141 New Holland Procart 1022 Review -- How I mangled the Rake!
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- It was Farm Girl's first time using a wheel rake, and the first time this rake had ever seen a field! What could go wrong?! Turns out PLENTY!
But overall, I'd give the New Holland Procart 1022 a 7 out of 10. User error? Not this time . . .
Join Farm Girl on her many CRAZY adventures on their NEWLY BUILT family farm on 87 acres in Western Michigan. Born and raised a city-girl, she's finding out everyday what's she's made of as she struggles to make sense of the farming life!
With plenty of tongue-in-cheek humor and lots of mischief, you never know what you'll watch next!
While dairy farming runs thick though the veins of both her grandparents and her boyfriend Erik's grandparents, this is their FIRST real experience running a farm!
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I myself don't believe there is anything wrong with expecting something bought brand new, at full price, to arrive in excellent shape. Nor is there anything wrong with wanting to keep something new in excellent shape or taking good care of equipment. It's no different than tarping the baler and haybine, or keeping them greased, or rubbing a 50 year old tractor down with wax. We DID however, buy a field rake brand new from Burnips in Big Rapids (hay rake was from Coopersville). The field rake (while they didn't order the right color) was carefully assembled and loaded into our truck without a scratch. Even though this was a much cheaper piece of equipment, they understood it was new and shouldn't be banged around. The other dealership missed this. In this video I am merely pointing out fair observations for anyone else looking to buy. There are plenty of farming channels offering fair reviews of equipment and experiences. We ourselves use their videos as learning tools as much as possible. In this video I am providing you with things to think about when buying new.
Wish i could give this a thousand thumbs up. agree all the way
I agree with farm girl the nicer you can keep your equipment the higher resale it will have when its time for a upgrade. I just had great idea for machine shed 40 foot shipping container I thing there like $2500 just cut the side off lean too in a box..
That is a good idea .
Rural Ridez616
Yeah when we get what second cutting we get this year done . all our hay equipment will get the clean inspect and greased and parked in the barns for the winter treatment
Can I ask took delivery of this piece of equipment if it had that many problems, defects and flaws.
I picked it up did quick walk around. I didn't notice the touch up paint. It was the only rake left in Michigan they had it shipped in from another location. But I do know a damn good painter that can spot it in be better then new...
I never ever worried about paint or scratches. How it operates in the field is whats important.
EVEN BIG CONTRACTORS and big forest logging companies, like were i worked all my life, dont want there machines all scratched up, banged up, you damaged the paint or panel, in the bush, you can be sure you get a 3 day off no pay,, if you did, from plain carelessness
You do amazingly well for someone who didn't grow up around it. What you really need is some old Dad or Grand Pa out there working with you. You would be amazed how much they could teach you quickly. Keep up the good work. You are all Try! And that is a compliment!
As a retired farmer of many years that's the first thing I noticed . You are doing a fine job and I might add you are a very pretty farm girl.
Looks like shipping damage to me. I think this is considered normal for this kind of industry. New autos are entirely different.
Set the windrow width a little wider to help reduce the amount of clumping your getting out there. We have the 12 wheel version of that rake and I absolutely love it. We demoed the 10 wheel rake and decided on the 12 wheel because the 10 wheel won’t grab 3 swaths into one. The 12 wheel stretched all the way out barely grabs 3. I did order it with the hydraulic width adjust and it’s 100% worth the investment. It allows you to adjust the width on the fly from the cab as crop condition change across the field.
Looks like you turned too sharp and got the lower 3-point arms into it. Lol just run them all the way down then all that’ll hit are the tires. You still want to be careful though, I’ve almost tipped ours over when I had one arm up and got into it turning too sharp... It happens. Lol
Great video!
Keep up the good work!
Some of the scrapes were likely from chains and or straps used to transport on a truck to the dealer. It is not unusual find scrapes. Next time ask for a 6 pack of Paint and a 6 pack of beer for the pain. The dealers sign off on delivery with scrapes because they know the Factory won’t pay for superficial scrapes on the implements.
