Super excellent ,. Thank you for sharing Do you have video or information for a mikuni solex 32/35 DID I think ,, for 1986 Mitsubishi dodge 2.0L , water choke ,. Auto transmission
So from what I can gather if I'm using this carby for blow through turbo I can leave this valve as it is because as soon as I let off the throttle and the butterflies close there will be vaccume
Hi. The diaphragm on the side that shoots into your accelerator pump nozzles - all my books call it an anti stall device, apparently its supposed to shoot in some extra fuel if the engine is about to cough out.
Correct, it enriches the fuel when the carb is in a low vacuum condition. On a progressive carb that happens when the second choke opens to fully open. you will notice the connection pipe id below the second chokes butterfly. On a 38 usually when both chokes are fully open. Again the connection pipe is below the butterfly.
Awsome video very educational I have a a 34 adm webber on a L20b what jets would I start with with the power valve disabled it's working atm and just does not run right
I have no jet chard on your carb as I have not come across it here in South Africa, you can try this as a starting point 135/130 Mains, 165/165 Air correction with F66 emulsion on both chokes. 45 pump jet
Thanks for this video! I have two 38 DGAS on a BMW 3.0 that is rich almost everywhere but idle. I'd like to bypass the power valve in the float bowl to test if it's part of the problem, I see below you say to unscrew the valve body in the bottom of the bowl and insert a piece of rubber. To clarify this, do you mean to use a piece of rubber as a stopper/bung and leave the brass valve out?
Hi, Just unscrew the power valve and remove it for your test, does your carb have the enrichment system on the opposite side of the accelerator pump? if so just pinch the pipe
Hi there I am from Durban.. i have a 38dgas on my m110 6 cylinder 2.8 engine. No one in Durban can help me with it.. I basically have made my own jets using lead and reaming them.. I am battling to find idle jets in 55 as the original size is 45 and the car will not preform has huge flat spot on pull off mid range is good. Made up 50 jets reaming the 45 jets out . Currently running 150 mains and 170 air correction and standard emulsion tubes for ford v6 from were I got that carb from. The stumble on pull off is way way better got mixture screws at 1 and a half turns maybe touch more and tried in and out and stubble is still there some times.. Hi up in the Rev range the car revs clean to like 3000rpm the after that shudders not sure if to much fuel or to little.... when it happens if you take your foot off acceleration it gets better.
Hi, i think you are been messed around by the enrichment systems on the carb. Remember this carb was designed specifically for the Ford V6 engine and the enrichment systems and jets are for the V6. I have managed to make a 38 work in a Nissan 1400 but i disabled all the enrichment systems and changed the jets many times to get to the smooth spot. I also changed a 38 to progressive and it also worked well on my 1400. I think you will be better of with a 36 DCD carb, and jet it for a Nissan 2.8, it will be a good starting point but i think it will work well. you are welcome to contact me on 060 654 6966 - Gert
Hi Gert, I very cool video. Would you mind if I ask you a related question regarding the power valve? I've got an old Audi 100 2.1 10valve 5cyl in my microbus with a 38 Weber and I am using what I think is an awful amount of petrol. The carb was cleaned and checked for leaks etc it has the standard jets 145, 210 etc I did remove the choke plates and the choke bar, so no restriction there. I have it running off a small electric Facet pump and the vacuum is connected to the distributor. You mentioned in your one video you "blocked off" or "deleted" the power valve for you 1400 bakkie and got something like 13km/l. Yes I'm aware I am driving a bus and don't expect those kind of figures but do you think "deleting" the power valve will help as it's also a "small" motor compared to a 3l V6 ford. I would appreciate any advice you can give me based on your experience on the power valve, vacuum and even the facet pump please. Thanks Alastair
Hi Alastair, thanks for watching. I would block two of the enrichment systems to start with, the one on the side you can close by putting a small metal ball in the pipe. The one in the float chamber you can unscrew and block the hole with a small piece of rubber. The facet pump is not a problem, i use one on my bakkie, I installed it at the back of the petrol tank.
Hello, how can i make my 32 DAT run leaner at cruise speed....it runs afr 11.5-12 , i tried many jets for both chambers without effect 32dat 18/251 supercharged (suzuki 1.6 16v)
So you're saying the power valve system is not necessary? Thank you sir, my carby is also missing any sort of jetting in that hole. My poor little 2 Liter Mazda doesn't like it.
Thanks Gert, beautiful explanation. I have a question: if you remove the weber style spring/diaphragm, do you set main jet bigger than standard or just stock jet? I have a 32/36 dgav on 1500 cortina and had black plugs straight away. After removing power valve spring/shaft it has no power under throttle so I presume it is lean?
