Thanks for watching! If you are looking for a way to support the channel consider shopping for your Powersports parts at The D Zone. I also put together a list of my most commonly used tools for you guys to reference- thed.zone/product-tag/tool-collection/?count=36&orderby=popularity&ref=AP34
Good video . I worked for a honda bike shop in the 80s. (Jeff Leisk was a customer)... We had some plugs for each end of the pipe, one plug had a air fitting, with about 60 psi pressure and play the heat from a blowtorch on the dent...Dent gone... Cover the plugs with rags incase they blow out as a safety precaution.. Also tip out an old lead acid battery and use the acid to remove the surface rust..:) I am 60 now so I can only watch you young guys have all the fun.
Awesome job it makes me proud to see a young guy with such skill and ingenuity. This is how you make dirt biking affordable and custom. Pro circuit and fmf charge extra for a raw pipe. Kid im super impressed great job!!!
You can remove rust simply by electrolysis, no need to scratch rusted parts, grinding eats specially the old metals, think about electrolytically removing rust
Nice work on the pipe. This is how im going to restore my '84 125 pipe. Has a fat dent in it and this is a money saving way of fixing it. Run the pro circuit. You put alot of work and pride into that one and your great work should be seen to the world bro. Good job🤙
if you want the weld to turn out better buy a dual flow regulator for your shielding gas , and back purge the inside of the pipe .. works very well on stainless .. or any closed pipe
Plug ends, add air 50 psi and heat up with acetylene torch, the dents pop out back to original like new shape ....LOL. You definitely took the long and complicated way around. I got my plugs, air nipple, some hose clamps at Home depot for a few bucks.
@@adampaganelli4891 I used to ride and race it's nice to see a guy that's mechanically inclined definitely makes u a better rider understanding your machine awesome job
Defo the raw pipe. Im currently doing a standard pipe it was pretty badly dented. I used a blowout kit (compressed air and heat). Im tempted to cut it out and use the hammer like you have done.
The science behind an expansion chamber is proper flow. The aerodynamics of the interior of that pipe is definitely compromised now, due to the welds. I would imagine that the FMF will give you more power now.
Small tip regarding cinematography, I think it’d be a good idea to show an example of what you do, then speed up the process. (When you were tig welding, it’d be nice to see you show the process slightly sped up at first, once we see firsthand what you’re doing, it’ll prevent potential questions regarding your process.)
Hi Adam Like your CZcams!!!! I will like to find out on a 1980 Suzuki 250 TS two stroke pipe and swap it out with a new model like the RM 250 two stroke 2008 model... The TS 250 pipe is so old and rusty...can not restore it?? and on performance wise? Thanks for the show
Want to see how the welds hold up the sugar inside the pipe at the welds are prone to cracking but that was a lot of work for basically visual improvement. Nicely done and good practice on filling the bigger gaps. If your welder has the ability to pulse that would be helpful with warping.
Adam that took a lot of talent. The pipe looks AMAZING! Try both then make your decision based on power characteristics and the kind of riding you do. I like pro circuit.
I have one question about this device which you use to clean the diffuser with a disc, how is it powered? Electric? Or maybe because of the compressed air in the compressor? Regards :)
Hi, I was wondering what settings you used for your tig (amperage? pulse? - if any & what kind rod are you using?) DC electrode negative i'm assuming? Just trying to get a general idea before i start tacking mine up. Great video by the way!
Man you have some serious mad welding skills and that PC pipe looks amazing!! As for running which pipe I would run the PC pipe but the FMF does have it's place too! I would say the PC pipe for tracks and the FMF for trails if you ride both. :)
I plan to use electrolysis to remove rust from my exhaust, which would be much easier, cheaper and less abrasive (targets only rust) than this approach. I'd love to see you experiment with it, as there is not a lot of information out there about it with respect to exhaust restoration specifically. In fact, I'd love to see you experiment with it on all steel parts.
