Installing Radiant Floor Heat in my new DREAM SHOP (Plus Concrete Prep)
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- čas přidán 17. 11. 2022
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Our new single Living Stereo made it into the video at 21:56 . Also the music video is now LIVE on CZcams. Thank you to Matt and all the Diesel Creek viewers for all the support and kind words. You have given our music a place to shine. We appreciate you!
Thank YOU! Love your music! 👍
Your music is very cool and fits well with Matt and his channel! ♪ ♫
Here is the link to the video. Make sure you watch all the way to the end for the funny scene 😆czcams.com/video/aKM03Q5i4ss/video.html
@@DieselCreek 🤣🤣 Awesome
Your Music Flows with Matt’s Videos so well seems like a perfect fit, I’m digging it just like so many other good Folks. Looking forward to the Future of your Music along with all the Content Flowing out of the Shop!
You know much Like Ole’ Mortske, Matt’s Always a Week away from Loosing the New Shop!
Love the absolute certainty Matt feels that his wife doesn't watch his videos so he can surprise her with her gift on xmas that he share with all of use in November 😂
Oh I’m certain lol
@@DieselCreek what about her friends and family lol.will they not let the cat out the bag. excellent video matt thank you.
That is funny, but females just don't understand lol
@sonic, thanks for using "xmas" instead of the overused "holiday"
I did radiant heat for quite a number of years, and let me tell you, there's NOTHING like radiant heat. And with a cement floor, it's GREAT!! I always promised myself that when I finally got my own home, thats what I would put in it, and I did!!
That PEX tubing is definitely a two man job ! That turn table was pure ingenious genius !
I have a commercially built version, I lay this pipe a hand full of times a year in Alberta canada. Do a slab that size in about 6 hours alone strapping to rebar. I love this style foam when the customers are willing to spring for it.
I reckon he copied Jesse Muller's pex coil turntable
My brother worked for an electrician, and he instructed all his guys to buy any "sit and spin" toy from the 70's. He used them for unspooling wire the same way you are doing pex
As an electrician, this type of thing (albeit on a slightly smaller scale) is nothing new.
It's a good idea to have the trough drains feed to a catch basin before running into the pipe. That way you have a way to filter dirt and debris. You won't need to worry about backups and cleaning the lines as often. Not going to lie, I am very jealous of your dream shop. Thanks for the amazing content!
Probably too late now, but the way the Detail Geek has done his is probably the way to go.
That's good advice. I would add that Matt should, as a matter of some urgency, install some form of heavy duty barrier around the small section of wall between the doors at the west? end. Sooner or later, somebody is going to hit that and it would be better to bounce off rather than bring it down.
@@robt2151 yeah add bollards or uprights pipes to deflect stuff, jersey barriers?
I would suggest that you run the drain lines in to a small basin that you can set up as an oil-water separator to catch any oils, greases, etc.. Also it will catch any sediment.
You "do not want" the state EPA on your behind because you left a "sheen" on the creek (someone would classify it as a navigable waterway and it will result in major fines).
You can toss in some spill diapers in to the oil-water separator or make a weir so the oils on the top do not escape and you can just suck those up.
(speaking from previous experience as an engineer who was responsible for oil terminals where we had greasy surface waters from a gravel covered yard that had run-off that we had to manage. Also had a "special wastewater operator's license to deal with oil contaminated waters.)
@@TishaHayes "make a weir so the oils on the top do not escape"
The other option is a syphon tube that leaves about 25mm of liquid in the bottom of the catch basin and starts draining 25mm below the lip. A common practice in my area for bunding around fuel tanks. A wet vac or puddle pump can deal with and remaining fluid if there is a concern over standing water etc.
These time lapses are the most satisfying videos on CZcams.
I would strongly suggest putting at least a 2 1/2" x 1/4" thick angle iron (not just concrete) as the raised lip you spoke about to keep the driving wind/rain out. Maybe weld some spikes to it to secure it to the concrete when poured. That way your tracked machines won't ever crack the edge coming in and out.
I did this to my shop when we poured. actually set it at a bit of an angle . welded long peices of rebar to it and tied it into the rebar in the floor. Its held up great.
@mwreyf1 - I absolutely agree with your recommendation. As you point out, the thick angle iron will protect the concrete entrances - especially from your tracked vehicles !!
