twitchy tesla. Still
thank you, big help
Sure, no problem, thanks for your thanks!
Is there a full battery disassembly video and BMS extraction?
Sorry, no, I never did one (the other Z10 disassembled battery video is a re-post). Maybe you can gather more information via the ecoDrift teardown page? ecodrift.ru/2018/08/10/ninebot-z6-razbiraem-izmeryaem-i-vzveshivaem/
Adter watching this teardown, i would think that they would of gave this a higher waterproof rating. It looks like all the components are seales pretty good.
I never go by the IP rating of the EUC manufacturers; many are incorrectly rated (over-rated). It's better to pay attention to where the board and batteries of the wheel are located and prevent water exposure to those areas as much as possible, also minimizing time spent riding in heavy rain. In the end, there is no such thing as a waterproof wheel, as the wheel design needs to factor for overheating. All current solutions are a combination of multiple shell barriers, sometimes with gasket-type sealing or similar, then heat shrink wrap and/or enclosure for the battery, and silicone sealant coating for the board & exposed wire connecting ends.
I wonder how much water they can take in riding conditions ? Ive seen people ride that thing through some insane amounts of water.
@@malvodasnipa Not sure, but one of our riders had quite a bit of rain gurgle out of his Z a few days back when it rained it here in NYC, and this was from normal riding, not aiming for pools of water.
I have had to buy a replacement z10 motherboard but it will not work.. Do you know how to unlock the board please..?
Sorry, I've never had that problem with my first production-eWheels-bought Z10, but I know they posted something about it on the EUC forums, so I would search there. Also, if you can connect to it via bluetooth, there might be a way to 3rd party flash with the Ninetool, although that's a paid app (not 100% sure on this) forum.electricunicycle.org/forum/32-ninebot/
do i have to disassble the entire thing to just replace a tire? is there no shortcut eg... entire one side come off without tearing it all down?
The pedal arms of the motor/tire assembly are fully engulfed by the shell in a complete donut circle, so you need to split the shell at the lower half. This is why I noted in the video that the top headlight/handle portion, you can kind of cheat entirely unscrewing all those elements up top, just unscrewing the main foundation screws on one side, so you have enough wiggle room to wedge the protruding pedal arms away from the case. A pain, I know... I made the vid!
Hi i just received a ninebot for chrismas from my girlfriend and im super sad.. Is not charging.. I open it to check if the cables was disconnected on the battery but they are connected and even the red light of the battery is flashing but is not working.. I cant turn on my ninebot z10.. Can you help me?
If you purchased from a questionable dealer/source (eBay/GearBest, etc.) you might be facing the same issue these guys are having regarding overly-discharged Z batteries: forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/12027-brand-new-z10-not-charging/
Definitely your first course of action should be to contact the dealer.
Hello! This might be a stupid question but the led strip has a dead led, it is an easy job or do I have to take apart the whole wheel ?
I can't say for sure, but if you can't undo the plastic cover for the wheel LED from the outside, I'd say yes, you have to probably split the case probably.
houseofjob thank you for the reply !
Please do a tire change (minimal)! ;)
Maybe when I get a flat on my Z, *God forbid*
@@houseofjob Thanks in advance! I will buy my Z10 on 2019mai... :) I will follow you! :)
I would suspect if the tire does not get a flat, it's no different than a car tire. It probably could get 30,000 before needing replacement.
True, but I'll probably never get to that point, as I'm a constant wheel upgrader LOL
House-sama!! I crashed on my Z6, and the wheel's metallic rim is bent; scraping against the plastic when I trolley/ride. Is it possible to disassemble and send the wheel rim by itself to motorbike wheel refurbishers to straighten, or should I get a 16x?
Sorry, no, the rim of any EUC motor housing is all built-in together, so you can't just easily replace it unfortunately. This is why it's strongly recommended not to ride with the tire underinflated.
As for a 16X, that's completely up to you. I can tell you that I wouldn't say the Z and 16X are similar feels though.
I am facing similar situation, though the rim is not as bent that it is touching the case. Aftet few attempts with good old hammer and hitting the rim througj the piece of wood the rim is coming back to its previus shape. I believe a goood craftman in a tire/wheel repair should repair it.
Master House!! My bent rim was fixed yesterday - for free - by a generous mechanic! .....aaand I already ordered a 16x last week during a shut-in phase of depression. ƪ(˘⌣˘)ʃ
@@jacektrybusz1841 The mechanic that hammered at mine had to heat up the dented area to a very high temperature, because it cracked a tiny bit the first time he heated it to the temperature usually adequate for car rims.