Thanks for sharing. I have not heard of this method. I considered sand blasting or wet blasting which essentially would do the same thing. The reason why I did not is because the metal was pitted so it would be uneven after blasting
@@adampaganelli4891 Great! An additional benefit of this method is that is also dissolves the grease, dirt and carbon from the metal with virtually no work - just put it in electrolysis, and then powerwash and/or wipe off with scotchbrite. In other words, it makes sense even if you have to cut it open, as you don't have to do any other manual work (other than perhaps a little bit of polishing if you want to get that finish). In fact, one experiment I'd love to see you do is see how much carbon is possible to remove from the inside without cutting it up - if you have to cut it up anyways in order to fix the dent, you could see how effective this has been as an indication of what others who just want to clean the rust and carbon can expect. Maybe flushing it through with a power-washer is doable, or perhaps some other method using special brush etc. in order to remove loose dirt from the inside after electrolysis. Maybe there are some preventive measures to take, such as trying to spray the inside with WD40?
I de-carbon my pipe every 3-6 months. The easiest method I find, is to put a handful of nuts and bolts in there with half a ltre of petrol and plug both ends. Then I just shake/ roll it around (not violent enough to risk igniting the petrol) Empty the pipe and repeat if necessary
Great video! I am looking to refurb my FMF pipe. I do not have the welder tool to split open the pipe (it's not dented), but would you recommend getting the pipe cleaned up and polished BEFORE I add the torched lines on the welds or vice versa (Torch weld lines then polish)?
Yes, I would have to go over with a grinder anyways to get the finish I want anyways. So might as well do it with all one process. If I was painting the pipe I would have
Brandon Pivovarnik yup the new Milwaukee 12v right angle die grinder put ingersoll rand air tools to shame! Broader rpm range with more control, twice as smooth, nearly silent , no oiling/moistur. power draw.
Why anyone would buy a clear coated mild steel exhaust confuses me, it is going to rust after a few heat cycles. You might as well get it ceramic or aluminium coated.
Vouloir restaurer et redresser ce pot d'échappement c'est très bien, L'initiative es bonne. Mais tu aurais mieux fait d'évité de l'ouvrir et plutôt mettre de la pression d'air à l’intérieur et de le chauffer au endroit ou il était enfoncer Ça ce fait avec des kit qui existe et qui ce vende un peu partout sur le net. Ça t'aurais évité du travail en plus et aussi évité de faire des soudures esthétiquement approximative. Mais ça ne reste que mon avis.
The best way to avoid the rusting is to make sure you’re cleaning the metal after every ride doesn’t have to take long but just a few minutes with some scotch brite and cleaner. After this dry the pipe off with a rag and then spray some boeshield T9 ( you can buy one off of amazon ) and rub the boeshield around with a dry rag. That will make your pipe last just as long as if it were nickel plated. Eventually you may want buff the pipe again but with these steps you shouldn’t need to for at least a few seasons. Just remember to this Pretty soon after your done riding, the pipe will start to rust as soon as it gets moisture on it.
Pro Circuit, then beat the shit out of it and mount FMF. You got more skills than the majority of hacks online. Hope you make some dough with them. All HF metal fab equipment? How’s bout the TIG?
@@johnwhick4840 doesnt warp the pipe dodo boy, its basic science. when you seal off the outlets on the pipe and heat the dent only it pushes the dent out. heat expands metal. seems to me like you'd fuck your pipe up more by cutting off a section of it and re-welding it any oxygen acetylene torch is a very basic tool found in a workshop.
John Whick he wrecked that pipe way worse by cutting it up and welding it back together. He didn't keep the gaps even all the way around. So therefore he change the internal dimensions.
For the time it took you to do all that to that pipe you could have just bought a new one for about two hundred bucks dude $230 but I guess if you don't have no money then that's what you have to do you can still see the dents in it
Thanks for watching! If you are looking for a way to support the channel consider shopping for your Powersports parts at The D Zone. I also put together a list of my most commonly used tools for you guys to reference-
thed.zone/product-tag/tool-collection/?count=36&orderby=popularity&ref=AP34
Good video .
I worked for a honda bike shop in the 80s. (Jeff Leisk was a customer)...
We had some plugs for each end of the pipe, one plug had a air fitting, with about 60 psi pressure and play the heat from a blowtorch on the dent...Dent gone...
Cover the plugs with rags incase they blow out as a safety precaution..
Also tip out an old lead acid battery and use the acid to remove the surface rust..:)
I am 60 now so I can only watch you young guys have all the fun.
Pro Circuit everytime, can't beat them.
Probably the most labor intensive pipe restoration on youtube. Great work!
Thanks man!