Most have low paid set up guys to catch much of it. The hydraulic coupler is likely defective on that one hose. If it leaks while sitting it is bad.
that's a good idea actually, when we built our pole barn, the steel company gave us paint for every color we bought of steel siding, just in case we somehow scratched it during assembly. I think they should have thrown in some paint or taken a bit extra off the final invoice . . .
WTFarm Girl Absolutely.
The first piece you weren't sure on is a roll pin used to hold a larger pin in place, the pieces on the wings are baseplate for hydraulic hose clamps, I presume there is a hydraulic adjustment option for the windrow width.
Paintwise it isn't just NH the worst piece of machinery we had was a KRM tined harrow as you could see they hadn't bothered to clean off half the steel before painting it.
we just got a new wheel rake and to make it easier rake the back and forth rows first then to the outside rows
I just watched your video today. As soon as I saw it I knew right away what the marks were from on the wheel rake. The 3 point arms. Lol I’ve done it too. You can’t go wrong with a good whee rake. I had a 3 point 4 wheel one. I loved how nice it fluffed the hay up to give it the last little extra dry time before baling it.
Time to think about wrapping up those frozen hydrants 😁
Love the new equipment 👍. Take care of it and it will last a long, long , time.
Still think you should consider building a long farm equipment shed for all of your equipment. Do it during the cool months because 5V tin roof is hot during the summer.
So far 4 people enjoy hanging from there feet and eating hay. 😂
We started the first steps on this already. Might not get the building up until next year though, but at least we have ground down :)
That was a roll pin that holds the shaft in place for the arm to pivot. The grease fitting is through a round hole in the middle of the shaft.
The rusted spots you pointed out in the beginning, i,ll bet some were maybe the result of a careless truck driver using that point to chain to maybe? The left and right you pointed to thought for a grease fittings are actually are a roll pin that is friction driven in to hold the main pivot pin.I give you credit for taking pride in your equipment and the hay that ýou produce.
you might try ajusting the windrow wider that should help with the bunching you have in the windrow, also the sharper angle you will get on the wheels will make them turn faster and clean the field even better, just keep playing with it until you find that sweet spot that works for you.
check the quick connect ends on hydraulic lines on your rake, if they are different than your disc then swap to the same ends as your disc and should stop the leak. I would think that the new Holland rake lines from the factory would be matched to the new Holland tractor. I agree that when buying new equipment there is no excuse for paint damage (from improper transport from the factory) the dealer should at least offer to discount some future parts or labor.
Looks like the rake is doing a nice job and the more you rake with it the better you will get with it thanks for the video
Hit it with the 3 point
If there is adjustment on it to do so may want to take a little weight off fingers so they dont damage grass as bad? Just saying
The wheels cannot be adjusted, but I put the hydraulics in "float" mode which means they are just balancing on the ground nd not pushing downward.
Good lord I’m sorry for all of the negativity, I commented about the spot you had and read all the bad stuff people are saying I think you have great videos keep it up!
Dont worry.Stay happy💖
those first things you pointed at looked like normal roll pins to hold that shaft from coming out, and yeah 3pt arms down does that lol.. also do your ends last in the fields.. just pull up close enough to turn, do the field, then a couple rounds around the outside
yep, I realized this as soon as I made a few passes. But being this was my first time running a new pattern, it was a shot in the dark :)
@@This1LifeWeLive you'll figure things out. Just takes time and s bit of experience. Hang in there 🙂
Best paint I've found so far is cold galvanizing paint to have on hand. Everything rusts quick here in NC. Depot has the galvanizing paint on the same shelf as utility marking paint. It looks like gray primer and dries quick. Pick up some and hit the bare spots to curb the rust. If you want to go farther, pick up the matching paint for the equipment and spot spray the damage. Leaving the galv paint bare isn't a problem as I have a few things that are sitting outside painted with it and no rust attacking it after a couple of years. It's cheap but effective.