@@TheseusMinor Ah, that's good! Hopefully it's a sturdy as the original rim, welded perhaps (?)
And yes, congrats on the 16X! Make sure to update to the latest firmware so you don't face all the power management issues riders are facing from not updating.
What are the screws sizes on the pedal column
If you're talking the ones that keep the pedal rod affixed, it's always 5mm for all EUCs.
Thank you for this vid, that's an interesting wheel with some unordinary engineering decisions made.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
Yes, the offset design to distribute the weight evenly has to be most intriguing!
I also am a fan of the non-solder motor wire connections, like how all high power machines (cars, etc) crimp, not solder, so no melting solder causing disconnects or shorts!
4:06 It would be nice to see someone rebuild the battery pack.
That way a video would be out there if and when these things starts having battery failures in a few years or simply just start getting weak.
Just search for ebike custom build battery video, it’s basically the same thing, just adjust to 14s for the Z
@@houseofjob Is the battery case pretty much just housing a shrink wrapped set of cells?
Or is the plastic case (battery) molded to hold each of the battery cells?
UPDATE
I actually found a video of someone pulling the battery cover off. Its not in English.
I'm not sure I would ever want to attempt tackling this.
@@Justin28082 Yes, I think I've found the video as well. PEVs must factor in constant shock, so none of the battery case designs directly contact the batteries, they are just an extra layer of protection. The batteries are always held together independently by shrink wrap and/or silicone, and with most of the official EUC manufacturer battery BMS's, the cells are spot welded to the BMS.
houseofjob can you send link to that video please.
@@piotrveltze czcams.com/video/GuDVJWICXl0/video.html
damn that thing is a tank!
Agreed!
what is the difference between the buzzer and the speaker?
I believe: the buzzer is for warnings (overspeed, overcurrent, etc.), whereas the speaker is what your bluetooth device (typically phone) will connect to, to play music, GPS, etc.
i just took the speaker cable out and it's not making any sound anymore, no warnings, I really wonder why the buzzer is there?
Hmmm... then I'm not sure, sorry.
Hi Chris ... my friend z10 Fell into a pool of water ... after that the gyro doesn’t work anymore ..
do u have any idea which parts he should replace ? The mos or the main board ?
Wow, sorry to hear. That's a really tricky thing since any electronics submerged in water becomes an issue due to the short circuit factor. You could try to borrow someone else's Z to A-B swap parts and see what's still good, but it would really need a painstaking process to open both motor and battery to really ensure there is no water still in there that can short something or rust and create high resistance ultimately leading to burnout. I'm inclined to say, if you're not a technical guy, I would cut my losses, strip for parts or sell as water-logged wheel, sorry.
houseofjob fortunately we have several z10 around here... maybe we could do some swapping ...
but that again ... do u have any idea which controls the self bAlancing? Tried searching the forum .. found no answer ... In case my friend decides to purchAse parts .. in your opinion which is a safer bet ? The main board or the mos board ?
@@futurespeed8694 I've seen plenty a waterlogged battery create fires via thermal runaway, so for me, that would be my biggest concern (not sure how well the battery is wrapped, but if this wheel was fully submerged, it's very likely water penetrated the battery cassette).
Self balancing on an EUC depends on a whole chain of things. From inside the motor where the motor wires connect to the stator is one. Then the cables run out the axle to the lower board. Then the board can have shorting issues. Lastly, the battery not powering things properly can also result in lack of balancing. Without A-B-ing it with another Z, you're just flying blind, there is no way to know what's wrong.
houseofjob make sense .. thanks chris ...
@@futurespeed8694 Best of luck.
thats some quality! :o i wish it was like this on all eucs
Me too!
Either that, or Ninebot just comes out with a bunch of other models, different diameter size and use cases!
right now im heading full speed for the msuper x, selling my tesla. and ordering an msx ;)
the tire is pretty wide on that one too.
Nice!
If there was no 22" Monster series, I might be tempted by the SuperX.