Hi, Gert. Excellent videos. Weber knowledge is dying out... Anyway, I have a rebuilt 38 DGAS on an Essex V6 3.0. Runs great, choke works, gives good economy (for an Essex V6...). My carb has a large screw set deep into a hole above the unused/blocked off vacuum port behind the synchro gears, right between the two barrels. I've read somewhere that it is an air balancing screw? What is it really, how does it affect my carb, and how do I set/adjust/tune it? Also, in other news, initial acceleration feels good without stumbling, but then it sort of stops pulling at about 3500rpm. Feels wheezy. Any ideas? I could come to your shop, I live near enough. Regards
Hi, it could be lots of things, 1. fuel supply - float level or partly clogged filters or even a fuel pump. 2. check you timing and vacuum advance. 3. spark, check you plug leads (does it have points and condenser), check your spark plugs. 4. is your air filter clean? If all of that is 100% you can look at jetting. i hope it helps
My main issue iv been having is running way to rich at idle iv tried many different jet set ups orso braking up at 6.5k rmp + and burning thru sparkplugs been watching your vids for 2 nights now seem like a webber carb legend
Yes, if you block all the enrichment systems you are then in control of how you want to jet the carb. Remember that carb could be from a 2000cc engine.
I tried blocking them an ended up with a big flat spot first trying to drive from low rpm an not idling I run no chokes My primary main is 125 air correct is 180 tube is f50 idle 55 Secondary is main 130 air correct is 195 tube f66 idle 55 This is a 1300cc tune i found online i have 1600cc jet set up as well but having issues with both setups been abit rich I've 1.3/4 turns on mix been messing with this thing for months now and makes some really good power changes but most of the time it likes all or nothing with the cam specs the want valve lash at 12in 14ex starts braking up alot at high rpm if i go to factory valve lash specs of hot 020in an 030ex its alot better but looses alot of power i feel as if I'm head butting a brick wall
Hi Gert, the 32/36 DGEV on a larger 3.3L engine- is it possible that the power valve might struggle to open normally due to high engine vacuum and as such larger jets will need to be installed? Chasing a bad fuel economy issue that I've emailed you about but just had this thought.
It is a unusual situation, i have never put a 32/36 on a larger motor, i always use a 36 dcd or 38 DGAS for that.the only two fuel enrichment system that cause cause a high fuel usage is the carb power valve in the float bowl and the calibrated bush in the carb top, drawing fuel from the float bowl. the 32/36 only has one. what emulsion tubes are you using, if you use F6 you can probably get away with using smaller main jets without a flat spot.
@@carburettorrebuildservice8964 Just using the factory ones as it is a new carby. I will be going to a 38 DGAS anyways, it was obviously not the right carby for the engine.
@@carburettorrebuildservice8964 38 DGES was an immediate improvement. So much more fun to drive, less flat spots etc. have only had to bump up the idle jets to get the idle mixture screw to 1.5 turns like weber suggests and to cure a couple of flat spots in transition but drives amazing and has been so much easier. Havent measured fuel economy yet so will post back later.
@@carburettorrebuildservice8964 I do have a bit of a flatspot after the initial hit on acceleration high throttle though. Takes a second or two for the engine to take off after the initial hit. I'm thinking emulsion tubes.. would you recommend F6 or F8? 3.3L inline 6 engine.
sorry i don't know your language. What is the carb power valve assy task? can you write in English? my car stalls at the first accelerator and faints on the ramps, everything else is new and normal.
He said "Power Valve Assembly", it should not affect your acceleration that bad, but wierd things happen. To make life easier, because it could be your Pump Jet, could be lean, too rich, etc, lots of variables to a degre. Write down your carb and car, and all your jets. It will help him help you.
block it off?? no no! no! no! not another guy thinking he is smarter than the design engineers, the crap he is doing will be detrimental to any engine!!!
Hi, thanks for watching my videos, much appreciated. Please watch the video to the end for clarity. In the application that i have explained, we use a carburetor that was designed by the engineers for a large cc engine (1600-2300cc) on a small 1400cc engine and as a result the the calibrated bushes fitted to the carburetor is to large for our small engines and as a result over fuels. in some cases so bad that the engine stutters. That is the reason we block it off in some applications. We have over the years tunes it into a fine art. We also monitor the air/fuel mixtures with a gauge fitted in the car.
Thank you at 9:30 I see where you block it off. Great explanation too.
Thanks mate, much appreciated. Didn't realise there were a few different set-ups.
Thanks again for sharing all these tips. Your videos gave me the confidence to rebuild a Weber 32 dir- Cheers!
Thanks for sharing this. Very helpful.
