i use a pippette and to drip some accelerator onto a medicine cup so i don't have to waste it by spraying. i just dip a tiny brush into it and paint the area i need accelerator. also thanks for sharing learned improved methods for rigging.
Thank you for this tutorial and the recommendation on the materials for rigging, I'm currently building the 1/350 Titanic and was looking for some tips for it's rigging. Subbed! Merry Xmas!!! 🎅🏽🎄❄
I have found the EZ-line to be great stuff for rigging both ships and aircraft models (rigging and radio aerial lines), and I use pretty much the same technique you do. But instead of spraying the accelerator I usually unscrew the top of the accelerator bottle and dip a small stick or the end of a paint brush or something like that in the liquid accelerator and then just apply a drop of it to the glue point, so I am not spraying accelerator all over the place....not that it matters, because it all evaporates away in a short time anyway. I just prefer the drop method to the spray method most of the time. Regarding the Yamato model, is it the older Tamiya mold? It looks really good. *** There is some similar rigging to EZ-line that you can get from Uschi Van Der Osten (in Holland), it comes in several different gauges for both ships and planes, and it's also very good. In some ways I think it's a little bit better than EZ-line, but they are both very good for the purpose.
I am about to rig my first ship and coincidentally is a 1/350 yamato! so thanks for the video bc I must confess i am very nervous...XD These two amazing things you used in the video... i never used before. the accelerator and the flat paint you passed over the superglue. could you tell me the brand of both ? another question, is it ok to spray the accelerator over the finished parts of my ship (decals, photo etch, etc...)? Sorry for too many questions, greetings from Sao Paulo, Brazil.
The accelerator will not harm paint, plastic, or photo-etch. I am not sure what it will do to decals. Any decals that you have applied should be covered by a layer of varnish to protect them and prevent them from falling off. That layer of varnish will be sufficient to protect the decal if the decal needs protecting at all. I have tried three brands of accelerator, BSI Industries, Tamiya, and a no-name brand. I found that Tamiya accelerator does not work well with BSI CA glue, it causes it to foam and turn white. The BSI and no-name accelerator works well with all CA glue brands I have tried them on. The bottom line is buy an accelerator from the same brand as your CA glue and if that is not possible test the combination before using them on your model. The flat varnish is Tamiya XF-86, flat clear. When applying it on top of a gloss varnish, like Tamiya X-22, it will not return the finish to full flat. I think for a ship a slight semi-gloss is appropriate since ships are not painted with flat paint. They are usually painted with gloss or semi-gloss paints. In any case I think scale makes them look more flat anyway. The point is if you want a varnish that will make the surface very flat. give Mr. Hobby 182 a go but be careful because it is easy to overdo it with that varnish. However, if it does go wrong and you get white frosting it is easy to fix it with lacquer thinners. I am happy to answer questions, they are my favorite comments, so keep them coming.
@@DavidsShips Thank you! I am using tamiya thinner X20A to mix with all the paints, So can I apply XF-86( flat) or X-35(SemiGloss) mixed with X20A thinner over the decals and will not eat them? which proportion for the varnishes is the best? 50%/50% is ok? do you recommend apply one of those two varnishes over the entire ship to protect the finished areas? I am half of the way right now (Step 52) So I can see the main structure and looks amazing. I bought EZ-Line but had no idea how to use it, so your video was VERY instructive. Both of your ships looks awesome i wish i was that good.
Paint won't harm the decals. The varnishes that you use will depend on how you intend to finish the ship. I apply decals on top of a gloss varnish to prevent silvering. I also prefer to apply panel line and weathering effects on a gloss surface. The last layer that I apply is XF-86, that seals in everything and and applies the matt effect. In the end the entire model will be covered in layers of gloss varnish beneath layers of flat varnish. I thin the varnish to an appropriate thickness for airbrushing. The amount of thinners required depends on the type of paint and the brand. For Tamiya acrylics 1:1 is usually appropriate. The most recent videos in which I describe the process can be found in the HMS Hood build series: Part 24: czcams.com/video/yLA8udASjLg/video.html Part 25: czcams.com/video/u2uTUVd-PKM/video.html Part 26: czcams.com/video/yJEeeqXUFNM/video.html You can also see the process in the RN Roma build series: czcams.com/play/PLsONiwAggxt74w4_B8x4gMji6cwT71cdh.html
At the moment I am using BSI Super Thin and Extra Thick super glue and the BSI accelerator. I don't think the brand is particularly important, it is just important to have both a thick and thin glue. I have noticed that some brands of super glue do not interact well with certain accelerators. For example, Tamiya accelerator will turn BSI superglue white.
