There are two sensor one for the top hose radiator and the other on the lower hoses just follow it, it lead u to the thermostat housing where it is the other in the engine block . I think the one senor people r looking 4 is the lower one which go back to the radiator to cool down and switch the fan on.
If this sensor is out of calibration could it cause fast idle speed to be too high or low? 96 Honda Civic EX A/T too high fast idle speed. Believe it or not the Honda service manual doesn't say.
I am have to replace the Coolant Temperature Temp Sensor Plug Wire Pigtail it has one green and one black. the Aftermarket has one red one black. which one goes to which ?
Would the ECT sensor dictate the thermostat temperature? I've been stumped Fan will not come on almost 3/4 to the red at times 2 lines from the red won't kick on the coolant fan, only time the coolant fan cycles on and off is when the heater is on, this is not normal?Only time it would work is when I turn the a/c on which manually turns both fans on condesner and coolant fan, both fans are new, radiator new, new rad cap, fresh coolant new water pump, new thermostat, head gasket seems OK no signs no bubbles or milky color or smell from exhaust or any coolant in oil mixed, so is this a failing ect sensor? Its a 05 Honda civic so most of the failing parts are intermittent, never just die. Quality Parts are Napa also OE and "new" to a year old. Condenser fan, water pump, thermostat is new and rad/coolant fan radiator and rest is about a year old it works and kicks on, just (not) when it gets hot. Please help.
Sounds like the radiator cooling fan switch, located on the water jacket where the thermostat is located. If both cooling fans operate when the A/C is turned on, this switch is likely the issue. It has a large 23 mm hex head and it's below where the grounds are bolted to the water jacket. You can make sure the relay and fan is operational by turning the key to on without starting the engine. then take a jump wire or paper clip and touch the two terminals together on the connector after disconnecting it from the sensor. The relay can also be faulty and prevent the fan from operating, so do the check above and turn on the AC and make sure both fans are turning. BTW, if the system is leaking from anywhere, this MUST be repaired first for these sensors to work (or at least obsessively topped off each driving cycle, but not recommended for large leaks). The sensors rely on coolant being in the spaces they occupy, so if the coolant is low, they will not operate correctly or not at all without the coolant topped off and system bled.
@@Slingersbullseye What led you to suspect the head gasket? The process of elimination? Was the car overheated at anytime before all these problems started? I suspect my roommates CR-V may have a blown head gasket (or beginnings of one), but it has none of the classic signs, like oil and gas mixing, white smoke, missing, etc.. It has temperature fluctuations and disappearing coolant (maybe a half-pint at a time) without any signs of leaking on the driveway or in the car below the heater core.
Had one of these snap on me today in the head (d16y8 engine) used an easy out to get it back out. Dont go 16fp more like 13fp 12fp or 10fp with lock tight
@@phoenixtiger101tube used wire cutters.. my heart dropped and started racing when it first happened.. and cussed the Heavens. LMFAOOOOOO, and almost fell on my ass when I got it out. 👍🏻
Because you replaced the wrong sensor. This sensor is the coolant temperature sensor, which only sends data to the car’s ECU. If your dashboard gauge is malfunctioning, you need to replace the ECT gauge sending unit, which is right next to the part replaced in the video, but does something completely different.
appleintosh do you know where I can find this?? I’ve been typing “ECT Gauge sending unit” everywhere and only find ect sensors not the ones for the gauge
It should not be necessary to put thread sealer on these. what you want to remember to do is put the o-ring on the sensor before installing it (didn't see one on this replacement). And don't tighten it too much, just 17 ft-lb....
@Dano C. - Awesome / Good tips! Thread Sealer would melt through time. Should have used High Silicone Heat Sealant, that would work. I also agreed with the " O'Ring " on the Sensor as well. That O'Ring should be " Copper " so it can be easily removed later. But I agree with you 100% !!!
