help.cinestillfilm.com/hc/en-us/articles/360029004292-Advantages-of-the-TCS-1000-over-kitchen-appliances here’s the cinestill page on this issue for those interested
lol i'm from Siberia and the tap water is really cold in winter time here, but I simply wait for half an hour for it to warm up a little bit every time, and b&w chemicals are not as temperature sensitive as are color chems.
What I do is set the temperature to 42degC. When the TC hits 42, the chems inside the bottles would be shy of 39. So I just keep a thermometer on hand to check
As this contraption only heats the water in the bucket to the set temperature, it will take forever to heat bottles with chemicals if they are not pre-heated. Just bought one anyhow, because in the long run I think it will be convenient, when it comes to keeping the temperature, but pre-heating my stuff will save time. -- Thanks for putting this together, as it made my decision easier.
For those who process color film, these are a real help. Frankly, you can buy one made for cooking which will work just the same for half the price of the CS product. Back in the 1980s when color processing at home was really becoming common,. warming tanks which did this job were about five times the cost of this unit. Such is modern electronics. The trick to using these is to start with heated water, rather than using these to warm room temp water. Using one of these to heat cold water (1) will take forever, and (2) will wear out the heating element in a unit which isn't really built for that stress.
I just developed my first C-41 rolls this weekend, using a very similar setup. I used a cheaper device for the water bath though - a sous-vide that looks identical to this Cinestill one, down to controls, display and dimensions. Less than £35 though. Will have to see if that means it's going to break down or not.
Hi interesting but you should not put the Paterson tank in empty with film it could soften the plastic material and warp the film. The idea of pre warm up is to heat a jug of water at the temperature 38c and pour that water into the tank to pre warm up the colour film this gives the film ready, there is a little discolour of the water after you pour it out now start your Dev pour. The default times and temperature come on when you turn on the CineStill plus the temperature or the water that be heat up. I just div my first colour film it was grate fun.
For the Jobo (which I haven't got personally): I understand you need less chems but perhaps more importantly these devices provide much higher consistency because of its motorized agitation. Sad to say I have a TCS but haven't come around using it because of my B&W development backlog... :-s.
Great video, but what a nightmare!😬 This is why I used to hate doing my own color dev. Now I stand develop my C41 at room temperature. 60 minutes with no agitation after the first minute. 3 minute wash, then Blix 10 minutes with constant agitation, and stabilize as normal. Would love to see you do a normal C41 dev vs stand comparison video.
This comment is the first I've heard of c-41 stand dev, sounds like a fun video idea. Does the 60 minute timer change depending on chemical depletion? I add 30 second do my 38C developement every 4 rolls (in line with the Tetenal 1L data sheet)
It is impossible to get the colors even close to industry standards in room temperature. If you scan and edit digitally, you can correct this failure in most cases. But for darkroom printing, negatives with off colors are a real pain in ass.
@b6983832 actually the colors are pretty close, but yes they need a bit of tweaking in Lightroom. I like the results. Maybe give it a try, unless you exclusively darkroom print.
@@joeltunnah I don't scan, but I've been printing color in darkroom since the late 1980's, I don't want to change this work to digital. It would mean also investing zillions to equipment, because I want to have good quality prints on paper.
And you can even cook with it!
What an age with live in when cheap sous vide circulators can now be rebranded as a film processing tool.
* significantly more expensive sous vide cookers
The glass is radiating the heat. I think a light plastic bottle would be very quick.
help.cinestillfilm.com/hc/en-us/articles/360029004292-Advantages-of-the-TCS-1000-over-kitchen-appliances here’s the cinestill page on this issue for those interested
lol i'm from Siberia and the tap water is really cold in winter time here, but I simply wait for half an hour for it to warm up a little bit every time, and b&w chemicals are not as temperature sensitive as are color chems.
Love your videos. Just saw this one today and was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for all the content and explanation as always.
im so glad you're back at it
What I do is set the temperature to 42degC. When the TC hits 42, the chems inside the bottles would be shy of 39. So I just keep a thermometer on hand to check
Man, you got momentum going! Keep it up! I was waiting for new stuff from you!
New video next Sunday 👌
@@JonathanNotley looking forward!
I've been looking into grabbing one of these; thanks for the detailed breakdown.
Glad it was helpful!
As this contraption only heats the water in the bucket to the set temperature, it will take forever to heat bottles with chemicals if they are not pre-heated. Just bought one anyhow, because in the long run I think it will be convenient, when it comes to keeping the temperature, but pre-heating my stuff will save time. -- Thanks for putting this together, as it made my decision easier.
For those who process color film, these are a real help. Frankly, you can buy one made for cooking which will work just the same for half the price of the CS product. Back in the 1980s when color processing at home was really becoming common,. warming tanks which did this job were about five times the cost of this unit. Such is modern electronics. The trick to using these is to start with heated water, rather than using these to warm room temp water. Using one of these to heat cold water (1) will take forever, and (2) will wear out the heating element in a unit which isn't really built for that stress.
I just developed my first C-41 rolls this weekend, using a very similar setup. I used a cheaper device for the water bath though - a sous-vide that looks identical to this Cinestill one, down to controls, display and dimensions. Less than £35 though. Will have to see if that means it's going to break down or not.
Hi interesting but you should not put the Paterson tank in empty with film it could soften the plastic material and warp the film. The idea of pre warm up is to heat a jug of water at the temperature 38c and pour that water into the tank to pre warm up the colour film this gives the film ready, there is a little discolour of the water after you pour it out now start your Dev pour. The default times and temperature come on when you turn on the CineStill plus the temperature or the water that be heat up. I just div my first colour film it was grate fun.
For the Jobo (which I haven't got personally): I understand you need less chems but perhaps more importantly these devices provide much higher consistency because of its motorized agitation. Sad to say I have a TCS but haven't come around using it because of my B&W development backlog... :-s.
Ordinary Aldi sous vide stick seems to be more practical.
It is aldo much cheaper.
Great video, but what a nightmare!😬 This is why I used to hate doing my own color dev.
Now I stand develop my C41 at room temperature. 60 minutes with no agitation after the first minute. 3 minute wash, then Blix 10 minutes with constant agitation, and stabilize as normal.
Would love to see you do a normal C41 dev vs stand comparison video.
This comment is the first I've heard of c-41 stand dev, sounds like a fun video idea. Does the 60 minute timer change depending on chemical depletion? I add 30 second do my 38C developement every 4 rolls (in line with the Tetenal 1L data sheet)
@@JonathanNotley I only do the recommended 8 rolls per the kit instructions, and no I don’t change the time. Beyond that I can’t say.
It is impossible to get the colors even close to industry standards in room temperature. If you scan and edit digitally, you can correct this failure in most cases. But for darkroom printing, negatives with off colors are a real pain in ass.
@b6983832 actually the colors are pretty close, but yes they need a bit of tweaking in Lightroom. I like the results. Maybe give it a try, unless you exclusively darkroom print.
@@joeltunnah I don't scan, but I've been printing color in darkroom since the late 1980's, I don't want to change this work to digital. It would mean also investing zillions to equipment, because I want to have good quality prints on paper.
Stabilizer should be at room temperature 20-25°C, right?
This was very informative and a great video. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I know from experience that those are breaking very often :( I have already returned two of them :(
Do you have a link to that thermometer?
Nice and detailed video. How wide and deep is your box?
Maybe 40cm x 40cm x 25cm
what a piece of crap and even pricy
just a fancy thermometer, what a waste of money