I have a question regarding the use of EZ line. Since you said it's essentially plastic, would Tamiya's liquid cement work? Or is super glue still the way to go.
Technically yes, but practically no. Plastic cement will eventually dry and harden but the bond will not be strong. Superglue sets very quickly and can be made to set even more quickly with accelerator. Holding rigging in place while waiting for plastic cement to set will be detrimental to your mental health. I do not advise it.
Thank you for this video. Does the EZ Line take paint if you airbrush it first? How would you compare EZ Line to fine fishing line (if you have used it)?
I have not tried to airbrush EZ Line. I would imagine that the paint will stick but when you stretch the EZ Line it will damage the paint. I would paint EZ line after installing it to avoid this possibility. I have not used fishing line on a kit but I would imagine that it would be similar to using thread. The problem would be the lack of stretch. I am also not sure how fishing line could be straightened without placing it under tension. With thread it can be ironed, I don't know how to make fishing line sit perfectly straight without tension.
That was my thought as well - we’ll see with my next build. As for fishing line, my understanding is that very fine line can be tensioned with a sealing iron. You touch it to the line and that’s about it. Using heat around my models would freak me out, but some people swear by it.
![Build 1/350 日本海軍戰艦長門1941 プラモデル - パート1 [1/350 Nagato IJN Battleship 1941 - Part1] 함선 제작기](/img/n.gif)
This will be the most dreaded part for me on all the kits I have when I start, your video helps out thanks
that rigging idea is brilliant will be giving that a go thanks
I can not say enough Thank you for this! Thank you 🙂
i use a pippette and to drip some accelerator onto a medicine cup so i don't have to waste it by spraying. i just dip a tiny brush into it and paint the area i need accelerator. also thanks for sharing learned improved methods for rigging.
Seriously brilliant skills!
Thank you for this tutorial and the recommendation on the materials for rigging, I'm currently building the 1/350 Titanic and was looking for some tips for it's rigging. Subbed!
Merry Xmas!!! 🎅🏽🎄❄
You can see more rigging in this video: czcams.com/video/hVx-5mWXMac/video.html
I have found the EZ-line to be great stuff for rigging both ships and aircraft models (rigging and radio aerial lines), and I use pretty much the same technique you do. But instead of spraying the accelerator I usually unscrew the top of the accelerator bottle and dip a small stick or the end of a paint brush or something like that in the liquid accelerator and then just apply a drop of it to the glue point, so I am not spraying accelerator all over the place....not that it matters, because it all evaporates away in a short time anyway. I just prefer the drop method to the spray method most of the time. Regarding the Yamato model, is it the older Tamiya mold? It looks really good. *** There is some similar rigging to EZ-line that you can get from Uschi Van Der Osten (in Holland), it comes in several different gauges for both ships and planes, and it's also very good. In some ways I think it's a little bit better than EZ-line, but they are both very good for the purpose.
I am about to rig my first ship and coincidentally is a 1/350 yamato! so thanks for the video bc I must confess i am very nervous...XD
These two amazing things you used in the video... i never used before. the accelerator and the flat paint you passed over the superglue. could you tell me the brand of both ? another question, is it ok to spray the accelerator over the finished parts of my ship (decals, photo etch, etc...)?
Sorry for too many questions, greetings from Sao Paulo, Brazil.
The accelerator will not harm paint, plastic, or photo-etch. I am not sure what it will do to decals. Any decals that you have applied should be covered by a layer of varnish to protect them and prevent them from falling off. That layer of varnish will be sufficient to protect the decal if the decal needs protecting at all.