@@Xavier_Performance_TuningIt would probably leak without it... I would take it out and check your o-ring. If it is still pliable (soft), I would re-torque it to the 17 ft-lb which isn't very tight. If the o-ring crushed, you either tightened it too tight or if it is an old o-ring, it lost it's pliability (softness) and needs to be replaced. You should really use one. If you can't get the exact o-ring, go to an auto parts store. They usually sell assorted sizes then just try one that fits the best...
i just got a 93’ lx sedan and it’s over heating bc the fans aren’t turning on. but the radiator fan is also pushing against the fan shroud so idk if that would be the reason too
Check the temp switch by the thermostat. If thats not it check the fuses. Ultimately if its not the that. Check the motors to the fan. Or be a ricer and add a switch and by pass everything for the fan.
Nada nomas es un sensor de computadora, no le ase efecto al motor, pero si se prende la luz del check engine porque es un sensor que no está trabajando
Would this sensor make the car just die randomly...... Then wait 5 to 10 minutes and it starts and runs fine???? No error codes......have replace fuel pump and filters, ignition control module, distributor cap, new wires, .......so I read this temp sensor could cause this??
+Vagio Guzman - Rough Idling / Rough Cold Start are caused by 2 things that I know. Either the Throttle Body / Plate needs Cleaning or Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). Here is how you do it if it's IACV. Use a OBD-2 Scanner.... Get the Code, quicker diagnostic... If NO.... Use the easy methods below :)))) No OBD-2 Scanner ??? Here is another " EASY " way to TEST it to see if your IACV not working? :). Turn on your Car.... Wait until Engine warm up to Normal Operating Temperature, once the Car is Surging Up / Down.... 1. Go to the IACV connector and disconnect it. If Idle is back to " Normal ", IACV is bad and you need to replace it. 2. If you are at " Night ", if your Headlights is on.... Engine Surging Up / Down.... Shut off your Headlights... Engine back to " Normal ", IACV is bad and you need to replace it. :)))))))
@@JodBronson a bad engine temp sensor will cause rough idle/cold start. The computer determines fuel/air ratio partly based on engine temp. The mixture has to be rich for a cold engine. If the temp sensor is off likely the fuel delivery is off as well.
@@gfriedman99 - I agree with you 100%. I actually made a Video about this in my Channel. I also showed how to " By-Pass " temporary until you get a new one. CZcams Search Term: Bypass ECT Coolant Temperature Sensor Sending Unit + Paper Clip Resistor P0128 Car Truck S10
Epic Garage can the temperature sensor being bad cause car to over heat at idle.i just did the head gasket with a buddy of mine.and I believe that the sensor that snapped when putting back to head of the engine.how much would this cost to fix
+david henriquez - If overheating... It could be your Thermostat not " Opening " :/// Check the Fan to see if the Fan come on correctly during your " Overheating ". If the Fan is " ON " during overheating. Then your Thermostat might be stuck :///. Thermostat is really cheap, you can do it by yourself, not hard. I would try diagnostic first. If you live in a Warm / Hot Climate... You can actually Bypass the Thermostat and NEVER worrying about overheating again !!!
Fuck the mechanic charge me 100$ to do it. I be replace it yesterday and drove it for twenty minutes the gauge is still not steady I mean goes up slowly and sometimes goes back down I’m not sure if a new sensor would take more time or it should be perfect since day one??? Thanks for the video
+Pretty Sure - I don't think he knows what that is... LOL. Cause if he did he won't be asking that question in the first place, LOL. Give him 5-10 years from now, maybe he will learn a thing or two. Hopefully sooner, cause Time can be your Friend or Enemy, LOL
Looks like he needs to replace the o-ring on the distributor or possibly valve cover. if it's that o-ring on the distributor, leaving oil on that hose right below it, will eat it and cause it to burst in time.
@@craigorlikowski2507 Exactly. Probably too late for the hose at this point its a goner. As long as you have the distributor out might as well replace that hose.
RANDY REDDICK Me too, I ordered fan switch from eBay,I removed the FAN SWITCH thinking it was the COOLANT SENSOR,I tried to replace but didn't fit. Got very pissed and messaged the seller with both photos. He told me that in my photo was "a fan switch" and I "bought coolant switch".
The part he is replacing is called: water temperature sensor assembly. #13 on the Honda dealership websites. The exact wording is: sensor assy, water temperature. 96-00 Civic part # is: 37870-PJ7-003.