The hydraulic lines should have check valves on the end of the fittings minimizing fluid loss and making a mess. I have worked with others that don't wipe off dirt or put the caps back that usually end up torn off. I have had the check valve stick causing a leak while disconnected. Carefully tapping the valve inward usually stops the leak. Just beware hydraulic pressure is nothing to play around with as it can be injected into your skin. If it is spraying, shut it off and don't put any part of your body near it as a friend of a friend ended up loosing a limb from a diesel injector pushing fuel into his skin. Diesel fuel, hydraulic fluid, anything with high pressure can turn deadly at the worst. Not trying to scare anyone but machines usually win over humans with accidents.
So back on topic. 🙄😁 Likely your rake like others was a damaged demo or damaged in shipping passed off as new. That is sad if it is the case as when you buy new, it should be as advertised. Unfortunately dealers are about profits and a quick fix and touch up likely passes with no questions by most buyers. No criticism towards you. Next time you will be asking about scratches and paint touch ups as you are wiser. Quick thought on what those holes may be that you mentioned may be for a grease zerk that isn't there. If they are threaded, I'm thinking it might be so a bolt can hold the square tube within the outer so the pins can be installed. Just a guess. Might be a good idea to find a plug to put in them keeping water from collecting inside the frame if it can't drain out. Just some thoughts and observations. No expert on anything. Farm on! 😎
That looked like roll pin to hold the shaft in place.
Equipment dealers often lend out their equipment so potential buyers can try it out. Much of the paint 'damage' appears to be where truckers chained it down without using 'softeners' - rubber pads - to protect the coating. Other rust damage is from where metal touches metal when the arms are down. "Faying surfaces". That is not a missing grease fitting, 1:47,it is a 'split pin or Roll Pin which fastens the pieces together. You should have made a back swath cut around the perimeter to get all the hay possible. There may be a tiny number at the corner of the decal so you can order replacements. Many of us guessed what happened. Operator error! One of those 'shit happens' deals. I suspect worn or mismatched connectors on your hydraulic junction for the leaks. Try plugging into another pair temporarily and see what happens. You might also consider some spring loaded suppport for those long heavy hoses, much like Transports have for air lines. In use in the field that is a lot of strain on the quick disconnect couplings. Get a quart of NH Red and some foam brushes for the future. Was this video before the thumb boo-boo?
You look very good in that blue iron.
You might think about moving the hitch on your rake lower, making the tongue sit higher. From the video it is very clear that the suspension arms on the front rake wheels are much more compressed than those on the rear of the rake. That will cause more pressure on the front wheel tines, premature wear and breakage.
In the manual is says to adjust the hitch so the main beam is level.
Mrs. don’t worry to much on the paints every machine is not perfect it met to be work on the ground and just get the hydraulic working so it doesn’t leak. Love your work.
New Holland puts out fairly decent farm implements. This one here in your video is actually pretty decent. Not extremely high maintenance. Which is nice and it does get the job done. The hydraulic issue might be due in part to that leak. Since this implement is new, It might be somewhat stiff. The paint issues, in my opinion though are inexcusable. Why? Because whomever QA this particular one must of been asleep. Generally speaking though, it is how it operates that count the most, but still, when one pays for something sold as new, it really ought be near perfect. Its up to the purchasing customer to put dings and dents in it as part of its use.
Honestly, the gathering of the hay by this really simple method is quite extraordinary. Cool video👍👍🇺🇸🚜
I agree :) Were it used I'd not have an issue with the dings, but being new, I'm paying for new so it should look new ;)
@@This1LifeWeLive Me too. Its hard enough having to budget your farming operation, that a dealer would sell you something that is sold as new, but clearly is not. Remember, a picture/ video is worth a thousand words.