Super excellent ,. Thank you for sharing
Do you have video or information for a mikuni solex 32/35 DID I think ,, for 1986 Mitsubishi dodge 2.0L , water choke ,. Auto transmission
So from what I can gather if I'm using this carby for blow through turbo I can leave this valve as it is because as soon as I let off the throttle and the butterflies close there will be vaccume
Hi. The diaphragm on the side that shoots into your accelerator pump nozzles - all my books call it an anti stall device, apparently its supposed to shoot in some extra fuel if the engine is about to cough out.
Correct, it enriches the fuel when the carb is in a low vacuum condition. On a progressive carb that happens when the second choke opens to fully open. you will notice the connection pipe id below the second chokes butterfly. On a 38 usually when both chokes are fully open. Again the connection pipe is below the butterfly.
Awsome video very educational I have a a 34 adm webber on a L20b what jets would I start with with the power valve disabled it's working atm and just does not run right
I have no jet chard on your carb as I have not come across it here in South Africa, you can try this as a starting point 135/130 Mains, 165/165 Air correction with F66 emulsion on both chokes. 45 pump jet
Thanks for this video! I have two 38 DGAS on a BMW 3.0 that is rich almost everywhere but idle. I'd like to bypass the power valve in the float bowl to test if it's part of the problem, I see below you say to unscrew the valve body in the bottom of the bowl and insert a piece of rubber. To clarify this, do you mean to use a piece of rubber as a stopper/bung and leave the brass valve out?
Hi, Just unscrew the power valve and remove it for your test, does your carb have the enrichment system on the opposite side of the accelerator pump? if so just pinch the pipe
Hi there I am from Durban.. i have a 38dgas on my m110 6 cylinder 2.8 engine. No one in Durban can help me with it.. I basically have made my own jets using lead and reaming them.. I am battling to find idle jets in 55 as the original size is 45 and the car will not preform has huge flat spot on pull off mid range is good.
Made up 50 jets reaming the 45 jets out .
Currently running 150 mains and 170 air correction and standard emulsion tubes for ford v6 from were I got that carb from.
The stumble on pull off is way way better got mixture screws at 1 and a half turns maybe touch more and tried in and out and stubble is still there some times..
Hi up in the Rev range the car revs clean to like 3000rpm the after that shudders not sure if to much fuel or to little.... when it happens if you take your foot off acceleration it gets better.
Hi, i think you are been messed around by the enrichment systems on the carb. Remember this carb was designed specifically for the Ford V6 engine and the enrichment systems and jets are for the V6. I have managed to make a 38 work in a Nissan 1400 but i disabled all the enrichment systems and changed the jets many times to get to the smooth spot. I also changed a 38 to progressive and it also worked well on my 1400. I think you will be better of with a 36 DCD carb, and jet it for a Nissan 2.8, it will be a good starting point but i think it will work well. you are welcome to contact me on 060 654 6966 - Gert
Hi Gert, I very cool video. Would you mind if I ask you a related question regarding the power valve?
I've got an old Audi 100 2.1 10valve 5cyl in my microbus with a 38 Weber and I am using what I think is an awful amount of petrol. The carb was cleaned and checked for leaks etc it has the standard jets 145, 210 etc I did remove the choke plates and the choke bar, so no restriction there. I have it running off a small electric Facet pump and the vacuum is connected to the distributor.
You mentioned in your one video you "blocked off" or "deleted" the power valve for you 1400 bakkie and got something like 13km/l. Yes I'm aware I am driving a bus and don't expect those kind of figures but do you think "deleting" the power valve will help as it's also a "small" motor compared to a 3l V6 ford. I would appreciate any advice you can give me based on your experience on the power valve, vacuum and even the facet pump please.
Thanks Alastair
Hi Alastair, thanks for watching. I would block two of the enrichment systems to start with, the one on the side you can close by putting a small metal ball in the pipe. The one in the float chamber you can unscrew and block the hole with a small piece of rubber. The facet pump is not a problem, i use one on my bakkie, I installed it at the back of the petrol tank.
Jet size for a straight 6 L28 engine
Hello, how can i make my 32 DAT run leaner at cruise speed....it runs afr 11.5-12 , i tried many jets for both chambers without effect
32dat 18/251 supercharged (suzuki 1.6 16v)
By making the main jets smaller should make it run leaner
So you're saying the power valve system is not necessary?
Thank you sir, my carby is also missing any sort of jetting in that hole. My poor little 2 Liter Mazda doesn't like it.
Yes, on a small motor it over fuels, remember the orifices was made for the Ford 3000V6
Thanks Gert, beautiful explanation. I have a question: if you remove the weber style spring/diaphragm, do you set main jet bigger than standard or just stock jet? I have a 32/36 dgav on 1500 cortina and had black plugs straight away. After removing power valve spring/shaft it has no power under throttle so I presume it is lean?
Also had backfiring under load before removing. That has stopped but lost a lot of power.