We had this for edges on an elevated section at work and it held up for 20 years and did not crack! It would get stuff smashed into it often but never even cracked.
Absolutely agreed! Put a piece of angle iron on the edge, or it will almost certainly become broken.
Yupp the more the better over time
Just a quick note to say you can not put lord on your driving license just because you brought a square foot of land in Scotland, the Scottish Court of the Lord Lyon ruled that programs like Established Titles are not real and therefore calling yourself “lord” is a fraudulent misuse of the title. And as the The Land Registration (Scotland) Act 2012 clearly states that souvenir plots can’t be registered with the Land Register of Scotland you don’t even actually own the plot you spent money on in the 1st place. Great video though as always.
“It almost looks like I know what I’m doing but I assure you, I do not” lmao, I nearly spat my drink out the way you said that. Fantastic job on the shop floor prep, you’re right about the pex looking like a work of art, great job. Keep up the great content.
AKA: SCOMN (shot coffee out my nose)
Matt: For your wood boiler: I suggest Central Boiler. I have an older E3200 gassification unit and it kicks 600,000+ BTU/hr with zero smoke, once it gets hot. It loves pine and sap woods - the secondary burn chamber turns that stuff into rocket fuel. Lower chamber gets close to 2000 degrees with the right mix. I suggest you also add an extra water tank (we used a large cheap water heater that isn't even hooked up to create heat), and minimize the electronic zone controls. We heat 5000+ square foot, two forced-air systems, one hot water and 1200 ft of stone floor with it, and fill it maybe twice a day in the coldest winter. All with one Taco pump for the main heat, and one smaller Taco for the stone floor. You could do your whole garage with one.
It is tempting to plan your install alone, and use lots of gizmos. Give me a comment and we'll exchange contact info. My brother is north of you, and has installed more than 200 of those things over the years. The manufacturer calls him to fix botched installs. He's no salesman. He will walk you through doing it right. He did mine a dozen years ago. Best decision I made.
FWIW, my son loves your channel and rocks the DC hat everywhere he goes.
edit: the ash pile from a few years of boiler operations stands thigh high, and maybe 3 feet across. The new gassification units are that efficient.
I already bought a classic edge 250. Boilers are the best
@@DieselCreek if u have a pulp or lumber near they are a great source of sawdust or wood chips for heating fuel. They pay to get it removed I'm sure they be happy to have u come get it for free lol
@@DieselCreek Matt we all are looking forward to seeing you labouring away in the new shop, now in the dead of winter! Yippie!
Oh, let's see more of Eva and Meatball as well. Thanks.
Allan back on the ranch in frosty Cut Bank, Montana
@@allan9603 love meatball 🐶
@@Piglife101 , sure do. He's a barrel of laughs!
Accomplishment = A vital part of feeling good about yourself, your abilities and being proud of what you do. It’s the essence of why we do things and what we gain from our hard work.
FYI there’s a lot of info that’s been surfacing recently about established titles being a scam. Dave from EEVblog just put up a video with a lot of info
Here I go again, watching Matt do his work and not doing my own. It's looking great so far!
I have actually developed more ambition and gotten more work done this summer because of watching Matt's channel. I think it's the sections with high frame rate that encouraged me most."nothing to it but to do it"
You absolutely DO need the rebar. Good decision! Super thrilled to see it all completely finished! I built a massive house by myself and I know how hard it is, and how rewarding and satisfying it is when you see the results! Looking forward to what's next. Cheers from Argentina, say hi next vid to the south hemisphere viewers out here 🙂
Absolutely agree!
Agreed, You'd need it to at least hold the column footings in place it becomes the "lower beam" to go with the spread bar at the top. With all that weight you don't want your footings twisting or spreading that's what the mesh stops.
Yeah Especially with all the heavy equipment. Better safe than sorry!
I just came to comment exactly this rebar definitely needed the heavy rigs you will be putting in that place including the overhead crane it’s reinforcement all the way.
