@@thebeerjunkies1 Another great video, cheers. I have been wet conditioning my grain pre-milling, helps maintain intact husk great for the lautering and grain bed recirculation.
Nice! I would love to try conditioning my grains. Have you noticed better efficiency and quicker conversion times compared to dry grist? And do you condition yours by steeping?
@@thebeerjunkies1 I brew with a single system, Brewzilla 35 and 65, I find that the husk is out of the way and the wort can get to the starches better. I use a spray bottle and moisten to 2% approx, 2-3 Oz per 5 gal batch.I get 75% mash efficiency on the system.
This is a great video. There is so much info around on how to do a mash….heat the water to X degrees and add and stir the grain etc etc… but very little info on WHY temperatures and all other detail are so important. Thank you for offering the theory behind the practice. It is very helpful. I am from Australia and my only criticism from such an informative video is Fahrenheit is so foreign to so many of us who aren’t in the USA. Please don’t take offence as I am sure any of us who need to convert the temps will replay and note down and convert the F readings to C readings. Thank you for the information. Love all your videos and bring on more including brewing theory.
Thank you! I am sorry you are absolutely correct, this afternoon I will add all of the temperatures and their conversions into the description of this video. I will respond in this thread once I’m done!
@@thebeerjunkies1 thank you for that. It is a strange world we live in where within some areas we just cannot come to a standard. When I grew up in Aus the temperatures were in Fahrenheit and then one day the elected government changes it all on us including our money, distance and everything else. The one I just can’t get used to as a tradie was the torque settings and pressure settings. It is still foot/ lbs and PSI to me..😃
The temperatures are all added in the bottom of the video description! I agree, I wish everything was consistent. I am very familiar with metric since it is what I used in school, but I am so used to dealing with imperial here that sometimes I forget. From now on I will try to remember to include the metric measurements in the videos along with imperial.
Extremely important video right here! Thanks for posting this. I wish I could re-circulate my mash, but a single pot on the stovetop is all I can do right now. I always struggle with pH too....I'll try to bump up my calcium level to 100 ppm, and see what difference I get.
If you would like to, send me an email at brady@thebeerjunkies.com and we can try to work through some things to get that pH and water profile under control!
A lot of great info, thank you! The last few brews I did ( all from same 55# two row bag) showed a big drop in my efficiency.I am blaming the grain itself as I have not changed my process or mill grind at all.
A drop in efficiency is always so frustrating! If you haven't already, I would double check the mill gap width. I noticed a significant drop in one of my mashes a couple of months ago, and when I checked my mill the gap had somehow doubled!
Great video, a ton of useful info to digest! What are your thoughts on shortening mash times from 60 minutes if your target gravity reading is reached sooner. Are there benefits to keeping a 60 minute mash?
Thank you! You don’t necessarily have to do a full 60 minutes, once conversion is finished you can begin mash out. You can use the Iodine Test to ensure that you have completely finished conversion by adding a couple of drops of iodine to a small sample of wort. If conversion is not complete, it will turn dark blue or black. If it is complete, it will be either clear or a shade that is very similar to the color of the wort.
thank your for sharing knowledge.
Great video I’m an average homebrewer learned a lot from this. Thanks 🍻🍻
Kudos to the grist hydrator 🙌 for whom without, max efficiency would not be achieved
That’s right! My secret weapon
@@thebeerjunkies1 Another great video, cheers. I have been wet conditioning my grain pre-milling, helps maintain intact husk great for the lautering and grain bed recirculation.
Nice! I would love to try conditioning my grains. Have you noticed better efficiency and quicker conversion times compared to dry grist? And do you condition yours by steeping?
@@thebeerjunkies1 I brew with a single system, Brewzilla 35 and 65, I find that the husk is out of the way and the wort can get to the starches better. I use a spray bottle and moisten to 2% approx, 2-3 Oz per 5 gal batch.I get 75% mash efficiency on the system.
Thank you for the deep dive into the mash! Great info here
This is a great video. There is so much info around on how to do a mash….heat the water to X degrees and add and stir the grain etc etc… but very little info on WHY temperatures and all other detail are so important. Thank you for offering the theory behind the practice. It is very helpful.
I am from Australia and my only criticism from such an informative video is Fahrenheit is so foreign to so many of us who aren’t in the USA. Please don’t take offence as I am sure any of us who need to convert the temps will replay and note down and convert the F readings to C readings.
Thank you for the information. Love all your videos and bring on more including brewing theory.
Thank you! I am sorry you are absolutely correct, this afternoon I will add all of the temperatures and their conversions into the description of this video. I will respond in this thread once I’m done!
@@thebeerjunkies1 thank you for that. It is a strange world we live in where within some areas we just cannot come to a standard. When I grew up in Aus the temperatures were in Fahrenheit and then one day the elected government changes it all on us including our money, distance and everything else. The one I just can’t get used to as a tradie was the torque settings and pressure settings. It is still foot/ lbs and PSI to me..😃
The temperatures are all added in the bottom of the video description! I agree, I wish everything was consistent. I am very familiar with metric since it is what I used in school, but I am so used to dealing with imperial here that sometimes I forget. From now on I will try to remember to include the metric measurements in the videos along with imperial.
@@thebeerjunkies1 ♥️
This was an awesome overview
Extremely important video right here! Thanks for posting this. I wish I could re-circulate my mash, but a single pot on the stovetop is all I can do right now. I always struggle with pH too....I'll try to bump up my calcium level to 100 ppm, and see what difference I get.
If you would like to, send me an email at brady@thebeerjunkies.com and we can try to work through some things to get that pH and water profile under control!
A lot of great info, thank you!
The last few brews I did ( all from same 55# two row bag) showed a big drop in my efficiency.I am blaming the grain itself as I have not changed my process or mill grind at all.
A drop in efficiency is always so frustrating! If you haven't already, I would double check the mill gap width. I noticed a significant drop in one of my mashes a couple of months ago, and when I checked my mill the gap had somehow doubled!
Great video, a ton of useful info to digest! What are your thoughts on shortening mash times from 60 minutes if your target gravity reading is reached sooner. Are there benefits to keeping a 60 minute mash?
Thank you! You don’t necessarily have to do a full 60 minutes, once conversion is finished you can begin mash out. You can use the Iodine Test to ensure that you have completely finished conversion by adding a couple of drops of iodine to a small sample of wort. If conversion is not complete, it will turn dark blue or black. If it is complete, it will be either clear or a shade that is very similar to the color of the wort.
This was AWESOME 👏👏👏