Why Dan Likes the Code RSC More Than Any Other Brake
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- čas přidán 14. 04. 2022
- There's a number of really amazing hydraulic disc brakes out there, all of which offer incredible stopping power, modulation, and control, but Dan keeps coming back to the Codes for four reasons:
- Adjustability
- Compatibility
- Ease of Use
- Parts Availability
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#mtb #sramcode # - Sport
I have been running HOPE disc brakes since their first DH brakes in the early 90's, tried others like Hayes when they came out, Avid and a lot of others. Couple months ago I bought a 2022 Santa Cruz Heckler with SRAM Code R and am pretty impressed. I just bought the SRAM HS 2 rotors, super excited to see how these work and I do miss having the ability to adjust when the lever engages so might have to step up to the RSC at some point, great review Dan.
I also recently ordered the DB8 brakes but havent installed them, im super hyped to find out how they feel.
Built my first bike almost 3 years ago and chose the code rsc from the start. They've been absolutely awesome and I intend to stick with them unless I go to a Paul Klamper mechanical at some point.
RSC’s, 220 HS2 rotors, MTX Gold pads, Maxima fluid. Best brakes ever.
Huge difference with these MTX Gold pads & HS2 rotors. Constant feel, perfect modulation & power when you need it.
I have run MTX red and MTX gold in dominion A4 with 203 f+r and the red have more modulation and gold have more power (less modulation).
I've got the RSCs with Galfer 223mm rotors, Galfer pads and Uberbike stainless steel braided hoses. Amazing setup.
G2 RSC Ultimate with Galfer 223 rotors and pads is the best combo for me, I has been using all the models of Avid and SRAM since they are in the market, never complained, the best for me about SRAM btrakes is that you brek something and you can buy it, any part, any seal anything. I do my own mechanics and enjoy doind from scratch all those jobs, also I'm not a light guy, I'a a 210lbs guy with a 35lbs Megatower.
I've used Code R brakes with 200mm Centreline rotors for a couple of years and liked them but felt I needed more stopping power for my 220lbs...toyed with trying Magura MT7's for my new Nukeproof Giga build but in the end opted for RSC's with 200mm HS2 rotors and am massively impressed by the step up in braking power! Very happy with these brakes so far, and appreciate the same easy bleed and maintenance procedures...win-win!!
Glad to hear it! They definitely brought about improvements with the new rotors, and it's great that they fit on all SRAM brakes, even older models.
Cheers - Dan at Fanatik
Couldn’t AGREE more! As a long time rider, part time mechanic and shop supervisor for a ski resort rental fleet, I can attest to the tried & true nature of the SRAM Code’s. I personally run RSC’s on my Turbo Levo SL and cannot imagine a better brake. Like you point out, if you’ve ever tackled bleeding brakes, you’ll attest that the SRAM Bleeding Edge set-up is amongst the easiest, especially after you’ve done it a couple times. My only quibble, DOT fluid. Time has come for all brakes to run mineral oil, it just has.
If you’re considering new brakes on your rig, you absolutely CANNOT go wrong with the Code RSC! Maybe not a sexy, counter-culture choice like a Magura or the ever present other “S” company’s brakes or even the offerings from Hayes or TRP. Each company might offer one aspect you like but not one of them combines the whole package like the RSC.
Cheers! Thanks for the feedback!
- Dan at Fanatik
"Unlike DOT fluid, Mineral Oil is hydrophobic and does not absorb moisture from the environment. This means that there are no wet or dry boiling temperatures to worry about, the boiling point stays constant and never drops. That's the good news.
The bad news is that any water that does enter the brake system, via seals or microscopic pores in the lines etc., will effectively reduce the boiling point of the whole brake system to that of water - just 100°C. This is because as the fluid repels any water ingress, it causes it to pool at low points within the brake system, usually the caliper, since water is heavier than brake fluid it will settle at the lowest point. This is worrying because the fluid in the caliper is more susceptible to high temperatures as it's at the business end of the brake, where the friction is created."
Just bought a new Levo SL, my first trail bike after 20 years xc only, and the first thing I did was swapping the Sram brakes for XTRs. I have to admit the new Srams are better than what they offered during the last years, however they are not for me…and when you look at amateur racing, not for the majority…
Just bought a new Levo SL, my first trail bike after 20 years xc only, and the first thing I did was swapping the Sram brakes for XTRs. I have to admit the new Srams are better than what they offered during the last years, however they are not for me…and when you look at amateur racing, not for the majority…
Just bought a new Levo SL, my first trail bike after 20 years xc only, and the first thing I did was swapping the Sram brakes for XTRs. I have to admit the new Srams are better than what they offered during the last years, however they are not for me…and when you look at amateur racing, not for the majority…
New to Code's...didn't know that about the power adjustment thanks! Wouldn't mind dialing down the rear a little bit.
I have Code RSC at my house waiting to be installed! Im excited.
I'm shocked that there aren't more videos comparing the R vs. RSC. Not just what the acronym stands for... But the real world improvements that justify the upgrade. How does the tech translate to the ride quality? Is it all marketing or are the tangible improvements?
Really enjoyed this, thanks Dan!
Glad to hear it, my pleasure!
- Dan at Fanatik
Great, quick informative vid!
I've used Shimano XT or Saint brakes for most of my riding. Got a new bike with Code RSC's on them. Took me about half a ride to really enjoy the ramp up feel of the power. I will be interested see how they do on longer descents.
I did like the tech Shimano put into heat dissipation. The random bite point and glazing really started to kill my experience on Shimanos. No I just need to break my double clutch habit I formed from the bite point issues.
You convinced me Dan! I've been running stock Code Rs for the last two years and unfortunately the lever blades are starting to get lose and there is no way of tightening them as they seem to be riveted onto the brake lever body. Bummer. So I will probably upgrade to Code RSCs, also for more adjustability.
I’m a huge Shimano braking fan. I’ve experienced the mystery bite point before and sometimes when ‘race’ braking it is a bit scary if the braking bite point isn’t where you expect it to be. The times I do this are so far and few between that I won’t run anything other than Shimano brakes. That being said I do with the bleeding process was closer to what SRAM has, like you mentioned, because I really dislike having to attach the hose to the nipple and juggle a syringe as well. Side note, I did start running the MTX ceramic pads that you guys sell and It made me even more of a fan of the XTs I have. The stopping power is ridiculous and noticeably more consistent.