Bro i have a 1995 yz250, has a full procircuit pipe. I watched your clip it convinced me to restore my pipe👍👍👍
Awesome job it makes me proud to see a young guy with such skill and ingenuity. This is how you make dirt biking affordable and custom. Pro circuit and fmf charge extra for a raw pipe. Kid im super impressed great job!!!
Thank you very much I’m glad you are enjoying the videos!
Run the custom pro Circuit pipe bc it’s your own custom bike so make it yours by putting the pipe you make on it
That’s a good point!
Run the Pro Circuit one, no doubt!
Agreed!
Pro circuit all the way
Wow that’s awesome! I’d absolutely run the Pro Circuit. Looks mint! Well done 👌
Thanks dude!
You can remove rust simply by electrolysis, no need to scratch rusted parts, grinding eats specially the old metals, think about electrolytically removing rust
Nice work on the pipe. This is how im going to restore my '84 125 pipe. Has a fat dent in it and this is a money saving way of fixing it. Run the pro circuit. You put alot of work and pride into that one and your great work should be seen to the world bro. Good job🤙
if you want the weld to turn out better buy a dual flow regulator for your shielding gas , and back purge the inside of the pipe .. works very well on stainless .. or any closed pipe
Nice work bro
Plug ends, add air 50 psi and heat up with acetylene torch, the dents pop out back to original like new shape ....LOL. You definitely took the long and complicated way around. I got my plugs, air nipple, some hose clamps at Home depot for a few bucks.
Restored Pro Circuit for sure! Awesome job.
Agreed! Thanks man
Definitely run the procircit if you want more mid to top end power
I like the pro circuit but you do what you want
Pro circuit looks sick!!
Thanks dude
WELL DONE 🇺🇸
Run the pro circuit dude of COURSE!
Dude you got some serious skills. Video is awesome great work again!
Appreciate that very much man!
@@adampaganelli4891 I used to ride and race it's nice to see a guy that's mechanically inclined definitely makes u a better rider understanding your machine awesome job
@jason2147 "ise a bag"?🤔
Defo the raw pipe. Im currently doing a standard pipe it was pretty badly dented. I used a blowout kit (compressed air and heat). Im tempted to cut it out and use the hammer like you have done.
The science behind an expansion chamber is proper flow. The aerodynamics of the interior of that pipe is definitely compromised now, due to the welds. I would imagine that the FMF will give you more power now.
Small tip regarding cinematography, I think it’d be a good idea to show an example of what you do, then speed up the process. (When you were tig welding, it’d be nice to see you show the process slightly sped up at first, once we see firsthand what you’re doing, it’ll prevent potential questions regarding your process.)
Great job on the pipe, Looks great 👍
Thank you!
SMS has my vote!
Whats the material of the pipe. I have a Beta rr 50 racing 2018 and I want to heaten the welds up to make them look like yours. Should I do it?
Pro circuit is the best, I love mine and wouldn’t go to any other brand
Grayson Johnson not even for a hand made comb pipe by “bills pipe”!?!?
I am with you, Pro Circuit and only Pro Circuit, all the other brands a just an after thought
Nice work. I’m impressed with your skills.
Thank you!
Do you find it easier to fix a bend in the neck, after removing dents this way? Then putting pieces back together? Thank you
satisfiying
Hi Adam
Like your CZcams!!!!
I will like to find out on a 1980 Suzuki 250 TS two stroke pipe and swap it out with a new model like the RM 250 two stroke 2008 model...
The TS 250 pipe is so old and rusty...can not restore it??
and on performance wise?
Thanks for the show
Want to see how the welds hold up the sugar inside the pipe at the welds are prone to cracking but that was a lot of work for basically visual improvement. Nicely done and good practice on filling the bigger gaps. If your welder has the ability to pulse that would be helpful with warping.
Yeah I pulled it when I went back over to make it less ugly haha
It's mild steel, back purge is not necessarily needed, no "sugaring"
@@maedmaex125 so false all metals will sugar on back if you penetrate thinner material.
Very nice series mate, excellent mechanic, doing a great job. Like the series.
Pro circuit would look good even though FMF is a nice brand
Is there anything I could use to protect this finish when I'm doing it? Mabye a clear coat or something like that.
Can I get some tips? My pipe is broken. I mean, something's moving and bouncing inside.
Really impressive work and video coverage of if. Run your Pro-cicuit. Keep up the good work man. Cheers from Scotland.
Great work buddy
Thanks dude!
Great channel! Fun watch!
