A Refresher Course in Air Layering Spring
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- This video is a refresher in how to air layer successfully.
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I love that you are teaching others and allowing Josh to take the lead and giving him credit :) I also like Josh's tattoos!
A good teacher should expect his or her student to be better than the teacher.
I like Josh personality and his work.
Josh made that look easy 😮...🌿🙏
It's a pleasure to greet you Mr. Peter I watch all your videos since you uploaded your first videos I think I've seen most of them, I really enjoy what you do with maples palmatum when you show us how to thicken the trunk I would really like it no matter how repetitive it is I would continue doing them, because you learn from each one of them, being that they are different, I thank you very much for uploading these videos. God bless you.
Thank you for your kind feedback Gerson.
100% success?? That's art!! Surreal..
It has been an honor learning from you. Thank you sir.
🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹 thanks Peter, thanks Josh
Great job Josh👍🏻 Looking forward to seeing the successful outcomes 👩🏻🌾🪴
I cant wait til Spring as it Autumn here in Melbourne Australia. I have makings ready to go. Thanks again
Thankyou Peter and Josh , nice to watch air layering again , i have 5 air layerings on my maples at the moment which i did end of april so fingers crossed.
Thanks guys. I plan to do my first round of air layering this spring. This weekend, in fact. Keep on keeping on. 💪🏼💚👍🏼
Very good, love the video. A win win.
Thx for sharing Peter 👍
Fantastic work Josh. I wish I could have the same experience, but as yet sadly not. Don’t really know what I am doing wrong. Years ago I had a very big rubber plant, I was able to air layer that with no difficulty just using ordinary moss from the garden and everyone worked..
cant wait to see the results.
Wow Josh! Great job.
I have a disectum maple with two crossing trunks I really want to try and air layer one trunk this video has made me "bite the bullet" as Peter says 👍🏼
Just beautiful!!!! Thank you 😊
Great job, Josh!
I have just today air layered a Shiraz maple. Hopefully I will have a good an outcome as Josh will have with his. A great video.
I learn how to airlie by watching mr. Peter
It's like xmass $$$ in the bank 🏅🏅🏅Ernie smith from brisbane Australia
_THANK YOU_ 🙏 😔 🙏
Dr. Chan, this was a great review.
The "new tree" that you created is amazing. Your yeild on this plant is great. Can you keep "the Spagnum ball" too wet? We are having much wetter weather here than we have in about a couple of decades, the drouth ended and the wet season just appeared.
Josh you make this look really easy. 🙏👌🙏
You guys have been extremely busy this spring.
🙏 🖖 🙏 😔 🙏
If your plastic bag is tied tightly water cannot get in or out,
Thanks Team
Thanks! I was wondering what this air layering was that you have been mentioning.
The tree we air layered was a Deshojo Maple
Great video, per usual!
Thank you Peter and Josh for the thorough explanation as per usual. I have a question; is it possible to preform two airlayerings on the same long branch at the same time. Or should I air layer from the top down so to speak. Thank you again, Marc.
I've wondered the exact same thing myself!!!
I haven't seen any videos on that yet, so I suppose we must experiment ourselves.
You can but the upper air layer may be weak. Best not to do that.
Thank you!
👍👌👌🙂🙂
😊👍
TQ Josh, nice beard btw!
That sphagnum moss looks bone dry. I always thought you had to moisten it before applying it?
Shouldn't be too wet. So long as it is damp - it will work.
Years ago i had watched an air layer video on Maples from you and got scared ao i tried it on the established bottle brush...had no sphagnum moss so used clay....success first air layer attempted ever. Have a maple currently wrapped doing good on top and bottom, but i didnt use clear wrap this time so i dont know if it rooted or healed, only time will tell
Will the moisture trapped in the moss be enough? Do we need to open the bag to moisten it midway before the new roots emerge?
Need to know that aswell!! ;)
I've just used a hypodermic syringe with water to injection the pod
If it's air tight, it should hold the moisture. However, the injection method works well. I've also seen people leave an opening to periodically water it.
NO need to - so long as the moss is damp to begin with and the plastic bag tied tight, no moisture will escape.
@@t3dwards13 No need for injection and all that.
please🙇 Mr Chan, after doing the air layering, how many times do you need to fertilize the main tree until the roots appear?