I have both SRAM and Shimano and I prefer Shimano over the SRAM too, I even have the HS2 rotors and MTX pads and it didn't help the SRAM's, they stuff suck!
@@mothraman3195 Code RSC's definitely don't suck. SRAM's lower-end models are not great though. I use Maguras but I've owned and used Code RSC's for years before that and yeah they're a good brake. Not as much power as my Maguras but definitely on par with Shimanos offerings. Shimano brakes are solid but there's nothing really special about them and they're not as adjustable or east to setup and maintain as SRAM. If I wasn't using Maguras, I'd end up going with the Code RSC's again for the reasons stated in this video.
@@sml2238 I should have specified Code R's but I'd still pick anything else but sram, not happy with their stuff and will avoid any bike that comes sram equiped
@@mothraman3195 Yeah Code R's do suck big time. But I'm surprised you don't like SRAM as a whole. I love their AXS/Transmission/eTap stuff. It just works so well and makes building and maintaining bikes so much easier and more clean. I definitely do prefer some other brakes but then again I do not mind SRAMs top of the line brakes, they're super easy to bleed and maintain. But to each their own, that's why it's good there's other manufacturers. I do like Shimano parts as well, but I just can't give up AXS/Transmission. It's so nice. Even the shifter ergonomics are amazing and highly customizable. I have nerve damage to my right hand so I literally need AXS because I need to be able to have the button in a specific spot and it needs to be easy to press and I also sometimes use my index finger and just tap the second button below the front brake.
Love my Codes! I am running the old SRAM 220 rotors which are good. But the resonate on certain trails. I am going to try the new HS2 rotors. I believe the thicker rotor will help with the resinating sound I get on hard surfaces. Basically when my tire rubs on rocks, it is transferred to the rotors causing them to resonate. They work great but I don’t like the sound.
this is Awesome review thanks bro..💪
My Hightower LT and Ripley have RSC's and my Megatower has XTR's. Completely different braking characteristics. The Shimano setup is definitely much more on/off to the point where the front wheel locks up on anything slightly loose coming into a corner sometimes. The RSC's are waaaaay more progressive and not so grabby. And yes I could go with a less aggressive pad for the Shimano setup, but then I'll have to deal with a lot of heat buildup on the steep chunky descents here in Phoenix. I need the braking power but the on/off feel is just too much sometimes.
where do you like to ride in phoenix?
Yup, if you like Shimano you'll never like SRAM, but not everyone (myself included) don't like such a strong bite. BTW went to Hawes (from PA) last month when I was on vacation in AZ. So good and saved a 2 hour ride to Sedona.
I ride Codes for the same reasons. My buddy had just got a set of Hope right before a Durango trip. His rear caliper froze up 1 mile into a back country DH and he had to walk his bike back to the truck. Naturally, none of the local shops had Hope parts, so he had to buy a set of Codes just to keep the trip going. I've had several sets of RSC's over the years and, unfortunately, the contact adjust wheel has broken on every single set. Bums me out, but I still love 'em..
turns out sometimes having a common brake is a good idea haha
The contact adjust wheel seized up on both of mine and I found that the issue was the little ball bearing and spring that gives the wheel a detent feel. You can just remove the spring and ball, chuck the screw back in, and it works just fine. Hope this helps!
wow. I use code rsc and I didn't even know about all of these adjustability.. dang.. thanks fanatik.
Course! Glad you found it informative!
- Dan at Fanatik
I do like the SRAM Code RSC's especially adjustability, ease of maintenance, and availability. But some downsides I noticed with mine compared to Maura's is that the brake feel and power wasn't as nice but nothing to scoff at for sure. But even with the contact point adjustment it always felt like I had to squeeze the levers so far in and hard to get even close to the power I was looking for on steep descents. They also feel a little squishy at the bottom and not like they weren't bled properly squishy, but just like the overall braking system was a bit weak like there was some flex or give to the system under hard breaking. The other thing was my rotors kept bending very easily to where they'd always be noisey on the pads, but that was with the older style rotors.
After switching to Magura with their thicker and more stout rotors that stopped happening and I love the braking power, modulation, and lever feel with the HC3 levers which are the absolute tits. The shape, feel, and power curve of the Maguras with HC3 levers is really nice. Also, the Maguras feel like they have a lot more power and they feel like there's weight behind it when braking hard on steep descents like when I need the power the Maguras have a brick shit house waiting for me at the bottom of the contact point which feels very defined throughout the strike, with just the right amount of modulation ability or ramp up, but again that raw, solid stopping power at the bottom of the stroke that inspires confidence on those gnarly steep downhill trails. SRAM's levers are much more generic but I don't really like the feel of them sort of feels like a flat/square blade just sticking out where my HC3 levers cradle my index finger with love, just waiting to be squeezed, super cute. The levers, calipers, and rotors look super sick as well.
But Maguras are like big hair balls thumping on your cornhole to bleed and centering the rotor is a bit of a pain in the ass too, just setup in general. You definitely have to know what you're doing to bleed them properly and efficiently, there's a bit of a technique you have to use in my experience to get all the air out of the hose, caliper, and lever. They're a bit fidly, and it is a little messy when using the caliper bleed port...especially compared to SRAM which are by far the least fiddly brakes I've ever used, you can tell SRAM puts a lot of engineering into that east of setup, use, and maintenance. So I can definitely see sticking with Code RSC's but idk I still love my Maguras as once you get them setup they're f'n dialed.
I'm with you, SRAM brakes, especially Codes, are my favorite. One thing you didn't mention about the bleed is that I found it needs to be done far less frequently than Shimi. One good bleed, done correctly, will last you a long time.
VERY, very true. I had a set of G2’s that I ran for almost two years and never once had to bleed them once I set them up. Only had to replace pads, easy peasy!
I had Shimano brakes on my last bike and I did need to bleed them too often. Wasn't hard once I learned but it was annoying.