In the final analysis though, if y'all are pleased with the implement and it works out great, that's a good thing.
I truly feel your pain....ouch😄🚜☀
Not to tell a person there business lol but wouldn't it be more efficient to take the center of the field first then hit the endrows then you wouldn't have to lift the rake at all? This is how we did it back in my hay farming days 😁
I make two rounds around the whole field then rake back and forth straight windrows from one side across to the other without lifting the rake and then once I am done I then make a third round around the whole field to clean up the ends.
@@ryanmcfarland5865 I make back and forth windrows first then three times around to clean up. I have an 8 wheel rake. I then bale the three times around then back and forth. Do you have a bigger rake?
I just rake around the fielf until it gets to small to turn then i just rake what i didnt get back up when its all baled and bale it
Ain't nothing but a thing! The only hurt that occurred was your feelings but you are an honest lady and felt better when you fessed up! :):):)
Replace the coupler on the hose or check the o rings in the coupler on the tractor. Both can cause the leak.
This is kind of funny, I bought the exact same rake that you have from a New Holland dealer here in Ohio 3 years ago. It is not made by New Holland unless New Holland bought Sitrex and it is model QR10. Mine had none of those scratches and dents on it and I've used it 3 years now I would say that's all dealer related from putting it together. I did make one modification, I split the side so I have four hoses hook to the back of my tractor one set works the right side and the center kicker wheel and the other set works the left side. That way I don't have to get out and switch those valves in the back when I need only one side. The only place I have it scuffed-up it's kind of in the same place you scuffed-up yours and that's from turning too tight and the wheels rubbed it, but it's an awesome rake.
The Manuel said that the valves are to be closed for transport. I have also closed the one for the kicker wheel to hold it up when racking 1St cutting hay. It will rack to much for our old baler to handle with both sides down.
you are correct, I do belive it was Sitrex and new holland simply painted it. It was the dealer than man handled it to death :)
Farm Girl you rock. you do you and i know ill keep enjoying the vids and im sure most your subscribers will as well.
Looks like new rake is functioning nicely....your yield shows that. As far as it goes, be reminded that farm equipment is mostly large pieces of machinery and in their assembled form are really hard to store inside a building. Most farmers including yourselves store your equipment outside due to lack of barn space or lack of barn. Rust and finish scratches can be solved with sand paper, elbow grease and a couple of rattle cans in the appropriate colors. I would hesitate blaming the rake for the hydraulic leak at the tractor end of the hose. If the fittings are mismatched it's the operators fault as those things are in his/her area to insure proper attachment before operating the equipment. Keep up the good work!
I got a hella deal on a new big tex gooseneck because of rubbed paint during transit from the manufacturer to seller.
Damage on tongue was from Jackknifing the tractor into it.
I suggest greasing the sq tube you first showed the paint scuffing.
3pt hitch arms left too low, live and learn. Touch it up with some paint. I've seen people rip Jack's off and twist hitches with the rear tires. It sucks that the rake was dinged up being new but it should be fine and be a reliable rake going fwd.
Yep. Ripped off the jack on my mower. Learned my lesson and take it off every time now.
Great looking rake , we know that you will take care of it
The hydraulic leak isn't causing the wings to go up uneven. The flow is split between cylinders on the rake and sometimes will go mostly to one side due to resistance. It's ok. You most likely need to change an o-ring in the tractors hydraulic outlet to fix the dripping.
Much of the bumps and bruises are simply from shipping. Sure the dealer could have touched it up but sometimes it gets missed. The scrapes on the jack came from unleval ground handling. Hydraulic leaks are common on new equipment these days since the fittings come from starving Chinese child labor. All in all it looks like it works quite well and a rake will typically last 30 or more years so it will still make a profit in about 3 year's. Keep up the good work kiddo.
