Hey DIY Team! I was very surprised by these result! I placed timestamps below👇 to help you navigate the video. Enjoy! Test wall setup 00:55 EZ Ancor 50 LB rated test 01:37 Toggler Drywall Anchor 65 LB rated test 02:57 Project Source Toggle Bolt 90 LB rated test 04:28 EZ Ancor Drywall Toggle Anchor 100 LB rated test 06:44 Toggler Drywall Anchor 143 LB rated test 08:04 Toggler Toggle Bolt 238 LB rated test 10:45
The snap toggles are fantastic. I use them at work all the time to hang speakers, soundbars and TV's mounted to metal studs. I also use them to support TVs if I can only hit one stud, wood or metal. I still wouldn't solely rely on them for tv's without studs, though.
I can understand that Ryan. There is no way I would hang a TV on a drywall anchor. Way too risky and seems to cause a dangerous situation if you are not careful. Thanks for watching!
I run the machines that attaches the plastic straps and hat on the Toggler Brand Snap toggle , I never had an opportunity to test them. Always thought that much weight being held in dry wall was impressive. The engineer that did the weight test would surly find some fault in the way this guy tested it. Lol! Not sure how I would ever trust dry wall to hold 238lbs with out at least a fixture attached to a stud. Good video.
Thanks a cool job you got! Yes I would definitely not trust that much weight to be held by the drywall anyway you look at it. Thanks for watching Rick!
Snaptoggle box indicates “Industry standards recommend 1/4 of ultimate test load.” As indicated on the video, it is the drywall that failed not the anchor. I mounted a 90lb TV using 8 Snaptoggle without studs no issues.
Absolutely fantastic video Josh. This will definitely help so many people who have never took this into consideration if a stud is not available under the drywall. One other thing to think about for some others watching is a case with plaster with the old wood lathe. Thank you again for a great video.
Thank you David! I would be curious to try these in a plaster wall. I’m sure the wood lathe is stronger than drywall. I do like testing products like this. The results are always interesting. Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer one thing people have to realize on wood lathe plaster walls is, the more tapping or hammering, it causes the plaster that seeps through the wood, falls off and the surface can come off. When rock lathe came out, this resolved this issue then of course drywall.
@@TheExcellentLaborer I have, Works fine. If anything better because it has the wood to grab and the plaster is more "rock like" in comparison to modern drywall
I would think the constant moving of the bar while adding weights added to the failure. Most situations would be hang heavy object and don't move it. But great video
Thanks a lot! Yeah maybe that would be a different resort. I’m not sure. I just know if I was going to use that much weight and real life I would turn it the way I did in the video. Thanks for watching!
My rule of thumb (and I may be wrong but have mounted tvs for 5 years and one has never come down) You always use studs first however if you cannot 4 140lb toggle bolts on a fixed or advanced tilt mount is fine but full motion mounts require studs. I weigh 170 and always hang on the mount before I put up the tv as well.
I have used all of those wall anchors over many years as a carpenter and handyman. The first two you showed are usually my go to anchors. However, the testing is far from scientific but it does represent true world usage and the way most homeowners would apply the anchors. Personally, when the load approaches 90 pounds I would certainly be nervous trusting any one of these anchors when you are basically relying on only half inch drywall. When you approach more than 100 lbs. I would rather see plywood backing or wood blocking in the wall. I noticed on the back of the package of the anchor that failed, the picture shows the bulk of the weight placed close to the wall. Perhaps the anchor began to bend allowing the weight to move away from the wall and that allowed the anchor to break through the drywall. That bracket may not have been rated for that much weight.
I agree with you Preston. This was a good real world test and I would definitely not use that much weight in real life with these little anchors. You cannot replace a anchor in a stud with these. This testing in the video was far from scientific but is relatable to most peoples experience. Thanks for your input!
The rated weight is the ultimate load that the anchor is rated for. However, the industry standards usually recommend to use only 0.25% of the ultimate load capacity. So, if the anchor is rated for 100#, then we should use this anchor for 25# actual weight. Keep in mind that the item weight will result in a combination of tension, shear and bending moment forces. These forces will be generated based on how the item is being supported and they are factor of the item weight, projection length, item height, location of item center of gravity, etc. So, to be safe divide the anchor rating by 4 to determine the maximum weight that ONE anchor should handle regardless of the load distribution, drywall age, etc.