Talking about the swing link and showing the removed lever blade is wrong - the swing link is actually the intermediate link between the lever itself (the part shown) and the piston, which, in essence, changes the leverage ratio of the lever vs. the piston (same as on rear suspension). The R brakes have a more linear and less changing leverage ratio than the RS(C), which gives the RS(C) models (same applies to the Guide/G2 lineup) more power and more pad clearance (more piston movement) at the same time for the same finger/lever throw.
In my opinion, it's essential to have an 'S' model of Sram brakes, those are perfect. R-only brakes tend to be quite sucky and underpowered.
Regarding bleeding, I've been 'lucky' to have bled my first set of Shimano brakes about a month ago after a few years only bleeding Sram brakes (mostly with the Bleeding Edge mount too). All I can say is two syringes trump anything else (so much that I've adapted the method to servicing Super Deluxe shocks as well) and Sram really should put a bleeding edge mount on the lever as well.
Code R and RSC and they are great with the RSC slightly better. I run only sintered pads but trying Carbon Lorraine pads and there very good. I use Magura floating discs MRD-P 220mm discs front and rear ,E -bike.
Thank you Dan!! I'm actually going to upgrade to the RSC's when my brakes are due for a bleed.
Cheers!
- Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo SO I was going to buy the TRP DH-R EVO, But the shop I went through didn't carry them. My big concern is that hand fatigue. I'd Like to See you do a side by side comparison of RSC's and the TRP DH-R EVO. I know the TEMPs Are significantly lower on the TRP's. I heard that TRP's have the strong BITE of a MT7 with the modulation feel of an RSC. Though you can't adjust the contact point on the TRP. I also heard the TRP's run a plastic part where the break line goes into the lever, which is prone to cracking while the RSC run rubber. I have to see someone run the TRP DH-R EVO with their top MTB Rotors, and the MTX pads. I am also curious to know if running HOPE Floating ROTORs or the SRAM HS2 are better? Can we reduce the fade & temperature on RSC's by upgrading to the SRAM HS2 Rotors and MTX pads? This is super important to me to make sure I GET the top end brakes on the first time around as I can't afford to buy two sets of Brakes at those High Prices. I've seen RICH saying TRP are the best, & you say the CODE RSC's are the best. But you guys don't do any comparison between the two. would be nice to see you both go out and ride each set of brakes do a temperature test at the bottom of the run, both running the upgraded rotors and pads. Another thingI am curious about are if the TRP's will fit any ENDURO or DH bike like the SRAM CODE RSC do. So many things unanswered. No one seems to compare these two side by side & it is way overdue. Posting this up top and here in hopes of DAN & RICH taking out their bikes. Then having a discussion about why or why not you choose one over the other. If you do this you will be the first and only Channel to compare the SRAM CODE RSC & the TRP DH-R EVO. I had just ordered the Code RSC's & was about to order New Hope Floating Rotors & MTX pads, but I want to make sure I have the best of both worlds. I have severe Health issues so I run an EMTB Enduro/DH/Trail bike. I can't afford Multiple bikes so I need one that can handle all 3 disciplines. I have crappy G2 R's that came on my Enduro, & tbh they are garbage. No modulation, not much braking power, & the rear brake with the centerline rotor is spongey as heck no matter how many times I've had it Bled. I thought Going to the New Code RSC's would be a major upgrade, & it will. But with the price between TRP & SRAM nearly the same. I am wondering if I should return my CODE RSC's & wait for you guys to release a comparison video. Probably going to be calling FANATIK on Monday. I should weigh about 170lbs but with my health issues I've dropped down to 138lbs. Last time I weighed under 140 I was in 7th grade LOL. So for me perfomance is super important. Also being able to use same brakes across multiple disciplines is very very important. I've heard of people running Shigura(Magura Shimano mix) but I really don't like Shimanos AT ALL. Please do a comparison video.
I’ve only ridden code rs and shimano slx. Like the modulation and feel of the code but I do like the lever shape of the slx.
Then Magura Mt7 with hc3 levers would be perfect for you. Crazy power, lever similar to Shimano, but still has modulation and adjustability like the RSCs, and with less lever throw.
I actually can't stand the lever shape on Magura brakes. They way they pull feels unnatural to me (I run my brakes a bit differently than most people I talk to though). On the flip side, I think Shimano levers feel great.
- Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo I'm not a fan of of the HC levers for sure. Too wide. The HC3 levers on the other hand are slimmer. They feel a lot like Shimano levers but firmer. I've even considered using them with Saint calipers but I'm perfectly happy with Magura calipers.
I had codes rsc brakes two times on my bikes an had Master cylinder issues on them both times... No more problem since i switched to Shimano Saints brakes... Like the bite and the ease of the bleading process... Also No issues on spare parts
I have the RSC on my Enduro as well, and im absolutely happy with them.. Ive tried MT5s, but the contactpoint feels so much more direct, i had a hard time dosing the brakepower. Well im only 80 KGs, so i just might not need that immediate extreme lockup potential :D
Not to say the RSC cant stop you, there is just a bit more pressure needed on the lever, at least from what i felt.
Never used SRAM brakes before. All my bikes had Magura brakes from factory by chance😂 now I have MT5 on my downhill bike and I am 70kg. Never had a problem but really curious about SRAM brakes now 😂
I have to absolutely agree with Dan. G2 and Code RSC's - the best brakes on the market. Bleeding this brakes is a godsend pleasure. And I have bled some brakes: Shimano Magura old Avid brakes.....a disaster compared to the new G2 and Code🤣😂 The braking power and the adjustment options are simply brilliant
Magura's are easy though. Actually similar to Sram. After filling, just do a vacuum bleed at the lever end before closing off the brakes and it's perfect every time. Takes me 2 minutes to cut the hose and do a perfect lever bleed on a new set of Maguras. I actually have a video about it.
Would you mind telling exactly how you bleed sram brakes? I follow Sram’s procedure and leaks in the hose/syringe always let air into the system when I do the suction portion of the bleed. Doesn’t matter how fancy my syringe is
@@peterlang5047 That's what I like about bleeding Maguras. The syringe is one solid piece that you just jam into the lever end's bleed port. There's no place for air to get pulled in through. Those multi piece syringes always end up pulling air in and then it gets sucked into the brakes when you equalize. Did you try the Jagwire Elite kit for Sram? Maybe that has a better seal.