BTW, IMHO, even at 3" wide, the SuperX ride will be different from the Z, as I've owned and ridden the 2.75 wide (which stretches 3") Monster, and the Z required even more extreme hip movement, with even wider feet.
i think 3" is a good compromise between total hip and upper body movements and only using your feet and lower calf, its in a good medium. i tihkn if i can istall an extra 300wh in the msuper X then it will certainly be a little 19" mini monster! :D
Nice, I'm sure you will enjoy! (all said, I still think highly of the MSuper series, and am a tad intrigued admittedly)
gotway tesla is 24mm too
Maybe for V2 they've upgraded it now, but pretty sure the v1 (no V2 at the time of this filming) I've had to fix multiple times for a friend was the old 21mm standard
Will Xiaomi/Ninebot release another wheel You think? Wet dreams on 127V 80km/h 2KWh z20
Who knows! We all thought NB was dead back 3-4 years ago when they were recycling the 16" One IP into the 14" same spec series, then they dropped a surprise in this Z. I think EUC is last priority for the XiaoMi/Ninebot/Segway umbrella, so if they do drop a new wheel, it'll be awhile. And the new wheel I doubt will be high V, as they are stubborn with safety, as you can see by the Z10 being 14S, which is 1 cell down from their 15S 16" & 14" wheels.
@@houseofjob ah you mean they go lower voltage due to less risk for arcing?
But aren't the cells themselves the biggest risk? I'm thinking fire du to overheat, overcharge and so on.
Maybe it's time to buy a z10 and do a 100V project :-) new motor, different control board i guess. But on the other hand i don't think batteries would fit if aiming for 2KWh 100V
@@bigbadboogie6842 There's an old school belief that running things at higher voltage is less safe than running at lower voltage (think that's why the older US electricity system is running 120V household vs overseas is 240V(?)) But yeah, what you allude to, that lower V means you need to run higher A, is very true, which is why NB made the whole damn underbelly of the Z10 innershell a gigantor heatsink, which is awesome IMHO because most manufacturers skimp monumentually IMHO in this cooling area, especially as the power keeps increasing for these EUCs. I guess the cells themselves are stressed more, but I think that's less trivial, as there are plenty in parallel.
@@bigbadboogie6842 Problem with the awesome tailored design, is that it's not very conducive to DIY cuz everything is packed so perfectly in it's space.
Glad you included SMB2 theme too. How would you compare the acceleration of the Z10 to the MSX?
I'm pretty much sold on the Z10 even though it's 51V I agree with what you say. Just wondering though. In the vs NYC vid Tishawn said there's something stopping him from flooring it.
Thanks!
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to try the Z10 side by side with the MSX, but from memory, I'd say both accelerations are similar (need more force than most are used to), but in different ways.
The MSX is super stiff, even on soft mode, and can get a bit fatiguing on the feet, but once you apply some force to it, accelerates in a hurry.
The Z10 is the same way, but not nearly as stiff (on hard mode), and can be tuned to be more soft & swingy ala the OG MSuperV3 series. But same deal, hard force, and accelerates in a hurry, but without the foot fatigue (obviously up to a lower max speed than the MSX).
On the Tishawn ride, it was mainly that that was his first and only time riding the Z10, and he didn't want to break the unit or whatnot (same deal as the rest of us!). The Z10 had a small creak or sound to it that both him and I had experienced, but it happened only at speed and very infrequently. Towards the later part of the week riding the Z10, I never experienced it again.
Hey!
What about the pedal height? High enough for sharp turns? Is it easy to scratch them?
Thanks!
With the OG NB pedals, I didn’t think the pedals were too low whatsoever, and if I’m remembering correctly, I measured the height at 5”, which is not the highest (6”: V10F, KS18L), but perfectly fine in today’s EUC market. Also, you won’t really even be able to make the same sharp turns on the Z that you can easily do on the typical 2.125” wide EUC tire, obviously.
Thanks!
I don't know where to find a new motor?
So to change the tire I only need to remove everything on the board side? That tire plug didnt even last the night.😥
Oh damn. Yeah, the idea is to create enough wiggle room to wedge out the motor/tire without fully splitting the shell
MalvoDaMonsta stay at home with all this mess I don’t want nothing to do with it. It took me 30 mins to swap tire and be riding on msx lmaooo
@@electrocycle6560 I just put 2 plugs in while im at work. Seems to be holding for now. But Im about to order a tire.
@@malvodasnipa Relatively easy to tear it down using this helpful video to get to the wheel - as I had to last light after a bike shop owner mistakenly wrenched out the valve from the wheel while trying to pump up to the desired psi for my weight. Not all the wiring requires disconnection for getting to the motor - as I found out. Also helpful to have labelled trays for the screws as you dissemble it. Thanks houseofjob. Subscribed!
Nice! And thanks!
At 3:59 the battery sticker tells us that it has only 51,8V??? WHAT? I don’t get it. I thought it is an 80V wheel...