I have tried three brands of accelerator, BSI Industries, Tamiya, and a no-name brand. I found that Tamiya accelerator does not work well with BSI CA glue, it causes it to foam and turn white. The BSI and no-name accelerator works well with all CA glue brands I have tried them on. The bottom line is buy an accelerator from the same brand as your CA glue and if that is not possible test the combination before using them on your model.
The flat varnish is Tamiya XF-86, flat clear. When applying it on top of a gloss varnish, like Tamiya X-22, it will not return the finish to full flat. I think for a ship a slight semi-gloss is appropriate since ships are not painted with flat paint. They are usually painted with gloss or semi-gloss paints. In any case I think scale makes them look more flat anyway.
The point is if you want a varnish that will make the surface very flat. give Mr. Hobby 182 a go but be careful because it is easy to overdo it with that varnish. However, if it does go wrong and you get white frosting it is easy to fix it with lacquer thinners.
I am happy to answer questions, they are my favorite comments, so keep them coming.
@@DavidsShips Thank you!
I am using tamiya thinner X20A to mix with all the paints, So can I apply XF-86( flat) or X-35(SemiGloss) mixed with X20A thinner over the decals and will not eat them? which proportion for the varnishes is the best? 50%/50% is ok? do you recommend apply one of those two varnishes over the entire ship to protect the finished areas?
I am half of the way right now (Step 52) So I can see the main structure and looks amazing. I bought EZ-Line but had no idea how to use it, so your video was VERY instructive.
Both of your ships looks awesome i wish i was that good.
Paint won't harm the decals. The varnishes that you use will depend on how you intend to finish the ship. I apply decals on top of a gloss varnish to prevent silvering. I also prefer to apply panel line and weathering effects on a gloss surface. The last layer that I apply is XF-86, that seals in everything and and applies the matt effect. In the end the entire model will be covered in layers of gloss varnish beneath layers of flat varnish.
I thin the varnish to an appropriate thickness for airbrushing. The amount of thinners required depends on the type of paint and the brand. For Tamiya acrylics 1:1 is usually appropriate.
The most recent videos in which I describe the process can be found in the HMS Hood build series:
Part 24: czcams.com/video/yLA8udASjLg/video.html
Part 25: czcams.com/video/u2uTUVd-PKM/video.html
Part 26: czcams.com/video/yJEeeqXUFNM/video.html
You can also see the process in the RN Roma build series:
czcams.com/play/PLsONiwAggxt74w4_B8x4gMji6cwT71cdh.html
Wonderful! Thank you for this helpful video. Which kind of glue and accelerator did you use? Thanks a lot, Olaf.
At the moment I am using BSI Super Thin and Extra Thick super glue and the BSI accelerator. I don't think the brand is particularly important, it is just important to have both a thick and thin glue.
I have noticed that some brands of super glue do not interact well with certain accelerators. For example, Tamiya accelerator will turn BSI superglue white.
I have a question regarding the use of EZ line.
Since you said it's essentially plastic, would Tamiya's liquid cement work? Or is super glue still the way to go.
Technically yes, but practically no. Plastic cement will eventually dry and harden but the bond will not be strong.
Superglue sets very quickly and can be made to set even more quickly with accelerator. Holding rigging in place while waiting for plastic cement to set will be detrimental to your mental health. I do not advise it.
Thank you for this video. Does the EZ Line take paint if you airbrush it first? How would you compare EZ Line to fine fishing line (if you have used it)?
I have not tried to airbrush EZ Line. I would imagine that the paint will stick but when you stretch the EZ Line it will damage the paint. I would paint EZ line after installing it to avoid this possibility.
I have not used fishing line on a kit but I would imagine that it would be similar to using thread. The problem would be the lack of stretch. I am also not sure how fishing line could be straightened without placing it under tension. With thread it can be ironed, I don't know how to make fishing line sit perfectly straight without tension.
That was my thought as well - we’ll see with my next build. As for fishing line, my understanding is that very fine line can be tensioned with a sealing iron. You touch it to the line and that’s about it. Using heat around my models would freak me out, but some people swear by it.
Just what I need everyday!!! Do not waste another day > P R O M O S M!!!