@@dukeofmtb yes and yes. I personally have Maguras on all my bikes but I bleed SRAMs all the time for customers
@@dukeofmtb and we use the jagwire elite kit for dot brakes 👍
perfect for what we needed it for
Very honest opinion and some true facts as well got to say the bleeding got much better , but ask any mechanic in Europe and the will tell you that a Shimano is the best money for value and the best customer break , there is a reasons why Hayes, formula, and sram as well are getting away from dot fluid ! A bike break ain't a car or a motorbike the only breaks which have dot fluid and run smooth are Hope which have a big enough chamaber on the top to deal with dot's issues and bleeding is so simple
But once again thank you Dan on your insights and you even made me think about to try those sram brakes out on the trails so that I could share my honest opinion as well
Both my bikes came with Tektro brakes and unlike some I've had good luck just running what my bikes came with. They did take a special break in procedure that I devised and isn't recommended by anyone I've seen bed in brakes. My basic hdc 300 tektros sucked until I went up a rotor size up front and bedded them in my way. Now they can put me over the bars. So my next bike came with 4 piston tektro orion brakes and they sucked out the box as well. But after my special bed in procedure its also now a over the bars setup if I grab a handful (one finger braking on both setups). I have no complaints but know some brakes are better without my bed in procedure for sure.
I want to see if I can run some shimano slx levers/master cylinder with my 4 piston orion calipers and see if I gain more stopping power with shimano master cylinders. If anything it will just make my bike more fully SLX equipped and match my drivetrain lol.
Run what ya brung!
I like to give Rich crap that he loves his Tektro brakes (TRP is Tektro). They're great breaks though.
Cheers - Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo I definitely am considering some TRPs. I am a Shimano fanboy though so not sure what route I may take. Ride on!
My first set of code rsc, the caliper pistons only worked on one side and pushed the rotor into the caliper. Was super frustrating, as I was new to mountain biking at the time and it made me want to quit because I had tons of problems with those brakes.
I just got another complete with these brakes on it again and they seem to be working fine.
My impression from the first set was pretty upset with them. The new ones seem to be working so far.
I’m 50/50 on code RSC. Yes they are nice.. when they work.
Sticky pistons are easy to fix. Takes a maximum of 10min, including removing the wheel and pads.
I have run Sram Code since they came on my YT Capra pro. Now run them on my Specialized with Magara floating disc 220mm and wouldn't run anything else. Parts are easy to get and rebuild. Pads only run sintered avid pads or Carbone lorraine VRX pads and can't fault them and to get very good bit point I shim out the pads 20 thou alloy shims as the pads wear in the wet which is great to reface the disc's like new.
When I had Sram Guide R's I was researching new brakes and liked the feel of my Guide's but I felt that it was never a consistent feel and had a wavering bite point. I bled them multiple times and they would be OK for a ride or two then go back to being inconsistent again. The biggest issue was that I was always thinking of how the brakes felt during my rides--not something you want to be thinking of on the trail, especially the downhills. I only want to be thinking of the ride, not how my equipment is performing.
I was really considering the Code RSCs but went with the Hayes Dominion A4s for a couple reasons. Primarily, I was worried that the Code's would have the same issues with inconsistent feel. Also, I read good reviews of the Dominion's and felt confident throwing down $500 for something I didn't "need". Lastly, I thought I'd try a different brand other than the big guys, Shimano & Sram, for the sake of it.
I have been very happy with the Dominion's. Ever since getting them, they have always performed consistently and the best part is that I never think about them and how they feel out on the trail. I haven't even had to bleed them at all since installation, either, whereas I've bled my Guide's probably 4-5x in the same time period. Hayes customer support has been spot on, as well. I agree, however, that removal of the brake pads from the bottom is really annoying. Everytime I need to pull them, I try from the top, fighting them until I remember, "Oh yeah, from the bottom!" All-in-all, I've been happy with my Dominions.
Wouldn’t compare the code rsc to the guide r, I own both and the guides are waaay less consistent.
The Dominions work really well and feel wonderful, glad you're digging them!
- Dan at Fanatik
@@fuegochicken3611 True, I knew they probably couldn't be compared directly. At ~$500 I wasn't confident taking that risk that they wouldn't exhibit the same behavior. Thanks for the antidote--sounds like I probably would have been happy with the Code RSCs if I did end up going that way.
Currently on Tech3 Hope V4s, after the Dominions were really lacking in power having 203mm rotors front and back, also had Shimano and Magura brakes
Hope's are the best so far, the lever feel, the power and control, the adjustability, beautiful design and the ease of working on them.
I've gone the other way, from Hope to Hayes. The Hayes have way more power and bite. Hope felt pathetic in comparison.
@@christophermarshall2701 interesting, which model Hope brake you had and what rotor/pad combo were you using?
@@lexusstefan927 I was using Tech E4s with sintered pads on 203mm rotors. Modulation wasn't bad but always felt full power wasn't accessible. I know that if I pull the Dominion's lever it *will* slow me down, quickly.
RSCs are the best "all around" high-end brake, and definitely love the carbon lever blade upgrades, but these brakes are susceptible to fade on long descents. Not sure those new thicker rotors will do the trick? Got some TRP Dh-evos coming, if they don't beat the RSCs, I'll definitely stick with them. Like the power of XTRs, but the intermittent bite point is too dangerous of a feature to accept...
had problems with brake fade on 5k descents, got the hs2's and it's better to the point I don't even get arm pump like I used too...
@@acarp4766 I (and my son’s riding crew) have found the new rotor makes a difference and adding MTX Bakes “Gold” pads for Code increased stopping power, reduced fade further and retained the modulation. Truly sweet now for this ebike riding 190 pound rider.
Like the Code RSC modulation but Hayes Dominion just feel better...plus easy to bleed and tend to be maintenance free. Either of these good enough for me
Reach and contact (free stroke) something every good brake should have. A friend from Austria told me he had ppl not being able to stop with sram brake's while those who used Shimano rarely had problems.