Richtig geile Arbeit
PRO CIRCUIT
Hello Dude ! Verry nice video, great job !!! Bravo 👏 !!! 💯👌👏👍🤙😁😉💨💨💨
Adam that took a lot of talent. The pipe looks AMAZING! Try both then make your decision based on power characteristics and the kind of riding you do. I like pro circuit.
Top work👍
Use the one you restored but put the original pro circuit tag back on
Looks good but there is a lot of pitting in it and after scotching it, it will rust up again really fast
If you apply wd40 after washing I haven’t issues with pipe rusting
restored one. that's the one I like
Could you show us the dyno with and without the pipe?
I have one question about this device which you use to clean the diffuser with a disc, how is it powered? Electric? Or maybe because of the compressed air in the compressor? Regards :)
Compressed air 😎
Hi, I was wondering what settings you used for your tig (amperage? pulse? - if any & what kind rod are you using?) DC electrode negative i'm assuming? Just trying to get a general idea before i start tacking mine up. Great video by the way!
Man you have some serious mad welding skills and that PC pipe looks amazing!! As for running which pipe I would run the PC pipe but the FMF does have it's place too! I would say the PC pipe for tracks and the FMF for trails if you ride both. :)
What color did you use to make it so shiny, and did it resist the high temperatures?
Color?
1k subs with one video yes I mean spray
Jan Švanda he didnt paint it he just polished it
1k subs with one video well okey.. but that will rust
@@jansvanda2885 it wont if u treat it well and wash it regurarly
Looking good
Thats Pro-Fab ....looks like factory works
Run the pro circuit
Restored or not its a race bike! Test the two pipes .Power delivery over style every time!!!! There is some content I would like to check out.
I plan to use electrolysis to remove rust from my exhaust, which would be much easier, cheaper and less abrasive (targets only rust) than this approach. I'd love to see you experiment with it, as there is not a lot of information out there about it with respect to exhaust restoration specifically. In fact, I'd love to see you experiment with it on all steel parts.
Thanks for sharing. I have not heard of this method. I considered sand blasting or wet blasting which essentially would do the same thing. The reason why I did not is because the metal was pitted so it would be uneven after blasting
@@adampaganelli4891 Great! An additional benefit of this method is that is also dissolves the grease, dirt and carbon from the metal with virtually no work - just put it in electrolysis, and then powerwash and/or wipe off with scotchbrite. In other words, it makes sense even if you have to cut it open, as you don't have to do any other manual work (other than perhaps a little bit of polishing if you want to get that finish).
In fact, one experiment I'd love to see you do is see how much carbon is possible to remove from the inside without cutting it up - if you have to cut it up anyways in order to fix the dent, you could see how effective this has been as an indication of what others who just want to clean the rust and carbon can expect. Maybe flushing it through with a power-washer is doable, or perhaps some other method using special brush etc. in order to remove loose dirt from the inside after electrolysis. Maybe there are some preventive measures to take, such as trying to spray the inside with WD40?
I de-carbon my pipe every 3-6 months. The easiest method I find, is to put a handful of nuts and bolts in there with half a ltre of petrol and plug both ends. Then I just shake/ roll it around (not violent enough to risk igniting the petrol) Empty the pipe and repeat if necessary
Great video! I am looking to refurb my FMF pipe. I do not have the welder tool to split open the pipe (it's not dented), but would you recommend getting the pipe cleaned up and polished BEFORE I add the torched lines on the welds or vice versa (Torch weld lines then polish)?
Polish first. The polishing will remove the heat lines. Thanks for watching ✌🏼
Try metal etch some time works great removing rust and want change metal or scratch
Okay I will check it out. thanks!
Well since i cant do all this im either buying a new one or using the freezer method lol
Is good restoration exaust for 2 stroke 👍👍
Thank you!
Novice question, is there a reason you don't sandblast pipes? Just wondering, my first thought is always sandblast. Thanks for the videos! Great job!
Yes, I would have to go over with a grinder anyways to get the finish I want anyways. So might as well do it with all one process. If I was painting the pipe I would have
Nice job!
Thank you very much!
Nice work
A tub with a few gallons of vinegar and a day of soaking would’ve gotten all of that rust off np
Did they shoot you a new badge? Oh my only gripe is "ground" not "grinded."
is there any reason why you didn't sand/soda or aquablast it rather than using your die grinder?