I just used your video as a guide to replace mine, worked like a champ. Thank you very much!
The sensor between the ECT sensor and the thermostat housing ( fan switch ), is the drivers cluster temp gage sensor
Looks easy enough gonna be replacing mine today
There are two sensor one for the top hose radiator and the other on the lower hoses just follow it, it lead u to the thermostat housing where it is the other in the engine block . I think the one senor people r looking 4 is the lower one which go back to the radiator to cool down and switch the fan on.
The fan sensor ( switch ) is on the thermost housing. Not the ECT sensor.
My temperature cluster just stopped working .
Thank you looks easy I have to change my.
If this sensor is out of calibration could it cause fast idle speed to be too high or low? 96 Honda Civic EX A/T too high fast idle speed. Believe it or not the Honda service manual doesn't say.
Have a quick question theres a ground wire close to that senor do you know where it connects to?
Where can i get one if those pic tail connections? My only has two wires connecting to the sensor.
Can you tell me . What are the symptoms of bad ect sensor ?
I am have to replace the Coolant Temperature Temp Sensor Plug Wire Pigtail it has one green and one black. the Aftermarket has one red one black. which one goes to which ?
Where you buy it the temperature sensor got one ebay oem coming bad parts thank you video
Is this the same as the TW Sensor? What is this one called ECT?
Would the ECT sensor dictate the thermostat temperature? I've been stumped Fan will not come on almost 3/4 to the red at times 2 lines from the red won't kick on the coolant fan, only time the coolant fan cycles on and off is when the heater is on, this is not normal?Only time it would work is when I turn the a/c on which manually turns both fans on condesner and coolant fan, both fans are new, radiator new, new rad cap, fresh coolant new water pump, new thermostat, head gasket seems OK no signs no bubbles or milky color or smell from exhaust or any coolant in oil mixed, so is this a failing ect sensor? Its a 05 Honda civic so most of the failing parts are intermittent, never just die.
Quality Parts are Napa also OE and "new" to a year old. Condenser fan, water pump, thermostat is new and rad/coolant fan radiator and rest is about a year old it works and kicks on, just (not) when it gets hot. Please help.
+Robert Mrbena Mrbena - Sounds like your ECT Sensor is bad :///
Sounds like the radiator cooling fan switch, located on the water jacket where the thermostat is located. If both cooling fans operate when the A/C is turned on, this switch is likely the issue. It has a large 23 mm hex head and it's below where the grounds are bolted to the water jacket. You can make sure the relay and fan is operational by turning the key to on without starting the engine. then take a jump wire or paper clip and touch the two terminals together on the connector after disconnecting it from the sensor. The relay can also be faulty and prevent the fan from operating, so do the check above and turn on the AC and make sure both fans are turning. BTW, if the system is leaking from anywhere, this MUST be repaired first for these sensors to work (or at least obsessively topped off each driving cycle, but not recommended for large leaks). The sensors rely on coolant being in the spaces they occupy, so if the coolant is low, they will not operate correctly or not at all without the coolant topped off and system bled.
@@plumkey197 thank you for the insight will use that for the future but it was the head gasket:/
@@Slingersbullseye What led you to suspect the head gasket? The process of elimination? Was the car overheated at anytime before all these problems started? I suspect my roommates CR-V may have a blown head gasket (or beginnings of one), but it has none of the classic signs, like oil and gas mixing, white smoke, missing, etc.. It has temperature fluctuations and disappearing coolant (maybe a half-pint at a time) without any signs of leaking on the driveway or in the car below the heater core.
The fan sensor ( switch ) is on the thermost housing. Not the ECT sensor.
Was your gas milage getting poor and the tail pipe getting black.
Had one of these snap on me today in the head (d16y8 engine) used an easy out to get it back out. Dont go 16fp more like 13fp 12fp or 10fp with lock tight
pro trick : watch series at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Graysen Santiago Yea, I've been using flixzone} for months myself =)
Can this going out cause my idles to go bonkers?
No oring?my came with an oring, isn't that to prevent it from leaking?