@@Phil_Taz I would suggest a larger main jet on the second choke
backfire us usually a sign that it is lean
Hi, Gert. Excellent videos. Weber knowledge is dying out...
Anyway, I have a rebuilt 38 DGAS on an Essex V6 3.0.
Runs great, choke works, gives good economy (for an Essex V6...).
My carb has a large screw set deep into a hole above the unused/blocked off vacuum port behind the synchro gears, right between the two barrels.
I've read somewhere that it is an air balancing screw?
What is it really, how does it affect my carb, and how do I set/adjust/tune it?
Also, in other news, initial acceleration feels good without stumbling, but then it sort of stops pulling at about 3500rpm. Feels wheezy. Any ideas? I could come to your shop, I live near enough.
Regards
Hi, it could be lots of things, 1. fuel supply - float level or partly clogged filters or even a fuel pump. 2. check you timing and vacuum advance. 3. spark, check you plug leads (does it have points and condenser), check your spark plugs. 4. is your air filter clean? If all of that is 100% you can look at jetting. i hope it helps
Am i best to delete these if im running a 32 36 webber on a 1300cc toyota 4k with a mild cam ??
My main issue iv been having is running way to rich at idle iv tried many different jet set ups orso braking up at 6.5k rmp + and burning thru sparkplugs been watching your vids for 2 nights now seem like a webber carb legend
Yes, if you block all the enrichment systems you are then in control of how you want to jet the carb. Remember that carb could be from a 2000cc engine.
I tried blocking them an ended up with a big flat spot first trying to drive from low rpm an not idling
I run no chokes
My primary main is 125 air correct is 180 tube is f50 idle 55
Secondary is main 130 air correct is 195 tube f66 idle 55
This is a 1300cc tune i found online i have 1600cc jet set up as well but having issues with both setups been abit rich I've 1.3/4 turns on mix been messing with this thing for months now and makes some really good power changes but most of the time it likes all or nothing with the cam specs the want valve lash at 12in 14ex starts braking up alot at high rpm if i go to factory valve lash specs of hot 020in an 030ex its alot better but looses alot of power i feel as if I'm head butting a brick wall
Hi Gert, the 32/36 DGEV on a larger 3.3L engine- is it possible that the power valve might struggle to open normally due to high engine vacuum and as such larger jets will need to be installed? Chasing a bad fuel economy issue that I've emailed you about but just had this thought.
It is a unusual situation, i have never put a 32/36 on a larger motor, i always use a 36 dcd or 38 DGAS for that.the only two fuel enrichment system that cause cause a high fuel usage is the carb power valve in the float bowl and the calibrated bush in the carb top, drawing fuel from the float bowl. the 32/36 only has one. what emulsion tubes are you using, if you use F6 you can probably get away with using smaller main jets without a flat spot.
@@carburettorrebuildservice8964 Just using the factory ones as it is a new carby. I will be going to a 38 DGAS anyways, it was obviously not the right carby for the engine.
@@LiamsGotThisPlease let me know how it goes.
@@carburettorrebuildservice8964 38 DGES was an immediate improvement. So much more fun to drive, less flat spots etc. have only had to bump up the idle jets to get the idle mixture screw to 1.5 turns like weber suggests and to cure a couple of flat spots in transition but drives amazing and has been so much easier. Havent measured fuel economy yet so will post back later.
@@carburettorrebuildservice8964 I do have a bit of a flatspot after the initial hit on acceleration high throttle though. Takes a second or two for the engine to take off after the initial hit. I'm thinking emulsion tubes.. would you recommend F6 or F8? 3.3L inline 6 engine.
sorry i don't know your language. What is the carb power valve assy task? can you write in English? my car stalls at the first accelerator and faints on the ramps, everything else is new and normal.
He said "Power Valve Assembly", it should not affect your acceleration that bad, but wierd things happen.
To make life easier, because it could be your Pump Jet, could be lean, too rich, etc, lots of variables to a degre. Write down your carb and car, and all your jets. It will help him help you.
@@rustywolf6813 my carb. Weber 32/36 and my car ford taunus 2.0 ohc.
maybe it's from the co setting, I made the setting myself without the device
block it off?? no no! no! no! not another guy thinking he is smarter than the design engineers, the crap he is doing will be detrimental to any engine!!!
Hi, thanks for watching my videos, much appreciated. Please watch the video to the end for clarity. In the application that i have explained, we use a carburetor that was designed by the engineers for a large cc engine (1600-2300cc) on a small 1400cc engine and as a result the the calibrated bushes fitted to the carburetor is to large for our small engines and as a result over fuels. in some cases so bad that the engine stutters. That is the reason we block it off in some applications. We have over the years tunes it into a fine art. We also monitor the air/fuel mixtures with a gauge fitted in the car.