We Always run around the feild 2-3 times depending on what feild were in then we just run back and forth till feild is raked . And we pickup the arms when we turn at the ends as well. Were using a Kuhn speed rake .and vermeer round baler
Up here in Colorada we use vermeer or john deere, hydraulic driven rakes. The ground driven ones just don't quite meet the standard. Hopefully it works out fer ya! Good Luck!!!
Once you get the rack figured out you will have whipped. To me it makes me wonder if they used it as a demo than sold to you as new that's my guess by seeing. Turned to short use to the other rack. Keep your the great videos
Usually over here they like to use the word ex-demo to make you think you're getting a big saving yet when you take off the usual 10% discount off there is very little difference though for the abuse that demo machines often get I would have said it was just stored outside, shunted around the factory's yard used chains and not on the tiedown points rather than connecting the chains to the tiedown and lifting points, using guards to protect the paint or using straps and then had been stored outside at the dealers and been shunted around their yard
Left arms to low
I tow mine on a toolbar on the lower Link's
I believe the paint damaged areas on the Rake-tongue are from the 3-Point draft-arms hitting it when you turned around. You apparent didn't lift-them-up because they are not required for the Rake. They happened to be right at the height of the Rake-tongue. My Edit....... After this comment, I continued the video, found I was right, and you were blaming Erik. The operators should always check the machine before using it.
it is for a adjustment bolt to help lock it in place
got to remember that rake is a tool not a rolls royce and they do get some rash from trans portation
Check the Pioneer tip (hydraulic coupler on the end of the hose) for damage or leaks-- heck it may just be loose! I've seen them drop down and drag on the road when the implement is moved behind a pickup or something and end up dinging or scraping the end of the coupler enough that it's ruined... might need to replace it. That's the first thing I'd check on there...
Later! OL J R :)
We found out this year that it's the trtactor. the bottom most hydraulic port leaks fluid and drains it all into the overflow catch :(
Gee while your getting your nails done, have them touch up your rake too........
I paused it at 15:49 looks like one of the arms on the 3 point hit it from turning to sharp.
I collect some old simplicity garden tractors from the 80"s and I clean and wax them so they look great. So I completely understand wanting things to stay nice. Its a lot of effort to maintain equipment and grease and change oil. So have stuff looking nice.
Does CZcams control what ads we see on your vlogs? I'm assuming you do not as the only one I see is FS propane! Like this one had it on four times! Who needs to see the same ad every vlog?
I agree that most the dings came from shipping tie downs, having been a trucker, getting the implement tied down was more important than protecting the paint, unless this was used as a demo unit!
Speaking of gashes! How is your thumb healing? Very possible to have permanent nerve damage !!!
Keep Farming Girl! Your learning the ropes!!
Nice shirt! :)
Huh . . . funny . . . looks alot like your photo! You stole my shirt!
I put rod and hoses behind jack. Down pressure on each wheel looks little heavy.im still learning mine. Lots of adjustments on it.
Aisku matau puikiai nusigrebe.Idomu ir kaip tu viska speji.Namuose irgi reikia ka nors pasidariti.Matau tikrai puikiai padarita.Tarkim as turiu taip pat darbu saltu uskandziu tik rite valgau.Reikia ka nors pasigaminti valandos bega.Matau nudazita ne kokibiskai.Taip aciu kad pasidalinai ❤👍👍👍🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
Reply to Brad not Landa
Rust can be hit with phosphoric acid, which turns the rust into a non corroding polymer sort of stable, black coating. Test to make sure you don't damage the paint. Maybe mask it off.
It's normal for equipment to rust if it sits out in the weather. That thing that you thought should have had a grease zerk in is a roll pin, which doesn't need grease because it doesn't move. If the Hydrualic hose is leaking, put a wrench on it and give it a turn.
Yep, roll pin. It's keeping the larger solid pin in place, the pin that the wing(s) pivot on.