I agree.You are not bringing cars and pickup trucks in that building.you are working on some very heavy equipment
Hi Matt, love your videos. Just a heads up in regards to your sponsor "established titles". There are quite a few CZcams videos currently exposing this company as a scam. Turns out this company is based in Hong Kong and have conned quite a lot of well known and respected CZcamsrs like yourself. Please do some research yourself as i wouldn't like to see your reputation or any of your subscribers getting hurt by these crooks. Cheers, Peter.
Matt; "I've never done this before"....then he does it. I've learned so much from watching your videos. It's great to see your dream shop coming together. Thanks for bringing us along! J.W. Edit: happy Thanksgiving to you, your family and friends.
I have the same mind as Matt. If it is saving money or it could be fun to try.
I have met many people that say the cant do it. But then i ask have you tried to do it and the answer is no becouse i cant. Then i say if you havent tried how du you know you cant do it.
Sure, but issue is the lack of knowledge and mistakes he does while doing this. Like pex contribution block being right front of the door, witch means there is extra heat concentration there and you cant really build a technical room there to utilize that heat to increase temp in office combined with technical room to nicer temps while rest of the shop is milder temp but still nice for working on things, witch would save in heating costs and provide "clean room" for stuff that should not get dusty and dirty/temp sensitive materials. His foundation work makes little sense and using pressure treated indoors in big nono even if its not the horrid shit of the old days, nor there is plan for the future when eventually those pillars will rot out, cant just put it on the slab and while he already made the slab it makes little sense not to build the slab and build the building on top of that. His essentially making two buildings top of each other, the weather storage/a barn and proper shop floor. This design makes no sense and it wont be even cheaper or faster to do it this way.
Further more rebar work was decent enough but you should always leave at very minimum 2.5cm gap, preferred 5cm to closest concrete edge so rebar wont be closer than that to concrete surface. Concrete despite its looks will let some air trough and oxygen in that will start rusting the rebar, witch expands and pops/cracks the concrete, specially bad if concrete is wet this will happen in just years instead of decades. There has been sooo many works sites i have been, where workers installed the rebar too close and it crack the concrete. To fix this issue one needs to jack hammer larger area out to expose rusted rebar, clean and replace the issue parts and put them where those belong before making repair pour. This is rather expensive and stupid, when spending just little bit more time in install would have prevented this from the start.
Sure if its designed to be torn down soon after, do what ever, but my professional integrity does not allow to build anything that wont last the maximum possible time. Ideally building i'm making last longer me or couple following generations, given the basic maintenance is done right and in time. With design choices like this even that can be minimized to only needing to apply some paint, checking things regularly like leaks and cleaning when say organic stuff collects to places like gutters.
One should have good reputation professional to consult with stuff like this. I do on off time lots of stuff i have no fucking idea from the get go, but part of that process is to study to the fine detail what it requires, so one does not make mistakes like this.
Can't believe how excited I am to see this project coming to fruition. Truly you are a man of many talents and one of the hardest working guys I've seen coupled with your ingenuity and sheer guts to try things to see if they work out. You deserve every success!!
That floor looks so cool! Great job on putting it down. I hope this new shop brings your prosperity and joy!
If you're putting a gantry crane in your shop, it's safe to say you'll be dealing with heavy weight. You were smart to put the steel grating down.
To everybody saying Established Titles is a scam, you’re buying one square foot of land. That is a 3” by 3” space, what did you think you were getting out of it? Even the website itself says that it’s a joke gift.
If I had not already mentioned it Matt, to get a really nice water tight seal at the doors just embed a 3 or 4 inch aluminum pipe directly under the garage doors for them to sit on. Leave about a quarter or so of the pipe above the concrete for the door gasket to seal to. When I was a youngster I helped my dad do that to our garage floor and it has lasted for about 60 years. You have an awesome build going on there!
I like this idea, a trough would catch water or snow melt and then freeze your doors closed in MN anyway, maybe in PA it’s not as crappy as it is here but warms in the day and melts and as soon as the sun goes down it’s 15-20 degrees and then your doors are froze closed.
@@Flyanb could always make the door shut half inch to an inch higher than the outside grade so you wont get water coming under the door unless it floods and wont have an issue with the door freezing shut
Our garage has that on our house, except instead of a pipe, the concrete is raised to create a sort of half dome where the garage door sits
Nowadays they use prehung doors which comes with a threshold you can hang the door higher so the thresholds night not right on the concrete like put a piece of treated two by six on the concrete first sealed all up with construction adhesive
You are going to love the radiant heat in your shop! I put in pex for in-floor heating when I built my pole barn back in 2016. The tubing sat dormant until 2020 when I was finally able to insulate the walls and install a boiler. I'm so glad I chose this option. I'm in central Minnesota and can work all winter in my pole barn in shirt sleeves.