Thanks, this video is very usefull, it would be awsome if you could try to install the last one horizontally instead of vertically, to see if the drywall can hold up the 238lbs that way
The way you tested the 238# exerted torque on the anchor structure making it to break the drywall panel. I know the method to test such a big weight would be difficult by just hanging it with a rope but it is not really fair the result you achieved
I did a real world test. I feel like an average person would not care about anything else other than what it can do in the real world. Thanks for your input!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I have to agree with you on that. As a matter of fact, I would never consider hanging such a weight on a single screw but, I understand, average homeowner may be misled to do it
Yes that’s exactly what I’m saying. Maybe the labels should make that more obvious 🤷♂️. Then again the ones rated under 100 pounds did what the labels said. So it’s an interesting argument.
I use those first ones a lot. I do irrigation and use it to install my controllers which weights like 5 pounds tops. I wouldn't use it to hang my TV tho 😁. Great chanel content Sir. I have learned a lot on your house construction videos. 🙂
cool -- great video as all~ways! -- and yeah,. it looks like you're having too much fun with these pseudo-life product tests!! LoL (I always get a kick out of hearing sentences that start with "All ya got to do is..." (lol)) -- So yeah,. I use similar anchors, but focusing namely on the last one (aka snap-toggles) for grab bars with no trouble. Two notes here: #1. There are three screws on grab bars with multiple off-set points are being anchored and not in tandem. (yeah, structure in itself is an interesting concept to be sure) #2. Using a similar anchor (the Hillman brand of snap toggle w/ similar but different load capacity) on grab bars where *the holes are not in tandem* and hitting the heavier torque side anchored with at least one of them into a stud I never had any issues that I am aware of and they always pass my 265 pound "meatball test" to be able to swing off it! Recently, I installed a tv bracket that had three *vertical* points three points of contact -- Notably they were in tandem where I wound up with a 3-4" pop in the drywall at the bottom anchor -- Very similar to yours - but not a complete failure. That particular tv bracket itself had a high amount of resistance when tilting the tv in the vertical directions -- unless you used two hands to adjust the tilt - one on top and bottom of tv while elevating the tv in an upward direction to relieve the weight from the tilting point prior to adjust it. My analysis of that was to: Either avoid the slender in-tandem 3-hole mounts on fully articulating tv brackets by getting one with a larger, square wall base plate with 4 holes rather than 3; and/ or open up the drywall and drop some dimensional lumber between the studs behind the drywall for backing (and of course follow up with the necessary drywall repair and refinish work). For the latter --> Just do not forget to pre-drill the holes in the dimensional lumbar prior to fastening it to avoid the inevitable splitting. At the end of the day, and again -- with too many grab bars to count being installed -- I can swing my 265 lb meatball test on any grab bar I have installed due to two reasons: #1 I typically to hit the most likely torqued side onto the stud when possible and #2 while it is the same number of holes on a grab bar, *they are not in tandem* - very important note on that is to be aware of how the backing brackets of those anchors are aligned behind the drywall. I remain. Ck Maintenance, Sch'dy NY
not surprised. i only use anchors to supplement when i can't get into studs, never as the sole support for heavy objects. most things i hang using anchors only have 4 mounting holes anyways, and never weigh hundreds of pounds. this all pertains to drywall of course
I love the snap toggles. I can’t believe that one is rated for 200# though. I use 1/4” ones but I thought they were rated at 100# or maybe 125#. They’ll hold 200 and up in cinder block or metal studs. Recently I had to hang a 20 gal water heater. The builder was supposed to put in blocking but didn’t. I wanted to get at least one toggle into a metal stud but I could do that because the small space I had didn’t leave me room to move it. So I figured 4 anchors is 400#. The pan and empty heater weigh maybe 60-80 and 20 gal of water is 160#. It held fine. I guess I’ll find out how it hold long term. I guess worse case I can always just screw some boards on the studs and mount to it. I keep a rubber mallet in my van. It’s so I can hammer on different pipe materials without damaging them. I also have it when I’m putting in a bunch of sleeve anchors. Yet I still find myself using my drill as a hammer same as you. Though I use the bottom of the battery
Good information. Perhaps the last bracket should’ve been upwards a bit to eliminate the rope pulling forward. I feel that anything beyond about 25 lbs should be in a stud.
I would say that’s not a bad idea. Anything above 25 pounds would be safer in wood. I was actually surprised they held what they held. Thanks for watching Parts Dave!
I would love to see if that last toggle the 238lbs can hold if you had 2 or more toggles I want to put up an 85” tv on a swivel tv mount but have no studs to hold please help Thank you
If you want the strongest wall anchors use Wing-Its brand... I use them for all my grab bar installations. They also make other ones that are not specific for grab bars and are for other types of installations. Would like you do a comparison using these.