No need to fertilise the main tree. It has its own energy
@@peterchan3100 thank you🙇 very much
What is the theory on timing? Can you air layer earlier, say in March just so you can get them in place earlier?
can you please explain why the air layering is done at all the junctions, must it be at the junctions I thought it could be done anywhere on the trunk ?
So you'll get 2 trunks trees,
or will you cut the air layer in half to get 2 trees from one air layering ?
What i believe happens is instead of just cutting the long branches to make a bonsai with the original tree and discard the branches, you airlayer to create routes where you would just cut them off. That branch, now with roots, will become its own bonsai and once all twelve have been cut off with roots to make twelve new potential bonsais with already reasonably thick trunks. You can then continue to ramify the original tree but you'll also have twelves clones of it.
Anybody know where to find good quality wisteria seeds or Japanese maple seeds in Yorkshire or online
Here is a method improvement. If you already know you will air layer a tree, shape the top part while it is still flexible and then airlayer. You will now have the shape ready to go, instead of waiting.
Is deshojo good to be out in the sun?
I did nto see any water added to the moss or the bag after one side was done. How does it acquire humidity?
Only 6 months till they root 😊
Sometimes as little as three months at our nursery in the UK
Does this work on Azalea? I have some big evergreen azaleas which would look great as bonsai
how wet/moist is the sphagnum moss when you put it on?
What rooting hormone did you use?
Any make is OK. Just check the label, so long as it says it contains 'IBA' that will be OK.
@@peterchan3100 ok thanks Peter
What is the powder?
Are you not able to grow sphagnum moss at your nursery?
Yes we do - in fact I am going to show it in one of my future videos. Sphagnum moss grows around our pond.
@@peterchan3100 is the Spagnum from New Zealand and your Spagnum the _exact same_ plant? Second, what are the _scientific name_ for these plants? Everything I am finding refers to "Peet moss" which is not a plant.
@@walterwjr947. The genus Sphagnum has almost 400 species found around the world. New Zealand happens to grow some of the highest quality sphagnum in the world, Chile does as well and same with here in Canada. All different species and different qualities as far as horticultural uses go but NZ sphagnum is the best. Peat moss is simply decomposed sphagnum moss.
Interesting. However, if you watch closely (it's not easy to see), you can see that the bark is not peeled off completely up to the core, the hard wood so to speak. That, by the way, is more or less lightly yellow. If you would remove the bark completely up to the hard wood, the branch with leafs would probably wither immediately because you would cut off all the transportation of moist and nutricions right away. In my personal experience, during removing the bark you should stay in the "white area", so you should peel off only part of the bark and not all of it. The branch and leafs then will grow further but will try to get some additional moist and nutricion by additional rooting (in the sphagnum), also because it is disturbed a little by peeling off a thin layer of bark. That is, by the way, the main reason why your knife should be quite sharp...! Well, this is my personal experience. Perhaps I'm wrong but my way seems to work... By the way, mr Chan pointed that out in earlier videos if I remember well...
The supply of water and minerals up the branch runs in the wood, it's the flow of nutrients down from the foliage that we interrupt by removing the bark.
@@andreasweber1533 Thanks! However, I once gave it a try with a branch that was too thick (and ugly). I removed the bark up to the hard wood for about 5 centimeters. The remaining (upper) part (with twigs and leafs) withered within just a few days. It was indeed a Japanese Maple.
Well, just peeling off the bark (without covering the section up as you'd do for an air layer) likely let the wood underneath dry out, blocking water supply for the branch. I've air layered European yew that was thicker than my wrist, took well over a year (yew is sloooow) but is very much alive. And that was cut to the glossy, hard wood.
@@andreasweber1533 I find that very interesting and I must admitt that I seems that I have mixed information. I know European Yew is very slow. At the end, the method I described worked out for me quite well these days and the past years. But obviously I could have cut deeper in the bark it seems. Again: thank you for your expertise.
You are absolutely right.
am the 1st :D WOOOHOOOOO :D
If Josh is the master at air layering why doesn’t he let Josh talk and tell us what he is doing
I keep running into the problem of my sphagnum drying out
You need to tie the bag tight so that moisture does not escape.