I got Shimano as well (M7120). Never made me any troubles.
Dan is way off here... the best brakes are and will ever be the heels of my shoes. Been using them since prior to puberty when crushed the local jumps on the huffy BMX with the sparkle banana seat. Highly adjustable, no bleeding, parts (new shoes) are ubiquitous at all local shops and universal compatibility with all bikes. "Its not the bike its the rider!!"
Hey, cheers to that! Run what ya brung!
- Dan at Fanatik
HAHA ROFL my man!
I just bail.
_"send me postcards biches"_
That’s how you mess up your shoes
Being a mineral oil guy (set in my ways, useless to try and talk me away) I am interested in SRAM's new DB8 brake. Also, I know that SRAM's official word is that their "upper end brakes will continue with DOT fluid", but I'm betting if I'm lucky enough to be able to look back at this comment in 6 years, they will have switched their entire line over to mineral oil. So for now, it's XT8100s for me.
A fine brake, and I won't try and talk you away from it! The DB8 does look interesting, but I really keep coming back to that easy peasy contact point adjust as a feature I don't want to forego. Cheers!
- Dan at Fanatik
DB8 will def lack power, designed for entry level commuter bikes. I dislike the imaginary bite point adjustment and wandering lever bite on XT
@@seanhornchek6440 Agreed with the weird gimmick bite point adjuster but I never had the bite point wander, even on 12km+ descends in the alps I haven't had problems on properly bled Shimano brakes.
@@seanhornchek6440 Way more than 'commuter bikes'. They'll be OE on lots of motor assisted MTBs as well as MTBs. I also had the wondering bite point issue on my Shimanos until I stopped doing the 5 minute lever flick bleed with the pads installed and wheels on the bike. Doing that overfills the system and as soon as I stopped listen to the internet and bled them exactly like Shimano states the WBP vanished. I can't stress that enough to anyone reading this that has Shimano brakes.
@@ThunderStruckMTB This. You can still do the lever bleed, but _always_ push the pistons back before closing off the screw to avoid overfill. This applies to all brakes. I'm a Magura man myself. They say they're hard to bleed, but they're the easiest.
@Fanatik SO I was going to buy the TRP DH-R EVO, But the shop I went through didn't carry them. My big concern is that hand fatigue. I'd Like to See you do a side by side comparison of RSC's and the TRP DH-R EVO. I know the TEMPs Are significantly lower on the TRP's. I heard that TRP's have the strong BITE of a MT7 with the modulation feel of an RSC. Though you can't adjust the contact point on the TRP. I also heard the TRP's run a plastic part where the break line goes into the lever, which is prone to cracking while the RSC run rubber. I have to see someone run the TRP DH-R EVO with their top MTB Rotors, and the MTX pads. I am also curious to know if running HOPE Floating ROTORs or the SRAM HS2 are better? Can we reduce the fade & temperature on RSC's by upgrading to the SRAM HS2 Rotors and MTX pads? This is super important to me to make sure I GET the top end brakes on the first time around as I can't afford to buy two sets of Brakes at those High Prices. I've seen RICH saying TRP are the best, & you say the CODE RSC's are the best. But you guys don't do any comparison between the two. would be nice to see you both go out and ride each set of brakes do a temperature test at the bottom of the run, both running the upgraded rotors and pads. Another thingI am curious about are if the TRP's will fit any ENDURO or DH bike like the SRAM CODE RSC do. So many things unanswered. No one seems to compare these two side by side & it is way overdue. Posting this up top and here in hopes of DAN & RICH taking out their bikes. Then having a discussion about why or why not you choose one over the other. If you do this you will be the first and only Channel to compare the SRAM CODE RSC & the TRP DH-R EVO. I had just ordered the Code RSC's & was about to order New Hope Floating Rotors & MTX pads, but I want to make sure I have the best of both worlds. I have severe Health issues so I run an EMTB Enduro/DH/Trail bike. I can't afford Multiple bikes so I need one that can handle all 3 disciplines. I have crappy G2 R's that came on my Enduro, & tbh they are garbage. No modulation, not much braking power, & the rear brake with the centerline rotor is spongey as heck no matter how many times I've had it Bled. I thought Going to the New Code RSC's would be a major upgrade, & it will. But with the price between TRP & SRAM nearly the same. I am wondering if I should return my CODE RSC's & wait for you guys to release a comparison video. Probably going to be calling FANATIK on Monday. I should weigh about 170lbs but with my health issues I've dropped down to 138lbs. Last time I weighed under 140 I was in 7th grade LOL. So for me perfomance is super important. Also being able to use same brakes across multiple disciplines is very very important. I've heard of people running Shigura(Magura Shimano mix) but I really don't like Shimanos AT ALL. Please do a comparison video.
When I see Bleed edge caliper, I just want to throw it in the trash and not deal with it, but I have to. I've made more mess bleeding DOT brakes than bleeding other mineral oil based brakes. I've had more clogged and blocked sram brakes, that made my bleed hose explode and cover everything in dot. I just hate working with any DOT brake.
If you are careful enough, you can bleed/flush shimano brake system without single drop comming out of the caliper. Although, you shouldnt bleed caliper with discs/pads nearby.
I ran some Guide RSCs on my hardtail for few months, and I felt that they are not enough (Im 70kg, 203/180 rotors) I feel that my MT520 have more stopping power.
But the best feeling brake i've ever touched is the Dominion A4. Too bad its DOT based, and I dont want it in my personal life
The lever have really light feel, which is amazing, they have alot of stopping power and lots of modulation, and they still have every single adjustability you can want.
Finding spare parts (hoses) in Bulgaria is almost impossible. As for magura, shimano etc. you can easily find replacement, even make custom one
I got pissed at pinkbike, that they somehow decided that the Code RSC is the best brake, even though it was like in the middle in terms of stopping power, and they used custom pads for the test. The whole shit sounded like sram shilling.