You're a lucky man... just the right time before corona and prices trippeling 😬😅😅
@@rubenbraekman4515 You got that right. I bought insulation, a bunch of 1/2" plywood for the walls and steel for the ceiling just a few months before prices went out of control.
23:35 That explains the Busch Lite can sitting on the 5-ton
Established Titles = That warm fuzzy feeling when your tip a bum
That's a lot of work Matt! Your dream shop is definitely taking shape! Love your videos! 👍
Matt, the wire mesh needs a foot overlap, otherwise the concrete will crack. Also, you have to use inch and a half chairs between foam and wire mesh
Yeah that is another thing besides the "Not optimal pex runs"
When i had it installed they used standoffs so that the rebar was lifted and not in the bottom. I guess the knobs on the foam board will help a bit, but i would also have put something in, to raise the rebar
This!
Also add bigger diameter bars near the footings, also the rebar of the footings should be on or in the top layer of rebar, this way the whole mesh carries the load insteaf of that itty bitty concrete it comes in to contact with.
@The Unordinary Pastor oh right! Geez I hope Matt reads your comment & the other replies to your comment, as they could be very important! He's only got a couple of inches of mesh overlap at the moment so yeah. Oh & no stool spacer things either! Careful Matt!
Also I didn’t see the concrete expansion foam between the concrete slab and the walls
@@TheFbingha yes, I’ve seen that but it’s not how it is supposed be done
You are 100% right on that floor, you only get one shot at overbuilding concrete! Any concrete guy that looks at the Kobelco and still says you dont need the reinforcement would be suspect to me! Nice job!
I will say one thing Matt You are one hard-working SOB.
Putting radiant floor heat in my shop was one of the best decisions I ever made. I had to wuss out though and pay a contractor to handle it (just didn't have the time to fit into the schedule) so I admire you running it yourself. Finally had to fire it up for the season this week when the snow started hitting hard but when it's warm it keeps temps really well. I'm sure you'll love it!
No shame in getting a contractor, there's only yay many hours in the day and atleast a couple hours a week need to be happy hour.
My home shop is currently an unheated, uninsulated garage with tarps over a gravel floor.. It's frosty work in a VT winter. Can't wait to upgrade somemore.
I love floor heat but to make it recover faster a forced air furnace should be installed to provide faster heat recovery after opening a door in sub zero temps.
Matt you may want to consider putting re-bar tie in’s from the edge of your main interior slab where your overhead door openings are (like you did on the crane pier’s) it helps strengthen the future concrete aprons outside of your building. An additional suggestion for your concern of wind /water blowing in at the bottom of the overhead doors, on my project’s this size, I use a 1-1/2 dia galvanized round bar x the width of the door plus 2”, I drop these in the wet concrete and sink em about 1/2 way in. Then pull the overhead door down and make sure the round bar lines up with the door and seals on the doors rubber btm seal. This prevents water intrusion and is easy to drive heavy equipment over it too, it actually lengthen’s the life of the overhead door seal considerably too because it doesn’t freeze the rubber door seal to the slab in cold temp’s.
Just my thoughts.
You can drill and chemset starter bars in later. A lot of people do since it's such a hazard having rebar sticking out of anything
I live on a WINDY hill in VT and have never had any kind of water blow under my garage doors. All that extra work and figuring for pipes (that may be pushed up out of the concrete if water gets under them and freezes) and getting them level to the door is a bunch of extra work for nothing (in my opinion)
That Custom made wood rotating Spool Holder is cool 😎 very creative Matt 25:43 @Diesel Creek
In Denmark, my home country, we put rocks, insulation and rebars. Then we attach the PEX to the rebars, and pour concrete... Just different order ..
Matt, what do you think about making a poll to see which project to do first when the shop is complete ? IE:
1. Christine gets windows.
2. Auto car build.
3. Jeep restoration.
4. Man lift restoration.
5. Cud cadet lawn mower rebuild.
.