What it means "ect " sensor?? Thank you in advance for your answer
engine coolant temperature sendsir
Hello, just a question about how strong should I tighten the replacement. Thanks
Someone said 17 ftlbs but im not for sure. Just get it on there tight but dont go crazy tight
I went too tight. Snapped it inside of thr head. LMFAOOOOOO, was able to get it out. Costed me another $65 to replace. Never again.
@@2_2_4_3 you have been lucky to get it out.
@@phoenixtiger101tube used wire cutters.. my heart dropped and started racing when it first happened.. and cussed the Heavens. LMFAOOOOOO, and almost fell on my ass when I got it out. 👍🏻
Same for a b18b1?
I change my honda. Civic sensor but still up and down my temperature gauge radiator why
Because you replaced the wrong sensor. This sensor is the coolant temperature sensor, which only sends data to the car’s ECU. If your dashboard gauge is malfunctioning, you need to replace the ECT gauge sending unit, which is right next to the part replaced in the video, but does something completely different.
appleintosh do you know where I can find this?? I’ve been typing “ECT Gauge sending unit” everywhere and only find ect sensors not the ones for the gauge
Skynet Cyborg i have pretty similar issue on my mazda. Did you figure out yours ?
Where did you buy the sensor and how much
Try RockAuto they sell OEM replacement parts.
There is some sort of black connector that is to the right of this sensor, anyone got an idea as to what it is?
It should not be necessary to put thread sealer on these. what you want to remember to do is put the o-ring on the sensor before installing it (didn't see one on this replacement). And don't tighten it too much, just 17 ft-lb....
@Dano C. - Awesome / Good tips! Thread Sealer would melt through time. Should have used High Silicone Heat Sealant, that would work. I also agreed with the " O'Ring " on the Sensor as well. That O'Ring should be " Copper " so it can be easily removed later. But I agree with you 100% !!!
You dont need to use anything
The o-ring just crushed on mine, should I be good to run without?
@@Xavier_Performance_TuningIt would probably leak without it... I would take it out and check your o-ring. If it is still pliable (soft), I would re-torque it to the 17 ft-lb which isn't very tight. If the o-ring crushed, you either tightened it too tight or if it is an old o-ring, it lost it's pliability (softness) and needs to be replaced. You should really use one. If you can't get the exact o-ring, go to an auto parts store. They usually sell assorted sizes then just try one that fits the best...
Do you have to drain the coolant first ?
@Evan Heinz mi no comprende perrin😹😹 lol
i just got a 93’ lx sedan and it’s over heating bc the fans aren’t turning on. but the radiator fan is also pushing against the fan shroud so idk if that would be the reason too
Check the temp switch by the thermostat. If thats not it check the fuses. Ultimately if its not the that. Check the motors to the fan. Or be a ricer and add a switch and by pass everything for the fan.
¿Qué puede causar en el motor un sensor defectuoso?----------What can a faulty sensor cause in the motor?
Nada nomas es un sensor de computadora, no le ase efecto al motor, pero si se prende la luz del check engine porque es un sensor que no está trabajando
Would this sensor make the car just die randomly...... Then wait 5 to 10 minutes and it starts and runs fine???? No error codes......have replace fuel pump and filters, ignition control module, distributor cap, new wires, .......so I read this temp sensor could cause this??
Jason Cung that could be your distributor
ignition coil. A broken coil stops dead a warmed up car, can only be started again when the coil is cooled off
Is this the one connected to the thermostat?
No
That is the fan sensor
Would this prevent the fan from activating at high temperature
mquinn Yes, most definitely.
No, it would not it has a seperate temp sensor for the fan 😊
Wait... you did it twice? I am confused.
Did u have any rough idle problems or rough cold start problems. And did this help fix it?
+Vagio Guzman - Rough Idling / Rough Cold Start are caused by 2 things that I know. Either the Throttle Body / Plate needs Cleaning or Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). Here is how you do it if it's IACV. Use a OBD-2 Scanner.... Get the Code, quicker diagnostic... If NO.... Use the easy methods below :))))
No OBD-2 Scanner ??? Here is another " EASY " way to TEST it to see if your IACV not working? :). Turn on your Car.... Wait until Engine warm up to Normal Operating Temperature, once the Car is Surging Up / Down....