Completely agree with this video. Though, i've never ran Hope or Hayes but have ridden bikes with them. My long term experience is between Shimano and SRAM. The SRAM Code and G2's are just the best brakes out there. I understand that some folks just are not comfortable working with DOT fluid, but the SRAM Bleeding Edge kit makes it virtually mess free and a perfect bleed every single time.
I couldn’t agree more. Massive code fan here. Heaps of power and I’m weighing a ton. Adjustability is pure. And bleeding is to easy. Great review Dan 🤙🏽💯
Great video 👍🏻
What are those black grips?
Those are the Lizard Skin Charger Evo grips
www.fanatikbike.com/products/lizard-skins-charger-evo-lock-on-grips
The RSC's are great breaks, not a fan of the corrosive DOT fluid, as I have never seen a set of SRAM breaks over a year old that isn't having the paint eaten away. That said, the contact point adjustment is the only one on the market I have found to actually work. For me personally it's Magura MT7 HC3's all day long on every bike I own, the lever shape is perfect, the adjustability is better than the Codes with reach and leverage adjustment, mineral oil, super easy to bleed a T25 handles all the bolts and more power than the Codes, also if you don't like the HC3 lever there are a bunch of other options, and they have been on 2 mm thick rotors for a long time.
Sram Code RSC's are my favored brakes..
Question: understand the Reach adjust and Contact (and use them), but the SwinglLink adjust(?) is still a mystery. *Is* that Swing-link adjustable? If so, how?
Shimano brakes are way easier to bleed. just hook up a full syringe at the caliper and push oil through it. Any bubbles will exit at the bleed funnel on the lever. That's it. no gloves needed, unlike with DOT... I use sunflower seed oil based brake oil manufactured as a mineral oil substitute. so you can lick of your fingers after bleeding :D
I love mine .. Hayes Dominion A4 👊🏻
question: why does he mention the swinglink as one of 3 adjustments? is it adjustable? can't find anything online!
Great review good advice thinking about buying a stumpjumper pro but it comes with sram g2 rsc brakes what's your take on these brakes running shimano at the moment don't want to spend a lot of money on a bike then have to change the brakes because they aren't powerful enough I've heard they are down power? 🤔
The g2's are not going to be as powerful as Code's. They are still a 4 piston brake but the pistons are much smaller. Smaller surface area means less stopping power. If I was going to do a 4 piston brake I'd go all in with the Code's over G2's
After splashing DOT fluid everywhere trying to bleed Hayes Stroker brakes (worst bleed experience EVER), I vowed to remain in mineral oil land. Shimano Saints remain my bulletproof favorite
Any specific instructions on how to adjust the CAM portion of the lever?
There is one issue with rsc, and all sram breakes, the plastic plunger expands in the heat and locks the break. Replaced the stock plungers with aluminium replacement, no more sticky levers
Easy fix, but it’s true. I believe Sram has fixed that issue with newer codes RSC. Rebuild kit runs about $20ish or so. Super easy and it doesn’t take that long to do and re-bleed. Definitely have to look into the aluminum plunger kit for mine.
Where do you get the aluminum version? Do you have a link?
I have RSC’s the most recent ones and it happened to mine too, I brought the titanium plungers, no problems so far🤞🏽
you can do that? with an aluminum plunger? where do we acquire this magical component
@@josiahmedina4972 please show us the link of the upgrade kit :). Thanks
What grips are you using?
Out of the topic, What's the brand and model of your frame? It's looks really good. Thanks
Dan is riding the new Revel Rail 29er!
@Fanatik Bike Co. Can you please show the adjustments on the S or swing length portion you mentioned?
So you can't adjust the swing link. Can adjust reach adjust and pad contact, but the swing link is just an added feature of the RSC lever that you won't find on Code R's
@@FanatikBikeCo ok that makes sense why i didnt see an adjustment. If they threaded it and had a set screw in that pivot where it contacts the piston you could easily have another adjustment point.
170 lbs of trail thrashing fury...
Dan barely uses his breaks unlike the riders that just can't have enough stopping power. The fact of the matter is the only time Dan's breaks ever get hot is when he gets stuck riding behind the dude that just can't have enough stopping power. This fun little fact has been fact checked by the fact checkers as a matter of fact...
It's true.
Unrelated, did you know that "factoid" means "an invented fact believed to be true because it appears in print?"
Who knew!
Cheerio, ol chap - Dan at Fanatik
www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/factoid
@@FanatikBikeCo I'm rocking the Code RSC with HOPE rotors and organic pads then added the electronic control unit for the ABS conversion. I dubbed it the zero buzzkill...
@@lilblaster22 Gotta love some MTBABS. Gamechanger.
- Dan
@@FanatikBikeCo mountain babs
Rocky Dennis says buy code brakes I love it I don't mind😂
Also ambidextrous brake levers. Easy for rental shops to switch the brakes around for customers.
That is a great point! Easy to flip flop them which you can't do with a-lot of other brands brakes.
I use code rsc and they are the best brakes I’ve ever ridden
Best combination for me is magura mt7 calipers with shimano xt levers, With 220mm rotors front and rear... I'm 115kgs and it works great for me, I've tried sram but didn't like the fact you had to pull the Lever almost to the bar before it got a decent bite..
You can adjust that distance with the "Contact Adjust" knob. I have heard a lot of good things about that combo though.
- Dan at Fanatik
I have Guide RSC on a bike and I’ve had to made the bite point and still adjust the lever far out to keep it from pulling to the bar before getting max stopping power. There’s tons of free play in it, and I’ve read this being a problem online. I’m planning to do a bleed and install new pads and thicker HS2 rotors to get a more immediate bite point and fix this issue.
I’m curious on why you say the HS2 would have more power. I don’t see how thickness would improve that. Should reduce fade and have a more immediate bite point, but not power as those mechanics haven’t changed.
You know, I don't know exactly why, but I suspect it's primarily due to smaller and rearranged cut-outs on the rotor, which improve surface area. SRAM does claim a 7% increase in power for a given size of rotor, but I was referring to perceived power as commented on by friends and coworkers. For them, having less brake fade could have played into the perception of more power over time.