If I blasted it would remove rust but I would have to it with a grinder anyways to remove the pitting
Correct me if I’m wrong but couldn’t you just mig it. Doesn’t look like aluminum🧐
Tig is a lot nicer
Pro circut
Are those Wurth gloves?
Das Teil schaut aus als hätte es Jahre in einem Sumpf gelegen.😂
Pro circuit
Run the pro circuit. Also what kind of air compression system do you use?
I run a medium size compressor it does 5.7cfm at 90 psi
all those tools I used there is electric versions of them if a decent compressor is out of your budget
Brandon Pivovarnik yup the new Milwaukee 12v right angle die grinder put ingersoll rand air tools to shame! Broader rpm range with more control, twice as smooth, nearly silent , no oiling/moistur. power draw.
I would just sand blast and powder coat it.
Pro circuit for sure , screw the fmf
Hahaha
This look awsome!
Thanks you!
T5 or T6
Steely Steelpecker.
Why anyone would buy a clear coated mild steel exhaust confuses me, it is going to rust after a few heat cycles.
You might as well get it ceramic or aluminium coated.
Decent welds? Those are horrid
how do you stop it rusting again?
After I wash it I spray some wd40 on there and wipe it down
Powder coat it.
Vouloir restaurer et redresser ce pot d'échappement c'est très bien,
L'initiative es bonne.
Mais tu aurais mieux fait d'évité de l'ouvrir
et plutôt mettre de la pression d'air à l’intérieur et de le chauffer au endroit ou il était enfoncer
Ça ce fait avec des kit qui existe et qui ce vende un peu partout sur le net.
Ça t'aurais évité du travail en plus et aussi évité de faire des soudures esthétiquement approximative.
Mais ça ne reste que mon avis.
Its cool brain new
Get a plunge hammer and you'll save yourself all that welding
Some rough arse pigeon shit welding there 🤣, it'll be full of snot on the inside 😬
I did this but my pipe is starting to rust
What have you done to maintain finish?
Adam Paganelli nothing really except wd40
Adam Paganelli what did you do
The best way to avoid the rusting is to make sure you’re cleaning the metal after every ride doesn’t have to take long but just a few minutes with some scotch brite and cleaner. After this dry the pipe off with a rag and then spray some boeshield T9 ( you can buy one off of amazon ) and rub the boeshield around with a dry rag. That will make your pipe last just as long as if it were nickel plated. Eventually you may want buff the pipe again but with these steps you shouldn’t need to for at least a few seasons. Just remember to this Pretty soon after your done riding, the pipe will start to rust as soon as it gets moisture on it.
Adam Paganelli what about some clear coat that is rated to 2000 degrees
👍👍😎 PC
Pro Circuit, then beat the shit out of it and mount FMF. You got more skills than the majority of hacks online. Hope you make some dough with them. All HF metal fab equipment? How’s bout the TIG?
Thank you! Tig is an everlast and mostly harbor freight fab stuff for now.
Run the fmf
FMF are for people who can't afford Pro Circuit
Plus don't put badge on its URS now not FMF.
ever heard of an oxygen/acetylene torch? clamp off both ends of the pipe and heat the dent up, takes 30 seconds, not 13 mins
ever fucked off? takes 30 seconds not 13 mins. If u want to warp the pipe and ruin it he wouldve used your torch
@@johnwhick4840 doesnt warp the pipe dodo boy, its basic science. when you seal off the outlets on the pipe and heat the dent only it pushes the dent out. heat expands metal. seems to me like you'd fuck your pipe up more by cutting off a section of it and re-welding it
any oxygen acetylene torch is a very basic tool found in a workshop.
John Whick he wrecked that pipe way worse by cutting it up and welding it back together. He didn't keep the gaps even all the way around. So therefore he change the internal dimensions.
Nice work!!
I made exhaust too, look my video
You do nice work man! I subscribed.
@@adampaganelli4891 thanks man
👏👏👏👍👌🇳🇴
Just buy a new one and ends the problem
That was so old
For the time it took you to do all that to that pipe you could have just bought a new one for about two hundred bucks dude $230 but I guess if you don't have no money then that's what you have to do you can still see the dents in it
Dude shut tf up.
#ratscuad
Fmf
Pro Circuit everytime
Use ur custom made Piper don't be dummy FMF isn't az good az wuu u did !