Hey DIY Team! I was very surprised by these result! I placed timestamps below👇 to help you navigate the video. Enjoy!
Test wall setup 00:55
EZ Ancor 50 LB rated test 01:37
Toggler Drywall Anchor 65 LB rated test 02:57
Project Source Toggle Bolt 90 LB rated test 04:28
EZ Ancor Drywall Toggle Anchor 100 LB rated test 06:44
Toggler Drywall Anchor 143 LB rated test 08:04
Toggler Toggle Bolt 238 LB rated test 10:45
The snap toggles are fantastic. I use them at work all the time to hang speakers, soundbars and TV's mounted to metal studs. I also use them to support TVs if I can only hit one stud, wood or metal. I still wouldn't solely rely on them for tv's without studs, though.
I can understand that Ryan. There is no way I would hang a TV on a drywall anchor. Way too risky and seems to cause a dangerous situation if you are not careful. Thanks for watching!
Your videos have become recently on my top watch list. Thank you so much for your efforts!
I run the machines that attaches the plastic straps and hat on the Toggler Brand Snap toggle , I never had an opportunity to test them. Always thought that much weight being held in dry wall was impressive. The engineer that did the weight test would surly find some fault in the way this guy tested it. Lol! Not sure how I would ever trust dry wall to hold 238lbs with out at least a fixture attached to a stud. Good video.
Thanks a cool job you got! Yes I would definitely not trust that much weight to be held by the drywall anyway you look at it. Thanks for watching Rick!
You're putting the work man, you deserve way more subs and views. Nice work
I did put in some time to make this video. I’m glad you recognize that. Thanks a lot for watching James. Stay tuned for more!
Snaptoggle box indicates “Industry standards recommend 1/4 of ultimate test load.” As indicated on the video, it is the drywall that failed not the anchor. I mounted a 90lb TV using 8 Snaptoggle without studs no issues.
Absolutely fantastic video Josh. This will definitely help so many people who have never took this into consideration if a stud is not available under the drywall. One other thing to think about for some others watching is a case with plaster with the old wood lathe. Thank you again for a great video.
Thank you David! I would be curious to try these in a plaster wall. I’m sure the wood lathe is stronger than drywall. I do like testing products like this. The results are always interesting. Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer one thing people have to realize on wood lathe plaster walls is, the more tapping or hammering, it causes the plaster that seeps through the wood, falls off and the surface can come off. When rock lathe came out, this resolved this issue then of course drywall.
@@TheExcellentLaborer I have, Works fine. If anything better because it has the wood to grab and the plaster is more "rock like" in comparison to modern drywall
I would think the constant moving of the bar while adding weights added to the failure. Most situations would be hang heavy object and don't move it. But great video
Great video! Very informative!!
Maybe next time try turning the bracket upside down and see if the product claims are true.
Thanks a lot! Yeah maybe that would be a different resort. I’m not sure. I just know if I was going to use that much weight and real life I would turn it the way I did in the video. Thanks for watching!
My rule of thumb (and I may be wrong but have mounted tvs for 5 years and one has never come down) You always use studs first however if you cannot 4 140lb toggle bolts on a fixed or advanced tilt mount is fine but full motion mounts require studs. I weigh 170 and always hang on the mount before I put up the tv as well.
Maybe leverage trying to push down while putting on the weights might have over rated the anchors……..?
on the last one I would call it that the drywall failed
It would be interesting to see these anchors installed with weight on them for some actual duration as to simulate an actual application.
Oh yeah the time test would be a good idea. Thanks for your input Grant!
Yep, everyone of these anchor videos ive watched ive always thought the same thing. Need to know if they fail after a period of time or not
I have used all of those wall anchors over many years as a carpenter and handyman. The first two you showed are usually my go to anchors. However, the testing is far from scientific but it does represent true world usage and the way most homeowners would apply the anchors. Personally, when the load approaches 90 pounds I would certainly be nervous trusting any one of these anchors when you are basically relying on only half inch drywall. When you approach more than 100 lbs. I would rather see plywood backing or wood blocking in the wall. I noticed on the back of the package of the anchor that failed, the picture shows the bulk of the weight placed close to the wall. Perhaps the anchor began to bend allowing the weight to move away from the wall and that allowed the anchor to break through the drywall. That bracket may not have been rated for that much weight.