That type rake clumps the hay. not an issue if the hay is dry but if it needs to dry a bit the clumps dry slowly, otherwise great I have one
Hydraulic line holders is what the threaded holes are for I think and the other is roll pins to hold in the hinge pins but I believe I would want the paint fixed too
If you want to get rid of the clumps in your windrows, you need to open the gap between the rake wheels at the back. This gives the hay more room to exit the rake. When you get into heavier hay it will give you more trouble.
If you had a hydraulic oil leak why wouldn't you stop and fix it. You most likely didn't have it hooked up correctly. That little white jug is NOT the hydraulic reserve. It's and over flow and please don't dump that back into the tractor.
They are definitely leaking we have hooked up other pieces of equipment and nothing in the jug. I think they just need some thread tape.
@@ruralridez6165 I don't know what you call them in the states, but here in the UK we use things called Bonded seals rather than thread tape. They're a metal washer with a rubber inner ring designed to seal against hydraulic pressure. 👍
Rural Ridez616 The jug is environmental crap to catch fluid when you disconnect from going on the ground, you always loose a smidge in the coupler when you disconnect.
How would I stop and fix it? This was only my second time using the tractor and the first time with the rake. I have no idea why it's leaking, none of our equipment has done this before and part of me questioned whether or not it was the tractor's fault. When Erik hooked up the disc a few days later, no leaks, but that same hayrake line had left a nice puddle on the ground after we unhooked it and it sat a few days. It's not a deal breaker on the rake, just frustrating. Either needs tape or a new coupler head. And no it's not the reserve. I sometimes mix up my words since most of them have only been learned in the last 3 years.
@@This1LifeWeLive How would you stop and fix it? Well you had the leak narrowed down to the hose on the new rake. Then you tighten or change the coupler so it doesn't leak. That's part of farming. It's not a good idea to spread Hydrualic oil over the field. If you didn't have a spare coupler in the shed and you wanted to get going, you could have borrowed one off another piece of equipment.
If that pain on the jack is an issue, try using vegetable oil or grease on it.
I concur, looks like three point hitch hitting, if you're happy with the job it does, that's all that matters, I've never been a fan of the wheel rake,but to each their own hope it serves you well, and you get lots of good use from it
For the amount of work you have to get done, between farm and household I'll give you a slide on the drivers pre trip inspection lecture. You just can't catch everything.
C est bien faudra le répare merci super vidéo magnifique
Ogden manufacturing makes a nice rake that I really like. It has the same suspension system on yours but the wheels push the hay instead of pulling the hay.
when you start to get a bit of volume from your pasture you will want to remove that centre wheel as it will just clog up.
most of the paint damage looks like damage from securing onto a trailer for transport. On the lower plates that is from the rake arms riding on the plates when lowered into raking position. Problem with paint repair is that the rake is coated with powder coat and not conventional paint. Any touch up will be obvious. I'm guessing Eric is a paint and body man or shop owner: with that in your family background you will be sensitive to paint appearance. Realistically paint is for corrosion control and nothing else. Slap on some NH red and move on.
Spot on Amos! I concur.
ya i reckon eric is pretty anal about touch-ups
i my self would not be happy with all that damage, it is from not caring on shipping, there is such things as shipping block, pads corners, welding in factories nothing left the yard that didnt have blocks and robber padding under the straps, if a part got damaged in the line, it was sent back to the powder coating room, a new item should never be touched up
@@arnoldromppai5395 - it was most likely a demo. I doubt it though. The rake tines are not worn enough. They may have replaced the fork wheels. I doubt that scenario, also. Other than the pads where wings settle down onto, most iif not all damage to the coating was caused from tie-downs during transportation from here to there. I am sure New Holland didn't ship it out from the factory with these defects in the topcoat.
it would not be that heavy rust from shipping to her area from another dealer, that fast, if it was a demo, it is sold at a discount as a demo, i never heard wtfg say it was a demo, i would be down there backs, better yet was not to take it but it was needed now, so sort it out later under its warranty, powder coating by most mfg is covered for 5 years here
An the leaking may be a bad seal crimp on the pioneer fitting I'd not think it would have bad hoses.