You DO need the wire mesh. The crack control it will provide under the heavy loads you will have on that slab is invaluable for long term structural integrity. Also, typically wire mesh in structural applications require 1 to 2 squares of overlap to give the support needed.
Your concrete guy assures you that you don't need it because it's a pain to do a reinforced slab. Especially with a laser screed. I've done literally millions of square footage of tilt up warehouses with laser screeds. You need two extra guys to lift the wire mesh after the screed has driven over it and before the concrete gets placed. Those laser screeds like about a 5" to 8" slump, so I'd think about using a water reducer in the concrete to help avoid shrinkage cracking to get to that slump instead of adding water.
Personally if I did a shop floor that was going to have heavy equipment on it I'd do at least #4 @ 16" OC EW.
Hope you see this Matt, lol. Especially the part about the water reducer. I'm a special inspector and I worked in a concrete laboratory for years. I have a bunch of certifications for concrete laboratory work (ACI concrete Lab tech level 1, which requires three other certifications to get) and a bunch of certifications for concrete field work (ACI, ICC, WAQTC, WABO e.t.c e.t.c). So I can give you the book and field version answer to pretty much every question you'll ever have on concrete, lmao.
Sorry for the wall of text. I have 20 years of experience and way too much knowledge on the subject. 🤣
@@@brianblank9921 Hi mate! Wow I hope Matt reads your comments!
Hey Matt, the video sponsor Established Titles, you might want to research them to see what you’re promoting.
Matt as plumber and heating engineer that was a A rated installation by a mechanic with a common sense attitude,you are the man 🇬🇧👍🔧 Dave
Not only is the rebar going to join the two strengthening the peiers but it’s also strengthening the pad itself, very brilliant
A southpaw! Never realized it.
that pex unrolled looks like something dirt perfect would make
Hi Matt, as a plumbing and heating engineer here in the UK l was impressed with your laying in the Pex pipe. Well done.
Hi Matt - for anyone that cares there's a school of thought that the supply and return lines on the radiant are to be run parallel. In other words, you should be starting at the manifold with the two cut ends of a pre-measured loop, so that the supply side and return sides are laid down next to one another. When you get to the end you have a loop in your hands. This ensures that the heat is evenly distributed . The way you did it (it will work no worries) all of the heat is given up at the start of the run and not much left at the end which can cause unevenness. It takes some planning to have the right length of pex figured out, but this way the hot supply water is more evenly distributed throughout the entire slab. There are computer programs that can size the loops. I know exactly how much work you have been doing - mad respect. Keep up the good work.
That's some good info, I wouldn't even have thought of it like that. Thank you for advice, I'll definitely keep this in mind.
very valid points
I was thinking the same thing as he was running the lines. I also would have run the lines in zones so if he wanted more or less heat in different areas he could control it. If there are 9 runs, make 9 specific zones.
@Ro Herms the early runs won’t help at all, they are long runs along the long side and end of the building. Yes I’m being critical but I would have liked it in square zones. As you mentioned though, it will work. 😃
I was wondering about that. Makes perfect sense. Thanks for pointing that out.
Matt, I just thought of something, with all that plumbing under you new floor, absolutely do not drive any very heavy pieces of equipment on to you floor ever if you do accidentally drive a heavy piece of equipment and do crack you floor, then all your tubing under the floor will leak and never can be fixed!
All the professional heavy equipment workshops have steel mesh reinforcement in their concrete floors for very valid reasons! Bulldozers etc. are very heavy!
Matt, that is a professional job that I have seen on the installation of concrete flooring. Are you sure you've never done this type of project before? Kidding. Awesome work especially doing it by yourself. One thing I always admire about your projects. Do it once the correct way, so that you wouldn't have to come back and do it again, big projects in particular. Happy Thanksgiving Matt to you and yours.
Congratulations Matt, on laying the floor frame for the concrete. Can wait to see the completed floor. Matt hope you and your family have a great Thanksgiving Weekend coming up. Happy Thanksgiving.
Same to you!
@@DieselCreek gobble gobble gobble ..................
take a tape measure and use several building landmarks and take pictures of the pex piping layout, 20-30 min hell even 2 hours will save you headaches in the future if you ever need to drill holes for anchors or something in the future.