- Dan at Fanatik
like to see the great adjustment screws beeing adjusted after lets say 6 Month when there seized
They can get stuck if you go all the way to the end, but here's a little trick to un-stick them:
czcams.com/users/clipUgkxpMCg2OBstdukLzLfWjqcje3nBUMta6GF
Cheers - Dan at Fanatik
Shimano Deore XT have the reach and free stroke adjustments. Is that similar to SRAM’s R and C acronyms?
Exactly correct! Their free stroke adjustment is not tool free, and it doesn't work as well as SRAM's, but yep, that's what it it.
- Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo Might try these brakes on the next build/upgrade.
I have hayes dominion A4 and I'm looking to go back to code RSC. I had no clue about the swing link adjustment, how is that done?
Swing Link is not an adjustment, it's just a cam that changes the leverage of the lever on the lever piston through the stroke. It just changes the power delivery compared to the non-Swing Link version.
- Dan at Fanatik
Anybody know the song in the beginning?
I agree in the match-maker ability of SRAM is nice but a lot after market connectors are available. Shimano is in most shops. I don’t like Magura but like Hope and Formula that are hard to source parts from.
Personally I like my Shimano and Hopes. My friends run Hayes and Hopes but none of us like SRAM, just to many past issues on many of their models a few years ago.
What is the difference between Codes and the new G2s?
Can you do somthing for me. I need the dimensions of the brake pad of the SRAM RSC. Precisely the width of the friction material what has direct contact to the disc. I need this dimension because I want to compare the width of the SRAM CODE pad to the Shimano Deore XT pad. Next reason is that I want to use the brand new SRAM HS2 Disc on my bike. If you have a Pad for the CODE RSC please take a caliper and meassure the friction material not the width of the steel support plate.
the one downside to the SRAM Codes is the proprietary banjo fitting on the brake pot end of the hose. If your bike shop doesn't stock it, you're SOL. Wish that part was a bit more generic, otherwise its a fanatic brake system.
True story. Annoying all the SRAM brakes don't use the same one.
- Dan at Fanatik
Just bought some code r from you guys. I have the r's on 2 other bikes. I was afraid if I bought rsc's I would want them on all my bikes.
The Rs are great, don't stress it!
- Dan at Fanatik
Another thing to note is that all sram brakes are reversible which i think is pretty cool
Agreed! Makes it easy to swap parts around.
- Dan at Fanatik
SRAM says they aren't reversible. So I am very confused with this comment
@@Indictedheart I believe there are some which aren’t but all of the models ive had (code r, code rsc, g2 ultimate, level tlm, guide rsc) have all been reversible
Have you tried a Shigura brake set-up? Shimano Saint levers and Magura MT7 calipers with 220mm rotors?
Have you tried the hc3 levers? They're better than Shigura. Firmer lever feel, more adjustability, and easier to bleed using the stock master cylinder. Tried Shigura for a few months, felt sh*t by comparison.
@@dukeofmtb Never tried HC3 levers. I didn't care for the Magura levers that came stock on my bike Really like the feel and performance of Shimano Saint levers, never had any issues whatsoever. Will see if the HC3 are available and give them a try. Don't really care for the Magura brake housing material. Guys who work on all my bikes say they strip easy and pain in the arse to bleed.
@@SDmountainbiker Yeah, the stock levers suck. It's hc3 or bust for me. The regular HC levers are fine on the hardtail though. In regard to bleed, they're actually easier than Shimanos. It's just that hardly anyone knew the trick with them until more recently. I happen to have a video about it on my channel. I get a perfect bleed every time. Its almost effortless. Take a peak: czcams.com/video/Bl8PChRadX0/video.html It might help your decision.
The bleed port on the lever end _is_ easy to strip. But it's intentional. It's made of a softer plastic so as not to damage the MC if someone screws it on too tight. I've never stripped one and I have Magura on all our bikes. You just gotta screw it on flush and stop turning at the tiniest bit of resistance. If you do strip one, it's replaceable.
Me and the wife together have been in dozens of mishaps on our bikes with Maguras. Only ever had one lever break, and it would have broken no matter the brand. My brother happened to break a Shimano lever once after just clipping a tree, so...
@@dukeofmtb Appreciate the video link! Been mountain biking before Rockshox invented the 1st Judy front suspension fork and think hydraulic brake innovation, 12 speed drivetrains and dropper post have transcended mountain biking. I'm pushing 60 y/o and transitioned to emtbs only about 2 years ago. Only trust Magura's to stop these beast!
@@SDmountainbiker Glad I could help. 😁👍
Code R's came on my Slash, used them for a bunch of rides, but took em off and threw on Magura MT5's with the HC lever I had on my last bike. In my opinion the braking feedback is much better on the Magura as well as power. I'll likely never change em out, love those brakes. I am envious of all the adjustability of the RSC's though!
Awesome 😊
Can you do a tutorial about the spring adjustment in the lever. There is very little info on how the spring works.
Sorry, which spring are you referring to? Here's a diagram, you can tell me which number:
www.bike-components.de/assets/p/i/1280x960/215980.jpg
- Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo number 2. The one that was mentioned in the video. When he said code rsc and the s stand for spring.
@@wangelite5279 Well, encompassed in #2 is both the Reach Adjust, or "R," which I cover here:
czcams.com/users/clipUgkxSzYE0x63l_0rNdKpkCHZc9ywSh9PMpam
...
AND Swing Link, or "S," (not "spring") which is not actually and adjustment, but a feature that affects the lever's leverage throughout the stroke, which I cover here:
czcams.com/users/clipUgkxcpaWwxRBjc6tAJiHZUEeqqlfOcWP5SJZ
Does that help?
- Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo Nice! Thanks for replying. I was thinking the swing link can adjusted to make a lighter pull.
@@wangelite5279 Nope, it is simply an improvement over the standard "R" model of brake. That said, it does affect the fell of the lever pull. So in a sense, it does do that. It's just not adjustable.
- Dan at Fanatik
Does back wheel have quick release?
Love the brakes however perplexed that you use the contact point adjuster. The thing is constantly stuck... Other than that amazing brakes!
all of mine work amazing accross 4 pairs.