1. Go to the IACV connector and disconnect it. If Idle is back to " Normal ", IACV is bad and you need to replace it.
2. If you are at " Night ", if your Headlights is on.... Engine Surging Up / Down.... Shut off your Headlights... Engine back to " Normal ", IACV is bad and you need to replace it.
:)))))))
I have the same problem on mine... I have a misfire at start up.. only
@@JodBronson a bad engine temp sensor will cause rough idle/cold start. The computer determines fuel/air ratio partly based on engine temp. The mixture has to be rich for a cold engine. If the temp sensor is off likely the fuel delivery is off as well.
@@gfriedman99 - I agree with you 100%. I actually made a Video about this in my Channel. I also showed how to " By-Pass " temporary until you get a new one. CZcams Search Term: Bypass ECT Coolant Temperature Sensor Sending Unit + Paper Clip Resistor P0128 Car Truck S10
@@Forze77 - Misfired Engine are few things.... Check / Test.... Spark Plug, Spark Plug Wire, Fuel, Distributor Cap and Ignition Control Module.
Could anyone tell me what the connecter is right beside the ect sensor
Willy Martin it is the sensor that reads the coolant temp on the gauge cluster
David Padilla thank you
Thanks. Pretty sure the sensor on my sons car is out but couldn't find it.
Should be there otherwise the car would be spewing coolant. Whats the year make and model?
Epic Garage can the temperature sensor being bad cause car to over heat at idle.i just did the head gasket with a buddy of mine.and I believe that the sensor that snapped when putting back to head of the engine.how much would this cost to fix
+david henriquez - If overheating... It could be your Thermostat not " Opening " :/// Check the Fan to see if the Fan come on correctly during your " Overheating ". If the Fan is " ON " during overheating. Then your Thermostat might be stuck :///. Thermostat is really cheap, you can do it by yourself, not hard. I would try diagnostic first. If you live in a Warm / Hot Climate... You can actually Bypass the Thermostat and NEVER worrying about overheating again !!!
Jordan Bronson thanks brother I fixed it. It was the switch on the thermostat housing
+david henriquez - Cool... So it was the Sensor, like in the Video :)))
I can tell the distributor is way set to Advanced
Fuck the mechanic charge me 100$ to do it.
I be replace it yesterday and drove it for twenty minutes the gauge is still not steady I mean goes up slowly and sometimes goes back down
I’m not sure if a new sensor would take more time or it should be perfect since day one???
Thanks for the video
The plug with the single wire that is next to this sensor is the one that goes to your gauges
That engine bay is disgusting
+Austin Fleck - Get his address, come over and help him clean it :))))
+Pretty Sure - I don't think he knows what that is... LOL. Cause if he did he won't be asking that question in the first place, LOL. Give him 5-10 years from now, maybe he will learn a thing or two. Hopefully sooner, cause Time can be your Friend or Enemy, LOL
replace th pv valave
Looks like he needs to replace the o-ring on the distributor or possibly valve cover. if it's that o-ring on the distributor, leaving oil on that hose right below it, will eat it and cause it to burst in time.
@@craigorlikowski2507 Exactly. Probably too late for the hose at this point its a goner. As long as you have the distributor out might as well replace that hose.
That's actually the coolant fan switch.... ordered the part by name based off this video and got the wrong part....
RANDY REDDICK Me too,
I ordered fan switch from eBay,I removed the FAN SWITCH thinking it was the COOLANT SENSOR,I tried to replace but didn't fit.
Got very pissed and messaged the seller with both photos.
He told me that in my photo was "a fan switch" and I "bought coolant switch".
J k yea it's easy to mix them up, they do look similar and not far from each other as far as location...
There are 2 " separate " locations for Engine Temperature Coolant Sensor - Coolant Fan Sensor.
@@cv7288 - Depend on the Car / Truck Make / Models. Some looked identical on the outside but behave differently on the inside, so it's all depend.
The part he is replacing is called: water temperature sensor assembly. #13 on the Honda dealership websites. The exact wording is: sensor assy, water temperature. 96-00 Civic part # is: 37870-PJ7-003.
Thats not the ECT SENSOR.. just for gauge.
Não entendi nada não tem tradução nao???