Thermal imaging camera can see them easy
It was very smart to install the wire mesh, I have saw people that didn't do this and, regret it.
Around here, where the winters are way milder than at Matt's place, 6 inches of styrofoam floor insulation was the norm 20 years ago. Now it's 8 inches (200mm) The thin layer he put down would be considered so-so for a storahge shed that you'd might want to heat up occasionally. Seem like the potential heating savings in USA are gigantic.
Yeah in intend to do something along this for a house. I want the most roof and floor insulation I can get. I would rather pay next to nothing for heat and cooling that to pay a lot. My current home energy is way beyond what it should be. Yet a newly insulated floor and roof would reduce the cost over the building life and an extra 3 or 5k now could be paid off in 10 years or less in savings, more if you include inflation.
The other thing I want to do as well is add in a solar panel array that is just for heating the floor. Not to run it full time yet to produce enough heat during the day and dump any and all extra heat in to the garage are while keeping the house at the set temp. All of that extra heat in a shop like this would ideal as it does not matter how hot it gets in there you just open a door and cool it off. Its better to have a hot area than a cold area. Plus laying on the slab would be super ideal. I am not sure how the new boilers work these days. I know older ones had holding tanks in which they were heated. Adding some thermostats DC heaters would be more than enough to keep some areas hot.
Man that is going to be nice. You might consider putting some rebar at the slab edges at the doors. The entrances take the most abuse as the equipment rolls up and onto the slab and a little extra rebar really helps.
Very curious how every comment calling out this Established Titles scam, has been pushed to the very bottom of the list, hmmmm.
Mate I always put a 12mm permiter bar around entire slab, taught to me by my grandfather and I've never had a slab fail in 40 years. Ties it all together. Great job from Oz.
Cheers mate
I first subscribed to this channel when you were building your container shop. I’d been searching for ideas for my own shop and found your channel. Even then you were talking about your dream shop, happy for you that it’s finally coming together and you haven’t had to take any shortcuts or compromise.
Absolutely THUMBS UP!! 👍👍 Your new shop is looking awesome Matt. I see by the ending that you have found yourself a really nice looking Army truck! Wishing you all the very best with all that you do. Looking forward to your next video! 👍👍
Hi, where I work, they built a new garage and put floor heat in, awesome for the mechanics ! But they put a different type in, the company they used uses pvc pipe & special garden hose inside the pipe so if you spring a leak ,you just pull out the bad hose while you pull new hose in through the pvc ! Sure is much better than having to rip up the floor trying to find a bad section of tubing .
Your sponsor should give you a frame the same size as the land, so youcan lay it on the ground and say that you own that much ground in Scotland.
Damn matt you are going to have so much more room for activities. Congrats bro you deserve it. Thank you for bringing us along.
This is going to be a brilliant workshop for you Mat. It's really coming together now! 💪👏👏👏👏
you can put one of them out side wood boilers in so it really won't cost you anything to heat the shop!
I'm often told I overengineer...
Good. That means it's strong.
3/8 rebar on 1 ft centers for a back yard shed pad, poured 6 inches thick because I had to pay for that much concrete even if I only wanted it 4 inches thick.
I feel sorry for whoever wants to remove the shed.
I know it is almost done ,but what I did with my shop is I put an electric panel ether side of the shop . Way easier to run wire and cheaper with more versatility. Love your shop with I put a crane in mine.
Nice idea. So did you have one main panel and then run a large feeder (nice thing is only one is needed) across to the other side to a subpanel?
Hey Matt, love seeing your dream garage becoming a reality. Mate,I live in Queensland, Australia so I’m not familiar with the cold and snow you guys encounter but I recently watched a smaller scale job to yours in another cold area of America and they had a giant invasion of mice etc due to the warmer environment so I suggest that you really look into vermin proofing your building. Starting to look awesome mate.
If you have access to a commercial walk in freezer commonly found in restaurants, just walk into one of those and you'll have an idea of what it's like here in the frozen. If you want it to be more authentic, make sure your clothes are damp before you walk in.
And definitely yes to the vermin. You'll never entirely keep them out, but using those green poison blocks on the inside and the safer Rat-X feed poison on the outside will go a long way.