I agree with you Preston. This was a good real world test and I would definitely not use that much weight in real life with these little anchors. You cannot replace a anchor in a stud with these. This testing in the video was far from scientific but is relatable to most peoples experience. Thanks for your input!
The rated weight is the ultimate load that the anchor is rated for. However, the industry standards usually recommend to use only 0.25% of the ultimate load capacity. So, if the anchor is rated for 100#, then we should use this anchor for 25# actual weight. Keep in mind that the item weight will result in a combination of tension, shear and bending moment forces. These forces will be generated based on how the item is being supported and they are factor of the item weight, projection length, item height, location of item center of gravity, etc. So, to be safe divide the anchor rating by 4 to determine the maximum weight that ONE anchor should handle regardless of the load distribution, drywall age, etc.
I hope you mean 25% and not 0.25%! 😆
@@cam-wayt2767 it's using # for lbs so yea, it doesn't know what it's saying
Thanks, this video is very usefull, it would be awsome if you could try to install the last one horizontally instead of vertically, to see if the drywall can hold up the 238lbs that way
I’m glad you found this video helpful. It is surprising how much weight those hangers can hold. Thanks for watching!
The way you tested the 238# exerted torque on the anchor structure making it to break the drywall panel. I know the method to test such a big weight would be difficult by just hanging it with a rope but it is not really fair the result you achieved
I did a real world test. I feel like an average person would not care about anything else other than what it can do in the real world. Thanks for your input!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I have to agree with you on that. As a matter of fact, I would never consider hanging such a weight on a single screw but, I understand, average homeowner may be misled to do it
Yes that’s exactly what I’m saying. Maybe the labels should make that more obvious 🤷♂️. Then again the ones rated under 100 pounds did what the labels said. So it’s an interesting argument.
@@TheExcellentLaborer it is all because of the concept of torque, i’m an engineer.
I use those first ones a lot. I do irrigation and use it to install my controllers which weights like 5 pounds tops. I wouldn't use it to hang my TV tho 😁. Great chanel content Sir. I have learned a lot on your house construction videos. 🙂
cool -- great video as all~ways! -- and yeah,. it looks like you're having too much fun with these pseudo-life product tests!! LoL
(I always get a kick out of hearing sentences that start with "All ya got to do is..." (lol))
-- So yeah,. I use similar anchors, but focusing namely on the last one (aka snap-toggles) for grab bars with no trouble.
Two notes here:
#1. There are three screws on grab bars with multiple off-set points are being anchored and not in tandem. (yeah, structure in itself is an interesting concept to be sure)
#2. Using a similar anchor (the Hillman brand of snap toggle w/ similar but different load capacity) on grab bars where *the holes are not in tandem* and hitting the heavier torque side anchored with at least one of them into a stud I never had any issues that I am aware of and they always pass my 265 pound "meatball test" to be able to swing off it!
Recently, I installed a tv bracket that had three *vertical* points three points of contact -- Notably they were in tandem where I wound up with a 3-4" pop in the drywall at the bottom anchor -- Very similar to yours - but not a complete failure.
That particular tv bracket itself had a high amount of resistance when tilting the tv in the vertical directions -- unless you used two hands to adjust the tilt - one on top and bottom of tv while elevating the tv in an upward direction to relieve the weight from the tilting point prior to adjust it.
My analysis of that was to: Either avoid the slender in-tandem 3-hole mounts on fully articulating tv brackets by getting one with a larger, square wall base plate with 4 holes rather than 3; and/ or open up the drywall and drop some dimensional lumber between the studs behind the drywall for backing (and of course follow up with the necessary drywall repair and refinish work). For the latter --> Just do not forget to pre-drill the holes in the dimensional lumbar prior to fastening it to avoid the inevitable splitting.
At the end of the day, and again -- with too many grab bars to count being installed -- I can swing my 265 lb meatball test on any grab bar I have installed due to two reasons:
#1 I typically to hit the most likely torqued side onto the stud when possible
and
#2 while it is the same number of holes on a grab bar, *they are not in tandem* - very important note on that is to be aware of how the backing brackets of those anchors are aligned behind the drywall.
I remain.
Ck Maintenance, Sch'dy NY
Wow this was a detailed comment! I have never heard of the meatball test. I will have to do more research on that. Thanks for watching!
not surprised. i only use anchors to supplement when i can't get into studs, never as the sole support for heavy objects. most things i hang using anchors only have 4 mounting holes anyways, and never weigh hundreds of pounds. this all pertains to drywall of course
Yeah that makes perfect sense. Hitting a wood stud is definitely the best option. Thanks for watching!