I’m not sure where you got the 80V idea from, but from the start at last year’s Ninebot Z unveiling in China, it was announced that the Z battery config would be 14S / 51.8V, similar voltage / configuration to every other wheel they’ve made so far (and also a source of confusion for many speculators who were saying the low voltage config of the Z leads to underpowering, which I can tell you from firsthand experience is simply not the case)
51V. In it's not serious .. I would buy now a wheel with only 84V no less ...
the look and quality of course awesome this wheel but the batteries are not weak modern .. I do not recommend to buy
That's your judgement (I used to have the same opinion before getting a chance to review the Z), but I've ridden and owned plenty of 84V EUC's, and this has power that is competitive with those.
Electrical engineer types will tell you that increasing EUC performance is not just simply increasing the voltage, it is more complicated than that. What is true is that increasing performance by increasing voltage IS EASIER and less costly for EUC companies with less R&D money than Ninebot/XiaoMi. But, with the Z, Ninebot has proven that you can keep the voltage low and invest more in handling hire currents to obtain relatively similar performance increases, ie. there are 2 ways to skin a cat here. Plus, with keeping voltages low, you run into less issues like the problems Gotway is having with their new 100V high voltage chargers not overheating to failure facebook.com/GranMathias/videos/2104370499636977/
you tell this information to the schoolboy
that 60V will not be worse than 84V
I had both of them ... first the battery capacity is very different and the starting currents too
if my friend at 84 Vcan develop the speed and hold it for a long time even on almost sat down batteries when I'm half the speed I develop before the warning signal ... + 60V charge discharge they strongly digress memory ..
buy only 84 V + and higher currents!
ummm... again, believe what you wanna believe.
The Ninebot Z is phenomenal performance being 14S / 51V, a must-buy for me personally.
I only believe what I actually experience for myself.
Mon pote
Can I use my Z10 battery in an other Z6?
I believe so. I'm almost 100% sure there is no such thing as a Z6 vs Z10 board or Z6 vs Z10 motor, so it all should just be interchangeable.
How can I replace the power button? I think there is water in
Sorry, I never got that far into the disassemble, couldn't tell you. But searching the EUC forums (forum.electricunicycle.org) or posting there would be a good start.
I did it today and all screws you have to remove are on the handle but there are two screws under the Side cover so I had to remove all three side covers on both sides. A lot of work and then just wiped the water of the button and power on/off worked again. The Button is not very waterproof.
@@milanfpv5099 Wow, yeah, maybe you should be trying to replace that power button then, electronics don't work the same in my experience once they've been exposed to water.
@@houseofjob I think it's fine but I'm a bit worried, imagine the wheel turning off while driving 45kmh...
@@milanfpv5099 That won't happen, as there are safeties against that going above a certain speed threshold for all EUC (don't remember what exact speed, but it's something like 5-10kph)
Those MOS are they 220s or 247s?
Not an expert here.
Blowing up the pics, they are demarcated (if I'm reading correctly): 15810, 6KOBT VC, CHN 752 ( i.imgur.com/BxvaH28.jpg )
Maybe you can tell me?
I think we need esaj to answer this, or someone more knowledgeable than me. But from what I can glean, it should be TO-263, which is basically the surface mounted version of TO-220...
Agreed! (and yes, saw your EUC post).
I pulled a similar 15810 saying TO-220, but I get the feeling there are different varieties.
Really wish I paid more attention when I was doing the teardown *smh
Battery 5.17 kg, tire/motor 13 kg
You have to take all that apart just to change the tire??? They should have made to the wheel/motor a cartridge....just unbolt and slip out.... Why the wheel/motor so heavy??? 13 kg 52% of total...
The indented design of the shell fitting into the motor/wheel assembly to offset the battery weight balance I believe doesn't allow any slipping out at all, unfortunately.
Regarding the weight, I'm not sure why it's so heavy, but the general vibe of the internal components is a very well thought through, elegant, and dare I say over-engineered design, which is a departure from the wheel designs of EUC companies with lesser money, so I'm not that mad at the weight, as I'll be riding it more than lifting it!
houseofjob I would be lifting regularly, on to bus, and up/down a flight of stairs daily...
Ok, what is the dimensions from rim to outter wheel diameter? Is it shallow or a 'normal' tire distance?
The tire sidewall is on the shallower side, but I don't have the demo Z any more on me and am awaiting eWheels.com pre-order fulfillment. FWIW, the inflated wheel I measured to be a true 18" diameter.