I live in Central NSW, Australia but have spent some time in Northern Illinois and surrounds and know how cold it can get over there. The novelty of snow runs out quickly after having to shovel it. Just glad we don't have to put underfloor heating in our sheds here. Well done to Matt for doing as much as he can himself.
We use a long leg "f" shaped bar to work rebar. Its a great tool and takes 5 mins to make.
Boy if this garage gets finished you can finish the first one. I love container buildings
this thing is really starting to come together. it's getting real exiting watching this series.
I'm excited to see the shed coming together - and what a shed it will be (better than the house I'm living in). Have always enjoyed the music.
PS. Where I live, we call them gantry cranes.
Big concert coming up
Lot of back breaking work. It'll all pay off in the end. Now let's get that concrete in.
Oh Matt, love watching the dream shop come together! And you made putting that pipe in the insulation in the floor look like fun. 😂
Matt I'm seeing a post this morning by "No Nonsense Know How" and he's claiming that the Established Titles company is a complete scam which he turned down, as you're one of my favourite channels you might want to check out his claim to see if there is any truth in what he says..
yep, Established Titles is a scam, you get nothing but a fake pdf title.
Your ingenuity always surprises me. You’re the man! It’s going to be an awesome feeling when this project is done.
"Concrete guys" (grano in Australia) love pouring concrete without mesh so they say its not needed. Of course they are long gone when the cracking starts. Look at any structural concrete in an engineered building and it ALWAYS has mesh/reo. Nice job Matt, just so glad we dont need heated floors haha
Hi Matt great work as ever. Also loved the seamless link to the word from the sponsor @2:06 - very professional! 🤣🤣 Hope Lady Eva doesn't watch this before Christmas and spoil the surprise!
@fraynie91 yeah lol! I'd like to see Eva's reaction to bare feet on warm concrete in the middle of winter!
Hi Matt, I grew up in Germany and my dad was a concrete and steel master builder… well I became a building drafter in concrete and steel…. LOL, contrary to US specialists belief, your method in putting a layer on wire-mesh in to the sub construction of the floor, before the concrete comes in, is “mandatory” in Germany, this way you have a more stable floor build and can put a higher load on it, without cracking one bit….. keep doing what you’re doing Matt, I love this shop and can’t wait when the “bridge crane” gets installed! Keep rocking Matt!
Matt I was in the plumbing and heating business and never did any floor heating of that size, thanks for show us will continue to watch the concrete segment and beyond.
Coming along great. Therapeutic to watch this go down. I can smell the concrete.
Master plumber here -> You did a great job with the radiant heating!
will you be zoning the heat tubing so you can regulate the temp if a mild situation and if colder you run full blast????
Hey ! Make sure you fill the pipes up with water sp they have pressure before you fill with concrete. Or else some pipes can collapse. That is not good. Almost forgotten, good work. I'm cheering
Best Regards
1 roll of that heavy plastic is 125 bucks Yikes im with you matt definitely dont want to see that bound up in a tree 😮15:42 @Diesel Creek
The floor strength comes from the concrete.
The mesh won't stop the concrete from cracking, but if it cracks it will stop the cracked pieces from moving.
No need for pockets for the doors. Weather stripping on the bottom of the door stops the water from entering.
Your workshop is coming on great, all that prep work really pays off, you are making a very good job of all the work that you do. Great videos, keep going.
Every days progress brings the dream shop closer to being in service and to some great video content for us out here. Great job Matt, excited for you, thanks for the update sir.
I don't know, if it is allready in your plans. But when the whole heating system is installed, you shoud do a hydraulic balancing. Setting the correct water-flow for each heat-cycle.
And setting up the heat-source correctly, so that not more heat than needed is produced. When turning the heat to full on the distributor, it should make just the heat, that you really need.
Can save a lot of money......and of course is better for the environment, too.
Don't know, if I got the right words....I'm not a native speaker :D :P
Man.. feeding that hose like that.. omg... my back would be crying at me sooooo badly... to the point of tears.
Looks awesome nice work
Thanks man!
that foam really ties the room together..
Rebar mats will reduce the chances of any large cracks in the poor as weather temps and such work on it
Matt....if you haven't thought about it yet...you might want to pour a large apron on one end of the shop to use as an outside wash bay to blow your equipment off before bringing in the shop
The tubing laid down well! I thought it would have had more memory in it. Nice job Matt.