Hiiii🙋 thank you for your input. Will know which one to buy awesome video thank you for sharing👍👍😎
Hey Vee Gee! I was amazed at how strong some is these anchors were. Thanks a lot for your awesome comment!
You also didn’t put all the screws in. I would like to see if you have them all screwed in if it works.
Nice way to exercise and inform
Lol. Nice job buddy
That’s right. Two birds with one stone! Lol. Thanks for watching Tim!
Nice video thanks , for the demo . enjoying them a lot keep them coming .
Thanks Robert! I do like testing products like this. The results are very interesting. I appreciate you stopping by!
Awesome test, Thank you
Thanks a lot Michael! Stay tuned!
You sound a lot like project farm. Great content my dude
is it the drywall failing or the anchor????
Looks like they all hold heavy picture frames. How does it rate with pulling force of a shelf?
I love the snap toggles. I can’t believe that one is rated for 200# though. I use 1/4” ones but I thought they were rated at 100# or maybe 125#. They’ll hold 200 and up in cinder block or metal studs. Recently I had to hang a 20 gal water heater. The builder was supposed to put in blocking but didn’t. I wanted to get at least one toggle into a metal stud but I could do that because the small space I had didn’t leave me room to move it. So I figured 4 anchors is 400#. The pan and empty heater weigh maybe 60-80 and 20 gal of water is 160#. It held fine. I guess I’ll find out how it hold long term. I guess worse case I can always just screw some boards on the studs and mount to it.
I keep a rubber mallet in my van. It’s so I can hammer on different pipe materials without damaging them. I also have it when I’m putting in a bunch of sleeve anchors. Yet I still find myself using my drill as a hammer same as you. Though I use the bottom of the battery
hey!! how has it been holding up?
Can this be used in the wall panels used in Modular homes?
Maybe,,,,for fixing it's tires
Those anchors are not supposed to carry torque, just weight
100% shear stress is what they rate them at evidently.
Anyone who hangs over 200lbs, at a single point, on half inch drywall is nuts. Even if it's anchored directly to a wall stud. No way!!
I would not hang that much weight with an anchor either. Thanks for watching!
Good information. Perhaps the last bracket should’ve been upwards a bit to eliminate the rope pulling forward.
I feel that anything beyond about 25 lbs should be in a stud.
I would say that’s not a bad idea. Anything above 25 pounds would be safer in wood. I was actually surprised they held what they held. Thanks for watching Parts Dave!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I agree!
Would love some roofing videos from u
I will be doing a roofing video when I do the garage. Thanks for watching!
Very informative. Thanks 👍🏽
I been wanting to do this test for a while. I was surprised the anchors held what they held to begin with. Thanks for watching!
I think you need it to put to anchor on the L shape metal one on top one in the bottom I think that equals that 238 Lbs .
Fail on 235 you had one bolt should have had two of those should I use both of them from the pack redo
Hi. What if you have a drywall and a half inch pressed wood plate behind and 3 horizontal togglers, you think it can hold a 65 inch tv from 60 lbs?
what do you think of people hanging heavy tvs with anchors and not studs?
There is no way I would use drywall anchors to mount a TV. I would anchor into a stud. Hope that helps!
Like button smashed.
You are awesome Roger! Thank you!
What would you use to anchor a squat rack on the garage drywall?
I would love to see if that last toggle the 238lbs can hold if you had 2 or more toggles I want to put up an 85” tv on a swivel tv mount but have no studs to hold please help Thank you
Awesome!! Perfect Explain and demonstration!! congrats!!!
Thanks for the comment 💪🏻
Great demonstration Josh, have a great day 👍🏻
Thank you! I been wanting to do this test for a while. I’m glad I finally found time to do it. I’m glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Thought I was watching project farm for a second there 😝
If you want the strongest wall anchors use Wing-Its brand... I use them for all my grab bar installations. They also make other ones that are not specific for grab bars and are for other types of installations. Would like you do a comparison using these.
Thanks for your idea Scott! I will definitely look into doing a video comparing those. Thanks for watching!
You should have put weight on them until they failed to see where they failed
Damn the content I need 🎉
I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Idk Josh, seems like to me that would open them up to a lawsuit🤷♂️
Evidently the way they test them in a testing center must be different than how are tested them. Hard to tell. Thanks for watching Silver Grizzly!
Not accurate / sientific way to test the anchors.
👍it's all about building your own house and saving a ton of money 💰
That is correct! Thanks for watching!
I was the 69th like 👍
Close the first! Lol Thanks for watching Carter!