I wonder if someone purchased it used it and returned it hence the touch up paint and rust, you did mention it was the last one in the state that was available
Lot better windrows. Hard to make good rows with little hay to rake. Need to try raking with the kicker up. Think you will find is does a finer job without it. Use the kicker when you have to pick "flat" hay up. We always run ours in float, seems New Holland says you don't have to. We run KUHN rakes.
On your turns pick it up just enough to slightly drag the rear tines and you will be golden. As long as your not dragging them in the dirt the wheels can take it. The way we run ours is start on the longest straight run like up against a fence and run back and forth. Then around the field three times. On really crooked field start the longest run in the middle and work out.
On the paint have them give you a can of spray paint. Wire brush the spots and spray. If you leave it out in the weather spray the hoses to prevent UV damage.
Well you did show in past video your mishaps in backing up, a camera like on the horse trailer would help in future
Erik did say it had to come from another one of their dealership locations and some of those spots where they touched it up on the paint could be where they had a strap or chain to secure the arms to transport it on a trailer
I think you should wash the rake. PS. Pretty much everyone has rammed the hitch arms into something before. Some people do it more than once !! ha ha. Experience -- the ability to instantly recognize a mistake when you make it again. Got that from the cattle forum..
Great job WTF farm girl keep up the good work 👍🤠🧛♀️
Couple little tricks to help with raking
First one go back and forth first If a guy needs four swaths to turn while balling and yer rake merges two leave four swaths start going back and forth than do yer outside rows last and that’ll clean up those ends up perfectly
The other thing I’ve found especially when you get into the lighter swaths rake with the dews. Either before nine or after sun down the crop will hold together better and a rake like yours will nearly pick up every last leaf.
You’ll find when your balling that’s where you’ll really save the leaves just because you’re swath holds together real well and you’ll lose less of it to the baler pick up beating the hell out of it.
I dunno if that’s helpful for something you’ve allready figured out
You optioned up for the New Holland brand new rust package!
Your new rake is like any other Farm machine. The paint is only pretty and unscratched for a couple of times of field use. The scratches are mostly from normal use, articulation and first assembly at the dealer.... its not a Car or Truck. Rust will not affect it function. Also, those holes where you thought a grease fitting should be is where a roll-pin was inserted to hold the collar onto the shaft.
For crying out loud its farm equipment. Its gonna get dinged up.
You should of not bought it if your going to pick it to death.
Agree
That might be true, but how many people, buying any type of equipment, really conduct an in depth visual inspection of that equipment when the sales staff are telling you its brand spanking new? It's customary too expect dealers to sell new equipment as new. Not used new. Unless advertised before hand and clearly posted on the sales paperwork. I think she made some valid points and obviously they have a budget.
100% Eric's fault but he knows how to touch up paint. Haha.
Ready the manual now that you used it and see if it is adjusted right, ground speed, etc.
Thumb looks good! It held the camera steady too.
Nice shirt, did ya get it when you were there?
Paint chips? That's normal shipping damage. That "bad" leak is one of 2 things 1 loose-fitting 2 ding in the quick disconnect coupler. The main thing with farm equipment is how it operates in the field. Farming is not a beauty contest.
Go ask your dealer for a rattle can of paint to touch up with. I agree if you want it to last maintain it!
Looks like the 3 point arms hit it when you turned. Just a guess.
I haul New Holland and John Deere equipment. Most often it is chained down to the trailer. We cut old 4 inch tie down straps into lengths long enough to put between the chain and the new piece of equipment to prevent chipping or peeling the paint. Once in awhile, you may get a rub mark, but no destroyed paint.