@Diesel Creek Just a thought. I know it’s more expensive. But you may want to look into having at least a inch of closed cell foam sprayed on all the walls too! With a poll barn or steel building you get lots and lots of sweating on the inside of the walls. It will rot out the wood very fast. The one inch of spray foam is a thermal break so it won’t sweat nearly as bad if at all. Once that’s on you can install your regular insulation bats over it for the real insulation value. It will also stiffen up your walls considerably as a added bonus. Just want you to check into it yourself so you can see what I mean about the walls sweating. Cheers and thanks for taking the time to video all your stuff for us to watch. It’s fantastic!!!
2" is the usual minimum for a flash coat of spray foam in a cold climate
@@mattywho8485 insulation 28+feet over head? I'm positive Mat is looking to seal crack and crannies at the top! Avoiding chimney affect drawing in cold untreated air at his work level! He did mentioned bats on the walls. I believe he is letting the project evolve as he moves causally through all criticism! I'm pretty sure they can increase thickness as needed. You go Mat, I see what you mean about some peoples comments.
How could a sweat if he does the vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation?
Thinking how neat it would be to have an IR imager up in the rafters the first time you heat this system up - you'll be able to see the heat propagation clearly!
Matt if you have a real good heater in a vehicle lay the pex tubes in vehicle thr day you start and retrieve as you go along ,that way it's at best a moderate temperature to work with,it will not cause too much heat in a given spot.
Remember if you have burrowing critters in your area, and you have an insulated floor, be sure to protect that insulation. You can lay wire under your vapor barrier, or dig a ditch for wire around the perimeter. Because they will try to get under that slab and make confetti out of the blue board.
Yes and there are a few insects that will attack styro such as small black ants
Do you mean something like chicken wire?
Not sure how much I would want that stuff on the dirt and not really between 2 plastic sheets either.
I wonder if someone were to put down 500 lbs of bug stuff. That is likely to keep quiete a bit away as well?
I intend to build this way. Though I almost want to do it this way.
wire mesh, plastic, 2inch foam board, plastic, the white boards in this video, pex, panels and concrete, finished out as the main floor, stained and laquree. Though where my garage's are they will have 8 feet of french drain right under the middle of each parking space with the floor sloping to the drains. That way all rain, snow drains away and not where people walk.
Here in Michigan one of the first concrete jobs I did was a similar set up for the floor we dug 4 foot rat walls all the way around the entire building and poured those prior to the install of the hydronic system I definitely was sore that day building was 30x60
Here the recommendation for low-pier mounted sheds is to take 30-36" or so wide welded wire (1/4" or 1/2" holes), bend it into an "L lengthways. Then lay it beside the foundation, with the base of the L dug down about a foot horizontally outwards and the rest of the wire straight up the wall. Some digging critters when they encounter vertical wire will dig down a fair depth to continue inwards. But if they dig down close to the foundation and encounter horizontal wire, they will give up.
With a thick gravel base like this, he probably only needs to protect the gravel edge and wall bottom edge unless he has badgers.
the trick with bending the rebar aka slab dowels is to bend them with a board underneath like you did but you need to do all your bending right there, just bend a little more from the start because you don't want those slab dowels coming up when pouring the slab
So when I was working for a GC we did a lot of odd jobs like this that had a sprinkling of everything in it we weren't doing a job exactly like this but something similar and what we found worked best to bend that rebar to that exact position especially something low to the ground was a chain binder bar. The one that has a little Z on the end or you can put the handle in and then push down and it bites into it. We were able to bend it pretty much wherever however and it looks almost exactly like your rebar Bender but just something quick and easy and dirty that you probably already have on your trailer deck.
The wiremesh will prevent cracking of the concrete due to shrinkage.. good choice..
Foam Lego’s? That’s the first thing I thought of. A giant man size Lego set.
Awesome job Matt. That workshop will be world class.
Can't wait to see the finished product! What an awesome shop it will be!
That doo dad you made was excellent, what a great solution
Such a coool freaking project, so happy for him! Best wishes on getting this completed, looking forward to seeing it all Matt!