Mine just arrived yesterday and it too me two days to get it right. A word of advice - headrail: measure as close to the trim as possible to make it aesthetically correct (within 1/2 an inch). Too much space and the wall exposure looks like crap. Also, every home is not perfectly square, so you may need to modify the blinds after arrival, be prepared. My advice if you need to shorten the vanes- cut them with a sharp scissors (do not miter as they chip off at the corners). I also needed to install a spacer on the wall (between the wall and bracket) so the vanes would not hit the trim and screw up the closure operation. Right now with all modifications it is perfect, but don't expect a perfect fit from the factory.
Why in the world does this video suggest you just place the bracket 3-4 inches above the window frame? That is arbitrary and can lead to the blinds hanging too high above the floor. This is a recipe for improper installation and a do-over.
Since we already have precisely measured vanes, we'll have to determine the exact distance from the top of the rail to the top of the hanging vane so that it hangs exactly 1/2" off the floor. I measured the rail at 1.5" and the vane appears to hang down 1/4" from the bottom of the rail. So the top of the rail to the top of the vane is 1.75". So add that to your vane length plus the .5" floor clearance. So for me, standard slider, 82.5" + 1.75" + .5" means the top of the bracket inside, will be exactly at 84.75". Hope that helps, but I"m going to triple check before drilling a bunch of holes. :( When ordering the blinds they had you add a min of 2.5" for the bracket height and then subtract the .5" for the floor clearance. Anyway, good luck to everyone.
Because those brackets are being installed just past the outside edge of the door frame, it is very, very reasonable to expect that there is a stud there on each side of the door, and a "header" across the top. So no anchors are necessary. The anchors are for installing things where there is only drywall (you may already know that... I do not mean to insult your intelligence).
@@jaywebb4992 Thank you for the reply. I didn't consider that there would be a header to hold the screws; I found that out when doing my installation! I admit to lacking basic construction knowledge; just something I've never had any experience with.
@@whatwouldhousedo5136 I understand...I have very little experience myself. I've only recently discovered how wall/door/window framing is done as I took on, bravely, I guess, a wall building project at my house. I had to do quite a bit of research just to get STARTED :-)
WTF? The only thing that is important is to get the height of the rail correct. And your instructions are mark where you want your brackets? I think that's the problem. Where do I want the brackets? How do you measure where the brackets should be?
Mine just arrived yesterday and it too me two days to get it right. A word of advice - headrail: measure as close to the trim as possible to make it aesthetically correct (within 1/2 an inch). Too much space and the wall exposure looks like crap. Also, every home is not perfectly square, so you may need to modify the blinds after arrival, be prepared. My advice if you need to shorten the vanes- cut them with a sharp scissors (do not miter as they chip off at the corners). I also needed to install a spacer on the wall (between the wall and bracket) so the vanes would not hit the trim and screw up the closure operation. Right now with all modifications it is perfect, but don't expect a perfect fit from the factory.
Thank you for this video! I was able to successfully finish installing my blinds with the steps you showed here!
That was perfect, thanks!
Thank You!
Excellent
i was wondering the same thing, i need anchors to install
Why in the world does this video suggest you just place the bracket 3-4 inches above the window frame? That is arbitrary and can lead to the blinds hanging too high above the floor. This is a recipe for improper installation and a do-over.
Right you are. It had to be said. It is completely arbitrary and more complex than dipicted here.
Since we already have precisely measured vanes, we'll have to determine the exact distance from the top of the rail to the top of the hanging vane so that it hangs exactly 1/2" off the floor. I measured the rail at 1.5" and the vane appears to hang down 1/4" from the bottom of the rail. So the top of the rail to the top of the vane is 1.75". So add that to your vane length plus the .5" floor clearance.
So for me, standard slider, 82.5" + 1.75" + .5" means the top of the bracket inside, will be exactly at 84.75". Hope that helps, but I"m going to triple check before drilling a bunch of holes. :( When ordering the blinds they had you add a min of 2.5" for the bracket height and then subtract the .5" for the floor clearance. Anyway, good luck to everyone.
What do you do if you don’t have an additional 3 inch height from the top of the window up I have maybe an inch and a half before I hit the ceiling
Why does this show screwing the bolts directly into the drywall? Wouldn't you use those plastic drywall anchors?
Because those brackets are being installed just past the outside edge of the door frame, it is very, very reasonable to expect that there is a stud there on each side of the door, and a "header" across the top. So no anchors are necessary. The anchors are for installing things where there is only drywall (you may already know that... I do not mean to insult your intelligence).
@@jaywebb4992 Thank you for the reply. I didn't consider that there would be a header to hold the screws; I found that out when doing my installation! I admit to lacking basic construction knowledge; just something I've never had any experience with.
@@whatwouldhousedo5136 I understand...I have very little experience myself. I've only recently discovered how wall/door/window framing is done as I took on, bravely, I guess, a wall building project at my house. I had to do quite a bit of research just to get STARTED :-)
One of the best interaction I seen in CZcams comments section 👍
WTF? The only thing that is important is to get the height of the rail correct. And your instructions are mark where you want your brackets? I think that's the problem. Where do I want the brackets? How do you measure where the brackets should be?