@@seanhornchek6440 yep, living in belgium pretty much 8 out of 12 months is mud... Not saying they are bad but it is annoying
They can get stuck if you go all the way to the end, but here's a little trick to un-stick them:
czcams.com/users/clipUgkxpMCg2OBstdukLzLfWjqcje3nBUMta6GF
Pump the lever slightly and gently wiggle it lose 🤣. It’s drying up here so mine have gone from stuck to rattling.
I have SRAM G2 brakes. Good brakes but lack power and seem to rub when hot. I hear the Code is a better brake. I need to try them.
Make sure you don't have organic pads in there (which are stock), and if you do, swap to metallic pads. G2s are fine, they just have a bad rep.
- Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo Replaced them with Shimano 4 pot. Fixed my issues. I have never tried SRAM Codes.
I'm still between these and the TRP DHR-EVO.
Has Rich not convinced Dan to make the switch or try them out? What are your thoughts?
Ha ha I still can't convince Dan to get the TRP's but my persistence is paying off with my other co workers! Maybe Dan will see the light one day (I have to admit though, I do own a set of Code RSC's on my hardtail and I don't mind them. No TRP brake, but it gets the job done pretty well too)
-Rich
@Fanatik maybe Dan is scared...scared of falling for the TRPs. Jk
I saw Sram is on sales so that's why I'm considering the Codes RSC. Thank for the videos BTW.
What's brakes are Best for learning wheelie mtb, not sharp and smootest
Ya I totally run a complete brake bleed kit, and every spare part my bike needs every ride every time, like 2 tires, 2 extra rims, the whole tool kit, extra levers, carbon fiber repair kit, all the chemicals to go with it, back in the day bike shops just stocked parts for this reason and there was no internet to compete with. Internet is great but it’s killing our local economies. And yes I’m guilty like everyone for buying stuff online. That’s why I drive Subaru, and use interchangeable parts because of this reason of being able to find parts anywhere at any reasonable time. If I’m having to bleed my brakes that often then it’s time to investigate why and make a change instead of white knuckling it all the way down rock slabs. Plus top feed brake pads, we all know that with interchangeability like that I’ll run organic and sintered varying conditions and riding
would these hs2 rotors be compatible with sram db8 brakes?
What's the song name at the beginning?
All valid points but a well tuned MT7 with HC3 lever is hard to beat.
There is definitely a lot of people who swear by the MT7's! Personally I'm not a fan but I know a lot of folks who are!
-Rich
I have code r, will the code RSC be compatible with the code r caliper. What is the difference between code r and code rcs caliper?
They are the same, the difference is in the lever body.
- Dan at Fanatik
Code RSC rocks. Have them on my Yeti
Hey I got the CODA R, I got them on my trail bike and my DH bike. But there way to spongie. Are the RCS way better then the R?
You'll definitely notice a lot less of that "spongy" feel with the RSC over the R.
You may have dirty rotors or pads. Biggest probem is oil. Try brake cleaner spray. Helps with squeeking brakes too. Iam 90 kg and my brakes are perfectly strong.
I blew up my trp rear piston and caliper
(a chunk of aluminum is missing one piston is out, don't ask how idk)
I just installed a rsc up front and put the remaining trp up back.
I should have replaced both👌I didn't knew they were that good I tend not to believe hype...
Hahaha, to some extent it's what you're used to. If you ask Rich he'd tell you Codes are trash and TRPs are the hottest thing since sliced bread.
- Dan P.
Have you tried Cascade's calipers?
I have not, no.
- Dan at Fanatik
So disappointed my ‘22 Specialized Stumpjumper Evo Expert came with SRAM RS in lieu of RSC. At $6,300 price point should have the RSCs.
Yeah its always a bummer when a manufacture skimps on brakes to hit a certain price point! If you need to pick up a set or RSC's we have them in stock now!
www.fanatikbike.com/products/sram-code-rsc-disc-brake
My same story. 2021 specilized turo levo SL carbon Comp w/ Scram guide RE brakes. Rear brake lever goes to the bar on very long 20-30 % grade desents. When buying the bike the dealer to me how fantastic the bike is. I bought it back with the brake problem and they said the brakes are junk and I should buy shimano brakes! I hate I have to spend $500 on brakes on a new $8500. Bike. Still can't decide what to get.
@@rolandaber5322 I’m likely going to Shimano. I have SLX 4 piston on my Giant that were flawless on long descents with the Shimano Ice Tech rotors. This ‘22 SJ Evo Expert is my first go with SRAM brakes.
Code RSC with some MTX pads has been incredible. Quiet, smooth, powerful, with awesome modulation
So, I’m in the market for some new brakes. I am currently running Code r’s
And want similar modulation, but more power. I’ve been looking at Magura mt7’s and Trp DH-R evos.
After watching this video, I might be considering Code rsc’s. What do you guys recommend?
I recommend forgetting about Magura.
Shigura for life. Saint levers and MT7 calipers. Compatible with the right Jagwire hose and adapter. Royal blood mineral oil and the brakes are light switches.
Try starting with some aftermarket brake pads, like MTX Golds... I find they're night and day more bite-y than the OEM SRAM pads in my Code RSCs, even with the new HS2 rotors.
You'll definitely feel more power out of the RSC compared to the R's. So if you want a similar feel and more bite RSC's might be the ticket!
Trp DHR Evo no question: I’ve run Magura mt5 HC, code r, code rsc, g2 rsc, and now trp and will never switch
I am waiting to see the new tech 4 Hopes. I am in the states but I feel a wiggle every time I see Hope products.
Hope makes some great stuff! We are hoping to see those new brakes in the coming months.
Song?
How are G2 vs codes I have G2s right now but they don’t feel the most powerful would throwing h2 rotors and mtx pads fix that
So the G2 is also a 4 piston brake, but the pistons in the caliper on the G2's are smaller so you'll never get the same power as Code's. You can certainly do the hs2 rotor and a different brake pad compound (like the gold MTX pads), but you'll still never be able to get the same power as the Code because the Code has a larger piston. Larger piston gives you more surface area, and therefore more power.
@@FanatikBikeCo if I’m missing power do you think it’s worth it switching rotors and pads or just use that money to get a Trp dh evo or code
SRAM has an amazing warranty!