Happy Trails
MB BAR RANCH
You so gorgeous with her hair down but you're gorgeous with no hair up to you just gorgeous all around the husband and the kids is so should be so glad to have you you so amazing I wish a lot of girls these days was like you the world would be a better place to live amen
There's a guy in South Eastern Idaho who only rents his equipment. I worked around 300 acres for a guy who worked another job. I worked for him around 10 years plowing, discing and planting both Hay and Wheat. All his equipment was used I think. John Deere as far as Tractors go with a small Massy. I don't know how that scratch got there.
Drow bar ,three point hitch , in turning !
Turning with the lift arms up:) , or down in your case:)
Most of it doesn't quite possible shipping damage but I would also be concerned that it's not completely brand new.
well you know you are supposed to raise the lift arms on the 3 point when using the draw bar. Sharp tight turns and lowered lift arms will leave a nice oopps like that.
I know it's not my business to ask, but am just curious did you guys bought it from a re use place where they sale re use equipment! Or did you guys had them older you one form the company?! Cuz sorry to say which I'm not trying to sound wude? Like don't take my word for it, what am ganna say but inerways, I don't think that's a brand new rake? But idk that's my opinion. But there again it also depends on where you get them equipments.
What should I plane on land that has not been used in years
Just over grown with grass and midwestern trees
I don't know, but I'm sure there is someone on here who could tell you :) We will be doing that too in a few years
Probably pulled it of the Wyatt Indiana store, burnips had a bunch of those down here from previous owner.
That’s a perfect example of you thinking things are ready to go because someone else hooked it up you always have the check for yourself to make sure it’s ready to go you cannot assume and you’ve use that word quite a few times you assume someone else is done it and that bite you in the rear!!’
I enjoy your videos and I get a chuckle out of some of the things that happen to you all on the farm farming is a very stressful way of life I can see
No offense, if you have a problem with this why did you accept it??? Stop complaining.
Your arms for the three point linkage hit it when you was turning around
You obviously don't have much experience buying new equipment and how long paint last and it looks brand new. All the things you point out common with demo units.
They have a lot to learn about farming in general. It's fun to watch.
@@gonerydin4225 more like entertaining.
Jeff looking down through the comments it seems your comments are all condescending and assholeish.
@@jrice1091 I would say more like honest and true under the circumstances and based on the thumbs up on most of them.
except for the fact that she is new to farming and these videos are simply her novice opinions and viewpoints and her learning experiences. you're a condescending douche testicle....p.s my comment was for the sole purpose of saying douche testicle....
I was waiting for the video to show it wrapped around a tree.
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Hiya.. Hey look at the rakes tongue.. On the LEFT side you see that 'tube' with a hole in it.. You can move your jack TO that and mount it.. that's what it is for. Why it is mounted currently like it is, I have no idea.. but that piece welded to the left side of the hitch arm/tongue is so you can mount it there as well... *UPDATE LOL later in the video I see you figured it out already!
If you mount the jack on the side the tire will hit it on a sharp turn
Actually not if you have it turned the right way.. not to mention, watch the video.. you can see they already moved it before I posted.. Might want to watch the video before commenting.
Its On top for storage while rake is in use the one on the side is for parking dumbass the pin holes are only drilled one way on each holder
Nice of you to just troll in and start calling people names, asshat. Next time, why don't you offer your suggestion without the name calling.. Not everyone knows every little detail for every little thing.. so shut your piehole unless you have constructive comments vs just insults to throw around.
Well you must be blind as a damned bat if you cant see the facts in the video your the Jackass Flaming Suz for improper jack postion when you dont know a damned thing about it so Shut the hell up
yes i agree with you. the money you spend on things the paint should be power coated and there should not be had leaks.
Sounds like a lot of transmission noise inside that cab. My 60's era 240 Farmall in 3rd isn't that loud.
you jack knifed it and the 3point arms hit it
That's a paint scratch. Not damage. My guess is operator error and something to do with the tractor 3 point being left to low, since it's on both sides.